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Love it, easy to do and dirt cheap!
We have a total of six swing bolts now, evenly spaced over a 36"x72" area for suspension, a sling, two-point swing, etc. I think we'd get more questions about having six smoke detectors in the middle of the room than than we would just leaving them exposed!
Nicely done!
For your ceiling... something to consider:
SUS 304 stainless steel Suspension Strap Trainer Mount Anchor Bracket Hook Wall /Ceiling Mount Bracket for Gym Suspension Training Straps Yoga Swing, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072MH36SH
We use these eye pads with lashing rings and these welded eye pads for furniture hard points. Our playroom/lounge is grays and white and all of the furniture is black so the bright silver of the stainless steel looks really natural.
They're not inconspicuous on their own but every piece of furniture has at least a four of each on it so they kind of create their own theme around the room and come across more like eccentric embellishments to the untrained eye.
I honestly can't remember, I bought it a while ago. I know it shipped from China and looking at Amazon there are a few that are very similar and look like they work the same.
This one looks similar.
Unfortunately, those aren't available on Amazon US...so I found these: https://www.amazon.com/Bekith-Adjustable-Powerlock-Holder-Finish/dp/B01G3G7KDO/ref=sr_1_17?s=hunting-fishing&ie=UTF8&qid=1534031060&sr=1-17&keywords=fishing+rod+holder
They should give access to the rocker or whatever controls your particular hitachi has.
The pinch points are filleted so it's not too pinchy, certainly not worse then any of my other metal or wood bondage devices.
All the parts came from amazon. here are the straps.. So far they've stood up to durex lube, my cum and that bad dragon fake cum stuff, I dont know how they'll perform longterm. And that sounds like a great way to get measurements.
Sure! I used quick connect air fittings like these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073R7GG98/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_AGFGDG3DF1JVACFV2Q4P.
You can find them at any hardware store. For my design, I used a female side on the rod, and the male side for the back end of the dildo. You could easily make a hole in the back of the dildo and embed a fitting directly in it, but I didn't want to permanently alter the dildo. Instead, I attached the fitting to a small peice of wood, with a flat piece of ABS plastic attached to the other side. This provides a smooth surface for any suction cup toy to attach. The suction is secure enough that it stays on even at full speed.
If you'd like more info, I can PM you additional pictures of the setup.
This is the one I bought: Hismith
You can adjust from very slow to are you kidding me fast. Torque with no load at low speed will need some additional adjustment when putting under load...that is thrust for insertion. I typically get things lined up and slowly increase the speed (voltage) until the machine has enough torque to effectively insert itself. This also keeps you from treating your subject like a punching speed bag. Once inserted, adjust speed to appropriate level of squirm you desire.
At higher speed, it has enough torque to punch a hole or a nice thump. My only issue with the stroke is that it is very linear, meaning I wish it had a bit of pause at max insertion before pulling out. This will be something I will be modifying later so that it hits and stays firmly planted for a moment before withdrawing.
With any of these machines, there is a bit of subject adjustment that has to happen or if using with strict bondage, adjustment of the machine positioning.
I’ll share a little secret with all of you. These are effing awesome. Microphone shock mounts that are generic that have little squeeze clips to adjust the width when you insert a microphone or a toy. Hitachi works, most vibrators etc… the nice thing is it screws to standard microphone hardware and mic stands for positioning. https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Microphone-Suspension-Broadcasting-Voice-over/dp/B00C86FA0E
So there's two of these in the back of each board. So they accept any bolt with the same thread pattern to bolt them to anything! I'll get a picture of the back up on my page in a minute https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q6HKK45/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_oEhdGbN54AH6E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I hung a hammock in the spare room using these and I can quickly take down the hammock for suspension. No one questions the little hippy spare room
In person we have a dice game using colored dice and rules. Each player picks a color stack. And give rules say for the D4
1-Mouth 2-Hand 3-pussy/dick 4-ass
D6 1-lick 2-kiss 3-rub 4-etc
When it’s your turn you roll your dice, figure out the activity, and then if you want you can buy a chance for a change. Flip a coin on wether you give or receive the roll. Or whatever house rules you want to set up.
There’s also Loveretto which is like sexy monopoly online.
As already stated, a couple of rivets will fix that right up. However, rivets require special tools to install perfectly correct. I would recommend "Chicago screws" instead, as shown here: https://www.amazon.com/Chicago-Screws-Plain-Pcs-Silver/dp/B00355AN4U
All you need is a screwdriver, and they retain the look of flat rivets on the front side of the leather. Search around on any leather supply store like Tandy, or even Amazon, and you can get some.
Or if you don't mind PM'ing your mailing address to a random Reddit stranger, I'd be happy to toss a couple in an envelope and send them to you if you're in the US.
I got a tripod, it's actually a game hoist, that easily breaks down and can be stored in a 6' bag. When setup it takes up all of my small living room and when stowed it fits nicely in a closet. It works for an alternate to a cross or to hard points, and I absolutely love the cranking chink chink noise it makes when raising the hoist. I also love that it gives you access to all sides of your partner unlike a cross. I got mine from Amazon for $130 here:
Contact cement should hold up fine instead of sewing. Google "glue nylon webbing" for lots of advice there. Hot glue actually works fairly well too but will eventually give out.
Without glue or sewing there is probably some sort of slide adjuster that would hold up but all I can think of off the top of my head is using Twocam buckles to secure the webbing at the center and at the end where the attachment points are.
In any case you'll also need something in the center to wrap the straps around, like a welded ring or other suitably rigid object.
Since I wasn't looking to secure a door I bought a cheap one (but still overkill for my needs) from Amazon. It's only $30.
Since it's for door security, yes, it can be on for months/years without an issue. It only generates a little bit of heat, hardly noticeable.
As for the holding force, it's how the magnet is rated. They go higher (1200 to 2000lbs) but that's overkill for this purpose. I did test it would about 300lbs of force with weights and it didn't budge.
This might work for you. It can't be unlocked remotely but you're able to send the user time limited or single use combinations and/or Bluetooth "keys" to unlock it, assuming they have access to a smartphone.
If you need %100 wireless control there are plenty of wireless door locks on the market that could be built into a chest or cabinet with a little DIY ingenuity.
Out of curiosity, what were you unsatisfied with?
I assume you're talking about something cheap like this?
Do they break easily, aren't flexible (as in adjustable/modular) enough?
Still needs paint and some work on the handle for grip but overall it's an easy afternoon build.
The weight of the head at the end of the flexible carbon fiber shaft gives this some serious bite. Spiked side or flat it doesn't take much effort at all to make this one hurt and the spikes can break skin so practice and play safe. Dragged across the skin the spikes are great for sensation play too!
For added strength the shaft runs though the entire length of the handle through a modeled 3.5mm hole. There is a hole modeled into the base of the handle for a wrist strap or eye hook as well.
I printed the head and handle in Elegoo ABS-like resin at .06mm layer height. Print time on a Mars 2 was about 3.5 hours. Here's a link to the STLs if you want to print your own.
Regular epoxy glue or silicone adhesive is fine, either will bond nicely to the carbon fiber and resin. Krylon Fusion All-In-One gloss spray paint holds up really well on printed parts for play and leaves a smooth, even finish with a single coat.
No experience under my belt in this realm of diy but I've been looking at one of these as a starting point. Seems easy enough to modify and build a casing for it. Not the cheapest option but more elegant than some alternatives
I imagine long-term use would definitely be questionable given the price but as a base for a first-time build it's all there. If/when the motor does give out it would be easy enough to replace and put in something more robust.
we want to get a Shockspot 12" but want to play with something cheaper first. For the money this sort of thing seems like an adequate entry point.
This is the one I bought my wife. If you made one yourself you could have the single rod go back the opposite direction making it half the length. I might be making a chair with the parts from this and the sybian underneath.
https://www.amazon.com/Hismith-Premium-Machine-Wire-controlled-Dildo/dp/B01N6340A8
If you have access from the rear, then you could find some cabinet knobs which match or complement your tile. https://www.amazon.com/Amerock-BP53005-ORB-4-Inch-Diameter-Rubbed/dp/B000PD5ZOI/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2PON2UDMVG0UY&dchild=1&keywords=large+cabinet+knobs+bronze&qid=1609891562&sprefix=large+cabinet+knobs%2Caps%2C191&sr=8-5 I have these in my shower for the very vanilla purpose of hanging the loofa and back brush. These knobs normally come with threads or a threaded stud on the back. With a drill bit for ceramic tile and access to the back to add blocking where you want, place threaded anchors in the wall for the knobs and screw in. When you are ready for less vanilla activities, un screw the knobs and screw in eye bolts of the same thread size, and secure what ever you want to secure to those. Remove when done.
They're just from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZPVDXJ3/
They're decent. Don't clamp as hard as I would like, but the sort of sharp edges make them hurt a decent amount. And the whole "chain" of them makes a nice sound when I bring it out.
I've used these anchors. The ring part can be removed, leaving only the black disc on the furniture. Although, to be honest, I just leave the ring in. Like others have said, when you have a bunch of them, it tends to just look like it's part of the decoration.
Here's the link to the specific one I bought. This fits an 8 mm threaded rod. If you search for "heim joint" you can find these in any size you'd like.
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Bearing-Economy-Lubricating-Female/dp/B074SK162W
Thanks! Can't wait to show off the entire ensemble. It's faux leather sold as "vegan leather", "pleather" "PU leather" usually. I'd love to try cork leather but it's not easy to find in small, useful amounts.
I had a helluva time finding some that was thick enough to make durable restraints but this stuff does the trick. It's smooth on both sides, has a nice finished edge and has just a tiny bit of stretch. Unfortunately I haven't been able to find something of comparable thickness in wider straps or large sheets.
It’s heat shrink grip, they tend to use it on fishing rods. That with glue, then I used the biggest gas hob in the kitchen to shrink it to size.
Thank you! The main one I used is an adjustable strap cutter like this, and a rivet setter and anvil with steel double cap rivets 6mm long post (my leather was around 2.5-3mm thick, so doubled over on itself required 5-6mm). I used a combo of 1.5" and 1.25" O-rings for the hardware.
It's a thick silicone mat from Amazon. I chose this one specifically for the thickness and weight. It's 2mm where most are .5 - 1mm.
I've looked into using bike tires tube and other sorts of upcycled rubber too. I'd prefer that actually but I've yet to find something reliably odor free. I've seen cuffs and collars made from several layers of old bike tires but the lingering rubber smell is always present.
If budget is key (and you're just trying to beat PLA) you can do way better than 3 Pounds a pop. -->Here<-- are 8 Pcs for 10$ including mounting hardware.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PSHXYSL?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
We adjusted the wing nut until it worked.
https://www.reddit.com/r/estim/comments/vkk9jf/how_to_make_a_cheap_quiet_vacuum_pump/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3 not sure if you find this helpful. I actually use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PB8SRM/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 little bit more expensive but easy and quiet.
That's fantastic, thank you so much!
I've already got a number of vibrator controllers based on https://www.amazon.co.uk/DollaTek-NodeMcu-ESP8266-Development-Expansion/dp/B07DK68J37/ and they're so easy to use I'm thinking of using these to control the pump.
I'll investigate the options you mention for pressure-release systems, I just need to find the time to do it!
This is a really good idea. For the redesign, you could pop something like this onto it. You'd need to be careful about getting it exactly tight enough not to slip, without it accidentally hurting you. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K89DP2F/
A better alternative could be vinyl sheets. They come in a variety of colors and designs, are self adhesive, are waterproof, and will give a more professional uniform look. Vinyl sheets
Homend DC12V 30inch Stroke Linear... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08K45TL26?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
UYGALAXY Linear Actuator controller... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HN3Y6CT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I just looked back through my orders and it turns out I got those from amazon a while back, here’s the link
Hygiene is pretty good. If you look at the 3rd picture, you can see there are plenty of holes for air flow, cleaning and drainage. It makes it easy to keep clean. I also use one of these to clean: https://www.amazon.com/BONSEN-Flossers-Professional-Electric-Irrigator/dp/B08XV32PQ8/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=water+pick&qid=1663948141&sprefix=water+p%2Caps%2C200&sr=8-10
Go through the holes once with soapy water, and then again with clean water. It only takes ~5 minutes once you get used to it. You can do it in the shower easily enough.
And I do like it. As odd as it may sound, the best part is sleeping it in as it gives a nice snug feeling. There is enough room in the tube that erections feel squeezed, but not painfully. So I wake up every morning feeling like I am being toyed with, but unable to do anything about it. I don't know if other people would like it, but I enjoy it.
Also, you should get a deviant art account, they have the best pron.
I bought it somewhere else but it’s on Amazon. I wouldn’t recommend it. It is limited on angles and no height adjustment. It will come off to be hand self but a reciprocating saw works much better. Link
i used a beauty case.
https://www.amazon.de/SONGMICS-Kosmetikkoffer-Friseurkoffer-Schminkkoffer-JHZ01B/dp/B00DEV3N24/ref=sr_1_6?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=1E1RGN4VF3GV2&keywords=schminkkoffer+trolley&qid=1662707936&sprefix=schminkkoffer+trolley%2Caps%2C75&sr=8-6
good for toys you use often, cause you can move it to your playspace.
Storage Bench that I modified. I added a RFID lock to it to keep our toys away from prying eyes. Picked up some luggage straps that slip under the lid and can be used to bind a person down to the bench.
Planning on taking another bed and creating a hide away St. Andrews Cross but still noodling on it.
Always good to get experienced advice! I have exposed (but not open) 4x10 beams also, so have been pondering the best way. Do you just use one lag eye? I've been considering something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079KPNSMY but I'm not sure the hinge adds much value and 1/2" lag weight rating seems much better.
Nice and thick webbing. I bet this stuff could look really good with nice hardware. Maybe even as a leather alternative for gear like cuffs?
They are not that big, some such as this one have more speed control. It can be flipped, mounted, and it’s easy to attach a wide variety of things to it as well.
To kick up the vibrations a notch or 5 I’d look into a therapeutic massager.
EVA gym / workout / playroom matts are super easy to work with - it's what they make a lot of cosplay "armor" out of. It's usally 3/8" / 10mm thick, but easy to double up. Some versions come already doubled, like this one.
https://www.amazon.com/Norsk-240275-Reversible-Recyclamat-Multi-Purpose/dp/B002MXY79S
Swpeet 15Pcs M4 7 Star Through... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PKDPY1F?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I got them on Amazon and then went to home depot and matched the thread, you can choose different diameters (m4,m5…). On the backside I used t-nuts to keep the bolts from falling through. You can use small nuts to hold them in but they were out so I improvised. I originally used 10 (you can see the holes above the bottom 2) but I didn’t account for the diameter of the through knobs so they were hitting. I guess I used that many because I was looking for a nice even pressure. Might be overkill but it the first round. Going to play with it for a bit and see if I need to tweak anything. The tie down board is my updated one.
I bought these two items specifically for that. Haven’t tried them yet, so I can’t speak to their effectiveness.
Reciprocating Saw Sex Machine... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0983862M6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Hismith Suction Cup Adapter with... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NZRQ8VP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Buy a set of leather chisels (and a mallet).
Something like this will work. There is even a video on the product page...
https://www.amazon.com/Weaver-Leathercraft-Stitching-Stainless-67-7252/dp/B07GNMYB33/
E-Z LOK - 903816-25 E-Z Lok Threaded Insert, Zinc, Hex-Flanged, 3/8"-16 Internal Threads, 25mm Length (Pack of 25) - For Soft Wood https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002WC8TVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MQZPA71YCKDD69M5RSDD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=
1.Find a stud on each side of the bed. 2.get 2 of these:
And 2 of these :
The simply cut a hole shaped like the black mounting plates and screw it to studs(between drywall and stud) mount the eye bolts sideways into the studs and cover with the cover plates
BUSHNELL MO10112 Uncle Mikes Quick Detach have a look at these. They are removable.
Swivels QD 100 Push Button, Black https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000MF7O2A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BD6VVA51CSBXMHNTCHVZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Amazon has 2 packs for $15Fyjennicc locks
These Doggystyle straps work perfectly for this. The padded portion goes behind your neck, and the straps have adjustable loops that hold on to your thighs. Not the intended use, but they work great.
Second picture includes a design for 1” straps. I’m hoping I can make a literal bra to wear around the house. The underside has a hole so that I can fit nipple clamps through the opening. I specifically designed so the linked clamps would nestle into place and put more strain on my nipples.
This would do what you need...just need to step down the voltage.
Gikfun 12V DC Dosing Pump Peristaltic Dosing Head with Connector For Arduino Aquarium Lab Analytic Diy AE1207 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IUVHB8E/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_QTR2PTSMWVB9YW1760S0
This book is a good start. Detailed instructions on making your own patterns The Artisan's Book of Fetishcraft: Patterns and Instructions for Creating Professional Fetishwear, Restraints and Sensory Equipment https://www.amazon.com/dp/093760965X/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_VKWZ3216A52CM6G9AA6B
I'm working on a project to add them to this table.
I'm going to use the same technique I did for my workout bench mod and use 2020 extruded aluminum and 90 degree brackets.
I'll use the bold spots that hold the bed to the frame.
Let me know if you want more info.
thanks, here is the link for the one I've used
​
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q98QFT8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
Do you know the voltage of the PI Shocker?
Also do you feel it has a lot of security being over the internet, IP address etc..? I feel like a few months back there was something in the papers about someone hacking wifi/bluetooth toys
​
thanks
I already sanded down the corners and edges. I put down batting. Here’s a link to what I’m talking about.
Mybecca 24 Inch Wide (1 Yard) Quilt Batting Multipurpose Dacron Fiber Polyester Wadding Fabric Loft Upholstery Grade Padding 36" x 24" (2' x 6') https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NUHDGXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_B5MHF8G8QRVAQJW1NWMA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Give a look at this, this is what I use to carry most stuff
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08P2PSRQN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you are looking for storage, and not carrying I suggest this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07432XN1R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can customize the slot as you wish
Leatherworker here. Here you go. This is what i use. They cone in many shapes and sizes.
I just got an assorted set of fake leather belts from Amazon. Cheap but does the trick.
Sex Bondage for BDSM Restraints Sex Toys for Adults Men Women Couples Subdued Full Body Strap Set with Two Padlock Extended Belts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088H794K5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_K46ENMVX6TYV9QJ5RWBE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Amazon has one for $40.
> pad eye plate
good to know the term! I bought these https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Ceiling-ULIFESTAR-Hanging-Hardware/dp/B08PCQTC15/
and they are mounted stealthily to the underside of an ottoman for some nice attachment points :)
I would say if you're mounting to particle board, just be aware of the direction of the force applied to them, and also how much force you're really looking to put on each one, especially given that you'll never really be pulling on just a single point.
I use something similar to this on my walls but usually the wood on IKEA furniture is shit.
You can always try to find some screws that match the whole ikea theme... If they're all in similar locations and all you can see is the head of a socket cap screw like these, then nobody will give it a second thought.
The thing used to heat baby feeding bottles (not sure how it's named in English) would be nice to heat it. It's a bit expensive new, but tons of people have one they don't use anymore.
https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Temperature-Control-Automatic-Shut-Off/dp/B0876T9DQZ/ref=sr\_1\_20?crid=32L7IPAHIKDJS&keywords=chauffe%2Bbiberon%2Bavent&qid=1644502767&sprefix=chauffe%2Bbiberon%2Bavent%2Caps%2C125&sr=8-20&th=1
I was looking at this product on Amazon and had wondered if it would be safe to hit someone with. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001449JMG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_EFD9ZT0JMC43Y58Y810E I figured the black would be a good choice but without knowing if it’s body safe I’m hesitant. I still have to add the decorative knots to the handle too.
Plastidip. It's a liquid rubber product for coating tool handles. You can buy it at Lowe's, Home Depot, etc, and comes in several colors. You dip the handle in, pull it out, let it cure and you have a great non slip grip. Works on canes, paddles, knives, etc. They make a spray version, but the original dip works great. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009YO1HWS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glc_i_F2XDVRKPMV540N2BSDZZ
I just bought these ratcheting paracord pulleys to rig up a canopy while camping but they might work for what you’re trying to do. These have snap links on other end and could be pulled tight and quickly released.
I think these have a lot of potential in collars and cuffs for 'unbound' bondage requiring someone to hold a certain position.
https://www.adafruit.com/product/173
There is also these: https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Transmitter-Receiver-Arduino-Raspberry/dp/B00LNADJS6/ref=asc_df_B00LNADJS6/
With which you can transmit on radio frequency 433, commonly used by cheap wireless vibrators and dog shock collars.
I am experimenting with using rtlsdr to detect button presses from the factory remotes, then transmist them from the Arduino. I will share the code that works and the models it works with.
I haven't had a chance to do any testing, but I have been thinking about a very similar design.
One thought that I see mentioned in an earlier comment is what I had thought of to initially try: integrating the "blocks" with either the top or bottom (not sure which would be better), and having two separate pieces. They should be much easier to take in/out that way. My only concern is that you would have to get the sizing just right, so that the teeth can't easily slip off the side if you move your jaw. But maybe this isn't that big of a concern as I'm thinking?
As far as bonding, I'm not sure if something like this would work? https://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-6-oz/dp/B004MFLU4Y
I am considering using this for the entire thing and molding it to the teeth. However, you might be able to use it to mechanically join your pieces by molding it into your holes. Once it dried, it would sort of act as plastic rivets.
My ice cream scoop has regularly been confused with a sex toy.
Tovolo Tilt Up Ice Cream Scoop, Ergonomically Balanced Handle, Chrome Plated, Dishwasher Safe, White https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00395DD20/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_381ZBTBG49VD5S0BBT2D
I have an aluminum shrimp deveiner... Sounds weird but because it's metal, it can add to the temperature play aspect, getting cold or hot. It works well for scraping wax from the skin and if wax play with a partner there's the fact that it resembles a knife which is a lovely little mindfuck. Also, they're cheap...
1 X Cast Aluminum Shrimp Deveiner and Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002U6KTU8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_3NQG6VPH851DWWBJT1WF
I've made some toys that had handles that were not very "finished" looking... Using a dowel, wrapped with paracord, grip tape etc. I wasn't happy with the way my rigged handles looked but I ordered some heat shrink tubing and it makes for a much more polished look, plus it adds to the grippiness. I ordered this kind but there are lots of options.
GLL Heat Shrink tubing, Long 3.2 ft, Big Size 15-50mm, Insulation Non-Slip Waterproof https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08VRDJSJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_B9DM1HVT38MQ7C00S5YX?psc=1
I recently made a folding version of this. Made it out of 3/4” plywood and then upholstered the “seat”. Used folding brackets for stability and to aid in storage. The build is pretty straight forward. Cut 3 pieces of 3/4” plywood. 2 for the legs (11”x19”), and 1 for the seat (24”x19”). So it sits about a foot off the ground. I’m version 1 I cut an oval shape in the seat but then changed to a U shape which is a lot better. I was originally worried about a U shape allowing too much flex with my dimension but 3/4” plywood solved that. Then after paint and upholstery, I fastened the legs to the bottom of the seat with the brackets. The brackets lock into place when extended so it’s stable. Buy collapse when not in use. Hope this helps!
Folding Brackets - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BHKB6CN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KHA2Y18JMR668970YHXE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Foam - Medium Density Upholstery Foam 1”. From Amazon. Upholstery - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087JFCRLN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GSTNMN9SGFQKFRQ5F7RP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
My version came without any of the D rings attached, so you can see I added a number of Home Depot D rings to the box. I haven’t built a platform riser for it as of yet, but it’s on the to do list. Finally, if you use the D ring on the front of the box to attach a collar, it makes holding one’s head up over any extended time extremely difficult. For scenes where neck endurance training isn’t desired, I also just got a stand alone massage table head rest for the sub to be able to put their face into. Headrest
Would this style of lock not work, it’s not subject to a potential electrical fault, just magnets…
Wood burnishers! They aren’t big ( about 5.2 inches) so if you have large hands you might have to find something different i think : Wood Leather Burnisher Tool –... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088JZNWPJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Oh ok that explains it.
I have no real life experience in tinkering with anything like this but here are my thoughts.
Anything that fixed the jaw ( ring/spider gag, firm ball-gag etc. ) will make it really hard to suck the liquid out.
That made me think about squishy things. That inflatable gag from u/reluctant2wander looks like a good idea.
My thoughts then wandered around things that are already used for similar things. Hence pacifiers. Or penis gags like that Penis-GAG. Modifying a Mask with breathing holes might be tricky and much more expensive. But if the optics dont matter, gluing a silicone tube to a patch of leather and adding some D-Rings to it or something alike should do the trick, right?
Maybe those tubes can be fitted to the inforced ones that lead to the bad.
Depending on the evilness one might add a valve to the tube like on real IV drips. Or by squeezing the tube in any other way.
Master Series Inflatable Butterfly Gag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BGBOLI4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_HRJHXS23T1XZ5KSA4YEJ
This is the style I was thinking of in my head. It stays in without a strap so would allow more options for a hood or blindfold
I’ve been using these types of RAM mounts and it works well in certain cases. RAM Mounts RAP-B-400U Tough-Claw Small Clamp Base with Ball with B Size 1" Ball for Rails 0.625" to 1.5" in Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQNRTDI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_V2YE0WZ6ZXKZV66Q7PKJ
https://www.amazon.com/St-Andrews-Cross-BDSM/dp/B077WCSNL5
That looks like a half lap with 4 screws and wing nuts for quick assembly/disassembly. That's basically all you need.
You could also modify any plans you find by using "threaded inserts", which allows you to use stuff like 1/4-20 bolts in wood.
My thought is instead of a movable wall use a fixed wall call it a closet or utility room and cover holes and mounting points with Multi Panel art.
as for covering i know they make foam fake brick panels, use Velcro for easy replacement
I'm thinking something like this, controlled via PWM so they can be run at very slow speeds to avoid injury, bungee cords are a great idea to improve safety though!
r/vacbed has a few threads, and there is a couple here.
They aren't ideal but I have use these with some success.
As other people said, brass or plastic or rubber coated. Also, this style of construction is an easy way for the hardware to not contact your skin (other than the rivets maybe, but they can be easily covered inside with felt or whatever) https://www.amazon.com/Strict-Leather-Suede-Lined-Bondage/dp/B008L1BVBW