What mhz is the RAM, I would make sure it’s 3600mhz or 3200mhz, 3600mhz preferred. Also 500W should be enough, but there’s a 650W on Amazon rn that’s only $50 and it’s fully modular, really good steal.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0797CDK7J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_WKN1FEG3W60P95DA6908?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I chose this case for this reason. The case is the metallic gear neo cube https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07YFWHMV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_3EPG33Z57FH70TDZ9Z6P assembling the computer in this case was a lot of fun

Graphics card

Specifications:

Chipset Manufacturer NVIDIA GPU Series NVIDIA GeForce RTX 30 Series GPU GeForce RTX 3070 Boost Clock 1755 MHz CUDA Cores 5888

Processor:

Specifications:

Model Brand AMD Processors Type Desktop Series Ryzen 7 3rd Gen Name Ryzen 7 3700X Model 100-100000071BOX Details CPU Socket Type Socket AM4 Core Name Matisse

of Cores 8-Core

of Threads 16

Operating Frequency 3.6 GHz Max Turbo Frequency 4.4 GHz L1 Cache 512KB L2 Cache 4MB L3 Cache 32MB Manufacturing Tech 7nm 64-Bit Support Yes Memory Types DDR4 3200 Memory Channel 2 Virtualization Technology Support Yes PCI Express Revision 4.0 Max Number of PCI

Storage

Specifications:

Form Factor M.2 2280 Memory Components 3D NAND Interface PCI-Express 3.0 x4

Max Sequential Read Up to 2400 MBps Max Sequential Write Up to 1750 MBps 4KB Random Read Up to 300,000 IOPS 4KB Random Write Up to 240,000 IOPS MTTF 1.7M hours

Memory

Specifications:

Capacity 32GB (2 x 16GB) Type 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM Speed Depends on processor selected, see breakdown below: Intel Core i3-10100F 4-Core = 2666MHz Intel Core i5-10400 6-Core = 2666MHz Intel Core i7-10700K 8-Core = 2933MHz AMD Ryzen 3 3100 4-Core = 3200MHz AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 6-Core = 3200MHz AMD Ryzen 7 5800X 8-Core = 3200MHz Voltage 1.35V ECC No Buffered/Registered Unbuffered Multi-channel Kit Dual Channel Kit Heat Spreader Yes Features Extreme performance DDR4 memory designed for gaming and PC enthusiasts

1.35V ultra low voltage

Intel XMP 2.0 support Recommend Use High Performance or Gaming Memory

Will you be using the USB-C port on the front of your PC? If not, then it won't matter.

If you do need to use the USB-C port on the case, then the motherboard as-is doesn't have the correct header to allow for its use. To get that port functional, you would need a PCIe card like this one that has a USB-C header you can attach the port connection to.

Yeah.. you will have to plug it in the 2nd GPU slot in the power supply.. you can get a cable extension kit from Amazon.. there are cable extensions in many different colors.. that will make the cables look good.. Like this one..

No, the controller can't be used as an adapter, sadly. You just need to buy a

headset -> headphone/microphone adapter. They are $6 on Amazon:

https://smile.amazon.com/Headphone-Splitter-Computer-Smartphone-Headset/dp/B01MQZ2023/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=headset+to+mic%2Fheadphone+adapter&qid=1610867232&sr=8-3

Their stock cooler is terrible, cpu temp is very hot 90+ degrees celsius with that cooler, and noisy. I recommend this one aftermarket cooler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09LHBFPJ6?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1

If this is for a pre-teen, I'd keep it simple, something like the Creative Pebble set. Volume knob right on the speaker, easy to adjust. And if their tastes change, it's not a major investment.

Microphone - again sticking with something decent, but not going to break the bank: the Razer Seiren Mini gets good reviews. Also a good mic for remote classes, if that's a program for the local schools.

The headphone+mic can be okay, but speaking from experience, either the mic or the headphones will get busted at some point, and then you have to replace the set. Keeping them separate means either one can be upgraded/replaced easily.

This is a really nice starter system!

Thank you for the reply!
I did not consider the 5800x3d so far, does it have significant advantages compared to 5900x for gaming?

I was planning on using this CPU cooler, or something similar:

https://www.amazon.com/CoolerMaster-MasterLiquid-Close-Loop-Cooler-SickleFlow/dp/B086BYYFG5?linkCode=sl1&tag=ehpcexcess-20&linkId=c4e8edf62dbe1aedfd8e4e00f9fffcf9&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl&th=1

Yes, upgrading the PSU might be needed. I'm not at home rn and don't know by heart which PU is currently in the build, so I will double-check that later.

The case is pretty big, a lot free room with my current build. If I remember correctly it has 2 intake fans and 1 output fan.

If you want some more ram, try this out.

Is it possible to sell your old PC in your locality and include that money for new PC build budget ? If so, i can recommend a good updated build for your budget that can help you with any current AAA titles at max settings , even star citizen

Here is good website to see if your current build can run it : http://www.systemrequirementslab.com/cyri/requirements/star-citizen/11834

Thanks it must have been something to do with how Etcher put the iso onto the USB as I did it this way:

https://www.freecodecamp.org/news/how-make-a-windows-10-usb-using-your-mac-build-a-bootable-iso-from-your-macs-terminal/

And it has worked perfectly!

Ok, if that idle, then yeah, no good.

One thing I notice in your picture is HWinfo is showing 1.4v on the cpu, which is really high, especially for “idle”.

Take a look through this forum thread and see if there’s any solutions that will lower the cpu voltage.

If you use an all-purpose PC benchmarking tool you should be able to see where the poorest-performing component is; that is, it'll show you where the biggest bottlenecks are. I've used this one in particular, personally, and it's kept me from dropping money pointlessly.

Hey man,

First thing I noticed was the pictures take a little long to load. I work with a web design company and we keep all our images under 250mb. It helps if you convert them to .jpg instead of .png. We sometimes use https://tinyjpg.com/ to help with that.

​

Personally, I think the green is a little too much.

And on your homepage you list the menu items twice.

​

You have a good idea for a site. With some fine tuning you will get it! Keep up the good work.

Thanks for posting this, I was going to say the same. I used this adapter from this brand and went from a 960 Samsung 256g to a 970 EVO 1TB, no sweat - Rivo M2 to M Key PCI-E X4 Adapter Card, Supports M.2 NVMe AHCI 2280, 2260, 2242, 2230 SSD https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01N09W21D/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_2SDZXECSK13SC1TPDST1

My CPU from has base clock of 3.7Ghz overclocked to 4.9Ghz. (32% increase in frequency)

So I need a better cooler. I think it cost something like 130€?

https://www.amazon.com/Radiator-Advanced-Lighting-Software-compatible/dp/B077G3C6HH

I don't think you need anything similar with the non-overclockable 10400F though. A 40-50€ aircooler if you're feeling modest but want it good.

I REGRET buying it but I have a 1440p monitor.

https://www.amazon.com/27-inch-FreeSync-Response-DisplayPort-MG279Q/dp/B00ZOO348C

I should not have bought a 1440P resolution monitor.

It requires more than 30% more power from the GPU than a 1080P monitor does to run the same FPS.

Aka. If you have 100fps on a 1080P monitor, you'll only have 60-70fps on a 1440P.

And now I can not go back to 1080P once I've used a 1440P. I will always have to buy a more expensive GPU.

For the same money I'd grab the ASUS Prime or Gigabyte UltraDurable Z590 board; Z590 means you can upgrade to 11th gen if you want down the line, but mostly because they are better boards, the MSI -A series is their low end gaming board.

I'd take the A2000 NVMe over the SN550, the Kingston A2000 drive has a DRAM cache which (may, in some circumstances) improve performance. Similar $$.

The CPU cooler is good but can be cheaper - the Peerless Assassin 120 for $40 and eSports Duo for $45 are just as good.

~~Generally speaking cases with solid fronts have poor airflow, I'd look for a front mesh like the P400A Digital (if you like RGB) or the NR600 for a plainer case with more savings.~~ Reading comprehension FTW.

The PSU is B tier, which isn't bad, but this one is A tier for the same $$.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/z6npXb

With that many fans, I'd get a fan hub with a SATA power connector (so the fans are powered by your PSU and not the motherboard) like this one. Couple of notes though:

• Hubs are meant for control of PWM fans - all PWM fans connected to the hub will run the speed set for the fan header on the motherboard that the hub is connected to.
• If you use a 3-pin fan on a PWM fan hub, the fans will simply run full speed.

The second desk obviously adds much more desk space for work - if you have the room for a second desk, that would be the best option.

Are you looking for stands (the kind that sit on top of the desk) or mounts (the ones that clamp to the desk)? I have the following kinds and my experience with them.

• Single Arm mounts (like this one)
  • I have 3 of these for my main pc (one for each monitor - two 27" 1440p in landscape orientation and one 24" 1440p in portrait).
  • The pluses of this are that the desk can still be pushed pretty much against the wall while keeping the monitors off your desk. Pretty sturdy and very little to no monitor movement once you get the monitors placed where you want them.
  • The minuses are that they're not great for constant adjustment of the monitor - I try to set them and not move. They can be moved but the arms don't move well up or down - swinging out or rotation is ok.
• Adjustable gas pressure monitor mounts (like this one)
  • I have this for a 22" touchscreen monitor and pc my kids use or my wife uses when she works from home
  • The pluses are that the monitor can be easily adjusted and then stays in place - literally grab the monitor, move it in any position easily - no fuss.
  • The downsides are that it won't work well if the back of your desk is against a wall - the arm needs to move around and swing. Also, while it's great for moving around and being relatively sturdy, the monitor can vibrate/bounce a little if the desk moves/shakes.

I got a NZXT 850w but it’s way overkill for my pc with your stuff you should be fine with a 450w-500w

Cooler master is pretty cheap but reliable here’s one Cooler Master Elite 500W Ver.3 - ATX Power Supply Quiet 120mm Fan PCI-E Support https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CZ1LY3K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Q7TT9337DWCQWFG0JCXQ?psc=1

I have a 2k 32 inch for my main monitor and honestly it’s kinda big for me. My second one was my first monitor and it is 23” and 1080p I like my setup but it’s does help to have the same resolution monitors. Because full screen applications don’t like you switching between different sized monitors. Also don’t get a second monitor that has more than 60hz refresh rate, unless you plan on using that specific monitor for gaming. This is my secondary one (it says 60hz but it’s actually 75hz which is nice)

Acer R240HY bidx 23.8-Inch IPS HDMI DVI VGA (1920 x 1080) Widescreen Monitor, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0148NNKTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_V3BY4E58MEFSDWAR2M5W?psc=1

As someone else said in the comments. You should get some sort of GPU brace or bracket. It will keep your card from getting damaged by sagging. Here is what I bought a couple months ago for my new built.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08S2RWY9F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_FT8GNGSMWSJMJ0GGVJ5K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Other than that your new rig looks awesome!

https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-CP-9020121-NA-Bronze-Certified-Non-Modular/dp/B01MRW2K79/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=corsair+550w&qid=1621309057&sprefix=corsair+550&sr=8-1 its the one i use

upgrade to:https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B07B41WS48/ref=pd_di_sccai_5?pd_rd_w=mNz1C&pf_rd_p=c9443270-b914-4430-a90b-72e3e7e784e0&pf_rd_r=2MFXKBYDBK8V2JEN6PX1&pd_rd_r=db16642e-b422-4dea-976b-7f1b93b916a7&pd_rd_wg=RlXXv&pd_rd_i=B07B41WS48&psc=1

edit: its only 20 dollars more and you have that much

Theyre called the Lian Li Strummer Plus. You can get the older non-plus models but these had some issues with flexibility apparently.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B085DP11FW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_F6ZN41HHW6ST29YP4T2G

of course! here are the fans: upHere RGB Series Case Fan, Wireless RGB LED 120mm Fan,Quiet Edition High Airflow Adjustable Color LED Case Fan for PC Cases-3 Pack,RGB123-3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078LWV8PZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_PNF.FbZ7C3JNA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

they are super easy to install btw!! they connect directly to the PSU and it comes with a remote so you can chose / change the colors :)

Also i think it'll be better to pick up a case from local stores( youll be able to find a good atx case under 40 dollars). But if you cant, heres the best case under 50$ i could find.

It will work fine, but I wouldn’t recommend it, MSI and Gigabyte make an entry level B450 for $75 those I could recommend https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-B450M-DS3H-Ryzen-Motherboard/dp/B07FWVJSHC/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=a320+motherboard&qid=1597331372&sr=8-8

The three pack is $32 and the 5 pack is out of stock right now but they are like $50.

Asiahorse FS-N001 120mm ARGB White Case Fan with Motherboard Aura Sync Fan, High Airflow,Speed Adjustable 800-1500RPM for PC Case 10-Port Fan Hub and Remote (3 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08173J8KG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VzzlFbT78VF7F

Hahaha honestly it took me so long compared to the “average time” it should take a first timer, I almost gave up 🤣 Here’s the link to the pokeballs:

https://www.amazon.com/Laser-Etched-Crystal-Puzzle-Pikachu/dp/B0743J3CRQ

This is way better and at 60 bucks. It's black, but performance over look. If you want a white one, here is the better one for 90 bucks.

If you run out of ports you can buy a PWM splitter, and run multiple to one header. You will only have RPM control as if there was 1 fan, so all of the fans on that splitter will run at the same RPM. Good for case fans. You also will likely lose RPM reporting but as long as you can hear them you're good.

Look for one like this: https://www.amazon.com/ZRM-1-Pack-Splitter-Sleeved-Cooling/dp/B07GV78YCZ

Your Youtube video thinks it's trying to be clever with the build but it's really quite bad taste if you know half of what's going on in it.

Switched you up with a 6-core cpu.

Switched you up with a more modern Motherboard.

Switched you up with better, faster, larger RAM.

Switched you up with a more sense-making storage solution.

Hopefully you can find the GPU listed above for the price listed above.

The case is up to you. Yours looks cooler. Mine is popular for it's performance.

I'm sketchy about the PSU I chose. But it's the cheapest above 550W psu with any level of modularity I can find on UK Amazon.

I'm not completely comfortable with the random wattage count of 620W, but the reviews seem to praise it. The price suggests it might be low'ish quality. But shrug. You're living on a budget so it should suit the needs.

If you can find a CPU with the search Filter: Ryzen 5 1600 AF I can recommend grabbing that. It's essentially a Ryzen 2600 disguised as a cheap 1600. (85 dollars)

Edit: Looks like it's only 11 pounds cheaper on UK amazon. Hmm. On my display anyway. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Processeur-AMD-RYZEN5-Socket-YD1600BBAFBOX/dp/B07XTQZJ28/ref=psdc_430515031_t3_B06XNRQHG4

I’m not sure on the pay here’s a link to the pc…https://www.amazon.com/HP-Bluetooth-Connectivity-Pre-Built-TP01-2022/dp/B09F29RD4G

there can be some parity if we're talking 2.5" SSD. 16TB SDD

ah my bad! when you said made to the same standard I assumed you meant the same specs stated on the plug the PSU came with, so it'd be safe to use anything above 5 amps like this one;

https://www.amazon.co.uk/LINDY-Plug-Mains-Power-Cable/dp/B01G78SAUK?th=1

Is there any reason to go with something like this over the travel adapter? Is it safer or just a matter of less possible failure points maybe? I'm just asking because I pretty much ordered one of those travel adapters as soon as the other guy said they'd be fine aha, appreciate your help though mate, thanks.

Here’s a kit I found on Amazon Sweden. And here’s another kit

would i not need one that matches the specs on the one that came with the power supply? (250v 16A) I found this one on amazon that says it could be used with desktop PC's but cant see any specs for the electrical information on it.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/LINDY-Plug-Mains-Power-Cable/dp/B01G78SAUK

Sorry I just want to be sure because i've got 3k's worth of hardware in this build and don't want to fry it all aha

i like it when it looks good and gives me good cooling

with that case i probably use NZXT kraken Z73, it has a changeable display what wake ur pc much more fancier

The 6700xt is pretty high end for 1080p. If you decide on 240hz then that’s one thing, but I think you’d be better off with 1440p 170hz. Check this out https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Vbmiiprx-Zero-Frame-Agile-Splendor-Overclock/dp/B09R26XXFW/ref=asc_df_B09R26XXFW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=598250021259&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13439047082925752061&hvpone=&hvptwo=&am...

I mean… all your parts are pretty killer. Do you plan in playing 144/165hz 4k ultra? If not, I can’t imagine there’s anything unbalanced and/or in meed of an upgrade. I don’t know what ssd you’re using but as long as it’s nvme then there’s no need to change that either.

The one thing I’d definitely look into is getting a different monitor. A 3080 can push 1440p 165+ no problem so that monitor is just wasting frames.

https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Vbmiiprx-Zero-Frame-Agile-Splendor-Overclock/dp/B09R26XXFW/ref=asc_df_B09R26XXFW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=598250021259&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12971724336405488619&hvpone=&hvptwo=&am... This would be a really good upgrade to your setup.

That’s fascinating! Really makes you appreciate the importance of digital storage.

What about something like this that I saw once, https://www.amazon.com/Synology-DiskStation-DS1621-Business-Operating/dp/B08ZYQSJ56. Is that an example of a RAID setup?

At 32 inches you probably won’t notice that much of a difference from 4k since the PPI is already very high, but here’s the only one I saw with a quick search

Appreciate the help! (forgot to mention I'm kinda a tight on budget)

there's a price gap of 150 cad between 5800xrd and 5700x, and 80 cad between
5600x between 5700x, I'm also looking for some productivity for software development and some virtualisation.

I liked the ak500, any opinons on this cooler (Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE ARGB) same price of ak500.

That is unfortunate. Biostar will probably send the next delivery to stores in early January. So long I can only find it overpriced for 500€ and more; cheapest is this: https://www.amazon.es/dp/B0B76DV8LK?m=A1AT7YVPFBWXBL&tag=wwwidealoes-21&ascsubtag=2022-12-20_850b276e2f5401200feab95e725408c3bf7b48ec242f9149c97449e09c47dc2d&th=1&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/SkyTech-Blaze-3-0-Gaming-Desktop/dp/B09DS37DQ1/ref=sr_1_14?c=ts&keywords=Tower%2BComputers&qid=1671466088&refinements=p_n_feature_twenty-three_browse-bin%3A13580790011%2Cp_n_feature_eighteen_browse-bin%3A23703243011%7C23703246011%2Cp_n_feature_fifteen_browse-bin%3A23690097011%2Cp_36%3A-100000%2Cp_89%3ALenovo%7CSkytech%2BGaming%7CiBUYPOWER&rnid=2528832011&s=pc&sr=1-14&ts_id=13896597011&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.2b70bf2b-6730-4ccf-ab97-eb60747b8daf&th=1
This should be a good pc for you

i forgot i changed the psu to https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Certified-Continuous-Active-PS-SPD-0600NPCWUS-W/dp/B014W3EMAO/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1W9VWYA7IPN1Z&keywords=600w+power+supply&qid=1671378365&sprefix=600w%2Caps%2C138&sr=8-4

​

idk if that ones better or worse

btw, the predator i was refering to is this: https://www.amazon.it/Acer-Predator-Orion-3000-PO3-630/dp/B0B2F55NQN/ref=d\_pb\_allspark\_dp\_sims\_pao\_desktop\_session\_based\_sccl\_3\_2/259-7381582-8101307?pd\_rd\_w=JG2Fs&content-id=amzn1.sym.1b9ed8bb-7b0c-438c-b913-348735789bdb&pf\_...

https://www.amazon.com/WD_BLACK-250GB-SN770-Internal-Gaming/dp/B09QVP977F/ref=sr_1_5?gclid=CjwKCAiA7vWcBhBUEiwAXieItk8KsHk_BVPVil2iZMVlU-Y-xa3Et9UGQE0mzZE9n4dmWw7DnBWylBoCftMQAvD_BwE&hvadid=557205077998&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9028309&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=15148077693913078755&hvtargid=kwd-317306567411&hydadcr=18004_13445171&keywords=ssd+250gb+nvme&qid=1671325422&sr=8-5

Here's a link for a great NVME that will serve you well for about 40$

No a 6800 or 6800xt is better without being crazy

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TJ2BHCQ?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1

That's the only normal priced 6800 xt, I think they've been out of stock recently and as a new shipment comes in to retailers they'll drop down to normal

https://www.amazon.com/PowerColor-Radeon-550-Profile-Graphics/dp/B09V2GYKPJ/ref=asc_df_B09V2GYKPJ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=598250021259&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1906256531407834105&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&amp...

Rx 550 2GB brand new

https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-240GB-Solid-SA400S37-240G/dp/B01N5IB20Q/ref=asc_df_B01N5IB20Q/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309807187084&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7313606396158765648&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvd...

And if you don't have a SSD I'd suggest this one but there are also other high quality brands

If you know nothing about computers it may be simpler to go with a Z790. For a Z690 motherboard to work with a 13600k you’ll need to update the bios without a CPU in the motherboard, a process called BIOS flashback. See this video. This isn’t terribly hard but you may want to avoid it by getting a Z790.

Onto the matter at hand RAM performance rarely scales that well with price, I’d recommend getting a 2x16GB 3600cl18 kit for about $85-90 or maybe this kit for something a little faster.

You could get liquid cooled one same price https://www.amazon.com/Sapphire-Technology-Limited-Graphics-11308-06-20G/dp/B097LFWDCX/ref=asc_df_B097LFWDCX/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=545942253969&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11617332470265028710&hvpone=&hvptwo=&am...

I hate to tell you but if your power supply doesnt have a 6+2 cable labelled PCI-E you’re out of luck. Using adapters is also dangerous and you risk overloading your power supply. A great modular 650W power supply under $100 (I’m assuming the card is something like a 1070Ti or a 1080 so 650W should be good) would be the Enermax Revolution DF

https://www.amazon.com/TEAMGROUP-T-Force-Vulcan-3200MHz-Desktop/dp/B07T637L7T/ref=asc_df_B07T637L7T/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=380145854123&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5162891316236983815&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&a...

Might be more convenient to just completely replace the ram since we don't know the exact information of your current ram

https://www.amazon.com/AMD-5600-12-Thread-Unlocked-Processor/dp/B09VCHR1VH/ref=asc_df_B09VCHR1VH/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=583518774644&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2416652079063684035&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&...

Ryzen 5 5600 non-x would be a massive upgrade in CPU power, but your motherboard will need a bios update to support Ryzen 5000 series

You can check the cards VRAM in task manager

His current rig https://www.amazon.com/HP-Pavilion-Computer-Processor-TG01-0030/dp/B07XV7YRSL/ref=asc_df_B07XV7YRSL/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385197824350&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2627648265686513223&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&a...

Also, this is the headset I have.

6800XT $550

The headset I have is this one right here

Oh, my bad lol. This is why checking part dimensions is super important though. You got lucky here for sure.

How much clearance is there between the gpu and the case? You might be able to fit a low profile fan there. If you want to match your current fans, there’s an Arctic P12 slim variant that’s about 10mm thinner (15mm vs 25mm). I’m not sure it would really improve airflow a ton, but it would help alleviate the ugly gap.

If you want to get a fan back in there, this could work. They're really good fans too. Do some measurements first though.

https://www.amazon.com/Scythe-Cooler-Dynamic-Bearing-300-1800RPM/dp/B003E00ZIU

Sorry for late reply, https://www.amazon.com/CubiCubi-Computer-Writing-Storage-Shelves/dp/B082DZFQGQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=11R5E3ZFZ3ZBK&keywords=cubicubi%2Bcomputer%2Bdesk&qid=1671069094&sprefix=cubicu%2Caps%2C123&sr=8-5&th=1&psc=1 It seems the black and brown isn’t the one I have in the pic. I have the opposite of OP( big piece is black small piece is brown)

my bad im probably not using the correct term like one of these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Extension-Desktop-Connector-Adapter-Multilier/dp/B06XKN1LFC

it has 9 pins and has USB on it. I agree, just find it odd that the fans arent running

I just posted my new rig I built in that case. The AIO I used was this one.

Seems to fit nicely. If the size of the ones you are looking at lines up with this one you should be good.

This has a Radeon vega 7 graphics according to the title of the listing. I think I found the same listing here https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/-/zh_TW/R5-VEGA-16G-128G-1T-2/dp/B09YMTKMN8 which says the same thing

your motherboard supports max 32gb of ddr4 ram at a max rated speed of 3200mhz

so your best/cheapest option would be this kit here:

https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-3200MHz-Heatsink-SP032GXLZU320BDAJ7/dp/B092ZCVHS8/ref=sr_1_1?crid=109NEHCSSFHYO&keywords=Silicon+Power+Value+Gaming+DDR4+RAM+32GB&qid=1670935800&sprefix=silicon+power+value+gaming+ddr4+ram+32gb%2Caps%2C59&sr=8-1

If this is for gaming, I would swap out the 5900X for a 5600X, grab this drive (you won't utilize the gen 4 speeds while running games, and gen 3 speeds are still blazing fast) and use the extra money to buy an RTX 3070, or 6750XT.

you're spending too much on RAM and the motherboard.

You can try to find an b550 motherboard for under $110, try Asrock.

I found these RGB 2x8gb ram sticks for $20 cheaper.

You could use the money you save on a case that has real airflow and doesn't look like a prebuilt that's been thru a marketing smack down.

as for sub $300 GPUs XFX and Gigabyte make rx 6600 cards for around $250 to $300. Might get lucky with a 6600xt, look around on ebay

C13 cable

https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-PXT101-Standard-Computer-NEMA5-15P/dp/B000067SLV/ref=asc_df_B000067SLV/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292927312221&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6689464240896509697&hvpone=&hvptwo=...

You don't need to solder get hold of these bad boys;

​

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Electrical-Connector-Chocolate-Terminal-Blocks/dp/B08F7ZDV1C/ref=asc\_df\_B08F7ZDV1C/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=463154703782&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15919208573403747050&hvpone=&hvptw...

You will also need stuff like this to clean your CPU from thermal paste. The new AIO should come with paste already on it. If not, then also buy thermal paste.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCTIC-MX-Cleaner-40-pieces/dp/B09R1TMXR3/ref=asc_df_B09R1TMXR3/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=570266415831&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10041308461646583553&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvd...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cooler-Master-MasterLiquid-Lite-Liquid/dp/B0763PS24T/ref=asc_df_B0763PS24T/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310762440393&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7783056300185365860&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqm...

I’m thinking of getting this vertical mount https://www.amazon.com/LAN2-1X-Premium-Extender-Bracket-Compatible/dp/B082W9JK2Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?crid=QNIH6SS5OWL0&keywords=lian+li+vertical+gpu+mount+pcie+4.0&qid=1670561652&sprefix=lian+li+verti%2Caps%2C139&sr=8-12 and haven’t decided on a better adapter

It looks like your motherboard only has one M2 SSD slot. There are M2-PCIE adapters available, but I've never used one, this may be an option for you.

I'd suggest returning the M2 SSD and getting a SATA SSD instead, you do have 4 SATA ports on your mobo.

The Corsair LL Series LL120 RGB case fans get solid reviews for lighted fans. The Meshify C case will mount 7 x 120mm fans, or 4 x 140mm & 2 x 120mm.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Gqnxmr

And a top of the line wifi card (Intel Ax210) https://www.amazon.com/Ubit-Ubit-AX200/dp/B07Y2MYK4N/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=27M6VT3OFCR5K&keywords=Ax210+pcie&qid=1670477148&sprefix=ax210+pcie%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-3

I think you have a solid build. This is just my bias because of the build I recently put together (I7 12700k and 6800xt GPU) but I would bump that cpu up to a I5 13600k and sell that 3070ti and be able to buy a 6800xt for less. The 6800xt is on par or better than the 3080 outside of raytracing. In my honest opinion, at 1440p, the 3080 isn't really that great at high fps with max raytracing. The last benchmarks i looked at showed 55-60fps with the 3080. The next generation of games will drop that even lower to where you will have to drop graphic settings to maintain 60fps. This is the only chart I could find at the moment to back up my claim but there is a whole review spanning 8 different raytracing games that I can't find right now.

Basically I would rather have 80-100+ FPS without raytracing than 60 or less with it. Its all about your personal preferences though. The 3080 market/street price is significantly higher than the 6800xt. The 6800xt costs about as much as a non-TI 3070 currently.

BAM! 6800XT $570. Better value than the 3080 pricing

Thank you! Im not worried about performance, just wanting to recover the data. Do you think this would work??

https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-SATA-IDE-Adapter-CB-ISA225-U3/dp/B01E7EPKUO/ref=sr\_1\_5?crid=29NEB61O8O4IV&keywords=ide+to+usb&qid=1670287226&sprefix=ide+to+usb%2Caps%2C124&sr=8-5

Absolutely. Most cases come with adapters, but they're readily available.

https://www.amazon.com/4Pin-3Pin-Standard-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01H0OZC9W/ref=sr_1_8

You should be able to use an adapter to drive all four fans off of the single header. Or a separate fan controller, perhaps.

https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Connector-Splitter-Sleeved-CA-PWM-03/dp/B0067LWQ1C

Go ahead and get it, but get this one instead?

https://www.amazon.com/HP-EliteDesk-800-G1-Refurbished/dp/B077RPSMYS

That pricing is a lie, that thing hasn't been worth 600 in almost a decade.

Buy refurbished if you are dead set on a desktop of this type and size.

Everyone else is right, get a laptop.

if it's a cheapo laptop for a budget need, don't be afraid to look at local resellers.

I would recommend buying a black power supply and buying cable extensions as there are no white power supplies in stock in Austria

https://at.pcpartpicker.com/mr/alzaat/PsLFf7

https://www.amazon.de/AsiaHorse-Extension-Supply-Transparent-Length/dp/B0B4PBZCF8/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?crid=3G4F3DHAUBHNZ&keywords=weiße+kabelverlängerung+pc&qid=1670244644&sprefix=white+cabl+%2Caps%2C270&sr=8-14

Only if you want to use wifi or bluetooth. You can also pick up antenna that directly attach to the motherboard, but the signal will likely be blocked by your case. Personally, I'm using this:

https://www.amazon.com/Eightwood-Antenna-Connector-Magnetic-Wireless/dp/B07JVDNDCR/

6.5 feet of cord and you can put it wherever is most convenient.

What do you think about this one:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9X2YYN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5Z17EVQF1AA664A9T7GG ?

I recommend replacing it with a air cooler. Even a cheap one will be as good as the cooler you have now. You can get an expensive one if you want but I would just get this $20 Thermalright

If doing it your self get a tool like this one from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0670-Extractor-Reversible/dp/B000JCT3W0/ref=psdc_551238_t1_B09C5MNHQY

If you get another screw extractor tool be sure not to use a power screw driver. Situations like this you need to do by hand. Dont want a power tool to grind out more metal shavings. The screw is too far gone and in a hole to go after it with pliers.

You might want to replace that screw driver you are using too. The bit head may be also messed up. You dont want to mess up the next screw in one of your builds.

Use support on the opposite side so you dont over flex the board. Go slow. Tape over the graphics slot and any near by slots if needed.

Alternatively (beside taking it to a shop just yet) you can sacrifice the cooler retainer to save the mother board. Its probably the safer method and cheaper. Even if you get the screw out your short a screw (I dunno if you have a spare handy).

That's great! I will start to order this up tomorrow. Thanks for your help.

I am just wondering now, what other things I need to buy separately; Thermal paste, any connectors? Do I need a cooler or fan to sit on top of the cpu?

My friend has a tower case, he bought and never used. same as this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08D6R6NVS?tag=pcp0f-21&linkCode=ogi&th=1

I checked the connector and the motherboard has a jrainbow connection so should work.

https://www.amazon.de/-/en/38-piece-precision-mechanic-screwdriver-computer/dp/B09PY8WQHJ/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3N64Q9Z5IQU5O&keywords=jorest+precision&qid=1670015777&sprefix=jorest+precision%2Caps%2C79&sr=8-2 like this one

Its an ASUS TUF graphics card. Potentially a 1650 one. It can vary depending on the version of the graphics card. But it looks like this.

I can at least help out with what the case and case fans, case is a Corsair 275R MidTower and the fans are ID Cooling Pastel Series, actually bought these exact ones for my fiances build. Instead of a white Corsair it was a pastel pink Darkflash midtower.

https://www.amazon.com/EDUP-3000Mbps-802-11AX-Bluetooth-Wireless/dp/B084P8KHMH/ref=asc_df_B084P8KHMH/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=416794793908&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15625713737733793454&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=...

Looks alright it has a typical dual band connection and has Bluetooth which needs to go in USB 2.0 plug which I think the motherboard has plenty of

You should get the ASUS ROG Strix 750 Fully Modular 80 Plus Gold 750W ATX Power Supply from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YXKMGX7/?coliid=I1238KVWRFAMB&colid=X5RWNMCEXLZB&ref\_=lv\_ov\_lig\_dp\_it&th=1

Thank you for your comment. I only have one spot for a single fan on the rear and I wasn't sure if that would help given I'm still exhausting heat through the top.

This is the fan, there's a lot more to it than the photo indicates: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRS2HE7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's mounted so that it's directly above the rear top fan and it's moving all the air out the back instead of just wafting around the general area.

Does that help to explain it better? Do you think I still need to create more natural ventilation as you suggested?

Yeah glass looks great but it doesn't tend to flow well. Is there a swappable panel they supply for that, or would it be a DIY thing?

If it's DIY, you might look for some 240x120, or 280x140 magnetic mesh screens that you can cut to fit the panel (to include cutting the magnets). Pull the glass off, and replace it with a mesh screen. If you're a bit more on the handy side, I'm sure you could add some structure under neath so it wasn't just a flexible mesh on the front.

Not sure if you're in the US but this would be the kind of thing I'm talking about.

https://www.amazon.com/280mm-Computer-Filter-Grills-Magnetic/dp/B08B1JWFZ8/

In that case... I am sorry. You will probably have to remove the bottom case. Which requires some tools you may not have.

• Small Philips screwdriver "#0" or "#1"
• Plastic Nylon Spudger or Pick
• Probably best to just get a repair kit like this. Very useful for ever.
  • iFixit Essential Electronics Toolkit - PC, Laptop, Phone Repair Kit

Here is a video for a similar model. Acer Nitro 5 (AN515-58) - disassembly and upgrade options

Here you go https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09YTL3JT5

Thermalright PA120, best price to performance air cooler on the market. More than enough thermal performance for a 13600K for 36 bucks and will fix you're issue completely.

It will be usable, so you should be good with maybe a lower FPS. The SSD will be the biggest issue. My sons old laptop came with a 256GB drive and he was always having issues with space and stuff running from the HDD was slow. We upgraded to 500 GB SSD and he had enough room for a couple big games on it which greatly improved performance. Disk space management will need to be learned. Something even as cheap as this will make a huge improvement, I would get better if you can like a Samsung or Crucial if you can afford it.

https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Performance-Internal-SP512GBSS3A55S25/dp/B07997QV4Z/ref=asc\_df\_B07997QV4Z/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312824707815&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2883262716865343945&hvpone=&hvptwo=...