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/r/SoundBlasterOfficial's
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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/SoundBlasterOfficial:
![J-Tech Digital 4K 60HZ HDMI Audio Extractor Converter SPDIF + 3.5MM Output Supports HDMI 2.0, 18Gpbs Bandwidth, HDCP 2.2, Dolby Digital/DTS Passthrough CEC, HDR10 [JTD18G-H5CH]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41XE1sKdSlL._SL500_.jpg)
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/SoundBlasterOfficial:
Winaero Tweaker
Gofile.io
Snappy Driver Installer Origin
Vox Music Player
CPU-Z
ASIO4ALL
AnonFiles.com
PCGamingWiki
DeepL Translator
EarTrumpet
The most popular reviews in /r/SoundBlasterOfficial:
Easy part just reverse engineer their software.
http://sbconnect.creative.com/windows/v2.0/testing/CMD/driver/G6/KSUSBAudioDriverInstaller.exe
Reverse unpacked installer
https://anonfiles.com/l2bby0Jao5/KSUSBAudioDriverInstaller_7z
1.16.4.11
https://www.amazon.sg/dp/B07J2BJPDN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_fAzTNuDzc3MO1
Check out this item. But of course mine is based as Amazon SG. So your country might have a different url.
But this is not the right angled version. I bought the right angled version from a regional ecommerce site. Cheaper too.
Strange. I'm using this usb-c extender which works https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07ZNW7W42/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also had problems with the included adapter so I stopped using that and got the cable I linked above.
Yeah, this switch works but make sure you also are using proper hdmi cables that are rated for 18.5 Gbps for best results.
There are some 3.5mm jack to Bluetooth to 3.5mm tx/rx dongles, I've seen before. Quick search on Amazon i found this one here, which I'm not sure how it works, maybe even can connect to your headphone directly? Although I'm unsure how you'd do the pairing, if that's so 🤔
Generally the soundcard would require you to go analog first, then go bluetooth, and then possible you'd still need to plug the headphones to that by jack, which at that point... A longer cable can be easier 🥲
i have got this one here:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0B13X9XXC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
i use it for my car but after playing around with it a bit, you can use it to both send or receive audio. like, use your laptops bluetooth to transmit to that thing and plug it into some wired headphones instead (tried that on my mmx 300).
Yes I have this: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B084XRSRTK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sony HT-S20R
And on my old mobo with different drivers it outputted 5.1 without issue and showed 5.1 DD in the Windows sound settings.
I got this. Haven't gotten the Katana V2 yet (it's in shipping). From the looks of it, the ends will hang off some, but I didn't expect it to be completely perfect.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BHQWMSGN?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
A and B are both sounding related to what /u/wstephenson mentioned, so I'd see if other headphones or 3.5mm cabled things experience the same issues. Do your headphones have a microphone, and are they quad-poled, or triple? You can see based on the number of rings on the connector.
If it's quad-poled, you may also see an improvement if you used a 4-pole splitter/adapter like this - split the headphones to your headphone port, and the microphone to the microphone input port. But if you never were using a quad-pole headset, never mind this.
Not sure what issue C is, but you could look at reinstalling your onboard drivers.
@ OP going by your photos, I do not even see any issue.
The Soundcard (it is not a DAC but has one) can use any PCI-Ex1 slot or higher.
I moved my SB ZxR down a slot or two to give my 3090 FE more air and used a riser to achieve this, but it had enough room before.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07TBLRZYJ/
If my slots were like your Mobo's I could have done so without a riser (my 4th x16 slot was at the bottom, it has 4 in total), the soundcard was connected to the PCI-Ex4 slot just above the bottom slot.
As other have stated you will drop the GPU to 8x if you plug any device in to the x16 slots.
So get one of those pxie x1 - x16 riser things I've seen and use one of the x1 slots to mount it? Is that what you are saying (just to confirm)? Something like this essentially?
Few weeks ago someone posted this one ..https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Converter-Optical-Supports-Digital/dp/B0B73P5VX4
Did you try tweaking the SBX settings, like the surround and crystallizer settings? Maybe also try different equalizer profiles to get the sound more to your liking.
If you have the space in your pc case you can still use an old PCI card in a newer motherboard by buying a pci express to pci adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/Sintech-PCI-Express-Riser-Extender/dp/B00KZHDSLQ/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B00KZHDSLQ&psc=1
These are what I use with my GC7 Logitech Z623 THX 2.1
They sound pretty good, lots of power if you need it, I expect most 2.1 speakers would do.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07114YZFC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Plug your headphone plug from your pc37s directly into gc7. Plug the mic from pc37s into pink on y splitter and the black plug from splitter into controller. Xbox headphone settings have to be set to speakers to hear chat
Yh sure the original purpose of these is for monitors but u can use it to place ur speaker on top and get the cables from ur peripherals to pass under. Personally it looks very clean to me.
You need toshlink to 3.5mm like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Toslink-SOUNDFAM-Optical-Braided-etc-Grey/dp/B096F5MM7S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=optical+to+3.5mm&qid=1652442371&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFHUDhOMU1WREtZTkImZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA1NzI...
Your converter has to be capable passtroughing dolby digital
Read link above how to set eveything up in PS settings.
3.5mm toslink adapter (mini toslink) Digital Fiber Optic Toslink to 3.5mm Jack (Mini Toslink) Plug Adaptor Digital Optical for Audio (2Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074Z416CG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_XCAQGMJ0QW2EHRY1A46T
Usually used in laptops with SPDIF output. Verify before using.
You need to mix the output of the sound card (Yotube tutorials) and the output of the guitar amplifier.
Some of the guitar amps have that mixing capability built-in already:
https://www.amazon.com/Fender-Frontman-Electric-Guitar-Amplifier/dp/B001L8PIFW
Thanks for the input. After installing and setting up below two apps on my Android Box made this soundbar (connected via ARC HDMI) sound exceptionally good (at least to my liking).
Wavelet - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pittvandewitt.wavelet
Bass Booster - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ru.g000sha256.bass_booster
What do you most want to improve? Ergonomics of switching between headphones and speakers? Sound quality? What do you want to optimise for: gaming, listening to music, watching movies?
Does your case not have a front headset jack at all? Unless your primary need is a hardware output switch, you could continue to use the onboard sound and just unplug the headphones from the front jack to switch to speakers.
Your USB/wireless headphones have their own sound card, so when using them wireless, you will still have to switch outputs using the Windows toolbar applet. This complexity undermines the point of having an hardware output switch.
My recommendations depending on your goal:
Sound quality: firstly, better (non gamer) speakers and headphones using front jack, then a X3 or X4
Hardware switching, low cost: add an audio switch to your existing setup, eg MC1023/4
Hardware switching, high cost: X3 or X4, better wired headset, only use the wireless ones for couch
Software switching, low cost: software audio output toggle like as described here
Flexing, money no object: audiophile speakers, DAC/Amp stack
Hey Mappi75, I did manage to get the AE-9 DAC fixed without buying a replacement.
I had to pry the top shell, by prying its middle split slit line.
The problem was the cable, it's just a normal "Mini HDMI to HDMI Cable" I bought a replacement cable from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087295HX1/
and screwed out the part that holds the cable in place This is how the AE-9 looks from inside: https://i.gyazo.com/63ba561d81a4674c5812b61b042c456d.jpg
Upsides of doing what I did: only cost 14$, didn't have to send anything in mail
downsides of what I did: The DAC device did suffer some visual appearance on its sides, but I don't really care.
Good luck!
a
I'm going to keep the post above for those who did not know this:
Apparently listening to two or more analog signals connected to the same power source causes a buzzy noise. That explains why I could plug it into my undocked Switch just fine but not docked since it was connected to the same outlet as my PC. I was recommended this Ground Loop Isolator to remedy the issue: https://www.amazon.com/BESIGN-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B06XQYN77L/ref=sr\_1\_3?keywords=ground+loop+isolator+3.5mm&qid=1646715861&sprefix=ground+lo%2Caps%2C66&sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/Analog-Surround-Decoder-Repeater-Function/dp/B071KXR3G2
I think you are looking for something like this? Quality on these random brands are suspect though.
The thing that most people refer to as the AUX port IS a 3.5mm port. AUX and 3.5mm are the same thing.
The SteelSeries gaming DAC has a Line-Out port on it. That's the AUX/3.5mm jack for your headphones.
If you are saying that you don't have the cable to do it (3.5mm cable) then you just need to buy one
You can try out the solution about HOAL here:
https://pcgamingwiki.com/wiki/Glossary:Sound_card#Creative
But it may not work on XFI Gamer.
​
As a workaround, you can also try to use other DirectSound wrappers.
They won't emulate EAX 4/5 though, but usually up to EAX 2 or 3.
Download DSOAL or IndirectSound wrappers.
I'm having the same problem.
It is recognized as Recon3D and the LED on the board does not light up.
After using the reset switch on my PC a few times, the LED lights up and it boots normally. (I am required to do this every time.)
I can't replace the board since the warranty period has expired, but I would like to know if it could be a software bug.
I am not a Ryzen user and my motherboard is running on PCIe 3.0.
It seems like Ryzen or PCIe 4.0 is the solution as the cause, but it is not.
​
- CPU:Intel Core i9 9900k
- MB:MSI MEG Z390 ACE
- GPU:Zotac RTX 3080
- PSU:Corsair RM850X
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
AE-5 here Got this issue with interswaping chanells randomly when udated drivers to latest version. So no bios or windows version AFFECT this.
After updating to latest drivers had tried all stuff. Updated win 10 to 1909. Updated all drivers. Bios reset to default. trieed all setings in comand.
After reverting back to 3.4.38 had no issue.
Conclusion: its only command software bug.
https://gofile.io/d/8iBiHj Heres 3.4.38 setup package. Can someone with this issue check it ?
Audio balance is is a mix between 2 output playback deviced( X4 spdif & X4 speakers).
Windows is very handy with this because you can set playback device for any program. https://winaero.com/audio-output-device-apps-individually-windows-10/
> what I tried so far is setting Skype audio input to my “usb mic” and output to “x4 spdif out”. As mentioned in original post when I do this however I get no Skype audio.
Jup something is wrong , via link i provided above try outputing any other program like Chrome, Firefox to SPDIF and see if Audio Balance works. If yes than something has to be be Skpe.
Hi, I've upgraded to the beta firmware but I'm still experiencing an issue with the microphone.
I'm on PC. I've made a custom PUBG profile in my library and whenever I change it to another profile (e.g. the preset music one, the music one or any other) my microphone changes even if I haven't changed anything under the voice tab.
I uploaded two audio sample of my voice here: https://gofile.io/d/Tp45bQ. You can hear my voice normal, when I start my computer and I'm on the custom profile. And then after I switch to any other profile. You can clearly tell there's something wrong, it's like I'm using robotic voice morph even if I'm not!
I also tested switching from a preset profile (eg music) to another preset profile (eg movies) and the same issue happen. So I don't think it has anything to do with my custom profile.
Regardless of profile, when I start the pc voice is fine, as soon as I change profile in library (whichever it is), my voice becomes robotic.
What can I do? Already tried resetting the device to factory default
beyerdynamic DT 990 PRO 250 ohm - LIMITED EDITION (Black, Straight Cable) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010IJ9W1U/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_GCZVAXQ4BBC1N446CRN9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
These are my headphones. Sorry for the confusion.
If you really wanted to hook it up to your AE-9 you could maybe get a USB to 3.5mm male jack adapter, but I have no idea if it would work, and I'm 99.9% sure it wouldn't provide any benefit.
As others have said, just use the USB, or if you're dead set on using your AE-9, you might return the Blue Yeti and get something with a 3.5mm jack, but that's kind of a PITA, and again, I don't think you'd see too much benefit.
Not sure what is causing this for you, but when I have gone into windows sound settings and disabled sound output for your current sound device and re-enabled it, this would temporarily alleviate the issue.
this should provide enough information on how to do so:
https://winaero.com/blog/enable-disable-sound-output-device-windows-10/
I dont use free sync on my monitor as if I put it on I don't get 120hz 1440p what hdmi extractor did you go for This is my one its great HDMI 2.0 Audio Extractor 4K 60Hz... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07TZRXKYG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Use the headphone out. You will need a 3.5mm audio cable with male in both ends like this:
Amazon.com: Amazon Basics 3.5 mm Male to Male Stereo Audio Cable, 2 Feet, 0.6 Meters : Electronics - https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Stereo-Audio-Cable-Meters/dp/B00NO73IN2/
It's possible but you will only get mic input to one of the systems, not both. What you could try is a usb switch (maybe something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6GD9JO?maas=maas_adg_319865BB41CEE6182CECAD74C5671413_afap_abs)
Snappy driver installer origin. I've no idea why, but somehow they have the newest version of the driver and that is the only place I have managed to find it.
Try using snappy driver installer origin. Creative seem to be really bad at making the latest drivers for their products available on their website, as there was a new driver for the Katana released on September 20th of this year, but not even Windows Update will grab it, and the only place I've managed to find it is from snappy driver installer.
I can suggest creating your own from CD's.
Other legal sources: https://vox.rocks/blog/10-sites-for-buying-lossless-music-in-flac
It supports both! It uses 3.5mm connector instead of standard spdif connector.
Via optical it accepts only stereo/pcm. X4 doesn't have dts,dd decoder.
https://www.amazon.com/Toslink-3-5mm-Digital-Optical-SPDIF/dp/B077YKNVMQ
easy, XLR male to 3.5mm split cable.
I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072JJYDQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
but you could find cheaper.
If all you need is a optical output for your PC you can simply get a USB to optical output adapter. Just make sure it supports Dolby digital if you need it. I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017QP1WHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_JFBQPN610F731Z7HA62B But it needed to have it's firmware flashed to get Dolby digital
> did you connect you
Actually Magni does have line in, that what the RCA sockets are for.
Just a simple 3.5mm to RCA cable, Amazon basics https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8JW0/ref=sr_1_3?crid=29BSXJVSJWWO4&dchild=1&keywords=3.5mm+to+rca&qid=1632226436&sprefix=3.5mm+to+%2Caps%2C253&sr=8-3
Easy rec that, it's what I'm running. Just run the lineout of the G6 into the RCA, obviously DO NOT use the headphone out of the G6.
Ifi Zen Can $189 https://www.amazon.com/iFi-Balanced-Desktop-Headphone-Outputs/dp/B08L9PY36Z/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=ifi+zen+can&qid=1632149974&sr=8-1
Ofcourse there is no audio on stereo music in other words stereo has 2 channels( front left & front right )
Have you tried to warch a movie with 5 channels (+ center + rear left + rear right)
Have you tried SBX which can upmix 2 channels audio into more channels ... start exploring X7 features...
If you really want same music on both speakers (stereo x 2) than based on that that catana & a5 has aux-in you can do this with 2 cables
2 RCA Male and 3.5mm Stereo Femal https://www.amazon.com/30S1-01260-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-Connector/dp/B000I23TTE
Solitter: 3.5 mm Stereo Male to Two 3.5 mm Stereo Female https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Female-Splitter-Cable-Plated/dp/B004L8ZLS8
And 2x aux cables from splitter to katana and a5..
If you find right cable you could do this with one cable .
Thats it, now use litle imagination..
Depends on what headphones you are going to use and if you really want the chat mix. If your are Intending on get some high quality audiophile headphones then the G6 is hard to beat for that price with a mic input. If you are just using the A40s or planning on getting some decent audiophile headphones, the Syba Sonic would be more than fine, significantly cheaper too
https://www.amazon.com/Syba-Headphone-Amplifier-Digital-Coaxial/dp/B07XJ89KV6
The G6 would be your best bet. The X3 would be good if you want a full sound card in an external package, the best way to describe it IMO.
I replaced my cables with better quality ones. Since I have USB-C ports mostly, I bought the micro USB to USB -C cables, with an USB-C to USB-A adapter. I think the crackle and pops comes from poor cable quality. I never use OEM cables that came with my G6 or X3, so I never experienced the crackle and pops.
yeah multiple soundcards on the same system can cause issues. I'm not sure how important it is to have the connect software to use the Katana but you could try hooking it up through SPDIF with a USB to SPDIF converter. I personally have the G6 and also this USB to SPDIF converter so I can use SPDIF from my laptop with my AV receiver (I did have to reflash the converter firmware so it outputs DD/DTS surround).
Very late reply OP, but I managed to solve my problem by buying a different cheap USB soundcard instead, specifically this one. I'm able to speak a few inches away from it now without the volume getting too low. I did need to max out the gain though, and mic quality is just ok I guess.
I use this one ezcoo and it works great, it even passes through Dolby Vision and Atmos and also works with 1080@120hz on the ps5.
What you need is a HDMI Audio Extractor. So it should have 2 HDMI slots and an optical port as well. With that, you'll be able to make full use of the G6 and the new game and party chat mix function on the PS4.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFDQ6HG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_KDKVYQKQ7371ARHHJHWP
This is a good one if it fits into your budget but my advice to you from my experience is, get a good one rather than a cheap one and end up having to buy replacement units when they fail you. Hope this helps! ☺️
How it works is : You'll need one HDMI cable from your monitor/tv to the HDMI OUT port, one HDMI cable from the ps4 to the HDMI IN port and the optical cable in the SPDIF port to the G6.
Did you ever get this to work?
​
and I was also having complications. I found that turning "ON" and increasing the mic monitoring volume fixes the mic not working on PS5. BUT increasing too high will have a echo effect of hearing yourself in the headset.
Vmoda boom pro is what you want. I don't think a USB mic to the console would give control function to the g6, but I'm not positive.
Hi, I encountered this issue too when I had the PS4 Slim. Because the ps4 slim doesn't have an optical port, you can access the game mixing function as it should work. To use the game mixing, you'll need to get a HDMI audio extractor which you connect the hdmi cable from your monitor/TV to one end of the box, and another hdmi cable from the box to your ps4. The optical cable will be plugged from the G3 to the audio extractor box.
Something like this would be good, though you can also search up HDMI audio extractor if you want other results :)
Just a heads up, X7 does work with PS5. More info here
I use an external USB connected to my PC so it works with the soundblaster. In your case, you may need a splitter for the modmic if it doesn't have one. Specifically one that has a 3.5 for Audio and separate jack for Mic.
Have had the Soundblaster X7 for 5 years now and is my daily driver for PC and have used with PS4 & Xbox One previously. With PS5 omiting the optical audio I was somewhat perplexed on how to get audio.
Solution is the Creative BT-W2
Buy a riser like these as I did to move my ZxR down away from airflow on 3090FE.
Recently had issues with audio quality on my X7, after much headache I've tracked it down to an issue with using the motherboards USB ports, the fix was to simply buy a PCIe usb card and plug into that instead of the motherboard. This might also solve your problems, the card I used is https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00APTXU0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_ZN3QD94JHGTBT1SZDR5D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
What that user is doing is just taking their 4-pole [unbalanced] headset and using that adapter to split it into two three-pole connections (for mic and for stereo). Nothing too special there, anything of real interest for us is in how XLR is being converted to and from TRS.
No need to worry about coupling XLR, I just meant that if you take a source over unbalanced XLR then couple it with a balanced XLR, you end up with unbalanced XLR. The first cable already did the wire bridging.
That's all I can really clarify at this moment - the rest is indeed still kinda up in the air and/or an unconfirmed mystery (or solution) for me.
I ordered these, for what it's worth: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00ZIY06CA
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000Y021NA
And I hope I picked correctly. : / The LTT thread never really got into the nuances/differences between unbalanced XLR and balanced XLR, and which you use, and when.
Oh hold on, I just found this which specifies that it has a built in phantom power to plug- in play converter
> With the Movo F-XLR-PRO adapter, you can now convert a 3.5mm minijack to a 3 pin XLR, while also converting a 12-48V Phantom Power Signal to 3-5V Plug-in Power.
Let me know if that works for you! I notice that it does specify unbalanced in the description..
This is the currently unworking cable I got, I notice that it does specify balanced all over it.. oops!
If what you got works, I may have to pick up the same for myself..
I got the matching female cable which is working perfectly.
Like this? avedio links 4K HDMI Audio Extractor, HDMI to HDMI + Optical Toslink SPDIF + 3.5mm AUX Stereo Audio Out, HDMI Audio Converter Adapter Splitter Support 4K@60Hz HDCP1.4 Full HD 1080P 3D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H94D77V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_c0z0Fb2A9M4BW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
i think i know that work around but you then lose freesync/vrr
Let me know how you get on with your one though as i may get that one if it works well and i get the run around with this other one.
The link for the one I ordered is https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07T6CDPQJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_zVPXFbWNAQJ7G
Although the displayed spec makes no mention of 1080p at 120hz, if you go to manufacturers website and look at spec it clearly states 1080p at 120hz.
Should also mention, i bought a different extractor to one i put link up for, i cancelled the order on this one as it only does 1080p.
I picked a different one that supports 4k at 60fps but also crucially 1080p at 120fps as well.
This way should i get a better monitor or tv down the road I have more options.
New extractor...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07T6CDPQJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_JAkXFbZQ9XVZF
I bought from the companies website and worked out cheaper at £54
I have done some research and found a hdmi extractor that supports 120fps at 1080p as well as being HDMI 2.0 so can also do 4k at 60fps.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T6CDPQJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_t1_X7zWFbWPN7G7J
I am still waiting for my xbsx to arrive in a few weeks ao yet to test myself.
My concern now is if like me you use a mic you not only need to be able to receive the audio via the extractor but you neex to be able to input your mic comms back into xbox.
I read that xbox hdmi is output only and HDMI inputs do not support sound blasters so I need work around.
I believe one solution may be to plug mic onto xbox controller and use that to feed mic into xbox while still getting game audio through extractor.
Any help here would be appreciated, ill will test for myself soon enough i guess.
If you want one cable from headphones, just use a TRRS (female) to 2 TRS splitter (Male)
Such as
I ended up getting a HDMI audio extractor. HDMI goes in, HDMI and optical audio goes out seperate. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074HHSJVN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1) usb front i think technically supports it but I had issues with it so I ended up just sticking with the back port.
2) yea theres a bit of noise if you use the mic in port, which TBH doesnt sound that bad when you have sound coming in, but as you say, no 3d audio benefits this way(not that its amazing right now anywho).
- a dac into another dac could work but who knows lol. I just discovered this product by astro, but it seems to not support hdmi 2.1 so i dont know how good that will be for a handful of people
https://www.amazon.com/ASTRO-Gaming-HDMI-Adapter-Playstation-5/dp/B08F2HKLB3?ref_=ast_sto_dp
but it splits the hdmi signal with a SPDIF out. Theres a bunch of these devices out there, but none that support HDMI 2.1 as of right now that I can see.
5.1 soundcards have 3 outputs (rear,front,center+bass) .. now jor job is to connect these 3 outputs on soundcard with inputs on speakers with right cables... your spekers have 6 inputs so you need cables depends on outputs your sound card have.... if you have 3.5mm aux outputs on souncard you need 3 cables which look like that https://www.amazon.com/AUX2RCA-Mini-jack-Headphone-Aux-2-RCA-Adapter/dp/B078WWTPW5
Now you did first thing called "connecting"
next thing is to learn what is stereo/ 5.1 surround / movies with 5.1 sound or stereo ... how to upmix stereo to surround via windows etc..
I run my DT-990 Pro 250ohm on direct mode at 192khz/32-bit. I don't like any of the effects compared with what my old X-Fi Platinum could do.
For EQ/color I'm running through a Little Bear P10 w/ an Electro-Harmonix balanced triode 12AU7 tube.
The amp really does the DT-990's a favor, as they're lacking a little bit of mid-bass (250-800hz) and they're a little bit fatiguing in the mid-highs (6khz-8khz). A tube amp really warms up the lows and tames the highs a bit, and the "sparkle" you get from a tube amp does wonders for reigning in the highs.
I have an ae-9 and have a subwoofer. You should be able to get it working providing that you have the right cable for the sub. I had to run an RCA mono to stereo cable to get it working. I think the inputs are looking specifically for stereo (the aux end of the mono cable is different). Then set it at 2.1 and make sure to use bass redirection for stereo sources.
Every additional connection degrades the signal. Whether this makes a noticeable difference is down to you and your ears. ;-)
fyi, I replaced the short USB to Micro USB cable provided with a longer cable.
Like this.....
I used to have mic issues , a BESIGN Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XQYN77L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BfcwFbAFBW25A might help
Well, even though your issue turned out to be slightly different, I can help you with that, too. I looked up your Samson Q2U, and it has a headphone monitor output, just like my AT.
What you need is an attenuator (links below). Basically, line-level (or headphones out) is in the VOLTS range, but the mic input is looking for a signal in the MILLIVOLTS range. You just need to reduce the signal, so that you aren't overdriving the input.
This is similar to the one I bought: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DBX68O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WMJtFb1QF4RDR
This one could also maintain your headphone monitor output: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VIOZSK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wQJtFb3V6YWTS
Then you just need a 3.5 mm extension cable to fit your needs, and you should be all set.
Good luck!
It's a very cheap one, but being optical you don't need quality, it either works or don't: https://www.amazon.com/TNP-Toslink-Digital-Optical-Control/dp/B01HO0TITC
I got the same one on ebay for $7 but I can't find it anymore.
This one does the job if you don't want to spend much: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Optical-Fiber-Manual-Switching-PC-Led-Audio-Adapter-Tool-3-Way-Selector-Digital-/254646177479
Are you getting audio out from the mac or in to the mac?
Hi guys!
Thanks for all Your feedback! So I just tried it again, but unfortunately failed. I guess it's indeed the riser card, which makes things impossible. Here is what I tried:
Installed the card (card is detected correctly by windows despite the riser) - rebooted into safe mode to avoid drivers from loading (would cause windows crash). Going to device manager, I uninstalled the current drivers which list the device as some form of audigy. Then, reboot into normal mode again. When I want to install the newest audigy rx win 10 drivers (as was described by right click on inf file - install) I am getting an error: "the data is illegal". Doing a little bit of research I force started several windows services: "device install service / device setup manager / device association service / system events broker" (reference https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/windows-81-fails-to-install-device-drivers-data-is/81322c85-c552-4224-b737-d23d54f5bd1f)
This let me install the driver without error, but as soon as the driver is installed, my system crashes.
So for now I'm out of ideas, or as You said, it's probably the riser card that messes things up.
Welp, would have been nice to say hello to my old buddy in win 10 again, but seems like my only option for half decent microphone amplification is a crappy lil USB audio card with enough output voltage at the mic port... Since that's hard to come by, I found the uGreen one to work as good as the one from Syba, if anyone is interested. (reference for Germany: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IlwhFbACD0GCY)
Cheerio
If stereo is enough than you need this for g6 i think: https://www.amazon.com/Toslink-3-5mm-Digital-Optical-SPDIF/dp/B077YKNVMQ
+...
you thought...
connecting G6 and pc with toshlink ?
Yes and Yes. :-)
RCA cables usually come in stereo pairs. If I'm correct, you will need to get an RCA to 1/4th jack (mono) X 2 (one for each speaker.
Like this:
I went back to onboard audio because the SoundBlaster X3 crashes all the time on the latest software. Constant crashing. Nearly useless. Stay away from SoundBlaster and their crappy drivers and firmware.
As for your original question, SoundBlaster X3 doesn’t sound much better compared to onboard audio anyway. Maybe save your money and save up for a better gaming headset instead, which will be much more useful and better sounding without constant software issues.
If you do want something with mic input, maybe consider the Schiit Fulla 3.
Also if you want some better audio, Apple USB C to 3.5mm adapter measures good for $9. Full compatibility with Windows, including microphone input. Microphone input is clean. Output is clean. Very popular because of how good it is for the price.
https://www.apple.com/shop/product/MU7E2AM/A/usb-c-to-35-mm-headphone-jack-adapter
https://www.amazon.com/Apple-USB-C-Headphone-Jack-Adapter/dp/B07K25P3N1/
thank you... uhhh I am sorry but... can you recommend me a good hdmi splitter that works on amazon or some internet vendor?
I am looking at this one currently.
Thank you so much btw! :D
Can't think of the name of it, but it's the main control box to the surround sound system. Input, setting, volume adjust, all that fun stuff. Basically mine is a Logitech Z-5500. It's a good system considering I got it from Ebay for around $350 or so about ten years ago. Also, if it helps, and Amazon link:
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-THX-Certified-Digital-Surround-Speaker/dp/B0002WPSBC
As for making sure they don't have any virtualization effects enabled, I have no idea how to do that, so I don't think anything like that is enabled since this is a fresh install. Also what do you mean by SBX...sorry for the newb questions, but I really don't understand how to do this, and while I could try on my own, I think asking for help would be the more expedient route. That said I do plan to give a look through SBC again just to familiarize myself with something I might have missed.
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EDIT: I went to Control Panel -> Sound -> Selected Speakers -> Properties, and there wasn't an enhancement tab. I tried changing the settings a little, but it didn't make any difference.
I don't see it coming from Japan on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Blaster-External-Nintendo-GameVoice/dp/B081ZN9K2M
Higher the ohm, the lower the noise floor, and the more power needed for volume. This is the one I am referring to:
https://smile.amazon.com/beyerdynamic-Over-Ear-Studio-Headphones-construction/dp/B0011UB9CQ
Rca cable, also called a phono or even a coax though technically that's the type.
You want it to go into a standard 3.5mm headphone jack i assume so this sorta thing should do the trick... https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Splitter-Controller-Connector-Gold-plated-Green/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?adgrpid=51273257417&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIp6CsprnM5AIVmPdRCh1rDwu2EAAYASAAEgL7ZPD_BwE&hvadid=259031212056&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=904...
Apologies for big link, on phone at the mo
I have the 3 port version of this one -
Anker USB C Hub, 4-in-1 USB C Adapter, with 60W Power Delivery, 3 USB 3.0 Ports, for MacBook Pro 13'' 2016/2017/2018, Chromebook, XPS, and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GYL6DNV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SC22CbM31YX56
I have the power loaded into the USB C power input port, the Switch connected to the wire attached to the hub, and the G6 attached to the usb 3.0 port. Works like a champ.
If you want me to take a picture of the setup, I can.
I have issues with TRRS plugs on the volume knob thing on my ZxR. I have to use a splitter to take the TRRS to mic and headphones.
This is the adapter I bought to make it work:
3.5mm Headset Splitter, MillSO Jack Adapter CTIA 2 Male to Female Y Splitter Adapter Cable with Separate Microphone and Headphone Compatible for PC PS4 Gaming Headset-30CM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756CK9HG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_O-tXCbD6CBTZP
Don't know anything about this but might need something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Audio-iDefender3-0-Ground-Loop-Eliminator/dp/B01N3XKOLG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1546622139&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=usb+ground+loop+isolator&dpPl=1&dpID=41iw41ISOxL&ref=plSrch
You're describing a very high end, professional recording interface dac with its own built in hub.
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Think of stuff that starts at around 10 grand and is in no way consumer grade. While it may seem like a simple thing to you. What you're describing is very tricky, super sophisticated with an integrated dac/amp. It's just too niche a product for anyone to even think about considering for super high end mass production that could be in any way affordable.
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best you could do, is buy a G6 and getting something like this:
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https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Computer-Peripheral-Sharing-GUS402/dp/B07B8TFZQJ?th=1
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That way you could switch between what is using the G6 but im pretty sure nobody has tested something like this and you'd have to be willing to guinea pig it because the switch might interfere with either the power the G6 needs to pull over usb, or it might introduce latency that interferes with the audio syncing up to what is on screen. It should be fine, I use my G6 plugged into the usb 3 hub on my 37" monitor. But YMMV
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