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The most popular reviews in /r/Plumbing:
You can cut it and put an Air Admittance Valve on it, it’ll act like a vent without letting gases put.
They're called Quadcuts. The one I have is Ridgid I think but for the life of me I can't find it on their website. Super handy to have though.
Here's a link to some other brand on amazon, Exactly what you're looking for though. (Amazon)[https://www.amazon.com/Quadcut-QC-2000-Tubing-Cutter/dp/B00P1UG7A6]
As someone who recently got a toilet bowl attachment bidet from amazon I'll go into detail. This might be slightly graphic for some of you.
I bought something like this a year ago. It sat around in my shed and I finally decided to install it during the Great TP Shortage Of 2020.
What I've learned;
(Here's where it gets uncomfortable) I've got some problems down there. (Anal Fissure for 5+ years) This went away almost immediately, I had lingering issues for a month or so, but after that. Gone.
If you want to be clean, you have to aim for the leather cheerio. This is... disturbing at first. If you've never had a tightly streamed and aimed jet of water aimed at your balloon knot, well, you're in for an experience!
Once you've acclimated yourself to this sensation, you've discover that the self enema is even more cleansing.
I know it sounds crazy, but once you discover how... dirty.. your ass has been for your entire life, you really won't be able to go back. And don't be mistaken. If you wipe with TP, your ass is dirty.
If you step in dog-crap bare-foot, do you go inside and pull some paper-towels down and wipe your foot off? No, you get the hose and blast that thing! Why is your butt any different?
So, in conclusion. You target the Smelly Freckle and give yourself a Self Enema and wipe the left over water off your Cinnamon Ring. You'll consider how you were such a dirty hobo before!
Edit: Try to stick to the lower/mid range settings. Only the truly adventurous turn it to high.
Hi there, the pipe shown is durum type pipe. Clean the threads with a wire wheel or brush and you can install a male-threaded adapter in either PVC or ABS. You could also use this fitting that will allow you to use a chrome metal p trap Eastman 35403, Brass Heavy-Duty Male Trap Adapter with Slip-Joint Connection and Compression Ring, 1.4 x 2 x 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00838J7T6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3WZ6YAZHNKKYSEPSE8SD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That will help you!
https://www.amazon.com/Shower-Flange-Shaped-Extension-Chrome/dp/B07VQ938DZ
Unless you like the hacked look, this is what you are looking for, not the others. Don't forget to pick up a new plate also since it's changing form bronze to chrome. I have neve see one of these in bronze, sorry.
It's cheap, easy to install and works. I've had mine for little over a year. No reason not to try it for $35
Have you tried their Multi-Tool? I didn't think I would use it very often, but find myself grabbing it all the time.
Knipex 002006S1 3-Piece Cobra Pliers Set (7-Inch, 10-Inch, & 12-Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X4KNTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_O5HerMerjQW2o
Tools are good. Don't know what he needs but these are the best pliers out there.
I had a split water line (from freezing) going to the outside. This was my solution, it clamps around the pipe and uses the clamping pressure to seal the crack.
That's a Kohler valvet stem. You still have the mounting nut attached, which is sold separately.
Figure out if you need the hot version (CW Close) or the cold version (CCW close.)
https://www.amazon.com/Cold-Assembly-Kohler-Valvet-GP30004/dp/B078B3C4HR
Depending on the brand, if purchased new, there should have been one included in the carton with the faucet. But then again you wouldn't have posted here if it were in your possession.
Neoperl has a 4-key kit, designed to fit most concealed aerators, available through Amazon: Neoperl 11 9110 5 Cache Plastic Clip with 4 Keys
Of course, you could always contact the manufacturer if you know the brand of the faucet.
Dunno. You should normally never use Drano, unless this sub-Reddit or a knowledgeable plumber advises you to — and I doubt that we will ever advise you to. Drano is hazardous and generally a bad idea. See the sidebar to the right. Do you own a drain snake? Have you tried snaking the drain?
[Edit: On second thought, now that you've poured hazardous chemicals into your drain, even snaking the drain may be a very bad idea. I'm not sure.]
Consumer Reports isn't a big fan of chemical drain cleaners. http://www.consumerreports.org/content/dam/cro/news_articles/home_garden/Consumer_Reports_Drain_Cleaners_11-06.pdf
nice simple way to do it.
if you get tired of pumping by hand i made mine with one of these $20 12v diaphram pumps and ran myself a fused wire and switch off the the underseat battery. basically a self-priming RV potable water pump with a built in pressure switch.
I kept mine switched off except at the jobsites, cuz i had a something tumble and make the hose leak (it's not really a professional pump with real plumbing connections), or this one worked pretty good with 1/2" supply lines, but doesn't have a pressure switch, so you have to turn it on and off with a toggle switch, which is dangerous with wet hands, so i like the first one better as i can just keep the line under pressure and when i open the tap, the pump kicks on, when i close the tap, pump gets the line back to 70psi and cuts off
More parts for failure, but for $30 in parts it's a fun little setup, and not needing gravity opens some options on where you can keep the reservoir.
Try adding a tension rod and another curtain.
No worries. Those are precisely the style of angle stop that would create the issue I described.
A good way to test this theory would be to shut the stop off, disconnect the supply line, attach a new supply line, open the stop slowly and run it into a 5 gallon bucket. If the hammering persists then you've found your problem.
If that does turn out to be the problem I would advise replacing both angle stops with Brasscraft 1/4 turn angle stops.
The thumping is the water turning off, creating a water hammer.
The guts.
Fluidmaster 400CRP14 Universal Toilet Fill Valve and Flapper Repair Kit for 2-Inch Flush Valves, Easy Install https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TUHQWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GJPAA7VKYSKMA6SQZSST
>I live in Richmond,Texas and winter is here. The water in our faucets is way too cold on cold days.
bless your heart :)
​
> raise the temperature a little before it reaches all the faucets and bidets.
ok, now you have a legitimate concern.
​
there are cheap tempering valves that are designed to be at the point of use
https://www.amazon.com/Sloan-3326009-MIX-60-Mechanical-Lavatory/dp/B001BO8TWA/
​
you're getting into much more of an undertaking to temper all the cold water coming in. depending on how your bidet is plumbed, something like the above may be all you need.
They are called tectite
That black ring at the front spins off. They don't have any where to grabbed on to and are a pain in the ass if you need to take them off. But usually you shouldn't have to remove them.
Ah they used the wrong kind of tub for a shower… they make long thresholds for the edge you can stick on there like the ones you put in the corner but its a strip that goes along the whole tub. You can cut them to size if it’s too long.
Like this - threshold
Acetylene is totally different than MAPP. MAPP is a synthetic gas that burns cleaner and hotter than propane. MAPP/AIR torches will do a much better job of getting your part up to correct temp fast, and evenly heated, so you get good solder flow. Turbotorch is the popular name brand, they make single and dual burner torch heads ( they are dual fuel , can use propane or MAPP). Unless you are in a confined space, this will make your soldering 10x easier.
TurboTorch 0386-1283 STK-11 Torch Swirl Kit MAP-Pro/LP Gas https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000650T96/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZHTMJXJVM9PFN5WEMH2C
You know they make toilet seats for 5gal buckets right? Coulda bought like 1doz of them for the amount of 80-20 you got there.
Don't use it at all, it's a slim trap and it's garbage.
Use an island tub drain like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016M16DTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_WRXRFbJ4GMZWR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And the included tail piece will screw onto the built in drain/overflow. Add a little grease (included) and just lift and drop the tub down on the drain.
I highly doubt Amazon would actually contract out to a plumber. My guess is that what you get is a general handyman who (hopefully) has some experience installing a faucet. Maybe they send actual plumbers (and charge a lot more) for installing something more challenging. Here's a toilet with $206.49 for expert installation, although I imagine even this they might send a handyman.
Vents higher, and double ty straight left and right with a line cleanout above it. 90s out of wall where center is. You used a lot of stuff for an easy one. As far as water lines. Uponor makes an awesome stud support. https://www.amazon.ca/-/fr/Uponor-Wirsbo-A5750500-PEX-support-Bracket/dp/B00IYI6YQO
The adapters shown on the package will not work with your valve. Sounds like you want 3/4 female flare to 1/2 male flare. Unless the valve leaks it is not in need of replacing. This is the adapter I believe you need based on the picture and description though I will not swear to it.
https://www.amazon.com/Flare-Adapter-Yellow-Brass-Lead/dp/B008RI2YWE
​
You don't need to buy it here and going to the home store to get in person might help you pick the right one. I think your guy might be an idiot.
Just cap off the water heater. Summer is coming on and the water won't be freezing cold anyway. That way you'll save a ton of money. You could also buy a Homer bucket, fill it with water and let the sun warm the water to knock the chill off for that Saturday night bath party.
If you're dead set on using off brand push on fittings here you go. Don't know if they are legal in the States though.
Make your life easier, get the model with double union ends. Quick swap. Undo nuts on both sides, pull old. Clean up the old union mating surfaces and pop the new one in. Turn water back in SLOWLY. Adjust pressure. GTG. double union model
I got a TOTO Drake toilet with a C100 Washlet and the pair has been great. No fancy auto-opening lid but it does the job!
Here is the part on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/American-Standard-7381424-100-0070A-Vormax-Silicone/dp/B00Q7FN8OC
You have an American Standard Vormax toilet.....same as mine. Great toilet.
If you have a local supply house they will have this. Ask them for a schedule 80 one. Just need the union, a nipple, primer/cement and ptfe tape.
If you have access to the pipes behind the bath you could add the bypass valve and a recirculating pump. That's what I did to my bathroom and it's awesome. I put the pump on a smart outlet and tell google to turn on the hot water a few minutes before taking a bath or shower and it's been a hand changer. We no longer run the water for 2-3 minutes just to get hot water. It was super easy to install. I put the bypass valve under the bathroom sink because it was a lot less work then to add it to the bathtub pipes. The sink is only a few feet from the tub. If you have individual pipes running to the sink and run it won't work for you, but my sink and tub are connected to the same hot water pipe from the basement.
This is what I installed.
Most drains are the type that unscrew using the following tool that can be purchased from any big box home store or Amazon.
Armour Line RP77323 Tub Drain Remover Wrench, Hea... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756JVM5N/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_glt_fabc_9FBFF9SH903CW19B1WW5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If the crossing metal pieces on the drain brake or are already broken then use this tool....
Check out what I found at Lowe's 1.5-in Drain Removal Wrench https://www.lowes.com/pd/Superior-1-5-in-Drain-Removal-Wrench/5000204639
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X4J2EI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_K2X70MBZ9BF16Z5PQAKY
Yup, they are amazing. I bought then when I was installing a lot of polished chrome lav traps. I use them more than I thought I would.
Edit: mine are the black ones. Not chrome
I used to have a two-part folding pad. One part was extra thick so it made up the space between the floor and bottom of the cabinet while the second part was thin but extended into the cabinet to save your back from the lip of the face frame.
https://www.amazon.com/Plumbers-Service-Plumber-Save-your/dp/B000P3T2IS
This will help https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085YC34LT /. Just be sure to remove it when you're not actively monitoring filling the tub otherwise you risk overflow.
You're going to want to replace your sink strainer. Something like what I linked. You could look for videos on how to do that. You may want to pick up some plumber's putty for the install.
You'll probably want to pick up a new tailpiece and attach that to the strainer and the black ABS pipe. Looks like the current one has a stopper in it? Personally I'd get rid of it.
If you're interested in a decent tool belt such as the o e linked below, this works great. I'm not a professional plumber,but I am a GC and I love this belt. I'm 5'6 and 170 pounds 33 inch waist. This works great.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TCWWYQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_6ZwSFbP900RCG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
No shit, thank you! I searched Amazon for "delta tub spout with diverter" and this showed up. After reading the reviews, it's an exact match for the one I'm trying to replace: Masco 32192.
That saves me the headache of trying to remove that fitting. Thanks again.
I had a similar experience with Ferguson's when I was looking for Milwaukee MegaPress jaws to do gas piping. Despite me giving him the correct SKU# three frickin' times, he ordered the ProPress jaw kit instead. Not once, but twice.
One good thing to come out of that fiasco was finding out that the Ridgid MegaPress jaws work just fine in the Milwaukee tool, are about $800.00 cheaper and aren't on indefinite back-order status with Milwaukee -- I had them within 4 days from Amazon and they work great in the Milwaukee tool.
It felt good retiring my trusty, 45 year old Ridgid 300. It was time -- I got a lot of mileage out of it and it had more than earned its retirement. I still have it set up in my shop for making odd-ball size nipples, but mostly it sits there wafting cutting oil fumes at me every time I walk into my shop. Good times.
It is a Delta brand faucet. You can get parts for it almost anywhere that sells plumbing parts. I have one of these.
Change the cartridge.
The little push button on the bottom can be rebuilt.
Get a new trim and knob. That is the easy way.
Here is the kit on Amazon:
Delta Faucet RP77744 Single-Lever Handle Rebuild Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LBI17KW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6XX-CbB647AMG
Watch where your parts are when you take it apart. Use plumbers grease when reassembling. This is a clear grease that you get at Home Depot.
Be sure that the water is turned off before you start. There may be some valves behind the wall. You will probably have to turn off the water to the house. (I have to put this part in for obvious reasons).
That's a Pfister Breckenridge faucet. https://www.amazon.com/Pfister-LF-049-BCKK-Breckenridge-2-handle-Bathroom/dp/B074YCH8W7
That's a Delta tub spout adapter and is somewhat recent.
Delta Faucet RP12307 Adapter with O-Ring Tub Spout https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Q2RZBC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LMoOCbBWCCFQG
You can buy most Delta spouts that will fit this, or unscrew it and build it back to fit your new spout.
Edit. I would buy a new delta spout and new adapter just to replace the oring if it was me.
I work in HVAC controls and when I redid mine I used two relays that pick up the singal from the T-stats and those are tied to the enable command for the boilers heating loop. That way if any area is calling for heat the dry contact closes and the Boiler comes on and the T-stat controls the zone valve. As far as I know those taco valves are just really expensive relays with a LED light.
I used something like these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DIVCVPO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xldSBb5VBC6EH
Honestly though, I wished my Boiler looked that good.
Don't know where you live but you need some of these You can get them up to 10cm so should be plenty https://www.amazon.nl/Kraanverlenging-messing-aansluitverlenging-fitting-schroefdraadfitting/dp/B00N4WI9QI/ref=asc_df_B00N4WI9QI/?tag=nlshogostdsp-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=430577101905&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10888753019803596914&...
OP, I'm copying a post I have made for others. Feel free to ignore the first part of you're happy with your pump but you definitely need the sensors. This is your solution:
Trust me op get these two things
A liberty 247 sump pump will last a long, long time
And this will change your life:
Sensors that you zip tie to the discharge pipe to tell the pump exactly when to start and stop. Zip tie the float of your pump to the on position, and these sensors determine when the pump gets power. Set the on sensor to just below the bottom of your inlet pipe. Set the off switch about two inches off the bottom so the pump doesn't suck air. Result is the pump is doing longer cycles, less often, results in a happy pump.
Additionally get a Flo by Moen water sensor and use the remote sensing disc that comes with it. Dangle the disc into the pit and tape the cable so the sensor hangs one inch above the high water mark. If it senses water it will alert your phone. If you want to go next level buy a UPS for your modem so that the water sensor will still alert your phone in a power outage.
Additionally get a second sensor and place it on top of the lid of the sump pit in case the one dangling inside fails.
And finally depending on your level of paranoia, buy a Google nest cam, mount it to the discharge pipe pointing straight down. 24/7 live feed of your sump pit, and you can set alerts to notify you when it hears a sound, which would tell you how often it cycles assuming the check valve makes noise. I deliberately have a noisy check valve for this purpose.
Another way of monitoring how often the pump cycles is to get a smart receptacle that tells your phone when power is drawn from that plug.
Cheers
I grew up on city sewer (30+ years) and have spent the past 11 years at 2 homes with septic systems. What I have learned is this, there is conflicting information that is biased to whatever direction the speaker makes money from.
We have never had need to have either of the tanks at either of our houses pumped. We are very careful that as little as possible goes into the system that could cause a problem or ruin it. Like Oil, Grease, fat, latex paint, fabric softener. Any of the prior can coat the system, or the leach field reducing reaction and also halting liquid absorption. Also no harsh chemicals in significant amounts, for example no antibacterial/antimicrobial cleaners. No "flushable" wipes. And no septic tank treatment products.
The reason to avoid the treatment products is some opinions out there state that by nuking your system with too much helpful bacteria, you can over saturate with bacteria. When you do that, you can starve the tank allegedly. Sounds logical, so why waste the money on it.
Things we do let go down the drain, non/low phosphate dishwasher detergent ( https://www.walmart.com/ip/Great-Value-Fresh-Scent-Dishwasher-Powder-Pacs-With-Grease-Fighting-Action-85ct/16609300 ). Laundry soap. Dish Soap. Food bits smaller than 1/8". Bleach in small amounts (no more than .25gal per day). Soaps, shampoos, conditioners, denture cleaner, ammonia based floor cleaners. And lots of water and human waste.
Mostly what I try to do is never kill the microbe action. You want it to be able to breakdown anything that isn't liquid. If you can avoid that, and the system is right sized for the location, then you may not need to have it pumped very often or at all.
That PVC piece is in upside down. There is a rubber bushing that goes between the PVC and the cast iron. I did something similar with ABS. I ended up chipping out the male end of the cast iron and the lead and oakum and then lubed up the bushing and coerced it in. It was not fun or easy.
Something like this.
Fernco Inc. 432-401 4-Inch by 4-Inch Bushing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VZPZQS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_qP7Hub1C68WEY
Cutting the cast iron back and then using a no hub coupling to a PVC no hub adaptor might be easier all around.
I'd recommend calling local water treatment companies (like Culligan) and see if they do free water testing - that's really the only way to decide exactly what you need. You can easily install thousands of dollars in equipment that won't help you. The most important thing in the basement is keeping drafts out. If the cold air can't get in, the ambient temperature of the ground will keep you over freezing. Still, more insulation is better. Get yourself an infrared thermometer and look around for cold spots and drafts - also a great way to find them indoors while you're at it.
[Data supporting my position is pretty widely available.}(http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/appliances/heating-cooling-and-air/water-heaters/tankless-water-heaters/overview/tankless-water-heaters-ov.htm)
If you installed them yourself, then your advice is based on circumstances that aren't readily replicable...If you would have done what most people, and certainly OP, will need to do (hire someone to install it), then you would see that they are not as economical as they claim to be.
>Further, I would suggest that these units would bankrupt the companies that sell them if the dropout rate was high.
Not true - government subsidies are helping to make them economical, so it's the government that's being affected in the losing-money way. Of course, they're already bankrupt anyway.
>But to not consider competing technologies/methods/brands in any purchase decision is folly.
In reality, to consider foolish options is the only folly.
Looks like Skitch. Couple of years ago it was available on Windows, but then they pulled it back to just Mac and mobile. I think similar markup functionality might be available in the full Evernote client for Windows though.
Fernco FPW248CS 1" Pow-R Wrap Pipe Repair https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002Q7GX88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FYH8NS6EW36MM6BMQJMF
You need to budget to get this line replaced. If it is starting to leak it will probably find other places to fail. In the mean time. This stuff is no joke. Follow the instructions, and wear PPE when applying it with clothes you don’t mind ruining. I have used it on steam condensate lines, sewer lines, and other piping to get us by until we can get a shutdown scheduled and a proper repair completed.
There's nothing wrong with exposed pex inside. Outdoors, yes! Bad idea! But you'll have no problem inside. Your only problem is you probably lack the tools to do this. If this is the only time you'll do a PEX repair, just get one of these:
Inexpensive and work fine. But professionals don't use them as they aren't practical for more than one or two connections. They take too long.
Good luck
Oh damn, well it REALLY leaked without the tape. I hand tightened it and then went one more full turn with a wrench, the directions on it said not to go further. I still went further another turn and it was still leaking.
It's one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Eastman-48233-Heater-Connector-Stainless/dp/B07B1RN66J
I am pretty sure the threaded portion is an aftermarket part.
You can buy that threaded part separate, it’s with the generic escutcheons at Home Depot.
You don't clear a tub from the drain. You clear it from the overflow plate. The only thing you want to send down the drain is a hair zip, to remove built up hair.
https://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Products-Drain-Cleaning-1-Pack/dp/B00OM31OOM
Could maybe try epoxy putty to essentially re-mold the missing piece? You would have to mold the form closely to the missing piece so gasket can make a solid seal. Not sure if it’d work but maybe worth a try prior to replacing sink
Loctite 1999131 Loctite Multi Purpose Repair Putty, 2 Ounces, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ETX4590/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_4XSXJ55MQXR7V2SGQK3H
No lol, mils is an imperial measurement, one one thousandth of an inch. Like when you buy contractor bags and you can get 5-10-15mil bags, same deal.
https://www.amazon.com/Corrosion-Protection-Pipe-Wrap-28-PWTP41-2/dp/B00EGY05ME
That there is specifically what I stock but it’s basically all the same shit I’m sure.
i priced this out a year back...
the best bang-for-my-buck ended up being a 4.5x20 pentek big blue as a primary sediment filter, for all the house except hose-bibs, followed by a 3m aqua-pure 3MFF100 for drinking water taps in the kitchens (duplex)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M216HFW/
it's a bit of a spend on the 3m filter, but the price per gallon is $0.025, and that filter is one of the few that is fully certed and tested by 3rd party verses "self testing" done by many other vendors.
i looked into going RO, but you end up needing to replace the pre-filters more often and the flow rates are kind of crappy, plus i didn't want to maintain a storage tank.
American Standard invented their own captured nut arm - to go with their own shower head, way back in the day...you can hunt down an adapter to convert that captured nut into a standard shower head outlet, or remove the entire shower arm from the wall and replace it with a standard shower arm, onto which you can install any shower head you buy.
Here's an adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/Whedon-AS1C-American-Standard-Adapter/dp/B000KKPCXA
I don’t think that’s a moen cartridge. This looks similar
I bought a set of picks and I end up using them so much for faucet repairs, pulling hair out of drains, unclogging tubes of silicone and other random shit. So useful.
https://www.amazon.ca/TEKTON-6943-Precision-Pick-4-Piece/dp/B000NPPBQK
Looks like it just needs a handle.
You can try turning it with a pliers but if it's stuck a bit you'll ruin the stem.
Something like this would work fine.
VIVOSUN 1150GPH Submersible Pump (4500L/H, 100W), Ultra Quiet Water Pump with 11ft High Lift, Fountain Pump with 5ft Power Cord, 4 Nozzles for Fish Tank, Pond, Aquarium, Statuary, Hydroponics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086QJQK8N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VGEQ1G3TG4APRAK4F5JW?psc=1
Check this one out. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L3NQMXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_P53BN28H69T4WY06QF8M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 . Most of these structured water devices sell for well over $1000usd for whole house filter. Those are just marbles in a pvc pipe. Trick is the marbles are arranged a certain way to restructure the water 😂. This one spins it.
I've been using this pair for a few months. Extremely comfortable and the thigh support stops them from slipping down or to the side.
https://www.amazon.com/Toilet-Bolts-Open-End-Plastic/dp/B000KKMWRY
A proper set flange, a wax ring, a level floor, and these type of bolts, are a great combination. I always use this with American Standards as well. In the Pro toilets, there are separate closet bolt caps these bolts will work with.
The pressure range should be 30/50 on a jet pump, 40/60 on a submersible, or there abouts.
This is going to depend on the pump and the well. You may only be able to adjust it to 20/40, or 25/45.
Don't strain the pump, just let it do what it can do.
I use this showerhead, it used to be Alsons before Delta bought them.
That's a bottle trap and they are allowed under both model codes in the US however a small amount of places don't allow them. Look like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081V948WF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_N6P59B0RMTRRZW4688EY
Drum traps which are illegal look like this picture although you can rotate them different ways (back when we installed them I always had clean out facing up for example) https://www.reddit.com/r/Plumbing/comments/8cz0g0/replacing_a_drum_trap_with_a_p_trap_what_to_watch/
Not sure what size that hole is but they sell plugs specifically for these kind of old drains, heres the link to a 1" plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019LYCEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_MD8H3TDPDNPQWJQ4GRJD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
But ide measure and find the exact size and look up a plug that will fit it, otherwise if it's no longer connected to a drain you could just cover it, but judging by the water in it ide say it still is connected
a piece like this - pvc weld in one side, screw connection on the other, and the chrome pipe goes inside and screw over top
I use theses, got one from Menards for a few bucks. You may need to snake it if those don’t work.
Vastar 3 Pack 19.6 Inch Drain Snake Hair Drain Clog Remover Cleaning Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DP87IF8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_457WCS8ZBYVJXBBSDSRM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Start here.
https://www.amazon.com/Danze-DA603567-Washerless-Cartridge-Faucets/dp/B000VZP4I2
see the seats and springs, and temp limit stop under the " Frequently bought together" section? Buy those too.
Put it all together, but where did your locking nut go? I don't see it in any picture.
Not knowing the how's and why's of the original reason for getting that valve, you can use a standard brass gate valve on the PVC. Instead of male adapters though I'd recommend using threaded schedule 80 nipples to the valve, they are less brittle than sch 40 male adapters. Just take the nipple, cut the threads off one end and glue away.
Also if there's no specific reason for that valve (engineered specs, local code or whatever) just buy a slip by slip schedule 80 valve. Spears makes excellent PVC fittings.
https://www.amazon.com/Spears-2022-007-Schedule-Gate-Valves/dp/B00B40D30E - that's a 3/4 inch one but they make them in all sizes. Pumped septic systems often use 2" ones on the pump discharge.
My best investment: Wallobot Stud Finder
Let's you see everything going on inside a wall.
I bought this....hopefully it fits, if you buy.
Faucet and Sink Installer,（8-in-1）Multi-purpose Wrench Plumbing Tool for Toilet Bowl/Sink/Bathroom/Kitchen Plumbing Repair Installation Hand Tools(red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SRYS4N4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_A5NB4W15SKNZM8XJCA09?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
DON'T attempt to unscrew that drain. Just buy a couple of these at your closest hardware store and extract the years of hair and scum that have collected and blocked your drain.
https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Drain-Snake-Remover-Cleaning/dp/B01DP87IF8
If that doesn't solve your problem, then remove the cover from the overflow plate and send a small auger down there.
What type of drain snake did you use? I used this one in my sink and it worked well. Not sure if it works for tubs drain snake hair clog link
You need a better puller, that "universal" one is junk. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00065DH2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_XSC2EPTPRZ9CA6NBR04H?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Then you can put a wrench on the end if you need the leverage.
It should unscrew w/o too much trouble (I don't think there's a set screw). Then you can look at it to see what's wrong or replace it.
baking soda and vinegar does pretty much fuck-all. it makes fizz and salt, that's it.
you can use something like this on a regular basis to help keep clogs down but really the best cure is prevention - keep the hair out in the first place. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001N09KN4/
I've just discovered "socket saver" as a potential solution.
How far down?
If not too far, maybe try one of the plastic trap clean out tools. Flexible with prongs that grab. Likely can grab one at HD or Lowes.
Clean Out Too
Superior tool basin buddy
Ridgid sink tool
Edit: spelled tool correctly, didn't check phone keyboard swipe
use this for your rough in. Then buy a trim kit. I buy these for my flips. But you can buy different trim kits. The bottom handle adjust temp. The top handle switches between 3 different functions. 1 side, the other side , or both. Commonly used for rain falls shower heads. They also sell the top diverter in 4 function but I don’t know the part number. Any supply house can help you.
You don’t need any high pressure diverters. 1/2 pex will supply enough pressure to shoot across the room. It’s usually the shower head or sprayer that drastically reduces the pressure
Edit. I didn’t realize you said u wanted 4 to be on individually or all on at once. So that’s 5 options. I don’t have an answer for that. I’m sorry
A rubber hose & hose clamp could be used to attach something to that non-code-compliant spout. Maybe something like this.
They sell those at Home Depot, bring it with you, look for the shark fin, or Amazon https://smile.amazon.com/KOHLER-GENUINE-GP1078440-FLAPPER-SHARK-FIN/dp/B001GZUMTC/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=kohler+toilet+flapper&qid=1619218704&sprefix=kohler+toilet+f&sr=8-8
It looks to be something like this, right?
Not entirely sure on the size, but I'm sure it's a fairly common size.
You’ll look like you’re serious about doing things right if you have one of these. A lot of plumbers don’t even seem to know that no-hub bands should be torqued correctly
Jimmy Sponge Stix for painting behind toilets. Saw the painters using this on a job a little while back and it seems pretty effective.
This is what I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1V56W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I actually don't like the isometric graph paper. It's okay, but isos look way cleaner if the only lines are pipe lines, dimension lines, extension lines and numbers. I just key it off the edge of paper to start, then do that for new lines or key off the first line, or set a temp straight line further in from edge of paper that I'll erase later.
You want a DUAL FUNCTION shower valve. Most major manufacturers have them.
See the small front handle on THIS one ?
Crescent Lufkin 5/8" x 6' Red End Plumbers Wood Rule - 626LN
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LHM58ZW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_Gc7-FbP7ETQJR
I use one everyday along with pliers and a level. It’s useful because it allows you to do 45 offsets without doing math. It’s made of real wood too.
Nice Toto Drake you have there.
The fill valve is made by Korky, and it's basically a Korky QuietFill made especially for Toto. Korky now makes a Universal Toto fill valve which is considered OEM and can be adjusted to spec for just about any Toto model. The instructions for the adjustments come with the valve and they're quite simple.
You can adjust the water level by sliding the top portion of the fill valve up and down, but only after freeing a lock ring down at the base (inside the tank). You can find directions on the Korky website, I'm sure.
I bought this set recently for radiator... Sadly still frozen so will have to cut out valve.
https://www.amazon.com/Multi-Functional-Plumbers-Triangle-Radiators-Electric/dp/B07ZYZPTYR
I agree the s trap the issue, the head of water has to go right up round the top bend, which pulling the water up and through the trap.
the are multiple solutions to put right, personally I'd replace the whole trap with an anti syphon bottle trap and drop that down into the top of the clean out/rodding tee... 5 min job