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They are called "safety torx" or "tamper proof torx".
Here is a set on Amazon.
Neiko 10073A Tamper Proof Torx Bit Socket Set, T8 – T60, S2 Steel | 13-Piece Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00078V7B6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JvfKBb8SEVS7Z
I have a similar issue (which is how I ended up here). I found this product on Amazon that you might be interested in trying out. Read the reviews:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074G2MRLL/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2KZ6XKRJD4PLN&psc=1
Better still, swap it out for military style universal clamps available at your local NAPA…. Much more reliable, versatile, and user-friendly and leaves the possibility for adding accessories without headaches in the future. replace both terminal clamps for $15 with a kit like this
I haven't seen them as rentable at auto parts stores. You are saving a bunch of money by doing the work yourself, so do yourself a favor by spending $20 on something that will make the job way easier.
O'Reilley Auto sells it for $36, RockAuto for $18, and it's $21.xx on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-22800-Wheel-Stud-Installer/dp/B000ETUD22
You have to twist them back and forth while pulling up. Wedge your index and middle finger and hook the wiring harness to grab it. Twist back and forth while exerting upwards pressure to pull it out. This will damage the clip but most likely bring it up whole. Automotive clips aren't really meant to be reusable but you "can" reuse them. They just won't hold the same tension.
There are two types used with harnesses: these with a flat bar that gets taped to the wiring loom.
Or.
There’s a tool for that
>Do I have any options of repair that is not completely replacing this
Not really, although there are Vinyl Repair Kits, I have never seen one of these "repairs" that did not leave noticeable evidence. Your best bet might be finding the parts in a junkyard, but even then it's doubtful you would find them looking as good and clean as your photos indicate.
I think the bigger problem is you havent removed the windshield trim. Start with that.
I dont see how you coulnt fit a t30 torx bit(or whatever that bolt head is) on a 1/4 universal joint to remove that. Looks like its above the glass. You could also invest in a low profile ratchet that is perfect for tight clearances like these. Something like this design https://www.amazon.in/MulWark-Profile-Ratchet-Quarters-Screwdriver/dp/B083PZLQVR
It is considered the rear bumper
If you want cheap and quick repair:
Bumper clips may be damaged. Just try banging it at the seam with your fist to snap the clips back into place. Should take care of the placement. Address the scratches with paint touch pen and/or a light polish. $20. Make sure to verify your paint viewing the sticker on the door jamb or entering your vin. Search google on how to do that.
If you want back to factory condition:
OEM part is 04718-T0A-A90ZZ OEM price is $200. Paint is going to be another $200 and needs to be done locally. Sometimes you can find paint shops with an ebay store who have pre painted parts.
bumper removal is covered here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xgjB5Vr7M4M. Installation is reverse. Bumper cover replacement will probably take a first timer about 1.5-2 hrs to do this. Though since the bumper is segmented and only the left side needs replaced. Time spent should be far less.
The best thing i've found to work in plastic like that are those hot staple things. It's more expensive to get into the kit with the tool and staples, but it works wonders. Melt the metal staples into the back side of the plastic. I've used it successfully on interior and exterior plastic.
Here's the one I bought but there are a ton of different options on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08MXWFYWB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>So the dealer finally called and said they had to replace the park switch and shifter and that an aftermarket DLC device I allegedly installed caused the issue. Well I haven't had anything installed in the truck and the only place it's ever been worked on was at that dealership. They insisted it wasn't a Chevy device and that they didn't install it and I'd have to pay them to remove it. I told them I'd need to file a police report and have my insurance company pay because someone had to have broken into my truck to install it. Shortly after I told them that, they called me back and said that because my truck was a dealer swap, this device must have been a tracker installed by the other dealer and they forgot to remove it when they traded the vehicle, that being the case they removed it, and returned the truck to me and left this sitting on the seat. It makes no sense to me that a dealer would install a hardwired tracker, and this just looks like a cable that plugs into something else. Anyone seen or heard of anything like this?
It looks similar to the second result. Was it perhaps put there after the car was built to track it when being shipped or being sold by the other car dealership? The way to remove the tracker would be described in that second link, though.
References:
https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Install-Tracker-wiring-instal/dp/B000KL4FJG
Car warmed up low idle happens randomly. Sounds like a go kart. Any movement in rpm the sound goes away. Can't get it to do it when I'm parked so I can't check under the hood. http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=350vs4o&s=8#.VUCBzc1pxuf (don't mind the squirrel)
Harbor freight jackstands are fine. Buy your torque wrench somewhere else. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092WYNQCV?pd\_rd\_i=B092WYNQCV&pf\_rd\_p=7672bfb7-93b0-4322-b745-2104db09c4df&pf\_rd\_r=GS6TPR66GARE2W0J5H5T&pd\_rd\_wg=SZ9vY&pd\_rd\_w=d5vVQ&pd\_rd\_r=389d258c-7c94-4f78-aabc-24329d3ce88d
>That or a solder splice with sleeves, but I am sooooo horrible with solder.
Unravel that loom to get more of the wire exposed and splice in a section of wire with heat shrink butt connectors, or butt connectors and heat shrink, whatever you can get. You can use lamp cord to extend the splice, don't worry about color matching the wire, just color match the splice. Wrap it back up with some quality electrical tape, not cheap stuff.
Of course solder is the best way, this will get going.
This is a perfect set for removing the trim pieces around the radio
I had this happen. I got a piece of plastic hose, from the auto store, that fit in the hole (glued) and then put the rubber hose on it. Hope this trick works for you. Possibly you could find a barbed hose union, to do the same.
https://www.amazon.com/Swordfish-60840-Straight-Connector-Assortment/dp/B09ZZKCBYV
It looks like you have enough surface area to use a double sided tape. Don't just use any old tape, 3M VHB is the way to go. This is what the use to stick molding to cars. Clean the area well, I suggest isopropyl alcohol. Line it up right the first go, because it's not coming back off.
https://www.amazon.com/Double-Mounting-Waterproof-Outdoor-Black%EF%BC%8C1/dp/B08T1HB5LJ/
It's leaking from both attachments of this hose. Searching the internet I found some different results.
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Air-Conditioner-HA-111975C/dp/B01LYIVWSN
Any idea if it's one of these? If it is, do I need any specific tools to replace it?
It's leaking from both attachments of this hose. Searching the internet I found some different results.
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Air-Conditioner-HA-111975C/dp/B01LYIVWSN
Any idea if it's one of these? If it is, do I need any specific tools to replace it?
Sounds like a weak battery. Batteries can still be weak and have low cranking amps even with a good voltage/light reading.
I would definitely get the battery load tested first before towing it to a mechanic. This is a link for a load tester, or take your battery to a parts store like AutoZone to get it tested for free.
If the battery reads good on everything, I would check for weak grounds.
If the issue is still not resolved, then mechanic.
Hi guys,
this is definitely a dumb question but with this lead (https://www.amazon.co.uk/XtremeAuto%C2%AE-NEGATIVE-Battery-Starter-Solenoid/dp/B01C8VFGSE/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=negative%2Bbattery%2Bcable&qid=1658338400&sr=8-3&th=1) which end do I connect to my car and which do I connect to my battery? Will I need to by any additionals nut/bolts etc. in addition to this lead?
So the terminal looks pretty standard and you might be able to find one at a parts store. The picture looks a little fuzzy but it looks like the negative wire bolts to the terminal but only you can see that for sure. Something like this should work provided the wire and battery terminal are able to be seperated.
Get a color matched spray $55+ or a touch up pen $15.
Alternatively you can just get a good tape line and paint it black.
Buy one of these air shims and keep it somewhere handy for next time this happens. Slip it in the door and pump it up so this doesnt happen to you or someone elses car again.
I saw a poor lady once locked out of her car at 5am when it was like 50 degrees out. There was 3 or 4 "good samaritans" trying to unlock her door. They were completely fucking up her door just like yours. Except it was worse because they were tearing up all the weatherstripping as well and the exterior moulding. I pulled up with one of these shims and a long flexible but ridgid bar i keep in the back of my car. I popped her car open in 3 or 4 mins. Almost looked like a PRO that you would think i pop cars for a living.
MZORANGE Car Dashboard Cover for Mazda 3 M3 BL 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 Dash Mat Cover Sun Cover Pad Carpet Anti-UV Anti-Slip Car Interior Pad https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07VRRNRW3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5TP6GNKZCKZGBYZ2C20T
This likely an easier and cheaper option.
Better than before, I wouldve gone with a satin finish.
Theres a spray paint called [SEM trim black](https://www.amazon.com/SEM-39143-Trim-Black-Aerosol/dp/B000EM019O?th=1) that works really well for stuff like this. It leaves a nice finish and lays down well. Theres also other similar products, i know dupli color makes a bumper and trim one but i like the SEM finish more.
See the arrow on it, that signifies that it's a check valve. You could use a union, but washer fluid in the line would gravitate back to the reservoir. Here's a link to a 'check valve', not your check valve. Look it up by your make and model, to be sure to get the correct line size.
https://www.amazon.com/Baosity-Plastic-Windshield-8532128020-85321-28020/dp/B07PFPYXML/
My old Halogen lowbeams burnt out and I wanted to replace them with LED headlights. I took out the old bulb and found out they are H7's, so I bought a pair of H7 Bulbs from Amazon. I followed the instructions included with the new bulbs and unfortunately they do not fit as intended. The main issue is the "Adapter" piece that fits between the "Bulb" and "Plug". the adapter allows the wire fastener to clip it in snugly. My new LED lights are not just a Bulb however, they are a conversion kit with a wire leading out of the unit. This makes it impossible to fit on the "Adapter" on these new bulbs, basically making them not fit snugly and move around quite a bit. Does anybody have any suggestions on how I can fix this? Am I doing something obviously wrong, or is this a case of Lexus just being "Different" for the sake of driving business to the dealership?
Any and all info is appreciated.
Honda Accord 2003 thru 2012 & Honda Crosstour 2020 thru 2014 Haynes Repair Manual: Honda Accord 2003 thru 2012 & Honda Crosstour 2010 thru 2014 https://www.amazon.com/dp/1620921812/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_CZM5E172FQC78S69DQEE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'm wondering if it might just be
Dorman 800-040 Universal Fuel Line Retainer - 1/2 In., 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004133BLC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_00Z07GF2MZS814G14BSD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 But I have no idea about what size it is. But it looks incredibly similar.
The small terminal wire on the starter tends to crack and get a loose connection. Many times it's from where the plastic coolant log on the driver side of the engine begins to have small leak and it drips right on that area of the starter. This is the wire terminal I'm talking about.
ALLMOST Starter solenoid pigtail connector harness Compatible with HYUNDAI SONATA, VARIOUS 2006-2018
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SWCY7FR/ref=cm _sw_r_cp_apan_i_WA5BFDJKTXJ14FS539MG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I was looking at this, but looking around they have pretty poor reviews
This is what I was looking at, but it seems like they don't work all that well
You could first check them yourself by eye to see if any physical damage is obvious. You could definitely replace it yourself as it's usually held in with just one bolt and some clips, and then the wire connector has to be unclipped. However, you won't know which one if damage is not obvious, without getting the car scanned, and even then, there might need to be a new one swapped in to help find it by deduction. Not sure what capabilities your cars scanner has, but without a proper scan tool all you can do is buy a new one and swap it in one corner at a time to see what happens. Your car might need the codes cleared after the swap. You can get your car scanned with a generic scanner for free at AutoZone. But, most cars need a higher level scanner to scan systems other then the engine itself. Worth a shot !
Here's what looks like the replacement sensor. Front Right Passenger Side ABS Speed Sensor - Compatible with 2012-2017 Toyota Camry 2.5L 3.5L https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088HJYBFK/
The cost at a dealer for OEM speed sensor is more like $280.
Hope this helps!
No, all three you listed are battery maintainers. You put the 12V side on your car battery, then plug the tender into electric outlet at home. They don't just charge your battery, but apply different regimes depending on battery voltage. If fully charged they don't push any voltage into the battery, but if the voltage drops, they provide trickle charge. The primary purpose is to keep a rarely used battery in healthy state, like a motorcycle battery during winter storage, for example.
Sounds like what you are really looking for is along these lines: http://www.costco.com/Lithium-Jump-Starter-and-Portable-Power-Bank.product.100230151.html
or this one: http://www.costco.com/CAT-1000-Peak-Amp-Battery-Jump-Starter-%7c-Power-Station-%7c-Compressor.product.100215309.html
I cannot endorse either one of those products, never owned one. My father had one with a lead-acid battery inside, but he did not keep a good eye on keeping it charged, so only half the time it was actually useful, and eventually the battery in it went bad. I am not a believer, but YMMV.
You need to change the radio. Any radio that has CarPlay will work. I would recommend getting only an aftermarket radio brand that Apple has listed on their CarPlay website here:
If the metal hasnt been pierced through and if you dont live in a cold climate area go for it. They do sell rubberized undercoating that comes in a $5 spray can if you want to opt for an easier application. The dap sealant tube thing will probably make a more visible uglier repair but should provide the same protection
If you do live in a cold climate make sure you prep and dry the area really well. Sometimes the undercoatings can fail and youll trap moisture/salt in between the metal and the undercoating. This will probably rust things worse than not having the undercoating at all.
I bought the assembly myself: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B075CBWHSL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
He changed the whole thing, could the problem be in the fuel tank or in the computer reading the sensor or something?
You could probably fix that yourself and very possible could go away completely. Try this, and PLEASE follow the instructions.
I had one of these for quite some time before it got swiped (long story). Easy to use, accurate and solid, I already ordered an identical replacement.
Although it's my go-to gauge, I also keep a mechanical back up gauge (cross-checked with the digital) in all my vehicles in case of battery or other failure. Obviously I like to be prepared.
What’s you opinion with this product? It’s made by Bondo to repair bumpers and is more of an epoxy
Bondo Bumper Repair Kit, 00280, .34 fl oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046VN8JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2TX7Z2SDG53PNP49GDGJ
Is this one good to jump-start my car? It's Toyota Prius 2011
I bought one of these a while ago because it's what a locksmith used when he was called for a car last. It's a pretty simple kit and there are plenty of other similar options too.
Bafx Products - For Android Only - Wireless Bluetooth Obd2 Scanner Diagnostic Code Reader & Scan Tool - Scan, Reset & Clear Car Check Engine Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_S8TJJW2WCDRAA2HHNSD2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Will read/erase codes. Depending on sensors can monitor basic things such as fuel level/mpg/coolant temp/tps/misfires/02 sensors etc. Will VARY by vehicle.
I have a 2011 Hyundai Accent and 91 Hyundai Excel. I want to get the Haynes book for them both but I found this one that includes both within that range.
Will the book be smaller or bigger since it has two models in it? I'm basically curious if I should get both individually?
Get this. Amazon has a lot of key removal tools.
Shove one of these between the outer ring and center screw. Lift the center screw while spinning.
Is this paint kit enough and clay bar kit enough? Looking to make it less noticeable, not perfect. Thanks!
If you plan on doing your own repairs, I'd highly recommend a more comprehensive set of tools. Even a basic "mechanics" tool kit will help you immensely. Here is one on Amazon that doesn't break the bank and will be far more useful than a broken ratcheting driver.
Crescent 180 Pc. Professional Tool Set in Tool Storage Case - CTK180 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BJCQ663/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_6XBXH65G833QQ2VCGD9G?psc=1
NEIKO 20733A Complete Disc Brake Caliper Wind Back Tool Kit | 12 Piece | Brake Pad Repair for Automotive | Fits All Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IB40L6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_AP5NNBXWX3AQ06REWSEY
Fairly certain actually
If the bolt is still exposed try to bite it as hard as you can with vice grips.
If the bolt is recessed Buy yourself a bolt extractor kit. I prefer s2 tool steel extractors over chrome vanadium. Whatever you choose make sure you use it with hand instead of power tools. Any deviation in the torque can result in the tool snapping inside of the bolt, then you will be fucked. You have some room in brand preference here but i still would not recommend cheapest option.
If you cant chase the threads with a new tap and properly secure the bolt then it will be time to use a heli coil. Dont buy cheap ebay/amazon ones. Find a local shop or buy name brand. A heli coil brand kit is usually around $35-45 seems pricey for what it is but they hold up well.
The timing cover can be replaced. There are plenty of rangers around junkyards, try using www.row52.com to locate a nearby yard or try craigslist/offerup/FB to see if someone is parting one out. If you cant find one then there always this option from Dorman
Its not the end of the world. This is probably, most likely, no fault of your own. Old cars are ~~rusty/brittle/dry rotted shitboxes~~ sweet little cars. Stuff like this happens all the time. Make sure to familiarize yourself with the torque specs for your timing cover. Dont know if they broke while coming out or going in. If you havent already take the extra time to remove the radiator. It will give you more room to work, is not that much more work and you dont have to worry about damaging it as well.
Make sure you buy one with a long shaft. The ones with short shaft such as the ones sold at HF will not work with vehicles that have recessed spark plugs.
You’d be better off following the KISS method and saving yourself from the perils of dealing with oem clamps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08XQ6S9Q4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BA745A3FW7JQY8GZG0KC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thank so much!!! I counted the points and there was 12 so would a 12 spline work? I've only been able to find one kind
They sell pigtails like these as well as connectors like these to repair that. Note these are just examples and may not be the exact piece you are looking for
I had luck using touch-up paint that has a brush in the lid, nail polish style. You can dab it into the hole created by the chip and not worry about overspray. Look for matching colors, but your black may be more generic. Note that all black paint has some blue, etc mixed in, matching black is the hardest job for body shops, so I hear.
Also may want to use something like this to convert the rust to black nitride first, which will not bubble and rust away like real rust. It chemically converts red rust to a stable finish, like on dark tools or guns. Michigan salty road approved!
You can get alot of information online, but if you want specific information in an easy to carry format, get a Haynes manual for your car.
https://www.amazon.com/Toyota-Corolla-Haynes-Repair-Manual/dp/1620922495
My Dad gave me one of these when I got my first car, and I've bought one for my daughters to keep in their cars. It has step by step instructions for easy and difficult repairs. It also has sections that go through possible causes of different sounds or other problems.
You can order it online, or walk into any Autozone and the probably have it behind the counter. This is a DIY'er best starting reference, IMHO.
What's this thing off of? My research shows this model was used on IHC Trucks in the 70's. If what I'm seeing is right, this kit should be the correct one, but don't quote me on it. https://www.amazon.com/Walker-Products-15668A-Carburetor-Kit/dp/B000CLSRU2
Those are both on my Amazon wish list (I'm pretty sure hubby just ordered the set yesterday, but I'll act surprised, lol), I picked the ones in the blue case that aren't so deep, but otherwise exactly the same. I was just thinking about if we needed to use them somewhere with less room, but for a strut bolt, those deep well ones are probably best because it can grip it even better. Do you have a long breaker bar so you can get some good leverage? The only other tool like that I have on my list is this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07115JZW9/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_505xDbSY7TW6V
but hubby has been doing this for a long time and he says these don't work very well usually, especially not for stuff like a strut. My dad really likes these though, but he doesn't do the level of work that my husband does/has done over the past 20+ years. On the up side, it's cheap, so if it doesn't work, you're not out much and can maybe use it later on for something else. Good luck and I hope this helps! Let me know what you think of those sockets since you'll be trying them before I get the chance! (-:
Aftermarket options are available on Amazon. For example:
CarLights360: Fits 2007 2008 2009 MAZDA 3 Fog Light Assembly Passenger Side w/Bulbs - Replacement for MA2593112 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PG43Y9L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZcVEDb9MVNYR9
Or maybe this: CarLights360: Fits 2007 2008 2009 MAZDA 3 Fog Light Assembly Driver Side w/Bulbs - (CAPA Certified) Replacement for MA2592115 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PH8LBS9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7eVEDbDCFE920
Another option is to remove the light assemblies. The car isn’t required to have fog lights.
Not the answer you're looking for but short of rewiring the cig plug they selladapters like this with independent on off switches.
depends on what the code or fault was. there are some DTCs (fault codes) that will set right away, such as electrical voltage high or low. others require certain monitoring conditions to be met, and they may have to set on consecutive 'trips'. Once the code has set, it can automatically clear itself if either the monitors run again without the fault condition being detected or so many warmup cycles without the fault conditions present. depends on the fault.
That being said, you may be able to find a replacement o2 sensor flange and have an exhaust system shop remove the old one and weld in a new one. An example of the flange is here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JYZ9Z1G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2NMBIZOMZLC5C&psc=1
you would have to verify what the correct flange is for your vehicle, if you choose to go that route.
What's behind the broken bolt? Can you drill it out and use a bolt with a nut, or tap it to larger size? It also looks like you could just use a Tie Down Strap, wrapped around the battery in the tray. https://www.amazon.com/Lashing-Adjustable-Tie-Down-Motorcycle-Luggage/dp/B07JRG7LJV/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1GNIJEF6FRDKN&dchild=1&keywords=tie+down+strap&qid=1598564229&sprefix=tie+down+%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-6
I would get it repaired, the glass IIRC is layered and with a hole could impact the integrity of the glass to protect you.
To keep the car legal while you're waiting for the repair. There is a mirror that attaches to the pillars of the windshield which might work before it's repaired. It's usually called a wink mirror.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000CPIH1C/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_P0ldFb6BVN7CN
Harbor freight tools are just fine, if you know what to look for as far as quality. Personally, I picked my coolant system pressure tester from Amazon. It was a fairly cheap kit, something like $30. The hand pump it came with sucked, but I use the fittings, which are great quality, with compressed air and a regulator w/ a gauge. Just make sure you do not over pressurize the system, obviously.
If I had to guess, since the kit is buried away at the moment, I think it's an astro ai? I could very likely be wrong but it is a decent brand. I didn't care about the hand pump because I bought it to use with compressed air.
I would highly recommend using compressed air because you can literally set it and forget it. It will hold steady pressure on the system indefinitely and you can make small adjustments as needed.
Edit: Just went and looked it up, I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003V9L05G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JdjAFbF62TQM4
Already found it on Amazon. It’s pricey but I won’t need to do this ever again.
Recochem OEM 86-174BOEM Blue Premium Antifreeze Concentrate Extended Life BLUE, 1 gallon, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U1OOR72/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DsclFbVMB8FNR
Oh boy! Slap your hand... I’m waiting for the first time my 16 year old does something like this...
It’s not an expensive fix, if you’re at all handy. If you can DIY, you can order a new aftermarket mirror from Amazon: JP Auto Side Door View Mirror Compatible With Toyota Sienna 2011 2012 2013 Power Operated Heated Folding Passenger Right Side.
It’ll be about $60 with tax. The hardest part is that you have to remove the inside door panel (the “door card” as it’s known in the trade), so you can access the bolts holding on the (remains of) the mirror from the inside. The trim is held in place by cleverly hidden screws and bolts, and a series of plastic snaps running around its perimeter. In addition to run of the mill hand tools (screwdrivers, crescent wrench, etc.) you’ll want a tool kit for removing this trim without damaging it, or the car door itself. Conveniently, these kits are also on Amazon. As an example, here’s a GOOACC 5PCS Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit No-Scratch Pry Tool Kit for Car Door Clip Panel & Audio Dashboard Dismantle -5PCS.
If DIY isn’t an option, any remotely competent repair shop should be able to hook you up, charging maybe an hour’s labor. It’s certainly cheap enough that I wouldn’t bother getting insurance involved.
Replace the bulb. It’s an extremely easy replacement. It should be a 9003 bulb (single bulb, dual filament)
It’s also a good idea to replace both at the same time. The other one is likely right behind it.
Just pull off the electrical connector, rubber dust cover and unhook the wire retainer. You can pull the bulb right out, it’s just sitting there. Be extremely careful to insert the new bulb without touching the glass with your hands or scratching the glass when installing. Make sure it’s sitting in the slot correctly, relatch the retainer, reinstall the rubber dust/moisture cover, and plug in the new bulb.
Here’s a link directly to the bulbs you’ll want on amazon Philips 9003B1 Standard Halogen Headlight Bulb,1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CQAU2I6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iUIPEbVQT4DVW
Much cheaper than getting them in a parts store
You do not need to buy the entire battery cable assembly. What you’re seeing there is, essentially, an adaptor that turns the normal car battery terminal into a marine battery terminal. The black plastic thing is the master fuse for the battery, which is, in turn, fastened the marine terminal via the green nut in the pic.
A new automotive to marine battery terminal will get you back up and running. Wallyworld can hook you up for less than $5.
Amazon can hook you up with the Genuine Hyundai 37260-2E100 Positive Battery Terminal for a few bucks more.
For the Macgyver solution, to tide you over till you get the new part, drive a screw or nail in there, in between the car’s existing terminal and the battery terminal, to tighten it up.
If paying out of pocket, throw an aftermarket light onto it. They’re $172 on Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L5GWLNW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RTGpEbE26P82A). The bumper will likely snap back into place. The car’s 8 years old. I bet it has over 100k on the clock. That’s what I’d do if it were my car. Getting it to look pristine is where the real cost will come in, and you’ll never get that out-of-pocket cost back out of the car.
I bought this tester on Amazon and it runs battery related tests with your car in and off. The last time my car wouldn’t start it told me the voltage and state of health of battery we OK but when I ran the test where I start the car it said the cranking power was too low. I replaced the battery and things are OK now.
Car Battery Tester,TT TOPDON AB101 Automotive Battery Load Tester on Cranking System，Charging System and Battery System with 100-2000 CCA for 12V Car and Light Truck https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0769JZK38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JMJhEbFYV5KDP
Well then, here's what a sensor costs.
You would double that price for a shop markup, installation would be perhaps an hour. There are also more than one and I don't know which you need or which this one is.
Here is what it should be according to "book rate"
https://repairpal.com/estimator/honda/accord/oxygen-sensor-replacement-cost
And just FYI, a bad O2 sensor is a long term issue. It will slowly kill your catalytic convertor or cause engine build up, but it's perfectly driveable for perhaps 1000-150,000 miles in this condition. Probably consumes more fuel too. Are you having any issues other than this light?
Many people will say that it will cost a lot, but they aren’t aware of how to repair it. They want to charge you for the whole sensor. However, mechanics have kits that allow them to drill that part off and replace it, all without actually even removing the tire. It will be cheaper.
Edit: here’s the tool they use. https://www.amazon.com/Ken-Tool-29975-TPMS-Stem-Repair/dp/B01HOXQ14Y
Weird. The shops near you must not work on GM products very often. GM vehicles, 2011 and newer, all require use of a relearn tool to program new sensors. Relearn tools compatible with the “official” GM unit (and indistinguishable from it, save branding) sell on eBay and Amazon for less than $15. I bought this one to reprogram my sensors after the dealer forgot to relearn after rotating the tires. It was quicker, more convenient, and cheaper (in terms of the value of my time) than going back and making them fix it.
The “official” tool is available from http://www.gmtoolsandequipment.com or call 1-800-GM TOOLS (1-800-468-6657). I’m sure the dealer parts counter could get it also.
Something like this. J-B Weld 50132 PlasticWeld Quick-Setting Epoxy Syringe - Translucent Yellow - 25 ml
Rough up the plastic so it sticks better. Also drill holes through the ends of the crack
I wouldn't make the cables any smaller, I'd try to find a terminal style that fits the cable. Copper wire is very expensive and new terminals are like $5 and easy to change.
With regards to stacking, I don't like doing that. I prefer to crimp a lug to the end of the cable and attach those to the terminals, similar to this: (https://www.amazon.com/Military-Spec-Battery-Terminal-Post/dp/B00X36RILW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=battery+terminals&qid=1558971029&s=gateway&sr=8-4)
You can also find terminals that accept multiple cables if you just want to poke them in and crimp them down.
At the end of the day, don't overthink it. You want a good connection between the battery post, the terminal, and the cable. There are a few ways to make this happen, and if you get it wrong, the car won't start :D
Good luck!
The cap is $28 dollars.
What you need is a whole mirror assembly, which is a combination of the part you have cracked (unlisted) and parts 3,4,5. That runs anywhere from $150-300, depending on your trim level.
Bluetooth! I've never thought of that and I am still burning CDs LOL. I briefly search bluetooth radio control board for my car model, and found this. I'm also seeing other cheaper options, are these radio thing generally compatible to any car? Or are they model specific?
I'm not sure how it is on your car those are often held together by these plastic trim fasteners:
They just snap on. Other times they are held by screws. Research your car or look at your other wheel wells and see how they are fastened. Some use screws. If the holes are plastic you could use epoxy to fix the tares. Otherwise if there is a good spot to do so use a couple of self tapping screws to fasten them back.
Quick question: If I ordered this (same headlight that fits my vehicle type), would it solve my problem? https://www.amazon.com/Evan-Fischer-EVA13572031188-Headlight-Assembly-Passenger/dp/B009DJLW24/ref=pd_cart_crc_cart_2_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B009DJLW24&pd_rd_r=JQ5D41WVE8YEF4FPCRG5&pd_rd_w=bCJCL&pd_rd_wg=znrfB&pf_rd_i=cart-pag...
The glass is super dirty and hard to see through as is, so a brand new one would be great. I just wonder if it would contain all the wiring I'd need. Thanks!
Also known as the Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool..
The power steering pump is actually one of the easier do it your self fixes for your car. Watch some youtube videos, make sure you find proper torque specs for the bolts.
Im coming up with part BKSOE4 Does that have the part youre looking for?
You might also want to give oreilly auto a call, if you have one near you. They have always had the most complete brake hardware kits when i was looking for them.
Sure, carb cleaner might work. It might not and cause more issues. Just buy this:
great idea. something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Disconnect-Knife-Switch-Terminal/dp/B06XD9344Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1503852609&sr=8-4&keywords=car+battery+knife+switch
For now (without this kit), I should only remove the negative (black) cable from the battery, while keeping the positive (red) attached?
Where is it leaking from? The pressure hose or the pump itself?
PS leaks are fairly affordable and straightforward to fix, so rather than trying to "divert the leak", you're better off fixing it. PS fluid is flammable, so you run the risk of it splashing on the exhaust manifold and catching fire.
You should be able to find both the pump & PS hose at a junkyard for under $100. Simple hand tools to replace.
If it's a minor leak, you could try your luck with Lucas PS stop leak. It's about one of the only "stop leak" products that actually works.
/u/PARKOUR_zombie is correct. I'd like to add I'm no electronic Wozniak but I believe you would need to build a simple voltage divider on the trigger to the transistor.
You also may need.to use the transistors output to trigger a standard relay. Depending on the transistor you use is rated for.
I believe your current is to low for any ssr. But I would strongly consider a pre built relay board either by itself or tO drove a larger relay. something like this would work. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LWX9PPA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_x0Inzb18WJWX4. Or an optocoupler such as this XINY DC 05V 1-Channel 30A Relay Module Optocoupler Isolation High / Low Level Trigger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTZZBXW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_s5InzbRR83X3B
they are starting points for research anyWays. You may want to check out /r/askelectronics as well
This is what I use because it was recommended on e46fanatics forum, which is a mecca for e46 series BMW owners. The Veepeak is a cheap OBDII adapter, and OBDFusion is a program you will not regret buying. OBDFusion will read CEL codes, but it also has logging functionality to help analyze driveabilty problems.
I am strongly against standalone OBDII readers because of their high cost and crappy interface. I bought one at HarborFreight, which was handy for reading CEL codes, and thought it was the shiznit, until I tried the BT reader with Android phone. It is so much more convenient to use the smart phone that's already in your pocket. I haven't touched the standalone unit since I bought OBDFusion with BT adaptor. If you have an iPhone, you will need the WiFi adapter, not bluetooth.
I paid for this program twice, one time on Android, and then again for iOS version when I changed phones. It is still the best bang for your buck, even when paying for both versions.
https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Scanner-Adapter-Diagnostic-Trouble/dp/B00WPW6BAE
https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Harness-Sorento-wiring-installation/dp/B000KL50TA
as others have mentioned, you need to splice whatever connector harness comes with the new radio to the wiring harness linked above. The best way to do this is to individually solder each connection and insulate with heat shrinkable tubing, the second best way is with some 'butt' connectors and a crimping tool.
Where is the dent on the car? I would try to get behind it and bang it out with a hammer a dolly, something like this https://www.amazon.com/Hammer-Dolly-Auto-Body-Repair/dp/B0002ZHBA0
If you can't get behind it, stud gun and slide hammer. Looks they can be gotten at harbor freight for around 100 bucks... only downside to this is the paint has to be removed for it work, then you have to grind where the studs were, then do any remaining body work (plastic/skim coat) and repaint.. but that kinda defeats the purpose of paintless.
Those glue type I dint have much experience with honestly. I've never tried to use one, typically I only see the aftermath when they fail to do what they say so I'm kinda biased.
You can actually buy lengths of the factory hose on Amazon or ebay and cut them to fit. The rubber ends just pull off and can be reused.
I have an Android set up for under $20. If you have Apple, the prices for hardware and software will be slightly higher.
This is the Bluetooth tool I am using, only $12: http://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Scanner-Automotive-Diagnostic/dp/B011NSX27A
You can use TorqueLite to read the codes, but for only $6 you can get OBDFusion. It can read the codes, plus it can log a bunch of parameters as you are driving. https://www.obdsoftware.net/software/obdfusion
I got these based on recommendation from a guru on a BMW forum. When people experience driveability issues he requests logs, and then can provide advise on whether you have issues with O2 sensors, fuel pressure, or vacuum leaks. You could spend more money on diagnostic tools, but I have not felt the need to upgrade my set up yet.
Looks like the brand is MB wheels, the model being: seven x. It is the only seven spoke wheel available in the black/machined finish.
http://www.amazon.com/MB-Wheels-Seven-Machined-4x100mm/dp/B003SLEX88
It is an older item therefore discontinued. Your best bet is to order online or lookup an MB wheels retailer locally and ask over the phone.
A single wheel is going to set you back around $120-$150.
>The first question is does your heater work?
Yep, I personally think nicely, but have noticed it sometimes takes a while to warm up, but once warm it's nice and toasty.
>Does the car come up to operating temperature pretty quickly (temp gauge in the middle)?
I have a blue light and that's it...haha, I want to say I believe so, but I really don't know the answer to that.
I'll have to see if I have access to a scan tool. I have access to one that is similar to this: http://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-427201-OBDLink-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B00H9S71LW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1453314297&sr=1-1&keywords=obdlink but it doesn't consistently connect to my phone.
Thanks for the pointers
The window regulator broke. You should be able to work the glass up until you can see two clips holding the glass to the regulator. Pull them out with a screwdriver. After that, you should be able to jog the entire assembly up and down to get it out of the door. The regulator will bolt onto the back of the assembly.
http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-741-823-Replacement-Regulator-Chrysler/dp/B000E347LQ
1) Does the heat work? Does the heater blow hot air? If not, thermostat is more than likely stuck closed. Would cause overheating. Replace thermostat if no heat at heater.
2) Some cars are really, really hard to "burp". You need this to do it properly. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447432225&sr=8-1&keywords=Coolant+bleeder
You basically attach it, fill it up, run the car, put your heater settings to HOT but leave the fan off and run the car until the radiator fan comes on. You'll need to rev the motor a bunch of times and watch for air popping back up. Also doesn't hurt to jack up the front end a little. Tires still on the ground. Make sure there is coolant in the reservoir. Or you let it cool down with the bleeder still attached. But no necessary.
3) Look for oily residue in the neck of the radiator or on the inside of the radiator cap. If there is oily residue see #4 below.
4) Worst case if this doesn't work is there is a head gasket leak or intake manifold leak. A head gasket leak will cause super heated gases to hit the coolant passages and cause overheating. My Suburban had this happen with the intake manifold gaskets failing causing overheating.
If you can afford it, take it to a dealer. It's usually only $150 or so to diagnose the problem. Then if you want to fix it yourself, that's an option.
Good luck!