What are /r/Warmachine's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

I should have taken some progress pics so I could put together a real tutorial but here's the basic steps. It wasnt too hard actually.

I bought one of the 100mm plastic sphere molds off amazon here https://www.amazon.com/Naice-Round-Plastic-Balls-12-Pack/dp/B013I48KA6/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i1?_encoding=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=ZVBFCDS6X3PKAVH6DNYK&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2a864ace-95b0-4160-8611-8c...

I cut off about an inch with a hobby saw and used some shears to cut the cracks into it. Then I bought some (no joke) women's fishnet stockings to use as a mask and spray painted the pattern on.

There's a small magnet at the top of the force field that snaps onto a magnet on the arc node's top most exhaust to have it be detachable. Wanted to be able to still bring the model to the table lol

I own 4 faction decks. But lately I have been using this

I'm not sure if something like this is frowned upon in this sub, and if it is let me know I'll delete this post asap.

Its basically a knock off Warroom. The interface is kind of clunky, but it has all the features of Warroom and a few extras. You have to find the data to import though as its not included.

Just PSA, the new War Room works on $50 tablets so it might now be cheaper and easier to switch to digital.

I don't actually think the cards you want will be available outside of digital for a few months.

edit: I would just screen shot from War Room. You don't need a PDF resolution unless you're going for professional print. There's a few cards that need to scroll however :-(

My old Mk2 Core rulebook lists the main colors for Cygnar as Cygnar Base Blue, Rhulic Gold, Cold Steel, and Thamar Black.

The 6-pack of Cygnar paints sold by Privateer Press includes: Cygnar Blue Base, Cygnar Blue Highlight, Ironhull Grey, Cygnus Yellow, Arcane Blue, and Rucksack Tan.

My old Mk2 rulebook "Forces of Warmachine: Khador" includes not only what colors to use, but also a comprehensive guide on how to use them, going step-by-step through how they achieved the studio scheme. It's much more detailed than the newer Mk3 book "Forces of Warmachine: Khador Command", which focuses more on showing a variety of alternate color schemes. I imagine it's the same way with the Cygnar books. You can probably pick up the old Mk2 one for pretty cheap - here it is on Amazon for $9.49 with free shipping, or your FLGS might have an old copy for even less (since the rules are all out of date).

If you have an Android device, you can check WHAC:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.schlaf.steam&hl=es_419

You have to download the card data from the forum, and its data is community driven, so it may have some mistakes.

And it's Open Source, so if you have the expertise, you can help to improve it: https://github.com/schlaf/WHAC_by_slaforet

I made these: A4 US letter

If you print without scaling, you should be able to fold along the dotted line and trim it to the right size for a card sleeve (it fits in mine, anyway). I made the two page sizes to avoid the risk of weird scaling or printing issues, but that may have been a bit superstitious these days.

Check out the Maryland Warmachine Players Google Group

I'm not sure about Hartford, but I know there are at least 4 between Baltimore and DC, and a couple more in the Baltimore/Townson area.

You're a little to far away from me to get to on a regular basis but if you're planning on running a tournament send me a PM.

Does this work?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8uha7owv8bmaaep/Old%20Leagues.zip

Stuff for:

• Blasted Heath
• Blighted Shadows
• Nightfall
• Rotterhorn
• Sand Narrows
• Thundercliff Peaks
• Windless Waste

You have to pick an objective for each of your lists while building them, you cannot change it before you go into a game or when you roll for scenario. There is a cool website you can use to help you with objectives and scenarios. They have all the objective cards there in an easy to use format. If you are on Andriod you can grab the mobile app version

If money is limited, I wouldn't waste money on War Room. WHAC is an excellent, free alternative. The only (small) downside is that you have to go to their forum after installing to get the data files.

Speaking of which, they are trying to put the second level in as a kickstarter, so if anyone wants to help... https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/2054776865/black-diamond-games-community-game-center-expansio

If you just want quick and dirty, I use a 10 dollar case from Walmart that comes with a layer of pluck foam and 2 layers of eggcrate.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Plano-Protector-Series-Four-Pistol-Case/16662942

Heres a video of the case. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3j_zhmDRHLw

If you make the pale yellow bits a little warmer, and the red highlights a little more orange, you'll have a really nice complementary triad going on, like this: http://paletton.com/#uid=33v0u0krgTnfPWrlRURzYQWMRAX

Also, a really easy way to make the metal bits, especially the chainmail look nicer, is to use a black wash (games workshop's Nuln Oil is what I use) and apply it liberally.

Here's the rest of my Mamoth pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/49587656@N00/sets/72157639242396395/

If you have not finished assembling yet, I strongly recommend magnetizing the entire head, even if it is a pain in the ass between lining up the rare earth magnets and greenstuffing the necks to fit. A tip I read on another site that worked for me says use a wet plastic card sleeve and place it between the greenstuff on the neck and the head while you shape the GS to fit.

Yeah, GW's new technical paints are really nice. Blood for the Blood God is so nice and easy to use. I used it for the poor Sword Knight on my Mammoth's base. It goes right over paint really nicely.

Lots of people recommending BluStacks but that program gave me nothing but grief and ads. I would recommend Genymotion (https://www.genymotion.com/) instead. It's free for personal use, has no ads , is less resource intensive, and actually shuts down when you close the program unlike bluestacks who leaves a process running in the background.

Installation is very easy download the installer (the full pack, you need both programs mentioned for the emulator to function properly). After that set up a device, I did a custom tablet with the largest screen resolution available. Once you get the emulator up and running just get the APK file from the PP forms (http://privateerpressforums.com/showthread.php?252515-War-Room-2-Direct-Downloads) and drag and drop the file into the emulator window. Congrats you now have warroom 2 the PC edition.

This light box is similar to the one I got. It was worth just getting one on Amazon vs. spending a day building my own and sourcing materials.

Also, this blog post on getting good miniature picture may help as well. Spoiler: I did write it, but I think it's helpful and you clicking the link doesn't monetarily support me in any way whatsoever. Summary: lots of lights and a steady place to set your camera to eliminate blurriness go a LONG way toward decent pictures.

You’re welcome. Weird about the play store... wonder if it got yanked temporarily?

Might be able to grab from amazon instead, if you’re into that sort of thing:

https://www.amazon.com/Privateer-Press-Inc-War-Room/dp/B01G448UXY

There is also an app with all the rules and cards. Making it easy to make lists and so you don't have to print a bunch of cards. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.privateerpress.warroom2 I have an Android so if you have an iPhone it's called war room 2.

I kinda laughed when PP dropped that "They are not sharing their secrets" bullshit. That model looks to be printed in a "tough" resin. I have been printing with the tough resin for a while and it is nice to be able to drop a model from table to hard floor and have it not break.
https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Precision-UV-Curing-Photopolymer-Printing/dp/B096MM7LFB

It's available since yesterday morning (Spanish morning :P) in Android

If it doesn't appear by search, try the direct link

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.privateerpress.warmachine.client

The trick to magents is buy some of these: https://www.amazon.com/Educational-Identified-Students-Teachers-Education/dp/B07P8VF26X

(demonstration magnets for grade school teachers)

Decide on a pattern, such as Red is always the side you put towards the body, blue to the limbs.

Place your magnet on the appropriate end.

Put glue in the hole.

Use the colored bar magnet to push your mini mag into the hole.

Gently slide the bar magnet off while using your fingernail or something non-magnetic to follow the bar magnet and hold the mini in place.

I use this technique on mdf terrain and 3d printed terrain all the time. Right is always red, left is always blue, up is always north, down is always south. As long as you have a pattern, you shouldn't go wrong.

The trick to magents is buy some of these: https://www.amazon.com/Educational-Identified-Students-Teachers-Education/dp/B07P8VF26X

(demonstration magnets for grade school teachers)

Decide on a pattern, such as Red is always the side you put towards the body, blue to the limbs.

Place your magnet on the appropriate end.

Put glue in the hole.

Use the colored bar magnet to push your mini mag into the hole.

Gently slide the bar magnet off while using your fingernail or something non-magnetic to follow the bar magnet and hold the mini in place.

I use this technique on mdf terrain and 3d printed terrain all the time. Right is always red, left is always blue, up is always north, down is always south. As long as you have a pattern, you shouldn't go wrong.

Hands down: Loctite Super Glue Ultra Gel Control, 4-Gram Bottle (1739050) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ELV2D0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_V4S0BRX9JH6Z1H2X7VHB

Always scrub the models pieces with dish soap and dry before you glue.

You mean like this one?

You have to look around for them, but the truth is that for several years the market was absolutely flooded with them and PP couldn't get them out of their warehouse. Same thing with colossals. They ended up doing warehouse deals every year where they pretty much gave them away at cost so that they could free up space for their newer products. They are looking in to a solution to make more, but the company is strapped right now since right after it did a warehouse move+reorganization that took ages longer than they had planned for they were hit hard by Seattle Covid policies and atypically harsh winters for the area.

The thing is that when the old starter boxes were made, all over the US WMH was the game to get new players in to. When mkIII happened it transferred to 40k, Guild Ball, and Infinity and distributors and game stores shrunk their space for WMH to make room for those and newer products coming out of Kickstarter launches as well as XWing.

WMH fan base will still be around longer than nearly all of the competitive kickstarter games though. Guild ball, Relic Knights, and loads more have already closed doors. So WMH's not a bad game to get in to, especially if they can use the RPG and Orgoth to turn around(they are going to need a really strong product to turn things towards getting in the running with GW again though)

Yeah, dropped the battle engine, cleared out infantry, and then scrapped Prime Axiom. It was gnarly. But hey, I cleared out Boomhowler, so that was cool. This is how the game ended.

I have a modular board that includes hills that I made. I primarily use it for demos any more, but I think I have a diagram of it somewhere.

Found the diagram! My wording in the diagram is a little wonky, so feel free to ask questions. Also, feel free to use the plans to make your own table.

I was thinking I'd make a monopoly dog wardog. Not a shibe or corgi, but still ridiculous.

you could look into 3d printing, something like this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:215558

I imagine it would be relatively easy to shrink the model down to the correct scale, though I admit my knowledge of 3d printing is pretty basic, shrinking it too far might reduce fidelity or something.

$175 USD after shipping. It's not "expensive" it's prohibitively expensive.

these are height adjustable. problem solved. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lifetime-4-Residential-Adjustable-Fold-In-Half-Table/21765535

I recently put him together myself. I did end up pinning the main leg (drill and wire I bought a while ago on Miniature Market, not that expensive IIRC), but I actually think the main component to mine being so sturdy is that I put a little glue between the 2 legs where they meet at the "knee" joint. This creates a nice little balancing triangle for the top part so that the weight comes straight down on the leg.

The legs do have a little wiggle room in how they attach and I've been told that others don't have the 2 legs touching, but mine seemed to just come together that way and it seemed to work really well, and still looks good from all angles.

Pic for reference (not my pic, but seems to demonstrate what I mean). Hope that helps!

The thing about painting is that it's supposed to be enjoyable. It's not meant to be a chore that you dread. Don't worry about colour matching, that comes with experience. Don't worry about the talent of other people it wont ever help you. Trust me on that last one, I fall for it all the time and when I do it destroys my motivation. Don't get discouraged.
When you look at all the models that you need to work on you're being demotivated by the task ahead of you and the work other people have done. This is pretty normal. Don't get discouraged.

If you're having problems with a colour scheme and you don't want to follow the one from the model you've painted head on over to a colour wheel and throw in something then see what works with what you've chosen.

As for painting, a suggestion would be to take all of your models and put them away somewhere out of sight. Then pick a unit, preferably a small one like a 3-5 man, and paint those. Once you're done that paint a jack, solo, or warbeast. Then a min unit, followed by the CA/WA, then whatever is needed to make a max unit. Take a break after that and then repeat the process until you get to the miniatures that have already been painted by someone else. At that point you can decide if you want to strip the model/unit and repaint those. Continue until the army is done. Take breaks as needed so you don't get burned out and most importantly don't get discouraged.

Adobe Kuler: https://color.adobe.com/

You can log in, upload an image, and it will make schemes from images. Very handy for all sorts of design/color work.

https://color.adobe.com/An-Ancient-Time-color-theme-8288034/

Note that the branded mats are... branded. Pretty prominently so with the Warmachine and Hordes logos in the corners. Might be a plus for you or a major negative.

https://www.amazon.com/Frontline-Gaming-Privateer-Crossroads-Wargaming/dp/B07HR53NYP

They moved the digital side over to Kindle, eg: https://www.amazon.co.uk/At-What-Cost-Douglas-Seacat-ebook/dp/B01016WWPS/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=At+what+cost&qid=1609498245&s=digital-text&sr=1-3

You might be able to make a wash with Stuart Semple Black 2.0, just have to be careful with how much it gets diluted.

black 2.0

I personally use Army Painter primer or Citadel Primer but really most black/white primers should be fine. I used to use Rustoleum without complaint.

Another cool thing about P3 paints is that there are sets specific to an army. Here on amazon you can find the one for Retribution

If you need paint this paint set has both purple and green in a less vibrant shade to go more with the aesthetic of a cryx army. Here's the colors that come in it.

I use a multicutter to get the large pieces off followed by a lot of sanding

https://www.amazon.com/Ronan-401-Multi-Cut-4-Cutter/dp/B01DWRYA7Q/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=hand+cutting+tool&qid=1552934967&s=industrial&sr=1-4

We use these, they work great. They curl a little bit but not enough to be a problem and they only cost $35.

Battle Game Mat - 48" x 48" - Table Top Role Playing Game Map - Wargaming Role Play Mat - RPG Dust Warefare & Flames of War - Reusable Miniature Figure Board Games - 40k Warhammer Gaming Vinyl https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGNJ5MY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4aeGBbA4S8FYX

These on Amazon UK are in brass are almost the exact same ones I often use, from hobby stores in the US. I have some acrylic ones too but when mine get broken they are often a pain to replace so it seems like I fall back on these all the time for ease and low cost.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/CraftMedley-WR099-Piece-Assorted-Brass/dp/B007C7WY2Q/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1534351142&sr=8-5&keywords=4%22+brass+ring

edit: I forgot to paste the URL because I need more coffee.

https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Airbrush-Thinner-200ml-Paint/dp/B002X6DTHK

One bottle will paint a ton of minis. For p3 paints, I usually use 1:3 paint to thinner. Some of the metalics I use 1:5 paint to thinner. Also if you're splattering you may be using too much air pressure.

To my knowledge, only the original Minions vs Cygnar CoI box has been released. None of the other factions have been released.

The faction paints are restocked in waves. I see them out of stock every few years, then they'll come back. They're a great buy, since you get 6 paints for about the price of 5.

Up until 2014-15 all of the fluff was just in the core and faction rule books. Since then, a number of novels have been released. There is a up to date, compiled list around here or the main forums somewhere. i'll see if I can find it. https://www.amazon.com/Iron-Kingdoms-Excursions-Season-Collection-ebook/dp/B00NMWBLD8 https://www.amazon.com/Wicked-Ways-Kingdoms-Chronicles-Anthology/dp/1943693595

There are paint sets aimed at historical armies that use very realistic tones. Those could be good if they fit an overall feel or aesthetic you like. Example: Vallejo's WWII Allied forces set.

I'm going for more of a vibrant fantasy feel, so I picked up Vallejo's 72-paint Game Color set for a nice range of colors, metallics, and varnish. It was like $200 on Amazon, instead of the ~300 it would have normally cost. Army Painter also has bundled sets that fit a common theme or tone.

As for starting models, picking up an infantry box is a decent idea, since it gives you some options for experimenting to find a color scheme you like. Grabbing one of the Battlegroup starter boxes is also a good way to start, as they are quite heavily discounted for what's in them. They're like $75+ worth of models for $40.

Yep, goes on extremely thin and doesn't chip one bit.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-211338-Paint-Plastic-12-Ounce/dp/B0002YPHFC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1515624089&sr=8-4&keywords=rustoleum+plastic+primer is where it's at for generic black primer

I used Vallejo Desert Sand Gel for the bases on my friend's desert hydras.

If you let it dry most of the way, you can sort of sculpt it so it isn't just a flat surface. I used a paperclip with some greenstuff blobs to create depressions and peaks in the sand, you can't see them too well in the pics though.

Realeather Crafts Zinc Metal Rings, 3-Inch, 6-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DG8VBK6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Pz-EzbS3097H7

they use these for macrame and hoops for dream catchers are what they're usually used for.

hopefully this helps

Yep, i guarantee thats why they werent working out for you. The smaller brush sizes wear down super fast for me, and always got caked with dried paint and wouldn't hold a point any more. Once someone told me about using a larger brush size it changed everything for me. A really good larger brush will still hold a pretty fine point. I almost never use anything smaller than a size 3 these days. For really fine details, like painting eyes and such i have a very small size 0 Escoda Prado brush. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K48MFC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This isn't exactly what you're looking for, but it's what I use for transporting models. It's a regular Plano gun case. Mine came with three layers of foam meaning you can fit two layers of models into it nicely. I cut holes for the bottom models and simply put the top layer of models in without cutting holes. Fits everything from small based warcasters to my Extreme Dire Troll Mauler.

I bought one of these a few weeks ago. I've only used it for priming and preshading so far. I'm not accurate enough to actually paint with it, but it was awesome to be able to prime a bunch of models while snowed in last week. In time, I'll probably use it to do warjacks basecoating, and some cool effects, but I still prefer a brush for nearly everything else.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TO578Q/

I'm glad you like it! For the heavy jacks I use a 100mm mold. Fits pretty perfectly around the models. Pretty sure this is the one I used: https://www.amazon.com/Naice-Round-Plastic-Balls-12-Pack/dp/B013I48KA6/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i1?_encoding=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=ZVBFCDS6X3PKAVH6DNYK&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2a864ace-95b0-4160-8611-8c...

I bought a bottle of this stuff at my local craft store about 2-3 years ago, for a little more than it is here on Amazon. I use it ever time I paint, and have gone through about 1/3 of an 8 oz bottle. I use about a 3:2 ratio (medium to paint) for P3 paints, 2:1 for army painter, for regular painting. Washes are thinned further, up to about 8:1 max. I have the glazing medium from the same company, but I'm just barely learning how to use that properly.

https://www.amazon.com/Reeves-5132-Liquitex-Matte-Medium/dp/B000KNLFDS

I work in architecture and have a pretty deep understanding of reprographics and what any decent print shop is capable of. I'm personally very excited to make what should be, in most cases, much nicer cards than what PP used in the past. I just checked the errata card PDF they released and you can get a 600dpi image for each card, have it printed on a nice linen or even plastic cardstock and use a corner punch so they have nice rounded corners and fit perfectly into some of the better sleeves available specifically for MTG/popular card game sizes.

I know the DIY/crafty aspect to miniature gaming hasn't historically extended much beyond painting/sculpting/terrain modeling, but why not give a nice set of cards the same treatment we give our beloved minis?

The Amazon family of tablets don't use the Google Play store, they use Amazon's own app store. Some apps aren't available for some reason.

However, Amazon does offer War Room 2 here

https://www.amazon.com/Privateer-Press-Inc-War-Room/dp/B01G448UXY

https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Pro-PRO-Binder-4-Pocket-Black/dp/B0094J1PJ8

Pros: Less than $10. I've used it for MtG for a long time, and it's stood up to moderate use.

Cons: Side-loading with some extra space. Cards might shift a little which messes up damage tracking. 40-pages of 4 cards might not hold everything you own. Should hold one faction and some mercs easily. A second faction will be tight.

If you plan on only playing 75 point games with clock, these are a cheaper deal. You can only use preset times. https://www.amazon.com/DGT1001-Universal-Chess-Clock-Timer/dp/B01638AKC0/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1481319148&sr=8-9&keywords=dgt+easy

For smoother surfaces this works great:

Squadron Products Seam Scraper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GKWE1M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iFRaybYC7SQR9

For detail surfaces like faces and cloth folds you just have to buck up and be patient with a hobby knife.

I would say most people use plasticard. Comes in various thicknesses (the thickest I have is 2mm).

Got an amazon link here: https://www.amazon.ca/Miniatures-Tools-Hobby-Plasticard-Variety/dp/B001DT3VYO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474649331&sr=8-1&keywords=plasticard though most hobby shops should carry it.

They look awesome. But I think I know whats missing. The reds are just orange. Get some Tamiya X27 Gloss Red. It makes very vivid blood effects. I think adding that in places would really bump up the contrast.

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Acrylic-Gloss-Clear-TAM81027/dp/B00TT856HG

Honestly i'd say toss the walmart paints and just look into some mini brand paints. Its going to be hard to stay consistent across multiple models when you have to water that paste down so much.

It looks like you went with white, bronze and pink. Check out this set that gives you all the basic colors https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Wargame-Starter-Paint/dp/B007SQ3C18/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473401398&sr=8-2&keywords=army+painter+set

The faction-specific kits are usually an exceptional deal. 6 paints, the faction studio colors, for $16 at most online retailers. Compared to Citadel which are usually $4-6 each or set of 8 for $30-35. Sadly, I don't think there is a minions one. The Mercenary or Circle paint set might have the right greens and browns though.

I use a wall-mounted version of the same clear acrylic for mine. Saves some desk space.

I went with feldherr , the bigger foam tray works for all cryx jacks and the top one fits most small base things. I've seen khador jacks/infantry and they should fit in fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Privateer-Press-Hordes-Legion-Cavalry/dp/B006VV79LU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467426987&sr=8-3&keywords=hordes+legion

Looks like a full unit of raptors for only 50 bucks. That's a hell of a deal. There is only one box at that price though. I managed to snag mine for just under 60. I felt it was a good deal. I'm hoping to get them on the table with my Journeyman League that is starting up soon.

Glue one of these guys to a base. Write prime axiom on the base so your opponent is constantly reminded what it is... Save $120!

http://www.amazon.com/Transformers-Robots-Disguise-Grimlock-12-Inch/dp/B00WO0AR02/

Edit, a more meta option:

http://www.amazon.com/Marvel-Titan-Hero-Marvels-Machine/dp/B018B2E25M/ref=sr_1_24?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1464714067&sr=1-24&keywords=titan+heros

This is the best 'Bang for the Buck' I've found.

http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Liquid-Professional-20-Gram-1365882/dp/B004Y960MU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1461597429&sr=8-3&keywords=loctite

20 grams is really nice, it doesn't have a super fine applicator but it gets the job done, set time, and hold strength are great.

Vallejo Black Primer Acrylic Polyurethane, 60ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BN5RUU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_oFJbxbHPJNKF2.

Paint on primer. So much more economical than spray can primer and available in many colors. It's also easier to get into nooks and crannies. I use is either applied with a brush or a air brush.

Also make sure you wash your minis before priming. Diluted dish soap works well. There are oils on the minis from the molding process especially metal parts.

Woodland Scenics

Just be aware, thsi stuff shrinks, a lot. I am fairly certain there is a better product out there, but, this works well enough. you just have to do multiple, thin pours.

no clue. I know it's fairly dense and yellow though

http://www.amazon.com/Masterson-Sta-Wet-Palette-palette-sponges/dp/B0027AEETE

But folded paper towel works as a replacement too. Just get it nice and wet and stick parchment paper on top

This is the newer version of the compressor I have

It's small and quiet and gets the job done.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013PB7PU8/ref=s9_simh_gw_g201_i2_r?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=0HHHVWM7SJW4X4XCHMNW&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2437869742&pf_rd_i=desktop

I have this one:

http://smile.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Quick-n-Ez-Case-Tumbler/dp/B001MYGLJC/

It's one of the cheapest around and works fine for cleaning cases and (as I found out today) mixing little paint pots.

If you are interested, I have found this to be exactly what I wanted at what I consider a reasonable price: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DOGIDTM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Or you could just get a Silhouette Portrait cutting machine for $150.

It does not cut as thick of materials that a laser cutter, but it has no problem with card stock or thin plastic sheets. Seriously this thing has helped me make so much terrain and it is crazy cheap. Check it out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-L5y7bs1nc

Yeah I have the black out issue too (I usually add and remove specialists to get rid of that) That's the tablet: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TSUGXKE/ref=s9_simh_gw_p424_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=1DJS7B19NKQPC4YKT0N0&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2079475242&pf_rd_i=desktop

I have been using a metal toolbox and neodymium magnets since I started. Not only that, but many of my friends have switched over to the magnets side of the Army storage debate. None of us have had any battlefield issues due to the magnets and it is way easier to store many models.

The standard loadout we use: Toolbox- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BETIMY Magnets- https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D41

Just keep in mind that magnets can cause harm to electronics and to animals if ingested so keep them safely stored and keep that in mind. (an old mason jar should do the trick).

If you only have a battlegroup and a couple dudes, just buy some christmas cookies that come in a tin instead of the toolbox. That toolbox houses most of my collection (~100pts cryx, ~50pts cygnar).

> also when Thyron releases

Isn't he out already? I see him listed on Amazon and on eBay. The release date in PP gallery says Sept 9 2015.

Games Workshop branded products are usually VASTLY overpriced. I haven't used the tool in question, but judging by quality of their brushes you will be over-paying by a lot. $20 for a fairly large dull blade is a lot. Squadron Products Seam Scraper is probably a superior investment as it's about half the price, and is shaped for fine detail work. You can get it into places where the Citadel Mould Remover simply won't fit on small infantry models.

Yeah, I don't know about that. Games workshop has specific base size lengths for stuff, so maybe if you find the unit whose head you are considering you can kinda judge it from there?

Either way, green stuff is your friend if you don't already know about it. http://www.amazon.com/Green-Stuff-Yellow-Epoxy-Putty/dp/B002MB61RQ

Back when I was magnetizing bases I used rare earth magnets, hot glue, a metal baking sheet and a silicon parchment paper like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Kitchen-Supply-Inch-Parchment-Paper/dp/B00004RKFR/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1435163442&sr=8-9&keywords=baking+liner

I set up my baking pan and liner and followed these steps:

1. put a glob of hot glue on the pan (with silicon sheet)

2. put a magnet int he middle of that glob

3. put glue in the bottom of the miniatures base

4. put the miniature on the magnet and glue

5. when dry, peel away from the silicon sheet.

the magnet floats in the solidified glue. the whole process only takes a few minutes, but you have a lot of problems with the metal rings that are so popular. I found my best deals on magnets on ebay.

Generic train set? That's O gauge, not some plastic mini set that runs off of a double a. I wouldn't buy it in a million years, but the train is worth a couple hundred dollars alone before the miniatures and objective markers were stuck on it for the conversion. I don't think anyone's going to buy it, but it looks like the guy is trying to sell it at original cost. Here's the amazon listing for the train the listing mentions though he claims it cost him more than that discounted price.

Trains as a hobby have the same ridiculous price factor that miniature gaming does. He's looking for a train collecting wargamer though, and that's a pretty rare breed considering both usually soak up thousands over a period of time.

you could maybe get a Wow figure, something like this:

Wow figure

Wow shares a lot of the races of Warmachine so that helps. Paint it up, maybe modify it a bit and it would look great.

I will. Here is the forum post that game me the idea You need to go almost all the way down the first page, and then things get good. Here is the crackle used

> Spellcasting is done with 2d6 + the Focus number on the card, not how many Focus tokens the warcaster has left, right?

Correct. Also, you do only roll for offensive spells.

> What is a sane way for keeping track of health and damage? We used two pieces of paper with the warjack damage grids and warcaster HP written on them.

Either plastic sleeves with dry erase, or the Warroom 2 app( Android / iOS ). The Warroom lets you build lists and views stats, etc and track damage for games. It's updated when new stuff comes out and costs $9/faction. It's a pretty good deal since the edition will likely last another 5 or so years. :)

> One of Major Beth Maddox's spells affects all warrior models. I'm assuming this doesn't apply to the warjacks which come in the battlegroup box...

You are correct. Warriors are generally anything that is not a warjack, warbeast, monstrosity, or battle engine.

Khador is in a good place at the moment and if you like the models, even better :D I will warn you for Convergence they are a 'limited release' faction meaning they get substantially fewer new releases. :( Hopefully that gets better in the future.

I kind of agree about the graphics not being needed.

However if they don't have them, the app has nothing that a 3rd party free one has. They can use their copyrighted art as a unique selling point.

Have a look at WHAC. It's an open source version in Java. Has most of everything except the fancy art GUI.

Their code is here. I had a very quick look in the repo (so the totals could be the wrong ones as I added the wrong thing) but it's about 40K lines of Java for the core functionality, not counting the GUI and and data. It's Android only and Android Java won't won't run unmodified on iOS (or even Windows).

If you want to work on a squad builder, I'd just join their project and help port it to iOS/Windows.

If Android, W.H.A.C. (in the play store) is free (open source free: not even any adverts) and has all the data plus battle damage tracking. It's also faster than war room, as it lacks the graphics, and it has a mobile-friendly UI.