What are
/r/AnycubicPhoton's
favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/AnycubicPhoton:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/AnycubicPhoton:
Cults.
PrusaSlicer
Gofile.io
meshmixer
Banggood
Autodesk Tinkercad
Youmagine
The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/AnycubicPhoton:
Spectrum Analyzer
Physics Toolbox Sensor Suite
The most popular VPNs mentioned in /r/AnycubicPhoton:
The most popular reviews in /r/AnycubicPhoton:
The 3dclub fep on amazon is almost as good a deal, but if you have prime in the USA it’s probably more convenient.
FEP Film for UV 3D Printers | 0.05mm Thick | 4-Sheets | 280mm x 200mm Per Sheet | HD Optical Grade | Available in 3 Thicknesses https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GRMZY3M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_X5bcEbYA54W01
Usb rechargeable charcoal filters. They have fans inside of them and reduce the odor by a huge a mount. I can barely smell the resin when I use them.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B086277CNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7C5gFbT68BEMA
ABS fumes and photoresin fumes are two different beasts.
Never run a photon without adequate ventilation or a filter.
I built something like this, and it works great: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SY8JiDXpMxY
I'm a bit scared still about posting links in here, every group has their own thoughts and considerations about it x) Take a look, I posted some WIP for free, maybe that works for you: https://cults3d.com/es/usuarios/BKGcode
Import the stl into Meshmixer, click the "Select" tool, then press [ctrl]+[a] to select all faces. Then in the menu that appears, hover over "Edit...", then click "Flip Normals".
You can then click "Export" in the tools menu to save the repaired file.
Fucking same. Thought it was gonna be cool but it has been useless. Glad yours has found a second life.
Im using micron filters and a silicone funnel. Strainer Cone Silicone Funnel Filter Tip Cone Shaped Fine Nylon Mesh Funnel W/Hooks Disposable (100pcs with 1pcs Silicone Funnel Filter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SJD2D9H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_E39NJANCEEFSS4D1GS2H?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
if you use Amazon, search for UV light strip. I think anything close to 400nm wavelength works fine.
Sovol 3D Printer Resin Vat Anodized Aluminium with FEP Film and Steel Ring Preinstalled, Durable Metal Frame Resin Tank with Double Silicone Covers for ELEGOO Mars ANYCUBIC Photon 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CJZ711T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9JEHMHXBG14YBW4J3EM4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'm also interested in this.
I print a lot of lithographs for a couple projects I worked on for holiday stuff, and we experimented with a number of spray on (both airbrush and rattlecan) vanishes and nothing works. I have multiple Vallejo varnishes, Krylons, and even tried some "Archival" sprays for oil painting finishing, and nothing worked great.
I will say, the best results i got, even though they weren't perfect were from this product: Krylon Archival UV
Its not gonna be perfect, but it did considerably slow the yellowing. I hope we get some great answers in here that make this stuff look bad, but i tried a number of kinds :(
Yes, still have it - I've run about 1.5L of resin through it, just bought another couple of litres and am starting to think about changing the original FEP sheet out.
My only real complaint is with levelling. It's a bit of a hassle, not because it's hard, per se, it's just that you need to be really precise (you're doing ultra thin layers, after all) and it's easy to get a liiiitle out of whack. Then again, it's pretty much a one-time thing, so it's a marginal complaint in the grand scheme of things. I found it helps to run a piece of paper in each corner to check that they feel pretty much the same; it's easy for one corner to be a little loose. Once I figured that out, I spent maybe 15 - 20 minutes levelling (hold plate down, tighten, check... nope, still not even; loosen, repeat) and haven't touched it since.
As for the S... I think the improved LED is probably the biggest upgrade, since it should reduce cure times and will hopefully produce slightly better prints across the whole platform. That said, I don't know that I'd spend the money to upgrade from my original unit - I've never had any issues with Z wobble and would rather see linear rails if to improve the kinematics anyway. I'd actually be tempted to keep an eye out for sales on the base Photon - Amazon has done a few flash sales lately (LOL, they're actually doing one now!) for $370 or so, and at that price, I don't think the S is worth the premium.
https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Assembled-Innovation-Off-line-Printing/dp/B078N2TSYS
Plastic razors: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07Y9H5969/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
They work fantastic, and no worrying about damaging the build plate!
Haha, "sir." I'm getting old in the internet too!
Gave it a quick search and it looks like there's one on Cults if you don't mind paying for it. I think it's worth the price of a cup of coffee but I don't blame you if you think otherwise.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/anycubic-photon-mono-fep-film-frame
Give it a bit, maybe someone else has had better luck finding a free alternative.
Using PrusaSlicer (free slicer program https://www.prusa3d.com/prusaslicer/) you can have the program optimize the orientation of a model and then have it auto build the supports. I've been using it to optimize, then auto generate between 70-80% supports before exporting to Chitubox to slice. Sometimes you need to tweak it a bit, but I've had very few failures using that method.
I run into this sort of left over every so often when a print just doesn't want to stick to the build plate, usually from things I try and print flat like miniature bases. I use plastic razor blades for removing stickers or vinyl to get them off, haven't damaged my film yet.
I use ones like this: https://www.amazon.com/Bowerful-25pcs-Pre-soldered-Micro-Muti-Resistor/dp/B07QNRHNKM/
They're very, very small and can fit into drain holes easier than standard 3mm "bulb" type LEDs. Only issue is that I have no way of verifying the actual spectrum output. The ones I have do cure resin, but may have a lower general wavelength (380-395nm) than the ideal 405nm used in 3d printer resin. Or they might be 405nm on the nose and fine. The wavelength for the uv type isn't stated on the amazon listing or the packaging 🤷♂️
Theres also this screen. It mentions having the adapter, but nothing on compatibility with any printers.
Three distinct properties. Black. Why does it have to be black? That's a big limitation.
https://www.amazon.com/LANON-Chemical-Resistant-Non-slip-Reusable/dp/B07ZRM6SZN/
Going heavy duty means losing a lot of dexterity, but it's black, and lined, and won't rip, and it's black. If you didn't care about color, you could have this and many more.
https://www.amazon.com/Tusko-Products-Cleaning-Household-Dishwashing/dp/B01HC1UQJE/
There’s ones on Etsy that have a screen protector built in but if you just want a gasket this is what I got
Mach5ive Stick On Gasket for 3D Resin Printers - Universal Protection from Resin Spill, Internal, LCD, FEP Film - Resin Resistant - Portable Protection - 4.7" W x 7" L [ 3-Pack ] (6 Inch Screen) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0921H1MFJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WP18ZNCHQCZK5RESXY43?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
In addition to what's already been said, use flush clippers on supports if they don't come off easily. Don't just pull them out.
Like these : Xuron - Xuron - 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter - 170-II https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_26B2DCH0FBPB1T1B6P7K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
get a plastic razor like this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076BBW1WM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I wouldn't bother with the plastic ones, Elegoo has a "2x metal vat pack" on amazon that's only a bit more expensive than the plastic ones. I've been using them with my OG Photon and the only difference is that the FEP retainer piece on them is made of steel that gets attracted to the Photon's door latch magnet a little when putting them in. They even have plastic lids for storage which are a bit flimsy, but they're something.
The replacement screen includes that top glass layer. That entire thin black rectangle is what you'll get with a replacement. Unless you broke something underneath that thin black rectangle you should be ok.
If you have trouble finding an official anycubic screen you can also use the ones designed for the Elegoo Mars. They come with a little 90 degree cable adapter that makes it fit the Photon S. I've used these ones for my Photon S. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X586JHK
I’m in the same boat - I don’t think most of the available solutions work since the Mono doesn’t really have a vent fan (only a LCD cooling fan I believe). I ended up getting this air purifier MOOKA Air Purifier for Home,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L5M6NNJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share that seems to work well so far for keeping the fumes controlled while printing. Still need to open a window and turn on a fan when I lift the lid though.
I bought one of these as a backup and ended up buying more to make resin swaps easier. Highly recommended
You can ask as many questions as you'd like, an I'll answer as many as I know too. :D
Here is the link to the vacuum I'm using:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W8ZU5FK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
On my Photon S, I just replaced my screen with this one over the weekend (link chopped up so this post doesn't get hidden)
https://w ww.amazon. com/gp/product/B07X586JHK/
Subjectively, prints seem much crisper and sharper - perhaps because the glass is thinner, so the screen is closer to the resin.
On some versions of the Photon, the screen's ribbon cable has a 90-degree bend at the end; this bend isn't present in most replacement screens. The screen I bought comes with an angled adapter and a straight ribbon cable.
I'm very satisfied with this replacement.
Yep! I used this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07573FKSG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I actually don't think the thermometer is necessary because this heater shuts off automatically at ~100f.
Alright. Check cables, re update firmware, and run detection again (after a power cycle). If it still does this, send a pic to support.
If money isn’t a huge issue, you can skip the first step and replace the screen yourself. I got my most recent screen on Amazon.
Support will take about 3-4 weeks to fully get through because of the time delay and shipping speeds.
Hopefully it resolves with an update, but if not, Amazon prime is nice. FYI, LCD screens are considered consumables so you’ll have to replace them yourself at some point. They’ll definitely shop you one for free, but it’s nice to have a backup.
ANYCUBIC Photon S LCD 3D Printer VR Projector Stable Light Curing Display 5.5" 2560x1440 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RWM4TTD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_KwFRFbZ2BTSTT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
AFAIK, the Anycubic Photon is just a rebranded ChiTu D series board. Both firmwares (DLP Controller & display FPGA) + user manual are at http://www.cbd-3d.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5580.
Also, I don't know if there is anything attached to the port in the Anycubic Photon, but there seems to be a adapter for some sort of wifi module (look at the user manual)
EDIT: Found the wifi module on amazon
They sell them on amazon, something I googled at random https://www.amazon.com/TCP-Global-Strainers-Micron-Filter/dp/B000PA09V0
The goal is the same to filter out any tiny bits of hardened goo. So any fine strainer is likely okay to use.
What size was the new USB you used? I had a similair problem and it turned out the USB needed to be 4gb or smaller. These worked for me.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LW1FVE2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q2RR6SC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I had a similar thing happen. I bought this one and needed to do a lot of toubleshooting to fix it because the wires don't match up to the Photon board and it will seize the motor. You'll need to swap the green and red wires on the motor side. Feel free to DM me and I can send you pictures of the swap.
I use these model snippers. These ones are cheap and good enough but there are other really nice and expensive options. After snipping them off just higher than the model I then use an exacto knife or file to shave it down.
I use a 256 GB flash drive.
The only issues I've had was making it formatted correctly since windows is now a little bitch and won't right click format a drive that big (Max it would do was 32GB as FAT32).
Decided to use a 3rd party program to do it.
EDIT: I do remember when i first got it I couldn't get an older USB to work. The USBs that did work were all 2.0+
EDIT 2: I went got another new 256GB USB. Put a file and tested. It didn't work, this one is a 3.1 USB. Checking formats now.
EDIT 3 FINAL: The other 256GB USB is 3.0 and it works. Microcenter 256GB 3.0
The 256GB 3.1 doesn't work, even when formated with same 3rd party program as the other. DOESN'T WORK: SAMSUNG 256GB 3.1
Yeah I don't think either would work well. You need a lube/grease. Mine used to make the same noise and I tried "Remington oil" didn't work. I got this and haven't heard that sound in months. PTFE Grease
Elegoo has water-washable resins in translucent yellow, green, red, and blue.
I just had to recently replace mine. It's on Amazon. Depends on the board. They changed the board and didn't tell anyone. Does your fan have the screw on connector or JST connector? If it's the new JST type here is the link. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B086MQD3DF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lT7yFbNQJHQJ2
Same here. Most even filter the electric so you’re electronics will last longer. My ups is really a solar charger. As long as I leave it plugged in, it acts like a UPS and offers about 3 hours (math would have to verify based on the 346wh battery). It has saved about 4 of my long prints. I’m using this because I like it for other things when not attached to the printer like making my corded tools cordless like my Dremel. Extends my laptop to like 20 hours. Plus it has the car jumper feature. The one I own is a Chafon 346wh which you might find on eBay, Amazon only has the 288wh version. But this is nearly the same :
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085HPNVQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_awjiFb5B8VQ9K
I bought reusable gloves from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GTST6VF
often I still wear a nitrile disposable on the right hand if I'm going to remove supports as the reusable ones are a little thick.
No worries it is actually pretty easy. I bought a Chitu screen for about 50 USD:
I get that when my alcohol wash is old and the dissolved resin collects on the models during the wash. I frequently dun my alcohol through a mesh cone filter, then a coffee filter. then I put it in 1 liter seltzer bottles and either put it outside to let the suns UV cure the resin particles and filter again with a last filter through an old britta pitcher or put the bottles in the wash and cure without the turntable and cure for an hour before filtering. I sometimes use the uv lights in my grow tent if im currently not growing anything.
You should be able (with time and effort) to push them to the edge with a plastic scraper (not metal). Use something with a little flex - you just gradually push the bubbles to the edge. Anyone that's ever applied a window coating or those terrible car window tints has this problem. Just takes patience. I have to do it every time I put on a new protector.
One caveat... if there is some dust or particulate under the film, the bubble won't move - its caused by the dust/particulate in that case, not just air.
They have it in germany too: https://www.amazon.de/Sovol-FEP-Folie-Vorinstallierter-Metallrahmen-Silikonabdeckungen/dp/B08CKJF4XN
Thanks for the tipp, i too tried to figure out how to solve the issue of overpriced anycubic FEPs/Vats
I just bought the Sovol metal one from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CJZ711T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you get this one they sell 5 packs of replacement FEP for $20 but also supports any normal FEP if you want to punch your own holes. I decided to get it after recommendation on other post in this group. Works well and fit's my Mono 4k.
It looks like many of the supports failed? Or did you remove them for the picture? You might want to use some lubricant on the FEP
This is what I am using presto 306338 PTFE-Spray 400 ml https://www.amazon.de/dp/B007VMGD7E?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Why is the scraper missing an edge? Sharp edges are never good on the FEP! Yes this can affect your prints. What can happen is that the grip if the cured resin is to strong on the FEP hence it will rip the layers of which will lead to failed prints. Though just go with it until that happens as long as you didnt poke any holes you are fine. If you did replace the FEP but not the VAT. The FEP is mean to be replaced after a while anyway, you get like 5 of then for ~20€. All you need is an appropriate screw driver (not the standard cross) just check the screws on the bottom of them VAT.
Two more comments: 1: Use a lubricant like this one here presto 306338 PTFE-Spray 400 ml https://www.amazon.de/dp/B007VMGD7E?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
2: do NOT use the scraper on the FEP! Instead take an old stronger support, push it down on the FEP and turn on the UV light for like 50 seconds. After that carefully pull out the sheet of cured resin. This wastes some resin but it's not that much after all and you peel of all remains on the FEP including all pieces that might have broken off during the print and sunkt to the bottom. Be careful to always check for them, it is easy to ruin your screen my missing one!
I have a Chitu one (from Amazon) on my M3, well, two actually, I bought a second build plate as well. They work great, but yes, I did need to print a spacer, 2.5mm I think it was.
Here's the one I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BJF5KMXX
I use a warm damp sponge, let it sit for about 15 minutes and then use a plastic scrapper like this one to clean it off. Takes a little time and patience but it has not failed me yet.
Pro tip: get yourself a silicone stir stick and a silicone 'brush' and you can stir resin and/or sweep for fails with zero fear of scratching your FEP. The silicone brush is also great for cleaning the FEP without using towels - think of it like a wiper squeegee. Wipes haven't touched my vat in months.
Ones like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Sticks-Brushes-Mixing-Tumblers/dp/B07Z3R4R4B/
As far as wash/cure, I have a dollar store bucket and cheap UV light and it works great.
It's 100% temperature related. Resin doesn't like to get cold. It needs to stay within its labeled temperature range.
Super easy fix, just grab a reptile tank heater and slap it in/on your printer. They usually have adhesive backing so you don't even need to put it inside of your printer, on the outside can work fine.
https://www.amazon.com/BN-LINK-Heating-Electric-Waterproof-Reptiles/dp/B08C98KNWR
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09BZ45FL2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It required the vat to be spaced to avoid the FET being bent by the glass, so a good protective film with a bit more work for questionable gains.
I'm pretty sure the Elegoo Mars vats should also fit. I use them on my mono 4K. I like them better than the solov vats as they use a two piece fep tensioning ring instead of the newer solov one ring system.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WGFF4K4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just to confirm, is this your printer? Using an amazon link.
I know the numbers on the anycubic website are as you've said but I still can't believe it and almost think that's an error. The only reason I'm saying so is because of the mono screen. If you compare those numbers to the machine I have (standard mono) those settings are running almost half the time or more.
Anyway, regardless of what I think, you're not getting any results from me, really sorry about that. This thread looks dead as well so it might be worth posting again. I would also suggest reaching out to the other subreddits and even the facebook groups as well. It's still in my head that those exposure settings are wrong, but it may very well be the resin you're using is unique as well. I understand a lot of the 'engineering' resins can have a blooming issue due to the non-resin elements in the mix. Really hope you find a solution better that just modelling to compensate.
I switch resins all the time, including from grey to clear and back. Honestly you don't need to do anything other than drain the vat well. I use a soft silicon spatula (like the ones from this set) to wipe out any residual resin and that's it. Doesn't need any special cleaning, even if there's a droplet or two of the old resin, it'll be diluted to nothing with the new resin.
It’s very likely an issue with your print sticking to FEP as others have already said. Look into nFEP, it’s just like FEP but I have about 100 prints on my first sheet of it and I haven’t had a single piece of cured resin stick to it. It’s not a magical fix for all print issues, but it does help. It definitely gives me more margin of error on my exposure settings
You should be able to save this print by filling in the crevice there and spot curing. It’s easiest to fill a syringe with resin, then put a blunt tipped needle on it and that way you can control how much resin you’re applying with precision
These are the type of needles I’m referring to: https://www.amazon.com/BSTEAN-Refilling-Measuring-Adhesives-Applicator/dp/B01N4B9282/
When I lost my power supply during a move and found this one on amazon and it hasn't given me any issues. Hopefully it helps.
You want the regular Mars vats, not the "mars 2" vat for the Mono 4K.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WGFF4K4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've been using these and they work great. The dimples for the hold down screws don't line up perfectly but it doesn't really matter. I originally bought the sovol vats, but for some strange reason the newer ones use a one piece retention ring for the fep instead of the usual 2 piece system which makes it impossible to adjust the tension on the vat. I'd recommend the mars vats.
I have made a heater very similar to the thermalvatband product using heating elements like these and attaching the thermostat probe to the vat magnetically.
https://www.amazon.com/24V-Flexible-Polyimide-Heater-Plate/dp/B074SXKPZL
They have 3M adhesive on one side and it helps if you use the very skinny ones (you can’t cut these to size obviously, so the width of the heat element can’t exceed the height of your vat.
I had excellent results with this setup, but as I said in another comment, they eventually will peel off if you use alcohol or acetone to clean your vat. Mine lasted about 3 months before I had to put a replacement on. The temperature control was spot on, and any fluctuations or inconsistencies with these types of setups is due to poorly placed temperature probes and/or probe calibration.
The most important factors here are consistency and uniform heating. When you heat the resin vat alone, the print head will run slightly cooler. This isn’t a crisis for small print spaces but if you have a large print bed you’ll benefit from using the PTC heater setup instead. Your resin and build plate will always be the same temperature in that case, and the difference it makes shocked me at first. It’s also nice because the temperature probe doesn’t need to be fixed to any surface, so over/underheating is less likely
Yes also these polyamide covered heat elements are also almost identical to the Thermalvatband product and you can get a set of 10 for the cost of 1 thermalvatband.
https://www.amazon.com/24V-Flexible-Polyimide-Heater-Plate/dp/B074SXKPZL
I started out with these before switching to the magnetic PTC heater mount and it worked wonders. The reason I switched is because it’s not convenient to have a resin vat with a heating element glued to its edges. I use acetone for vat cleaning quite often, and these film heaters would frequently peel off while I was trying to clean the vats. Not a problem if you have a bag of 10 replacements.
The plus side of a brew belt is you can find one that you could cinch around the vat without the use of adhesives.
Yeah that would probably be the best option, to go straight up for a long exposure time, I used Anycubic resin before, now I found this brand that is a lower price than anycubic and it does have good reviews, I guess just prolonging the time would be a good idea.
Issues with parts are all about water in the IPA. I use 99% and get 4 gal for about $80. I also filter and distill my old IPA and bet ~91% from that. Order from https://www.amazon.com/Isopropyl-Alcohol-Grade-99-Anhydrous/dp/B01KK014F4?pd\_rd\_w=Vl8mN&content-id=amzn1.sym.deffa092-2e99-4e9f-b814-0d71c40b24af&pf\_rd\_p=deffa092-2e99-4e9f-b814-0d71c40b24af&pf\_rd\_r=DK5WTMTE9PFWSSYQXFFR&pd\_r...
You can get water wash resin, then you just slush it around in a dunk tank, let it air dry off, then throw it in your curing station/your back porch! I got mine in blue: https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Precision-UV-Curing-Shrinkage-Photopolymer/dp/B09QKQ977J/ref=dp\_prsubs\_1?pd\_rd\_i=B09QKQ3CGB&th=1
This happened to me after I left the Iso alcohol in the tub for almost a year. I cleaned up all the rust with W40 and soap then buy neodymium magnets to replace. I used these:
You can go either/or with it, I don't really know where you can buy the already assembled vat, mayhaps at the official website of the photon mono¯_(ツ)_/¯. The FEP sheets are easier to find though, you can buy them on amazon, just watch a few vids on how to change them. It's not that complicated, and it gets easier the more you do it. I just changed out the FEP on my Mars 3 and it was easier then I thought. Here is a link to the sheets on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Calorbot-260x200x0-15mm-Anycubic-Photon-Printers/dp/B08TSYVVWG/ref=sxin_19_pa_sp_phone_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.72e510ed-9493-4675-9013-8584d13c4f16%3Aamzn1.sym.72e510ed-9493-4675-9013-8584d13c4f16&crid=...
i use air dry clay:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GAP4YA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
easy to manipulate and dries hard over night.
Just checking, is this the regular mono? If so, it original VAT doesn't have a metal frame to allow you to swap the FEP. It instead uses pre FEP-ed frames you have to buy separately.
If you're looking to install your own FEP, I would suggest buying an extra VAT. A lot of people swear by the sovol VAT but check around: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sovol-Anodized-Aluminium-Preinstalled-Silicone/dp/B08CJZ711T/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1AF0SUXWTDLH7&keywords=sovol+3d+printer+resin+vat&qid=1661033107&sprefix=sovol%2Caps%2C929&sr=8-5
I was losing my mind after I tore the FEP on my M3 Max while I was still tuning my prints for it. I immediately bought a 5-pack on Anycubic's site, but they were out of stock and it took over two months after my order to arrive.
Out of frustration, I bought a roll of FEP that just barely fits on the vat, but it's been working fine.
It's here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B091D8R23Z
At least I have spares now.
I have a Photon M3 Plus and haven't replaced the FEP yet. Is it really not the same method as in this video? I figured it looked straightforward enough but from what you write it seems like the frame isn't removeable like this. But then if that's not the case, why is it that AnyCubic sells individual FEP replacement sheets with no frame like these that I bought?
Or are the vats different between the M3 and M3 Plus? I know they're not the same size but I'd figure they're the same design. I'm not looking forward to finding out when I need to replace my FEP...
I believe you can get it off Amazon, here is an example https://www.amazon.ca/MECCANIXITY-Flexible-Printer-Camera-Laptop/dp/B09R9VQH3W/ref=sr_1_17?crid=1KKPOR8JTTXN8&keywords=10+pin+ribbon+cable&qid=1659834177&sprefix=10+pin+%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-17 but I make no guarantees that it is an exact match as I haven't had to replace the cable myself.
I recently had a leak that ruined my LCD on my Mono X.I bought a new LCD, but the FFC cables for the screen doesn't fit the connection on the motherboard.
After some searching I found this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B098Q8CWGH/ref=twister_B09V2HT99H?_encoding=UTF8&th=1
which shows that there are two versions of screens for the Mono X, however I can find no information about this anywhere else, not even on Anycubics website (which is where I bought the new screen).
I have written their support, and they just replied with a non-sense answer and a link to their video showing how to install a new LCD (which I already know how to do).
Have any of you had the same problem?
They still haven't solved their issue with concave build plates, so you may need to lap it.
Their forced transition layers means printing anything directly to the build plate without an elephants foot is nearly impossible.
Their AA implementation is the worst of any current generation printer because their board is only capable of black and white so they approximate with pixel on time instead. Still serviceable though.
They push a lot of proprietary hardware, don't share specs with 3rd party slicers, and don't update their own slicer. meanwhile changelogs on firmware updates might as well be non existent (and this goes for all anycubic products)
The upsides vs other mid-size resin printers is mostly the largest Z height potential of any of them.
These things are all livable downsides if you need the extra 40mm of build height, but if you don't, then I'd recommend the Flashforge Foto 8.9 currently available at $300.
My first printer ended up looking like one of the humans stuck in goo in Aliens. With my second printer I had a few strategies - I always change gloves after the first part of the cleaning process. That is to say once the resin is back in the bottle and the vat is clean, I ditch the first gloves and get new ones. Another is using a silicone mat or cafeteria tray as others have mentioned. Another thing is I have a smaller4oz mister that is full of iso alcohol that I use to spray on everything that might have gotten resin on it to help with the wipedown. Also some of these people aren't human, I mean we are using magic goo to make tiny captain americas, its gonna be a sloppy process.
For resin work, I go no lower than 91%.
I recently, maybe insanely, ordered four gallons of 99% from Amazon for $70.
You need to get a silicone spill mat with a lip, because you will spill the resin. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09TP5KCRP
But that won't prevent the splatter of resin going around the room as you remove the prints, pour the resin, filter the resin, clean the prints in IPA (mixed with you guessed it - resin), removing the supports is an extra-splattery activity you may engage in, and the resin is toxic. It can give you cancer. So just keep that in mind as you're doing this inside your living space.
A charcoal filter like this
For 3D printing it's a little overkill as I don't find the fumes to be all that bad. But I use a similar fan to filter set up in my grow tent. You can be standing right beside the tent and not know there's cannabis plants inside because of how well the filter works.
A good one will also last for years
There are smallish rolls of PFA Film (nFEP) available through Amazon Canada. They are 300mm wide and 1000mm long. Large enough for two nFEP replacements. Here's a link to one of them https://www.amazon.ca/Printers-Flatness-Excellent-Retardant-Competent/dp/B0B5MN2B4H/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=2MQLQ3JX8W6TR&keywords=PFA+FILM+ROLL&qid=1657677587&sprefix=pfa+film+roll%2Caps%2C125&sr=8-3
excellent. I bought the FEPs from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B091N3QVF9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Personally, I stopped using my stainless steel filter and went with a disposable paint filter. It was too fussy. I don't usually like disposable items, but I find the reusable filter too slow and too messy.
For reference, it is something similar to this: https://www.amazon.ca/Strainer-Silicone-Funnel-Filter-Micron/dp/B09C8DWTSX/
i use air dry clay and clay sculpting tools to get into the gaps/seams and fill them in. if you are careful, it all disappears once you prime. works wonders
When I got a blister on my FEP for my Anycubic Mono 4k then I bought two 3rd party replacement tanks:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DH9Q1L9?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Replacement FEP for them will be much cheaper and they were already set up so I could get moving again and have spares on the side which in theory could let me change colors quickly (if only I have spare plates that didn't have resin needing to be washed off of them).
You will need a new screen.
Next time try this. Gently.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QXZLKJ9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought these for my anycubic mono…. Check this out! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G82HSTD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_ud_dp_Z8DCJ8ACWNV7HGS53D29
About the same price as two from anycubic and you can change the fep on these.
I've not noticed any issues. Maybe some slight lines showing up, but that may be how the file I ran is. Doesn't show up always. I actually just ordered this product to try as well, since it is supposed to be optically clear.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZYZGL91/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
One note I should have mentioned... Every time I replace the protective film, I take care to clean the screen with a microfiber cloth and dry it before putting a new film down. I use denatured alcohol, but Isopropyl alcohol should work. I've use acetone as well, but it's a little strong. Dry time is just couple minutes.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YCR43FL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I did relevel after applying it. Though I has also had to replace the screen at the same time because I did the same thing you did.
Yep, this happened to me too - a lesson learned. I think almost all of us to this once. You'll have to buy a new screen.
After I did this, I got serious about protective films. The ones you buy specific for 3D printers are great, but a little pricey, and I always seemed to forget to buy them when I used the last one. So, I started using this product: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07PLX43LP?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 which is basically a clear, adhesive shelf liner/protector.
It comes in a big roll, it's cheap, and it works. You just cut it with scissors or an Xacto knife. If you get a little FEP leak, it's no big deal to peal it up, throw it away, and put a new one down.
I've been using the Elegoo Mars 2 pack from amazon. Seems to work fine.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WGFF4K4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I had purchased the new Sovol vats without knowing they changed the design. They did seem to work ok, but after a few prints the FEP had stretched out enough it was only ringing in the 110 Hz range so decided to give the Elegoo's a try. I didn't actually have any failures with the new Sovol vats, but I didn't trust them.
No worries, as far as the 3-1 it's this one https://www.amazon.com/3-ONE-Multi-Purpose-PTFE-Lubricant/dp/B084VPM421
I've seen a lot of videos/posts about it, I picked some up and honestly havn't had as many issues since using it. It works for say 2-3 prints, you'll want to reapply it when able but basically it makes the fep much less adhesive so you don't have to worry about parts sticking to the bottom as much.
FYSETC LCD Gasket 6.5 x 4.1 inch Protection from Resin Spill Internal LCD/ FEP Film Resin Resistant Portable Protection for Photon S/Mar-s/EPX X1 3D Printer Installation for 5.5 inch Screens-3Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MTK9LHK/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_EQYZ6AMZMAE7P5F83VR5
Check their store for size
You have to use anycubic fep?
I just replaced mine broken M3 plus fep, with nfep from Amazon (next day delivery): KOYOFEI 3PCS nFEP Film for Resin 3D Printer, nFEP(PFA) Release Film for Elegoo Mars 3, Saturn, Mono 4K, Mono X, Sonic Mini 8K, Halot Lite 5.5" -8.9'' LCD Resin 3D Printer 260x200x0.127mm https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09Q5RZ7MY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_5BGFBF8FXRD55HXD4RGA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Calibration print test turned out great with the nfep. Now printing a larger 8hr job, will see how that goes.
I haven't tried it yet but I got recommended this https://www.amazon.se/dp/B07DFLBR1D/ref=pe_24982401_503747021_TE_SCE_3p_dp_1?th=1 for this exact purpose. I am waiting for my package rn.
this may be and idea something to start with and mod to work
https://www.amazon.com/Water-Dispenser-Gallon-Pump-Black/dp/B08H4WMK37/ref=pd\_day0fbt\_img\_sccl\_2/130-9886245-8302562?pd\_rd\_w=gtBHu&content-id=amzn1.sym.bcb8482a-3db5-4b0b-9f15-b86e24acdb00&pf\_rd\_p=bcb8482a-3db5-4b0b-9f15-b86e24acdb...
Apparently these are popular for this usage:
Fdit PTC Car Fan Air Heater for Small Room Space (12V 100W) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07B26KKH7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ECRSD938T8AHMBBHWY8K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
DC 12V Digital Display Adjustable Microcomputer Electronic Thermostat Intelligent Temperature Controller Switch with NTC Waterproof Sensor Probe https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07JHMY1M2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D4PNFC0Q564R137CWSZ3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I honestly just grabbed it off Amazon.
Just measure to ensure you know your build plate dimensions. They're a huge time and headache saver.
No the type I use does not spray. You squeeze a few drops out and then use a microfiber cloth to spread it around the FEP. You should just have a small amount coating the FEP, not even noticeable. The 3 in 1 I saw recommended on a YT channel, Uncle Jessy maybe.
You can get it at Lowe's or Home Depot much cheaper, like $4 a bottle.
Creality 5.5 Inch 2K HD LCD Screen with 2560x1440 Resolution Compatible for Creality LD002R / Anycubic Photon 3D Printer with Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0882V5KVD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PZQ22A87Y36NT70CQ7RS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 this is what I recently replaced my OG screen with. It was about $25 American
With gaps that big, you would need a much more powerful fan. I use an inline unit similar to this:
VIVOSUN 4 Inch 190 CFM Inline Duct Ventilation Fan with Variable Speed Controller for Grow Tent https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DXYMGOM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_0K8W8JM9H34MP98BB628
Hi, Several views and opinions here all with merit of course. First off I would defo get the stock cover back on or you will see failed prints with the resin hardening etc. Do try the two little filters. Most of them on Amazon now come with filters installed as well as two spares in the box so you should get decent mileage out of them. The only thing is to keep them charged up and mine charge slower than a really slow thing lol. Depending on budget and to get an off the shelf solution which IMHO should remove pretty much all of the stray odour would be to get a Solder Fune Extractor and if it does not come with a nicely finished tube end then either just cut a hole for the tube or print/buy a nice adapter to give it that polished look. Something along these lines, If you shop around you can get them at around $100 if not cheaper but it may be worth hitting Amazon up for one to see if does the job and then sourcing a cheaper one 😉.
I'm in the UK but these are much cheaper everywhere else on the planet...
KOTTO Soldering Smoke Absorber, Electric Iron Welding Fume Extractor Soldering Smoke Absorber Remover DIY Fume Extractor Filter with Strong Suction https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07ZHH5H7N/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_D692H4FMFT9SKF2FGTDW
It is all down to budget if any of course but as mentioned by others on here I would definitely put your Ender back in its home, use the stock cover on the AnyCubic and work your solution on that. For one you well no longer have to worry about any UV getting to your resin. Secondly, you are going to have to move far far less air than you currently do in that large enclosure. Most likely half your problem to be honest.
Hopefully the above Extractor may give you a few more ideas even if you want to build your own solution.
The very best of luck and do let us all know how you get on! 😊👍🏻
Here’s the link to the FEP I use from Amazon.com
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08TSYVVWG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It is NOT difficult to change the FEP. It’s just takes a bit of patience and some time (and, oddly enough, a bottle cap off a plastic soda bottle)
This video explains it very well and I’ve followed this process with 100% success multiple times. It’s straight from AnyCubic and is very clear. Zero issues
The process usually takes me around 20 minutes with most of that time spent unscrewing mounting screws and then replacing them carefully to maintain an even pressure around the rim, helping maintain an even tension on the new FEP
Go slow. Be patient. Follow the instructions. Good things happen!
Cheers!