At least it works. I have no idea what the Toyota designers were thinking with the new Prius rear-end.
No source on the 10 million to make one episode of MP (though that wouldn't surprise me), but Netflix could ABSOLUTELY give them a 10mil/year budget. And likely then some. Per the link below, 2014 revenues were 5.5billion and gross income was 1.75billion. They're not hurting for cash.
The Stinger script logo came with an adhesive applied. I used the following for the AWD badge:
Your experience isn't a study. One person's experience is not everyone's:
From another report:
"Mercedes-Benz and BMW, with below-average reliability, are near the bottom of our ranking. Their SUVs, especially, had reliability problems, according to our survey, despite being good performers. And although the BMW 1 Series has an excellent road-test score, it is hobbled by terrible reliability."
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0rg64jb9m02ci64/haytruk-04.jpg
48 ford pickup with unknown year headlights, stretched frame that'd been z'd in the front and C notched in the rear to get it so low without channeling the cab. Grill shell was off a street sweeper truck's industrial engine unit that had been mounted on the back to run the sweeper. I liked it, but it was time for something different.
Let it be known that i have no idea where i got this, and that it's not for sale.Theses are though.
As an ex-owner of a DSM Talon .... i can confirm this.
It was my first car too .... here's the proof.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/d7m0t7vxf7842s2/Recoverd_jpg_file%285134%29.jpg
The crank actually went for a walk on me .....
Hellaflush is the term you're looking to hate on.
In all matters subjective, there's no accounting for taste.
This guy is super cool and lives in Malibu. He sold the Monza but I believe he still has the C12. The car is registered on MFG plates so he drives it quite a bit, even at local car meets...sorry for the long links https://www.flickr.com/photos/ianjonesphotography/3916204463/in/photolist-cEaaz7-a9dtkw-ag2pfc-a8Tx8f-86E8ux-8pmMwP-7PvPa7-7P6oZB-7PeQDh-6Y4z9B/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/ianjonesphotography/4471068829/in/photolist-cEaaz7-a9dtkw-ag2pfc-a8Tx8f-86E8ux-8pmMwP-7PvPa7-7P6oZB-7PeQDh-6Y4z9B/ But as you might imagine, the car draws quite a crowd so he prefers to drive his Porsches more often.
me neither ;) *edit, the smiley is a link
http://wikimapia.org/1740555/Adenauer-Forst-corners
From what I've done in GTR Evolution, it's about 3 minutes in and catches you off guard if you haven't driven it before. It's a blind uphill corner and the moment you reach the top, there's suddenly a hard left to make it around a right-hand chicane. Nowadays the chicane is partially paved, probably so people who screw up don't dig their tires into the dirt and roll.
It could be a BlueTooth OBD-II scanner. I just bought one from Amazon so I can wirelessly scan for codes from the maker's smartphone app. Works great. No need to carry around a bulky handheld device.
https://www.amazon.com/BlueDriver-Bluetooth-Professional-iPhone-Android/dp/B00652G4TS
Lexus has built some of the most reliable cars ever and japanese automakers have dominated in realiabilty for a long time.
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/magazine/2014/04/who-makes-the-best-cars/index.htm
Wolfram Alpha to the rescue! Or would you prefer the UK hogshead conversion?
Feb 17, 2009. The stock closed at 1.58. I would say thats pretty low for such a massive company. Check the history out on Yahoo Finance.
http://www.ehow.com/how_4752560_use-timing-light.html
Put a mark on the crank w/ fingernail polish or something easily visible at the correct mark(should be notches in it). You need to find out what the stock timing degree relative to TDC at idle is.
> This is why I am a big fan of tesla. Going after markets that aren't concerned with savings as much as the vehicle it self.
True, the Tesla is a high-end sports car, and I'd love to own one if I could afford it, but as you said, unless your market is for $70,000 cars, buying one to save money is a joke.
> > From what? I don't have 4 hours a day
> You don't sleep? Is your vehicle used 24 hours a day?
You cut off part of what I wrote. I don't have 4 hours a day to sit at charging station. If I plug this into a standard 120V/15A outlet, I'll only be able to drive 33.18 miles assuming 100% charging efficiency and Tesla's claimed efficiency. I could do better if I'd install a range outlet (240V / 50A) outside I could get 221.2 miles, though again, that's assuming 100% charging efficiency, power factor of 1, and according to the NEC you can't pull a constant 50A from a 50A outlet.
> Last point is for every electric on the road means less demand for gas meaning you will get to keep your gas car on the road longer. You should be hoping more people buy electric.
So do efficient cars. I want people to be aware of the benefits and issues with each technology and choose the option that's best for them.
> How high does gas price need to get before ev becomes the more economical choice?
I think when the break-even point is down to down to 3 years. Depending on who you ask, americans buy a new car every 3-7 years. Based on my assumption of the EV costing $20,000 more, you'll end up paying at least an extra $10k if you finance, so assuming $30k, at the point where you'd spend $10k a year on gas the electric would be the smarter choice, which would be about $20 / gallon. Hopefully, the price of EVs comes down so it would be economical before that.
$5 tire repair kit, compressor, condoms, water, space blanket, quick detailer and microfiber, flask of bourbon, various phone chargers, headlamp, 2m/70cm HT's, OBD-II scanner, emergency cigar, ...
I meant in terms of the safety standards such as this one. That being said, the Smart ForTwo still gets good crash test results, so I suspect that the increase is size was predominantly because of customer demand and marketing rather than safety.
A little tip:
To get the wheelbase right, most of the time your wheels will be 2.5-3 wheels apart. So in between your actual wheels sketch 2.5-3 circles to get the length right.
Example: https://www.sketchbook.com/blog/how-to-draw-cars-step-by-step-profile-view/
Second image down and you’ll see what I mean :)
Keep up the good work!
If that's in Oregon, I think my friend saw it down in Tangent (east of Corvallis, along I-5) the other night. He said it was suffering from Alfaitis...lol
I don't know, one of these Yakuza Lamborghinis has a very similar wrap and it looks sweet as shit in a ridiculous way.
> I personally hate how most modern sedans look so similar.
Aerodynamics and CAFE are the root cause. The automakers need to get their mileage up to meet the new regs, and aero is the fastest way to get the most improvement.
For future designs, they'll likely start to resemble the Mercedes Boxfish Concept:
http://www.engadget.com/2005/06/08/the-mercedes-benz-bionic-boxfish-concept-car/
You bastard, I've been admiring it on Japanese Classics as well.
Mine came from them: http://www.japaneseclassicsllc.com/1990-nissan-skyline-gts-4.html
The fog lights are gone and now it has a FMIC, coil overs, CAI, different wheels, and a HKS bov. (the person who owned it before me did the mods, he bought it from Japanese Classics then had to sell it two months later). Here's a video I shot of it recently. https://www.instagram.com/p/-hS5tPhhWQ/
^still ^not ^a ^GTR ^though.
The only residue that I found was the blue stuff that was on the ends. It looks like Loctite 242 residue to me (also shown on my vehicle in the album above). Thanks for the confirmation on this.
you should probably just buy a BMW CSL front bumper.
Would cost less than what you'll pay for a new one(if you buy a replica), and you'll get prop points from fellow bmw owners
BTW the 2005 ZHP bumper is different from the regular 330i...so make sure you don't buy the wrong part
here is a red M3 bumper for $220 shipped on ebay...pretty sure that's the same color(I think both are called imola red)
You can leave it plugged in overnight, but it's unnecessary (and wastes electricity). Best thing to do is plug it in about 2 hours before you need to leave. Some folks will use timers to accomplish this.
Some additional reference links:
They're charging about 4 times titanium commodity prices. http://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=150.8+in^3+titanium
See: Scion FR-S
Depends how much you know or want to learn about mechanical stuff. I know a guy with a 51 plymouth I could have bought running and driving for about $600. This car has mostly been trades. The sequence that led to this point was me buying a rusty old 81 Ford F350 tow truck for about $4k. I traded that to a guy for a 1929 Ford Model A sedan, then I traded that to a friend for https://www.dropbox.com/s/0rg64jb9m02ci64/haytruk-04.jpg the ratrod truck which I had to put a transmission in, sort the brakes, and do some stuff to get it reliable and 'done', then I had been looking to trade that for a nice 85 or earlier solid axel toyota 4x4 but nobody seemed to have one that wasn't mangled or a V6 or both, and a guy contacted me about this desoto so I traded him. So here it sits. Cars in barns are out there, despite what people say. Ya just have to look around for them.
Get rid of the nav and just get something like this. It is significantly cheaper and you can just hide it in the center console until you need it, so it is out of sight most of the time. If things are still running too high, get rid of the premium package and then the speakers, in that order. It's a BMW, stock speakers aren't going to be shit, although a harmon/kardon system would be nice.
Also remember that you can try an talk the dealer down from his asking price. Use extras in the bargaining, for example if he is trying to sell you at one price, but you want a lower price, then say that you will go up to his price if he throws in the speaker system or whatever. Good luck.
All taken during the car show "Concours d'élégance" in Coppet, Switzerland last year. See the high-res (and even download them if you want a new desktop background) here: https://unsplash.com/collections/1131455/car-details (I've asked a few friends and they could identify most of them)
Check out this link for a good list of used car recommendations in any price range.
A lotta Tundra, imo. Me.....I'm more of a Ford Courier size truck.
edit: fixed
Looks like this. Pretty easy to use. If it's really old put a little heat cycle on it with a propane torch first... Even 200 degrees on the pulley helps a lot.
They're designed for tight spots too.
There's this stuff called Invisible Glass. My whole family swears by it. Comes in a black spray CAN with a yellow cap and blue/white lettering if I remember correctly. Think you can get it at Target or Wallyworld.
Aero bars will be quieter than other shapes. You may want to think about locking them, which will cost you extra. Load capacity might be slightly higher for round or square bars than aero bars. It looks like the OEM bars for '14-'15 can easily be adjusted for your 2017. Bonus: they're available on amazon! https://www.amazon.com/SUBARU-2014-FORESTER-CROSSBAR-SET-AERO/dp/B00CHSTGKI
edit: rackattack is a good place to find what will fit. They carry the big names (Thule, Yakima, etc.). If you're looking for something you can use for years to come, I'd recommend the major brands. Fit, finish, and function will all be better.
I saw an indy mechanic using this while performing a PPI on a car I eventually purchased, and he highly recommended it. They stick to the car, are much lighter, and won't scratch your paint. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ES3TQU
My trailer got stolen out of my driveway on the night of May 3rd. It turns out my neighbor had security cameras that record movement in the night, and caught the thief driving off with my trailer.
The trailer is a Trailex aluminum sportscar hauler, and is 19ft toungue to bed end, and 16ft bed, if that helps for dimensions. My guess is some sort of older chevy/GMC. i can't tell if it is a dually or as single wheel rear axles. It also seems lowered.
Here are some pictures of the trailer: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMIWAdyKGX2-Br0U-uzWEUdcjr0DMpKubfXYxq_C9razvSlLvYxQowDU3F-Op9r9Q?key=SnRJSVg3NGZOZXZsaXNLRFNhZkpmNlN6UE5JS19B
Why not just buy a real hot rod rather than a Prowler, and for less money?
So, you’d need something like this?
I'm not particularly knowledgeable with BMWs and their camber setup, but a google search shows that weird wear patterns (either inner or outer edges completely worn out) are common with those particular models. Kind of sounds like an alignment issue, though everyone claims to have their car set up with the official alignment setup.
For wax, at my dealership anyway, we just use this stuff, and it works great. For new cars, we clay them then wax them with Meguiars.
For the leather, I just use whatever the parts department gives us and it usually works okay - I can't even remember the name of it right now, I'm just visualizing a white bottle with red and black writing :/ sorry. But I think the main thing is to use a nice creamy conditioner after you clean it, and use the conditioner like every month or so. That should help a lot.
For the one that has microswirls, what have you been doing with it up until now? What do you wash it with? (mitt/soap/shammy) The handheld buffer is what a professional would probably use on it, and 3M clear polish works pretty good, but you have to be pretty careful with it. Unless you have experience buffing a less nice car, or you're really confident in the steadiness of your hands, I'd go to a pro. It's pretty easy to just make things worse with a buffer. I've seen people wear right through the paint.
For keeping it shiny outside the shop, I would wash it every 2 weeks at least, assuming you're driving it regularly. I like this wash mitt, because it doesn't hold on dirt and grit. Rinse it out often to avoid grinding dirt into the paint. I have a nice leather shammy for drying, but microfiber cloths also work fine.
We use this stuff called "Eco Aluminum" for cleaning the wheels - I think it's aluminum sulfate. It smells like a cow fart but it works very well for getting tar and bad dirt off of wheels and it's perfectly safe for paint. You spray it on, go do something else for 20 minutes, then scrub it off. For tire shine we use bulk stuff from Zep but I've had good experiences with Armor All cream tire shine. Don't use the aerosol foam stuff, that's crap.
Anything I missed?
Plasti-dip them pink. Then remove the pink after you move.
https://lifehacker.com/avoid-getting-your-car-stolen-with-an-attention-grabbin-1601288271
Or maybe buy a set of cheap wheels and then sell them after you move
>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001UZZ72/ref=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_api\_i\_ATH6WX2A7ZX7S71AQQGY
It's not the velcro (i.e., the hook-and-loop sides), it's the adhesive on the other side. They can't handle the heat.
He actually ported it to Android a while back. Phone can get a little warm, but it's a fun little game. You get better control using a pc keyboard of course, but you can still take on Rambo without it. Would advise having a gang together first because he has a machine gun. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.pssoft.crimefighter
Thanks for the info, I’ll order the 3M and see if it helps.
Out of curiosity, what makes the current stuff the wrong Velcro? It’s Velcro brand industrial strength heavy duty stick on.
VELCRO Brand Industrial Fasteners Stick-On Adhesive | Professional Grade Heavy Duty Strength Holds up to 10 lbs on Smooth Surfaces | Indoor Outdoor Use, 4in x 2in (2pk), Strips, 2 Sets, 90200 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001UZZ72/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ATH6WX2A7ZX7S71AQQGY
That's the wrong Velcro.
3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener SJ3560 250 Clear, 1 in x 4 Ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QNMBB28/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_8ERD5FDPV8371EX1BHBK
AUTOBOXCLUB - Heavy Duty EZPass/IPass/Toll Pass Mounting Strips/EZ Pass Mounting Strips/EZPass Transponder Device Holder/EZ Pass Adhesive Strip Set - 8pcs (4sets) with Alcohol Prep Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5EH7R9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_6B0H74PDHDJ9JYCXQSJ4
Autel MS300 Universal OBD2 Scanner Car Code Reader, Turn Off Check Engine Light, Read & Erase Fault Codes, Check Emission Monitor Status CAN Vehicles Diagnostic Scan Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RSZVZH8DAWE5Y04BFZBQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I can’t seem to remember which company used to make pre cut headlights film. But I ran into this by accident. I do remember seeing this in SEMA a few years ago.
ClearMask 3M 8 Mil Headlight Protection Film Kit with Self Patterning Liner (2) 15 inch by 30 inches Bulk Sheets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D4QXLNN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VGNWM1990T0YJTTMD8D7
Wera 05003972001 Belt B 3 Torx HF Zyklop Bit Socket Set, 3/8", HF, (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B7WTF65/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_VVTJ0DVQH1RMJ4HC6PEA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Google Wera or USH, there are other brands people say are better but the Weras were shipped fast and I know mechanics in the UK who love em for mini coopers
This is for replacing the fuel pump, but involves dropping the tank.. I don't have an S-10, but seems the same procedure could be used for swapping the tank, but I might be missing something...
Metal inner one?
Most door panels are similar to this:
http://www.ehow.com/video_4874556_remove-car-door-panel.html
If you have checked the fuse and that isn't blown, the panel needs to come off.
Next, get 12V to the motor to see if it runs. If it does, your switch is bad. Run the window up and deal with that as needed.
If it doesn't, your motor is bad. You may be be able to disconnect the 'lifter' and secure it with something temporarily, like a clamp of some kind.
A multimeter would be handy to have, but the steps above might get your window up for the time being.
Plenty of z31's had digital dashes in the usdm. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/229571071393933/
You can tell that this isn't an 84 ae because it has the non add on wide fenders in the rear which were only on the 86 models with that particular front end.
Also http://www.xenonzcar.com/z31/modeldifferences.html >There were 3 Trim codes for the 300ZX in the US market. They are SF(canada), GL, GLL. . GL models had Analog Dash, Cloth interior and manual AC controls. GLL models had Leather Interior, Digital Electronics Package and Adjustable Suspension.
You could get the digital dash as an option, but what do I know, I only own a single z31
Reminds me of Robodock in Amsterdam. They had a arm that the public could control with a dataglove. Coolest thing ever.
http://gizmodo.com/308074/scrap+made-robotic-hand-crushes-cars-at-robodock-2007-festival
They also had a jet engine from a passenger airliner, which they ran on the pier because fuck you this is loud.
Video here:
https://sendvid.com/oljg7apv
From the seller:
"It's a 350 with a power glide, I haven't seen any rust. I had a guy check it out and he was really surprised there wasn't any rust. I'll get pics as soon as possible I work 11 hour days and it always dark when I get home. So hopefully I'll have time either on a lunch or my day off."
I followed a guide for a 96-99 Taurus. The dash piece is just a tape deck and radio control, while the actual radio heart and stock amplifier are in a separate unit in the trunk. I patched a 1/8in jack into the wires that connect the tape deck to the amp. I pop a regular cassette into the deck and plugging in my ipod nearly mutes it (not sure why since all I'm doing is putting the ipod in parallel). Anyway, if you can open up the radio unit (which I assume is one piece, unlike mine) and find the 4 wires from the cassette player, its possible. I'd recommend using a few breaks in the line inside the dash so you can make things easier if the radio ever comes out or dash gets taken apart. Don't permanently attach your radio to, let's say, the ash tray you stuck the cable through. I had to redo all the wiring because my OCD/paranoia eventually got me a few months later.
Here's the guide I followed. to apply it to your car will take some knowledge in electronics, though http://www.instructables.com/id/MP3-input/
Even among its luxury German brothers, Audi posts higher repair costs earlier in the vehicle's lifetime.
Problems such as, the fault of the 4.2L V8 timing chain tensioners is common knowledge (same engine in the S5 I believe?). Audi's design makes it particularly difficult to access, requiring removing the engine and a $5,000 to $10,000 bill.
Consumer Reports once called Audi a "sinkhole of service problems" but to give it credit, it seems to have upped its game in the last couple of years, now earning a place behind Lexus. OP is buying a used one though, from 5-7 years ago.
I know A4 and MkVI GTI owners who while pleased with the performance of their cars, also spent more than their fair share in the shop (the A4 received a new engine if I recall correctly). The MkVI owner leased and did not buy the car at the end of the term. The A4 owner still complains. My former boss leased a Toureg which was also plagued with problems, mostly electrical. She replaced it with a leased base Passat, which was largely fine (but the car felt worse than a Camry in my opnion).
My trusted mechanic, who deals more in motorsport and performance applications, routinely complains about absurd Porsche designs and dreads working on VWs because of the amount of disassembly and headaches that inevitably ensues.
Thus we return to my first post: they're a pleasure to drive and look at, but I wouldn't own one, much less a used one. Of course they're a better car than a GM product, but that's not setting the bar very high now is it? Perhaps Volkswagen products are on a rebound though, I've heard good things about the MkVII GTI.
Check the distributor cap very very closely. Sometimes the cap itself develops a crack, which only becomes an issue when the car is hot or cold (not sure if that's the case). It can be really hard to spot - I usually pull the cap, then run a finger nail across all the "smooth" surfaces to see if my nail catches. Obviously the rotor is good?
Have you checked the wires this way?
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_test_spark_plug_wires
If it was the pump/filter, wouldn't all cylinders misfire at least some of the time?
I'm just trying to got through a process of elimination - like you. :)
>A person who has not been arrested can be charged. The prosecutors can write up and present the charges, and have a judge issue a warrant for the arrest of the suspect. Sometimes years can go by before the charged person is located and arrested.
>Read more: >http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_difference_between_being_arrested_and_being_charged#ixzz1fwC4Tp6I
At least it has much better looking headlamps than the Juke... That two tiered design on the Juke really is polarizing. Hate it on the Juke, like it on the Cherokee.
as an aside: https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/wannabe
Well, Bugatti was considered a french company, and raced with french colors, so one could make the case that the company's name is french, even if Ettore Bugatti was italian.
You can go to translate.google.com and listen to it in french.
Sort of late to the thread, but..$40k is definitely not going to cut it. GTM's -base- price, if you're incredibly economical about it, is ~$45k, but often its hard to get it under $50k - at least if you're going to make a decent car. You -could- do a bare-bone no soundeadening/audio/shitty paint job and plausibly get it around $40k (still very hard though), but why skimp on the $10k to make the car good if you're already paying $40k for it? Wait and save up more, look at my spreadsheet, for example - and thats a more remedial GTM, prices could really only be cut down by skimping on the major stuff - traction control, ac, paint, sound deadening, etc.
Keep in mind as well, the hours put into this car are crazy. If you do all of your own labor, think 1500-2200 hours (probably more on the 2200 end) or $15k in labor from other people, so either way its a huge investment
>I think the i8 is over and under rated. It has so much potential to be a sexy coupe, but it has all these weird features to it.
Basically it's like the Nokia 6600 of cars.
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Well if you have to owners manual, check to see what maintenance is required at the mileage you just hit. It doesn't come on because it senses it needs something it just clicks off after certain mileage intervals. If you don't have the manual go poke around online and see if you can find the maintenance schedule. If it recommended a timing belt at whatever mileage you just hit, get it done because if that belt goes you need an engine (There are options yea, but basically it means this) . Now the maintenance warning is said and done, I dont really give a fuck what you do to your car. If you want to reset it so it goes away and you don't have to see it, follow the instructions on this handy link!
I had the same problem a few months ago. It got to the point where I would drive for ten minutes on a new fuse and it would blow. I checked the entire circuit looking for a short and found nothing. It ended up being the voltage regulator that was bad. Heres The way I diagnosed the problem. Good Luck!
http://www.ehow.com/video_4874557_test-car-voltage-regulator.html
So I should be able to test the EGR valve according to the instructions in this guide (it's ehow, but it seems like sound advice.)
If the electrical looks to be working, then I would just need to clean out the EGR, right?
The Crysler 300 is the crappiest car available in our country.
Looked up all different kinds of jammers and came up with the laser elite le-x2; is the ZR4 better?
Hehe, over here in Europe you can get a base Elise S1 starting at €10k, S2 starting at €13k. Exiges starting at €17K and €22k respectively.
Just use double sided tape, its impossible to screw up and is very adhesive. You want this stuff: http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/434761139/3M_Auto_Acrylic_Foam_Double_Sided.html
You can get it at autozone for like $5
Technically this one, but as far as older cars go, this Volkswagen model went for $72,000, making it the most valuable production car.
Really a great car. I would be a bit hesitant to buy one just on the grounds that it's relatively unproven technology, but if I had a 6 or 7 figure income, I would totally buy it anyway. I think the coolest part about the Model S is when you accelerate, there isn't any noise. There's just a rush of power. I haven't driven one yet, but I would love to. It even won over Tom Mutchler of Consumer Reports, and he's really stodgy about cars!
In terms of reliability, Consumer Reports says to go with Asian manufactures.
> Audi, BMW, and Mercedes-Benz are among the worst automakers overall.
MPG: The Echo, Yaris, Camry, Scion xD, and Prius all get over 30 MPG. The Prius actually gets more than 40.
Reliability: Toyota is notorious for making cars that last 200,000 miles with little (if not neglected) routine maintenance. Anecdotally, in my family we bought a used 1993 Tercel that remained at least one member's daily driver until we sold it to a family friend in 2001, who still has it, and it's still never had problems. I couldn't guess what mileage it has but Toyotas are brutal.
Performance: Toyota has delegated all performance models to Lexus, but some trim of toyota models still have a little somethin-somethin when you hit the gas. The hybrid Camry produces 190HP which is a lot for a hybrid, and the 3.5L produces 270, which competes with infinitis. I consider the V6 6-speed Camrys (Camries?) to be borderline sleepers.
Sure they do, and a great scoring system. Except when it's not:
Best and Worst Scoring Cars (last reviewed <strong><em>APRIL</em></strong> 2011)
that's no Ford, that's Hord...guy put Honda K20 engine in Mk II Escort...mad
If anybody is interested in learning more about this car.
https://web.archive.org/web/20040411045913/http://www.twinturbov8.com/gioarticles.htm
This is Todd Wilkes (mentioned in the wiki article) old web page.
Oh yeah, I've heard of the Thema with the Ferrari v8 in it! Though, my favorite sibling is the Alfa 164 with the 4wd. I continually have thoughts of stealing the drivetrain and suspension from one of those and hooking it up to the B235R in an Aero.
The TCS system is essentially the same from '92 on in the 9000 series. It was optional from 94 on, and had an on/off switch from 95 on. But, if you have a 92, 93, or 94 with TCS, you can retrofit the on/off switch (eeuroparts even sells a kit), but you might need to swap out your ABS controller, depending on the year.
The on/off switch, however, won't help you, though, if the TCS system is out of order; you'll still go into limp home mode even if it's 'off'.
This is because part of the TCS system is an electronically controlled throttle body, and if TCS can't figure out how to calculate the correct throttle position, it goes into limp home, regardless of the on/off switch. That switch just tells TCS if it has the right to do anything if it detects wheelspin.
Fixing the broken seat heater isn't so bad, if you're handy with a soldering iron. Getting the seat cover off wasn't all that bad either. You might also check that the fuse isn't blown and the seat heater switch works. I really should go do the same thing for my wife's '97 900 SE Turbo, now that it's like 9 degrees F here.
Cheers!
This brings back memories. Cover car for Car & Driver Jan 1979. Got me started on my car obsession after seeing Smokey & The Bandit.
https://www.amazon.com/Car-Driver-Magazine-January-1979/dp/B017QJJUQC
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B076SD72HV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_X8F1Y9QATZB6VFCS1PWH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Then you can just have your ignition key seperate but still attach it when you leave your vehicle.
i have bought led's for my volvo xc70, i have had a good experience on the light out put especially for the high beams. however i had one of the led's die on me so far which is unfortunate. but if you need more light i would highly recommend these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HCZ7RZ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've never had 1000 hp. But turbos act like mufflers and chop up the noisy pulses and make engines quieter. I would think a turbo and muffler would be pretty quiet. The waste dump will be noisy.
I have made removable baffles for mine. I find my true dual 3" exhaust too loud for everyday use so just after the final bend I have 1.75" pipes about 8" long mounted inside the exhaust pipe. The 8" length of pipe is a dead end. It's removable for the track where I care less about noise.
This is a motorcycle technique for noise reduction. Being that it's a short distance at lower flow it shouldn't impact performance very much.
Kinda designed like this https://www.amazon.com/FOLCONROAD-Universal-Motorcycle-Exhaust-Removable/dp/B07FDW7KHJ
I've actually just listed them for sale on Amazon here if you're interested. I'll send you a DM as I'm actually looking for some reviews and can hook up a nice discount.
If you got yourself a RossTech cable and an Mighty Vac oil extractor (on top of your “well equipped” tool set) you’d be pretty well set for maintenance.
Having said that, Audi treats loyal clients pretty well in the event of major events outside of warranty, IF THEY ARE LOYAL. Basically, “you spend money with us, we’ll spend money on you.”
Edit: and Audi =/= an Audi Dealership.
Edit 2: that didn’t come out right either. The dealership is licensed to sell the brand but they still have to get the brands approval for certain things, engine failure at 120,000 miles. It’s not always up to the dealership.
Torque. You'll also need an OBDII Scan Tool.
After sanding/polishing, did you wipe it good with rubbing alcohol (two good swipes and let dry for a minute) before clear coat application?
Also, i'm not a big fan of the spray ons, this is what i use in my shop, three good sprays on a microfiber cloth, let dry 10 minutes, then apply second coat, dry 10 minutes. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AB16LH8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yup, I wanted tires I could hoon on without emptying my wallet so I bought the cheapest tires on amazon.
[Couldn't find my invoice but here's a set for less](www.amazon.com/dp/B00AHKX3N4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_HwcjAbN5GKDCZ)
EDIT: Ugly link is ugly and it won't format correctly ¯_(ツ)_/¯
Ram Mount. Works well on the road or on the track. Expensive, but worth it. https://www.amazon.com/Suction-Universal-X-Grip-Holder-RAM-B-166-UN7U/dp/B0066BWMNU/ref=sr_1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1491433014&sr=1-1&keywords=ram+mount