Use this: https://github.com/Rem0o/FanControl.Releases
Been using it for a while and it's one of the few open source projects that I've donated to. Works flawlessly. I hope if it works for you, you can also consider sliding him a few bucks cause the alternative is speedfan which is dead
Not OP. But this is the one that I've bought and this has been recommended to me from this sub.
You will have to do some modifications by cutting into it and redoing some of the magnetic strips. But it fits pretty well on the back of the NR200 and definitely gets the job done.
Nope, super easy. Used and app called Remote System Monitor. Download the pcversion and put the phone on the same wifi/network. Then you can set up the phone to launch whenever it receives power. I just ran the usb wire to the back and into an open usb port.
I had an old phone Nexus 5X sitting in the drawer, just disabled the BigCores because it had a bootloop issue. But any phone will work.
Parts Log
R7 3700x
3070 Ventus x3 deshrouded
Ripjaw 32gb 32000mhz
Saberent Rocket Gen 4 boot drive + 970 evo
Corsair SF600
Sycthe Fuma II (modded with an extra artic p12)
2 Artic P12 for exhaust above
2 Artic P14 for deshrouded gpu + intake below
I've posted an earlier version of this build before, but I reworked quite a bit after I got my 3070.
So I've finally gotten my hands on a 3070 ventus x3, which I think is probably one of the best deshrouding candidates for any 3070. Super easy to deshroud, just 6 screws behind the fins on the heatsink and 2 fan connectors to remove by hand.
Although the case only supports 120mm fans on the bottom, I figured I could buy a 120mm to 140mm adapter (https://www.amazon.com/Bgears-Cooling-Fan-Adapter-140mm-Black/dp/B0043GMY1U) and get not only 140mm artic p14s on the bottom, but also have it press exactly flush against the heatsink since the adapter adds an extra 12.7mm. The end result is 2 massive fans pressed up against a large heatsink.
Before I had only a slim 120mm above the sytche fuma 2 to exhaust, and it was because there was simply not enough space to fit a 25mm with the fuma 2 and a gigabyte b550i mobo.
However, I figured out that the main conflict between the 25mm and the Fuma was the fan clips that poke out of the sides. Bending the fan clips that attach the cpu fans slightly inwards (just use a pair of wire pliers and some prayer) was all that was needed to squeeze in that full sized artic p12 above.
End result is a near silent PC that operates really cool. I temp test using simultaneous Prime95 and Furmark for 5 minutes to saturate the heatsinks.
Temp Results (before deshroud)
Ambient: 23C
CPU: 70C
GPU: 68C
Temp Results (after deshroud)
Ambient: 23C
CPU: 66C
GPU: 54C
GPU: 54C
Thanks! Unfortunately I don't have any other pictures but I can tell you, it's this LCD screen: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085C172KQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pldnSite=1
That comes with a bezel, so I masked off the front panel and used a dremel with cutting wheel to cut a hole slightly larger than the LCD screen but smaller than the bezel and drill 4 holes for the screws. Then install the lcd from behind and the bezel on the front and the bezel covers the rough edges of the cut.
Thermalright makes some white 15mm rgb fans
https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-TL-C12015-Computer-Excellent-Ventilation/dp/B08PV22QXD?th=1
They aren't as powerful as the noctua fans but they work well enough and look great.
Go with the Arctic P12's PST CO and Slim P12's.
I had the Scythe Kaze Flex's in my Nr200, they had 1000rpm motor hum.
https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-ACFAN00119A-P12-Black-Pressure-Optimized/dp/B07GSRRHZT
https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-P12-Slim-PWM-Pressure-optimised/dp/B08QDKGCCW
It's a 5" "raspberry pi" screen: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FDYXPT7
Super simple to install, followed this guy's instructions but probably could have figured it out myself
I moved the fans to the bottom of the case with elevated feet; the dust filter that's on the underside got moved inside above the fans. I didn't add any filters anywhere else. I'm using the glass side panel, there's plenty of clearance for the cooler with the fan mounted on the underside. I need to try to squeeze a 92mm fan into the back to draw in some fresh air for the CPU cooler since the 3080 is blowing hot air up into the case.
I cannot find the similar one as mine but it will be something like this.
It's been awhile since I built my computer but I think this matx motherboard was one of the few. Matx that can fit into Nr200p.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FVYKFXF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_E2KADYWR3SC2GMGQE0WZ
You have to double check on that one. It's been 4ish months.
Also, I'm considering posting 16gb ram & 4n120 fans on sell. If you want more details, I'll share them with you.
make sure to test them - I bought some from amazon and one of them was completely shorted across all pins. Luckily someone had pointed this out in a review so I tested first and didn't fry my power supply. These were the ones that were bad - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08N45J5ZM
If you want to stick to having the 2 fans mounted on the side bracket, then maybe get a smaller tower cooler like the ID-Cooling SE-914 XT RGB (to fit your current aesthetic), set as rear intake, since your current 4 fans can handle bottom intake to top exhaust. Machines & More did a video on this cooler specifically. It seems like a pretty solid pick if you want something that's a little smaller.
Yeah it’s a tight fit. Here’s a close up of what I got:
So I have a fan, heat sink, fan. Both fans are mounted to the heat sink not the case but you can see the gap is minimal. So should both of these fans be pulling in outside air or exhausting the hot air from the gpu. I’m not sure if the gpu is pushing air up or down either…
Here is the pad I use: thermal pad
Yes that’s true. I also really like Noctua. But I’ve read somewhere online I think the Mugen 5 was a beast cooler that worked well in this case. I’d like to snag a 5800x at some point too. Can’t fathom that idea with the heat and noise it’s making right now… there’s gotta be a way lol.
Till a specific handle is made for this case try a stretch strap with handles or one these: https://smile.amazon.com/Pittsburgh-66220-Ratcheting-Band-Clamp/dp/B006ZBCU1A
I used 2 of them on my last move with my 88lbs core V71 pc case. I'm sure one would be plenty safe and secure with a much smaller SFF footprint. If you're in the US you can find them cheaper at a local Harbor Freight.
Do you have a picture of yours? I do dislike the glossy finish and have thought about painting it. Though, I set the RGB to bright white to illuminate the interior for the pictures and ordinarily keep it very dim to avoid blinding myself at nighttime, so I can't really see the glossy finish, anyway. Switching to black screws sounds like a great idea.
Just to confirm, you have this same Elecrow 5inch "IPS" display but in blue and your screen displays black when it loses HDMI signal?
My glass panel does fully close with that cooler but it is in slight contact with one of the heatpipes due to the termination flange sticking out. I could safely shave off 1mm without hitting the heatpipe and started to do so but stopped to avoid the copper showing through the nickel plating. It's very close though and ultimately comes down to manufacturing tolerance on those heatpipe flanges; if Scythe just implemented a different termination style or tightened the termination length tolerance, it would fit for everyone.
Don't take my word on it but I have seen some guy on this sub putting his NR200P in the Yorepek XL backpack.
Here is a link to it: Yorepek Backpack
If I find the post I will add a link to it too.
Oh also, I used these right angle cables: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045JHJDS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QV6Y0X0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And mounted the screen with the top edge of the bezel exactly 2 inches down from the top of the front panel, and then the cables route through the existing cutout in the case. Needless to say, this won't work with SATA drives mounted. The USB and HDMI cables can exit through the back to next to the pci slots with no cutting needed.
You can find the monitor sensor template here:
https://forums.aida64.com/topic/667-share-your-sensorpanel/page/23/
Depend on your case and monitor need, the screen size will be different. But here is mine.
https://www.amazon.ca/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-chromax-black-swap-premium-grade/dp/B07655KF5C Can I replace the brown fan for these?
I am using these, wedged into the top and bottom rails https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08212VVGS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
I cut a square of 3/8 in thick rubber furniture pad and stuck it on top of the bottom right fan near the left side panel. A little kinder than the metal screw. It was a perfect fit for my 2.75 slot 3070 Asus KO v2 . Only $3 for the rubber pads. Mine wasnt particularly sagging, but I prefer to have a support on on the right edge of large GPUs
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088KKC585/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o04\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cable combs are a huge help and hiding everything else behind the mobo is the other LoL.
If your gonna build using the IGPU and no add-on cards then you can go smaller. Look at the Antec ISK110 VESA-U3. Super compact and comes with a PSU.
Here's a link to the one I bought and here's it in use.
I ended up making a frame out of Legos (i have 2 boys I can take from LoL) and overall it's been great. You only need to run HDMI to your computer and there's 2 USB options. Run 1 to power (I have mine running to a old phone charger brick since my screen isn't in the computer, but next to me on my desk since my NR200 is on my left and I can't see inside it anyways).
The other USB is to control touchscreen, but I don't use that.
It's an 800x400 screen, I have the resolution set to 1280x720 and it looks good.
This solved my problem: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09FNY1RLM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Little magnetic adjustable tool that fits between your GPU and bottom of the case.
It's a DeepCool Fanhub PWM. You can find it on Amazon.
This should do it:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B093KYQS4D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the one I bought for myself.
But any sewing machine carrying bag really, should do it.
This is what I am using. I can fit the NR200, all my peripherals and needed cables. It is a tight fit with everything and needs a little packing skill, the case however fits perfect.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088R8BQTN?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
Get a fan controller. The NZXT RGB & Fan Controller fits nicely behind the front panel. It only has 3 fan ports, but you can get a Y splitter for the two slim noctuas and control them as one fan
Neither of them have to be these brands, have a look around and find something that suits your budget and requirements, but these would do what you’re looking for
Nothing sophisticated, just these:
Glue them to a board and film it if you need time stamps.
This should do it:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B093KYQS4D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the one I bought for myself.
The handle at the back of the bag to carry with your traveling suitcase is a nice plus if you plan to take it on flight tripe. But any sewing machine carrying bag really, should do it.
>I dont think there's any "tower" coolers that allow the side mounted fans at all.
I literally bought the Noctua NH-D12L for that purpose and I mounted the side bracket plus a 120mm fan without any issues. I cant take photo of my right now but there is one on the review section on the Amazon page where you can see it
The best thing about those arctic fans, is that you can get a set of 5 for about $30ish dollars (USD) on Amazon, and you can daisy chain them right out of the box. Just make sure they’re the PWM PST models. These are the fans
To be honest I really liked the form factor of the ML08. Carrying it around was a bliss. It was like transporting a suitcase. It was so easy to carry around at hotel, plain, friend place, LAN, etc. I also did not think the look was bad, it was kinda elegant, in my opinion. But I agree the look of the ML08 with the perforated metal side panel still beater and look sturdy.
For the carrying around part, I'm looking to buy a Sewing Machine Carrying Case like it was suggested in this subreddit a couple of times. This one look like a good solution:
I picked up the sewing machine case linked below, works great and AND was able to fit everything in peripherals except headset, plus got all the cables.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088R8BQTN?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
I recently, from a similar threads suggestion, picked up a simple sewing machine bag for my NR200. Fits perfectly, with keyboard, mouse and all the needed cables. Only thing that did not fit was the headset and of course the monitor.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088R8BQTN?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
Arguably one of the best budget air cooler available right now.
The H212 Black will fit with the mesh panel, but you may need to remove the caps that cover the heat pipes (it's simple and easily reversible), but I don't think it'd be enough for that chip.
The 5800x, unfortunately, is a hot running CPU, due to the design. It runs all 8 cores off one CCX, which concentrates the heat to one section of the IHS. The 5900x, though a higher core CPU, splits the cores over 2 CCX, running 6 on each, and as a result, spreads the heat better, making it a bit easier to cool, despite the greater number of cores.
Maybe look at the Scythe Fuma 2?
Looks pretty good. I think you could take it up a notch with a simple change/addition on the GPU power.
Consider a 180 degree adapter like this:
CY ATX 8Pin Female to 8pin Male 180 Degree Angled Adapter for Desktops Graphics Card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P5R258Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KAG8FHH73XN9V479BJ7C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Hey so the rtx 3070 is a little big, but i hope it will fit, the atx psu mount i've already printed and i believe using the top mount it will workout but it is a little scary, it's the first pc i'm building
This all seems fine.
The PSU is a little much at 850W, but it's great value considering the lower Wattage versions are not really any cheaper, if a few $ is important, maybe pick up the 750W for a slight saving. Or a Corsair SF600/EVGA Supernova 650W for $20+ saving. I'm running an RTX 3080 on the SF600 so you don't really need more unless you plan on a really needy card.
You can get a 5 pack of the Arctic P12 for less than $40:
They occasionally go on sale for less.
You're giving yourself a chance using a 65W TDP chip, but that's not a lot of cooler OR fan for anything. Is there a reason you want to go so small with water cooling? There's a ton of air coolers that would do the job better for less. There's also water coolers that could work better, 120mm AIOs are much maligned, but should still work better, there is space to work with in the NR200. A 92mm radiator is normally for much smaller cases like the Dan A4.
If you're committed to the 92mm route, I'd go with dual fans as a minimum. As an insurance, I'd probably go for a beefy 92mm fan that can move more than 50cfm. This would move serious air, but you might go deaf:
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Delta-Airflow-PFR0912XHE-Extension/dp/B086C7G94Q
I bought a sewing machine bag that came with a dust protector. The NR200(P) fits like a glove and the outside pockets are big enough to fit my TKL keyboard and other stuff like cables and my mouse.
I should have taken pictures. Essentially I removed each pin from the first connector housing, detached the pin (a bit of a pain, but I ended up using a utility knife to separate the crimp rather than cut the cable), discarded the side that goes to the second connector, crimped a new pin onto the cable (I used these pins and this crimper), and finally reinserted it into the housing. I did this one by one so I wouldn’t lose track of which pin goes where. I tested with my old GPU before plugging into the 3080. Hopefully this makes sense, let me know if I can clarify anything.
They do not come with the PSU; I bought them off Amazon.
Exact link (Amazon.ca): https://www.amazon.ca/SinLoon-Female-Adapter-Desktops-Graphics/dp/B097B7JK31/ref=sr\_1\_4?crid=2X0Y45OYDPUSD&keywords=180+degree+8pin+pcie+adapter&qid=1652922858&sprefix=180+degree+8pin+pcie+adapter%2Caps%2C72&sr=8-4
What kind of load are you planning to run overnight? I let Windows put my PC to sleep and all the fans sit at 0RPM, so no noise at all. In that case, it wouldn't matter what fans you had, as long as they're all PWM controllable.
Noctua fans are great, the nf-a12x25 being a great all-rounder, but right now it's $32 for one damned fan. If you went all-out and put in two top, two bottom and a CPU cooler, you'd be out almost $130 on fans, which isn't a smart financial decision. You could spend that money going from a RTX3060, to a 3060ti.
Compare to a 5 pack of Arctic P12's:
They even go on sale for $25-ish occasionally. Remember to check your motherboard, most ITX boards have maybe 3 PWM headers, 1 CPU & 2 Case/system fans. So you will need daisychainable fans (like the Arctic PSTs) or a 4 pin fan splitter.
here is the link
ARCTIC BioniX P120-120 mm Gaming Case Fan with PWM Sharing Technology (PST), Pressure-optimised, Very Quiet Motor, Computer, Fan Speed: 200–2100 RPM - Grey/White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082VH6RJX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_62HF4RS2EJAMEAY2D8MN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
>Does the side panel fit over the SSD heat sink or is there a bit of a struggle when putting it on?
It's perfectly fit.
Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KDDKDNN?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
Here is the link for screen. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QB2FGSL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I made the frame myself.
Here is the led lights strip: Phanteks PH-LEDKT_Combo: RGB LED Strip Combo Set - Retail Cases https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HUFMIZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G6TYZYGS0QJ4DM7AA8V0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I’m currently using a different mount for my nr200p and have no issues with it
VIVO Adjustable Under Desk and Wall PC Mount, Computer Case Holder with Swivel Action and Secure Locking, White, MOUNT-PC01W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082FNNX49/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QMX59NPWKYXM1Q9B7FHG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
no biggie. I made all the mistakes so you don't have to.
If you watch this kit, it sometimes drops to $30 or less. But what you can do if you need a spare SFX cable is ask Corsair's CS if you can "buy" just the one sleeved GPU cable. And they'll oblige you.
You may run into this thing where the pinouts don't exactly match. But they should work as long as it's marked Type-4
This is the EVGA one I bought along with Cooler Master SFX 850W.
​
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B093B5G7XD/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
I will return one - right now am thinking using cooler master one.
>ID-Cooling SE-226-XT (w\ Arctic P12)
Do you think this Noctua would be good enough for the intel 12th gen i7-12700K?
Get this new cpu cooler from noctua will work with mesh and glass panel just ordered mine
Noctua NH-D12L, Low-Height Dual-Tower CPU Cooler (120mm, Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TB5KJ5V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XV286TP7J62NK56H2S2F
I’ve got 6 fans in that case all Arctic.
2xP14s are daisy chained and running on the cpu can header (they’re on the radiator)
2xP12s and 2xP12 slims are daisy changed to their respective kind and then connected to this fella: SilverStone Technology... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07N3HP8S5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You should get magnets with adhesive on them to stick on the tablet. If the magnets are strong enough, you can just stick them to the front of the NR200.
These are the ones that I have and work pretty well. You might need to add 4+ magnetic squares on the back of the tablet to get it to not slide down the front though.
Good Idea, I'm thinking to use double sided tape with a protective case like this
So when I need the tablet I only have to take it off from cover.........
Yee, this one:
EVGA Supernova 850 GM, 80 Plus Gold 850W, Fully Modular, ECO Mode with FDB Fan, 10 Year Warranty, Includes Power ON Self Tester, SFX Form Factor, Power Supply 123-GM-0850-X1 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B093B5G7XD/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_2TYNKS2YQ44G1KGPG3XE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Amazon links below.
[MSI Coreliquid 240r](msi mag series coreliquid 240r, argb cpu liquid cooler (aio): Rotatable Blockhead Design, 240mm Radiator, Dual 120mm aRGB PWM Fans https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B087YXWFTK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_XVWYQ99SE47RVP0AJ0F9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) This one is also available at Microcenter, Best Buy and other retailers if you have a preference. Looks like a few of the options on this page have the pump in the radiator.
Pump is located mid loop in the bequiet! Pureloop 240 The really nice thing about this cooler is it can be refilled. I found it can be hard to work with if you have larger graphics cards because of the pump. A little bit more expensive, but it's another option to consider.
My girlfriend has the MSI 360r and I have the bequiet! 240. I've had good luck with mine so far. Her pump failed but MSI sent her a new one in about a week when RMA'd without any hassle.
I used some sign stand offs and stuck them on with double sided tape.
They don’t fit perfectly in the corner with the power cable but it works.
I’d go with something sleeved and flexible like this - then fold the excess (gently) and tuck it somewhere:
CableMod ModFlex Sleeved Right Angle SATA 3 Cable (White, 30cm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079DCJNPF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_1QRY3E1PMR1DAQ0DDKHF?psc=1
Its a mousepad i got from amazon. It is not the best quality, its very thin and the stitching is subpar but it does the job and its pretty! Here’s an amazon US link:
Auhoahsil Large Mouse Pad: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FG4B3TY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_C5WQHYGY0BA965XVF4TM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It might work. Mine are:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082DH1FZR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
As you can see, it's not as tall as yours.
Don't get me wrong, Fuma 2 even with stock fans is quite effective. However, with 2 full size Noctuas it's just killer, the difference is significant.
You could measure the room you have above the RAM, and go from there.
Vetroo V5 White CPU Air Cooler w/ 5 Heat Pipes 120mm PWM Processor 150W TDP Cooler for Intel LGA 1200/115X AMD Ryzen AM4 w/Addressable RGB Lighting Sync https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08F2FS7SR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_RDVTM30NYQE6Y33363WG?psc=1
It's not a very good one, and the fan that comes with it is quite loud, I replaced it with a lian li uni fan
You don't have to push anything, installation is the same as installing it horizontally. Your only issue is, the non P does not come with the GPU PCI riser cable.
You can buy one separately, Linkup make one that is the same size as the Cooler Master.
These are the Corsair branded PSU cables that are specifically labeled “type 4” cables
Not to be confused with (as an example) these cables which are compatible with the yellow label PSUs only
The pin out of the 24 pin connectors is different in the newer generation PSUs so choose wisely 👍🏻
Context:
So I wanted to deshroud my huge 980Ti in my NR200, and I found this item on amazon, basically plastic standoffs with different heights.
Turns out one of em is perfect height to prop up a standard 25mm fan under a 2 slot thick deshrouded 980Ti.
Pending upgrades now are to replace the sickleflow fans which are noisy as fuck, and to get a bigger better CPU cooler, that should quiet things down a ton.
There are gpu brackets to address just this. I have this one:
Graphics Card GPU Brace Support,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FNY1RLM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
They make it in a short and long version - I’m guessing you’ll want the longer one but measure to be sure.
Check out my posts if you want to see my vertical mount with one. It’s a Max so it’s not this high up FYI.
Until you get something permanent I would get a zip tie temp fix in place. That can’t be good for the card. 😬
If you look closely at the back right side you’ll see how. 🙂
This thing fully collapsed is the perfect height for my setup:
Graphics Card GPU Brace Support,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FNY1RLM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Use this to fixt the 8 pin issue.
Then use this to help with the sag. You can easily find these at your local hardware store or even walmart for a dollar or two. Mount it to one of the holes in the front.
Pushing the right side (the side that's hanging) of the gpu back, it'll help even it, but make sure you have room back there.
Just replaced my previous arm - got tired of tilt issues and shaking. Brace yourself tho - this wasn’t cheap…
Ergotron – HX Single Ultrawide Monitor Arm, VESA Desk Mount – for Monitors Up to 49 Inches, 20 to 42 lbs – Matte Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RD4FJ3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_6DF1SG5ZMK07A852X377?psc=1
Oh okay. So you ARE just talking out of your ass.
Now that that’s cleared up, I actually used an EVGA 650w SFX for my i9-10850k(overclocked with unlimited power draw) and 3070ti for 6 months with 0 issues.
But I see the game that you’re playing so heres the PSU that the NR200 MAX comes with for $135:
Cooler Master V850 SFX Gold Full Modular, 850W, 80+ Gold Efficiency, ATX Bracket Included, Quiet FDB Fan, SFX Form Factor, 10 Year Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LP6WS35/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_C2B50AB3BF8PJTWE89BF
So you’re looking at $150ish after taxes for the PSU. If you need custom cables, add another $70. Yeah I know I said $40 earlier, but I made a typo and I paid $70 for mine. Still well under $300
No, it's an ARGB header. They are daisy chained to an ARGB splitter.
Bottom fans are Thermalright and the Fans on the coolers are Vetroo fans. On the product page it shows gray vibration pads on the corners but what I received has white vibration pads. Yes, they were straight from Vetroo and shipped by Amazon, not some third party seller
There is also this
Get https://www.hwinfo.com/download/
Look at the Sensors, under ASUS ROG STRIX B550-I, there should be two fan sensors - Chassis1 and CPU. If you set your QFan to Silent for both CPU and Case, you should see around 400rpms or so.
From your temps, looks like your fans are going full speed? (you'd see around 1200rpm if that's the case).
Try running Optimize All in the BIOS QFan screen and reboot - what do you get then?
Noctua sells these rubber pegs that are screwless but no grill protection. Linked em below :
Noctua NA-SAV2 chromax.black, Silicone Anti-Vibration Fan Mount Set (Black, 20-pack) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B018T3826S/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_4Z0YK3AKNYRDBT3AB2AT
I was trying to help you better, the noctua fans I've used have them pre-installed on both sides. Noctua NF-A12x15 FLX, Premium Quiet Slim Fan, 3-Pin (120x15mm, Brown) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B071J8BZ8S/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_5DHKX8AR16TBBBCBTSFG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
i hope yiur not trolling. if not:
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-S12A-PWM-chromax-Black-swap-Premium-Grade/dp/B07657VBQQ#
chromax come with only 4 of one color, presumably to cover the 4 corners on which you will screw. the regular noctuas seems to cover both sides of each corner, however.
so i wanted to know on which side to place these anti vibration pads: side with the screw head or the opposite
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-S12A-PWM-chromax-Black-swap-Premium-Grade/dp/B07657VBQQ#
nevermind, i will just use a different color for the other side. seems like it would benefit for both sides to have the pads. I thought the fans "hung out" loosely.
thanks for making me manually search for this ridiculous image. needed but inconvenient.
Subtle and easy to hide.... I keep mine set white. Addressable RGB PC LED Strip, airgoo 2x13.8in WS2812 RGBIC Rainbow Magnetic ARGB Strip for PC Case Lighting, for 5V 3-pin ASUS Aura SYNC, Gigabyte RGB Fusion, MSI Mystic Light Sync Motherboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPNNTHJ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_4MMZBPDP20KR63RNEQXD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It's this one but viewing angle are not good, it's okay if you're looking straight at it but from other angle, it's not good.
It's a base for a custom 3d printed frame to house my 5" screen/sensor panel.
All it is right now is a plastic sheet cut to fit, but yeah it does do good job of hiding cables for a clean look too.
You can just do what I did there, buy this plastic sheet from amazon and cut it to size with a razer blade. Then use double side tape and attach it to the HDD.
If you want something a little fancier, you can ask someone to 3d print a cover for you. You just have to measure and let let them know how big you want it.
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Efficiency-Included-Warranty/dp/B08LP6WS35?th=1#customerReviews
From what I'm seeing, a lot of people are complaining about the fan noise/fan curve so that would explain your problem.
Another option is a similarly sized stand, but possibly more stable legs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085MPTTFJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
I've had a couple of these now for monitors, and until now it hasn't occurred to me that these may work well as NR200 stands.
Monitor Stand Riser, Monitor Riser, Laptop Stand, Laptop Shelf w/Vented Metal, for Screen, Laptops, Printer, for Home & Office https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073VKC134/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_67454KSV9861PBM32TBM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Monitor Stand Riser, Monitor Riser, Laptop Stand, Laptop Shelf w/Vented Metal, for Screen, Laptops, Printer, for Home & Office https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073VKC134/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_67454KSV9861PBM32TBM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You can use these. I've used them in my nr200 with a deshroud 3070 and works fine.