Hybrids are very low cost of ownership. No belts, 10k service schedule, 50% improved brake life, fuel economy, etc.. Toyotas are also some of the most reliable vehicles in production.
When you factor in the effect of low gas prices on their resale value, now is a great time to buy a pre-owned Prius.
I live in the northeast and as you know it gets cold therefore business does come to a slow haul. We have costumes we often wear when we dont have more than 5 ups in 3 days called noodle wear. It's a little emasculating but it's something we have to do when traffic plateaus. My management has found it helps but yeah it really sucks especially when the wind chill is at 20 or less. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JVZ5T24/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_vjKXDb76P4TVB Try it out and dont look back
> Ultimately, their data is completely gathered from surveys of their reader base who self-report issues.
I'm pretty sure this isn't true, unless you are specifically talking about reliability data. They do actually buy cars and test them out, passing them among their staff and doing their write up. For reliability data, they're sending out surveys every year. I've done it a few times and have always reported high marks for the cars I have because I haven't had any problems with them. So while a forum is going to be very self selective of people with problems, I don't think a survey has the same level of selection bias. You don't get to just go to CR when your car has a problem and fill in some form. They send a yearly survey and ask you how everything has been with your car or maybe other products. Sure, if you've got an axe to grind, you probably won't forget about it... but that is legitimate data. And if you have more than one car, bam now they also have data on some other car that didn't bother the person.
Like any research source, CR has its up sides and down sides. For a car, I'd hope that people don't restrict themselves to just CR. I certainly wouldn't.
Finally, how can you compare one poor experience by Edmunds to many, many reports from owners? That is the sort of thing you're panning CR for doing. Just because Edmunds had a bad experience with their car doesn't mean everyone did. Of course, those Tesla owners are a crazy lot ;)
Another example in support of CR is their used car suggestions based on price and class. They line up very well with many other suggestions, their data is clearly useful.
They do also out and out say that some of the things they are measuring are subjective, judgements. But they also do real sciency testing with measurements and data and all that sort of stuff too.
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/2012/12/how-consumer-reports-tests-cars/index.htm
I work in the credit repair industry and see uncontrollable situations bring families that make great income down every day. There could be a number of reasons that put OP in this situation, no one should assume it's his fault. OP, there are some good suggestions in this thread for the car already, so I just wanted to make a couple suggestions about your credit. What I would recommend is challenging your negative items on your credit reports. Even if you owe them, the creditors may have made mistakes when reporting them. Due to the Fair Credit Reporting Act, everything on your credit has to be fair, accurate, and substantiated. We see things like medical bills removed from peoples' reports due to faulty reporting all the time. It's worth taking the time to dispute/challenge these items. Make sure you contact both the creditor and credit bureaus. If you only contact the bureaus and they end up removing it, it's much more likely to get put back on by the creditor later. Make sure you do it yourself, credit Karma only allows you to dispute items with Transunion and Equifax, and that process doesn't address the creditor. This page has some useful information. Look into which laws you can leverage against both parties to ensure they verify all the information for you, I think there's a sample letter on that page. I know you're in a pickle and needing a quick fix, but I hope you spend some time trying to work on this now so that hopefully you're not stuck in another situation like this later. Best of luck to you!
To get that high of a score, you have to have a completely unblemished credit report, strong credit history, minimal hits to your credit, and low utilization (<5% of available credit used) of the credit you do have. That describes very few people.
Things happen; a payment gets missed, an emergency happens and 8k gets put on a card, and all of a sudden you're mid 700s. It doesn't take much to drop out if the 800s-- anything over 800 requires a lot of diligence to maintain.
Anything less than 500 also seems to take a lot of work, as you have to almost actively work to be that irresponsible.
If you want to read up on why so many families in the US seem to struggle financially, this is a good read.
>If Ford is selling something at $30k, but another company is selling a very similar car for $28k, as a consumer that is forced to pay sticker, I'd pick $28k
The thing is, cars are never "very similar". Some people will find value in a $30k Accord vs a $28k Altima even if they're both 4 cylinder 40mpg cars with leather/navi/sunroofs. And if not? The company selling a $30k car will employ people to build value and show WHY their car is worth $2000 more...they could call them salespeople.
> Over the course of a few years, prices of cars start dropping until the point that is balanced (the cost consumer pays is just enough for pay for all the costs, and maybe a tiny bit more, to manufacture the next car).
The average new car in America is sold for 2.2% profit It sounds like we're already at the point that you are talking about.
> whoever has the best look/features will win since everyone will flock towards it (especially if the prices are equal).
Consumers are irrational. People buy Chevy Cruze's.
This is more of an autodetailing question, but there's a number of products which give "new car smell."
This interior cleaner spray definitely gives my car a dealer car smell. What you're smelling is a freshly cleaned car with a scent of whatever chemical cleaner they used. You'll have to use it weekly or every other week, along with vacuuming your car, and not bring food into the car.
Nothing like an engine swap/rebuild. It's a battery. No moving parts.
If the battery was replaced look at it as a bonus for you. Not that even 10 year old Prius' have a high battery failure rate. They just don't. I've seen a couple of failed batteries come in to my former dealership over three years and every vehicle had 180K miles or more in miles. One had 380K miles on it. The owner had a Pizza joint and it was their delivery vehicle.
For some peace of mind, check this article.
I mean, even Consumer Reports has the bottom 4 car brands for reliability (2017) as Dodge, Chrysler, Fiat, and Ram. Can't even make it up.
http://www.consumerreports.org/car-reliability/car-brands-reliability-how-they-stack-up/
> for some reason the 2002+ models are commanding a lot more than the Gen 3 & 4 Camry (92 - 96 & 97 - 01 models)
Likely the oil sludge debacle.
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/cars/car-parts-and-accessories/engine-sludge/index.htm
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2014/03/10-best-cars-to-last-200-000-miles/index.htm
http://www.clarkhoward.com/10-cars-that-will-almost-certa
To support what others have said.
I work for a Honda dealer and we service a lot of Accords over 200k and have two that are still kicking ass at 500k and 600k.
Plus the duramax has the highest resale value of any deisel in my market area. For you to say all GMs are crap is just ignorant. GM has a better product now than they ever have.
Not sure if you saw the recent headlines about VW recall. Not sure about this but the fix might hurt performance for the TDI version. http://www.marketwatch.com/story/epa-volkswagen-cheated-on-emissions-standards-2015-09-18?link=MW_home_latest_news
So they are not exactly fashionable (which I tried. I got some “comfortable”, cushioned, dressier shoes for work. Was warned by the older saleswoman that it was not a good idea. Ignored her advice, suffered the consequences), but I like the shoes I posted a link to below. They are extremely light and breathable af, you can wash them - all of which are super important to me being in FL - they hold up to the constant walking on hot pavement all day, and they’re cheap. I have like 6 pairs and wear them every day to work, aside from the occasional Saturday or Sunday.
I cannot stress enough how vital it is to have pants with pockets. It has severely limited what pants I can buy, and even the few I’ve found that I like and that fit well have front pockets that are literally as deep as my debit card is tall (not the long way!). And it sucks! One thing I just heard about that I plan on looking into is having pockets added to your pants. If I do go that route, I’ll try to remember to update you.
Shoes: https://www.amazon.com/konhill-Womens-Walking-Tennis-Shoes/dp/B07KG7GMGK?th=1&psc=1
I haven't seen a Honda tow package that includes a ball/hitch... I'd go with a universal one from Harbor Freight (hate if you will) or something like https://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpower-7039800-Versatile-Universal/dp/B009F59GV0 (overkill, if you don't plan on keeping it on all the time go with a cheaper painted model). Like others have said, too many options to be locked into just one regardless...
If you read/audiobook The Millionaire Next Door you'll learn the true wealthy people drive hondas and toyotas and keep their cars until they no longer work. You don't invest the majority of your worth in depreciating assets such as cars.
That's a helpful perspective, and I appreciate it. I'm seeing at least some evidence (from Consumer Reports, no less) that the worries about Prisususususus crashing in value or reliability after 8-10 years is overblown, but I'll definitely keep that in mind. I am planning on taking it to a mechanic to get everything looked over, including the electrical and battery.
A better term would be "riced". Do a search on riced Honda Civic's. Even if the outside looks normal make sure the engine, transmission, etc. haven't been heavily modifiedd.
I wonder more about your finances. Your credit score is pretty low, you have student loans, you haven't even gotten your first paycheck. Do you have a working car? If the Mazda costs $20,000, that's going to be around $23,000 with taxes and fees. Since you won't qualify for 0% APR with your credit score, you'll probably be paying around $450 a month for 5 years. That's a lot of money when you're just getting on your feet. Just realize that buying a new car is one of the biggest mistake new college graduates make.
If I were you I'd keep driving my car as long as possible, or take that $4000 and buy a used car with it that could easily last you a few years. Then when your credit is built up, you have most/all your loans paid off, and you have plenty in savings, buy a car and get 0% financing. It'll be cheaper to finance and you'll have avoided paying interest on your loans longer. Delay gratification for a couple of years and you'll save a lot of money over the long run. The allure of a new car is strong, and it's associated with making it big. But honestly, no one gives a shit what kind of car you drive anyway.
Yeah they sell pretty well. I have two customers waiting for an RS to come in. Yeah it's definitely overpriced. Not well designed, either. They did that Chevy thing again where they put a bunch of awesome tech on the car but the car itself isn't much to write home about. One thing I really do like is that they're bringing the 360 view and adaptive cruise control down to different trims instead of just the premier.
RS is slightly cheaper, but again it's 2 trims instead of just 1.
Nissan has a bigass test track near us that they use to put cars through their paces. They bought our first Blazer which was super decked out. AWD Premier with all the packages. MSRP'ed north of 50. I think the straightaway on this oval ended up being a little over a mile
The new Chevrolet Impala can be had fully loaded for that and apparently competes and destroys cars $20k out of its price range (Consumer Reports gave it a 95/100; or the third highest rating they have given). An Audi A4, Buick Lacrosse, Lincoln MKZ, Infiniti Q50(Or G37 since they are still making it as well), Lexus ES350, or the Toyota Avalon would all be good choices for mid-sized to full-sized cars depending on what you are looking for.
For SUVs the Buick Enclave, Lexus RX 350, Chevrolet Traverse, Lincoln MKC, Mazda CX-5, Acura RDX, Audi Q5, Volkswagen Tuareg, or the Dodge Durango would all be good picks.
Spend $6.95 for a one-month subscription to http://www.consumerreports.org
That site will give you a detailed breakdown of the reliability of any car from any year.
They are very reputable and have been around for decades. They are way more reliable than any broker or anonymous redditor.
Lots of places don't use truecar. Truecar is often misleading, leaving out options or factoring in things that the customer doesn't qualify for. Don't count on truecar, many dealers don't deal with them because they're a mess to deal with, and the dealers end up paying a big fee for the truecar lead, which means that cost has to be factored in somewhere. Truecar makes cars cost more in the end, because the fee has to be passed on to the consumer.
read this : https://www.trustpilot.com/review/truecar.com
http://dalepollak.com/2013/11/12/frontlines-truecar-experience/
The Mach E will come with a regular house plug and a 240 adapter. Do you have a garage thats close to your dryer? If you do, get this:
If you just want a low-tech alternative kind of ‘tire pressure warning system’ you could use tire pressure monitoring caps. They’re set for a specific pressure and show green if the pressure is above that, or red if below. Walk around the car and if the caps all show green, you’re good.
Specify the pressure when you order, make sure it’s a few PSI below the rated pressure written on the tire.
Huh, those ones are interesting! Is there perhaps a key-security code on a sticker in the glovebox or something? If so, it makes buying them reasonably easy.
I found this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32958727720.html which lets you buy by code. Otherwise, you might need to look at the pictures or find the one that matches.
Additionally, those ones are actually pretty easy to get off without damaging the wheel. They don't have 'pins' to lock themselves to the stud (like some do), it is just one that requires a special wrench. this means that getting a wrench around the outside that bites into it (like a properly sized EZ-Out) would likely work too.
ETA: If the outer ring moves (so an EZ out wouldn't work), you can drill 2 holes in the face (or dremel some holes) for a pin-wrench type deal. A wrench like this: https://www.amazon.com/Wrench-Socket-Drive-Strut-Repair/dp/B00ZYSY09U (though, obviously not that size).
A good mechanic should probably be able to remove all 4 reasonably inexpensively. I'd expect the dealer to do that for goodwill (not associated with a car dealer btw), but a shadetree could likely do that.
Yeah, the plan is this, he refers to them as 'the baby steps'. The Total Money Makeover is basically the full explanation.
1. Cut everything possible, until you can save $1000 cash. For some people this is even a tough step.
2. With your $1000 emergency fund in hand, order all of your debts smallest-to-largest regardless of interest rate. Cut your lifestyle to the absolute bone, and pile every dollar you can towards the first small debt until its gone. That frees a bit of your income to hammer against the next debt, and so on. The idea is to snowball and gain momentum so you have a 'bigger shovel' to hit the larger debts. Its also a motivation thing, by getting some small wins, it keeps people engaged in seeing it through. This is because people don't get into debt because of bad math, they get into debt because of bad choices and emotion. The chance of them actually getting out is more important than the different in interest rates and such.
3. With all consumer debt (except mortgage) gone, you should be able to quickly save 3-6mo expenses for your true emergency fund.
4. Begin investing 15% into retirement.
5. Begin college fund for kids if necessary.
6. While continuing 4 and 5, drop the hammer on paying off your mortgage.
7. You're now debt free, so max out all of your investments and build wealth very quickly.
Personally, i agree that only $1k cash to your name is pretty razor-thin. But then again, lots of people in this country have less than that in their checking account perpetually. You can see what I mean with the steps though. The Dave Ramsey plan is to debt what AA is to an alcoholic.
To build clientele you want to treat your customers right and then ask for referrals. Everyone hates buying a car so if their best friend says "hey, olat6983 over at Reddit Motorcars is phenomenal," they'll come see you AND they'll be more comfortable and pay more.
Learn the product as best you can and never lie. "I'm not sure but let me make a note of that and I'll find out for you," is the very best thing you can learn to say.
Buy Grant Cardone's books.
Buy "The Art of War."
Stay in touch with the people who buy from you and the people who would have bought but they had bad credit, no money, etc. The biggest mistake I've seen fresh salespeople make is they're fantastic and attentive and then they drop the person as soon as they drive off or they never follow up with people who just got new jobs, are improving their credit, just got promotions, etc etc etc.
To put it in perspective if you make a career of this and you stay in touch with your customers and always ask for referrals in 6 - 10 years you'll never have to get up from your desk, you'll sell 30 cars a month, you'll work the hours you want to work, and you'll make $100,000 a year.
Good luck!
I wouldn't spend $300 (here's an unknown amazon option for $79, as an example https://www.amazon.com/2016-2022-Mazda-Floor-All-Weather-Liners/dp/B09JKD56WH/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=mazda+cx9+floor+mats&qid=1669996354&sr=8-7&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc) but I put rubber mats in all my cars and put the cloth ones in the basement. The rubber ones are just better - they catch more stuff, you can just hose them off, no stains, etc.
Next time you have a customer you can’t trust to do the survey correctly:
1)make an email similar to their email
2)make sure the survey gets punched to this email
3)once you get the survey, use NordVPN (or whatever VPN app you use) and open the survey on DuckDuckGo privacy browser (extra layer of safety so you don’t get caught survey tampering lol)
4)complete survey (and take any screenshots of the actual questions and correct answer selected so you can show future clients how to correctly do survey)
5)???
6)Profit
Here's a nice Mercedes you should be able to finance:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/801811037058262
Here is sort of an example of what is available locally.
A car with front end damage, a bad ac IN TEXAS with junk in the car. I guess the problem locally is that I trust these people with cars as much as I trust copart to sell me a "good" car. The listings are few and far between and quite a few are from clear car flippers or people acting in the name of used car dealerships.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/795166241255290
A link to one of the funnier "sales" ive seen posted so far. A car that SHOULD be salvage and the guy wants 3k.
I'm going to go see this one after work
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3344017718950504/
I paid for a vehicle report for that one as well and the miles check out. Last year it had about 86000 and this year 96000. I checked several sites. I'm going to go and if it is in good shape I'm getting it. I feel like 96000 is nothing for a truck that size. What do you think?
Vin is 3B7HC13Y8TG148253
there are brake fluid test strips to tell you if the fluid is contaminated and needs flushed. I'd assume the test came back as 'not close to new'
http://www.consumerreports.org/cars- does decent work. There are also plenty of reviews on youtube to check out. Once you narrow it down (I don't know if you are looking at a coupe or a bus, under $5k or over a million bucks) see what is suggested on /r/whatcarshouldibuy
For Truecar, it does show you local pricing. All you need is the zip code and type of car. It will then show you a graph, Invoice, MSRP and where the market is. Scroll down but don't do the next 'contact a dealer' step.
> Having a repair shop won't help if they can't get parts.
Obviously, but you're missing the point: Having a dealer network won't help, either
> It may not fit, but used cars are often where dealerships make money. It's passing up a serious cash flow opportunity.
Trading off lower overhead.
> As Tesla tries to expand into mainstream car sales, they will need to carry inventory at dealerships because (a) People generally buy Chevys within 72 hours of starting the shopping process and (b) special orders [...] wash out rate for Chevys is fairly high - especially if not a niche model.
I reworded your argument a little. What you're saying makes sense, but you have a couple implicit assumptions.
(a) Right now there are almost 400,000 paid pre-orders for a Model 3. These customers (say a very conservative 50% of them who actually follow through) were sold without any inventory having to be carried by anyone. What about the other 1,000,000 people who will buy one? Will they act more like a Chevy buyer or a Tesla pre-order buyer? I'd bet the latter. I could be wrong.
(b) What's the wash out rate for a Tesla? What's the wash out rate for a Porsche? And how big a problem is a wash out when you sell one model with three trim levels and can't keep up with demand? Doesn't seem like much of a problem to me. But, I could be wrong.
> The problem is that it ties up a ton of capital.
Yes, but only if you need to carry inventory.
Those are 25 bucks on Amazon. 5000 percent markup!
At least be a civilized Caveman: https://keep.google.com/
I used to be an Evernote fan, but not so much anymore. You could certainly do worse.
Need to be reminded? Google Calendar is now my reminder list. Only have so much time in the day. When the day is full, doesn't do any good to be reminded of something else on that day. Block off a time to do the task. Use a different color for reminders so you know if you can juggle them around in between fixed appointments. You can link back to Google keep from within the calendar entry.
Don't make a CD player your main criteria when buying a new car. Just buy something like this
and put it in any car.
There's literally a book written by Klaus Schwab and the World Economic Forum that outlines The Plan
It's not a conspiracy theory if the people behind it tell you the plan, is it?
I believe yours was a 2022 cx-5 if I recall right?
Latest Navigation SD Card TD2K66EZ1, Compatible with Mazda 2021/2022 CX5 and 2021/2022 CX9, USA/Canada/Mexico Maps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09PJVC86X/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_51J44R1GR875SWR1WWDA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
How much mileage is on it? Is it sitting at your house or at a dealership? Who determined what it needs to get running again?
I just typed "2013 Ford Focus automatic transmission control module" into Google, and found units readily available on Amazon for around $240.
Probably quite a while. I had an 50A (or thereabouts) dryer plug installed in my garage, for a Level 2 charger. The 45e will only pull a max of 16A, but I wanted to future-proof, just in case I ever bought a full EV.
That was $100, and then the charger was another $400. I bought this one.. So, all-in, it was about $600 for a Level 2 charger.
With the Level 2, it takes 5-6 hours, because BMW only puts a 3.6 kW charger on its PHEVs. With Level 1 (which is what the standard charger is), I imagine it would take all day to charge
Perfect to polish your house with! Thank me later
Jesus, good response and proper interview questions, I wish I could upvote more than once. This is the link to the job, is it similar to what you do?
http://www.indeed.com/viewjob?from=appsharedroid&jk=098973c856769e02
My experience mostly lies in banking, over 4 years, so I'm guessing the negotiating piece fits in. I'll attach the link so you can see the job posting. http://www.indeed.com/viewjob?from=appsharedroid&jk=098973c856769e02
My comment was that you don't provide any information, just comments like don't buy it resale is horrible. Thus my trolling comment. Provide some facts to back up your argument, help people out and provide alternatives. If you think your brand is way better and you have a better alternative, then by all means tell the poster so, but back up your argument. We have all had sales training classes, and I don't know about you but I was taught to provide Why Buy's, not knock the competitor.
Links like this show that your particular brand used to be in the basement as well, but they have shown marked improvement in the last 5 years.
Much has Chrysler. I know not everything we make is perfect, no ones is. But I think we can all agree it has gotten to the point that almost every brand is pulling closer to even in reliability, and most comparisons are splitting hairs rather than showing earth shattering differences. Hell Chrysler, Kia, and Hyundai have vehicles that rank in the top of initial quality according to JD power. 5 years ago that would have been a real surprise.
Keep in mind. Some of the advice you will receive on here is biased towards dealers.
The PDI is pre delivery inspection. You do not need to pay for pre delivery inspection. They are paid by the manufacturer. But don't confuse his for freight. You need to pay freight/delivery charge but not for inspection. The manufacture website should tell you what the standard destination fee is.
Read this http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/2012/12/check-the-numbers/index.htm?loginMethod=auto
Edit : there are a bit of fees that I would be suspect of. You mention Canada so they be standard but look into your DMV website for fees that are normally charged as tax. You may find that some of the fees that the dealer labeled as a levy or a tax are not those at all.
It has become eminently clear after processing out loud with you that I have no idea what I want. Hoo boy.
What's your stance on Certified Pre-Owned cars? Worth it if the buyer reads the fine print?
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2015/06/are-certified-preowned-cars-worth-it/index.htm
I'm going to gun for that example car I linked for < $20k and see where things go
Thank you. I found this one which looks quite nice, except a bit on the high side for what I'd be willing to pay.
I also live about 2 hours away from them. I thought about calling tomorrow and saying "I'm ready to buy, if you'll give me 30 days to return the car (so I can get it checked out by my trusted mechanic) and sell it to me for 9k".
I don't expect them to let it go for 9k, but perhaps they would come down closer to 10, where I'd personally be much more comfortable. Thoughts?
here is one that i have found that seems really clean. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/293284978729018 Please, let me know what you think? my first impression, is it's a bit pricey for its model but then again it seems in mint condition.
I bought an older sports car that I had for a few years - same issue. Great car, loved it, driver's seat was either very worn out or it just didn't work for my back and body. I bought one of these off amazon: https://www.amazon.com/TISHIJIE-Memory-Lumbar-Support-Pillow/dp/B0854DRX4P/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2SZJ508VGV64S&keywords=car+lumbar+pillow&qid=1643034887&sprefix=car+lumbar+pillow%2Caps%2C86&sr=8-8
Game changer. I'd give it a shot because there's no real way out of your car and this is a $30 fix.
I had a similar problem with my current vehicle. I purchases a memory foam cushion on Amazon and it solved the problem for me. I linked the one I got below. I admit that I hate having to use it because it makes me feel like I'm an old lady who needs a cushion to see over the steering wheel but it's better than losing thousands by trading it in. Also, as someone else mentioned an upholstery shop may be able to make some changes to the back of the seat. I had a Hyundai years ago where the lumbar area was pressing into my lower back and causing me a ton of discomfort even when the lumbar setting was all the way in. The shaved down the lumbar area of the seat and after that it was super comfortable.
As /u/AGruber73 notes, the 1-year subscription to consumerreports.org is $30, though you might find a $20 for the first year deal. It's worth it. You're having a baby - you'll want to look up lots of stuff besides cars.
>I still think they aren't worth spending 2-3k on batteries every 5-7 years
The batteries are warrantied for 8 years (10 in places like California, in fact), and have been demonstrated to last the lifetime of the car. Consumer Reports' last compiled report on Prius battery failure rates puts the failure rate at about 5% after 12 years. Based on that, it's quite probable that the average Prius will not need to have its battery replaced over its life.
How is that a problem? If Tesla can address even 30% of the market, it's a big enough pond. How many new products or product categories are launched successfully while supporting < 10% of the total population? (Answer: Almost Most of them.)
More than 80% of the US population lives in urban areas.
There are some sensible, reasonable doubts about Tesla's long term viability. Yours is not one of them.
Coupons and sales expire. When you saw something was on sale two months on http://camelcamelcamel.com you're not going to expect Amazon to sell you the item from the lowest price.
You can request a price match if there's another one in your area though.
Had a quick look and found a decent fun one. Manual but can easily learn on this.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/205674633956556/
Had this exact same model I bought for $1000 last year but it had more rust. Very fun and fuel efficient.
Just Google'd it: https://www.slideshare.net/AlexandriaHyundai/2013-hyundai-genesis-coupe-brochure-virginia-hyundai-dealer
The only VISUAL Difference between R-Spec (lower model) and Track (higher model) is Aero wiper blades. It also has a Brembo braking system. The other differences will be hard to see.
Here is the link: I hope you enjoy the book and more importantly you change your mind about me. https://www.amazon.com/99-OBJECTIONS-But-Closing-Aint/dp/B09NGTKWBT/
Have a happy holiday!
This is a good grade safe product to take care of mold. You may be able to rent a fogger at a local hardware store. If your interested in the process I can expound. Essentially, you just run the fog thru the HVAC system…
This sales video from M-B is from the 80s, and it amazes me when I watch it how it holds up fairly well even today. It does a good job going over the nuts and bolts of the sales process:
This is a sales book that is getting old but still holds up as well. I always recommend it just for how well it covers the basics:
From Zero to Hero: How to Master the Art of SELLING CARS https://www.amazon.com/dp/1544941218/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DK2DYNHFSMYH7NW89RQY
> If you are trading in a vehicle, use KBB on Good or Fair condition only, your vehicle is not excellent, I don't care what you think.
So my car was hit by one of the worst hail storms ever to hit the US and I was never able to repair the hail damage (other than the windshields) back in 2012. It's all dented.
Something is wrong with the thermostat, after about 5 miles the engine temp is at max on the dash meter.
The tires were due to be replaced, like 2 years ago.
My dog pooped in the back seat. A friend puked on the carpet.
In other words... is there a level lower than good or fair? I don't think it's in excellent condition
Yup and most of the craigslist scams use fake cashiers checks since "everyone knows they cant bounce".
Shit even craigslist itself warns to never accept cashiers checks. Don't accept cashier/certified checks or money orders - banks cash fakes, then hold you responsible.
https://www.craigslist.org/about/scams
Talk to your bank, point out that most Nigerian scams involve certified cashier's checks, especially ones from people out of state. See if there's a way to cash it.
If I were the seller giving you the car, here are the ways that I would trust your payment. See if you can float either of these options. Otherwise, consider buying from a dealership, and calling it a day:
We meet at a local branch of your bank, and I watch your teller either draft the certified check (NOT personal), or hand over the cash.
We meet at a local branch of my bank with the full amount in cash, and my teller verifies that the bills aren't counterfeit.
You didn't search, clearly.
https://www.reddit.com/r/askcarsales/comments/kksmoo/wholesaling_units_at_us_auctions_as_canadian/
As to why people are buying in Canada, and selling in the US:
https://www.xe.com/currencyconverter/convert/?Amount=20%2C000&From=USD&To=CAD
Alternatively, there are hundreds of non-enterprising reasons that this could happen. Someone lives in both countries, and decided to upgrade/downgrade while they were here, for example.
i am interested as well. can't find anything wrong with it. the only downside i can see is that it's on the lower end of MPG.
the impreza is a top 10 pick for 2015 from the consumer report, so it can't be that bad right?
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/magazine/2015/04/consumer-reports-10-top-picks-of-2015/index.htm
Found a relevant answer on Quora
Basically, stop payment and issue another.
Also FTA, this seems prudent "And you can require the payee to sign a promise that they have not endorsed the check over to anybody else, and to give back the money if it turns out they have."
You wouldn't want the check to turn up and someone throw it into their account, and come back to you for another payment when it gets rejected.
you can buy them all day long here in Texas for 1/3 of what I've put in it so far. If you really want one you can get an amazing one for under 10k here! Here's one that is a great deal for example. And if you can watch youtube and use an electric screwdriver you totally can maintain these yourself! The parts are hilariously cheap if you don't car about "numbers-matching". For example, a whole motor with all the parts on it is under $1500. The brake pads are $40. Any hoses or wires, don't pay over $20. Just plan to take one afternoon every other month of daily driving to give it a look-over for leaks and replace anything worn.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/479475076141276/
I've went through pretty much every one on AT. The few that I was interested in I've reached out and have been corresponding via e-mail and also via phone. Just hard to get information via e-mail and a lot of non-responses.
I did use IFTTT to set craigslist alerts which has been awesome.
Thanks for the VIN info tool!
I did look at that particular vehicle already. Really trying to avoid vehicles in snow states if possible. I wish AT would show the state in the search results rather than just miles away. My criteria is too stringent I think. Will try and sit for the right one for a few more weeks, and then compromise more if needed. I think I just need to be patient :)
Amazon, auto zone, even Walmart may have it.
I like this kit it won’t be a waste because it’s useful even just keeping it clean in the future.
What do you think about this one? I am also considering getting this newer model instead. It is more money though. The maintenance on it looks solid from what the VIN number came up with
I was looking at the Consumer Reports review that says " No Android Auto or Apple CarPlay compatibility." I checked the model list here and it wasn't listed. I then started Googling and saw that Mazda was going to potentially update the 18s, but saw nothing about the 19s. That's why I came here - to try to get some clarification.
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I'll just stay in the safe side then and not go for that. How about this? Seems reasonable? Hyundai Elantra 2013
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What's a Jew Wrangler LOL? There's a joke in there somewhere.
For your sun faded plastics, get a product called Penetrol. It's a product painters use but us motorcycle owners have discovered it's wonderful for bringing back that black. It's only temporary and needs to be applied periodically but it does work. https://www.amazon.com/Penetrol-00415-0/dp/B000ZM3B86
Well, first of all, you are doing it wrong. Anyone with real money knows that you don't go to a dealership, you point at what you want, snap your fingers and get that shit delivered. Real money goes for something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/JL421-Badonkadonk-Land-Cruiser-Tank/dp/B00067F1CE/
Which, as you can see, is on an elite "invite only" client list to order. Venmo me $1,000 and I can *probably* get you on the list but it will be a challenge.
Door cups and door edge guards. Cheaper if you buy them in quantity. Easy to install.
>A fancy roof rack with installation is maybe a few hundred bucks at the very most.
Hell you can get roof racks that just strap too the top of your car for $80. Mine carries an entire kayak and surfboard so it should easily carry a snowboard.
If you like to read try reading David Halberstam's The Reckoning. It's a great book that parallels the Japanese & U.S. car markets during the 70s when Japan was trying to break into the U.S. market.
While Japan was concentrating on affordability, fuel efficiency, quality & reliability to attract customers, GM was more fixated on how to squeeze every last dollar out of the U.S. consumer. And quality & reliability was never a concern for GM.
After reading that book I never bought an American car again. And I still won't because a lot of what GM was doing decades ago is still happening now.
Sometimes. It is unlikely to hurt. BG is a well respected product. Basically sometimes oil burning is because someone skipped an oil change or used shit-tier oil, and it fouled up the rings. Check out the Amazon reviews. I've personally used it on a GM V6 and it took it from a quart-every-500 oil burner to only needing a quart between 5k changes. It doesn't work on everything but it's cheap and easy to do. Note: don't do it if your engine is massively sludged!
Never Split the Difference. It's technically negotiation book, but it can be applied to sales
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>Had to pull over on the interstate few days ago due to an alert saying high engine temp but the temperature gauge was stuck on cold.
Not that this fixes the source of the problem, but for a similar reason I bought a cheap OBD2 reader because one of it's features is it gives me real time temperature readings, instead of having to wait for a warning light to turn on, and by then it's pretty late.
https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP69033-Universal-Diagnostic-Protocol/dp/B07Z3HB7DR/ - the one I got is no longer available but it's close to this one. In addition to real-time car data, it can read and clear diagnostic codes. Of course, if you want to spend more, there are lots of great OBD2 readers that can connect to your phone via bluetooth and have lots of great features, but the $20 cheapo one works just fine too.
> Google is saying it could be that the sensors are malfunctioning
Something you might want to try at one of those car parts places (Kragen, Chief, Napa, etc) -- they will check your battery state of health for free. A weak 12v battery will cause all kinds of gremlins. Your battery is 5 years old - that's the expected lifespan of a 12v battery.
I think it’s a fair concern. But minor rust is no biggie. What you SHOULD do if you haven’t ready is buy a pressure washer and an under carrier washer: Mingle Pressure Washer Undercarriage Cleaner, Under Car Wash, 4000 PSI (13 Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K22DGRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GB3JBXKDX1AJAZZTC35N so you can wash the undercarriage of your cars as often as you could during and after winter
One of these works WONDERS. I bought one and my sales skyrocketed!
When I first got in the business I decided to read a book about it. I had a team that helped me grow but the book also helped me understand certain situations and what to expect or how to overcome objections. Stuff I wasn’t being trained for by my team or was expected to just learn as I went. Maybe it can help you too. The book I read.
> The touch screen has gone wonky
Same to us at about 70k miles. If you're a little bit handy and adventurous, it is a half-day fix to do yourself. Our dealership wanted something like $1200. Screw that.
I think there are a few after market screens out there, but we got this one.
https://www.amazon.com/OEM-Cadillac-TouchSense-Replacement-Display/dp/B07FCR1NQ1
Get the recommended trim removal kit too - that makes things much easier.
Make them use a ozone generator inside the car. And spray febreeze through the ac vents. This will 100 percent get the smoke out. I've done this before for the same reason
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JAP7388/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_eCb2FbJXNQEY6
As a suggestion, why not try the Accupark parking thing you can get on Amazon. It’s less than $8 and just takes a few seconds to install. It’s a little yellow plastic bump strip thing so you can roll in until the tire hits it and you’re good to go.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000EDUUIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_S6NRFbHW6713R
If I pasted the link right that’s what I’m talking about, seems simple and better than a tennis ball as far as looks and such. Just an idea!
One of the long-time posters in this group recently "published" a book about exactly this. Amazon wouldn't let him make it free, but it is if you have kindle unlimited. Good read.
Try amazon smile to donate to a charity of your choice automatically at no cost to you!
https://smile.amazon.com/Carter-Car-Dealership-Owner-Barnes/dp/B084DG175N/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=car+dealership+book&qid=1603071787&sr=8-16#immersive-view_1603071861121
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Ah well then you should be safe ordering them. I highly recommend something like this that has the sneaker sole. I wore a pair like that for about 5 months and they're great. I switched to a more traditional dress shoe from them last week and they're fine, but not as comfortable.
The salesman perhaps set the wrong expectation, if you bought a car that was fresh in inventory it was likely the car wash guys who smoke pot behind the building who was told to clean it. We like most dealers have two different detailers, the car wash bros and the professional guys who do repairs, ozone treatments, but they're only around in the mornings mon-fri and my guess is that's who they'll hook you up with when you go back. Most dealers will let you do paperwork on the vehicle and let you leave the car there until it's ready which may have been the better way to go, this secures the vehicle for you and gives you an out since you never drove it off the lot. I've done this a few times when I am confident whatever issue(dent, scratch, paint, detail) would be resolved and i've never had anyone walk when they came back to pick it up. Let them try to fix it again, if not get yourself one of these and an air compressor and you can get your own stains out of anything
CarPlay is a $160 retrofit.
https://www.amazon.com/Mazda-CarPlay-Retrofit-0000-8F-Z34-TK78-66-9U0C/dp/B07KRPSRKH
If that's your main motivation, keep it. (NB $160 for CarPlay is an absolute no-brainer - I have had CarPlay on my own car since 2017 and first tried it on a 2015 Impala - it rocks).
You say you love the car, so my instinct would be to keep it. That said, you really need to do the math on specific deals, rather than ask an abstract opinion. If the money is worth it to you, go for it - this is not r/frugal. And while I'd buy the newer shape now over yours, you already have your car - and it's still a great car.
> OEM
Would the OEM key have the Honda logo on the backside of it, or does it not necessarily mean that? I'm referring to this one I found online.