forklift is a mac sftp/ftp application. he just needed the root account info.
op: the account information is different for arkos and the ra as well if you swap to those.
This message is displayed, if the device can not find a proper boot sector. Most likely, your card is corrupt. Sometimes it helps to format the card with the official SD Formatter. Make sure to activate the Overwrite Format toggle.
Agree with using linux dd. You can boot your computer with system rescue cd. https://www.system-rescue.org/
With that, you can run "fdisk -l" to see which sd card is which. Knowing which one is which, you can use dd to clone the cards like this:
dd if=<source card> of=<target card> bs=4M status=progress
Your command might look like:
dd if=/dev/sdc of=/dev/sdd bs=4M status=progress
Hope this helps!
Russ covers this issue in his Retro Game Corps guide:
Written Guide (video on page):
https://retrogamecorps.com/2021/03/23/fix-the-format-disk-windows-10-error-emuelec-arkos-351elec/
As /u/ghost_of_a_fly mentioned, Disk Genius is the tool to use, and it's really easy.
This is the one usually suggested. I have it and it works great. Obviously you will need a USB to USB C adapter.
This is the one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WRRJCC7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It would always show the battery icon as charging, and when I pressed the sleep button it would wake up like 2 seconds later each time.
Hey dude.
EDIT Oh, just reread your comment, but buy that thing I linked on Amazon. It's a fucking game changer, having 3 USB wall chargers is super nice, like I charge my fitbit, vape, and 351 all at once. Best 20 bucks I ever spent. I thought you were asking a different question about the v's battery, and I wrote this weird ass answer, and left if for general info incase you care or anyone googling does
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08N67H3CK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Umm, the battery on the V is pretty shitty imo. I have a bunch of these things, and the battery sucks on all of them.
Like, I love the 351v, it's my favorite I own, but they advertise 4-6hrs of gameplay, buy if you're playing PS1 (which is what I mostly use it for) you're lucky to get 4.
So then, just take it as you will. I mostly play it plugged in when I'm at home, so no worries. For an hour bus ride to the city, and an hour bus ride home, again, that's fine.
Push comes to shove, buy yourself a nice powerbrick and keep it handy.
When the lens cover for my phone's camera fell off I used double sided thermal tape to put it back on (cut into thin strips with a razor) . It's stayed on for several years since then:
https://www.amazon.com/AVNTKER-25mx20mm-Adhesive-Conduction-Conductive/dp/B094VMDTH3/
Adding Bluetooth would be a matter of desoldering the existing wifi chip and soldering in a dongle that supports wifi and Bluetooth. Like this one:
I've never seen an HDMI mod. I highly doubt anyone would have hacked theirs up enough to try and accomplish this. Better off picking up an RG353M for that.
This TP-Link Nano AC600 USB Wifi Adapter (Amazon link) has never failed me. Used it with rg351p, rg351mp, and rgb10 (and lots of PCs). Some other WiFi dongles I've had worked great, but just came apart after inserting and removing them several times. This one is solid and uses more robust materials than those others.
I swapped a RG351p screen due to a hot line recently, only needed my usual electronics disassembly screwdriver set (I think it is a knockoff of a Xiaomi/Wiha set) and some spudgers.
I'd highly recommend that style of 4mm bit set with a handle that has a rotating back for anyone who works on small electronics. I'd also suggest the bits with the grey oxide finish tend to grip better than the chromed ones.
There are quite a few similar-design sets of varying bit selection, case style, and price.
I’ve used this one with my MP. It hasn’t gotten noticeably hot, works with AmberELEC, and it even supports 5GHz.
TP-Link Nano AC600 USB Wifi... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PB1X4CN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I must have bought one of the models that didn't come with an adapter. I bought this adapter and it works great. I plug it in with a usbc adapter I got with a cell phone once upon a time.
This adapter is technically the closest you can get to what comes with the device. Assuming you got the same adapter that I did, it's a Ralink (now MediaTek) MT7601U adapter. According to their Wikipedia page, Ralink got acquired by MediaTek 11 years ago, so the adapters that come with these devices are super old. The new adapters with that ID now have an antenna.
I'd agree with /r/PuddleStink though, and (1) consider a different Wi-Fi adapter as well as (2) try swapping out the USB-C adapter.
I can also say that sometimes, for unknown reasons, the Wi-Fi adapter won't connect to a network unless the USB-C charger is plugged in. A little janky, but hey.
I use a TP Link AC600 with an Anker USB C adapter, works a treat. I got rid of the generic unbranded stuff that came with the MP. I don’t trust it.
What have you tried? Maybe the adapter is the issue?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07LGSDBTF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dl_4CYM1YCCF71TNAQQ0VCS
They don't, as many have said. But, if you aren't interested in dropping back to the RG351m (with its 3:2 screen), using a right-angle adapter makes the wifi dongle much less awkward.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083JCK8HX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The 351m, the metal version of the 351p (but with wifi).
Sorry! That was the wrong link. That was a case I had ordered previously for a different handheld. The one in the photo was this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017U1BFXC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_N29EVYWYBT3BYDRV8295?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Whoops! Sorry you're right, that was the wrong link. I just looked through my order history to find it and ended up linking a one that I had bought previously for a different handheld. It's actually this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017U1BFXC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_N29EVYWYBT3BYDRV8295?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
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I use this one.
Also tried a generic one I had laying around that uses same chip and didn't work very well. Then I bought this one. Same as Retro Game Corp recommended.
I'm using these thumbcaps from Skull & Co:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075QN91WF/
They fit over the the existing 351P thumbsticks perfectly (as well as my Switch), and they are in stock.
Unfortunately, the 351 joysticks have a different ribbon cable size/shape/orientation. The MRGC Nintendo Switch joysticks won't work.
I have these replacement thumb caps on two rg351 devices. These were the only ones I could find that replace the original rubber cap, instead of fitting over it. They work pretty well.
Maybe pick up a sound machine and get in the habit of going to sleep with some background noise.
I use Wallpaper Changer https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.j4velin.wallpaperChanger
You put all your pictures in a folder and it randomly picks one.
There's two parts, the USB C to USB A adapter, and the wifi dongle.
This should be a good replacement for the wifi dongle:
And adapter if you need that:
First off, the 351MP uses roughly the same shell/buttons as the older 350M. From my experience, the d-pads on the 351MP and 350M register diagonals perfectly. No problems like the 351M.
Story time: I have two 351Ms and one had the tight d-pad, which I tried to fix by sanding the post. It worked, but I wouldn't do it again. You made the right choice to let it break in naturally. I sanded too much and had to build some height on the main board with tiny squares of embossing label tape.
Are you interested in the 351MP? I have more thoughts on it, but don't want to write you a wall of unsolicited opinions.
To my knowledge those never work. Like some have hdmi out but it doesn't actually work.
You can always get a Super Console X though, it's basically just a 351 with no screen that you plug into the TVhdmi I bought SN30 controller for it and it's fantastic.link
The SCX is expensive af on amazon, well over 100. You can get them for 50-60 on Aliexpress, then you just have to wait like 5 weeks.
The WiFi dongle that comes with it bad and wrong. It is so bad someone should come up with a new word to describe it. Badong. Yes. The Wifi dongle that comes with the RG351 is badong.
You should find something that stands for the opposite of that: gnodab.
Seriously, it is so laughibly bad, I just have to describe it with that clip from Kung-Pow.
An even better Wifi dongle would be this TRENDnet TEW-648UBM WiFi dongle that I've had for year. This venerable little device which I've had since the Raspberry Pi 2B days still works to this day and works perfectly with my RG351MP with the adapter that comes with device.
At under $9 US, it's worth picking up.
You can do this with many Android TV boxes. I personally use the HK1 teal blue android TV box with batocera. It's pretty similar to ArkOs, it just doesn't have the support of all the ports that ArkOs does.
It runs the majority of PSP, Dreamcast and N64 well, and all the generations after this no worries at all. If you pop out the SD card you have access to the android TV box and you can play a whole bunch of emulators and android games on that too. Shop around to see which box suits you though but make sure it supports either Emuelec, Lakka or Batocera.
https://batocera.org/download This here will give you the downloads the different Batocera builds.
The SD cards that come with it are prone to failure and the stock firmware sucks. If you have any micro SDs sitting around now, I'd recommend flashing 351elec to one. It's easy to do, instructions and downloads are at 351elec.de. Retro Game Corps on YouTube has easy to follow guides as well.
There are accessories. I bought this case for mine, there are also grips, vinyl skins and such if you search on Etsy. Depending how much you're willing to taking it apart there are replacement button mods available too.
It can seem overwhelming, but you can tinker as much or as little as you'd like.
It works perfect with Nintendo DS/Lite/DSi/3DS case, Right now I am using my Pokemon Platinum case, works perfect!
​
https://www.amazon.com/Pokemon-Platinum-Traveler-Giratina-Nintendo-DS/dp/B002DQYIKW
​
so you can see what it looks like.
I got a 351M and it didn’t come with a case like that. I got a different case off Amazon, one kind of like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y5V7839/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_PKVMQC3GB72821WN8R4H
I "fixed" it with a ground loop noise isolator: https://www.amazon.com/Golvery-Ground-Loop-Noise-Isolator/dp/B076WKDH46/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
​
Adds a bit of weight but the MP is already pretty beef as is.
Sorry I meant to say ac.
TP-Link Mini - AC600 USB 2.0 Wifi Adapter, 2.4G/5G Dual Band Wireless Network Adapter for PC Desktop, Mini Travel Size, Supports Windows 10, 8.1, 8, 7, XP / Mac OS X 10.9-10.14 (Archer T2U Nano) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07PB1X4CN/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_33Y9DT3H3JPJR3CT74PA
> I know the cable to be used needs to be specific.
Huh? As long as it's usbc, it's fine. I use a magnetic tipped cable.
Rufus doesn't have this option. This is a good idea though, let me look around.
Trying https://www.balena.io/etcher/, which has a validation step. Image copied without fault.
Errgh... Got a page of vertical brown lines on first boot though (Not a kernel panic). Maybe I just knocked the device on the table during boot? Booted fine after a reset.
Shutdown/start, kernel panic, reset, works fine.
Shutdown/start, kernel panic, reset, kernel panic, reset, kernel panic, reset, kernel panic, poweroff/startup, works fine.
Let me try this 16GB EMUELEC card that came with my device again. Does it really works as consistently as I think it does?
Start/Works fine/Shutdown: Repeat x5: No faults, boots great every time.
The logical explanation is that there's something wrong with this SanDisk 16GB card and my RG361MP together. Independently, they seem to work fine.
I'm really wary of formatting my 16GB EMUELEC card as a baseline - it's presently working. I do have the 64GB games card that came with it - that might be worth trying to format. I'll try that next.
I mean, flashing it is not just putting the files on it, technically it should format and repartition the whole drive when flashing the iso or whatever.
Gotta use a program, I personally use this one.
u/Lomandriendrel
You will not be able to use two cards with games (at least not easily). If you insert a card on TF2, the system will look for games on it. So, no reason to get a huge card on TF1 (except if you intend to use just one card for your system and games). Your old SanDisk will do the job. You can flash 351ELEC V firmware on your 16 Gb SD Card using Rufus (https://rufus.ie/).
Yes, you can setup your folders on a spare hard disk or SD Card. You just move the contents of your folders to the folders created by 351ELEC using Windows Explorer.
I would suggest you to not copy your roms to your brand new 256 GB, since your SD Card files will be deleted during 351ELEC setup. 351ELEC will create folders for your roms on TF2, after the first boot with TF2 card inserted.
I am not sure if you would have any speed improvement using U3 class cards. It seems that hardware on these devices is not flagship grade. I would go with Class 10 cards.
[]'s
I would suggest you to flash 351ELEC ou ArkOS on your SDCard with Rufus (https://rufus.ie/) on a Windows PC. I got mixed results using other softwares. Always use brand cards (Samsung or SanDisk).
[]'s
Honestly it's so easy to flash the firmware. I just upgraded to the RG351MP 2 days ago and updated to the new firmware on a spare (legit) micro sd I already have. Just download Rufus, download the firmware you want to run (there's quite a few options) and just select that and your memory card and it should be done for you. You'll have to put the memory card back into your RG351p so it can partition the memory card so that one part is the operating system (you won't see this part on your PC) and the other will be the console folders where you drop your roms in respectively.
Most here would also recommend you find your own rom sets because they might not work well, or get corrupted later on.
Honestly, I'd say it's fine to play on it until your new micro sd card arrives. I will say that I'm from the UK and it looks like I got different memory cards from you as both of mine are black, so I can't say much on the quality of your memory card.
This is the one that I use. It lasts about a week and I got a larger HDD case that fits both my RG351V and the powerbank (granted I take mine nearly everywhere I go).
Just a random side note for anyone reading to say there's an emulator app on android called classicboy that's quite good, can emulate ps1, n64 and Sega games
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.portableandroid.classicboyLite
I've tried multiple cards using different formatting systems including the Official SD Card Formatter. If the second card is in the system, it won't boot. It shuts down right away after showing the message I listed (message shows, there is a five second countdown and then it's powered off). Not getting to the point where I can access options etc.
There are libretro cores available for the Nintendo DS like Melonds - but they do not run well on this hardware - that's why they are not included with ArkOS or 351ELEC. If you want to test this for yourself, you can install Lakka and have a look.
I found this, what do you think?
USB C Hub, Hiearcool MacBook Pro Adapter USB C Dongle, 7 in 1 USB C to HDMI Multiport Adapter Compatible for USB C Laptops Nintendo and Other Type C Devices (4K HDMI USB3.0 SD/TF Card Reader 100W PD) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WPTG7NX/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_KSP1NGE3GQG7S8M23M92
This is the one I bought. SAMSUNG ELECTRONICS EVO Select 256GB MicroSDXC UHS-I U3 100MB/s Full HD & 4K UHD Memory Card with Adapter (MB-ME256HA) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0887P21Z2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_FNASHKTX00P26RJW9CWR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yeah. It would show that its connected to wifi, but when I checked the network settings to see if it got an IP it would only show some MAC looking thing. Bunch of random letters and numbers.
I ended up having once of these lying around in the office. Works like a charm, didn't even need to to get a new wireless adapter.
When asking if this one is "Anberic or another brand" the commenters said its legit, and one of them said it came with the logo on the front. I checked the officially AliExpress page, but they don't ship to Canada apparently :(
They don't have the greatest headphone jack. My Grado headphones simply don't work with my 351V, because the connection is too loose.
My workaround was to use this adapter between the 351V and my headphones (I purchased it awhile ago so the headphone plug didn't stick so awkwardly out of my PS4 controller). Even then, the jack doesn't "click" into place on the 351V like you'd expect. But if I push it in far enough, the mere friction is enough to keep it securely connected.
I picked up this card: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07FCMKK5X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and had no trouble with it at all :)
I've had one of these little $10 Transcend ones for like 5 years and it has been fast and reliable. I like that it has both an SD and microSD socket, because I've problems with microSD-SD adapters and it's nice to be able to ground-truth the microSD itself.
I think there are faster USB adapters available now, these do max out at about 100Mb/s.
I really like this one. SanDisk - SDDR-B531-GN6NN MobileMate USB 3.0 microSD Card Reader - SDDR-B531-GN6NN Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G5JV2B5/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_WYSZF58K25V0JETYKQT6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Order some tools from amazon to open it up. I bought this one was cheap and fast delivery to fix my RG350
​
It will be faster then returning it
Found this case on Amazon for hard drives. The dimensions are 6.0" x 3.7" x 1.2”. It's slightly larger for the length of the 351v (live very slightly), but it's not bad and it doesn't move around when its zipped up.
Hey dude, I'm terrible at reading charger things. I bought this the other day for other reasons, and it's been charging my V just fine. Can you take a glance and tell me if it's good, please? Thank you
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08N67H3CK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've been using an adapter from an Amazon Fire Stick and it works fine but is only 1A so slow. I've order this one to replace it:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DF782WQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought this after recommandation took from retrogamecorp guide:
https://www.amazon.ca/-/fr/gp/product/B00VWEK4IG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's a bluetooth device that I use for connecting the device to my wifi network. Am I mistaken there?
I had your previous iteration made for me but I have still not received my handheld yet. I will test it first and eventually have this one made or whatever iteration you are up to by then, lol. Keep them coming, always good to keep improving your design. Maybe try to match a form of the PS5 or Xbox Series controllers so that with handheld inserted, we can buy controller cases that everything could then fit into. This kinda dealio: Sorry for amazon canada link lol. It may already fit, who knows.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08JGQLDY1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Not a perfect size. Fits the entire display horizontally, but only covers the visible screen vertically. To be honest it bugs me a bit, but there were 3 in the pack, so I will remove the one I have now and try to align things better with a second application.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VVH8Y6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_t1_Kbl7FbDMSX0P9
The device fits snug, I would recommend a slimmer cord or not putting the cord in the case, so to not harm the screen. Anyone know where to get a screen protector??