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Eh, I personally recommend not buying bundles even-though they seem like a better deal. I started by just buying paints that I would need for a particular model and continuing from there. Before I knew it I had a full range of paint from all different companies.
Buying a set of paints will only save you a little cash, but I'd bet that the big sets will include paints you will never really touch so you aren't actually saving any money buying them.
If you really want to go the paint route on Amazon then I will admit that I did in fact buy these sets when I was starting painting on a set of Zombicide minis:
Reddit app for Android. It used to be called "Reddit is Fun", but the devs had to change it to Rif when reddit pushed their official app.
Phoenix armor is often pretty cheap I think. It's probably the least used armor set from the core game.
You may want to pick up a cheap file set even just for your test. A flush cutter/exacto knife will still leave little sprue nubs.
I had never done miniature assembly before KDM and most of it isn't really that hard. You just have to be patient and able to handle small pieces. IMO the minis add a ton to the experience of playing the game. At least the monsters and starting survivors, when I play solo I often don't bother pulling out the armor kits.
So I literally just said this in another post so I'll just copy and paste it here.
The only tracking it does is innovations. Its main strength is drawing randomly from the various decks.
I use Deck Manager for Kingdom Death Monster and love it for drawing: settlement events, fighting arts, disorders, quarry hunt events, and resources, and innovations, terrain, and tactics.
The innovations alone would convince me. It'll let you pick how many cards you draw for innovations. Then when you select one, it automatically adds the consequences to the deck for the next draw.
Thanks again! I saw this set is around 40-56 bucks, is that a reasonable price for a set? Would you recommend other paints instead for starting out?
I have only purchased their 53x53mm gear card sleeves but they are great quality. Comparable to ultra pro sleeves like these from Amazon.
I know some people are getting Wave 2 Soon, and with it the Spidicules. The spidicules is one of my favorite showdowns, and unfortunately due to a unwieldy model, doesn't get as much love as it should in my opinion. So I wanted to encourage everyone to try something like this to help them out.
Tools Needed:
- cooking pot
- Tongs
- Salt
- Water
- Superglue
- A base (mine was the small one of these 3 from: Amazon
- Optional: 2-3mm Drill and headpeg: Also Amazon (putting a headpeg and base on the body isnt needed for the final product but it really makes assembly much easier)
I thought this was going to be much harder than it ended up being.
Simply add salt to water(increasing boiling temp), bring it to a near boil, Submerge midsection of the leg you want to alter, then use the tongs to bend it slightly. Be sure not to submerge for too long, and try to keep the part that slides into the body out of the water.
Keep refitting the leg back into the main body and then adjusting it until its about how you want it, then glue it all together.
I previously showed my modded spidicules (sans a pair of legs and paint) but I wanted to help anyone whos getting the model new to have a more enjoyable experience with them.
Feel Free to ask any questions!
Edit: If anyone want to do the headpeg thing. I drilled a hole throughthe assembled body (without Face.) put greenstuff over the hole from the inside. then just glued the flightstand stick into position.
Edit 2: in case anyone tries this, i should mention that the headpeg actually uses 2 of the flight stands glued together.
Just an FYI: Amazon carries little pop up lightboxes that are the perfect size for miniatures for like $10.
Way easier than anything DIY, and not too pricey.
So I use Deck Manager for Kingdom Death Monster and love it for drawing: settlement events, fighting arts, disorders, quarry hunt events, and resources, and innovations, terrain, tactics.
The innovations alone would convince me. It'll let you pick how many cards you draw for innovations. Then when you select one, it automatically adds the consequences to the deck for the next draw.
What kind of cool features does Scribe have? I haven't tried it.
Thanks! I actually do have TTS (got when the kickstarter was going on to make sure I wanted to invest $$$) but pulling all the cards and rules out of it is a lot more annoying than with physical copies. If I have some extra time I might look into it, we'll see.
As for the card drawing, I'm not sure. They'd definitely be useful but I do want to try to stay away total replacements of game contents. Helps the Fair Use defense. The innovation deck might be easy to do, maybe a button that highlights X entries in the existing innovation deck so you can pick one. For the other decks it might easiest to use the Deck Manager app (that one's not mine).
Total noob here. The first time I ever heard the words "Kingdom Death Monster" was just a few weeks ago. However, after watching many a play through recently I think mobile app for character sheets is a great idea like similar ones that exist for D&D characters. I would love to sit down with a phone or ipad and play the physical game while swiping between characters and updating info without erasing over and over again.
You can also achive similar nice 3D effect with the things like this - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Vovotrade-100pcs-Round-3D-Crystal-Clear-Epoxy-Adhesive-Circles-Bottle-Cap-Stickers/32453793713.html
I think the Black Friday update revised that to Q2, and at the time of the article the release had just been pushed back to Q1. At this point it looks like there -shouldn't- be any more delays though. Check the updates for the most recent info.
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/poots/kingdom-death-monster/posts
Someone recommended Tabletop Audio on here not too long ago and that has been really cool for me. Queue up several 10 minute tracks and they repeat and transition between them easily. I just put my tablet/phone next to the board and had that playing and worked great. Props to the guy who suggested it although I don't remember who...
It's a "MALSJÖ Glass-door cabinet" from IKEA, so they should be relatively easily found. The lights are these, shipped from the US. I did have to drill a slightly larger hole in the cabinet to fit them but they're a really warm light and the dimmer is very handy.
The scribe for KD app is a MASSIVE space saver. Gets rid of all the paper for character and settlement sheets and works really well.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tabooapps.scribe
We have a tablet on the table that we can all access, but there's also the option for each player to sync over WiFi to manage each player.
I use army painter for the bulk of my work. They're cheap and good enough. If you're newer to painting, you'll chew brushes up or get too ambitious with paint and end up getting it up in the metal barrel.
For more serious painting, I go to my Windsor Newton Series 7. They're pricey and they need to be taken care of. I really don't suggest this unless you really like painting, and even then, only once you feel like cheaper brushes are holding you back.
For the price of one WN Series 7 size 1 brush, you can get a set of Army Painter that has a standard brush, a dry brush, and a detail brush.
https://www.amazon.com/Miniatures-Paint-Brush-Miniature-Brushes/dp/B007H4YR8S/
It’s the one I’ve seen recommended highest here on reddit and over on BoardGameGeek:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N6ODS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bRhOCbWM0HB51
Note the same manufacturer makes this product in a different container without the metal applicator, which I’ve heard makes a world of difference. Model you want is 8872C.
I built a deck manager so I didn't have to constantly shuffle card decks. It will also store photos associated with your settlements so you can save your state
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.companionfree.kdmgenerator
I just trimmed my gear card dividers to fit in a coin page as page tabs this morning. This corner cutter did a great job making them look nicely finished too.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunstar-Kadomaru-Corner-Cutter-S4765036/dp/B0076FJ7SS
I use a matte Minwax Polycrylic on top of my painted minis. It cleans with water which is a great bonus and that little 8oz can goes a looooooong way. I've probably coated 20 or so minis with it so far and barely scratched the surface. It does give a very slight sheen to the finish but I honestly don't know if any sheen at all is avoidable with any product you use as a top coat, whether it's an Army Painter or Citadel product or other. I don't think it detracts from the paint on my minis. At the same time.... this is a brush-on product so it could just be me having too much polycrylic on the brush which is the issue. A rattle can may be completely unnoticeable.
BCW sleeves are what I’m using (as of yesterday). Their 2x2 sleeves fit sleeves cards well. It’s actually not too hard to get 2 cards into 1 slot.
BCW Pro 20-Pocket Pages, Pocket... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KDNAU2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I use one of these for most of the monsters and all the survivors! Super cheap and works great for weekly use. It doesn't fit the Phoenix or my Dragon King unfortunately but I got those behind glass anyway
https://www.amazon.com/Feldherr-Storage-miniatures-tanks-monster/dp/B00W98CV26/ref=sr\_1\_9?keywords=feldherr+storage+box&qid=1658439352&sprefix=feld%2Caps%2C139&sr=8-9
I blew some money on a miniature holder. This guy right here.. The grip arms come off, so you can use it for complex assembly AND holding for painting.
Handle's slightly fatter than I like, but it works for me. Though I honestly just hold it in my fingers more often than I'd like to admit.
You can probably use the non-sharp end of the X-Acto knife to remove mold lines as well (the blade being somewhat bendy could prove annoying though but it's worth a try), but this is what I'm talking about.
I've never used green stuff before. Most plastic KDM models don't have ridiculously crazy gaps (The White lion and Gorm are common exceptions to this), but if I were going to paint I'd definitely use green stuff to fill gaps. I also don't paint ^^;
If you're wanting a storage solution that can be easily used while actually playing the game, I'd actually suggest a rolling cart with drawers. Something like this but you'd need to check the dimensions. I use one drawer for the card organization, another for terrain and minis, and another for paperwork. The top is where I keep my settlement set-up so it never needs to be broken down.
I put it up on www.photopea.com as bin101 suggested and updated the cards there. I don't know which font was used for the Title of the cards, photopea did not have the exact font, so the new cards currently has a different font. I marked those with a *.
All the section updated to 1.6 also have that in the title.
Here is a link, not sure what happens if multiple people starts edits the same link, so better download the PSD. https://www.photopea.com/#i7X-VtiVw
I have included a lantern file (My current survivor) in the beta zip here. https://mega.nz/#fm/1EohhJDA It's just a simple xml file. Nothing fancy. As for loading the file to toy around with on the program, you just need to click Load and type in the character name WITHOUT extension (in this case, it would be Stacey)
the idea is that you can drop it on a usb/ssh/dropbox server so all your friends will have access to everyone's sheet.
Be aware that you have to SAVE manually. I should have auto saving on exit implemented after school today.
I was in the same spot. The nice thing is they list the size in case you do want to go shopping elsewhere. Like I mentioned earlier I’m no using the gear sleeves and options for a binder for those, BCW binder pages are great sized for them and seem to work great. Up to you on how you want to do it, it does add a binder to your game content and it obviously doesn’t fit in the box, though the models don’t either.
Link for binder pages: BCW (25) 20 Pocket Coin 2x2 2 x 2 Album Binder Pages! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GMTTLA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_0ZZ8S1P94H10F36B4A9G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Hm, then the expansion for the game is actually the resin version of him?
This update seems to imply he'll be plastic https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/poots/kingdom-death-monster/posts/370081 or at least not resin.
I'm saying the labor, art, design, and tooling of the mold are the majority costs of the product.
Thermoplastic is dirt cheap. As low as 14 cents a pound.
The best way to seal miniatures that you're going to use on the tabletop is to apply a coat or six of gloss (I like this stuff ), and then put on a layer of matte/flat coat. The gloss protects, the flat kills the shine.
Replace all that above and sheet stuffs with hard surface sheet holders
Use 'full size' survivor sheets, tuck them in there, and that's that. I made my own using excel and just lay the grid gear on top. Dry erase the acrylic, wipes off super easy, use pencil on the sheet underneath if / when the survivor survives.
I don't really see a point in sleeving the gear cards. You're never shuffling them or handling them in really any way.
I use BCW 20-count coin pages (https://www.amazon.ca/20-Twenty-20-Pocket-Collecting-Supplies/dp/B002KDNAU2) in a binder for all my gear. When it comes time to shop, I flip through the pages.
Then for my gear grids, I just cut four of those pages down to 3x3 pages. So at most, gear is being removed from the binder page and put into a gear grid immediately. No need to sleeve the cards.
I have this duo
Sleeves Gamegenic Matte Mini-Square
https://www.miniaturemarket.com/ggs10062ml.html
Pages BCW 20 pocket Pages
And the fit is pretty tight. Putting one item in a slot isn’t too bad. Maybe the slightest wave/bubble and definitely snug, but something that might fix itself with a little bit of weight and pressure to get the extra air out of the sleeves. But putting a second in the same slot definitely makes them concave slightly into a U shape. Putting three in a slot really isn’t possible.
I’m not sure what I was expecting, but I actually feel a little foolish sleeving all 400ish of the gear first and then trying to put them into the coin page. In hindsight, I wish I would have gotten the coin page first, and then only sleeved the gear I would use. It seems like the most you’d ever have “active” is just 9x4, so there’s really no need to sleeve all 400, 36 seems like all you need. Then each item set of 3 would have easily fit into each of the coin slots and you wouldn’t need 20 pages to fit everything in the binder.
I just use those for my gear grids and it's awesome.
Not sure if you're located in the U.S or in Europe?
Amazon in Europe sells these: Docsmagic Sleeve pack
Ha, yeah, these were hard to find.
The more medieval dark-souls-esque serif headline font is SilveradoRR Light Condensed. I believe this is the 'official' font Poots is using for the game itself. If not, it's about 99% accurate. There is no equivalent free version, so I had to purchase it for around $45 - but I've used it many times it was well worth supporting the creator.
The more modern, san-serif font is a Google font called Ruda which comes in regular, bold and black weights. I used these throughout the physical paper designs and is the same font we're using for The Watcher as it's a pretty great/clean web-font as well.
Hope this helps!
I'm a big fan of Tabletop Audio.
They're 10 minute long original tracks that really serve to be more mood and atmosphere, than -music-, so you're not particularly worried about heavy tonal/volume swings as you transition tracks. Its a pretty effortless site, just add whatever -theme- collection interests you to your playlist and go.
I don't always remember to do it with KDM specifically, but its something I throw on when I've got excessively theme-y games like it, T.I.M.E. Stories, Sherlock Holmes: Consulting Detective, etc.
Whinge is a word, cretin. I can't help it you're incapable of higher order thinking and have a limited vocabulary. You still don't understand what you posted, so I suppose you are a stellar c-nt troll.
https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/whinge
I will even go directly to your source, and explicate it for you!
"In reality, ad hominem is unrelated to sarcasm or personal abuse. Argumentum ad hominem is the logical fallacy of attempting to undermine a speaker's argument by attacking the speaker instead of addressing the argument."
From your first post, you were attempting to undermine my argument by attacking me, period. You may feel otherwise, and I may be too certain, but your main attempts to undermine my argument is not through engaging the argument, but by attacking myself. Does that get through your skull? "What is best in life, Socrates?" "To ignore dumb shits that didn't make it out of juco on Reddit, Plato."
Come out of the cave, so I can fit you with your pointy cap...
Now, if you want to stick with the, You're an idiot, so there goes your argument chain, I would suggest you are overly attached to the need for a chain. You did not chain "so there goes your argument" to your attacks, but they weren't necessary to be understood, and we are not in the academy of Plato. You can't let take philosophers too seriously when dealing with cretins on Reddit...
If you're OK with 12 slot pages, these work fine, and can fit up to 4x sleeved cards per slot if needed. They can be slightly loose, but I've never had any cards actually fall out. I do keep them in a 3 ring binder that fully zips shut so if any did happen to come out during transport they wouldn't be easily lost. Still never had that happen tho.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B099DDK129/ref=ox\_sc\_act\_title\_3?smid=A3D837HPFDOSWS&psc=1
I did something similar with my bases. I took a couple of silicone molds using some 2 part compound I got at Michaels craft store. For the bases I use Miliput Superfine and put a layer over the standard base, then press them into the mold. The Miliput does a good job at capturing the detail of the mold, is easy to work with, and adheres nicely to the bases. I tried making bases that were all Miliput but didn't really like how they came out.
Get some of this stuff and you'll never have to worry about a bond coming apart. Just be careful with it. It bonds skin in a handful of seconds.
I use something basically like this for everything i don't have in a binder:
https://www.amazon.com/Broken-Token-Kingdom-Organizer-Monster/dp/B07KCPJYMK
And over all i really like it, but by far by favorite part is that there is one tray with dividers that i put all of the regularly used "decks" in. It is so convenient to have them all lined up and spaced out with labels. You can just reach over and deal out a disorder or basic resource without any searching. If this intrigues you i can dig it out of my closet and show you how i have mine set up specifically.
Also, I had edited with one other quick question..Is this the same as Biostrip?
Standard KDM Core Minis, which I'm assuming is plastic.
When I do strip it, would you encourage or discourage the use of Primer moving forward?
Also, I've been painting wrong all along, shooting for a thick enough layer to barely fully coat, and just haven't been bit because my miniatures were less precise. Ugh. Thanks! Looks like Biostrip 20 it is.
EDIT: To confirm, is biostrip about the same as this? https://www.amazon.com/Dumond-Chemicals-Smart-Advanced-Remover/dp/B001PCVKLK/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=biostrip+20&qid=1610385247&sr=8-1 No Biostrip in my country it seems.
I think mine's from Master Airbrush. It came with a compressor and three airbrushes. I think this is the one I got.
It's decent enough. Again, I've never used another airbrush to compare it to, and I don't use it for anything other than priming. So I'm sure there's probably better ones out there. But if you only want an airbrush for priming and zenithal highlights, this one should be perfectly fine. That's all I use mine for anyway.
I would suggest a storage cart similar to this.
They're your minis. Paint 'em how you want. Painted always looks better than bare plastic. Lots of folks around here prime white and just throw on a dark wash.
It's not Space Marines in 40k where someone's going to pop a vein because you want your purple space marines to use the red space marine rules.
Only real rule I'd have is to make sure you use paints that are meant for miniatures.
If you wanna take some of the guess work out, Reaper has color triad sets that are a shadow, base, and highlight color. https://www.amazon.com/Reaper-09715-Master-3-Piece-Medium/dp/B06XSB986N/
Vallejo has box sets of paints with examples and recipes for mixing. I bought this a few years back and quite like the set: https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Malefic-Flesh-Set-Paint/dp/B01D4VFCKY/
Also, you mentioned Citadel. If you play 40k or know someone that does, chances are they have bits they're not using. Especially heads with exposed faces - those might be good to experiment on.
I used 28mm tokens, and they fit like a glove. Here's an Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G6446PW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
Amazon.ca. Slightly pricey but they look nice on the table without the game.
Found one: https://www.amazon.ca/Allgala-Glass-Morooccan-Candle-Lantern/dp/B0767PCS85
And to be fair one arrived with a broken panel and became free through the magic of Amazon customer care.
Then I just piled in a bunch of these: https://www.amazon.ca/Untyo-Flameless-Naturally-Flickering-Tealights/dp/B07VL97W19.
I took these shots in a light box with my wife’s Canon. I can’t suggest it enough if you want to take shots of miniatures, or anything for that matter. The light box makes a world of difference
The one I bought is from amazon, it was one of their suggested ones, folds up into a flat portfolio.
AmazonBasics Portable Foldable Photo Studio Box with LED Light - 25 x 30 x 25 Inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GIL6EU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_grOhFb811G0CJ
Welcome to KDM and painting! It's a truly amazing hobby. The one tip I would give is to pick-up a wet palette. I linked one from amazon below. It's cheap and makes a world of difference in your painting. I use mine with parchment paper instead of the paper included. Thinning your paints and keeping them wet will go a long way towards helping you paint quality stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C18GTE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I started with Testors Gel, then moved to Testors Liquid, as you have there. While you can get good results with either of these, there are better choices.
I have since moved on to Model Master Liquid Cement for Plastic Models in the black container with the needle applicator. The needle tube makes it really easy to be very precise *exactly* where you place the glue - this is super helpful for tiny pieces. I use it for everything: Warhammer models, Gundam kits, scale armor, scale ships (very tiny pieces!), everything. I am never going back to brush-on liquid cement. Very highly recommended.
https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Cement-Plastics-1-oz/dp/B0006N6ODS
FYI - you don't really NEED to sleeve settlements and gear cards(I felt that way too at the beginning). Settlements cards aren't out much and gear sleeves can be replaced by these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KDNAU2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
With the above u can just use a old binder to keep all gear cards in order & cut a few pages to look like 3x3 grids for character inventory sheets.
If you're interested, I can send you a list of all the stuff I use to streamline my game.
Card sleeves, card holders, what pdfs I love, and the app I couldn't play without.
The app is Deck Manager for Kingdom Death: Monster. Not having to dig out and shuffle decks is amazing. The only decks I use are the AI and Hit Location decks. Everything else is organized in card binder sleeves, so I can look it up quickly if needed.
while yes there is an expansion https://www.amazon.com/Betrayal-House-Hill-Widows-Board/dp/B01EOA7Y1O/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/132-1680642-5024310?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01EOA7Y1O&pd_rd_r=8d353fec-c30c-4228-9c35-dd5c221c571e&pd_rd_w=53RDu&pd_rd_wg=EZQdp&pf_rd_p=a20...
I was talking about https://www.amazon.com/Betrayal-House-Hill-Upgrade-Kit/dp/B07D5VTG69
I did some homework and it makes more sense now. I'm looking at the below for it but I'm hoping my size estimates for sleeved cards are accurate enough. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000ETN7N4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1
Videos would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!!
I haven't had any magnets come loose yet! I have a bottle of this glue that I use -- I bought it because it's cheap but so far so good.
People make card storage boxes of all shapes and sizes, they shouldn't be too hard to find. Maybe search for Magic: The Gathering storage boxes, those should be the right size and lord knows there's plenty of Magic accessories.
E.g. https://www.amazon.com/BCW-Monster-Corrugated-Cardboard-Storage/dp/B000K41E7E
Model masters liquid cement, its freaking awesome. Yet, the body hanging off the front is heavy, even being propped up for a few hours it seems to want to droop to the floor. Might just go with regular superglue for that part.
I ordered one of these from Amazon specifically to transport the core box for KDM 1.5:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BFHEAI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It didn't fit. Or more appropriately, it would only fit at a weird angle, with much stretching, and was very difficult to get back out.
Hey, awesome. I noticed on the post you said you needed two to fit all the expansions. I just have DBK, Slenderman, and Dragon King. Do you think I could fit core + those in one box?
Would be looking at this one: https://www.amazon.ca/Homak-20-Inch-Flat-Top-Toolbox-BK00120920/dp/B000XJSLRW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1543007796&sr=8-4&keywords=steel+tool+box
If you have an Android phone then I highly recommend getting the following app:
I've used it for everything from Amazon Price drops to changes on the KDM store. It barely touches my battery (unless you're checking every minute of course) and it's incredibly customizable.
I updated my app so you can get up to the minute notifications of new items in stock at the official Kingdom Death: Monster store!
It's totally unofficial but I'm trying to score some hard to find items myself :)
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.companionfree.kdmgenerator
I use these binder sheets. They allow you to comfortably store 3-4 sleeved gear cards per slot. My gear cards are double sleeved so I tried to avoid putting 4 per slot in case it stretched over time and fell out, but it actually seemed okay when I briefly squeezed 4 in a slot.
Print pla. Amazon basics, here is a link to some I just bought the other day
AmazonBasics PLA 3D Printer Filament, 1.75mm, Gray, 1 kg Spool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D6C6HY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XONOBbCPWD3MV
I have a generic Feldherr soft case that I like. You have to adjust the pluck foam on the bottom level for the quarry/nemesis figures but you can fit more figures than you'll probably need in the case and it can accommodate most of the bosses pretty well.
If you're interested in putting them together, this glue works wonders. I've already worked through two bottles of it.
I'm not sure if it's "breaking the bank" but I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077JBMG3W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It has enough space to contain all the stuff from the base game and at least 2 expansions of cards. I now use 2 of them for all the expansions. it also fits sideways inside the KDM box.
I use Paladin's standard sleeves and also perfect barrier sleeves.
The perfect barrier sleeves are amazing value to price, and they're a lot easier to get than the paladin sleeves
Edit: also in case anyone is interested I use these coin sleeves in a trade binder for easy gear and settlement item management
thanks !
However, with the one I had already ordered (only one I found in here in France) : https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B002ZUI8PM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and the Mage sleeves, it does not seem to work (the cards won't fit).
Ah yeah, I had seen this insert it looks great ! However, I don't feel confident at all in my ability to do it right. That's why I am wondering about the battle foam ones, evn though more expensive.
Indeed, I don't plan to put the big minis in the Core box. For now, they are in a big "parcel box" but not very well protected and the parcel is huge. My idea would thus to be to get foam trays for the biggest models.
Thanks for the kind offer, but a bit of googling and an older thread revealed these on the UK Amazon site (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00JWU3Y84/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) , they look like an unbranded version of the BCW sheets so I'll give them a shot.
I have a large pledge for enough Mage sleeves for the entire Satan pledge. (230 USD for the projected card count.) So, in other words my cards are currently being protected by the shrink wrap they were shipped in.
I've put a clear matte laminate on my showdown board, settlement/hunt board, and monster control panel. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUDZO6A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've got my tokens in small plastic coin cases. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RBB3NM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm still mulling over a good solution for the terrain tiles.
I'll be printing out and laminating the often referred to tables and other sections of the rule book in order to better preserve it. Character and settlement sheets will be printed out and laminated for dry/wet erase marker use. I have a $30 laminator and perhaps another $30 in envelopes for this.
I purchased this kit from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KNK4T9E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
There are a few sticks with very fine grain. The sponges on top are super soft relative to plastic, but just enough to knock off some happy little accidents.
I wouldn't worry too much about damage though. Even if you took a knife to the model and made a huge gash right in the side...just paint it as a wound and it would look amazing. The theme is so gritty that pristine figures just make no sense.
- Brushes: Recommend brush made of Kolinsky sable fur. I've tried tons of brushes (Raphael, Da vinci, rosemary and co.), but I think Winsor & Newton Series 7 size 0/1/2 is the best. Rosemary and Co. is probably the cheapest Kolinsky brushes (also EU based).
- Paints:
- Reaper - The color triad system is awesome and they come in dropper bottles
- Games Workshop - Great colors, UK based company, only drawback is the paint comes in little pots
- Scale 75 - New brand with a lot of promise. Extremely matte.
- Vallejo - Used to like these, but reaper has a better overall color selection. Also Vallejo can dry kind of shiny.
- Primer: Vallejo Grey Primer
- Sealer: Testors Dullcote
Also get a wet palette.
Yeah, I use these craft organizers for my character minis. I put a little tissue in the bottom of each slot and they fit very nicely.
I have a few items from this set - great way to organize, store, and transport most of the items - the only thing that won't work is the game board - and it's not to much trouble to get a paper or laminated alternative. DEWALT DWST17805 TSTAK V Organizer with Clear Lid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CBY2E6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8zDbAbRH3T7JS
I was thinking about it and the closest material I could compare it to is the plastic wrapping they use for bouquets... this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Adorox-Inch-Clear-Cellophane-specifications/dp/B0170H8TL2/ref=pd_sbs_201_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TQTYE9NQ5W2Z2YASN58E
I think you'd have to try to find the thinnest version of it you could though so the box closes properly. If you try it, let me know how it turns out. Super curious now :)
Mage is currently the only company taking orders for settlement sleeves, but yeah they're having massive production problems. I'd wait until they or another company (Paladin) gets their shit together and operates a real store.
For gear grids you can buy these, they fit the gear cards really nicely. Earlier today someone posted a picture of binding those coin pages to sleeves that fit over the cardstock grids, that's probably what you'd want to look into.
BCW Pro 20-Pocket Pages, Pocket Size: 2" x2", 20 Pages - Coin Collecting Supplies https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KDNAU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_da9aAbNGE0ZWH
I used these for the standard cards
Purple Label: Standard USA Game Size Sleeves 56mmx87mm (4x100 Pack, 400 sleeves) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZFCD4V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2.8aAb7M3Z13Y
I have my gear in a binder in these sleeves
And the settlement events i couldnt find anywhere that has that size so I used 2 bcw post card sleeves. Cut the long side of 1 down by like 2mm and the double sleeve inside another.
Mage company sleeves makes some specific for kdm but are back ordered.
I recommend Tamiya, basically the same effect as any other plastic cement, but the bottle has a little brush in the cap which I have found to be much more convenient for application. Specifically, the brush allows you to be much more precise and does not have the possibility of excess glue running down the model.
I currently use the testors black bottle glue. It's a very thin product and is easily applied in small amounts through a very thin steel tube applicator tip. The red twin pack glue is a thick gel that is a bit more unwieldy to apply. It's been years since i've used the thick gel type and I recomend using the black bottle stuff. It's the type of glue that will melt the plastic and create a permanent bond.
Reading the packaging a little closer it looks like the black bottle now uses a plastic applicator tip. This model master version (still Testors) has the metal tip, which I like. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N6ODS/ref=psdc_2236128011_t1_B00005CA7S
Games Workshop has a glue that is the same as the black bottle Testors/model master but the the GW bottle isn't as good and the applicator tube can pull out of the bottle on you if you're not careful.
That makes sense. I was looking into this. I would like to find something a little easier though. That low melting point plastic seems like a good idea as well.
Those files are extremely coarse. I'm not sure what you could use them for without showing obvious marks on the plastic.
I use these guys:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LEC98AU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You could use these as well. Some unwarranted advice though: Since the gear cards arent shuffle or anything I decided to keep them in 2x2 BCW coin pages and put them in a binder so they are really easy to sort through
I ended up buying removable color coded labels, just tiny colored round stickers that don't leave adhesive residue:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BMBU9M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just stick one on the base of a survivor
Once you get past assembly (the advice here already is great!), you'll want to look at paints. Do yourself a favor and get a good primer (around $15, I use Army Painter flat black primer), and then 3 brushes (kolinsky sable is the best, but regular sable works fine too). Get a size 0, 1, and 2. Do not get super cheap brushes, but you don't need way out expensive brushes either. $8-12 a brush should be your target.
Then you've got to choose paints, and this will boil down to personal preference. Vallejo makes great paints, as does P3 and Army Painter. I'm not wild about Games Workshop's paints.
This is a great value, if you decide you like their paints.
I see. How much do you end up needing to pin models? As far as clippers made for plastic models, I wanted the tamiya ones... but those don't come in until november--so I went with these ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IBSFAI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) instead. They were commonly recommended and were even the recommended ones on the minipainting subreddit. Will these work better for plastic?
I see. So sounds like I should invest in some gap filling item such as green stuff (and?) milliput to get rid of the gaps. These are applied after the pieces are attached?
It sounds like I will need to wait a week? That, or if I make it to a store this weekend I could pick up a new one there.
Green stuff OR milliput. Green stuff, to my knowledge, is a bit harder to work because it's very clay-like, whereas super-fine milliput is much easier to force into gaps in minis and is easily available on amazon for like 8$. A big advantage of milliput is you can add a little bit of water to it after you mix the two part epoxy to make it a bit slicker and even easier to get into gaps/blend, and it'll dry just fine regardless.
https://www.amazon.com/Milliput-Superfine-2-Part-Hardening-Putty/dp/B002CNEWAM/
Can someone suggest some files for the final nub after using the xacto? Sandpaper or these citadel files?
You could try putting them in a picture album. A 5x7 album should work
I'm pretty certain OLFA is the manufacturer for Tamiya knives so you can probably save a few bucks by buying from them instead (see Amazon). I think the hobby knife in particular is important because you'll want something your absolutely comfortable with. They can be very dangerous.
This is the knife I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006SJAXE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I opted for plastic because I didn't like the cheap aluminum Xacto uses on their handles. I also believe the entire knife (blades and handle) is manufactured in Japan and I trust their manufacturing practices more than others. The blades I ordered over a year ago are still rust free.
What glue did you use for her? I bought one and for some reason this glue isn't working at all for me.
I used this. It's specifically for plastic models, though I do want to concoct a better way to apply it - I had a hard time getting very small amounts, so I had to dab up the excess around the joints. It set up quickly, and seems very sturdy, though.
I've previously used it to base my Reaper bones minis, and none of them have come loose in ~1 yr.