Was pretty straight forward, then again i been doing that for years.
The fans are plugged into the motherboard via a 3-way y-splitter, and controlled with FanControl https://github.com/Rem0o/FanControl.Releases
This allows you to select GPU as temperature source.
I did that with mine recently with the stock heatsink on my GPU. It's very cool and extremely quiet. I'm surprised more people don't do it. With the fans running at 1000 rpm, my overclocked Asus Strix 1070 ti under full synthetic load stays around 71-73.
I used this thing to power the fans. A word of caution: Don't wrap zip ties all the way around the backplate of the GPU. This was causing my PCB to flex a little bit at first and temps shot through the roof because the heat sink lost contact with the die. I rezipped them around the heat pipes and now it's perfect.
Here's the deal:
Real pwners and people who are nerd enough to care about fan speed below 1000rpm use fan controllers exclusively. These people also use high end controllers which have quality capacitors and resistors that are required to step down so low in voltage. A cheap one with budget led display from Amazon prime will not work and will be just as bad as your Motherboard.
To solve your problem you will need to seek out a quality fan controller from a well known company.
Lamptron is one of the go to brands and are around $75-100 and are top of the line. I personally own a scythe with retractable buttons which cost me $50. It allows for about 350rpm.
Frozencpu.com used to be the go to place but I hear they shut down. Can anyone confirm.
Edit: here is the one that I got: scythe Kaze fan controller Really nice unit. Customer service sent me a new one when one of the channels died during holiday season. Super nice company and they were known for making the best static pressure water cooling fans for years.
No problem! Depends on what kind of RGB headers you have on your motherboard (3pin or 4pin), but here’s the brand I used and both their 3/4pin options. They come with magnetic connectors so you don’t have to use adhesive in your case, very nice plus.
3-Pin: 3-Pin (5V) RGB Strip
4-Pin: 4-Pin (12V) RGB Strip
Edit: I personally got the 4-pin because that’s the header I wanted to use, and it came in black so it would be hidden better.
Lmk if you have any issue with the links.
Noctua NA-SAV2 chromax.Black, Attaches Anti-Vibration pour Ventilateur (20 pièces, Noir) https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B018T3826S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_0RFFSSVQTNM82XBY371J?psc=1. Right ? It comes with 20 of them, perfect for my 5 NFA14 ! I’ll wait to receive them tomorrow then !
Thanks a lot for your advices ! From France 🇫🇷
Honestly, as someone else on this sub pointed out, the 140's up front are more than enough to handle cooling for a case this size - I probably could have just skipped the exhaust fans. Setting them only to come on under heavy load is a good compromise too.
Another thing I did is cut some heavy plastic sheeting (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079SW44PV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to cover the top vent except around the exhaust fan. I could feel airflow from the upper 140mm fan exiting out the top before it even reached the CPU cooler.
Edit: PS. The NH-D15s is off-set compared to the NH-D15 so you may not have the clearance issue with the top exhaust fan I did.
CRJ Full Speed 12V Voltage Step-Up USB to 3-Pin and 4-Pin PC Fan Sleeved Power Adapter Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QFG6LFR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nnYxFb8CD9ACP
I got this one bc of the voltage step up so the fan can run at full speed
It’s expensive (ish?) but hey, it’s a Noctua fan :). $10.99 free shipping isn’t bad for all the use I’m getting imo.
This is what I use to control those same fans.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N3HP8S5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wcmeFbXQGEVS9
Powered PWM fan hub. Data signal from PWM on motherboard to hub. Sata power connector to power hub and 8 fans. 8x4pin fan connectors. One of the 8 reports the RPMs to the hub which relays back to the motherboard.
I control my fans via bios. Set to a static % until I am happy with airflow to noise ratio.
I really don't understand the fanboi mentality that surrounds Noctua - there are 120mm fans made by Akasa - the "Venom" series with yellow fans that put out 84 cfms at 1900 rpms - that's more than the noctuas and they are cheaper.
Thier 140mm fans put out 110cfms.
Still just as quiet.
​
Convert noctua's m3/h to cfms and you'll see they are inferior.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B096VB8MB5?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
Thanks. I think it makes it look much cleaner and helps with the airflow.
You should get these to go with it :)
Amazon has one though the seller is sus
There are listings on newegg though the price is crazy
also ebay
​
This is a small production volume item.
How about these? The Arctic P12 RGB fans are very good fans and are fairly inexpensive when compared to the Noctua and Phanteks.
The P12's are used on the Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 RGB which has a 38mm thick radiator. The fans and cooler have tested well. See Gamers Nexus youtube channel for video.
Redditors: please be aware the link in the above comment is an affiliate link that will give Yak_55 commission.
Direct link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09MG9DNLM/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_2QC183J71A7YF5M8VCJS_0
Redditors: please be aware the link in the above comment is an affiliate link that will give RealJayFade commission.
Direct link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08WPDD6GD/ref=cm_sw_r_api_i_8FYMK5D5831CVXEBSWSC_0
If you want the two fans, have you considered buying a low profile USB 3.0 header or a 90 degree adaptor?
I'm sorry but you have two major issues here. That CPU cooler is getting 0 airflow with the front of that fan up against the glass panel like that. Second issue is that you simply need to purchase a new case. I don't know which country you're in but here is a cheap case that provides adequate airflow. If you don't take measures to preserve your PC components, you'll degrade them prematurely. You don't have to turn yourself into a master electrician or over clocker but equip yourself with knowledge and optimize your setup and you'll be much happier.
Looks like 120 is indeed the solution.
If you have trouble mounting you could try a PCI Bracket like this: https://www.amazon.com/Maxmoral-Videokaart-Ondersteuning-Ventilator-Computer/dp/B07N3T1GJP
But you have to be sure the card is 2 slots thick without the fans. If it's thicker it won't fit.
CRJ sells a 12V boost converter that takes USB 5V and converts it up to 12V with a fan header on the end:
They did that already.
ASUS ROG Ryujin II 240 RGB all-in-one liquid CPU cooler 240mm Radiator (3.5"color LCD, embedded pump fan and 2xNoctua iPPC 2000 PWM 120mm radiator fans, compatible with Intel LGA1700,1200 &AM4 socket) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KSVR9CJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_A7BA71P68416Y1265PGG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here's the link:
BTMETER BT-100 Handheld... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J64TCBQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Simple but gets the job done :p
If you have the time, you could make a gently sloped adapter between the fan and it, then correct for cross sectional area for each.
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A12x15-PWM-chromax-Black-swap-120x15mm/dp/B0813X9G8T
​
To give you an idea on where they go
I use something like this with an old iPhone usb charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QFG6LFR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_M4CMQY36R7J5SZ1XQGAG I caught my finger in it a few times. Hurt, but not too bad. Doesn’t seem slow to start. Not more than in a regular case. It moves a decent amount of air for sure!
1.no 2. Nh d15 doesn't have more revisions 3.write a mail to noctua, they wil have you a mounting plate shipped....or get one from amazon for like 8€.. something like this
I use this to control my fans, and it is pretty much the best fan control software I've ever used. Lightweight, custom curves, combined curves, different temp sources, etc.
You need this
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NM-AM4-Mounting-Coolers-Platforms/dp/B01MTEFT52
Noctua will send you one for free if you can prove ownership of the cooler, but just ordering the kit might be the faster way.
TY!
Something like https://www.amazon.com/PowerNex-IRM-60-5ST-Miniature-Encapsulated-Supplies/dp/B0137ITCAA/ ???
Where are we located country wise? I know several extension cables are avail for prime 1 day if we are located in USA.
Example - Noctua Brand Black Extension Cables - 9 bucks for 4 cables and its Prime 1 Day for at least me. https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NA-SEC1-Accessory-Extension-Cables/dp/B00KG3K9AM/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=2TB3KELVNWPX6&keywords=pwm+fan+extension+noctua&qid=1642105155&sprefix=pwm+fan+extension+noctua%2Caps%2C115&sr=8-3
Nah.
I have no idea what everyone else is on about, you don't need to solder for this.
You probably have a little USB wall plug for phone chargers right?
Just add one of those to the end of a 12V step-up USB to PWM cable. I have this one. As long as you obey the current limit, it'll be fine.
Sure! I got the LCD monitor and its case from Amazon. Also purchased additional stand-offs to have the screen closer to the side panel. I had to drill new holes to the LCD's case to make way for the screws and hex stand-offs.
Link to the LCD monitor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F3801A2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
As for the software, I use AIDA64 and downloaded the layout from the AIDA64 forum. There are plenty to choose from and credit to those who share their layouts. Those guys are awesome!
Looking at the factsheet alone the p12 push 7ish percent less at roughly the same dba. Question is that something a fan curve or the low fan speed cable couldn’t do for you?
Basically you get 7ish percent less dba or 7ish cooler cpu same dba for 80€
Noctua Bundle: 3X NF-A12x25 PWM Premium Quiet Fan 4-Pin (120mm, Brown)
Another fan to consider is the 5mm thicker t30 given the clearance https://www.techpowerup.com/review/phanteks-t30-120-fan/5.html
(Not sure if you could do push pull w/ that case and aio but getting 6 nf-a12 could also be and option)
It's not proprietary, most VGA cards use the same header. You can buy an adapter from Amazon. The other option is to do like I did on my old 5700XT and just reuse the connector from the original fans and solder them to the Noctua fans directly.
Does anybody know if the A12x25 will work with the 120mm Phanteks Lux Halos RGB?
With the 0.5 mm fan tip spacing, I was wondering if there could be obstruction that would affect how quietly or how efficiently the fans operate.
I'm assuming that the 140 mm Phanteks Lux Halos work fine on the NF-A15s, but if not ... please let me know.
A12x25 is a solid fan, I’m running them in an ncase m1. There is also a f12 in there which I probably get rid of though.
Not mentioned already is the t30 albeit not a notcua, it receives high praise in the sffpc community, it performs better b/c it’s 30mm. So for the outer two fans that could be an option given enough clearance w/ ram and whatnot. Not sure if I would trouble myself w/ two different fans on one cooler personally.
Another fan not mentioned is the a15. It’s a 140mm fan w/ 120mm mounting holes. Clearance in the center and ram area might be an issue but from the pictures it could potentially cover more fins and therefore operate quieter.
I’d probably go for the 3pack from Noctua (or the four pack if there isn’t an a12x25 exhausting at the back.
noctua store on amazon: Noctua Bundle: 3X NF-A12x25 PWM / 83€ Noctua Bundle: 4X NF-A12x25 PWM / 108€
All said not knowing the board and case though.
ANBES Soldering Iron Kit Electronics, 60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Tool, 5pcs Soldering Tips, Desoldering Pump, Soldering Iron Stand, Tweezers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZ31W3M/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_CVEV8494EXAP4JA41BJ5
No. I wouldn't use this for an i7. I think it would idle and do minor tasks fine but once you ramp up your CPU usage for a while it'll get 85-90C+
This is one of the more budget friendly cooler, but still will do the job and it's not too big.
If you want better performance you'll need a bigger cooler than the one I linked or use an AIO depending on the case.
Maxmoral 1-Pack Dual Fan Mount Rack PCI Slot Bracket for Video Card DIY Support 9cm/12cm Fan Computer Radiator Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N3T1GJP/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_KZK34EC7C191AK1NNCFH
I had the same issue, yesterday i put https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CG2PGY6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
as a second fan. It's pretty cheap so better than nothing. Just go for 120mm fan rather than the original 140mm if it won't fit.
I recommend you Fan Control, I use it for creating custom fan curves. If the issue you're having is a sudden change in fan speed, this would fix it easily.
Noctua NF-P12 redux-1700 PWM fans, 3 in front for intake, 2 on top and 1 rear for exhaust, all plugged on the PWM repeater, itself plugged on the CPU Optional header. The two NH-D15 fans split into the man CPU header. That makes a lot of sense. All that with white pads, because.
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A12x25-PWM-chromax-Black-swap-Premium/dp/B09C6DQDNT
they're in stock now. I managed to order some the first few hours it was announced. then they went out of stock for a while then they got more stock it seems.
Link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09C6DQDNT?psc=1&smid=A1Z5H6ZGWCMTNX&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp
The Black U12A is available as well now
I found these on Amazon that connect 3 fans to one header. https://www.amazon.com/Phobya-3-Way-Splitter-Single-Connection/dp/B004CLFOK4
Noctua does have a fan hub listed on their roadmap for this quarter. Haven’t seen anything about it yet though regarding it.
I went for the NH-P1 to have a quieter build (and for it's distinct look as well). I want to maximize airflow from bottom to top and a thought a vertical GPU bracket could help me. I saw this Cooler master one (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BWZCY56/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_M9MMJRKFSX3HTAJGTQ2G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) that would fit my case but it seems to me the GPU would be too close to the CPU cooler. Has anyone here attempted something similar? Any tips?
I would use a single thicker wire, all those extensions add resistance and, depending on what kind of fans you are plugging in, the combination of energy drawn and resistance of the wire could cause higher heat dissipation off of thin wire extensions than they are designed to deal with. Either the wires will glow, a fuse will blow, or maybe everything will be fine.
If plugging into motherboard, better have a high voltage fan socket like my Asus Dark Hero has. Depending on the fans, you could be pulling too much power for the normal fan socket. I guess you could just plug it directly into the power supply with an additional adapter, but you will lose any motherboard control of the fan speed.
I power 4 120mm fans for my door off of my high voltage socket (using a special PWM header like this https://www.amazon.com/DeepCool-Control-Supports-Cooling-FH-04/dp/B07LGWHHXV/ref=sr_1_37?dchild=1&keywords=pwm+fan+splitter&qid=1631818721&sr=8-37). I think it is good for about 9 amps and as a rule of thumb you should have an amp available for each fan (although Noctua's really use a lot less power). Six fans on a single normal motherboard header is kinda pushing it for any mobo.
i dont have room for that but if i remove the 140 fan on the right of my cpu cooler i can place a 40mm fan directly above the ram like this one.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B071J8CZP9/ref=twister_B077VX8JXM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
no my ram doesn't have temp sensors which is annoying, the more i learn about b die and how sensitive it is to temp i feel it should be mandatory to have sensors.
my case is optimized for airflow imo i think its good, when i game my cpu and gpu dont go abvoe 55 degrees with fans at 40%
im not saying my ram is overheating or even hot but i just know for a fact if the ram is getting above 40 degrees which isnt hot at all then its having issues.
I passed karhu twice for 8 hours, turned on gpu stress test in occt which bumped me up to 66 degrees and i got an error within an hour. Now i realise that is not a realistic temp to simulate gaming for me as i stay below 55 so i tweaked occt gpu utalisation to simulate a game and things do actually seem fine now im stable but i cant go above 1.34v so i cant use tighter timings or a higher frequency.
Scope of Delivery:
The only thing that's notable as missing in delivery are the vibration compensators, but you can pick up 40 for $6.
The LNA/ULNA are pointless with PWM fan control.
Please note I did use an anemometer to measure airspeed, and adjusted for cross sectional area to calculate air flow, so the numbers should be ballpark :).
I guess I was hoping to somehow push the fan further up it's fan curve, like this:
https://images.app.goo.gl/4Ravf5zY9x392Hqt5
So that it is moving less air but at a higher static pressure. Maybe it's already maxed out....I don't have a good way to measure static pressure though :/. When its just a few mm even the old "u bend of tubing with water" won't be too helpful.
The temps are definitely not ok, unfortunately. Gpu is being software thermally limited at 86C, but only working at 50% computational throughput. For scince, I bought this blower fan (ac version):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08P1S5DBN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_PS5JQSDNTMTP64C3NAZR
And it works great! But this single fan is louder than literally every other fan i have going in 2 computers combined! Thats 6 noctuas full blast, 2x 80mm cpu coolers full blast, and a dual fan 'normal' gpu.
Plus.....I already bought the noctuas. And at $15 a crack I don't want to give up on them TOO easy, especially since the blowers would be another $15 a crack.
Unfortunately they are all gone now. They only lasted like 1.5 hours. I am using a chrome extension called Keepa to track amazon prices and give me notifications once the price drops below $35.
Here is the link:
Thanks man! And yeah I used NOYITO Graphics Cooling Bracket Side-Blown North & South Bridge Vertical Cooling Bracket for PC DIY https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B073QLQ87R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_4D10YB4M2TX0K75G17C8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 to mount them
Argus monitor is great however you don't actually need it.
You can buy a 3 way PWM fan splitter that allows you to connect 3 fans to 1 header. Then you can also get a 4pin PWM to 4pin GPU header cable.
Connect the 3 fans to the splitter, and connect the splitter to the GPU fan header cable and then you can control the fans using the GPU. So that means you can use any program like MSI AB, EVGA precision, etc.
PWM splitter (3 to 1) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08LZ3Q16G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_QABRQSKYTAK14QK9ZNKB
PWM to GPU header https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005ZKZEQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_HT60AZGCC3J079P7CRDD
So I found out the the heatsink bracket that the fans and shroud connect to can’t be removed and has brackets that block you from putting the fan directly flush on the heatsink. I might see how they preform being a cm or so away from the heatsink. If they’re worse than stock I might consider dropping the Noctua fan blades into the stock shroud, but that will require some crafty work. And the 3rd option is to mount both Noctuas onto the shroud like in this pic but hook up the actual fan connectors to the cards fan mounts which requires a mini 4 pin to regular 4 pin connector: CRJ 4-Pin PWM GPU Fan Adapter Cable All Black Sleeved for Graphics Cards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q5BTTDX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5V1YTPPAYFVCWDX5XFWA
All that said if I do anything at all I’m going to reapply the heatsink with some performance paste.
Which one, are you talking about this one here? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q5BTTDX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I bought that one last week and it was too big so i returned it.
Phanteks PH-FF140RGBA_BK01 Halos Lux RGB Fan Frame High density LEDs RGB 140mm fan mounting,Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074Q5BXVF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9CKE7AM7DQRD6TYMVXK8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The performance loss is negligible. Like, 2% or something? There's research out there on it. And as others have said the S is offset differently so you have better clearance for RAM/GPU.
The difference in price is like, 40 bucks
Hmm, prices may have gone up. Its on Amazon right now for 120 (CAD)
From my experience with the D15 and TU150, your issue with the 2nd fan won't be RAM clearance, but USB header clearance. I had to buy a right angled adapter and it was still very tight. The other option is to run the D15 with one fan and re-purpose the 2nd fan as a front intake depending on your GPU length. Even though it's 140mm, it has 120mm mounting support. Hope this saves you some trouble!
You want these. The OG design of the nf 12x25. You don't get all the accessories and top notch customer service like noctua. I own 12 of of nf 12x25 and worth the 29.99 with customer service alone.
Its just the sleeved cables from Corsair all black. And the thing on the GPU is just an adapter to get the power cable above the GPU :)
https://www.amazon.com/COMeap-Connector-Adapter-Desktop-Graphics/dp/B08GXCMLPD
Sorry I meant as in using NF-F12 both as intake and exhaust as opposed to specifically buying S12A for the exhaust.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TALIUS-Cronos-Tempered-Glass-Tower/dp/B07NVT6NQV
That is my case and out of the 3 included fans 1 was DOA. So I was only running 2 fans atm, 1 at the top and 1 at the bottom. The included fans are cheap fan strip controlled so really looking forward to replacing them with these Noctua (or P12).
But yea coupled with the U12S cpu cooler, where should I consider placing these 3 NF-F12s and what orientations? Also will the 3 suffice or do you suggest getting more? I'm running an i5-10400F + GTX 1660 (soon get a 2000 series though)
Pretty good! I own a set of these https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08GFCGDG4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share and the only adjustment I had to make was to move up one of the fans on the coolers' fin. It was easy and took about 5 seconds
As for now, it is available on AMAZON.CA
I ordered mine on the 16th, then it went unavailable again couple hours later, now its back on...
I just realized the my A12x25 is not the real A12x25. Its thinner than the original. May this be the cause of me not getting better temps? A12x25 Slim Fan
Great. Thank you for doing this for us, so we wont have to go through all that testing. I decided to get ARCTIC P12 PWM PST since they are very close to Noctua performance based on other youtubers review. Plus it was 40 bucks for 5 fans. Now only thing I'm missing is an anti sag. Are you talking about those anti sag that takes 1 pci slot?
By the way I was starting with 60, 120, 160, 240, 320, 600, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500 and finally 3000. (sandpaper)
Than at the end to give it the last polished and shiny touch, I used autosol Link: https://www.amazon.es/Autosol-GV0400/dp/B003XJ1ODM/ref=sr_1_1?__mk_es_ES=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&dchild=1&keywords=autosol&qid=1601588102&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076542HBN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3C9wFbH4EB6AC
Just buying splitters may work for you depending on the size of your case. I had 4 case fans and 2 fans on my noctua U12S and was able to reach my motherboard neatly by creating 3 pairs. Each motherboard 4 pin connector can easily handle 2 fans, you can even daisy chain them further if you want but I wanted to separate my PWM to control intake and exhaust fans separately.
Make sure you do the research cause the reviews on those Cooler Master ones weren't great. Another option is Enermax. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YBX369R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_e65uFbF211WRF
Thermaltake had some but they were super overpriced. They want 160 bucks for 3 fans. They're insane.
Damn sorry to hear that man. Some other brands have made white ones. I got Noctua gray ones in right now but they have no RGB so I think I'm gonna pick up these to give my build a blue accent with the white build. Even if its not ideal. Cause Noctua taking their sweet ass time plus no RGBs.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BLVCJZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ykXuFb2J4XM8J
Took me a quick google search. Enjoy!
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U12S-chromax-Black-Single-Tower-Cooler/dp/B07Y88BNYZ
The best fans for case airflow are this ones https://www.amazon.com/Scythe-Sealed-Precision-120mm-SU1225FD12H-RP/dp/B0763T6VFV/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=scythe+fan&qid=1597076366&sr=8-5
That all depends on what you are trying to do exactly. For me, on my case, I wanted to normalize all noise. So I use an 8fan hub that controls all the fans via one PWM. That way i can control all the fans via one setting in
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N3HP8S5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-W1pFbKP5G44H
If you want full independent control of each fan, maybe a Corsair Commander Pro. But that means you have to use Corsair I cue software to control them , which some people hate.
on the hubs - only 1 of the plugs needs to be 4 pin. The rest should be 3 pin pwm. The reason for this is that only 1 fan needs to send RPM back to the mobo for monitoring. The rest of the fans only need the other 3 pins to act in sync.
Something like this will work totally fine.
As far as I know, they’ve had this color scheme for a couple of years (probably more). My headphones are fairly old now. On amazon the newer version headphones have the color scheme listed as “ivory”
Sennheiser HD 599 Open Back Headphone, Ivory https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L1IICR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0uq8EbWZEXB49
I'd reach out to Noctua directly, don't think I would want to wager a guess if that would be enough for you. Alternatively, you can buy this memory and fit the L12s no problem.
You want the NF-P14, probably the Redux version, since you're looking at the black IndustrialPPC version of the A14.
Think about the problem as "how much air do I move at X noise level" instead of "how much air do I move at X RPMs" -- since, really, you just want to move the minimum amount of air necessary to cool the component you're cooling, so you're not generating unneeded noise.
The IndustrialPPC fans aren't really meant to cool standard computer cases; they're meant for dusty industrial PC applications, and so their flow rates and noise levels are higher than Noctua's other fans.