It’s a tempered glass side panel, which means it will be much more heat resistant than standard window glass. You will not have an issue with that.
From a user formerly point of view, hot glass can be painful, having the hot air ejected up/down with definitely help with that.
As it is a short card, you should have no issue finding a suitable verticals mount. There are two kinds: - Mod free, such as this. These increase the length of the card, but you don’t need to cut your case.
I got these to fix the ones that didn't fit and they worked perfectly
I have one. You can just buy any small screen, and Windows will detect it as a second monitor. At that point, you can choose to use Aida 64, NZXT's Cam software, HWinfo64, or Rainmeter + a skin to show any data about your PC that you'd like.
When looking, I'd suggest finding one which gets it's power also through it's HDMI connection. That way, you only have to worry about one cord.
I grabbed this one, but there are a ton of options and sizes to suit your needs:
Depending on where you're displaying it and such, you may want to get a case for it so the PCB isn't showing and it looks nice. I didn't put mine in the PC itself, but in a cool looking picture frame on my desk.
As you now know thats a usb-c header connector. Unless you have a msi mb,new asrock, or high end asus you don't have that connector. No need to have a dead USB header. You can get a USB 3.1 to USB-c adapter. An example for 12 bucks. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GYFCNK9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MDp.FbTR37233
The performance is not as good as the real thing but still good.
You can kind of cob it already. I have cheap Led strips set up as LL fans with corsair adapters from Jdog on ebay. The fans actually have more Leds than corsair strips so it makes more sense to set 3rd party strips up as fans. As long as you pay attention to the wattage and have multiple comander pros you could do it.
These are the strips i used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BKNS7DJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1jKeFb789MDAV
I cut them into 96 led strips and set as 6 LL fans
Had two break already keep the box for RMA they are good enough to even deal with a couple RMAs.
Also these cups are super comfy https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HYK5FCG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Where?? link please...
nevermind found it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08QSNNV5H
as someone with 8 other corsair products this was an instant buy for me.
EZDIY-FAB Adapter Cable for Corsair Lighting Node Pro and for Corsair iCUE Commander PRO (hub is not Included), Smart RGB Lighting, Connect to Any 5V 3-Pin ARGB Devices (2 x 20cm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KGMZ9YT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_nYLaGbSSP83TC
The last time I heard anything about using Corsair Link with HWiNFO64, the interlocks the software (Corsair Link) uses to poll data from the SMBus/motherboard/CPU sensors were in direct conflict with the generally accepted global values every other software uses (HWiNFO64 for example). This was stated as a "won't fix" due to it breaking Corsair Link functionality with their Light Loop Fans. Source here.
Since iCUE is an integrated Corsair Link/Corsair Utility Engine, and can essentially control all Corsair hardware, I imagine this holds true that the locks are still not using the globally accepted mutex locks. Essentially, this means using iCUE and ignoring other software, or closing iCUE when using other monitoring software, including the related Services iCUE depends on in Task Manager.
You can disable/remove the HWiNFO64 driver and maybe resolve this issue. Make sure the Persistent Driver checkbox isn't selected under Driver Management in the Settings.
Mumak (Martin), the HWiNFO developer's thoughts on Corsair/iCUE are HERE - Playing Nice With Corsair iCUE? on the HWiNFO Forums.
I used these to organize cables. You can also get Gorilla brand mounting tape that can attach your surge protector on the underside of the desk, and I’ve found that to help a TON.
Can find them on amazon.com too not sure if in UK. I use these ones on my k95 xt. Can also be found by the same brand on ebay.
i've got the same , i buy this earcups : https://www.amazon.com/Earpads-Compatible-Virtuoso-Wireless-Headset/dp/B08HYL7RB1/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Earpads+Compatible+with+Virtuoso+RGB+Wireless+SE+Gaming+Headset&qid=1626517605&sr=8-1 ,he dont rubs anymore against my ear
edit: dont worry it work with the xt
I used 3M Dual Lock for mine. Worked perfectly, and I didn't have to deal with that magnet setup. The idea isn't bad, but the magnets aren't nearly strong enough to hold the strips well. If you bump the monitor, everything crashes down. lol
I this on amazon and just ordered it today. I'll let you know how they fit on my k70 if you wanna consider gettin them yourself
I specifically used Havit Keycaps and YMDK for the bottom row. But as u/Lobanium said, it's probably cheaper to use just YMDK and it's basically the same thing, but yeah I'll link what I used below...
darkFlash V22. Never heard of it before purchasing it but it seemed interesting for $60
That's what it looks like when a connection is not secure. I have a lot of non Corsair products and rather than keep making adapter cables, for some I just brute force the Corsair male side onto a JST female. It's usually fine but sometimes it can be loose enough to start flickering like that. Same thing with my Thermaltake Pacific R1 RAM cover only a lot worse because it can come loose waaaay easier. Don't know why they didn't go with a standard 5v 3pin and went with their rectangular one instead, but it's always loose because of it. I now have it taped on to this https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-PMMA-Magnetic-Standoff-Controller/dp/B07T9CK37Y/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=addressable+rgb+splitter+hub&qid=1611376551&sr=8-8 because it would slip out roughly two thirds of the time when I'd put my side panel back on. Not saying that's your problem but when I get flickering, the connections is the first thing I check.
I recommend using NZXTs USB hub, although there are some off brand alternatives on Amazon.
For installation, you would plug your commander pro into the usb hub, then the hub plugs into an available 9 pin usb header on your motherboard.
It is normal for the cheap stock caps. Mine came off even typing. They are so cheap and flimsy that the switch connector stretches out and/or breaks. The solution is to get a pbt keycaps set like this
Edit: more info
Probably their T1 Gaming Chair if I had to guess. Their newer one is the T3.
Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-CF-9010011-Gaming-Racing-Design/dp/B077HDH76X
That's the only chair they have with both "T" and "1" in the name.
Here's a link to the desk. Only $130 on Amazon and the build quality is really great. I'm happy with it. The posters are all from Blizzon 2016. I bought them all from each game and framed them.
On Amazon, YMDK offered a Corsair bottom row: Black Corsair Bottom
The YMDK full set can be found here: YMDK PBT Black Pudding Double Shot Key Caps
GPU Brace support for the heavy ones. The RGB is addressable and controlled with MOBO software.
It was a Philippine mechanical keyboard group in facebook. I think the seller of this got this from taobao. I also found some sellers in AliExpress
I detest iCUE. Never works properly. Gave up on it & have been using a program called SIV (system information viewer) to control my LL120 fans & RGB strips.
Works well & have had zero issues.
I’d go with this right here. . The long version Is available, They aren’t available now but I have 2 of the 400mm version. You will need this to make them work with the commander pro and RGB hub because it has the standard RGB 3 prong thing at the end. You then just tell ICUE it’s a Ls100 strip and boom a cheap alternative. You just have to be careful because I think 2 400mm are the max number of LEDs that will work in a series. I think they are thinner and easier to snake around the case it looks awesome nice and diffused.
Or angle brackets to redirect them. CY ATX 8Pin Female to 8pin Male 180 Degree Angled Adapter for Desktops Graphics Card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P5R258Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YE7NF128PSH82M0T2ZRH
Here you go.
EZDIY-FAB Premium PC RGB LED Strips ,Addressable LED Strip Kit ,5V 3Pin Motherboard Sync- 2X 15.75 inches Smooth Lighting Strip and Mounting Clip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BRGL9D5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NRCP4FD2G6D08Z3Q7GQW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
PWM splitters. These take 3 connections down to 1. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F8LV1BY/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_glt_i_1J14HVFMV99GHS95PYCE
USB Header splitter. Most motherboards only have 2 USB headers and you're gonna need at least one more. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085KVH16T/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_glt_i_M3SNVEMQPNXRH4B4CT46?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Don't worry about the RGB. Those will be controlled through the node/hub and the Commander. Doesn't matter which one you use for the lighting except to make sure you have all the same type of fans on their own hub (all MLs on the hub, and all QLs on the Commander, for example). By using the splitters for the PWM side of the fans you'll be able to change the fan speeds from iCue, however, the fans that are on the splitters (3 MLs and the 2 QLs) will not be controllable individually. Say you have 3 MLs on one splitter going to port 1 on the Commander, they will show up as 1 fan. So if you change the speed on port one, all 3 fans will change simultaneously. Make sense?
this is the item I use for the Desktop Management.
I also shared my cable management above the desk before
In General the cables are just stick in the spacings of it. The exception is the Charge cable of my charge pad that comes from a different diirection and holds the cables in Position. They are sticked to the table and still can be opened completely on the back or also just be slided to the side .
Cooler Master Universal Vertical Graphics Card Holder KIT VER.2 with 165mm/6.5in Riser Cable, for Full Tower / Standard ATX Chassis with at Least 7 Available PCI Slots https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08DRS5NLR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_AP493BKVDQE3JJ62RRWK
Thanks! I am using a vivo dual vertical mount from Amazon. This one here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083G8GDGD
The top monitor is an Acer predator X34P 34 inch ultrawide, bottom is an Alienware 3821dw 38inch ultrawide.
TRENDnet AC1900 High Power Dual Band Wireless USB Adapter, Increase-Extend WiFi Wireless Coverage, Stream 4K HD Video, Windows-Mac OS Compatible, USB 3.0 to USB Type A, Black, TEW-809UB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EOQ61KI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SAZVX90ANPFG36TPR9N4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Think this would work?
It's not the exact model but this is very similar to the screen I have: https://www.amazon.ca/Longruner-Raspberry-1024X600-Display-Protective/dp/B07VFMJT3B
I'm ok in terns of USB connections, I don't think I need a hub. I only have one USB 2 header on the motherboard but I have a Corsair Commander Pro in the back that has 2 USB 2 header I'm using to connect a lighting node pro and lighting node core.
I know this sounds crazy, but....
I used this on a build for a friend, they wanted all white but didn't want to void the warranty like you stated below by not using the nvidia cables. We used this to wrap the cable and then a white pull cable tie to the the tightness around the cable, but it works and it doesn't look bad.
Here's a tip for anyone who's also considering using the LS100 as either desk strips or monitor strips: Don't use the little magnetic plates that come with them for mounting. They're absolute garbage. The magnets are super weak and often times the weight of the strip itself is enough to cause them to start sagging. Instead, invest in some of these Cable Management clips Much more secure, much less hassle to place.
Being that I'm using the stop heatsink cover of the motherboard it doesn't come with a lower heatsink to attach another strip of padding. The temps you saw were of just one sided thermal pad use. I used the 2mm version of the one I linked you.
When I built my dad's PC I purchased this heatsink and the thermal pad I linked before on both the bottom and top of the m.2 drive.
I don't think there is an official replacement, but thankfully you can find compatible ear pads from off brand retailers on amazon. These are the ones I bought to replace the original ear pads, but you can find others. They're not cheap though, and it kind of sucks that you have to shell out $20-$30 just because those cheap, brittle hooks broke. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HYL7RB1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_RBCRHJVXKJJWG4DD0V61?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks fo feedback. Just ordered these today to make it look better:
I saw this and immediately thought of another build I have seen that had special fan bracket for under GPU mounting but it came with 2 brackets that attach the fans together. If you are interested in something other the zip ties for the future this might work well for you. Just thought I would share. Love the mod and love the fans! Honestly for 10 dollars more you would be crazy not to get the QLs over the LLs. If you decide to try the brackets let me know how it goes!
I am confused, do these include a corsair k95 compatible bottom row, or would I have to buy the bottom row separately. Cheers
Here is the page im looking at https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CB8D2YB?th=1
Yes YMDK definitely has them, and better yet YMDK fixes the issue with Corsair's odd bottom row
If you’re looking for pudding caps in Corsair configuration you can get them here(US).
YMDK PBT Double Shot Shine Through ANSI ISO Pudding Keyset Suitable for MX Mechanical Keyboard Corsair Razer Ducky SF KBD75 Tada68 DZ60 (Black Pudding Full Set)(Only Keyset) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08CB8D2YB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KN3V1S74M8X5Y3J4TRH4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Microphone Arm Stand, TONOR Adjustable Suspension Boom Scissor Mic Stand with Pop Filter, 3/8" to 5/8" Adapter, Mic Clip, Upgraded Heavy Duty Clamp for Blue Yeti Nano Snowball Ice and Other Mics(T20) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082W4B7SX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_ZqXaGbKQ7YNBT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I just bought this one:
I'm hoping it works, but can't confirm yet. I don't know why it wouldn't.
If you use the vertical mounting of this case, you'll need to buy a riser cable and your gpu temps would suffer from the gpu fans being very close to the tempered glass side panel and not getting that much air through.
The only viable option in my opinion is to go with a vertical mount such as this : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BWZCY56/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_xFV3FbJFZHZTR
These kind vertical mounts also include a riser already and also giving the gpu more room to breath by taking it away from the tempered glass side panel.
Personally I like the horizontal positioning with a anti-gpu sag bracket.
You can get the bottom row from here
I have the hyperx pudding keycaps mixed with this bottom row and you can’t tell the difference between the keys. :)
The tricky part is the SL part of the connector aka belt buckle, this isn't needed and only serves to keep the connector in so you could easily use something like
Alternatively, If you've got a soldering iron you could make them quite easily yourself; personally I'd make them myself as you can source the crimp connectors and housings quite easily
Thats what mine did, so I replaced it. My battery was swollen to 2x thickness. The battery is in the left earcup, quite easy to do, but its got annoying security screws, so make sure you have the right bit 👍
Your looking for this, those dimensions will fit, get the highest mAh you can find. Make sure it has the 3 wires though (many have 2, the 3rd wire is a temp probe which apparently is required - I can't confirm that or not, but just incase get it)
You can get a battery quite allot bigger if you leave the tray out, and secure it with tape or something.
It even says thats its no real pcie 4.0 cable on the discription :
Just FYI, YMDK makes double shot PBT putting keycaps that fit Corsair keyboards with the non-standard bottom row.
Pudding means the bottom half of the keycaps are translucent so you can see the color shine through. Those are the ones I bought. Here are mine.
> I bind my discord/VOIP program mute mic/headphones
I used a foot pedal for my push to talk. This one I think, on Amazon. However, I've got a set of rudder pedals coming, which take both my feet. You sir have solved my problem.
Now all I need to do is get Ol' Left Pinky trained up!
Don’t use water!
Okay buy a key puller tool, they are like $6.00 on Amazon.
First take a picture of your keyboard to help with reassemble.
Next unplug your keyboard and pull off all your key caps using the key puller tool.
Use compressed air to blow away the loose debris
Using a microfibre cloth and 99.9% isopropanol alcohol sparingly wipe away the grime and oil.
Clean each key cap by soaking them in the isopropyl alcohol while cleaning your keyboard base.
Wait for all the alcohol to evaporate on your components.
Reassemble the keys using the picture you took of your keyboard.
Replug in and make sure everything is working correctly.
Sure! It works great, only gripe is that you can’t dim the clock but you can turn off the display at least.
Gerintech LED Desk Lamp Dimmable... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078K9RN4K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
it's this one . and no it's just a regular matte wall, not even really white. kind of an off white or light tan even
Thanks man, linked below. Its runs just like an argb light strip so works with whatever software your mobo uses. PCIE Adapter
For the mousepad, its the MM800 RGB Polaris. Link is here: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01LFGOH6A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kMWdFbJ933K7E
And the mouse is the M65 Elite RGB Optical FPS Gaming Mouse. The link is here dood: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07KM88Y1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LNWdFb33NYQDS
Really went crazy with the corsair products 😂
Just from a pc store here in Australia. https://www.amazon.com/XPG-512GB-Gen3x4-Internal-AS40G-512GT-C/dp/B07SKG68CB/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=adata%2Bspectrix%2Brgb%2Bnvme&qid=1596849464&sr=8-1&th=1&psc=1 .You can get it here on amazon. It’s controlled by msi mystic lights, other mobo software works for it too.
Found the 360mm one listed on Amazon...
Says it'll release on Jan 13th
AIO’s aren’t my first choice from Corsair. Honestly it could be the liquid inside the tubes. I recently went from an H60 to the Noctua NH-D15 Air Cooler, shit is nice when used with the Chromax black fans to replace the ugly beige/brown vanilla ones. I will tell you it’s probably time for a replacement.
My PC setup also includes the i7-6700k, it keeps the temps at 32 at idle and between 60-70 depending on the stress load of the game.
I'm glad you posted I just got a new Qi charger for the mouse that isn't corsair branded and half the price that seems to actually work! If you are in the market for a charger for your mouse check this out.
I could have sworn it worked in the "RGB" header. It won't work for the rgb fan section though.
I have the node, commander pro and core xt. I believe I have one set up to my rgb header on the core xt
Yes, you can control the strimmers with iCue, you need these iCue adapter cables (they come in a two-pack). I used these to control strimmers in iCue in a previous build when I still liked having RGB on everything. Obviously, Lian Li Strimmers aren't a choice in the hardware selection pull-down menus in iCue, you have to pick an RGB strip so iCue thinks this is what you are adding. It works ok, but it's not perfect, you have to play around with it depending on how complicated the effect is.
You can order the accessories kit from here https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-%7C-Parts/iCUE-5000X-5000D-5000D-AIRFLOW-Accessory-Kit/p/CC-8900518
You could also reach out to Corsair directly through the support channels. It would take more time but they may just send you a kit if you ask nicely.
Also you could order a PC spare screw kit off Amazon that should work as well https://www.amazon.com/Standoffs-Assortment-Universal-Motherboard-Installation/dp/B09BD7Y13P/ref=asc_df_B09BD7Y13P/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=563548498710&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15822586290697790318&hvpone=&hvpt...
Hope this helps, newfiend
You have the older RGB style that is not supposed to be removable, IIRC. This isn’t the Cappellix one which has a swappable face plate.
This one right?
Is there some reason you're so set on UV strips? I mean do you have something that is specifically reactive to UV light you're trying to light? Also those wide beam are nice and all but you can get just as much of not more light from denser LED per meter strips. Those cablemod are only 30 per meter and they're pretty expensive, so in my book there's better options. I've used these in the 4 60 LED each towers I made. 60 because that's all ICUE could address per lighting channel when I made them. They hadn't added their LS100 to ICUE yet. The taller towers have 100 per meter and the smaller side have 144. So for only 22 bucks you can get little over 3ft, that can be cut down too if you want, instead of just around a foot of those cablemod strips. Just thought you might like some other options.
That link says it's 200mm... I wonder if 150mm would be fine with the closer vertical mount. As far as weight, I have a light gpu card. (3060 ventus 3 - getting replaced early next year.)
Phanteks has this one on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PH-CBRS4-0_FL15-gen4-0-Degree-Adapter/dp/B09RXMBLT4/ref=sr_1_11?crid=1X7MYSRDPUOJ9&keywords=pcie+4.0+cable&qid=1670021940&s=electronics&sprefix=pcie+4.0+cabl%2Celectronics%2C74&sr=1-11&ufe=ap...
What do you think of this one?
lol Had to look that up. I didn't even know they tried to venture into the lighting world. It's in stock at Amazon as well as that seller's site which is a good company, I've ordered directly from them almost half a dozen times.
It can be done by connecting the lian li to a Corsair controller’s 3 pin rgb connection with a cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/EZDIY-FAB-Adapter-Lighting-Commander-Included/dp/B08KGMZ9YT. With the V2 cables, you need to run the lian li software each time you boot up to set the controller into “motherboard mode” and then you can control it as a 3 pin lighting effect in icue.
I have two strimer cables like op and my lian li controller is plugged into a icue commander pro.
Sadly they're unavailable. I bought them mid-2021
lol You're calling 2 different controllers the same thing. There's the Commander pro and then there's 2 different version of the Commander Core. One that comes with some Corsair AIO coolers which is the Commander Core, and the one one sold separately which is the Commander Core XT. That sounds like what you bought. Both Co Cores have fan detection so you can mix the ML fans that came with your AIO and the 3 LL you bought, without issues. (With older Corsair controllers it was one fan signal type per controller so you couldn't easily mix fan types)
You won't need either of your motherboard lighting headers. (the 12v RGB and 5v ARGB) Corsair uses USB to run the data instead which will plug into your motherboard's internal USB 2.0 header. So yes all your fans will be run to the Co Core XT and you'll control speed and lighting with ICUE.
I had this issue and bought this
and it solved it, it's more than likely because of the USB header on the motherboard but that box should fix it :)
For fan headers try to squeeze on both sides of the connector. If it resists, a small precision flat head screw driver can push it forward, or use a pair of these Never pull on the wires alone to unplug.
Sorry for the late late reply, but are these the key caps that would a k100?
you can get silicone anti dust cover plugs
ahh thank you. with your extra devices it makes sense. i'm only using the small commander core that comes included with corsair cases. i was hoping there was a method without having to buy more parts.
although i did just notice the commander core has an oddly placed RGB connector. is is possible to hook the RGB of a fan to that, and the other wire directly to a fan header on the mobo?
USB to Android, Headset does not work on PhoneCalls
i own the HS80 Headset with its USB doungle.
I tried to connect it to my Android phone with one of the USB-A to C Adapters.
When playing a Youtube-Video, i can hear the sound on the headset. But as soon as i try to use it on a phone-call it seems not to work.
Samsung Galaxy S9: Does not even show an option to switch between Phone and Headset, sound comes thorugh speakers.
Huawei P20 Lite: Shows option to switch, but on Headset sound does not work at all
Does anyone have similar experiences?
and nowdays motherboards have the 3.2 2x2 connector so I guess this kit would stop at 3.1.. If you purchased the kit, do you think just the type c cable can be replaced with something like this (of course removing it from the metal plate first) https://www.amazon.co.uk/LINKUP-Motherboard-Extension-Key-Connector-Type-C-Panel-Right-Angle-060cm/dp/B085J361B9
Looks like a void headset, check the link for replacing the ear cups.
It looks like the edge that connects the ear cup to the headset is torn. You should refer to the video to replace it.
Not sure what you mean by accompanying Commander. If you're out of internal USB headers the best to pair with Corsair controllers is the NZXT internal USB hub.
It would help if you explain how you have things connected. Did you buy the LL in a fan packs and are using the controller that came in the pack? How many fans in total are you trying to connect?
I love mine (I have the XT as well), but as other comments said, the earcups are terrible. After just an hour of use my ears were killing me, and I have a small head and ears, so I can't imagine anyone with a big head or ears using them.
That said, I got these exact earcups from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B099847YL9
They're super soft, comfy, and I wear them for 8+ hours a day without any sort of fatigue. They also don't change the sound profile, so it still sounds just as good.
Also, if you want some good general equalizer settings, here are mine:
The sound will vary based on headsets, but it should be a good baseline.
So, I bought this https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-Premium-Individually-Sleeved-Corsair/dp/B07L67QYRW/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=corsair+premium+psu+cable+kit&qid=1665823181&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIzLjQwIiwicXNhIjoiMi41NiIsInFzcCI6IjIuMzMifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=corsiar+pre%2Cap...
from amazon but I am not sure if this cable support both RMX series RM1000x PSU and HX1000 platinum.
Will i have any compatibility issue with those PSU?
So, I bought this https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-Premium-Individually-Sleeved-Corsair/dp/B07L67QYRW/ref=sr\_1\_2?keywords=corsair+premium+psu+cable+kit&qid=1665823181&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIzLjQwIiwicXNhIjoiMi41NiIsInFzcCI6IjIuMzMifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=corsiar+pre%2C...
from amazon but I am not sure if this cable support both RMX series RM1000x PSU and HX1000 platinum.
Will i have any compatibility issue with those PSU?
You're welcome. The only thing I don't like about them is they have connectors on both ends. I'd prefer if I didn't have to hide the ends next to the pump. They're tucked with the clips that come with it and hidden when I sit, but when standing and looking in I can see them. But it's not really a big deal.
I have them running off Corsair's ICUE with an adapter cable. Everything except the GPU brace which is just a simple 12v RGB single LED product, is also run off ICUE that way. Them, the mirror, and RAM cover are run to this kind of powered splitter box. Box to Corsair adapter cable. Adapter to a Corsair Lighting Node Pro. I love ICUE and it's ability to program down to each individual LED. It lets you make your own modes. And you can layer multiple modes on top of each other.
I have a K68 mechanical keyboard, and over the years a lot of the keys have been worn and are loose. I want to get new keycaps, but I'm aware Corsair has some weird bottom row thing. Will these keycaps fir the K68? The picture has a different sized FN key, but that isn't a key I need to replace. It's the d, both ctrl keys, and the arrows I need to replace.
It only comes with 2 cables. My older RM850X came with 3. Don't ask me why Corsair started to give 2 on the later model. As shown here in cable list pic, they call it 4x because there is 2 cables and the 2 pigtailes.
I got this one yesterday and it's actually incredible. It's extremely cheap but it looks to me like it has the same quality of the Corsair ones. Not RGB tho, those ones can be cheap but they aren't that great.
I'm looking to upgrade the memory to 32GB as I also snag a 5800x3D, and I want to make sure if i'm doing that, I get something pretty and functional. In doing more research I can't tell if the 2x16 GB 3600 kit shown here:
Is actually dual rank or not. Corsair doesn't say and while I did see a toms hardware review saying 8gb were single and 16 were dual, i've seen some get 16GB sticks that appear to be single rank and I just wanted to get some clarification
The software he is using is Aida64's Sensor Panel functionality. (Paid Software)
The hardware looks like one of these
Do you know if Corsair has one because I don't know if NZXT is going to interfere with any iCUE software.
If not, is this what you got: https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Internal-USB-Hub-AC-IUSBH-M3-4/dp/B08L8VJS3Z
Get the SteelSeries Prism Caps.
It comes with 3 sets of bottom rows, and will work with the Corsair keyboards. (It worked with my K68).