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They got the big boy bottles to give that boy a proper bath
I think they were these. There was a post about them some days ago.
WHEN DA MEK KANT ATTATZ DA BITS TO EACH OVA DEN DAT MEK NEEDS DA BIG MAGNETS.
IZ U ORKY MEK? Super Strong Neodymium Magnet N45 4 x 1 x 1/4" Permanent Magnet Bar, The World's Strongest & Most Powerful Rare Earth Magnets by Applied Magnets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KDJGQP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yVUQBb385CMMW
OR DA 'UMIE MEK? Super Magnets Magnetic aa (6X3MM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077LCCGMM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vZUQBbVCW4SY9
If you wish to download the here is the STL file for free :) https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/it-s-not-a-phase-mom-i-m-a-space-ork
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FBMRAK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Now picture it if you somehow incorporated a black light into one of your models - maybe hide it somewhere on a Battlewagon or a Gork/Morkanaut or something.
Meng makes some sheets of them. Found them on amazon here is the link. Hope that’s helpful:
Meng 1/35 Small Nuts and Bolts Set A Model Kit https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00DUQ7ORI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_glt_i_70ZH6CXTAQ3ACMTTXQZH
I used these for my warbuggies. I think they are 152mm long. They also sell bags of these at Hobby Lobby.
Just spray painted them black.
After searching the web a bit I found someone that posted the size of the gargantuan squiggoth https://i.imgur.com/hhkd9Sp.jpg
Using these specifications I think a model tank on the scale of 1/20 should be about right. Here’s an RC one that might be kinda fun to convert. Not only can you drive it but it shoots bbs so that’s also pretty cool.
If your looking for something made by GW to convert I only play Orks so I would just browse Forgeworld until I find something from a different faction that could be easily converted.
I went extra thin. Officially 1/25th, but it seems thicker than that to me. In a rush so I needed Cork I could get shipped next day on the cheap. While I've got piles of 1/4 thick stuff, I wanted something thinner. I think 1/8 to 1/16 would have worked well too depending on the look you were after.
https://www.amazon.com/Board-Dudes-Hobby-Adhesive-CYC90/dp/B0079XLR3A/
I really enjoyed the prophet of the waaagh book. Lots of backstory for Ghaz, makari, grotsnik and how ghaz rose to the top. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ghazghkull-Thraka-Prophet-Waaagh-Warhammer/dp/1800261349/ref=asc_df_1800261349/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=535932964787&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9276109196257107696&hvpone=&hvptwo=&...
For GW models right now I have my Mek Eye on the necromunda: cargo-8 ridgehauler
Here is the base I used for some Grot Tanks - Put KMBs on them and they are way better at triggering the +1 to hit than Mek Guns as they are more mobile
https://www.amazon.com/Military-Vehicles-Tanks-Small-Diecast/dp/B08JYJ6M27
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JTKGF6L?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
That's the container I'm using. I'm not sure how tall a dakkajet is. But my deffkoptas have a good inch of clearance probably. The details page says 5.3" of internal depth on the container.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tamiya-300035186-Diorama-Barrels-Canister/dp/B00061H4GQ
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Thats what i used
ttps://www.amazon.com/Kissity-Decoration-Glass-Beads-0-6-0-8mm/dp/B06XHHKGM5/
I got them from a hobby store, but it's the same basic product. I drilled in a tiny bit with a pin vice and a 1mm bit, dabbed in some plastic cement, and then pressed the bead in a little bit to make sure it's in there. The cement doesn't actually adhere to the bead but it forms around it well enough that it holds it in.
Well they look manufactured, so good work!
I've got an unrelated, unrequested tip: I use these to make rivets on my stuff. They're just about the perfect size to fit visually with GW kits. I drill a shallow hole with a pin vise, dab in plastic cement, then press one of these in. The cement doesn't adhere to them, but it forms around them perfectly so they don't fall back out.
https://www.amazon.com/Kissity-Decoration-Glass-Beads-0-6-0-8mm/dp/B06XHHKGM5
Thanks! I chopped up an old halloween decoration - kind of like this one
The ghazkull thrakka book actually kinda deals with this, it's really cool to hear the boss of bosses talk about how:
"the boys believe it, because he believes it, and he believes it because he has to believe it"
I've seen a lot of people use the 1:48 F4U Corsair, but I really like the idea of taking the 1:48 Brewster Buffalo and adding bits to make it proppa orky. The proportions are just about perfect - chunky with stubby mid-mounted wings. Leave off the prop and radial engine and you have a very dakkajet-styled air intake up front.
Vallejo makes a fantastic plastic putty. I'm a fan because it's got low enough viscosity to let it go into crevices but it's also stiff enough to let you work with it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TSBJEO/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_NYmO8c153vn8o
By the way, bonus points to you for being willing to fill gaps and clean mould lines on Boyz, even if they are the pretty-looking new models. I've had to paint so damn many of them that I don't even bother with much besides sanding the spots where I cut them from the sprues.
Washers are from Lowes. I don't have the exact sku but make sure they are magnetic.
If you got a 3D printer or have someone who has one, or just are ok with paying someone else to print it for you, I think these would work well:
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/ork-freebooters-conversion-set
I didn't sculpt the orks head nor any other part apart from some bits eg cape and ork signs, all of these parts are made by different people and under a mix license which means I could kitbash them and put it for free to download, so this is what I've made this with 7-8 different parts by other people which I credited in description. I have my own work on my cults3D page as well that is made 100% by me its mostly adeptus mechanicus proxies(example: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/robot-droidtex). For the patreon page I haven't yet made anything me and my brother that are sharing the patreon page are currently working on a welcome page which will consist of 2 squads and will release soon :) so far the patreons that are supporting us are just doing it for the sake of helping us grow and release more free kitbash stuff which we are thankful for as modelling takes a long time especially when you want to perfect it, eg. make multi options and customization.
Interms of our own creations personally i'm planning to make my own variant of adeptus mechanicus as I feel most of the models are tacky and look too much steampunky, which isn't a bad thing but I personally don't like it that much, as well as make cultist space marines which will be a religious variant and ork space marines as I love orks and the ability to make them as crazy as I want. As for my brother he is making god themed space marines and ww2 space marines for patreon.
We are hoping to complete the welcome package by the end of this month :)
I was hunting for cheaper alternatives that were the same size. Stripped the paint and harnessed Gork.
Here is a remix I made of a Red Gobbo. This is meant to proxy as a Nob with Waagh banner for my all grot army (minus 2-3 chars).
It is 3d printable and can be found for free on my cults!
My grot army is actually pretty mean, and will feature ~15 killa kans, 18 smasha gunz, 4 tankz, a biker boss, waagh banner and a big mek with kff! Yes I know this would cost a fortune from GW, but only about $40 of resin for my 3d printer :)
If you are interested in seeing some of my progress here I have a link to my Instagram on my cults page linked.
Let me know if you have any questions!
*...the work on the skin is 👌.
FTFY
👌 is not ‘okay’ (even though it’s often mistakenly used that way). You can’t make a proper ok sign without straight fingers, and you can’t do that without hooking your forefinger under your thumb.
👌 is like the Italian ‘Bellissimo!’ 👌👌 it means ‘spot on’, ‘just right’:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0JzJYlNsf0c
Okay:
Patrol boxes usually have around 500pts, I think the ork comes to about 560 depending on loadout. So you're not going to get to 1000 with just that, but 500 pt games are a better place to start if you're completely new.
As far as the rockets vs heavy gun, neither of them is really worth running comptetively, so it's really up to you. You're going to need more boyz at some point, so I wouldn't worry too much about which one you build now.
Deff Dreads I usually go with a 3:1 loadout. Either 3 saws and 1 KMB, or the opposite. The best thing you can do is magenetize him. Kits like this come with magnets and the appropriate sized bits and area a worthwhile investment.
>Batallion
You're damn right. Thanks for pointing out the mistake. The Freebooter Battalion is obviously a good improvement on the list. I could make Kaptin Badrukk, Weirdboy, 3x Gretchin, Flash Gitz, Mek Guns and the Dakkajet together into Freebooter.
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The only problem I have personally is that our gaming group has a Gentelmans agreement that you don't mix multiple factions and Kultur, Order, Forgeworlds, etc.
It makes for a nicer list with more style and background. I know that orcs in the story go into battle with mixed Kultur. But I still have to decide if I want to take the step.
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Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
Ya, I don't think you'll get much support here, sorry man. What I would do is google search game/card shops in the area and start calling them. They will tell you right off the bat if people come into play. I know there are also websites like https://meetup.com . I don't know if the site will help you but I'm willing to bet there are Japanese equivalents.
I've done it twice now, both arms and "hands" magnetised.
Think it was these magnets used for the arms. When you make up the body, you can glue the magnets in the inside of the arm sockets so no drilling needed their.
first4magnets™ SP515-50 Magnet Expert® 5mm dia x 1.5mm thick N42 Neodymium Magnet ( Pack of 50 ) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00TACFNXS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_GB9KD9V2AATQJRTKFZ4D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Obs smaller magnets needed for "hands'
It's basing sand and PVA glue + some water to make it easier to spread
War World Scenics Army Fine Model Sand - 180ml Tub – Wargame Scenery Miniature Basing Material Landscape Model Modelling Diorama Railway Railroad Layout https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07NGSSYXZ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_JF54SPJW2NV8D85FF00E
This was the sand
The grills either side of the guitarist are the speakers! They're tiny (~3cm cubed) but put out a lot of noise. I'll grab pictures of them in the morning.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/iStar-Speaker-Bluetooth-Selfie-Remote-White/dp/B01H5HK03M?th=1
2*1.5*0.5mm from Amazon. I still have loads of it left for future projects
PandaHall Elite 5 Meter Brass Cross Chains Cable Chain Size 2x1.5x0.5mm Jewelry Making Chain Antique Bronze https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01B1FGQ4Q/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_H86SP61GA711MJFVVS6F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Not sure if you're set on a paint brand or wanting to buy singles, but this paint kit might give you a good range and then some for what you're looking for. I don't use these specific colors (I like mine obnoxiously bright), but I like the Vallejo paints more than Citadel paints.
Also cheap primer from your hardwarestore/walmart/whatever works fine. You can avoid the hobby mark up and get Rustoleum or Color Max, at least from my experience.
Ebay can be a great place to pick things up depending on what's available. I usually just filter to US because I don't want to add a huge shipping cost as well.
I use a push saw made for dovetailing called a razor saw I have this kit Zona 35-140 4-in-1 Saw Set with Four Interchangable Blades, 36-555, 36-050, 36-458, 36-408 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EROWJ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SPVVP0NXMT6K694ZX1Y3
and have used the small full length blade to make super clean cuts.
That's quite the complement, thank you. I wasn't able to find the same rhino, but I did find this but at that price it's probably better to keep an eye out at thriftshops. Ian Wyatt on youtube made one with a bronto toy that looked great.
I got this and like it. Different sized bits too for different sized barrels. Just drilling in a bit makes them look like actual guns and not just metal bricks.
Games Workshop 99070209003 Ironjawz Orruk Megaboss Tabletop and Miniature Gaming https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ETNW7PY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_WA44SHPD8XZP6525KRTZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The Orruk Megaboss. Good model, but takes some modification to fit 40k
It is 1/35. Mostly the best scale for wh40k conversions. Got it on amazon: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00061HLHI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I think you can get other cheaper models but this one worked fine.
Thanks ! The tool used for the scratches and bullet holes were a mixture of a 1mm pcb Drill bit and small dremel cutter ball bit, plus a few scalpel nicks here and there .
Mostly I use the smallest size. For smaller rivets I heat a bit of sprue and pull it to get a thin evenly shaped tube. This I cut up into rivets.
Kinda hard to see? Looks like an ork with looted necron tech. It does look like you may have gone a bit overboard with superglue - I recommend you pick up a crazyglue that uses a little brush applicator to help control how much / where you apply it. Will pay off when you paint it (wont have clogged details).
I use this stuff, personally - cheap, strong, and pretty common in grocery stores in my area: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7VJQ7V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_KSLbGbQ2ZC5Y6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I didn't get this specific one I think the one I got was a $50 one. Which isn't bad for priming with the cheaper ones you just have to care a little bit more on clean up and not get too crazy on clogging. I used mine of almost a year before I wanted a "real" airbrush and got a iwata and a compressor. Though even with my iwata sometimes I still break out my usb airbrush for priming
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YBZKM1F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_xwy6FbXF0YFVD
I bought a hard suitcase from a second hand store for $15 or so, then I picked up some foam to line it with from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079YZWNG5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm really please with it.
Thanks!
I set this team up not taking into account Elites. Don't have the book yet and my friends and I have yet to play a game, so I just based it off of other people's lists. In fact, I literally took this same list:
https://www.reddit.com/r/killteam/comments/a3f3e1/_/eb5nnmi
My only problem with it now is from a fluff perspective. I just don't feel like having a gretchin leader.
The list I'm currently building toward has a Kommando boss nob as the leader, less gretchin and boyz with in a few kommandos added in.
Here's the boxes I used for all these gitz in the picture:
1 x Boyz
1 x Nobz
1 x Gretchin
1 x Lootas/Burna Boyz
Also grabbed the Spellcrow Ork Gas Masks pack off of Amazon, and I plan to use those heads for the Kommandos I'll be adding to the roster. Link to gas mask heads on Amazon
For what's pictured, everything is standard, except for these modifications:
The Kommando Boss Nob I used one of the Spellcrow heads, and used the ammo backpack from the Lootas/Burna Boyz box. The rest is all from the Nobz box with one addition: I added a "silencer" on the end of his gun which was a pole from one of the various kits (don't remember which) that I clipped down, drilled out, and glued on.
The Boss Nob has a right arm from one of the Lootas that I'm using as a Kombi-skorcha. The actual kombi-skorcha in the Nobz kit is designed for two hands, but it's legal to take another weapon, so hey, you make stuff work!
The orange is an undercoat of Averland Sunset applied in 2-3 layers, then a heavy drybrush of Trollslayer Orange and finally a wash of Casandora Yellow (I may have let it pool a bit too much in some spots). For a final highlight you could add Fire Dragon Bright.
You can get very similar results with a very thin layer of Gryph Hound Orange instead of Trollslayer Orange and Casandora Yellow, but I find it's very hard to get consistency on large/flat surfaces.
Regarding the conversion, I used this 1/35 T-60 kit for the tracks and turret. The rokkit is half of a deff dread's rokkit arm. The rest is plasticard, some I-beam profile, bits of tube and sprue cutoffs. For the tiny bolts I used something like this.
You're looking for a pin vise. This is the one I have, but it's nothing special:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KL3WSQ/
Then you're looking for a small drill bit. Mine is a size #60, but I used to work at a specialty tool store that stocked them. You'd probably have an easier time finding a 3/64th inch bit.
Then it's just about finding paperclips that fit the hole you made, and clippers to cut the paper clips. Make sure to use super glue when installing pins!
I used this 1/35 T-60 kit for the tracks and turret. The rokkit is half of a deff dread's rokkit arm. The rest is plasticard, some H-beam profile, bits of tube and sprue cutoffs. For the tiny bolts I used something like this. The rest is all from the Trukk kit.
For rivets u can either buy the very small stick on costume gems, or u can cut the long sticks of plasticard into bits.
The gems could be something as easy as these (using the smaller ones)
DECORA 325 Gold Diamante Stick on Rhinestone Stickers Gems Cards and Self Adhesive Craft Bling https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00YRG0PJ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_to4vFbTC1DMNJ
I actually bought this off amazon (no idea how it's legal) and toss it in a retropi 4. If you just wanted to play old games, you could have it up and running for like $100 in 10 minutes.
Conversion bits you can get from websites like Bits of War, Foxbox Miniatures, and Spellcrow. This is great for kitbashing infantry you typically would not have access to, you just need a bunch of ork boyz kits and you can make: Kommandoz, Stormboyz, Tankbustaz, and more. Using conversion bitz will increase your costs but every ork will look pretty unique on the table.
I turned to 3D printing when it comes to vehicles. An Creality Ender 3 can be purchased off Amazon for $230, you'll want a few spools of filament and other tools so let's say $300~ as an initial investment for the machine. A detachment of three Stompaz retails for $375, Our Forge World stuff is overpriced and huge chunks of resin, each individual Mek Gun is $50! Making a vehicle based list like GW really, really wants you to do can cost well upwards of $500.
So right out the gate, 3D printing your vehicles and terrain is more cost effective than GW, and more Orky. A single spool of 1.75 PLA filament is around $20, and you can print quite a lot with it. It also frees you up to try any Ork vehicle you want to try as GorkaMorka intended.
Keep in mind though, 3D printing pretty much restricts you to FLGS play, where you will be that crazy guy with the giant ork robots. Then again, I don't see there being any big tournaments in the big future anyway.
have you tried amazon? I got mine from there
source: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ETNROW0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.LostTitleStudios.WH40KDiceCom&hl=en_US
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Worth a look!
three or four years ago (when they were like £10 I got one of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Warhammer-40k-Ork-Dice-Bag/dp/1616619880/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=ork+dice+bag&qid=1560240034&s=gateway&sr=8-5 and about 400 or so d6's to put in it
Would this be better? Then I could cut some to fit stormboys if needed?
Feldherr MAXI Figure Case for 150 standard sized figures and Tanks or Monster https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXECIHV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tF0KAbYA3XYH9
They are not light but somebody else linked this.
If you've never wargamed before I would suggest getting a bucket of toy soldiers and proxy the hell out of them. Get a feel for the rules and what you like and don't like, then start buying figures.
These: Four colors of doodz and these: Vehicles, arty and terrain
One of my favorite battles was between me and another Ork player who played Necrons for practice. His army consisted of poker chips, toy soldiers and a vanilla Yankee Candle (monolith of course). We still had a blast.
EDIT - Okay, the Battle of Vedros set is way cheaper than I was expecting - that would also be a fine starting option.