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Here's the one I use. Nothing fancy, but its been great so far.
If you get a decorative rain barrel you can collect that water and use it on your landscaping
This one is more “stylish” than the typical ones and has two spigots on it so you can attach a hose for easy watering
Good Ideas RWURN50-LIG Rain Wizard Rain Barrel Urn, 50 gallon, Light Granite https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01AUSYA1Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9A0144DK7NKG5WZXNQJZ
You're overcomplicating it. You dont need one in your kickplate, I'd rather keep that clean. I also dont like one recessed flat into the cabinet - if water spills in there it goes right into it. I ran electric into my vanity (much bigger vanity) in two ways.
1) i cut a hole in the back wall of the vanity to expose the electric socket thats on the wall. I dont see any practical reason to hard wire to the vanity, but if you really wanted to you can mount the box inside the vanity on the back wall. Then i mounted a basic power strip on the inside of the vanity.
2) we keep a hair dryer inside a drawer. For that, I bought one of these, and simply mounted it to the inside back of a drawer, and its ultimately plugged into that power strip https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XBPK9HN
Try this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LD0RC4M/
The high density of the wood fiber natural insulation means that it is also very effective at reducing both airborne sound like talking, music, traffic noise, and impact sound such as footstep, moving furniture, rain noise through walls, floors, etc.
I personally recommend enzymes. I've used the Nature's Miracle brand for several decades now, and it has never failed me.
https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Miracle-Cat-Urine-Destroyer/dp/B07DS4XZ83
But they are just a single company. There are plenty of competitors out there. And they all work similarly. You use a black light to discover where the concentrations are:
https://www.amazon.com/Flashlight-Vansky-Ultraviolet-Blacklight-Eliminator/dp/B01A5KLUG2
then you mist the area with enzymes and walk away. It takes time, but the enzymes break down the odor causing compounds into their base components.
Sometimes it takes more than one application, but that's OK. I mist three times a day, sometimes for two or three days. In the end the stench is gone, never to return.
The deflector under the bed won’t do much. The hot air will remained trapped underneath. You would be better off with something that channels the hot air all the way out from under the furniture like this Deflecto Furniture Deflector Air Vent Extender, Linking Clips and Tape Included, For Use with Floor Registers Up to 11" Wide, Clear (UFAD) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0749KXCZF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Q6MCZMRGXD5Q8RC4SNK8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here are some:
2x2 FT LED Drop Ceiling Light Fixture 40W 3000K-4000K-5000K 3 Colors Selectable 0-10V Dimmable, 24x24 Inch LED Flat Panel Light Lay in for Suspended Ceiling, 100-277V, 4400LM, ETL Listed, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KSGR41K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_JXHXVA3JTN1HDCQCGA88
Just do the lights for now. Simple recessed are easy now with kits that require minimal space and knowledge.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07FFPYWHJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_6TC8GAX7197N6M2JQKGN
Don't waste any other money until you can do the entire kitchen right.
Cabinets, counters, blinds, appliances, backsplash, etc. Your list is long.
Ok I think I figured a solution.... putting it straight in would allow you to use the kerdiline lt shower pan with a linear drain. I'll post a link below but this is the waterproofing system I use in all of my showers and is hands down the best you can get.
I would HIGHLY recommend looking into this and finding an entire system. That would include the following:
Shower pan Drain kit Drain grate Kerdi membrane for walls -OR- kerdi board for walls Kerdi curb Seam banding Inside and outside corners
Echoing everyone's outrage here. That curb is a nightmare. As far as the grout goes, you can paint on a grout colorant made by Mapei called Grout Refresh that will make it look uniform. You'll have your work cut out for you will all that penny tile but it may dull the pain of your $27,000 screwing over
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006IS9B2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_oKL4FbM1GHADF
Not sure if this is what you are looking for, but I've used these for a few years: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01342OS3U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They kinda work, but the rubber wears out. Also my dog drags her feet so it adds to the wear they get (she goes up and down the stairs multiple times a day). So maybe they'll work for you?
The box is possibly close to the exterior wall. Thermal bridging would cause the box to chill down to the exterior wall temp.
Your electrical supplier likely carries ‘socket sealers’ to help alleviate that problem:
https://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-OS6H-Outlet-Sealers/dp/B000BRM66I
Wow, those are expensive. Could you comment on what makes it pain for you?
These, right: https://smile.amazon.com/Zircon-Leak-Alert-WiFi-Electronic/dp/B0748RK2XQ
I feel like most of these sensors either have glowing reviews or horrible, there is no middle-ground. It's like it either works, or doesn't except when it throws a wrong alarm. I would probably need to pair it with a camera to make sure there is actual leak in case of false alarms.
It's worth getting the whole kit honestly. The multimeter is a little more advanced usage, but the current detector and outlet tester are super useful. (Just be aware that the current detector can give false positives [detects current when there is none, especially if you move it quickly near a piece of metal/wire] AND false negatives [does not detect current due to too much insulation etc.]; never 100% trust it.)
do you have one of these, and if you, do what does it tell you?
https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-RT210-Receptacle-Tester/dp/B01AKX8L0M/ref=sr_1_6?th=1
easiest way to test if a receptacle is wired correctly and will give an idea what is missing.
You'd need to upgrade to a fixture like this:
https://www.amazon.com/RSN-LED-Daylight-Waterproof-Suitable/dp/B08Z7GGFT9
The trouble will 'wall wash' lights is that so much of the light gets absorbed by the painted wall. It'd be a different story if you were pointing it a mirrors, but that'll never happen. So you need to overpower this deficiency with a lot more lights. The LEDs will do that, and use a lot less power at the same time.
P.S. Don't think that particular unit is dimmable, but you can find what you need with a bit of time and your computer.
Hi all renovators out there!
I would like to add a shower screen (e.g. like this one on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B09VCN1X8G/) to the bathtub in my new rental home.
Problem is the utility space on the far side, as there would still be a gap between the shower screen and the wall - which would inevitably lead to permanent water spillage while showering.
Do you have any idea about products or possibilities to "fill" this gap?
You can find urine with a black light, as it fluoresces:
https://www.amazon.com/Flashlight-Vansky-Ultraviolet-Blacklight-Eliminator/dp/B01A5KLUG2
Then use enzymes to destroy the odor causing compounds:
https://www.amazon.com/Urine-B-Gone-Concentrated-Completely-Eliminate-Biological/dp/B07DFTPVBZ
No problem! Bought it off Amazon after doing a lot of research. Here’s the link.
I’m actually really happy with both the quality and the install. I would have liked a little more detailed instructions but it’s not too bad. I was just concerned with mounting it too deep in the wall after underestimating the tile and thin set depth. In the end, it all worked out!
Square it up that angle with a wedge so that you can wrap the base boards around normally. The wall with the angle will have a really deep reveal but IMO that would look best. Then buy a ladder style book shelf similar to this and put it on that wall and nobody will see it anyway.
There are two reasons why you should not use this for a heavy load:
A: Being attached only on one side concentrates all the load there. Bet it'll start twisting down after awhile.
B: Those two little tabs or ears, the ones with the tiny holes. Not going to get much bite on the screw threads, and it will not be a very big screw, either.
Now look at this setup:
https://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-Lighting-0110000-Saf-T-Brace-Ceiling/dp/B00027EWNW
Secures well, and it uses 10-32 machine threaded bolts to hold the chandelier on. Will hold a 150 pound lamp, if you have 16" on center construction.
You mean some thing like this for the second crack?
Any issues with filling in the first hole with backfill, or should I also use the Sika you reckon?
You could use some folding brackets if you don't want the table up there full time.
https://www.amazon.com/LuckIn-Folding-Brackets-Stainless-Collapsible/dp/B088QBGGM7/
A test kit is $35. That includes the lab fee, and they DO test vermiculite. The exception is in New York State, where all vermiculite insulation is automatically treated as ACM - rendering testing redundant.
I had to replace one of these recently. It's a 165 Degree Kitchen Cabinet Hinge. If you don't mind amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01K741OI0/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o04\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Seconded. You can cut out a sample and mail it to a testing company to confirm (which I would recommend). Commenters are probably seeing the fibrous hair-like structures in the matrix but asbestos isn’t the only fibrous material floating around in home building materials. It looks like it’s maybe a skim coat on top of an old plaster/lath wall. In that case the hair-like things could just be animal hair for increased strength. It could also still be asbestos though. Send a sample out to be tested.
Asbestos Test Kit 1 PK (1 Bus.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CS50O92?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I had builder grade tile and used these mother of pearl tile and tiled right over it. Cheap, fairly easy and turned out great. Before & After
Get one of these, wet the sponge and go in circular motions over the dryer patches. Will help 'liven' the mud again.
I haven’t used a sander, but this tool works really well. POP EEZE Popeeze Popcorn Ceiling Scraper Vacuum Attachment Tool - Shop Vacuum Attachment for Removal and Repair of Acoustic Texture Ceiling - Remover of Ceiling Texture Without Bag or Mess https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B077Y8TWVB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QGNPHCPHGSS6JPET5PS4
There's supposed to be a channeled track running the top length of the door frame. Inside of the channeled track would be a secured 'clip' that would receive that 'pin' at the top left of the door. The bottom bracket (3rd picture) is supposed to be screwed into the floor and inner left frame lining up with the top clip. This makes up the 'hinge' portion of a bifold door.
There should also be a hole at the top right of the door where a pin with a wheel attached to it would be inserted. This will act as a rolling guide inside of the channel and to keep the door on track.
Here's a look at the parts you need along with a proper track......https://www.amazon.com/Bi-Fold-Hardware-Repair-Brackets-Components/dp/B07DHB27B4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3CR09VYRYNA9P&keywords=PRIME-LINE+N+7534+Bi-Fold+Door+Hardware+Repair+Kit&qid=1652652270&sprefix=prime-line+n+7534+bi-fold+door+hardwa...
Exactly! The company we got our Epoxy from has SO many great videos, I would definitely recommend watching a few to get some inspiration in terms of design, colors, and techniques! If I could do it again I would have removed the backsplash with a multitool or something and epoxied it separately. Epoxy, like any liquid, wants to run on vertical surfaces. So any design you make ends up drooping down and looking kind of messy. It would have been better to remove the little backsplash and epoxy it horizontally then replace it once dry. Epoxy is also self leveling, but it can't self level on vertical surfaces so it becomes very thin, another reason to remove it if possible. I would recommend using a heat gun over a torch because torches are scary lol, they have the at Harbor Freight for super cheap! Definitely use a drill attachment mixer like this. If the epoxy is not mixed well it will not harden properly. Walmart has them for pretty cheap in the paint/caulking section :)
The best part about epoxy is you can buff it as needed (that's why it was perfect for our rental unit, we plan to buff between tenants so they always have a like-new countertops for move ins).
This is the hardware I used for the cable railing. That should answer your question.
Do the primer and paint after odor removal specialists come in. The less stinky it is, the easier it is to cover up.
Should I spray anti-icky-poo on the walls and ceilings as well? Clean them thoroughly with TSP. Then use your chosen primer.
Can anti-icky-poo be sprayed on stained wood cabinets? Ask them: (866) 247-5221
Does anti-icky-poo work on cigarette smell? Not well. Enzymes do not eat nicotine, as it is a poison. Use the TSP and hot water to get as much of it off the walls and ceilings.
In the end, look at using a ozone generator as the final treatment:
https://www.amazon.com/Generator-Capacity-Industrial-Commercial-Deodorizer/dp/B098CR1BZV
There are things like this that can ease the steepness. Also if you want to redo the stairs there are alternating tread stairs that are more permanent.
Definitely install a narrow hand rail.
I'm partial to a gooseneck, could put one above each door for security lighting. LITFAD Industrial Gooseneck 9" Vintage Antique Copper Single Light Wall Sconce with Barn Style Shade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073P8PSG6/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_53K481TG8FC964GP9WRJ
Hamilton Hills Contemporary Brushed Metal Wall Mirror | Glass Panel Silver Framed Rounded Corner Deep Set Design | Mirrored Rectangle Hangs Horizontal or Vertical (22" x 30") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076ZS5ZZH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4RNTNSKQH6CKKHS7PPZ5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Great idea with the wood parts black and handles, I would also add replacing the sink with a deeper one as well as new faucet. I got mines on Amazon and I really like it. 28 Inch Drop In Kitchen Sink Workstation - VASOYO 28x22 Drop In Stainless Steel Kitchen Sink Topmount Ledge Workstation 16 Gauge Single Bowl Kitchen Sink with Cutting Board https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087BH4D4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Z5677PYWMWMEWRP4Y37G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I recommend these or any similar gap filler
Have similar drawers in our kitchen. Not sure when they were built. Sometime between 1830 & 1912. Anyway this is a quick and effective way to make the drawers slide easily. JVCC UHMW-PE-5 UHMW Polyethylene... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078RXMTBV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Since you have to mess with the bottom of the drawer anyway, I would look for bottom-mount tracks with soft-close. Failing that, you can go more old-school (no soft-close though).
Like this.... The hole is too small for other animals.
The idea is you poison them, and you continue to monitor the bait. Replacing it every few days to see if they're still biting. Essentially when they stop eating it you can assume they're all dead.
You can get a nice clean look with some caulk strip/sealer trim. I don't find it works well in areas where it will get wet (e.g. tub) but seems like it would work well in the spot. I would normally recommend just straight caulking but this may provide more clean looking coverage.
Wish you’d included a wider view as well. The link I’m supplying is for an “outside corner moulding” piece. You have an inside corner, but the ouside corner shape will work here as a base for a shelf. My only concern for anything you put up there is how close that light fixture is (heat).
This link is to a piece that’s inexpensive, and the shape might fit your use. It’s solid poly, so if it’s big enough at the top you should be able to cut a rectangle out for your problem to hide in. Then just attach a plain rounded wood shelf over to box it all in (nail and glue the corner and shelf together then paint it all before hanging).
But it seems you may need two styles of support because of the placement of your door. There is a support style that looks like a long thin bar that connects to the wall. It also reduces wobble. EMKE Aluminum Alloy Shower Glass Support Bar Angle Adjustable Wall-to-Glass Support Bar Frameless Shower Door Fixed Panel for 1/4" to 5/16" Thick Glass(19.7") https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B091329WJ3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_BGRJ9CKSBFANW4KB81BC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You have a couple options to cut through the tiles. You can use a Dremel with a masonry bit (diamond coated), or an angle grinder with a tile blade, or lastly an oscillating tool with a diamond coated bit.
After you have the tiles cut away so that you can access the outlet screws I would use these receptacle spacers to get the outlets to be flush with the tiles. You can double them up or break some off to get the right amount you need. You should be able to get them at your local home store.
Get a box of 1-1/2” to 2” deck screws, preferably with a square or torx head (Phillips heads strip out too easily, especially at awkward angles on a ladder overhead.) Use a drill with a driver bit and drive through the fascia board (what you called “panel”) at a slight downward angle into the dark painted wood. Put a couple screws on each end. The screws should pull the fascia toward the house and mostly close that gap.
Use Durham’s water putty to fill the screw holes and fill the uneven damaged wood in the fascia board. Follow the instructions on the can and apply with a small extra flexible putty knife so the putty is flush with the surface of the fascia board.
Caulk the gap with high quality PAINTABLE exterior grade white caulk. Cheap caulk will get hard and crack faster than the good stuff. Cut the tube at an angle. Start with a tiny tiny cut. You can always make the hole bigger. Put the long tip of the caulk tube into the corner and dispense caulk, using the tip to smooth the caulk down. Immediately dip your finger in water and run you finger over the entire length of the bead to smooth it down. Dip, smooth, dip, smooth until finished.
Buy this caulk gun. The affordable caulk guns at box stores are terrible and this kind will keep you from smearing caulk everywhere and having caulk running down your elbow. (Ask me how I know…lol) I have this same model plus several crappy versions from box stores. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002CKG1O
Sand the water putty of needed. It’s hard to sand so hopefully you don’t have to sand much.
Then prime and paint.
Measure and see if this is big enough to cover the cut tile edges.
Power Gear, White, Single Rocker Toggle Switch Oversized Wall Plate Cover, 1 Gang, Unbreakable Faceplate, 3.1” x 4.9”, Screws Included, 44745, 1 Pack https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07VSHXXMG
They are 6” lights rated at 12watts. But rated at 1050 lumens. They are BRIGHT but with a dimmer switch they work perfect. I have mine set to a little over half power.
I used these ones I think
Amico 6 Pack 6 Inch 5CCT Ultra-Thin LED Recessed Ceiling Light with Junction Box, 2700K/3000K/3500K/4000K/5000K Selectable, 12W Eqv 110W, Dimmable Can-Killer Downlight, 1050LM High Brightness - ETL https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087JDFH4K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3RDRZRWNSTZ41QFQBQA5
I frankly only use microfiber cleaning cloths, and it works great - I'll use a countertop cleaning stuff once in a blue moon, but for day-to-day, just a very damp microfiber cloth does great. You can find cheaper, but we use these: https://www.amazon.com/SIGA-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloth-Pack/dp/B06VVK91X4/ref=sr\_1\_3\_sspa?\_encoding=UTF8&c=ts&keywords=Reuseable+Cleaning+Cloths&qid=1639177004&s=hpc&sr=1-3-spons&ts\_id=15524361011&psc=1&spLa=ZW5...
It looks like depth is as much of a problem as width. I’m mentioning it because an accordion door (or two) would fit the width, but they need depth clearance. This looks like it might work if you install it at the front edge of the opening. You’ll also need to measure for height due to the carpet. . https://www.amazon.com/LTL-Home-Products-HSMETRO3280WHSQ-Plexiglas/dp/B00C21W4CC/ref=sr\_1\_4?crid=3ES08G66S3XRP&keywords=accordion%2Bfolding%2Bdoors%2Bfor%2Bcloset&qid=1637838500&s=hi&sprefix=accordion%2Bfolding%2Bdoor%2Ctools%2C5...
>Amazon Basics Contemporary Electronic Keypad Deadbolt Doot Lock, Keyed Entry, Oil Rubbed Bronze
>
>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J4VHVN5/
but see I want to ADD an additional lock
​
instead of modifying current
>Kwikset kevo
thank you
>Amazon Basics Contemporary Electronic Keypad Deadbolt Doot Lock, Keyed Entry, Oil Rubbed Bronze
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J4VHVN5/
​
looks good
Im trying to replace the ballcock on this Kohler toilet and noticed there is no refill tube. I know water definitely flows into the toilet bowl refilling it(as well as the tank of course) but how??
Can you replace this ballcock with something like this?
Thanks in advance for any help.
/u/Dombarp recommended this tool:
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCS354B-Brushless-Oscillating-Multi-Tool/dp/B07TYGKHHS
but his link was removed because of the Reddit prohibition against promoting Amazon Affiliate stores. So I've resubmitted it for him.
Also a tool called a cats claw might help. Here is a link https://www.amazon.ca/Estwing-PC210G-Nail-Puller-9-Inch/dp/B00DT0OYRI/ref=asc_df_B00DT0OYRI/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292954691968&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1980994769006726423&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&am...
Place a bit of cardboard next to the tack strip, carefully hammer the curved end under the strip and pry it up. It may damage the wood under the strip but you have a hole to repair there anyhow.
Aight, I think this is it tub drain remover
Thing shouldn't be shorting out if you are using proper terminal/junction blocks. Have you tried Wago connectors: https://www.amazon.com/Wago-221-412-221-413-221-415-Assortment/dp/B018MGMFDI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=wago&qid=1636649433&sr=8-3
Also shorter wires where possible.
This sub is for people to ask advice on or share their own home renovation projects.
Thank you for considering us, but gas stoves are not something we do here. Maybe /r/Appliances can assist you.
Have you looked at this webpage?:
https://pricespy.co.uk/home-garden/white-goods/cookers-ovens/cookers--c537
Use an old work box. Has little wings that lay down flush with the side while being inserted through the drywall. Then you tighten the three screws to pop the wings out and grip the backside of the drywall while the lip hold the front. Made exactly for this situation. Carlon B618R-UPC 4-1/4" Round Box, Old Work, Cubic Inches: 18", Non-Metallic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DMSL9HV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_V7S2QFG9RJ1746BBEFM5
They purchased an expensive range hood from Amazon but they aren't too sure if it's enough for the humidity. Crown 30" Range Hood. Is it better to vent to the side or upwards when it comes to this? Their house has it venting out of the side of the wall.
Paint the counter tops with a kitchen counter paint set, you can buy from Amazon for less then a couple hundred and it looks like marble or granite. Render over the bricks and paint a light or dark colour like grey or charcoal. Paint the cabinets white and replace the old handles with modern black ones. Not sure if the walls are tiled but if not paint white, this will help open up the room. Add a nice stick on tiled backsplash around the whole kitchen.
Giani White Diamond Countertop Paint Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMU9QMK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_HRDGGEVVVM7FP8TYH8C2
It all depends on where you live...the cheapest/least effective way is to get an out home test/mail away kit like this https://www.amazon.com/Asbestos-Test-Includes-Postage-Fees/dp/B008J3ZK8M/
But the requires you to handle to potential asbestos material. Still its preferred to doing nothing.
Are you only installing 3 sprinkler heads? You will probally be fine running directly off the hose bib and using a simple timer like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Orbit-58910-2-Outlet-Programmable-Faucet/dp/B008VDULGG/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=orbit+hose+timer&qid=1629354362&sr=8-5 Its not something I would bother installing a valve box, timer, main line and all the expenses/time that come with a proper system, this way you can just use the battery operated timer and run a pipe from the existing hose bib to your heads As far as the wires/gas line goes, it depends where you are located, in Canada our gas lines are 36" deep and our pool lights are run in conduit/pipe so I don't think you'd get through them with a shovel, things you will hit easily here are phone/cable/fiber wires. The telecom companies sometimes have them 2" deep and they are easy to cut though, if free locate are available where you are I would recommend getting one. Our trenches are 10-12" deep which gives you room to adjust the angle/height, and buy a 4" trenching shovel if you're running more than 50', makes cleaning out the trench so much easier. We typically use a vibratory plow or trencher on a mini skid steer, but quite often have to dog a job by hand when machine access isn't an option
Why don't you remove the stall and add a door lock on the main door with an emergency unlock mechanism and a vacancy indicator? Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TBTZYSW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_VNM3MQ9P3HCMMG29CJEM You can also add a door vent grille on the main door: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZCX3Z8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_JF1WSN7MEC56DPNMR7ZT
Since the wood looks really old, I'm sure the tech or knowledge wasn't available or applied a long time ago. Most trim shouldn't absorb moisture easily since it's treated wood.
When you go to install any trim, caulk along the top and bottom of the trim. It will hide any gaps formed and create a cleaner look. Buy a special small tool (should be near the caulking material at the hardware store) for evening out the caulking after you applied it. Something like this.
We have a delta faucet and soap dispenser (trinsic or something like that) and we wanted to install an air switch for the garbage disposal and got this one from Amazon. It's not 100%, but VERY close.
https://amazon.com/dp/B07QMLHCL7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_SMF8WKPC382ABMFR67M9
We had good luck with these:
Amazon Basics Rounded Square... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PCZ1HJH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And
Amazon Basics Euro Bar Cabinet... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PBWH9KJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
VAT (vinyl asbestos tiles) are typically lower asbestos content compared to SVF (sheet vinyl flooring). What's most interesting is that typically SVF has a backing that contains, while tiles can also it's rare. VAT require a lot of pulverization and must be in poor condition to increase exposure risk.
I have had multiple asbestos exposures and don't want you to panic. It takes 15-40 years to develop respiratory disease from asbestos. I'm at 20 years since my first exposure. What I've done to calm my fear is document everything in relation to the exposures and also notify a doctor to order respiratory surveillance through x-rays and lung function testing on regular intervals.
If you want to learn more about asbestos and read my exposure stories, please read my ebook. It's free for Kindle Unlimited members or a low cost educational guide for non-members.
https://www.amazon.com/Asbestos-Exposed-definitive-identification-including/dp/B08H566HPS
In closing what filter did you use? N95, OV (organic vapor only), P100 or combination?
get some 36" mesh , any brand , link is just to show you what it is. its just a wide roll like the 2" mesh tape for joints
cover the entire wall and skim coat.
This comment is to assist other redditors who are not aware of r/Flooring
Have you had these tiles tested for asbestos? Assuming they contain based on the size, pattern, etc.?
It's not a bad call to assume they contain as it can save money on sampling and analysis. One way to lower your risk of exposure is to get some spray glue or spray paint. Covering the broken tiles with the spray will help to lock down any fibres and broken pieces. Generally speaking tile is low friability unless pulverized and or in poor, aging condition so going over it with levelling compound or similar will also provide some protection with fairly low exposure risk.
If you are looking to learn about more asbestos from identification to removal, please have a read through my ebook. There are a number or guides for homeowners looking to remove small amounts of asbestos containing material. It's free for amazon prime members.
https://www.amazon.com/Asbestos-Exposed-definitive-identification-including-ebook/dp/B08H2KS528
We didn't paint black that little design. We went with the paint roll through it and, as it's in a different height, the paint didn't go in so it kept the original color haha
And here you have the link, keep in mind that I'm from Spain tho and maybe it will be not available in the US: https://www.amazon.es/dp/B08NWN6HD4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EGW4QV0CZQBZYK3T9BW6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
i completly spazzes reading your post where you said it was a sliding door. i thought that was the bottom hinge on a shower door and it opened into the tub.... you wont get a 100% seal , you will need to measure the gap from the base to the bottom of glass to get the right size , again clean like i said and atatch ( link below is clear vinyl ) this this to the base. local hardware store , ace , hd , lowes etc. will have it in white in a the hardware section with the foam strips and plastic people put on wiondows to stop drafts
you mean when the shower is on , the water is spraying out the door seam because it should be overlapped with teh door on the outside i am guessing?
the pic is from the outside of your shower and the water comes from the right side of the picture ?
if so this is what you need. clean the glass with mineral spirits and the rubbing alcohol to get a good bond , after applying the strip i qould run a hair dryer over it and press more , get teh adhesive good and tacky for a good bond
Rubber is better, and you are right to try and get it airtight, sound obviously travels through any air gap. The second way sound travels is by vibration, the sound above the door makes the door vibrate and that in turn "creates" the sound below the door, to mitigate that you want a heavy material that needs a lot of sound to start vibrating or you can use the acoustic foam panels (e.g. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07MCGRV7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_J7yeGbJJJJ5C7 ) but the transmission by vibration is far less than that through air gaps. So I would not use the panels until you got it all airtight, then see if you still need them...
We were also thinking of making some unique shelving unit out of pipes and live edge wood, kinda inspired by this one
It would prevent people from walking through that area, provide useful storage and make the pipe look like less of an eyesore
This does filter dust but is designed more for vapors (paint fumes). The mask is great and you can replace the cartridges with particulate filters (for dust/debris) like these: https://www.amazon.com/3M-2097-Particulate-Filter-Organic/dp/B00328IAO0
Yep I’m with this guy, a high heat silicone based product would work great.
Part of the problem with heat and metal is the expansion. If the plate gets a few hundred degrees that is enough expansion to cause mortars to fail from movement. You need a product that can flex and move with the metal while allowing the tile to remain static. This is a common problem tiling over concrete as well, an uncoupling membrane product is used to accomplish this but it wouldn’t be good for heat or vertical surface.
Here is a product made for just your purpose.
https://www.amazon.com/Rutland-Products-76C-500-Degree-10-3-Ounce/dp/B000DZBLNC
Not rattle cans. The two part kits. Froth Pak is one such supplier:
https://www.amazon.com/Froth-PAK-Sealant-Insulation-Closed-Covers/dp/B06XRSTTC6
You can use the Great Stuff in the can to go around the edges. If you are really concerned about vapor and air leaks, you can tuck tape the edges:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/TYVEK-HomeWrap-2-in-x-164-ft-Installation-Tape-D13841470/100422453
I tried a sanding sponge with a super coarse grit too. It’s like nothing touched it at all. It’s a hand held sander, like this - BLACK+DECKER Mouse Detail Sander, Compact Detail (BDEMS600) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJWLNMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qXoHFbXG0EH66
I would just use the retrofit kit. They work great and take no effort to install.
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you can also use a hose filled with water with an adaptor like this: https://www.amazon.com/Mayes-Level-10309-Water/dp/B00004YZP8/ref=asc_df_B00004YZP8
Basically, fill the hose with water, have 2 people, one on each end, and you can see the level through the clear bits. The water will stay nice and level thanks to gravity.
Have you ever seen or heard of an ozone generator?:
https://www.amazon.com/Airthereal-MA5000-Commercial-Generator-Deodorizer/dp/B0795P2674
It can break down the odor causing chemicals into their base compounds. They are often used to reduce and eliminate pet odors, smoking odors, and smells from sewage leaks. It may also work for you.
You'd set it up, open all the cabinet doors, and leave the house, taking any pets with you. You do not want to be inhaling ozone. After the treatment, you can return with an hour or two.
Seriously, a life saver. I hadn’t even heard of the options you suggested.
I looked into plywood and green glue, and sound clips, but I’m really leaning toward the cork underlay. I can order it on Amazon, here, so I wouldn’t need to borrow a truck like I would have to do with plywood. It also seems to be the easiest to install.
Thanks again!
Hear me out, I have a hybrid between " hands and knees" and "commercial brush." Have you seen those brushes that connect to a drill? They're life savers. I DIYed one before I found a bigger version on Amazon, but you would get a good idea of how a big brush will turn out.... and still be able to get into some close quarters.
Not what I have but similar: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T8FDKD3/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_S.yjEbRD4PKCE
I purchased this (twice) and it worked great! Just got my sample, filled out the form, made an account, filled out my account. Sent it in to the company and in 7 days I had my results. Very professional product.
My sample consisted of: A segment of popcorn ceiling from 5 different rooms.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008J3ZK8M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share