What are /r/ODroid's favorite Products & Services?

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This is the one I bought: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_4BYMSM3JPR0FW7RYVAEC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Not sure if a 5ghz model would work or not. 2.4ghz is plenty for scraping.

If you're not very familiar with linux, try installing android on your c2. Android is a lot simpler to use than straight up linux. Then you can run the kodi android app.

I play N64 games on Android with my ODROID-U3 using both Mupen64Plus and RetroArch. Most games work fine, but some have graphical glitches (shaders, polygons). For instance, Smash Bros is playable but some of the backgrounds are not properly rendered. The nice thing about using Mupen64Plus is that you can give feedback to the developers since they're not always able to test with every platform (https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/mupen64plus).

If you report issues on the ODROID forums to @meveric regarding his GameStation Turbo image, he is pretty quick about fixing them when he is able to. Sometimes messing with the settings has a big impact.

I am running a MC server on my XU4, to help with performance I used SpigotMC https://www.spigotmc.org/ which seems to be much better than the vanilla server.

A tool included in most distros of linux to monitor CPU/RAM usage is top or htop

I would also ensure you have a swapfile set up so that you can assign the full 2gb of ram to the server.

did you change the userdata location to the external? dietpi-software > User Data Location > choose the external

https://dietpi.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?p=2087

Then you will be able to access and modify it all with ProFTP

are you using ProFTP or Samba? https://dietpi.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=15

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when you FTP in and see those 4 folders, do you know where they are located? not in /mnt/ or a subfolder of /mnt/ but you can't get to the root folder? within dietpi you can use 'dietpi-explorer' command to explore all the files in the system.

I should have asked you to run it as sudo lsusb -v to get a bit more info and also asked for excerpts from the kernel logs but it probably wouldn't matter. I was hoping that it would reveal the chipset, but WD sources enough chips that it can assign its own so I'll have to guess. My thinking is that some device chipsets do not behave well with other devices/chipsets and some (many) do not follow either USB specs correctly or their own documentation or, this being Linux, lack full documentation and the driver is at fault.

Resets generally happen when the device doesn't respond in time to the host. Possibly the result of the device powering down. See https://www.kernel.org/doc/Documentation/usb/power-management.txt for dated but useful info. You could try that technique to prevent spin down.

Another possibility is that it has a broken UAS implementation and you can try forcing that by off creating /etc/modprobe.d/uas-quirk.conf and adding the line options usb-storage quirks=1058:25e2:u

For regular Linux, I use the sysfs interface with the export numbers listed here. It looks like you can do the same thing from Android, although you'll likely need to figure out permissions issues.

I am not a dev so don't take my word, but I think you can launch apps and files by using "intents" through shell. I just tested it out with a few apps and it worked, have not tried launching movies with MX Player but it does have an API as well https://sites.google.com/site/mxvpen/api

This is on my C1, running Firefox in XFCE.

(did I do the right test?)

i use this one for my OGS

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01KVZB3A4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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nice and compact and no snapping off worrys lol

I saw on the Hardkernel forum that the HC2/HC1 has a CPU that cannot run 64-bit Linux, and therefore it has a limited future.

I agree completely that the HC2/HC1 form factor is perfect. The idea of automatically giving both CPU and HDD an excellent heat sink is great. I was planning on getting some more of the HC2 units, but their future is making me hesitant. I'm not so keen on the HC4 because it relies so much on a fan instead of heat sink.

What I'm thinking of are these racks along with the HC4: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GY2B3WP

It'll work, but it's not as ideal as the HC2.

Yes this is what I was looking for thanks so much.

I'm trying the same thing.

> in the Odroid forums I saw a link to a SATA to DC jack converter cable

something like this? https://www.amazon.ca/Power-Adapter-Cable-5-5MM-2-1MM/dp/B08HMY7QRJ

> Be sure to get the correct DC jack and connect the correct pin.

Ya that's not a problem.

> Just be sure to not power your hard drives through your H3

Yes for sure.

Do you have pictures of your setup?

Did you basically have to pull the barrel jack out of the enclosure and then into the back of the H3?

Is there a way to power the H3 from the board side? Like are there pins I can plug into to power the H3 without using a barrel jack? Perhaps the 40 pin IO?

I'm looking to do the same thing. I wanted to run everything off of a computer power supply. I'm planning on using something like this: sff power supply But I don't see an 18v rail? What power supply did you use that has an 18v rail?

I am trying to figure out same kind of setup. My shortlist currently is

• Odroid HC4 + power adapter + KKSB case for it -- https://kksb-cases.com/collections/odroid/products/kksb-odroid-hc4-aluminium-chassi-vertikal-design-for-harddiskar (~200 € without SATA SSD disk)

OR - Odroid M1 + power adapter + SATA bracket + emmc + KKSB case for it (~300 € without SATA ssd disk)

or some Intel configuration. In example chuvi Herobox is ~220€ - https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Herobox-Celeron-Desktop-Computer-Windows/dp/B089F5SJJM/ref=sr_1_40

However, idea is also to select hardware so that i can scale by building new near identical boxes if it is needed so out-of-production intel boxes are out of scope.

Yeah I had issues with this as well, the older odroid dongle worked great with my C1 and my N2+ before I sold it, I currently use this with my Pi's

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y2HKT75?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

YMMV

I run Emulation Station as part of Retropie. Retropie is not limited to Raspberry Pis, it can be installed On any Debian-based distro. I have tried installing Emulation Station in Windows but found it very difficult to get configured to launch emulators properly. Retropie pre-configures everything for you.

I certainly hope that the "multiply the Ethernet speed by 10" statement is not accurate, I'm hoping for MUCH more than that. Right now, my RPi with OpenELEC can only sustain about 1 MB/sec (about 10 Mb/sec) read/write speeds when accessing the external hard drive over the network. I'm hoping for 10 or more MB/sec when I build this.

In any case, I've decided to go with the Banana Pi. I'm currently printing a Banana Pi NAS case. I'll have relatives visiting for about 2 weeks though, so my printing is getting put on hold this afternoon :(

Hardkernel seems to make strategic assumptions to keep the price down. The XU3 had DisplayPort and 4K, but for more than double the price. I assume that it wasn't successful enough.

The Raspberry can't go higher as well, according to http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=20155&p=195417&hilit=2560x1600#p195443 there is a pixel clock limit which means the highest supported mode is 1920x1200 @60 Hz with reduced blanking.

I was think this would require a rooted phone, but it appears not - This app has mainly good reviews and was recommended in a raspberry pi forum. It make no difference what the image is. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.redrobe.raspicardimager

USB 3.0 to 2.5" or 1.8" SATA or IDE cable. Check that it works with linux.

The retropie OS is an easy to use software solution for emulation that officially supports the XU4.

https://retropie.org.uk/docs/Odroid-XU3-XU4/

Have you checked this out? Read starting at "Please add support for device X"

https://forum.xda-developers.com/apps/magisk/module-magiskhide-props-config-t3789228/amp/

None of the odroid devices appear to have been added to the list.

https://forum.xda-developers.com/apps/magisk/module-magiskhide-props-config-t3789228/post76494812#post76494812

Later tonight I'll make a try with a USB flash drive instead of a SATA SSD.

There are in fact various options for "usbstoragequirks" in the armbianEnv.txt file, I also see my USB SATA adapter's vendor and model IDs there, but honestly I got no idea what does it in fact mean... Albeit I see this: https://www.kernel.org/doc/html/latest/admin-guide/kernel-parameters.html

u = IGNORE_UAS (don't bind to the uas driver);

I had to give it an opportunity, and I tried libreelec, and it's worked perfectly, no lag or flickering, now i'm in 4K 24fps and it's amazing, but there's was still the radarr/sonarr problem, and then i've found this add on, and i think i'm never coming back to dietpi again.
Even the CPU performance under a 4k playback are great, previously in 1080p the cpu went crazy like 100% all the time and 80% of RAM usage.

Thank you for the great advice sir u/whorobj.

Lakka does support something they call Netplay which appears to be a way to connect to Lakka instances together to play mulitplayer games but I have not tried it

http://www.lakka.tv/doc/Netplay/

Also, Retropie officially supports the Odroid C2 and XU3/XU4 as well and does support Dreamcast. I am going to load it up when I get my XU4 and see how well it plays. The C2 seemed to have issues with Dreamcast games under Retropie but I didn't expect them to run smoothly anyway on that hardware so I didn't pursue it. I will let you know what the results are.

I'm an old school Free Software guy. If Android was actually open then projects like https://microg.org/ would not be necessary.

However, if someone could tell me that it does actually work on Android, then I'm pretty sure I would be able to get it to work on Linux.

It will show up just like the sd card does as removable media. . . well it should. On an linux OS it does so windows shouldn't be too different. Also, I would strongly recommend using something like etcher to write your img's files as its very simple and verifys the data after the write.

Start here for available OS for the N2. Use Balena Etcher to burn one of the available files to the MicroSD card. Once done, insert the MicroSD card into the N2, make sure the switch is in the SD card position and connect power. I used Ubuntu Minimal (CLI only) and Ubuntu MATE (includes Desktop environment). After you're done you can then migrate the OS to an SDD, there are guides that can be found by googling.

Thanks!

I can't seem to get it to install, though. I'm getting this error:

efreak@odroid:~/source/plex> sudo dpkg -i plexmediaserver_0.9.11.16.958-80f1748-2~jessie_armhf.deb Selecting previously unselected package plexmediaserver. (Reading database ... 67788 files and directories currently installed.) Preparing to unpack plexmediaserver_0.9.11.16.958-80f1748-2~jessie_armhf.deb ... Unpacking plexmediaserver (0.9.11.16.958-80f1748-2~jessie) ... dpkg: error processing archive plexmediaserver_0.9.11.16.958-80f1748-2~jessie_armhf.deb (--install): trying to overwrite '/lib/ld-linux.so.3', which is also in package libc6-armel 2.19-0ubuntu6.6 Processing triggers for ureadahead (0.100.0-16) ... Errors were encountered while processing: plexmediaserver_0.9.11.16.958-80f1748-2~jessie_armhf.deb Does this by any chance run as a separate user? It would be great if it does, I really prefer not to run stuff as root.

Edit: I'll try rolling my own package. It seems that this file shouldn't be in the package? If you're the maintainer, I think you could use dpkg-divert (example)

For game streaming I use Moonlight on Android and it works well both locally and remotely dependant on your upload speed of course. It's available for Ubuntu as well. https://moonlight-stream.org/

For remote desktop maybe something like VNC server I only RDP from my device not to it so not too sure on that.

I don't have to use I2C... I am just looking for a solution to use the H2 if possible... I am currently using a Nextion panel on serial pins, however, that can go away also.......

The goal is, if at all possible, control an L298 from the H2. I am not sold on the method yet. I'd love serial or something that I can use with NodeRed...

(Motor controller: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGD5SCB)

The exact ones I bought are no longer available, but if the pictures are accurate these are constructed similarly. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P75PD92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_G99MTTNMMGNE4ZECCBWC

They need to be 5v so any USB powered ones are fine, but I chose these strips because each LED had an individual resistor so they can be trimmed down much more than the strips that use a resistor pack per 3 LEDs.

This could have been done cleaner with some individual UV LEDs and some 68 ohm resistors, but this was easier.

LOL, sounds like you need to put the SSD on hold and buy one of these instead for now...

https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Monitor-15-6inch-Computer-Protector/dp/B088D8JG3L

;-)

Seconding this. Also, I found this as the first result on Amazon UK:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/SmartFly-Tech-eMMC-Board-RK3399/dp/B08229QKV3/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=emmc+adapter&qid=1614103147&sr=8-1

I'd just go the USB 3.0 route and keep it simple. If you already have a 3.5" HDD to use just get a powered USB enclosure or an unpowered one for SSD/2.5" HDD.

There was a used APC model (like the one I bought) on Amazon for $34.99.

It may be overkill for your application, but you can never have too much overkill...

Yes, there should be one deluged and one deluge-web. I guess you have it working now, right? If you have an external accessible IP and port you can use an app on Android called Transdrone. There should be one on iOS as well for sure. I use it to add torrents and to check the status a lot easier, even when I am in front of a browser.

An XU4 absolutely will not power two 3.5" hard drives.

I'd bet if you look at the documentation for those USB to SATA adapters, it will state no adapter necessary for 2.5" SATA, whereas 3.5" requires a power adapter. 3.5" drives simply suck too much juice.

I have an XU4, and I'm using a 6A power supply. The XU4 is plenty good with a powered 3.5" and a bus powered 2.5".

Get a power strip with more outlets? I have the APC power strip below. Lots of outlets!

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B078HYGD7G/?coliid=I3TLF6VGUSVY3Z&colid=2F5PN9MH58TLE&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Thanks, I've seen this one and their shipping is like another 12, do you think a 5v/4a will suffice? Is there harm in trying it? like it will screw up my system?

This is the one I already ordered but I can send it back:

<strong>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4HYWAM/ref=ox_ya_os_product</strong>

Is it a bad choice?

You put a space int he middle of the flutter gallery link.

Also here is where new versions of flutter gallery will be posted.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZR7MMXO?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I think I figured it out. I'm sure I'm supposed to (obviously) hooks up LED +/- poles independently, and use the C/NO poles for the latching button to power on the system when latched. I think turning the LED off when the button is inactive is some coding within the board itself. Now to determine which gpio terminals to use on the board ��

Well, I'm going to be using a Noctua fan (Noctua A-Series Cooling Fan Blades with AAO Frame, SSO2 Bearing (NF-A4x10 FLX) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_75GcBbXV86GKS). Do I need to worry about that with this?

I've been using my XU4 24/7 for a while for similar tasks. Some suggestions: My favorite fan for the XU4 is a slim 5V Noctua https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NEMGCIA/

Whisper quiet, not cheap but a worlds difference compared to the stock fan.

And if the I/O performance of the RPI3 bothered you, go for an eMMC module on the XU4.

A RPi Zero (not W) is $5, if you can get it locally, and a USB Ethernet adapter is as cheap as $7. So, $12 vs. $60+S&H

Just putting into perspective that a PiHole would be even more of a "waste" of an XU4 (using OP's phrasing), unless the XU4 is running multiple services (e.g., PiHole in addition to NAS).

Nobody makes them because it is unlikely that a large enough number people would buy them. Aluminum cases are often expensive because they're machined and not cheaply stamped.

Get a case like this or 3D print your own.

I see, very helpful.

Is voltage drop a concern with many odroids on one powerstrip eg This power strip is rated at 15A, if 10 xu4 need a minimum of 40A would that strip power all 10?

Really if you get the 40x38x36 heat sink and put a good low RPM 5V fan on it the thing will easily be able to run with minimal thermal related downclocking while still being silent. It's much more effective to add even a small amount of active airflow than to use progressively larger heatsinks.

If anyone is interested, I got this adapter from Amazon, and it works on the C2 with Android.

I had to modify my buiid.prop, and ad the line "wlan.modename=rt2800usb". I added the line under #Additional Build Properties section, right above the wifi.interface line. Rebooted, turned on wifi under settings, and it works.

Not the fastest wifi on the planet, and it seems to take a few attempts to connect to the play store for it to "settle down", sort-of. Seems to be working fine, though.

EDIT: These are RT5370 based dongles.

I'd like to try something similar. Do you think this fan would work?

https://www.amazon.ca/SODIAL-Brushless-Sleeve-Bearing-Cooling/dp/B00QPUEQRC/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465067535&amp;sr=1-2-fkmr1&amp;keywords=5v+0.2a+fan

Do you have it set up so that the fan is always on?

Tried this case today : http://www.amazon.co.uk/High-Quality-Raspberry-Case-Model/dp/B00MQLB1N6. It is more difficult than the Raspberry to insert it in the box but it fits and as said before the jack power plug will be unusable.

I have this guy: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IVPU7KE/

I downloaded the ubuntu-14.04.1lts-lubuntu-odroid-xu3-20150212.img image, un-xzd it, and dd'd it on to my SD card.

It behaves exactly the same if I put the SD card in, or don't put the card in. Just the red power light, no activity light. I can only guess it's not recognizing the SD card?

Or the whole unit is bad I guess.

Good thinking. I just checked it with a multi-meter and both pins 2 and 4 are giving me 5v like I would expect.

The only thing I can think is that it doesn't like my SD card? I ordered this guy:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IVPU7KE/

Which should be pretty standard. I'll have to track down another SD card to test I guess.

> Requires a power adapter sold seperately (rpi can use an old android phone adaptor)

You're not required to use the power adapter that comes with the C1. It's also possible to use a 5V/2A Android phone adapter with the C1 by using a $1.50 third-party USB-to-Android cable (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009PB7N6E).