You are looking at $40-50 for shipping from HLJ and it will be close getting it in time, depending on where you are located, for Christmas with the amount of shipping going on at the moment. I'm showing Amazon has it for $90 and Prime shipping.
https://www.amazon.com/ZOIDS-EZ-034-Jenobreaker-Custom-Plastic/dp/B008MU8BS8/
The code isn't bad, the game logic is sound its just not optimized. I think we could definitely work together on this. Do you have any experience in Java and the android platform? What kind of programming experience do you have outside of that project? Do you have any artistic skills? What and how much formal education? What resources can you leverage? Lets see what kind of skills and resources we could utilize and then we can figure out how best to collaborate (Github? Dropbox? Email?)
Edit: I am completing my undergraduates at USNA in both Computer Science and Information Technology (sort of a dual major program) I have experience in HTML, PHP, SQL, Javascript, Perl, C, C++, Java, Scheme, Clojure, and currently Android(java). I am comfortable with the object oriented style and pretty good at picking up and learning new languages. I initially wanted to write the game in Java/Android because i am using it now to develop little apps, and I find it simple. If you want to try and create a web application we can talk about management of a domain and a server using HTML4/HTML5 and javascript. It might be an interesting undertaking considering the advances in browser based gaming (ref: http://techcrunch.com/2013/03/27/mozilla-and-epic-games-bring-unreal-engine-3-to-the-web-no-plugin-needed/)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010PG73J4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Don't use a knife, use flush cutters like these, and a small metal file to smooth off excess plastic. I'm sure you can find cheaper cutters than this, these are just what I use.
I'm not 100% sure. I've had it for about 3 years. My wife bought it for me. I think she paid around $100 including shipping. It was on Amazon.
I think this is the listing: Kotobukiya 1/72 Scale HMM Zoids RZ-028 Blade Liger AB Bang Ver Construction Kit (Limited Edition) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002P67A9G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mnh2yb0ATJ1H8
Prices seem to have gone up a lot on that specific one but there seem to be others at slightly more reasonable prices.
Might I suggest you look into D-25 nippers, they are commonly considered the best on the market behind God hands: http://www.amazon.com/Nipper-Thin-Blade-Premium-D-25/dp/B00318PWL0
That sandpaper is perfect, just be gentle with the rougher grits and work your way up, I personally go: metal file, 1200, 1500, 2000, but you may find you prefer a different pattern (file not required, purely my preference), so try different combinations and you'll find why works best for you.
And as for the hobby knife previously suggested, I don't use one for nub removal (do have one though), some people prefer a knife, I just feel sandpaper gives a better finish with less chance of gouging the plastic or you lol, but do feel free to try one.
Hope that helps, good luck :D
Need some help as to how I can up this a bit. The final picture is a Photoshop of missile trails I am thinking of doing, but I feel like the water/swamp/marsh needs something. I have thesecoming later today which I think will jazz it up a bit, and I was also toying with the idea of doing hanging vines/moss off of Command Wolf, but am having a hard time finding something the right scale, maybe tulle with some added leaves/grass/paint to it? Just not feeling it the way I feel about the Shadow Fox diorama.
I did, i was able to do the whole patch from my mobile. To my surprise it was really stright forward.
I think I used RAR unzipper to extract the files needed for the site to patch the rom.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.rarlab.rar
Hey sorry to bother you again, but is this the same as your kit: https://www.amazon.com/Zoids-Japanese-Kotobukiya-Model-RZ041/dp/B003UTUEVI/ref=sr_1_9?crid=3JKHT3DNWV9DV&keywords=zoid+liger+zero&sprefix=zoid+liger+zero%2Caps%2C248&sr=8-9 ?
Ah I see that explains the texture. I recommend staying away from nail polish as a whole, as the acetone required to remove or fix the coverage will melt the underlying plastic. I recommend doing a fist layer of metallic paint (keeping to the same brand is always best to avoid any bad reactions between differing mixtures) then doing a teal wash overtop. Vallejo makes fantastic acrylic model paints, and they are very easy to work with. Here's a good teal option from them;
1:72 is the most common for army figures, if you search on ali express/ taobao/ local hobby shop im pretty sure you can find some generic ones.
If you want characters, 1:64 is more common, but there is no one brand to recommend. https://www.amazon.ae/Mini-Coffin-PVC-toy-model/dp/B089YXMYKM
https://www.opensubtitles.org/en/search/sublanguageid-eng/idmovie-177907/redir-off/offset-40 Subtitles based on the dubbed version. Episodes 17-67. The other episodes were subbed by DATS & ZA fansub. I hope that helps a bit
http://www.gamefaqs.com/gamecube/929303-zoids-full-metal-crash/faqs/53115 Have you looked at this one before? It's not 100% perfect, but I found it'll help you through most of story mode. It'll show you about the system menu you repeatedly come across, and tells you what most decisions do. That aside, to unlock most of the pilots from the animes, you get a new one each time you clear Zi-Battle Mode. More so, with the money you earn there, you can buy weapons, some of which will unlock Zoids.
https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Marker-Value/dp/B00HY93GHY This set is your most basic panel liners. They fit in most of the panel lines and you can just clean them up with a qtip and some water (or rubbing alcohol if you want the cleanup to go easier).
I use this stuff for both gundam and zoids and have had no issues. This one inparticular has a nice fine tip for controlled application.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ELV2D0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_9W685NH7JV2PXTTD5FC0
I'm loving the Command Wolf trend these days! I just finished mine on Saturday, and posted pictures today. I would recommend a couple of things for you: one, a set of alligator clips with stands like this one , And you should get some blue tack as well, as not all of the parts will have a place for the alligator clips to clamp.
You are right about Tamia not having the perfect command wolf blue, so perhaps you should try Mr color instead. The manual contains a color guide that will help you get closer the next time. I know that's what I plan to do haha
I feel like I should hold off and build other things but at the same time zoids are really the only models I like besides some of the old G Gundam/Shining Gundam stuff that isn't very popular lol. Afraid the price of that Liger Zero will keep going up again if I don't grab it now and I have to jump in sometime soon since that Blade Liger is suppose to show up in November and Command Wolf sometime next March. I've settled on basically buying these to remove the parts https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010PG73J4/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and then a generic pair or sprue cutters for just splitting the plastic up. But as you mentioned is seems like Kotobukiya kits aren't very friendly even to seasoned builders.
A buddy said he would mail me "Gundam Astray Red Frame" RG 144 this weekend. Apparently it was just sitting in his closet so maybe that'll help ease me into the Liger Zero kit.
I use that all the time. The best process for me is this:
1) shake bottle
2) unscrew
3) touch brush to line, let spread
3a) I sometimes also use it to fill divots in the parts.
3b) You will get some on the piece, no big deal
3c) let dry for 10-15 minutes
4) Clean up
4a) Get some hard, hobby Q-tips (like these: https://www.amazon.com/Pointed-Cotton-Double-Precision-Makeup/dp/B07Q4RW17G/ref=asc_df_B07Q4RW17G/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385587032845&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5750518101341355391&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028239&hvtargid=pla-840098427530&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=77764998959&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385587032845&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5750518101341355391&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028239&hvtargid=pla-840098427530)
4b) Dip the tip in mineral spirits briefly
4c) rest on a paper towel to let the excess wick away
4d) rub the spill, overline, etc with the swab.
- Because it's a hard Q-tip, it won't get into the line where the ink should be. So you can run it over the surface.
- Rotate the Q-tip frequently. If there's any ink on that spot, it can actually spread, making things worse.
All done.
It's this one! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TP86V99/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good price for a two pack too.
if you enjoy this building process invest in a model kit starter set with a pair of nippers. Any will do if you are just starting out and you can find some great starter kits on amazon for decent prices. ive linked the one I got on amazon down below but there are better ones out there.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PVFY5MC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
As for the glue dont worry about needing to glue if you have to. Koto kits are pretty plastigrenady they are really ment to be posed once then put on a shelf. (My hmm balde liger has so much glue im actually ashamed really. Bit keep in mind that this is a model kit not an action figure (bandai spoils gunpla builders with ridiculous articulation and stability)
Are you set on the Markings Plus or would the OG release do? That one is a bit cheaper: https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/Kotobukiya-Zoids-RZ-041-Panzer-Plastic/dp/B007CUHBYY/ref=sr_1_21?dchild=1&keywords=zoids%2Bhmm&qid=1601069791&sr=8-21&th=1
The Liger Zero and its CAS variants are extremely popular. Koto has done a number of reprints on them. With the Jager armor coming out soon, they're almost guaranteed to do an armor-only reprint of the other two. At the least you can grab yourself a base Zero and play the waiting game.
You might take a look at this. It comes with everything needed for basic level modeling. I ended up buying more sanding sticks cause i burned through the ones it came with but otherwise the nippers and blade are good and the tweezers come in very handy. The blade can also be used along with sandpaper to remove excess plastic and hardened glue.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0711Q48BN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I gotchu. It’s on Amazon Japan, not Amazon US. But, you can ship it to the US using the global shipping program:
https://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/4778038363
Scroll to the bottom of the page and look for the AT&T globe looking logo to translate the entire website to English. That should help you understand everything. You can’t just use google translate on the page because some stuff (like the buttons) can’t get translated and remain in Japanese.
Goddamn I can’t get over how good this kit looks. If I didn’t have an unbuilt Sturm Tyrann sitting on my desk right now, I’d be so tempted to track one down. Actually, scratch that - I am still really tempted to pick one up, but I’m saving up to put in preorders for a couple of P-Bandai kits, Nataku and Deathsycthe Roussette.
I think you did a great job; panel lining looks really solid. It’s one of those things that I was kinda reticent about trying at first because I was worried about screwing up one of my babies, not realising how easy it would be. If I could offer one little tip (because I started out exactly the same way): get yourself a set of different-coloured markers, aside from just black. Use black on dark/cool colours, brown on light/warm colours, and grey on white/neutral colours. Like plain black still looks really good, but having the different colours lends it even more depth and makes it look even better. I’d recommend grabbing a 3-piece set of GSI Creos markers off of amazon, should be about $7-$8. But, that said, I still think you did a fantastic job for your first effort. It looks helluva lot better than my first try, haha!
Not sure how much about $112 stops qualifying as "an arm and a leg," but Amazon Japan does ship internationally and where I've gotten the last few of my collectables.
If anyone is in the US - shipping is roughly $63 or about $185 shipped with DHL on Amazon JP.
I'm not sure what Australia would be, but I imagine it'll be less than AmiAmi/HLJ is charging.
Right now, use Amazon JP. They use DHL for international shipping. It's incredibly reasonable and will get to you within 2-4 business days (if you're in the US). All the usual sites (HLJ, AmiAmi, Mandarake), will charge you a lot more for DHL, but it's the only thing moving right now.
Here ya go - Liger Zero HMM for less than $75 shipped
I'd say go with something Tamiya Panel Line Accent color. Its thinned and ready to to be used out of the pot. Here is what it looks like on a white model. https://imgur.com/a/QllkIIy Things you are going to need to clean up is some Qtips and Enamel thinner. The accent super super thinned enamel paint so having some thinner on hand will allow you to clean up smudges left behind by the applicator.
Only warning is if the model is already painted with enamel paints as the thinner could damage the coat already there. Never had a problem when applied to unpainted plastic or on top of acrylic paints. There are a bunch of colors to choose from. https://www.amazon.com/TAMIYA-87133-Panel-Accent-Plastic/dp/B01EPX22ZI/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=panel%2Bline%2Baccent%2Bcolor%2Bgray&qid=1561820070&s=gateway&sr=8-1&th=1
Sorry for the dumb questions but what kit exactly? I couldn't find it outside of this kit: https://www.amazon.com/ZOIDS-EZ-034-Jenobreaker-Plastic-Kotobukiya/dp/B008MU8BS8
Tumblr post seems to say it's a Berserk Fury. Does the regular Koto HMM Berserk Fury come with them?
If so I hope it comes with the upcoming markingplus ones in June.
It's never too late! ...unless you glued parts together x_x
And Thank you! I use this: LimoStudio 16" x 16" Table Top Photo Photography Studio Lighting Light Tent Kit in a Box, AGG349 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CX9S8A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EvGkybSDHRF61
but I found that 16x16 is a bit small for a model of this size, so I bought a larger tent separately. I used an iPhone5c camera
If you don't mind not having the Attack Boosters, what about getting this one?
I remember seeing this kit once, and it seems it would be pretty much the same as Van's Liger, besides the lack of the AB and having generic unpainted pilot figures (like the first release of Leon's Liger).
Every time I go to move it, something unintended moves in some odd way. I would've taken some more pictures of it, but I didn't want to move it and spend 20 minutes to get it to look decent again. Very finicky.
It's really nice to have something zoids related be this high quality though. I wish they did more die-cast stuff. This Shield Liger is my holy-grail-unicorn that I want to own one day, but it's really hard to justify 500 bucks for a model.
There's plenty of tutorials on YouTube about how to do the different nipping, sanding, painting, and paneling lining techniques, but I think one things that people overlook is the importance of organization.
Often new modelers look at the sheer number of sprues and get overwhelmed at the thought of putting all that together. When I first open a box, I like to go through all the sprues and arrange them alphabetically so I can find them quickly.
What makes the whole process easier and more efficient for me is making sure I'm very well organized. Make a nice workspace where you won't have to move things around too much after you start, in case you need to take a break or if you plan on doing it over a long period of time.
I swear to Zoid Eve, this style of plastic sectioned storage box has been by far the most useful "tool" for me aside from my nippers. You can move the dividers around however you please. I keep q-tips, toothpicks, larger tools all in their own sections. It's great for setting loose parts in until you need them (like the polycaps), and for storing alternate weapons and armor bits. When I'm doing a build, I set the smallest sprues in it so I can find them easily. I place my paint bottles in it to keep them from accidentally getting knocked over, or contain the mess if they do. Heck, I even use it as a drying rack when painting or panel lining.
It could be stress marks, it could be your cutters are slightly nipping the kit.
Sanding isn't just for raised areas, though. I'm not sure what your building level is so sorry if it's stuff you already know, but you can use high grit sandpaper to diminish stress and mould marks. If some of the existing marks are bothering you, give it a shot and see if it helps any.
Edit: also, these are the clippers I have. http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-2175ET-Professional-Sprue-Cutter/dp/B001TMZ7QA
They cut like butter... worth thr money in my opinion
This kit is pretty much always cheaper on Amazon. All those sellers on Amazon ship from Japan too, so shipping time would probably be the same.