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First off, I think your boy looks amazing. The color transitions are great. I *can* see how he looks more pastel than albino, though, and my suggestion is to use some reference pictures of albino lizards. (Crocs and gators work too, but they tend to be EXTREMELY white with very little pink. But here's a neat exception: https://www.shutterstock.com/image-photo/albino-alligator-141056980?src=orTGcGSW162oTw_E2eF_yw-1-0 )
If your pink is kept more toward the recesses near the center of the body, and not on the more raised areas - which I think is something you could enact on the non-belly scales - that would be a fast way to get you looking closer to albino. (Especially if you combine that with lightening the darkest pinks around the head. It's a beautiful color, but I think it gets too dark for this particular project.)
I'll start.
I think the most important tool you can get is proper lighting. You won't realize how much stress you're putting on your eyes until you paint in good lighting.
My recommendation is to pick up some standard Daylight LED bulbs and use a desk lamp. If you have space get a warmer color temp led bulb as well, so you have cool and warm color ranges.
If you want an all in one solution. I use the Lightblade 1500S as well. I got this so I'd have a portable light when I wanted to travel and paint. And it works great. It has a setting that uses both warm and cool color temp LEDs. But you do need to be under it, which can feel restrictive at times.
This is a fun little thing. If you guys want more stuff like this check out:
https://color.adobe.com/create/color-wheel/
I use it alllllll the time.
Any long dragon would be sweet. If she's able to do smaller minis, WizKids has a pretty neat unicorn that tends to look good in Technicolor.
More off-the-wall suggestion: this Fire Giant has a big flat sword and a long cape that would be easy to blend colors on. I'm planning on making mine pretty conventional with metallics, but I'm sure it would look crazy in pastels!
I used some loctite stik'n seal, then stuck a tooth pick in the tube and got a little glob of the adhesive out.
Then just a matter of touching from tooth to tooth.
It's very forgiving and easy to do
I normally have a color in mind that I'd really like to use on the miniature or in scene. With that color in mind, say a warm purple, I'll think about colors that set the mood, tone, etc. Normally I like to contrast colors between warms and cools. So if I have that purple as a main color for clothing, I might choose a cooler skin tone, something with a little more yellow to contrast the purple. When I first started painting and thinking about colors, I used a fancier color wheel like this one- Fancy Color Wheel I still enjoy thinking about colors with this.
The other thing I would recommend is find things, art, painted minis, nature that inspires you and use color schemes from there. I have a folder dedicated to things like OSL, skin tones, and art I really enjoy for reference.
Hope this answers the question!
Everyone's suggestions so far have been spot on, and I agree with all of them.
I've seen it discussed here and there a few times over the last 6 months, but if I could offer up a luxury purchase, I would say an off-the-shelf paint mixer. Specifically, the Mini-Vortex Mixer (Amazon link). Yes it often hovers somewhere between $70 and $100, but for someone who's chosen to complete the entire Scale75 ScaleColor line, it helps enormously with getting those bottles mixed in way less time and with way less effort. And it's useful for any other paint brand of course, but for sure it makes short work of Scale75 paints. Again, it's by no means necessary and there are cheaper homebrew methods, but I'd still recommend it as perhaps a splurge item.
As for something more affordable but no less useful, I don't think I've seen anyone mention one of those "self-healing" cutting mats yet (Amazon link). They're affordable, come in a host of sizes, and are portable enough that you can easily move them around if needed, or just keep it on your desk as a general surface. They work great to do just about any task related to the hobby over - highly recommended!
I did the same thing but bought nail polish racks from Amazon. They're perfect for paints and can be nailed into the wall very easily!
Puluz photography Light Box. I bought it on a Norwegian web store but here it is on Amazon The lights come with usb cables but you have to get some chargers or like me use a portable battery
My hobby setup is in the basement, with no windows that open. I have an airbrush booth that I put a second HEPA filter on at the end of the exhaust tube provided. I also wear a respirator with vapor cartridges.
I believe it's this one: https://www.amazon.com/LabGenius-Mini-Vortex-Mixer/dp/B01CLLBZ6S?th=1
​
I had heard about vortex mixers for test tubes, and asked my doctor in law if she could find some cheaper than what I was seeing. Just unwrapped this from her, and I swear, I wasn't fishing for gifts!
Sure! My saving grace has been a portable workstation like this.
I don’t have a basement or man cave to set up permanently so a station like this means I can paint on the couch watching tv with the wife.
I also have a pair of magnifying glasses like these because I’m old. As long as you pad the nose piece they’re comfortable for up to an hour.
The paints are mostly Citadel layers and washes. I’m not brave enough for NMM yet. I painted the pieces of the model pre-assembly to keep the lines clean.
This one I picked up at the Ghibli Museum in Tokyo, but it looks like it's also available on amazon as well as a few other variations as well!
Thank you!
Here are the trees: Hatisan 30 Pieces Model Trees 5cm - 8.5cm Mixed Model Tree Train Scenery Architecture Trees Fake Trees for DIY Crafts, Building Model, Scenery Landscape Natural Green https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TLBL9SY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rQlbEbBQM5H2R
And the grass: Gamers Grass - Mixed Flower Set (GGSET-MF) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N65WBK9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UQlbEbM40N6FZ
Whatever the question is use Vallejo putty to fill the gaps in, you can use green stuff or liquid green stuff but I don't think it holds much to the vallejo brand.
Really the only thing I would state in general is improving the quality of the pictures. It's difficult to judge mini's when the picture of them is too far away, or blurry due to lighting. I highly recommend looking at the sidebar's photo tutorial to improve reception of your miniatures. Myself, I am getting a small lightbox to aid in photography. Not to mention it makes your mini's look better if you have a professional (or at the very least) clean looking background.
YES!
Buy this. It will change your life.
no its not. its a simple painting lamp from amazon.
this one: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B086VHPYLS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Finally, 20 years later the mini companies have picked up on it.
Sable, is a bit of a misnomer now. They throw the word around at anything that is a natural hair brush. The kind of brush you're looking for is a "Kolinsky" type of sable. It comes from these cute little guys. Also commonly called a "Red Sable" The only problem with this term is it's disingenuous. You want to know you're paying for 100% kolinsky sable and not a mix, if you're buying a quality (read: expensive) brush.
Mini painting likes water color kolinsky brushes since they have a big belly and lots of spring. If you've never used brushes like this before you will need to get into good cleaning habits with these if you want to keep them in good condition.
The price point for reaper brushes is too high for me to recommend for first kolinsky brushes. Windsor & Newton have a small set of the series 7 brushes that I've seen in a few hobby and craft stores. I can't find the set on amazon to link you, only to the larger brush sizes. I recommend going with them or something similar to start you off. (expect to pay in the range of 20-25 for about 3~5 brushes.) along with a bottle of Pink soap. To get you in the habit of cleaning those kind of brushes so you get the life out of an expensive brush.
If you take my advice and go for that start, you'll know exactly what you want out of a better brush and if you need the more expensive ones for your painting style when the time comes to replace any of them.
I'm not sure this is exactly what you're talking about, but it's similar. It's called a Jeweler's universal holder or vise. I use it to hold figures ranging from 28mm scale to 90mm scale. For ones with the bar beneath their feet, this can easily clamp on. For many of the larger figures, I place pins in the feet (which will later go into their base) and clamp on to that. The handle is convenient for holding the figure while painting. It's a bit of overkill for a standard 28mm human figure, but good for monsters and larger creatures and certainly for large scale figures. You can also place the pins in the device and clamp directly onto the base (though that may not be quite as secure). Easy enough to find on amazon. Here are a couple links:
Looks like polished steel rather than stainless, a clue is that you can pick them up with a magnet. Many types of stainless are nonmagnetic. color is also a bit off, but that may just be the white balance of the picture.
Amazon will sell you 100 BB sized 420 stainless ball bearings for about $8. That should be plenty to last for a good long while.
I also have a suggestion on agitating the paint - use a reciprocating saw. File the points off an old blade and rubberband the paint pot to it. 20 seconds of that should be plenty to agitate any paint pot you own that isn't totally dry.
I've started using this one. Really like how light weight it is. But I would still use a separate lighting solution, since the LED on this isn't great for painting. https://www.amazon.com/Beileshi-Magnifier-Professional-Interchangeable-Magnifying/dp/B00KAU5FSC/ref=sr\_1\_27?crid=GHQAQA9UH0PF&dchild=1&keywords=head+magnifying+glass+with+light&qid=1621618838&sprefix=head+magni%2Caps%2C205&sr...
No airbrush 0/10 setup. :P
But I do see you have a discerning taste in reaper miniatures. I just painted of those guys myself.
One thing I would recommend strongly though is a good brush. I actually have that same set of brushes from hobby lobby and they are kinda garbage. Do yourself a favor and get a Windsor and Newton series 7 size #1. You can get one on amazon for about $13 link. It will be a world of difference.
Another good purchase is a wet palette, but far from necessary. Just keeps the paint from drying out too fast and wasting it. You can also make your own pretty easily if you are inclined. Oh, and a hobby knife like others said. Reapers have some pretty heavy mold lines, and you'll definitely need something to take care of those.
I went on Amazon and searched "fingernail polish rack".
The one I bought was a wall mounted rack I put above my desk. It holds like 100 paints and I think I spent $20 on the rack. And if I needed to I could move the rack over on the wall and mount two side by side.
But when you search for nail polish racks on Amazon you'll get desk mounted and wall mounted results.
Edit: Link the one I have.
That's an awesome tip about the curved plastic. Thank you for posting that tip. Here's a link to the minis on Amazon. On mobile over here, pardon the crappy format.
Honestly I wouldn't worry about getting a proper setup like some of the ones people suggest if you're not big into painting. I bought a really basic one from Amazon to paint some gw stuff (I'm quite into painting) and sure it's not perfect and every now and then I have to push through any blockages but it was so cheap I don't mind! I think it was this one https://www.amazon.com/ABEST-action-airbrush-compressor-Complete/dp/B00J91EUG6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=abest+airbrush&qid=1562268527&s=gateway&sprefix=abest+air&sr=8-1
Nice. I use these foam grippers https://www.amazon.com/6-Pack-Foam-Grip-Tubing-Latex-Free/dp/B06XTLQ95N
They are really big and easy to grip. I hold a scapel and forceps for my job and use the foam grippers there too. They have been both a work life and hobby life saver.
> still have trouble pulling off colours that I think should match in theory
There's an app for that. I don't use it much, but it did help me find a nice compliment for the jade green I chose for the lizardmen I mentioned elsewhere in this thread.
Most 8 year olds won't have the patience for drying times, using small amounts of paint, etc. etc. and probably won't have the motor skills to do much with a mini (source: worked at pottery/canvas painting studio with kids of all ages for 3 years; kids at that age sometimes still struggle with adding eye dots to a statue that's 4" tall. I had to watch parents have their overly-high expectations shattered by their children over and over, and it was very sad for the kids who just wanted to have fun vs. the parents who wanted them to do a "good job" on their figurines).
I think you'd be better off starting with larger objects, like the ones you can find in kits aimed at kids. Example. If she really likes that then she can move on to minis when she's older or clearly interested. Regular canvas painting is also helpful to learn about layering paints, mixing colors, drying times, etc. too. Heck, even fantasy-themed coloring books might ignite an interest since coming up with outfit/armor color schemes is one of the most fun parts of mini painting for many people. She might also like making her own little pieces using oven-bake clay. Actual miniatures are just not age-appropriate unless she's a really unusual kid.
Any chance you could make a slightly-more-public list like that on Trello or the like? I've seen several tech companies do public Trello boards where users and submit and vote on suggestions.
Edit: Found one, the game dev Stress Level Zero keeps a very open Trello page with a ton of info about what they're working on.
Thought I'd share this here as well.I'm happy with how the paint job came out, just needs a few touchups and I think we'll be good!
Tiamat, 3d printed by /u/mz4250 and painted by my wife with acrylic paint.
We're running Tyranny of Dragons, currently still in HotDQ and wanted to have Her Avaraciousness staring over us while we play.
Downloadable at: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:606153
They just finished a Kickstarter for a game called MERCS Recon, which uses the same models for a board game and the minis are in plastic. If you wait about a year for the Kickstarter to release, you should be able to get them in plastic.
If you want to do the work to photograph your colors and pull the hex code, there's Adobe's palette tool.
​
I don't think that a tool like that would be as useful as you think it might be though. Miniature paints tend to be multi-pigment mixes and they don't always do exactly what you'd expect the way that single pigment (artists paints) do. And honestly, I've never once found a color wheel to be a useful tool, they're just missing too much information. You're almost always going to be working with colors that are tints and shades that are "off" your wheel and they're going to goober things up because adding black and white isn't accounted for on most color wheels.
As much as I'm shitting on color wheels, that palette tool is really cool though, especially if you don't have a great eye for colors and you need help sorting out what goes with what.
These are great. Also, if you don’t have one, get a mini holder, so you can prop your elbows on the table and hold the mini up closer to your face.
This is the desk. Purchased from Amazon:https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Adjustable-Industrial-Bookshelf-Workstation/dp/B08CSHLYY6?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1
amazon.com/Steamforged-Dark-Souls-Phantoms-Expansion/dp/B07YC7TP5K/ref=sr_1_1?crid=YF3ID4JM1JHA&dchild=1&keywords=dark+souls+phantoms+expansion&qid=1624055069&sprefix=darksouls+phan%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-1 Hes one of several minis that come in the Darksouls Board game Phantoms expansion
If the primer strips off, then I would reprime it because primer helps your paint stick. Some primers are exceptionally difficult to remove so if you strip the paint off, but the primer stays, it's probably fine to just paint over again.
If you are in the US, the Rune Wars core set is a great value for practice models with 48 models for $35 of a variety of types and sizes, if you get tired of stripping and repainting the same thing. 48 models painted one by one will get you plenty of experience.
I’d suggest using some syringes. They make transferring from pots to droppers so damned easy.
These are what I use. Not affiliated with the seller in any way.
BSTEAN 10ml Syringes 14Ga 1.5 Inch Blunt Tip Needle Storage Caps - Glue Applicator, Oil Dispensing (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N562BFP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_HAHQTGXAZETEBYFWV57N?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I believe it was 6ft x 1/2in aluminum metal flat bar, I picked it up at my local hardware store for like $8 each. Used a vise to bend the ends to 90 degree angles and drilled holes for screws. Drilled a hole in the center of both bars and put a bolt and nut to hold it together in the middle. Got the LEDs from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008GYTVSY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Maximum bang for buck would be an Army Painter Mega Set. You can achieve basically anything with this selection. For varnish/mediums skip Amazon, just use the half-off daily coupon for a bottle of artist's medium/varnish (Liquitex, Golden, W&N, whatever) at Michael's/AC Moore/Hobby Lobby/whatever is local to you.
Yeah, since you already have some minis and some understanding of how to paint, I'd probably start with this set: https://www.amazon.com/Game-Color-Intro-Set-16/dp/B000PHCTRK
I started with the Reaper Learn to Paint set, which is cheaper and comes with three minis and good instructions. I like it, but I like the Vallejo paints I've gotten since then better.
I would not buy Citadel paints to start with because of the pots. They seem designed to waste paint and that really annoys me.
That said I'd consider buying the set of Citadel washes you can find on Amazon. In that case the pot is great because you can usually dip right into it.
I have a suggestion for paint set to use. There is a Vallejo rust set you can get on Amazon for about 20 bucks that has everything you need to make great rust along with a tutorial on how to do it.
Amazon link to dropper bottles
I, personally, have ordered these multiple times and they are fantastic.
Here are some notes I made dude. Steel was using those 3 below plus warcolors white and vmc black
PAINT SET: Ork Boy
Steel: Ghost Grey - Vallejo - 72.046 Adriatic Blue - Scale75 - SC15 Dark Sea Blue - Vallejo - 70.898
Skin: Eclipse Grey - Scale75 - SC16 Graphite - Scale75 - SC03 Nacar - Scale75 - SC02
SUBSET NOTES: olive drab also
Leather: Dubai Brown - Scale75 - SC13 Orange 3 - Warcolours
SUBSET NOTES: need to try and create cracked texture
Clothes: Mephiston Red - Citadel - 9004 Orange 3 - Warcolours
Red Leather: Kalahari Orange - Scale75 - SC14 Mephiston Red - Citadel - 9004 Dubai Brown - Scale75 - SC13
Powered by paintRack v1.24.0.2 for Android by Courageous Octopus! Get it now on Google Play at https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.courageousoctopus.paintrack
https://www.amazon.co.uk/General-Pencil-Masters-Cleaner-Preserver-1oz/dp/B001TNR7VM
Get this stuff. It's made of unicorn tears, will remove all paint residue and will fix your brushes. Friend bought it to me for birthday presents and it's saved 2 brushes I was ready to throw away.
Forgot your other question! It’s actually sticky tack like from the office supply section that would be for putting up posters and such. Loctite Fun-Tak Mounting Putty 2-Ounce (1087306) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F57ZPW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_t-tQBbKF8MKKT I use it to stick minis to pop bottles so I can spray paint them to prime them.
Keeps an inventory of your paints. So when you're standing in the store and looking at a miniature and trying to decided if you have all the colors your need for a miniature, you can just look on your phone and see what you have. Most of the apps also have the ability to scan the the barcode on the paint pot and/or dropper bottle to add it to your inventory. They also show a color swatch of each color, so you can kind of make a shopping list of colors you want, as well as the ones your ran out of of. And it will let you make paint lists, so you can create a list for a certain miniature, and add all the paints for that miniature to the list.
The two that I have found so far are:
iOS
Paint Pot: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/paint-pot/id779437891?mt=8
Android
Paint Rack: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.courageousoctopus.paintrack&hl=en
I think both apps are looking to add some kind of social functionality where you'll be able to create lists and share them. I'm hoping they can add a recipe manager, so I can record custom paint mixes I do.
Now, I am not painting wargaming minis. I'm painting Fantasy RPG minis. There are usually no pre-defined color schemes for these things. So, keeping lists would be very helpful for me.
I use a painting handle that has a support bar on it that I can grab or lean my hand/fingers against at different angles to help steady it. Maybe it could work for your "friend"?
Here is the specific one I purchased, but I'm sure there are others out there:
https://www.amazon.com/Jucoci-Miniautres-Compatible-Miniatures-Figurines/dp/B09DCN3Y38?th=1
If it were me, I might try purchasing something like https://www.etsy.com/uk/search?q=batman+nail+decals a water transfer decal, especially if the intent isn't for the item to get heavy use/be "played with. If you go through Etsy you might be able to have them create one (or a couple...so that you can practice and get it right) at a size you specify. You can probably use a little bit of acetone (I'm not 100% sure tho that it won't damage the plastic...I would try it on another toy or a hidden area) to remove the remainder of the current logo.
Shoutout to /u/randomisation for his critique when I posted the WIP, thanks again! I realized today I hadn't shared the finished piece. Also, the pics for this one were done with my new Foldio shortly after I received it.
High heavens, a kickstarter board game just started delivering minis. It has Greek gods and monsters. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/ryanlesser/high-heavens-the-board-game-where-gods-battle-in-t/posts
The price has gone up a bit since I bought them, but these are the ones I got.
We’re all dealing with a lot at the moment, so its completely natural to feel out of synergy with life.
Perhaps look into some breathing exercises and mindfulness to tackle your anxiety. In addition, make sure you get plenty of sleep with a good sleeping pattern.
Getting outside and going for a walk is honestly one of the best things you can do; be inspired by nature and see the perfection of our planet.
I’ve personally taken it upon myself to learn more about NASA and space, the perseverance rover is extremely inspiring as an engineer, you guys across the pond are doing some amazing work.
Warhammer is a wonderful hobby and can be a force for good; It has a wonderful community. But at no point should it create pain for you.
My close friend utilises it as a medium to distract himself from his own issues. He’s a carer in the UK, working with dementia patients and dealing past outbreaks of COVID-19.
He has started multiple armies, only to paint a couple and consequently sell them on eBay. It’s has been persistent issue for the last 18 years.
We’ve had many conversations and acknowledged it’s an issue, a combination of possible anxiety, addiction and a coping mechanism. He’s accepted it, understands it and try’s to manage it.
We’re all complicated biological machines, don’t be hard on yourself and remember to take deep breath’s😊
P.S perhaps you could keep a blog for yourself and friends. Keep a photo diary at varying stages of a build / painting, with the final product as a blog entry, all with a closing thought of what you’ve learned from the experience.
If you sell the item or throw it in the bin, you’ve got the memory and that’s much more valuable.
https://wordpress.com/ - blog creation
https://www.mind.org.uk/ - Resource in the UK
Put on an audio-book with really gnarly fantasy elements and just zone in. Currently listening to Kings of the Wyld, fantasy story about a band of heroes fighting orcs, undead, and the like.
Also helps to take a break every hour to walk around and get some air. Stretch your eyes every so often by focusing on something distant, that will keep your eyes from getting too tired.
I used some of Antti Autio's "Xeno Project" ships (but used them for different races than he did). The ships are made from sprues from the old Silent Death game - I had to order them from a shop in the UK. The space stations are made mostly from left over 40k and Battlefleet Gothic bits.
I feel that. When I first started my campaign, I bought way too many minis at first, for every NPC and monster, and felt really pressured to finish them all really quickly. If it helps at all, I use this tool for color schemes: http://colormind.io/
If you're using a dark red, for instance, you can put a dark red that's similar to your paint color in one of the boxes, and click the lock to lock it down, then generate a scheme of complimentary colors based on that one. It's pretty helpful for getting the hang of colors and even feeling out color schemes you wouldn't have thought of.
I tried to grab the purple you used with the Reaper Power Palette, then I plugged it into paletton.com which gives you various options to extrapolate a palette from a given input color. Typically I think people favor the split complement.
It's not an exact science.
You can try playing around with the Adobe color wheel tool if you're not really familiar with how colors work together in different types of schemes.
Easiest option is to buy a colour wheel from an art store. OR, check out Adobe Kuler: https://color.adobe.com/
You can pick a colour, then change the colour rules to see different colours and work with it.
For example, choosing orange, blue, teal and mud work in multiple ways. By choosing Custom, you can play with the other boxes and see how other colours look next to your Orange pick.
Looks good.
As for your potential things to add, I would load the pictures into a photo editor like Clip Studio Paint, Photoshop or some other editor with brush tools and you can sketch potential changes to give yourself a rough preview of how it may look.
Here are the studio art versions if you want a good reference to compare to, and multiple versions painted by other people on /r/bloodbornebg for ideas on potential things to add.
I used these rare earth magnets and whenever possible stacked two when gluing them in.
The hold is pretty good, I can lift the miniature by a magnetized arm or head.
I have two of these (or smth that looks exactly like it). Works extremely well.
TMANGO Head Mount Magnifier with Lights, Magnifying Headset Glasses for Close Up Work, Watch, Cross-Stitch, Jewelry, Embroidery, Arts & Crafts or Reading Aid with Headband https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075NTR3FZ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_MWR8E8RMD65Y4FW6W5RS
I just got two of these and they hold 24ml no problem, if thats what you're talking about. They are sturdy as hell and fit my Army Painter and Citadel pots no problem
I use Bob Smith Industries CA glue for anything not plastic to plastic. I use Tamiya Extra Thin for plastic to plastic.
What you're referring to there is the primer coat.
All minis should be primed regardless of material unless they come pre-primed, such as Nolzur's Marvellous Miniatures/Pathfinder Battles, or they're manufactured in such a way that they don't require priming, such as Reaper Bones.
Primer is a specific type of paint that improves the adherence of normal acrylic paint so no, you can't just use a coat of normal paint to get the same result. If you don't prime first then you'll find your finished paint is much more fragile and far less durable - you'll likely just be able to push the paint off your model with your fingertip.
However it really doesn't need to be a spray primer, there are plenty of brush-on primers available. I personally use Vallejo primer because I dislike spray paints.
u/Anvish2656 is correct. It's from this Militarum Tempestus Scions kit: https://www.amazon.com/Warhammer-Militarum-Tempetus-Games-Workshop/dp/B00JH131SG/ref=sr\_1\_2?dchild=1&keywords=tempestus+scions&qid=1625675369&sr=8-2
I'm sure you can find them elsewhere, but I got them from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QZTVHQF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_DNAP6JHMN7E4DF1MG9JF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
There are other miniatures you can get, like goblins and the main cast
Hey man! So for fine lines, there are certainly some tools that I rely on, like a good brush with a sharp tip and a magnifier headset. I'll link the headset below. The brush I use for details is a Rosemary and Co Series 33 size 0, but other good sable brushes should work (Windsor and Newton Series 7 and Raphael 8404 brushes for example). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAU5FSC
I think it's also important to know how to brace your body. Usually when I paint, I keep my feet planted on the floor, my elbows planted on either my thighs or the arms of my chair, my wrists on the edge of the desk, and my hands braced against each other. This prevents my hands from shaking while painting. When making contact with the surface of the model with the brush, I always focus on the tip of the brush. Learning how the tip of the brush reacts based on the amount of pressure applied is a large part of learning proper brush control. For incredibly sharp lines, only the tip of the brush should make contact with the model and the paint should be at a consistency that allows it to flow off the tip, without it spilling everywhere or instantly drying on the tip. Imagine the paint in the brush like ink in an fountain pen, where only the tip of the pen needs to make contact with the paper for the ink to start flowing. Normally to accomplish this, I'll thin the paint on my palette with a small amount of water, load my brush with the thinned paint, and briefly swipe the brush on a paper towel or the back of my hand. This helps to get excess moisture out of the brush so it stays controllable. Other than that, it really just comes down to consistent practice since muscle memory plays a huge part in all this; and there isn't really a way around that, unfortunately. Hopefully this helps a bit!
I use this Vallejo primer - doesn't need thinning, can be applied with brush or airbrush and is cheap and effective! Is available in a variety of colours too and can be bought worldwide.
I’ve been using these for a few years now. While it looks bulky, it’s not that uncomfortable to wear for long periods and being able to change the magnification on the fly is quite handy. The only real con is the light isn’t all that bright, but I usually a lamp for lighting so it isn’t that big of an issue. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D12Z2Y2
I have a small dedicated paint station for now. So I needed storage for everything. This is what my wife bought me. I store all my paints, excess brushes, literally everything I'm not using in it and trust me when I say I have a lot of shit. Plus it's got wheels. Absolutely the best thing I've recieved for this hobby.
Vallejo has game color paint sets, they have something like 16 paints included, and you might be able to get two separate sets, perhaps themetallic set, if she's into that they're not perfect, but they are a very common brand for minipainting
Here's a link to the product page on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009T6XTC2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ALm7vb07C6GXB. You can paint over it with no problems, and I was able to paint the traces thin enough that the layers of paint above them hide their existence. The one (potentially unnecessary) precaution I took was to avoid using any metallic paints in a way that might bridge the two traces. I did this by "sealing" the dry traces with undiluted black paint. I've never left the light on for more than a minute or so, so I couldn't tell you how hot it might get.
I don't have any pictures of my actual station, but I purchased a sewing station from amazon (I got it in white) and I have been very pleased with it. It all folds up into a cabinet, but when I am using it the front left door swings open to reveal bins for storage and acts as the support for the table that swings up. It also has 3 shelves built in on the right side. Since I do use this for sewing as well all of this storage has been amazing for me to keep all my hobby/craft shit contained!
This has also worked for me because I like to paint with other people. I can put my lamps in the center of the desk and when I put the table arm up it creates another spot on the opposite side where a person can sit.
Also re: other products for a paint station, I bought two nail polish racks for paint storage and it has worked really well for my citadel + vallejo paints.
Here is the paint rack. There are a few different ones on amazon
Home-it Nail Polish Rack Nail Polish Organizer Holds up to 102 Bottles Great nail polish holder nail polish storage https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GBC0JVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RCPfyb510KGB9
As for the spray booth:
Master Airbrush Brand Portable Hobby Airbrush Spray Booth for Painting All Art, Cake, Craft, Hobby, Nails, T-shirts & More. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMUH8L6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pEPfyb2BJE5NP
So this is what I found. Don't waste your time. Buy 3 Windsor Newton Series 7 brushes from Amazon(#00, #1, #2 for $40 bucks, just $10 dollars more than these) instead. You'll get much much much more mileage out of them. I have pictures of base coating 2 ork minis but honestly I was so disappointed in the Siberian Kolonski's that I just stopped. Out of the package they had dirt/dust/something in the bristles and I had to pick the fluff off the mini. No spring in the bristles, they never returned to the starting position. As I applied pressure to the tip the bristles would look like \ and would stay like that. The WNS7 popped right back into place. The bristles splayed and I had to trim some errant hairs. I had to clean and condition every brush I used.
I have lots of hobbies mini painting is just one of them. I have found that if you really enjoy your hobby one of the best things you can do is spend the money on quality tools. Sure I understand buying a $20 dollar grinder to grind something once in awhile but if you do it everyday you go out and spend the money. This is no exception. I try to paint every day, both minis and canvas. The brushes that OP linked are not worth the trouble.
The one redeeming factor for these (as I always like to say something positive) is after conditioning the size "8" brush will be used to lay down washes and glazes.
Amazon has packs of 100 skeletons and 100 zombies for about $18.
As somebody who also bought Reaper's Learn to Paint kit, I would recommend getting the second set they have as well (Layer Up). It teaches you more useful techniques, mostly focusing on how to use layers as another way to get shadows and highlights alongside washing and drybrushing. Also, for your particular needs, it gives you 2 different reds and a different blue than the first kit, giving you a lot of options for blending up a good purple. None of the paints are repeated and the two sets together have really served me well so far. Here's the second kit on Amazon, but it's easy to find in a lot of places: https://www.amazon.com/Layer-Bones-Miniatures-Learn-Reaper/dp/B01N458GBK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1506348474&sr=8-4&keywords=reaper+learn+to+paint Edit: Forgot to say that from one new painter to another, this looks incredible! Keep it up!
- A wet palette, and/or a ceramic well palette.
- A puck of Master's brush soap if he's wearing out his brushes quickly. A decent sable brush should last for years.
- Don't bother with #00, even #0 is questionable. #1-3 are the ones to get, provided the tip is good. "Always use the biggest brush you can get away with", because the tip is just as sharp on a quality #2 as on a #0 but the belly is much better at keeping the paint wet so it doesn't dry on the brush while you are working. Here is a da Vinci kolinsky with the length of a #2 and the belly of a #3 at $6.30 currently on Amazon. Keep your eyes open because there are often really good deals for da Vinci kolinskys on Amazon if you check all the models/set up good price watches (series to watch are 10, 11, 35, 5506, 36Y, 1526Y, 1500J)
If you plan on playing with the minis do game air not model air. My understanding is that model air is not made to be handled.
Also I think the model master airbrush set from Amazon is more than enough for a beginner. No need to lay down 500 bucks for a good airbrush and compressor.
Master Airbrush Multi-purpose Gravity Feed Dual-action Airbrush Kit with 6 Foot Hose and a Powerful 1/5hp Single Piston Quiet Air Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZJ2hAb4CFX01K
Testors will not flow the way you need for fine detail or realistic finishes.
I only paint occasionally, so I didn't want to invest a ton of cash. The Army Painter kit sold here on Amazon suits me.
It's an affordable kit with good reviews. You get most of the basic colors that can be blended or used alone. I just supplement with pre-made mixed colors when I know I need a lot of one particular color and it has to be consistent from piece to piece.
Here's an example on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Inch-Art-Tape-Professional-Adhesive/dp/B01JB8E4KS
You don't need to order this specific one (odds are you can easily find something similar locally), but notice it comes in different sizes all the way down to 1/8 of an inch wide.
Hey OP, you specifically need brush soap. Also for some really gunky brushes you can get some brush restorer. The first is a soap made specifically for paint brushes and the restorer is a clear liquid that can help get paint that is caught in the ferrule. The restorer is great. I bought a set of helping hands and I've revived some really old brushes by just letting them sit in there for a few hours. Winsdor and Newton make the restorer.
Anyways, brush soap is ideal for holding the bristles firm and to help remove paint from between the fibers. You definitely need to get some. Even if you still go through brushes like mad this is just proper brush-hygiene. My cleaning process is to at least clean every brush I used at the end of every painting session. I also clean them when I move to a totally different color (e.g. blues to reds). "The Masters" is a good and very popular brush soap and I also oddly like the scent Amazon Link.
Cheers, PS: Make sure you get the soap wet before you start swiping the brush all up on it. ;)
Edit: PSS: Do not stick your brush in restorer fluid past the ferrule. It will eat away the glue binding everything together and you will have ruined a brush.
I like the Vallejo grey acrylic primer, I usually get it on amazon or my LGS. It's a little on the thin side, so a few coats might be needed, but it works really well. I'd for sure avoid spray-on car primer (don't ask haha) because it's too thick and will obscure details. This is a link to the one on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Grey-Primer-Acrylic-Polyurethane/dp/B005HXHNPA/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1528389927&sr=8-17&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Vallejo
I got some foam cutouts from Amazon for my zombicide box. Each figure has its own little resting place. Edit: Found it
In case you didn't find the mini here it is on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Dark-Heaven-Goldar-the-Barbarian/dp/B004CNVTRE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1533727981&sr=8-1&keywords=reaper+barbarian
It's an interesting German paint that I read about called UHU. Amazon carries it, but sadly the single tubes take forever to ship, and the 5 pack is WAY overkill. So I have enough to last me forever now. Here's the link: Uhu 38106 All Purpose Adhesive - 125ml Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0031RG2GA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_poz9BbPERGCKR
It was surprisingly easy, it dries very fast. I mixed it with Citadel Blood for the Blood God, then went over the finished effect again with a gloss varnish (Vallejo) after sealing it all with Dullcoat.
Amazon! They're lifesavers - here's the link.
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I've got one of those. It's a little plastic organizer. Amazon. The toothbrush is probably for cleaning off mould release agent or stripping models. I also sometimes flick blood onto models with a toothbrush to get a splatter effect.
thinner, cleaner, and probably one of the cleaning cup things (not essential but it is a lot more pleasant to use.
i got one of those cheap kits last spring, and while im not doing super precise fades, or thin freehand lines. the cheap one will do pretty well for you while you learn the basics beyond just spray priming. im still eyeing a nice Badger airbrush, but see no immediate need yet.
saw the one you linked, i will go a step further and suggest you spend a little extra and get a kit with a tank like this it will make a big difference in the long run and you will almost never have a reason to upgrade stuff beyond the actual airbrush.
Thanks this is what I'm looking for, very helpful. I'm still on the fence, again in really just doing this to prime. I'll stop by the store tomorrow and have a look..
This is the kit I'm getting. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B071J4M3X6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_flyyFb54ABG1M
Something like this would be a good start for priming and base coating.
Master Airbrush Cool Runner II Dual Fan Air Compressor Professional Airbrushing System Kit with 3 Airbrushes, Gravity and Siphon Feed - 6 Primary Opaque Colors Acrylic Paint Artist Set - How to Guide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EKT30JK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_a06wFbHYTBKPE
You’d want to upgrade the airbrush at a later date for a better experience overall.
Oh hellll no! They are cheaper from the 3rd parties that are preying on the people preying on those blocked people.
This is what i got.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RY69431/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AEggFbRP55KRH
To make my wet palette, I find it works really well if you use a shammy like this . Only wet the shammy until it can't absorb any more, then add a little water so it can soak up a little more before it dries. Then put on a piece of parchment paper roughly the same size of the shammy.
I think Paint Rack is (imo) the de facto standard for Android. It has a huge paint range, easily manages your inventory, wishlist, and has a nice "set" feature for remembering recipes and such.
Plus it has tools to find matches within and across paint lines, along with complementary colors and triads as well.
It's free, with a few features behind a small fee (might be $5? worth it).
I looked at a few others (Hobby Color Converter I think was the other, but I never found it to be all that great), but haven't really seen much else worth having. Citadel's app isn't bad, but obviously hyper focused on their paint and miniature lines.
Will be interested to see if there are others out there that I've just missed!