What version of windows are you on? How are you attempting to uninstall it? Try Revo Uninstaller and use the advanced clean up after it's uninstalled it. If you get the same error then just locate all the files that it may have written to the system and delete them. Use CCleaner clean function and it's registry fix, that should scrub any incomplete installation. Get back to me if the problem persists.
If you get a budget wheel, make sure it has force feedback. There's no point in a wheel if it doesn't have FFB.
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Racing-PlayStation4-PlayStation3-playstation-2/dp/B014US02ZAI've been using this Thrustmaster T150 for almost 4 years of fairly vigorous and regular rallying, and while worn, it's still kicking. For US$200 there aren't many cheaper options that aren't used and/or crap.
I HIGHLY recommend a FFB wheel to take the next step into Simrallying. It'll be an eye opener in a way far bigger than switching to bonnet cams after you get comfortable with it (which shouldn't take long).
Here's a collection with a bunch of sounds from the RSRBR mod, I don't think there is an "officially recommended" sound for each particular mod car, so you will have to experiment a bit and find sounds that you like. https://uloz.to/!F3mHTu1pk/rbr-rsrbr-2015-car-sound-rar If you install RSRBR you can copy the audio directory to another installation of RBR which will also give you files to change effects like transmission and turbo blowoff. The wiki page for installing RBRTM mod has some hints in the bottom how to get started with modding sounds.
yeah, I think you can use UCR to take all your multiple input devices and run all their inputs into one master virtual device that the game might pick up. I haven't personally tried it though.
The controller compatibility issues maybe could be worked around with the use of vJoy + UJR
http://evilc.com/joomla/articles/9-code/autohotkey/1-ujr-universal-joystick-remapper
or XBox360CE
For this one, or other titles.
The parts are:
- Sim-Lab GT1 EVO sim racing cockpit
- Next Level Racing Elite ERS1 racing seat
- Simagic Alpha mini wheelbase with GT1-R wheel
- Thrustmaster LCM pedal set (Load cell)
- Thrustmaster TH8A shifter
- Ricmotec shifter mods:
- Sequential mod
- Short shift plate mod
- realistic shifter feel mod
- Handbrake: EasyHomie This is a very generic design that you see everywhere in slightly different configurations. The one I have I would call decent for the price and I am happy with it, but obviously you can only expect so much for a 100.- handbrake.
Have you tried putting the Epic Games launcher in offline mode?
If that doesn't work, then yeah maybe pirating is your best bet. I pirated WRC 8 before I bought it, and the pirated version I had definitely didn't require an internet connection, though obviously you give up access to some features.
Yes VDRMinstaller would still be needed. Unless you use the track pack from here: https://mega.nz/#F!sBkB2YRL!zfp8y8HC5-bKQyxPYRa88Q that includes all the "track fixes" or install them manually. My Car Manager was never intended to manage and install tracks. It is just a simple way to replace the 8 cars in the game with NGP ones.
> It really bothers me that cockpit view is unusable (which greatly lessens my immersion), because of graphical artifacts popping up on windshield with vsync off (and it had to be off, because otherwise I get huge input lag). I somehow endured few hours of restarting stage every time the windshield gets slightly damaged, but when I had to drive during night it was impossible to see anything through glitched reflections.
yeah idk I can't speak for any of that. I tend to use the plain road cam in rally games.
>but after 6 hours I would expect to not have to restart every single event at least 5 times before putting out a somewhat clean run. Idk, maybe I'm bad but I just can't enjoy it.
if you still have the game, try either the bonnet cam or the road cam. I find them so much easier than the in-cockpit views
>I would maybe give it few more hours of playtime, but I've heard it doesn't support multiple input devices, so I can't play it at all anymore.
maybe try piping all of your hardware into a virtual joystick using UCR?
Have you enabled the setting in ds4windows for exclusive mode?
Otherwise your pc will see both the DS4 and emulated Xbox 360 controllers - which might confuse any games (like RBR) or in this case XInput Plus.
Also what version of DS4Windows are you using?
The original developer abandoned it and it was taken up by someone else who has continued to update it since.
This is the current up to date version: https://github.com/Ryochan7/DS4Windows/releases
You gotta use the "Hide DS4 Controller", also use it before launching anything. Since DS4Windws emulates a 360 controller your PC sees 2 controllers, the DS4 and a 360 controller. Some games can see both controllers and take the input from both.
Also make sure you are using the actual current version of DS4Windows https://github.com/Ryochan7/DS4Windows/releases
I’m just using a TH8A as a handbrake, but that comes with a built-in table mount clamp size I was able to clamp it to the metal bracket attaching the seat arm strap to the frame.
Maybe someone sells a clamp like that with adapter bolts online? Or maybe you just get a traditional small clamp or two and use them to ghettoclamp it the same way?
Like this for example. Or this if you know someone with a 3D printer.
You use autohotkey + vJoy. I knew about the FreePIE + vJoy solution. Here is a script made by the creator of Live for Speed himself:
I use a FreePIE script to steer with a joystick and throttle/brake/handbrake with a xbox controller. Maybe mouse is better then joystick for steering (I've tried it, but found it too difficult. After your post I will give it another go), in that case, mouse + pad (for analog pedals) may be the ultimate cheap setup. I find steering with the pad itself too imprecise, but you definitely want the analog "pedals" the pad gives you.
Hi, thanks for that post. I was about to buy the Thrustmaster T300 RS GT Edition (Steering Wheel + 3 Pedal Set, Force Feedback, 270° - 1080°, Eco-System PS4 / PS3 / PC) for 345€. https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Thrustmaster-Steering-Wheel-Pedal-Feedback/dp/B01HRYFODO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=thurstmadtet+t300&qid=1606591298&sr=8-1 What are the differences between those 2 models? Just the wheel? Not the pedals? Wanna buy it to play WRC9 on PS5. Which one would you recommend?
I recently got a thrustmaster TMX pro off of amazon for $250. Supposedly the TMX pro is the thrustmaster equivalent to the g29/g920. I have never used the g29/g920 so I cant compare but its said that the pedals that come with the TMX pro are better and the thrustmaster ecosystem is better when compared to logitech.
That being said, the TMX pro has more plastic on the wheel compared to the logitech wheels. Overall I'm happy with the thrustmaster TMX pro as a first wheel. FFB feels nice, paddle shifters feel solid and click nicely, and the pedals are solid.
The G27 is on sale for like 190$ on Amazon. Link