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I have been a home owner for exactly 1 year. Shortly after buying a house I hired a pool guy to deal with the general upkeep of my pool and it didn't go exactly as planned.
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In the course of that year I had to drain and refill my pool TWICE. First time he told me the water was "old" and the second more recent time was because he said my sand filter was shot and needed to be replaced (by him). Turns out, him chucking chlorine pucks into the pool on a weekly basis sky rocketed the CYA levels to 150ppm. After that revelation and reading up on this forum and Trouble Free Pools, I fired my pool guy, drained 3/4 of my water and set out on an adventure of taking care of my pool on my own. My pool has been crystal clear blue since!
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I bought a Taylor k-2006 test kit and have been working with my local pool company in getting everything balanced. Not as scary as I thought it would be, and actually quite easy.
>We are now out of a 100 pack test strips
This is the problem right here. Test strips do not give a reliable reading. You need a real test kit
https://www.amazon.com/TAYLOR-TECHNOLOGIES-K-2006-CHLORINE-FAS-DPD/dp/B004BGF7TI
Also sounds like he is testing too frequently
Long time swimmer here. Doing laps in your average backyard pool can be a little difficult unless you have an extraordinarily long pool. I recommend getting one of these as they let you swim in place. I’ve been using one for a few years and love it. Just make sure you don’t leave it out in the sun, rinse frequently, don’t leave it in the pool, and inspect it regularly for cracks in the bungee cable. I replace mine every two years or so. TYR Aquatic Resistance Belt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0093SRN1O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XY0SX6JKFN4MQ6GEWEK4
The solution to this problem is painfully obvious: Attach a concave mirror to the pool focal point, and point it towards a flat piece of black stone (like this: https://www.amazon.com/Cooking-Stone-Platter-Hibachi-Grilling/dp/B01G90UIBU) Instant grill, available on-demand*. You can call it the Archimedes' Grill.
^^*offer ^^void ^^when ^^demands ^^are ^^at ^^night, ^^bad ^^weather, ^^or ^^when ^^clouds ^^cover ^^death ^^ray
What about something like this? It attaches via zipper or velcro to the rail. A little nicer looking than pool noodles.
https://www.amazon.com/Rail-Grips-OSRG-4RB-Swimming-4-Feet/dp/B00CD94L4M
I use Taylor K-2006 test kit for everything except CYA (only because I quickly ran out of test reagent). For CYA I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDHOP8Y/ unfortunately it looks to be out of stock right now.
Get him to put out water feeders / birdbaths. Maybe with a bit of chlorine in it, supposedly like catnip, offer him a tablet. Needs to be closer than you are. This is best.
Warn him your pool has boric acid in it and its probably deadly to bees. Bioguard optimizer / proteam supreme are expensive versions of this. It also lowers surface tension so bugs cant land. They will find other sources. (A very useful pool chemical in a lot of ways, ph, algaecide, silky/sparkly )
All quats: benzyl ammonium chloride , polyquats: poly-xxx-ethylene dichloride, algacides even the cheap stuff (quats) reduces surface tension.
https://www.poolgeek.com/products/ultima-skimmersupport-clarifier. This is a purpose made surface tension reducer.
** Skill-it https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AM3SHJ6/ is used for the same reason youll see half the reviews are for wasps, bees, bugs. Less needed - some apparently just spray the waterline. (May not be best prices for either) edit- added note on skill-it
Actually it might be better for them to run one of these instead.
Pool Water Leveler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YVHGKGV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_899D6MSRYGJ3YCP26F3Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It would prevent them from over watering, no timers needed. There are a few different ones on Amazon
I'm in South Florida, with an un-screened pool- so i understand the water level issues with my side wall skimmer. I got a pool devil over the summer for about $40, and it worked great- Pool Devil on Amazon
Its a discharge side pool skimmer- so no loss of pressure on my pool vac. The float keeps it at water level, so it's always skimming.
downsides- - its a little unsightly. -The bag needs to be monitored, if it fills up too much it can blow the line out of the water and drain the pool! had this happen and lost 8 inches of water in a day! -bags need to be ordered- filter socks work pretty good too. might make a permanent filter with some screen later. -I had to re-plumb the discharge pipe to add a 1 1/2 in. thread, but it comes with a female and male 1 1/2 in. adapter.
For all the hassle I’d just buy a new one. Go generic those suckers are expensive.
CMP Replacement for Backup Valve for Polaris Pool Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RQ54TA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NDHWXPK59WBG4SV9H3PX
That’s a CMP brand back up valve. CMP makes really good knock off products. There are other generic ones that are cheaper too. There are plenty of online retailers if you don’t want to send Bezos to space again.
I have a few of these and many naps have been taken on them.
GE Enbrighten 40A Z-Wave Switch. $150 on Amazon and it ties into the rest of my home automation. I can set up run schedules from my phone and even make exceptions for extra hot or extra cold days.
Shaft seals. This is what you’ll need. Do not touch the shiny white or black surfaces of the shaft seal with your bare hands. The oils from your skin will cause premature failure. Wear rubber gloves.
One of these to fit in the hole at the bottom of the skimmer
I'll bet a local hardware store has something like it.
I just use a standard winter cover like this one and to fasten it I use the tension wire that it comes with along with a bunch of hands clamps like these which really help with being lifted up by the wind. As far as removing water I just use a small pump specifically meant for pool cover water removal.
Toys:
Suncast SS601C 22.5" x 17" x 22.5" 22 Gallon Outdoor Small Deck Box with Storage Seat and Reinforced Lid for Backyard or Patio in Cyberspace https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08S5PSXFN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_HXA67JW6G23F0GXQRV5Y
Towels:
Keter Brightwood 120 Gallon Resin Large Deck Box for Patio Garden Furniture, Outdoor Cushion Storage, Pool Accessories, and Toys, Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013478386/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YSMS4CZX6TSH3JPZ6Y27
Floats stay in the pool or on the side yard 😜
Coated wire?
You want bare copper to use a bonding wire. It's a ground wire, it will tarnish with age but clamps are used for the connections.
https://www.amazon.com/Cerrowire-050-2000B-50-Feet-Gauge-Copper/dp/B01LORGH9U
If you have a Compool valve there is a small check valve built in to the diverter. This check valve allows the water from the solar panels drain back into the pool when the solar shuts off. That check valve may be stuck open allowing water to flow to the panels when the valve is closed. This is the part you will need to replace. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HH1KAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_tbwUFbQMKH61W
Our company always installs a shut off valve after the solar valve in case the solar valve leaks.
I'd recommend that if you're up for it, just replace the motor. You can get the drop-in replacement motor for $170 on Amazon.
Last year mine needed replacement, so I did it myself. Took an hour or two, no big deal. Make sure you figure out which voltage it uses so you wire up the new one correctly.
If you can swing it I would also replace your impeller and whatever other o-rings or gaskets it has, since you have everything taken apart anyway -- might need to do some googling to figure out exactly which replacement kit to get.
use this and refill it with red food coloring, when that dye runs out. I had several leaks around my skimmers where the skimmer insert met the tile. Once identified any of the two part epoxies on amazon for underwater pool repair will plug the holes up in no time.
Check skimmers, light niches, tile line, main drain, return jets. Make sure the pumps are turned off. If you’ve already done all of this, then I’m not much help.
Good luck.
These are on the columns, I drilled them for larger bolts tho....
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MCV3NOP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_A7JdFbF8FXV8Y
Turnbuckes that are hooked onto them...
https://www.amazon.com/HEVERP-Stainless-Turnbuckle-Tension-Double/dp/B07W8Z6KPX
I've never actually seen a pool pole (or attachments) that were designed for anything other than the two pronged attachment style, but I did find this on Amazon. Is that what you need?
I also love the nice heavy duty Costco pool noodles, but our family gets equal use out of these awesome pool hammocks we got off of Amazon...
I can't really speak to closing the pool since I live in Texas. Keeping the water level in check was smart. If it gets too low it can cause damage to your pump. Bleach is sufficient to simply get the chlorine levels up a bit but is only short term. You will need the tablets for easy maintenance though. Buy in bulk and save.
Get that pool tester asap. I bought this one and it works great:
TAYLOR TECHNOLOGIES INC K-2006 TEST KIT COMP CHLORINE FAS-DPD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BGF7TI/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_M-Ryub1DEDSAY
I ended up buying the 2 oz bottle for testing cya since I kept having algae problems and had to SLAM multiple times. It was mostly due to my pump that I had to replace though and my lack of being home. Lesson learned, equipment fixed, an now my pool is crystal clear.
This CYA reducer actually works. I'd looked at the mixed reviews for a long time. In the end I thought it's $30 what do I have to lose. It worked perfectly. I did exactly what it said on the packet. From 90 to 60 ppm in a 16,000 gallon pool in a week or so.
I bought this: Robelle 2808B-02 Calcium Hardness Increaser for Swimming Pools, 16 Pounds https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CP5S590/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GX8YHKXEG5BB4Q3VAGPP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1, which has you pre-mix it in a bucket with pool water and pour in, which is way easier than having to brush the undissolved bits and makes it a 5 min job. No complaints!
Just in case - I am using this this summer AquaChek 7-Way Pool and Spa Water Test strips - 100 strip pack of swimming pool strips testing pH, Chlorine, Bromine, Hardness and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0083SMU7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_1V619ZHJMPVV8CTDAA6R?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I don't have these, but my pool has NO lights and I'm thinking about getting something like This. It uses water pressure, so no batteries, and you don't lose functionality. There are a few different ones, not sure which I'm going to get yet.
Pool solar controllers use these thermistors.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07Q8RHK7D/
You drill a hole somewhere in the plumbing and insert one of those and clamp it with the included strap. The downside of it being in the plumbing is you'll only get an accurate reading when the pump is running.
I've been working on this this year. I'm using node red, raspberry pi, an adc, fixed resistor, etc.
You create a voltage divider with the fixed resistor and thermistor and measure the voltage between them with the adc. With the beta coefficient for the specific thermistor you can use the steinhart-hart equation to calculate the temperature. You can also use a lookup table instead.
I've done this all from scratch as the existing controller was obsolete (10 or more years ago). So I have no experience with whatever hardware you currently have.
I haven't written anything up but I'm happy to help.
Sorry. Meant to add them. Both purchased on Amazon.
4 Channel Relay: MHCOZY WiFi Wireless Smart Self-Lock Momentary Interlock Relay Switch,DIY WiFi App Bluetooth Remote Garage Door Opener Controller (4ch)
40 Amp Relay/Timer: DEWENWILS Outdoor Smart Wi-Fi Outlet Box, Heavy Duty 40A 120-277 VAC 2HP Wireless Controller Timer Switch for Pool, Water Heater, Compatible with Smart Phone, Alexa, Google Assistant, UL Listed
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PP2KNNH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7VCZX1FX039NJQTF4KM2
Assuming this is a return and if so wouldn't something like this work? https://smile.amazon.com/Hayward-SP1419D-Opening-Hydrostream-Directional/dp/B004VTGNGG/ref=sr\_1\_6?crid=8W42WO32TW2C&dchild=1&keywords=pool+return+fittings&qid=1626099114&sprefix=pool+return%2B%2Caps%2C193&sr=8-6
Get yourself one of these. Fishing dead critters out of the skimmer went from about once a week to not at all. It actually works.
Frog Log Critter Saving Escape Ramp, blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GZPFJRS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6F0CQNQF65FBXWTZ06J8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It looks l lot like one of these Hayward diverter valves: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002EL3YM4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_23SK12WDGHQH6VAGGRNB. These are used to direct the flow of water from the pump either through the filter and into the pool, or divert the flow away from the system to waste. Water flows in the direction of the handle. See: https://youtu.be/S1f7XB2A7go. Don't start/run your pump with the handle facing away from the pump, as that would seal off the flow and could damage the pump. hope that helps!
Much easier, no guessing at color shade.
Directions:
I have what I feel is a good system going for this. A 120 gallon vinyl deck box dedicated to pool toys.
This is what I use for towels (I bought a pack of Beach towel clips and it works beautifully) and wet bathing suits, I’m sure it can be made much cheaper w pvc pipe.
Heavy Duty Vertical Poolside Pipe Towel Rack for Pool, Lake, RV, PVC Outdoor Pool Beach Towel Rack Shelf, Include 4 Small Towel Clips and Installation Hammer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08D222SPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VE8JXDXJBHK36Z8WC9ZF
Some A&B putty epoxy would work.
A+B Epoxy 9904K White A+B Rezolin Epoxy Kit, 14 oz. Container Size, Box Container Type, 1-(Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0030D2N22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_D5YF73S3K68P039F7AJ4
Intex 28635EG Krystal Clear Cartridge Filter Pump for Above Ground Pools, 1500 GPH Pump Flow Rate, 110-120V with GFCI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005QIYM6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WQYRFXF13B0S2Y7VDDKV
I got one of these LED bulbs to replace my old "regular" bulb and have been very happy with it:
https://smile.amazon.com/Bonbo-Swimming-Daylight-Traditional-Replacement/dp/B07S6R5F3F/
Direct replacement (just take out the old bulb, screw in this bulb). There is a lot more options out there if this isn't the right fit for your pool though.
I have the same exact issue and I believe the same filter. We purchased a new hex bolt to use and managed to tighten it enough that nothing leaks. We purchased this to use the next time we take the filter apart. Some Reviews said this fits but I haven’t tried it out yet so not 100% sure. Free return for 30 days on amazon so if you find out it doesn’t fit you can just send back.
Pentair 190003 Tension Control Clamp Kit Replacement Pool and Spa Filter , Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VU8SIQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NAN1PH6856ZFRTNNBV1W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I’m sold. I found #20 grade pool filter silica sand on Amazon. Is that the one?
FairmountSantrol AquaQuartz-50 Pool Filter 20-Grade Silica Sand 50 Pounds, White https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ5GXSK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_J0ZQRQFRTPR4785D7GWE
No, don't just blindly add bleach (chlorine) to your pool. You don't know if you have enough or too much. Use test strips or a better test kit to determine the chrlorine level and then adjust your quantity as needed.
Use the Pool Math app. Enter the capacity of your pool and the strength of the bleach or chlorine you are using as a one-time config in the pool settings. Then enter the current chlorine level from the test stripe and your target level daily. It will tell you how much bleach or chlorine to add.
Easy peasy.
Android:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.troublefreepool.poolmath
Apple:
https://apps.apple.com/us/app/pool-math-by-troublefreepool/id1228819359
https://www.amazon.com/mistcooling-Install-Easy-Dismantle-Chiller-Swimming/dp/B00E7HTWPQ or the like. Basically use the pump to circulate water into a sprinkler head that drops the water through the air into the pool. Works just like those misters you see at bars/restaurants. Running it at night works even better since the air temp is lower. I put some waterfalls in my pool for the same reason. They run at night to keep the water temp lower than it would be otherwise.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JYX4WPW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_R289P0F6FDT46QACRVAX
This is a good one or any of the ones that look similar to this that Leslie's and other pool supply chains carry. I always recommend spending a little more and getting the professional series or labeled products as they just stand up to wear much better than the others.
So if copper is the case the metal free isn't going to fix the stains it is just going to remove the metals from the water. Once the metals are removed you then need to treat the stains.
Something like this stain remover. But make sure it's for plaster pools and always do a test spot on the steps or something before adding to the whole pool.
Blue-White Flowmeter for 2 in. PVC Pipe, Horizontal Installation (1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YLLFXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MPMAXY488VV1TMKK64AH
It helps to have a flow meter. If you have a suction cleaner run it on high speed for several hours. If you have a pressure cleaner with a booster pump make sure to run a high speed in conjunction with the booster pump. I wouldn’t bother setting three stages. Two is enough, time is the important thing.
Banord 2 Pack 48FT LED Outdoor String Lights, Commercial Grade Porch Lights Heavy Duty Hanging Lights with 2W S14 Dimmable Shatterproof Bulbs for Backyard Patio Party https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JJX32HL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_184BSJ3H57SQC6K4987F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Same pipes as mine. I have my drain and skimmer always on, and this cleaning intake turned off. My intake has a spring loaded cover which maybe broke off on yours. Not a big deal and you can still use it probably. Or just use put your cleaning hose in the skimmer.
I think the only reason to turn the drain off is some cleaners get stuck on the drain.
This is the cleaner I use.
Drain. There is an enzyme out on the market that is supposed to eat CYA. It retails around 60$ per packet. You would probably need a couple of those. One catch is that the pool should have zero chlorine, so the chlorine does not kill the enzyme. If your in a warm climate this may not be an option.
Natural Chemistry NC07431 Natural Chem CYA Removal Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GVQR8LP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3T065EXCQ2VH80SG61PY
Yo big homie, get better strips. Aqua check 7 by hach.
I assume your pool is around 20k gallons. Shock it with 5lbs, instant chlor chlor and it will also raise your PH which looks about 6.6, then toss in like 8lbs of alk which will also raise your PH and stabilize it.
I think this is easiest for leaf removal - a Pool rake. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KCXXVPQ/. This brand (pro tuff) isn't the cheapest but lasts a long time and a great warranty. Don't opt for a bigger one unless you are built like a linebacker and enjoy the workout ;)
Bag-o-leaf type water hose vacs work, but I find them slower to use..
You got a Good test kit, plenty of reagents to test often and learn without fear of running out.
Your plan sound good. I'd prob lower pH to below 7.5 if needed, and start pouring in chlorine as you begin getting junk out. Post again when you start for more tips - but generally keep adding chlorine 2x+ a day, to keep the FC at 10 (or whatever your slam-tfp pool school term- level is) (the chlorine FC level drops as it's used up) and youll be surprised how quick it cleans up! Good luck
Get these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0083SMU7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gfu.FbA52E9EN They take 15 seconds, just a dip then comparison. Some people hate test strips but these are the only ones I trust. Follow that up with an in depth titration test once a week and you'll be fine.
Sounds just like my dad. He added a pool this year and made it shallow all over, he said he wanted to be able to walk around the whole pool with a cocktail in his hand lol.
As far as gifts I was looking at Floating Cabanas on Amazon.
Intex Canopy Island https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0193AFCPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_XWm4FbT3X05T1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Or if you wanted something smaller you can’t go wrong with the inflatable drink holders. You can even attach waterproof LED’s to the bottom of them!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002Z0NBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_V-r2Fb7DD7G8F
This should temporarily seal it, however may be difficult to get off after. As long as you don't put it too deep down into that plug then you should be fine and it'll be able to come off. That looks to be whats on all the other grease ports. Turn the system off, mix two equal parts and put over the hole giving it about 2 hours to cure and you should be good. Also will be good to have incase the grease port threads are in bad shape. They should sell it at home depot and most local pool suppliers if you want it faster than prime delivery.
As some other users have said, these valves are pretty old and could use replacing. However ive used valves this old with no problems and in a coastal town in Florida with alot of sun and salt. So start budgeting to replace them, but your prolly fine for a while longer. Also, make sure you only replace them with serviceable valves like the jandy ones that are there already. Don't use ball valves, ever.
I bought something similar on Amazon last year. It works awesome.
Skimeeze Pool Skimmer- Pool Net Skimmer Cleans Debris and Leaves for In-Ground and Above Ground Pools https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AO7JUK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Vaetzb6A706J8
There are portable pumps for exactly what you're doing. Here's one in Amazon, but your hardware store will probably have something, too. Wayne VIP50 1/2 HP Thermoplastic Portable Electric Water Removal Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQ6CU4/
Second the smart relay.. here's one on Amazon that is even advertised for pool pumps.. I've had good luck with the GE Zwave receptacles inside my house using a SmartThings hub.
I'm not sure about a liner that doesn't need coping. BUT.... I think you could probably replace with plastic coping from Amazon (or similar). https://www.amazon.com/Round-Coping-Strips-Ground-Swimming/dp/B07QDJR7BS/ref=asc_df_B07QDJR7BS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=344109104804&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9348050929135477533&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007343&hvtargid=pla-730681043943&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=67585364045&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=344109104804&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9348050929135477533&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007343&hvtargid=pla-730681043943
they make tabs with out cya
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H81OM08/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_6?smid=A3QCKZC0W0A2UN&psc=1
I put this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074KJ9BYS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
in our 25000 gallon Mountain Lake-style pool. It was a direct replacement for the Hayward bulb. It comes with a remote control, which is super cool, and has a variety of color-change options.
I highly recommend it.
> I just find myself having to clean the pool often, especially after windy days due to all the trees around the pool.
What is your expectation here? That chlorine will clean debris? It won’t. Are you testing chlorine? Are you maintaining 1-3 ppm? What is the CYA?
The IC40 is plenty for a 19K pool, you don’t need a second salt cell. I doubt it’s bad after 4 years either. IC40’s are well built. You can test whether it’s working by collecting water as it exits a jet, vs a second test of water away from a jet. Make sure the IC40 is on 100% but even then it’s off for like 6 or 8 minutes an hour. How to collect water direct from a jet? I use this
If you’re not making chlorine, or enough chlorine, to maintain a chlorine level that’s one thing, if your expectations are too high for magic debris removal that’s another.
It freezes hard where I live, so I am paranoid about the lines freezing and having an underground rupture.
If you have a mesh cover, drain the water low enough to compensate for winter snow melt. For me, that is 18-24 inches. Not sure what the norm is for a solid cover, but you definitely need it below the filter returns.
I blow out the lines with an air compressor and will even add a little RV anti-freeze to the lines and blow that out just to make sure.
Securely plug the water jets with pvc caps or whatever.
I'll also make sure there is no water in the skimmer (there shouldn't be at this point) and add a pool skimmer plug for added mental relief. Not sure if that's actually needed or not, but it makes me feel better.
I also remove the filter gauge and rinse visual glass thing (not sure if those are needed) and open all drains (definitely needed) on the filter.
My first year with a pool, I paid someone to close it and took notes and pictures.
Want less back spasms?
I replaced a bunch of tiles with MiracleBond.
I slapped this stuff on a tile and glued to the wall UNDER the waterline. It’s incredible stuff and it’s applied with a caulk gun, so relatively mess-free.
YES, I have a HASA Liquidator Liquidator and love it. Use it 12/mos out of the year in Houston. Shop around for prices, and I think they are about to release a new model so you may want to reach out to them if your decide to buy one.
That is what I have. It’s not too bright at all, nice even light. I can send you a picture tonight.
As a side note, you are able to change the bulb without removing the liner and with the pool full of water. It’s a sealed housing that’s attached with like 1-2 set screws and it should be able to be set on pool deck and changed. You also want to order a new gasket for the light with your bulb.
Ya, I probably wouldn't get the leaf thing if it was me. But maybe a bigger skimmer net so you can pull more stuff up at once. Something like this if you don't already have it.
And, ya you need to keep at least a foot on the bottom of the shallow end the more the better. You are trying to prevent wrinkles and the water pressure in your pool does this. One caveat however is that if you have a high water table in your yard and you drain the pool lower than what the ground water is the ground water will get under your liner and cause it to 'float' because there is now more water pressure outside the liner than inside. For most people this shouldn't be a problem though when lowering it by 1/3.
It can take quite a bit of time to clear up. I added hair nets over my slimmer basket and that helped trap some of the finer particulates.
Something like https://www.amazon.com/Disposable-Bouffant-Spun-bounded-Inches-Careoutfit/dp/B07KWBP9NS
There is this that makes scrubbing the walls a lot easier.
it’s attached to jet and really throws the water into the air for max “cooling” off time. I don’t think a waterfall would give the water much time to decrease the temp
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VU92KE/
Think 9011kidd was meaning this . It has a sloped plastic piece that when you brush down, the angle pushes the brush hard against the wall. Like a car spoiler but in water..
It really does reduce brushing effort. There are several other brudhes out there with similar ideas.
Btw, Nice cleanup job!
According to my Amazon order history, this is the exact product:
https://www.amazon.com/Splash-Pools-30700-Waterfall-Fountain/dp/B0026MTCOU
But OMG I’m sorry to say the price has gone way up since we bought ours. We got TWO of these for around $30 last summer. Not sure why so expensive now, it’s basically just a couple of PVC pipe fittings.
I've had this saved in my amazon cart for a while, mine is starting to disentegrate too.
Wow that is terrible. Had my own issues with home warranties previously (no longer a customer.)
Hopefully some experts come along with the perfect no digging solution!
Until then a few ideas...
For ~$50 you can get a 50' endoscope - waterproof inspection camera on a semirigid but flexible cable amazon there are many variations, some higher resolution, i just picked one with good ratings as an example. ive used a 16' version that worked surprisingly well (untill accidentally stepped on) you might have to fill the hose w water to aid feeding the cam...but this would let you look and see how far it goes.
I once used an old pool hose for a project, and didnt cut all the way through. (ie start a cut between two ridges and pull) Upon pulling it separated along the spiral ridges and seemed like it would of kept pulling forever without breaking. This would (possibly) remove it without digging. But could leave you with an inaccessible remainder if it broke. You could try it on one of the left over segments to see how it works if you still have them.
Really crazy, hope you can get this out.
Honestly id probably use the endoscope to see how far it goes. Then get what i could out and repipe to see if it really effects flow enough to matter. At least i would before major digging and expense.
Edit use unions if that valve sits so close to the ground as it looks so you can dissasemble if needed.
The reason why they say not to use an extension cord is mostly because of the possible voltage drop which will increase the current draw and cause possible overheating of the cord. If you use a HIGH QUALITY extension cord with a minimum 12 AWG wiring - 10 AWG would be better (most extension cords are 14 to 16 AWG), and you ensure you have a good connection to ground you should be OK. Check your ground connection throughout the year with an outlet tester. The alternate solution would be to rent a trencher and run an outlet out to where you want to install your pool. Using something like this http://www.amazon.com/Arlington-Industries-GP19B-1-Gard-N-Post-Landscape/dp/B002W6ZP0K (they have different lengths and colors) is a very easy way to do this.
Why not go for the newer swimclear filters? They look MUCH better. http://www.amazon.com/Hayward-SwimClear-C200S-Element-Cartridge/dp/B00SO7UXQW
Yes I know it's not on amazon yet but that doesn't mean you can't get it.
Also if I were you I'd go bigger especially if you don't like cleaning the filters. Larger filter = lower pressure and less cleaning.
I just started using this: http://www.amazon.com/Pool-Patrol-PA-30-Alarm/dp/B0037Z7NF0
Pro: you can adjust the sensitivity level
Con: can be easily triggered and can get tangled up in your pool cleaner if you have the kind that climbs up the sides of the pool.
As a father of two with a pool this scares the s*it out of me. Ive looked at the alarms that sense the water and it just seems to me it only takes the one time for it to not be reactivated for something to happen. Something like this seems safer. When you do find a solution post in here as it will surely help others.
Safety Turtle Child Immersion Pool/Water Alarm Kit - 2 Blue Wristbands https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055PCGR0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_2q4wvb049T80B
No prob, it's really not to difficult, plenty of YouTube videos, you'll need a torx bit set/screwdriver to access the electrical, some people can do it with a small flat head. I'd recommend Aladdin for the seal kit, but generic works fine in this case. Just remember, the impeller screw is reverse threaded, when re-installing the shaft seal try to avoid getting dirt or oils from your fingers on the white porcelain part, it'll deteriorate faster, and a bead of silicon around the seal plate gasket will help hold it in place when sliding the motor back on. Cheers!
https://www.amazon.com/TacParts-Teflon-Lubricant-Swimming-Gasket/dp/B01MDUYET2/ref=asc_df_B01MDUYET2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312111517626&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6728739468499686845&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&... they sell small bottles and fyi it’s hard to get off your hands so wear gloves
I got waterproof socks and gloves this year and they're amazing. I wear a pair of normal socks underneath my waterproof ones.. they get a bit sweaty but it's so much better than wet feet.
SuMade socks on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/SuMade-Waterproof-Coolmax-Breathable-Cushioned/dp/B08KW7CNR8/ref=asc_df_B08KW7CNR8
It's called a flush mount return fitting.... It's hard to tell what color it is in the picture.... Here is an Amazon link to a white one.
On your skimmer basket. It catches all the pollen, palm hairs and other stuff that would make it thru the skimmer basket and the pump basket to get caught on your filter. I do have to hose them off once or twice a week but its easier than cleaning filters.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XS63TWJ?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
Here’s the channels I used
Aluminum LED Channel - for led... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B072MGVK9F
Lights - Kasa Smart LED Light Strip, 50... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B09QBD5J7S
I used a clear silicone to seal up the joins and ends. The lights are waterproof but figured I’d protect them from the elements as best I could.
You're going to have to go in. The pressure will make anything you put on the outside fail.
I used Gorilla Waterproof Patch and seal tape (on the inside) on my old intex pool and those patches held up for years.
https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Waterproof-Patch-Seal-Black/dp/B097811BTB
If you have a 400k btu the replacement cost is going to be $4-5k. Unless you're Richie Rich, I would first replace the blower part number FDXLBWR1930 and the blower vac switch part number FDXLBVS1930 for2-300 plus labor unless you can do it. Parts off, parts on.
I am guessing at your model number. Check it out and verify with the hayward parts guide before you buy anything.
Supper delayed. This is what I was referencing. I ended up using a shop vac this year because I have not patience.
Wow - so many comments and (I'm sorry) but so many of them bad.
Your pool water chemistry isn't as bad as some may want you to think. Does it need to be treated? Sure. Do you need to drain your pool? Heavens no!
Yes, your phosphates are high. Treat for high phosphates before doing anything else. Treat with a product called Phos Remove. This is the best I've found. Treat according to the directions on the label. Then I would ask myself, why are my phosphates so high? It's good if you understand what may be causing this to happen. There is a reason! Try to figure out why.
Also, your pH is a little high. Are you using liquid chlorine? I would add a little acid to bring down your pH to around 7.2.
If this is a gunite pool, I would add a little calcium to get your CH up to around 300.
Everything else looks fine. I hope this helps!
I got one of these two years ago and it works great and easy to adjust. No Leak-By so far either.
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Yes, buy the original deal - not the knockoff. Install it correctly. Huh? Yes, there's a little arrow on one end that points in the direction of the water flow - towards the Polaris cleaner - away from the pump. I like to make sure the feedhose is cut off squarely. Then add a little Magic Lube to each end of the swivel to help it go on easier. Replace with two new Polaris nuts. Old nuts or knockoff nuts split easily and cause the swivel to leak. Also, take a few minutes to make sure the swivels and floats are in the right locations, that the floats aren't waterlogged, etc. Make sure the feedhose isn't stiff (they get stiff with age). Make sure it's of the right length. Make sure the backup gear is installed correctly and is in good working condition. And of course make sure the Polaris is in good working condition (tires, gears, bearings, bag, bag retainer, tail whip, etc). All of that can be checked in a few minutes time and save headaches down the road! Good luck!
Your pool water needs to be ‘balanced’. This means your salinity level needs to be within range for your salt chlorine generator. Typically between 2900 and 3400ppm. If you suspect your salinity is over “7000”, you need to do something to current it. First, I would buy a digital salinity tester and I would test my actual salinity. “Stop using test strips.” Buy yourself a real pool water test kit like a Taylor K-2005. And read the little booklet that comes with it. Read it - from cover-to-cover! If your pool water is really 7300ppm salinity, you need to partially drain and refill until you get it within normal limits - period. Do this - repeatedly - until you get it right. Okay? With salinity that high, your water is totally saturated with salt. Your total dissolved solids are off the chart. There’s no ‘room’ left in your pool water for anything like chemicals that are needed to balance your pool water. So get your salinity down. Then balance your pool water. This means check your free chlorine, pH, total alkalinity and stabilizer. And then learn how to dose your pool properly. There’s no swimming allowed until you get your pool’s water chemistry balanced - never. Okay? Good, now go do what I said. You want to be responsible pool owner who keeps his pool safe for himself and for his family and guests - always. Thank you.
I'll try to explain what I do as best as I can. I have this extension device I use on my own pool.
I take a 2' stick of PVC and glue a 1.5" (or 2" depending on your pool skimmer) threaded male adapter to the bottom end. I also glue a SPX1082ZE to the top end of the stick - and use this part specifically because I have more luck with the wider neck at the top with many blower hoses. Use hose clamp on hose-neck connection if necessary (likely).
Take this device and screw the threaded male adapter into the bottom of your skimmer.
At your filter, close the main drain valve. Set the filter to recirculate. Blow each return line out individually. Create a bit of air pressure and "burp" individual lines to get rid of excess water if possible.
Set filter to closed and open main drain valve to airlock the main drain. May not work if blower power too weak. Also may take two people to close drain valve and not burn out motor at the same time.
You could use the patio paver rods instead around the very edge of your concrete at the grass. They are pricey though.
I used clamp multi meter to measure the amps for the speed I run it at. Any values provided by manual/spec will be estimates so it's better to check your usage directly. My motor for my pool elevation uses 1.5kW/day = 45kW/month ~ $5/month. Cheap $20 clamp multimetere will work fine for this.
There are standard sized for how pump attaches to impeller part, you can call inyopools or one of the pool websites and tell them what you currently have and they can suggest the exact model you need.
If all else fails, I would try 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive. Apply liberally to the broken cap. Let it cure fully. Do not get it on 'anything else' but the broken cap.
Hi DTT. Yes, that's perfectly normal for an older pool. Sooner or later it will probably need to be resurfaced. If everything looks good otherwise, I would just keep a watch on it. You may be able to go for several years before resurfacing. In the meantime, you might be on the look out for a good pool company to do your resurfacing. Prices are always trending up - right? So it might be worth considering ... if you should have this done sooner vs. later.
BTW, this can happen prematurely in pools if the Calcium Hardness hasn't been properly maintained. If that's the case, there's nothing I know of that anyone can do to reverse it now.
I have several pools that I take care of that have this same condition. In all but one, the water is perfectly clear. Every now and then, I'll find a small handful of that blue-colored sand in the Polaris bag. In one pool, the water sometimes appear a little bit cloudy after the Polaris has run around the bottom, but eventually it clears up.
You may also want to keep a close eye out for light colored green algae starting to form on the bottom and the upper sides - during warm weather of course. The increased porosity of the pool surface due to the shedding material seems to provide a perfect place for algae to start to form. Scrubbing periodically with a small stainless pool brush usually knocks out any emerging algae. When I do see a little algae, I also step up the chlorine a bit for several weeks and I make sure I'm using a good quality algaecide such as No Mor Problems by United Chemical. Amazon's price is a little high right now. If I shop around, I can sometimes get it for around $15/qt.
Good luck and enjoy your pool!
I went near insane looking at reviews of various vacuum head options. It seems like people have such strong reviews one way or another that it was a bit confusing trying to figure out what actually worked. I ended up buying this exact model:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IT2W1DK
No complaints. It works quite well although I only use it sparingly after a storm - I'm not using it more than 1x a month (have a robot that does 98% of the cleaning).
I guess I'm just old school, but for suction, I recommend a Hayward Navigator for small to medium sized pools without a lot of big debris like leaves. They're very cost effective and they just work. They require very little maintenance. And they literally run for "years" with hardly any problems at all unless they try to suck up something like a tennis ball. Empty the canister every once in a while as needed. Parts are readily available for all models. The hose is virtually indestructible as is the canister. Lube the cannister O-ring once or twice a year.
Same for pressure cleaners. I recommend a Polaris 280 - a defacto standard in my area. Runs forever with hardly any problems. Very cost effective and they just work. Parts are available anywhere. Empty the bag once a week as needed and that's about all she needs. I carry most of the parts needed on my truck.
Yes, flocculant or drop-out binds suspended particles together making them heavier than the surrounding water so they sink to the bottom so they can be vacuumed to waste.
Filtering the floc will just run it through your sand filter where it will eventually stop up you filter and the small particles that you were hoping to catch will end up back in your pool water. That's why you vacuum to 'waste' anytime you vacuum after an algae bloom ... to prevent the floc'd algae from re-entering the pool water.
Sand filters only catch particles 0.3 to 0.5mm in size.
Adding floc to a pool with suspended particles "will" magically make cloudy water clear if applied correctly.
It's been my experience that if the pool water does in fact have suspended particles and it doesn't turn clear after floc'ing, then it's usually because:
A poor quality floc was used. I like to use: ProTeam Superfloc Use the entire bottle, for pools up to 40,000 gals.
Not enough floc was used for the number of gallons of water in the pool
The pool water chemistry wasn't balanced prior to adding the floc (i.e. the pH was too high)
The pool wasn't brushed down before adding the floc
The floc was added incorrectly - like it never became fully diluted in the water
The pool was not allowed to rest long enough after adding and diluting the floc in the pool water
The floc'd pool water was disturbed while it was resting
There's some other anomaly - like the water is too cold.
I have no experience with this style switch but it looks like something interesting to have for certain applications. It looks like a replacement receiver can be bought on Amazon. And a replacement remote can be bought there as well. At my apartment complex, we just have our pool light on a dedicated Intermatic timer so it comes on at sundown and goes off at midnight. I guess that's not practical in a residential setting, but it's nice to have all of the pool lights come on (lights in the water and lights on deck) each night. Makes the entire pool look very inviting. Good luck!