What are /r/Vintage_bicycles' favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

Sylvan Touring Next $85 on Amazon. I'm a casual, no foot retention, ride to farmers market and bars kind of guy. Sylvan makes the classic looking pedals. The unsealed version is cheaper. Like $35

I'm interested in details. I feel like I need new wheels they are working but are beat up and require a lot of maintenance. I had not considered lacing the hubs on my own but that sort of thing is right up my alley.

I know I need to do the chain. I bought a new one already, so that's on deck.

I was looking at this bb adapter on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VT550K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_tEsDFb8188KAR

But I'm not sure what actual bottom bracket I need from there or a good three piece assembly that goes with it.

To be clear I can figure out what's compatible but I don't know what I s a good fit stylewise and or is still fairly cost effective. I'd like to keep the sameish appearance but get lighter.

I'm leaning towards leaving the paint as is. My ultimate goal is for it to be very nice to ride but not have spent so much money on it that I'm afraid to leave it out side the library unlocked. I also feel like the crusty look gives it a sleeper vibe.

So any way don't be afraid to get as detailed as you want.

This Raleigh is another option for a light commute, just needs a brake caliper clean and lube (or put something newer on there)..$50

Chromebook users should be able to access this file either by installing Collabra Office from the Google Play store or by installing LibreOffice under the Linux (Beta) container.

There is also the LibreOffice Editor extension for Chrome that works with LibreOffice Online. This may also work with Microsoft Edge as it is Chromium based.

There is a "made in taiwan" sticker on the frame. I know many of their bikes were made by proper frame builders like (correct me if I'm wrong) Ciocc. I do not recall seeing any number stamped into the dropouts (the BB shell says M9B 91 4 13 -sounds like this bike might be a '91). They probably just started outsourcing to Asia when this bike was made.

Here is a picture: http://imgbox.com/GJqouEoK

It is not folly if its chromoly (:

Old Gumtree listings

I'd say go for it if he parts with it cheap enough. At the very least, you can hang it up it's a sweet looking bike!

That's so cool. Not sure if I got this reco from this sub or a forum but I started gaining an appreciation for Suntour specifically because of this book.

https://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Steel-Classic-Bicycle-Design/dp/0847861708

I assume you're in Madison Wisconsin, so probably higher priced bike market than most of the country. I'm in a high price market as well.

I sold a very similar Raleigh step through, for $120, and it needed work. Mine was a 10 speed, your 3 speed internal gear is actually more desirable. I sold a nice condition Huffy Open road step-through 3 speed for $165.

I would price yours at $195 if the shifter works, $225 if the tires are good and it is ready to ride.

The Trek is worth fixing up a bit before you sell. The 520 is an iconic touring bike and makes a good gravel bike, which is the most popular cycling market segment right now.

Fix whatever is happening with the left brake cable and replace the beat up saddle with this one: https://www.amazon.com/ZHIQIU-Colour-Breathable-Comfortable-Bicycle/dp/B07CGFMWWC

Give it a quick bath and hit it with some car polish. Clean the rear cassette and oil the chain. Make sure the tires hold air so the buyer can test ride. Also, remove the rack, saddle bag and waterbottle cages when you take pictures (you can offer them as "extras" instead of a discount when someone inevitably tries to haggle).

I would list yours for $450 and reduce the price $25/week until it sold.

Similar bikes I've sold, all tuned up and ready to ride, with bottom bracket and headset serviced:

Miyata 610 (mint) $455

Schwinn Crosscut $350

Miyata Triple-Cross $400

Bianchi Volpe $425

Cannondale ST600 (mint) $365

Trek 420 (1989) $240

The last time I went into a bike shop I paid a ridiculous amount of money for 4 feet of housing the guy cut from a big roll. The only reason I didn't walk out was because I didn't want to be a jerk. You can get 50 feet on Amazon for $17.

https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Lined-Brake-Cable-Housing/dp/B000AO9ZI4?th=1

You can get an assortment of bearings on amazon. I got these when i serviced my bike: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018B7D05K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I will just give some input regarding wheel replacement. It looks like 27" wheels to me, if you are replacing them anyway you better change to 700c to get more tire selection. The brakes look to have enough additional 4mm reach for 700c rims.

This is the best option for new wheelset if you want to stick with the freewheel option. You may be able to get used 700c set cheaper, especially if it's from older bike.

If your current wheel has 5-speed freewheel, it is likely to have 120mm rear hub spacing. The new set I recommend has 126mm spacing, so you just have to pry the rear dropout to put on the new wheel.

If it currently has 126mm spacing, then you can also consider a more modern road 130mm freehub + cassette. I would stick with 7-speed if you will use the current shifter in friction mode. Not as original, but if you can find a set with good price you can consider this option.

The only specialty tool you will need is freewheel remover. The freewheel may be fused to the hub, though. If you buy new wheel & new freewheel, no tool needed to put them together. If you go with freehub, you will need cassette remover and chain whip tools.

Will these brake pads off amazon suffice?

The Flying Wheels Bolt Bike Brake Pads (Bag of 4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XWFJA60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YjQzFbDSQPPP8

Not looking for perfect, I only plan on riding this thing less than 200 miles a year.

Also, does anyone have a price estimate for replacing the brake cables/case as well as the gear cable/case? It seems water got inside and now the back brake doesn’t work properly.

If you stick with the original brakes I also recommend replacing the straddle cable and carrier with something like this.These have less flex, a wider profile for more even cable pull, and are easier to center than the originals.

You might already know this. but I spent way too long researching and learning how to set up the older wide profile cantis: Essentially, the line from the canti stud to the straddle cable attachment should make a 90deg angle with the straddle cable when activated. This gives the brake arm its longest effective leverage for best mechanical advantage. Additionally, you want to set up the brake pads so that they hit the rim as perpendicular as possible. On smooth-post canti pads it’s also usually best to set them up as close to the brake arm as possible. If you think of the brake arm and pad as a lever pivoting on the canti stud, this makes the brake pad side of the lever short as possible and the brake arm as long as possible, maximizing mechanical advantage. With these particular cantis the arms are short enough that you want to maximize their mechanical advantage. (Newer cantis are generally longer and you can overdo it!)Here’s the long detailed version if you’re interested.

Ok good, I was gonna recommend you get a vernier caliper for starters, so you can measure exactly what you need and not make any assumptions.

This is your first step in getting un-lost:

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Micrometer-Measuring-Precision-Measurements/dp/B074HZ8S21

Yep, and it should have cable liner running through it like this, or housing if it fits, not naked cables.

Cable liner link.

Very cool bike, hope you enjoy it!

I tried with the barrel adjuster removed, but the new hood actually spit when i was trying to pull it up/over.

Do you have any idea what the 144.7 describes for this product?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C17OEW?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Someone might have it but I've never seen anyone selling this stuff these days.

If you are married to a 1 piece type grip, you could try "track grips" like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Track-Grips/dp/B07BZ8Q1HF

If you search around, they come in lots of colors and brands.

There are also LOTS of option for types of tape, it's not all the foam tape you often see. There's leather, cloth, rubber that looks leather-ish, "lizard skins," etc. Here are a few examples:

https://velo-orange.com/collections/handlebar-tape

Gotcha, I looked the tires up, found this on amazon for around $15 its the black with black sidewall. The tires on the bike currently are a bit worn out. Thinking about picking up 2 of these. I appreciate your recommendation.

Welp not sure if the MTB tires will fit with those rear chainstays but this is your best cheapest bet, and already comes with tires:
https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Alloy-Mountain-Wheels-Tires/dp/B07P83YDJG/ref=sr\_1\_32?c=ts&keywords=Bike+Wheels&qid=1658220129&refinements=p\_n\_feature\_six\_browse-bin%3A6404040011&s=outdoor-recreation&sr=1-32&ts\_id=34...

This is amazing stuff for polishing. I have used it myself. It is very good stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/Simichrome-390050-Metal-Polish-Tube/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B0002YUQ4E&psc=1

What are you going to do with a beautiful bike that is the wrong size for you ?

I am happy with the Kingou brown tape I found on Amazon. It wrapped well and has a good, slightly tacky feel to grip- I was afraid a leather might be slippery, but this is a very good finish. The color was a good match for the Brooks honey brown. The price was excellent, compared to Brooks.

The only thing I cannot comment on is the long term durability. Due to family issues and Covid constraints, I haven’t been able to put a lot of mileage on the stuff yet(somewhere around a hundred I would say), but it looks to be durable.

The tape is of moderate thickness: much more than old linen/canvas tape, but much less than the spongy cushioned tapes that are common. You will definitely want padded riding gloves.

My only disappointment was the supplied finishing tape, which was just black vinyl electrical tape, for all intents and purposes. I found some brown vinyl tape at a local building supply, and it’s a good match.

https://www.amazon.com/KINGOU-Carbon-Fiber-Leather-Handlebar/dp/B01790W100?th=1&psc=1

They sell adapters, and you might be able to find one in chrome. I'd keep the Huret though, personally, it was an iconic product simply because of how many were sold. Despite having the shittiest geometry I've ever seen (it literally swings further away from the cogs as it moves to the smaller ones), it shifts well due to its rigidity.

I switch out smaller vintage clips for MKS deep clips, and I wear basic low-tops with them.

Back then racers wore specific shoes with slots that gripped the pedals (sort of like these but without the modern cleat attachments). If you plan to walk around normally, you probably won't want these.

There are a bunch of vintage looking bullet lights on Amazon. Most have poor reviews. I wanted a USB rechargeable bullet light but couldn't find it one, so I settled for this. Haven't used it enough to give it my blessing but it matches the aesthetic.

GOODKSSOP Bright 6 LED Metal... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QLZNTN2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

WD-40 will help free up anything frozen from rust, but it won’t do well to neutralize and strip the rust off. I’d recommend using some stiff bristle toothbrushes and something like this: Hardcore Chain & Gear Cleaner Concentrate, Refill (2 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QSD1XYX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BRK23BPH9H6D9P5WPWYV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Soak your components in that for a minute or so then pull out and scrub. Be sure to wear gloves and go one component at a time. Pull them apart, clean them, put them back together, lest you end up with a bunch of random washers and bolts.

I’ve used this on my car and it worked well, too. https://www.harborfreight.com/1-gallon-evapo-rust-rust-remover-96431.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12169617963&campaignid=12169617963&utm_content=116466579069&adsetid=116466579069&product=96431&stor...

Good luck! Don’t forget to post follow-up pics.

Sucks

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1. Two suggestions:
   1. Get an auto body slide hammer. 10lb would be best. they can be rented cheap. Attach vise grips to the business end then clamp that to the top of the post. You will need some rounds to anchor the frame while you whack on it.

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1. Get a decent hacksaw. Tape off top tube and seat tube near seat post to avoid accidents with saw. Cut post off @ 90' to frame about .25" above binder bolt.

Get sorting like this https://www.amazon.com/Great-Neck-80070-Quarter-Hacksaw/dp/B004FEI298/ref=pb_allspark_dp_session_sims_pao_desktop_6/141-9575577-8762937?pd_rd_w=XLnca&pf_rd_p=3ac2ce50-9d75-4bd3-868d-72b252a0623c&pf_rd_r=03W7QXDYB0TWMQFCYTBK&pd_rd_r=1dd96980-fc50-4b3d-83e6-1148709b8cef&pd_rd_wg=1LA5h&pd_rd_i=B004FEI298&psc=1

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Use PB as lube and make vertical cuts on the inside of the post; think pieces of pie. This is tedious. Get the cut almost to the inside of the seat tube then go on to next. You might need a few cuts; you might need a shit ton of cuts; more PB. Use a narrow cold chisel to start to loosen the post from the inside; more PB. Once you get a section removed or loose you can try to crush the tube with vise grips on the top section sticking out then work the pieces out.

If you like the patina and you are going to tear down and grease things you could consider a clear coat application to protect the patina.

If you're not gonna tear down everything or don't feel like masking it all off, a simple wax/sealant will help repel water and dirt.

If you're gonna go the wax/sealant route, I'd like to highly recommend Collinite 845. This is an old school product that works extremely well. Its the only thing I use on my car and is incredibly durable. Ony car it lasts about 6 months. (pro tip- wax your windshield. Not only does the water ahead right off, but it also prolongs the life of your wipers and eliminates any wiper squeak.) A lot of people laughed when I told them I waxed my old miyata 215st, but if I do get any road grime on it, a simple low pressure hose wash has it back to new. Also, the layer of protection helps prevent formation of oxidation.

Obviously, give the bike a good wash prior to either clear coat or wax/sealant. I'd avoid high pressure spray due to the potential water ingress or damaging the patina. Doesn't need to be crazy.

Nice looking bike. Enjoy it!

Sunlite makes them that would work for this bike. May not be the best fit, but the one I got looks good on my Raleigh 3spd: https://smile.amazon.com/Sunlite-Steel-Frame-Pump-Chrome/dp/B000M4D6D2/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=sunlite+frame+pump&qid=1619804029&sr=8-2

Edit: Here is a photo of mine https://www.reddit.com/r/bicycling/comments/6f4x1w/two_of_my_favorite_things/

I taco’d the steel rear wheel on my 70s road bike two years back and my bike shop got me a replacement from Sun Ringle rim like this

www.amazon.com/dp/B002DMRBY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_EGdRFb7G2NPTS?

laced to an origin 8 hub. I wasn’t charged for the lacing, so I assume they bought it from the their supplier like that

No problem, I do a lot of volunteer at my local bike co-op so I'm right there with you.

1987 Bianchi Premio

Brakeset: Dia-Compe QS500N with aero levers (these are the side-pull quick-release brakes one model below below the "G" model)

Bar/Stem: HL racing bend/KL alloy (No idea about the bars. Stem is probably early Kalloy)

Crank: Sugino VP 110BCD; 52/42

Pedals HTI-A1 alloy (No idea. Just put some SP-150 pedals on there like everyone else)

Derailleurs/Shifters: Shimano 525 SIS (if memory serves, these are from the "Light Action" indexing group which replaced the "Z" series parts)

Seat/Post: Viscount Nuovo/SP-241 alloy (I remember "SP" model number posts being from Sugino)

Hubs/Rims: KK-310 quick release/Weinmann alloy 27" (no idea about those hubs)

Freewheel: Shimano UG 14-28 (probably one of those bronze-colored ones. They don't say it's a 6-speed, but it would have been)

Misc: Clips and straps, Benotto Celo bar tape (generic black Celo tape is still easy enough to find on Ebay - I have it on several of my bikes)

If yours is from '86 or '88 these parts should be close enough since I think they were all being made in those years. If it's from earlier, the Shimano indexing stuff didn't exist, and if it's later then I couldn't guess what it might have had. It's a shame that Bianchi doesn't seem to care enough about its older stuff to scan some catalogs. Have fun, and let me know if you need anything.

Sure, here's a photo of them on my Tempo. These are the exact ones I ordered - hope this helps!

So if you wanna do this on the cheap, they still make French cups, and they probably work just fine with a Sunlite Axle in the right length.

Photos of the bike in question will help. Is this the motorcycle-looking red mosquito?

I do not think Tourney crankset comes with more than 48T option for the largest chainring. If you want triple crankset, I bought this triple crankset for my 21-speed hybrid and have been happy so far. Buying new chainrings for you Sugino cranks will likely cost you more.

Any front derailleur will work if you use friction shifter.

Why do you think you need to change the rear derailleur?

You need to assess the wear level of the chain & rear cogs to decide if replacement is warranted.

If you go to 7 speeds you could upgrade to 7 speed sti shifters like these: https://www.amazon.com/SENSAH-Shifters-Derailleur-Groupset-Compatible/dp/B083S6CH7P/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=sensah+2x7&qid=1596725221&sr=8-2

I just upgraded my Schwinn to a 7 speed freehub and put those on. They work really well.

Origin8 Classique Sport Quill Stem, 1" Fork Diameter, Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B138POS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_f-jdFbA7YPRTA

Just ordered this guy. From what you’ve said this should work right?

Really appreciate the input! I haven’t noticed the jockey wheel hitting the freewheel, but I’ll double check that there’s no contact.

Any advice on finding a compatible freewheel? I may just go that route since most seem to think the derailleur may not be the culprit, or at least not what I should start the trouble shooting with.

I could have the mech swap for one he may have in stock, but I’d consider sourcing the part myself if it saves some coin.

Edit: Wondering if this guy would do the trick: Amazon

It's one of [these](http://www.RAM.com/ MOUNTS (RAM-B-132U 1" Diameter Ball Mount with Round Base, Self-Leveling Cup Holder & Cozy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003A8CPWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ErCLDb7WJTS94) with a 1" ball mount on the handlebar

For rusted steel, I use Evapo-Rust. Afterwards, you can bring them back to a satin luster with 0000 steel wool. The 4-ought steel wool also works well on aluminum.

These actually worked perfect:

Tacx Sealed Bearing Pulleys - Shimano/Campagnolo 10 Teeth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VRGX02/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.8JXCb0F51WWZ

Unfortunately the spring tensioner broke so I had to spring for a new Shimano derailleur haha

Origin8 Classic Pro Quill, 1" x 26.0 x -18-Degree x 80mm, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002PTQF4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uvsmCbGY3MR1X

That's the one I bought for my '76 Peugeot A08. I move a lot of components to black. Also put on a new gruppo and made it my bad weather computer. Honestly, love that bike. I get lots of compliments and "steel is real!" shoutouts haha

I went with the Tektro r559. They were $45 a pair on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/TEKTRO-Reach-Calipers-55-73mm-Silver/dp/B01N99BGKO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543383269&sr=8-1&keywords=tektro+r559

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These barely reached all the way in the rear.

Something like this? Could I just replace the whole thing and add this with new cranks and pedals?

Shimano Alivio BB52 Mountain Bicycle Bottom Bracket - SM-BB52 - ESMBB52B https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OMDQI1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dNyQBbMS3XQ1G

Maybe a set of Velocity Wheels with the Fusion rims in 650c which is a smaller wheel in overall diameter than the usual road bike wheel (700c) and will take tyres from 19-28mm, with 25mm probably the ideal fitment for your bike assuming you're a more compact rider. If ordering online, make sure to specify machined sidewalls for braking reasons.

And then fit a nice set of Continental Grand Prix 4000 tyres

If you're looking for new levers, Origin8 makes some nice vintage looking ones:

Origin8 brake levers

So even 7400 series hoods seem to be fairly difficult to come by. Looking around for alternatives (and some people here have mentioned them), do you think the Dia Compe aero hoods might fit? Or would the reach on them be too extreme?

Thanks for help!

I didn't. Old pads will harden and will not brake very well, especially with steel rims. Gray matter pads are essentially a direct, period-correct replacement. The only other options would be this or this, both made by Sunlite.

Richard's Bicycle Book

Make sure you get an older-edition paperback; he should be knelt over a 10-speed on the cover. Avoid the "new" or "21st century" editions. They don't have cool drawings like this.

I like the Klean Kanteen bottles - they look kind of retro