What are /r/coolermaster's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

Get a usb-argb controller or change the fan from argb to a rgb one, which I wouldn’t do.

Cooler Master ARGB LED Controller with 4 x 3-Pin Ports - Multiple Colour Effects, Thermal Detection Mode, 4-Pin RGB Device Compatible https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z7WLWD5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_TTKDH1Q1N25CAVV31506

Or

Cooler Master Addressable RGB Fan Controller with 6 Preset Modes, 7 Colors,  Thermal Detection Mode for Fans and Air Cooler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H241TFT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_HR2CXMNN3MRDHZN44SAP

Just wanted to make sure this is a Pro S with RGB lighting. If so, you need to use a program to unpack the .rar file. I usually use this: https://www.7-zip.org/

Once you have 7-zip installed you can use it to open the .rar file which will have the setup program inside. Hope that helps.

That can't be done with the hardware itself. But luckily there are 3rd party tools available that allow you to do so, such as G-Hotkey and Auto-Hotkey.

Thank you so much for that detailed response! After testing the controller, I found that my fan RGB is dysfunctional. Sadly, it appears as though I'm going to have to purchase new ones... I found replacement fans on amazon and was hoping you could take a look. They'd be compatible correct? Would I be getting the best bank for my buck? I also discovered this RGB cable which I thought could be a solution for connecting the fans to my motherboard. Would these purchases be viable? I really appreciate all your help!

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-NEON-Digital-RGB-Strip-PH-NELEDKT_M1/dp/B07XLPH8WW/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=phanteks+neon&qid=1608431866&s=movies-tv&sr=1-1 I'm using 1x1m and 2x400m.

So did I get the wrong product from Amazon then? The product says ARGB. Or is there something I am missing? This is what I ordered. https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-SickleFlow-Individually-Customizable/dp/B086HKD42G/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=cooler+master+sickleflow+120&qid=1607794722&s=electronics&sprefix=cooler+master+sickle&sr=1-4

Amazon.com: Asiahorse Matrix-White 58 Addressable RGB LEDs 240MM All-in-One Square Frame Integrated Fan with MB Sync/Analog Controller, Integrated PWM Control Fan for Computer Case and Liquid Cooling System: Industrial & Scientific

and this for rad fans

Amazon.com: DEEPCOOL Captain 240 RGB V2, AIO Liquid CPU Cooler, Anti-Leak Technology Inside, Sync RGB Waterblock and Fans with Cable Controller or MB with 12V 4-pin RGB Header, TR4/AM4 Supported, 3-Year Warranty: Computers & Accessories

added white coverings over the hose

Hi! Here are the answers to your questions in numerical order:

1. The fans are RGB, not ARGB. You can verify this by looking at the RGB cable from the fans. If it's 3 pin, it's ARGB. If it's 4 pin, it's RGB.
2. Nope. Due to the different voltage requirements, you can cause some issues with your lights if you plug the fans into the ARGB hub.
3. You can connect all the fans to one single port if you use a splitter. Cooler Master sells one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Splitter-Compatibility-Radiators/dp/B0719QY63M
4. You don't need to buy a second RGB controller, as they're all the same, with no motherboard output.
5. The CPU block is RGB, and yes, you will still have to plug the RGB line from the block to your motherboard's RGB header even if you swap your fans.

Hope this answered your questions.

(Edit: spelling)

Sorry no one has replied but hope this helps, these are the ones I put in my build and they look pretty damn close Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 140... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NY2DQT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

My build is a C700M and I replaced the stock fans with the RGBs listed above and I cool my Ryzen 3950x with the 360MLR, works great even with an overclock to 4.3Ghz

I just ordered one from Amazon Japan, shipped to Canada. Can't wait to fit my i9 13900KF and 4090 into this. I even got the new Asrock Z790 LiveMixer to match the case's purplish accents. You better hurry because there's only a few left.

Here's the link:

https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/gp/product/B0BJP5XTD9/ref=ox\\\_sc\\\_act\\\_title\\\_1?smid=AN1VRQENFRJN5&psc=1

It's a motherboard limitation. The ARGB headers only handle up to three fans each. You can add a powered hub to allow more though, something like this one from Phanteks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BT8JXSG

You can always get one of these internal USB HUBS to connect more USB 2.0 devices to a single internal port on the motherboard: https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Internal-USB-Hub-AC-IUSBH-M3-4/dp/B08L8VJS3Z?th=1

Hey, thank you. I initially had a red and white led set up, but when I put the white cables in, I realised the static white just looked so clean.

I went with these

EZDIY-FAB White Moonlight 120mm... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08LKVPY74?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

They were not top teir ones. But with time I will hopefully upgrade them to better quality if needs be. But right now they are amazing and keeping the air flow super cool!

Awesome! Yeah I had them going directly into the headers on my mobo, but MasterPlus doesn't pick them up :( So I've ordered the ARGB led controller here:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07Z7WLWD5/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o00\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm using the argb controller that came with the cpu cooler.

This one: https://imgur.com/Wl7JM46

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(Also I have 6 of this fans "https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B085ZZKZPX/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1")

So I think the problem might be how the fans are linked up, it could be that the connectors are loose but a bit more likely that they need to be daisy chained together.. It'd would be a good idea to check them.

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Another option would be to get an extra command box and the only other thing I can think off is to buy some new fans which granted is not ideal and I hope you get them sorted but if you are left with no option Corsair Fans are really good and I use these in my build with out any issues:

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https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07Z9SW756/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They come with a Lighting Core Node if you buy the 3 pack and it can controll up to 6 RGB fans colour properties.. But since you have 9 fans you would need to get a Corsair iCUE COMMANDER CORE XT to go along with it plus a Fan Splitter.

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Obviously all of that is not cheap at at all so I'll keep at it and let you tomorrow at some point what I have found :)

Bump.

Per looks like someone at Cooler Master posted on this Amazon page that the monitor is set for an "early September" release.

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-GP27-FUS-27-Tech-IPS-FreeSync-160Hz-1ms-Adjustment/dp/B09Z6HV9LF

All of that is terrible advice. Listen, I run the VXR techware with 6 case fans and an AIO (for a total of 9 Coolermaster Mf120 Duo Ring aRGB fans equaling 4.5 amps of power). Your lights are freaking out because you are over max amperage for the aRGB header on your motherboard which is 3.0 amps. With your lighting I would guess that you are running 3.3 to 4.5 Amps.

SO, whats the solution this?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T58RVZ7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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This my fine feathered is what you need. What it is is a hub that is powered by your power supply via a Sata cable. What you need to do is you need to:

​

1. Turn off computer
2. Turn off power supply switch
3. Unplug power supply from wall
4. So you need to have ONE fan that comes from the MOBO header to receive the signal from Aura Sync/ Fusion etc (whatever lighting software is on your mobo)
5. You now need to daisy chain 3 fans together with the one that is connected to the motherboard. The LAST female plugin (Holes not Pins) needs to go to the hub
6. Daisy chain your other group of fans together. Plug in the LAST female connector to the hub.
7. Reverse the process of steps 1 to 3
8. Turn on and enjoy

Source

I found it on Amazon back in December!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B097Q9DB5G

I paid $149 for it, don't buy from that scalping third-party seller that has it now for $235.99.

You can set a CamelCamelCamel alert for when the price goes below, say, $185.

Gotta bump the price up a bit because prices to import PSU's have gone up in the last 6 months.

You would need to get a fan splitter, like this one. Then you just need to take the single end and attach it to a PWM point on your motherboard. =]

The bigger challenge would be the type of fans you can use to populate the slots since depending on your GPU dimensions as regular 25mm deep fans might not fit. =]

This is about as close as I could find to a fan that might work. Most 120mm fans are 0.2-0.4 amps this was a 0.5amp 12v fan. Which is why you have to give it a push to get it started. https://www.amazon.com/SXDOOL-135X135X25mm-Brushless-Cooling-Powerful/dp/B08DR7RCNT/ref=sr\_1\_1\_sspa?crid=3I85OX2XH6OPI&keywords=135mm+12v+0.5A+fan&qid=1649790159&sprefix=135mm+12v+0.5a+fan%2Caps%2C47&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&s...

I have the same fans and this controller. It's basically a way to take the one available ARGB (JRAINBOW) motherboard header (3 pin) and split it to 10 devices. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B09CH13K2M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Look what I found!

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Mid-Tower-Lighting-Rotatable/dp/B09J5CRF7S/ref=sr\_1\_1?crid=FZSPJUL5DGIP&keywords=cooler+master+haf+500&qid=1647271159&sprefix=cooler+master+haf+50%2Caps%2C197&sr=8-1

If you're in the US, you can pre-order it on Amazon for $119. Release date is March 29. That price might change though—hopefully lower like CM's $99 MSRP.

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Wireless-Mechanical-Connectivity/dp/B09SVHNNFJ/ref=sr\_1\_1?crid=27Y3MQYYWVQ2S&keywords=ck721&qid=1646790260&sprefix=ck72%2Caps%2C125&sr=8-1&th=1

The can be purchased online. I had to replace mine recently as mine had gotten a bit slick and the adhesive was gone on some of the corners from constant use for the last 18 months since I work from home. Here is the link on Amazon for new ones. Cooler Master Mouse Grip Tape MM720 Black, Made of Anti-Slip Material with Hairline Texture https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08WHXBC6Z/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_7PYGF5X37W00QX8X8QJZ

I fixed my issue by replacing the mouse cable. I replaced it with Glorious Ascended Cable for 7 bux. The only thing you have to do to make it fit is trim the stress relief with a pair of scissors.

To bypass the locking mechanism you need to buy a slim headed 3.5mm cable. For example UGREEN

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08M8ZMZ44/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Or another cable of similar looks.

I think this kit can be compatible with coolermaster liquid water coolers https://www.amazon.com/Mounting-ID-COOLING-PINKFLOW-AURAFLOW-FROSTFLOW/dp/B09HBSYHCF/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=BGVH52YW84XC&keywords=liquid+lga+1700+bracket+kit&qid=1639751333&sprefix=liquid+lga+1700+bracket+ki%2Caps%2C372&sr=8-4

Not necessarily Dragon Center, but use MSI Mystic Light. That’s MSI’s software for using rgb. On Z390, I know it (should) use Mystic Light 3, so just find a download or here

There are lots of 3d printable models of cherry keycaps. Here is one for example: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/e5yWEV2PWCN-cherry-mx-keycap-model

I got mine working with that file. Thanks for sharing!

To open a RAR file, first you'll need to download a program to extract it. I used 7-Zip, which you can download here. Download and install the 64-bit x64 version.

Now open 7-Zip, go to "Tools" on the top bar, then "Options". The third option down is "rar". Select rar, then click the + sign at the top. Click OK to close the Options window. That will allow RAR files to be opened with 7-Zip. Now, just double click the RAR, drag the Cooler Master file out to your desktop and run it.

Thank you again!!

Apparently this one works with the 751 I don't think it has the volume wheel and mute button though. I ordered it yesterday and should be here in a week or so so ill test it and come back to this if you don't want to buy it just yet https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Auxiliary-3-5mm-Audio-Microphone/dp/B01N6SZYMH/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=Monoprice%2BOnyx%2BSeries%2BAuxiliary%2B3.5mm%2BTRRS&qid=1638316754&qsid=138-6823038-5237524&sr=8-3&sres=B01MZBUDRM%2CB071GWPJD...

It's already on the store - Amazon UK as the seller

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-MasterBox-NR200P-Including/dp/B09CZFZX7L/ref=sr\_1\_1?crid=38RWJFW5G3I12&keywords=nr200p+max&qid=1637271973&qsid=145-1831293-2066201&sprefix=nr200p+%2Caps%2C205&sr=8-1&sres=B09CZFZX7L%2C...

Just wanted to let you know, I fixed that today with karabiner-elements https://karabiner-elements.pqrs.org/. I didn't want to go for third-party app, but looks like a lot of people are using it. It's open source, lightweight. Now keyboard behaves like "native".

Oh, by the way, I had to restart my macbook in order to pickup all changes. As they say, "Have you tried to turn it off and on again" 😆

So, I am pretty happy with my keyboard now. It's well built, keycaps feels nice too. And now it works as expected with osx

Hope you will like your new keyboard!

From Software Support:

From our past experience, most user that has the same issue you described, usually has some OS problem with their PC.

Lets focus on installing update on the MK750 first.

If you have access to another PC, lets try install Portal on another PC.

then after you connect the MK 750 on another PC, press FN+E until LED blinks to reset settings.

See if you can now install the MK 750 SW and FW.

After everything is setup on the MK750.

back to the PC where you wish to use the MK750, install the portal and now here is the part where I am unclear, can you install at least the software for MK 750? does it show up in start menu?

If no, you may have to use a third part uninstaller to remove completely the Portal and try again.

We recommend GEEK uninstaller

<em>https://geekuninstaller.com/</em>

Hi Mynxygaming!

How many case fans does your system have?
The normal Lite 5 comes with 1 preinstalled fan in the rear, while the Lite 5 RGB comes with 4 fans, 1 in the rear and 3 in the front.It also comes with a 3way splitter that allows you to connect the 3 front fans to a single fan header on your motherboard.

You can control the power of each fan header in multiple ways:
- through the BIOS, if you do not want to tinker with software in windows --> pretty easy but limited
- through softwares like SPEEDFAN, which allow you total control (and monitoring features) of each fan header.

&#x200B;

Beware that if you have the Lite 5 RGB version and you are connecting the 3 front fans with the included splitter, they are going to run at the same speed.
If you want to control them indipendently, first check if your motherboard have 3 available fan headers, then detach the splitter and connect each fan to a different header ;)

And then you should be good to go!

They feel nicer than the flat ones for sure, just installed them today - no issues with the stabiliser movement other than the weird noise they make, gotta put some dielectric grease around the area to mute them a little bit. Has anyone had much experience with lubing those switches? I've started hearing the springs on some of them and it's rather annoying. Tried blasting the gap between the switch cap and the stud with some Super Lube spray today, does not seem to be enough for some of the switches, might re-attempt with more lube. https://snipboard.io/QkKXjY.jpg

&#x200B;

PS: the stabilisers don't seem to be stabilising that much on this keyboard...

Awesome! AC Input: 100-240V~ , 12-6A , 50-60hz With the psu that the NR200P max comes with is a 850w. Should this adapter below be just fine for this description?

2 Pack Europe to US Plug Adapter, LENCENT European to USA Adapter, American Outlet Plug Adapter, EU to US Adapter, Europe to USA Travel Plug Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0888K9VFJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_W709ET54BJC0K5H6AQ77?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I have the same problem - bought a aceyoon which gets in BUT....

aceyoon Aux Kabel, 3.5 Klinke auf 3.5 Klinke 3m Stereo Audio Kabel 4 Polig unterstützt Mikrofon 3.5mm Klinkenkabel für Kopfhörer, Autoradios, Smartphones, Tablets, MP3 MEHRWEG (3M Schwarz)

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B093D6BJ9S

BUT it does NOT work unless you glue it into the socket AS the f.... twist mechanism drives the plug into the socket and if this not happening then you have only sound on one ear - you can hold / press it in - which is no solution. So it is pretty propriorty - very bad idea COOLER MASTER.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Headphone-Compatible-Microphone-Controller/dp/B08M8ZMZ44/ref=mp_s_a_1_4 Such as this? What exactly happens due to the lack of the in-line control? I mentioned this in my original post

I went with the ID Cooling cpu cooler (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084G3Y7KZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1). So I got intak fans on the bottom, the cooler fans intaking from the side and the top fans are exhausting out.

I had the same issue (no RGB header on my MOBO) and found this RGB controller as well. It's compatible with any RGB devices with 12v 4-pin RGB input. It would not be compatible with 3-pin 5v ARGB.

Problem for me was the controller is considered EOL and doesn't seem to be supplied to retailers anymore. I had a local store of a big chain in Canada put in an order for one because they had it in their catalog but no stock anywhere. They later came back and said sorry, they can't get any as these are now EOL. However, I'm pretty sure you might still be able to buy one on eBay or third party sellers on Newegg. Beware that some of these sellers are shipping from Asia - could take up to a month to arrive.

I ended up going with this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07ZVS6QV7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Yes, it's remote controlled instead of software, but it's working great so far with no issues. It remembers your RGB settings. Shipped and arrived quickly - which was my main concern because I just wanted to get my build done. Less than half the cost of the CM controller too. If the CM controller was more available and could arrive quick, I would have still gone with it for the software control.

That is really weird. Fortunately the MK850 uses a "standard" layout and there are hundreds of compatible keycaps sets you can buy from any number of places. Here are ones specifically from Cooler Master: https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Doubleshot-Mechanical-Compatible/dp/B094QF35XK/

I noticed that the above linked black pudding keycaps are "frequently bought" with a white set as well, so presumably one could construct jazzy combinations. $50 to buy both though - We could almost buy our own ship for that.

I’d maybe just use this as a opportunity to get some new pudding keycaps. Any new keycaps really if you wanna mix it up.

I can't comment on the Apple one directly as I haven't used it. If it's USB and has a mic 3.5mm jack it should definitely work.

There are hundreds of these things, ranging from very simple and dirt cheap (but also poor quality) to studio level.

One I can vouch for being better than bad onboard (as I've used it) is: https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Labs-70SB173000000-Sound-Blaster/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ?ref_=ws_cp_49a722acca2e7546619b_p_4_t_p . It's not the best, but should be a big improvement. Look around a bit, paying attention to reviews of the mic quality and volume.

Yeah, I know, I ended up getting the controller because I specifically wanted ARGB rainbow puke even with a non-ARGB motherboard. I hooked up DeepCool CF120 fans to it, these https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07D3K4XG1/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_glc_fabc_03D1535S819KJVGC6410

Thanks. I used a bracket that fits into a PCI card slot, with smaller brackets at the corners for additional fans. Link to Amazon for reference:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V9NBS2L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_K6Q6JW78G0GXK2V6HDDZ?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

For more than one fan I typically prop the fans up to keep them from sagging.

Do you mean this cm controller - https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-COOLERMASTER-MFP-ACBN-NNUNN-R1-MFP-ACBN-NNNUNN-R1/dp/B07Z7WLWD5

1) If i connect 3 sickleflows argb fans using 1to-3 splitter argb that came in my case in slot 1 and 1 halo fan in slot 2, leaving other 2 slots empty, will it work?

2) do you have to apply settings everytime you restart to make them in sync? Or it's just apply once and forget?

3) which software you use to control the lighting, if it's masterplus, then can i make these 4 fans argb run on steady light, just plain white light all the time, no pattern or anything. Just white.

Dang. If you don't mind the noise, the stock wraith cooler will fit.

I went with an AIO - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XHD93BZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Works great and cannot be heard. Dropped the temps of 20c as well!

Put a thin bead of JB Super Weld along both edges (this stuff is clear, and comes in tiny bottles; Amazon Link). Do not use regular JB Weld; sure, it works, but at what cost? Use some very light (~250-300.grit) sandpaper on the edges you intend to bead, wipe them clean, bead them with Superweld, and then attach them. Next up, make sure both ends are tightly clamped/bonded together with outside force pushing both together; this will ensure a very tough seal, and a long life for the bandaid repair. Let it all sit 2 hours for light use, 24 hours for full cure use.

Took me like 2 seconds

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cooler-Master-MH630-Omnidirectional-Connectivity-Black/dp/B07ZV7GGB3

get yourself a can of compressed air one like this and blow out as much dust as you can https://www.amazon.com/Falcon-Compressed-Disposable-Cleaning-DPSJB/dp/B0000AE67M/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&amp;keywords=air+can&amp;qid=1618838835&amp;sr=8-3

do you want those? : https://www.amazon.fr/Geekria-Coussinets-Remplacement-Oreillettes-réparation/dp/B07J2TP6G8?th=1

I don’t think you had the right controller, I think you need this one and it basically uses that micro usb connector on the bottom to connect to a usb 2.0 header on your motherboard via an included cable. Then you’d just download coolermasters masterplus software to control the argb on the fans.

Yeah I choose the rgb option instead of argb here. I am not using the splitter but directly plugging in motherboard. All my other rgb fans work well except this one so I guess maybe the led are broken LOL. Anyway I am about to return this and get a new one... Hope that works 😉 Thanks man

Looks like something like this might be my best bet:
https://www.amazon.com/BYEASY-Inches-Internal-Reader-Type-C/dp/B08DKDHMGR/

It’sa Coolermaster MA620M!

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Addressable-Performance-Continuous/dp/B07YLKPWL5/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&amp;keywords=ma620m&amp;qid=1615603106&amp;sprefix=ma62&amp;sr=8-3

The fan isn’t the highest quality but you can replace it with a little work.

yea. confirmed it works in first comment or review. you will see.

little costly but will make it work 100%

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-COOLERMASTER-MFP-ACBN-NNUNN-R1-MFP-ACBN-NNNUNN-R1/dp/B07Z7WLWD5?th=1

technically yes an ARGB header typically can support around 3 fans with its amps (each might be different) if you get a controller it will be based on their specifications. for example this Thermal take controller fits 5 but recommends only 3

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Software-Controllable-Interactive-CL-F063-PL12SW/dp/B07D2N911K?th=1

most controllers you can daisy chain to get even more fans/lights.

120mm aios aren’t really worth it. I’d recommend getting a hyper 212 or this cooler that jayztwocents did a review on and it was really good

I had to buy a ARGB controller and attach that to the fan since the motherboard doesn't have space for it. Works fine now.

This is the fan I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H241TFT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Hope it helps.

if the controller doesn’t have the option to just remain solid, your next bet would be if there was a usb connection from the controller to your mobo - you could then change the style with the masterplus+ software.

if you can’t, you could connect your fans directly to the mobo’s argb header. if you don’t have an argb header, you would need one of these:

EZDIY-FAB RGB Converter, 12V RGB to 5V ARGB Transfer Hub with 3-Way Splitter, Motherboard with 12V 4-pin Header can Control 5V ADD-RGB Products, Built-in 50 Color Modes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082KJH2T3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_JC417AP5M05Q6GX4KBWY

DEEPCOOL also makes a similar one, but pretty pricey. do NOT try to force or frankenstein a direct connection from rgb header to argb peripheral - you’ll fry the LEDs

that converter will allow your mobo to treat the argb peripheral as strictly rgb, so no more fancy patterns - just whatever you would normally be able to pull off on a regular rgb peripheral.

sorry long post, somewhat new myself.

I don't see a 3-pin 5V ARGB header on that motherboard, which is what the Sickleflow fan needs to control the LEDs. The 3-pin connector on the fan has two ends, male and female, so you can daisy chain multiple fans off one ARGB header.

I do see a 4-pin 12V LED_CPU header but that's the wrong connector for your fan LEDs. I'm afraid you'll either need a different motherboard or to get a standalone ARGB controller if you want the fan LEDS to work. Cooler Master sells one pretty cheap: https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-MFX-ACBN-NNUNN-R1-Controller-Detection/dp/B07H241TFT

It was bundled with this AIO: https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-MasterLiquid-Addressable-MLX-D24M-A20PC-R1/dp/B079K244KZ/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&amp;keywords=Cooler+Master+MasterLiquid+ML240R&amp;qid=1610494361&amp;sr=8-1

I'm not sure if you can purchase it individually, but this may be a decent alternative: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0829QNBS2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

There's this:

https://www.amazon.com/Desktop-Computer-Rolling-Adjustable-Universal/dp/B07R7Z5T6K/ref=sr_1_11?dchild=1&amp;keywords=pc+cart&amp;qid=1609701751&amp;sr=8-11

Holy crap congrats on the 3090. Those thing are super rare these days. I have the ml240 mirror this and it comes with the non rgb sickleflows. I Was originally using my mf120rs for it but they developed a rattling bearing noise so I switched over to the sickleflows and so far so good. I wanna get some argb ones but wanted to get some opinions first. Also here’s the reverse editions this is the only place I’ve found them so far.

I have this cooler and there is no need of adapters of any sort there’s a 3:1 cable that is supposed to do this. It is supposed to be in included in the AIO either you plugged the whole kit badly, either it was mistakenly not included (cause it is supposed to be, I have the same AIO) you can purchase one here : Cooler Master RGB 1-to-3 Splitter Câble répartiteur 1 à 3, connecteur LED 4 broches et 5 broches, 58 cm, R4-ACCY-RGBS-R2 https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B0719QY63M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_LJU7FbGBSRY4A?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I'm thinking about use 3 A14s and a Deepcool PWM hub to replace them. I just don't know how much air I'm going to lose(or gain maybe) by sizing the fans down.

> Coolermaster Megaflow 200mm

Like this one? https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-R4-200R-08FC-R1-MF200R-Take/dp/B0787G3W1K/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&amp;keywords=cooler+master+megaflow+200mm&amp;qid=1609390130&amp;refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&amp;rnid=2470954011&amp;rps=1&amp;sr=8-1

If you’re interested, this is an 8-way hub for PWM fans and for addressable RGB. I used this in my wife’s build and it has been fantastic. It essentially has a sata connection for power, 8 separate PWM headers for fans, 8 separate 3-pin headers for argb, and then there is a single argb and PWM cable that go from the hub and connect to your mobo for fan and RGB control via software. Granted, what this then means is everything you connect into this hub will be synced up - so the RGB will all be the same on all fans or devices connected to it etc.

ID-COOLING HA-02 Fan Hub for Computer Internal Fans, 8 PWM Ports+8 ARGB Ports, ARGB Motherboard Sync, PWM Functional Fan Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BFKG7D8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_vyb5FbF2JDH7A?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

You can connect it in either location. It just depends on if you want an external wire or not. The other choice is to get something like this and leave the wiring internal.

It really kind of depends on what you want out of new switches. :) Do you want linear, tactile, clicky, silent, etc.? The most variety with the most compatibility come from Gateron. One other thing to keep in mind is that the switch stem color does impact the analog functionality so if you have really dark switch stem colors like black and brown they don't do quite as well as others. Yellow seems to provide the best response in all the switches I've tested. You can also always swap out the stems and put them in the existing enclosures in case there is a specific switch type you want but doesn't come in a clear enclosure.

The all-in-one solution easy solution to desolder would be something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tenma-21-8240-Vacuum-Desoldering-Iron/dp/B008DJRYIG/ref=zg_bs_8107034011_5?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=Y32X8ETHGK7RK9VS30S9

You basically press the button down on the top, heat up the pins, press the button on the side and it sucks up the solder nice and clean. If it doesn't come up clean you sometimes need to apply solder back on with a soldering iron and then try to desolder again. The only real danger to messing up the PCB would be if you hold the desoldering iron for too long on the contact, but if you just let it melt the solder and you suck it up and should go pretty easily.

fairly certain it's a crosstalk issue, I've been experiencing the same with my MH752 and I have yet to hear back from CM after submitting a ticket. I have read elsewhere that replacing the cable with something like this can fix it

https://www.amazon.com/ARCHEER-Auxiliary-Headphones-Smartphone-Tablets/dp/B01MU3TY2O/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&amp;keywords=4+pole+3.5mm&amp;qid=1607137545&amp;sr=8-2#customerReviews

but I haven't tried that myself

I have this in my build and I really like it. And it's cheap!

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-Graphics-Addressable-Controlled-Motherboard/dp/B07PYR46CL/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1U3XIX7LMWYF&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=deepcool+gpu+bracket&amp;qid=1606361762&amp;sprefix=deepcool+gpu+b%2Caps%2C159&amp;sr=8-4

Splitters are an option. I want to offer this option also, though. Just bought this fan hub / argb hub for my wife's build and it is great. It fits cooler master fans also (I have the ma410m and all CM fans and double checked).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BFKG7D8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

It has slots for 8 fans and 8 addressable (5v) rgb connections, and is powered by sata, so you don't have to worry about not having enough power through multiple splitters for a single argb header.

Cooler Master took over three weeks to respond via email with a RMA offer. Amazon was very kind to take both LC240E's back and I bought some better quality Corsair coolers that were more expensive but not dramatically so. They are quieter, run cooler and have had zero problems whatsoever. I've taken this as a lesson and will never go cheap again on water cooling.

FYI I bought two H100i RGB Pro XT's. I feel like they are very good value at $100 apiece, if anything because I don't have to deal with hassle and risk from failing water coolers.

https://www.amazon.ca/Cooler-Master-Efficiency-Semi-fanless-Operation/dp/B08LP6WS35/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&amp;keywords=sfx+850&amp;qid=1605394926&amp;sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A20-PWM-Premium-200x30mm/dp/B071SLFBNY

I looked at the reviews and Apollo Smile said "Does NOT Fit Inside Cooler Master MasterCase H500 Nor Lan Box HAF EVO" so I guess thats a no for those fans.

It does not.. I just tried this...

Use this instead: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;source=web&amp;rct=j&amp;url=https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cooler-Master-Mega-200mm-R4-LUS-07AR-GP/dp/B002LE8BJA&amp;ved=2ahUKEwi19cuAtP_sAhWDUcAKHT80CY0QFjAAegQIARAB&amp;usg=AOvVaw0ffP0gjJ_72pl7WY3H3htm

You mean this one? Cooler Master ARGB LED Controller with 4 x 3-Pin Ports - Multiple Colour Effects, Thermal Detection Mode, 4-Pin RGB Device Compatible https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z7WLWD5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_QERQFbWBJ6JQN

I have a

MSI Z390-A PRO LGA1151 (Intel 8th and 9th Gen) M.2 USB 3.1 Gen 2 DDR4 HDMI DP CFX Dual Gigabit LAN ATX Z390 Gaming Motherboard

I haven't been able to find a product page for any of the higher wattage PSUs, but I found an amazon listing for the 550w model. According to the listing, it'll be released on the 17th. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LP6LPQN/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_kHIPFbC8054RD

Found it on the german Amazon (much cheaper compared to the UK one)

Im still learning about the whole mechanical kb scene so pardon my ignorance, would these be used to help stop the bottoming out? Dampeners or are they only for sound improvement?

No, it says it’s “certified compatible with Asus aura” on the features & details section of its amazon page (https://www.amazon.ca/Cooler-Master-MasterKeys-Mechanical-Removable/dp/B077J2SPCL)

It sucks that it’s not compatible because that’s one of the major reasons I bought this keyboard. :(

Hi, I ordered the bracket from amazon and its a bit different from the one my C700M came with but I was able to make it fit in my case. Its a bit thicker than the original for the C700M but I was able to make it fit on the top of my case.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078599BW8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Hi Eric, is this a legit listing on Amazon?

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Tenkeyless-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B07WHHYGJ5/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=cooler+master+sk630+white&amp;qid=1566525323&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-2

Just letting everyone know, preorders are now available via Amazon for the MM711! Wooooo (Releasing December 18th)

&#x200B;

Cooler Master MM711 Mouse

Sorry for a late question to this comment/post, but if I read that correctly, you were able to fit a 3 slot EVGA GPU in the Cooler Master v2 GPU Vertical Mount?

I have this EVGA GPU and wondered if it would fit.

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Overclocked-Backplate-08G-P4-3287-KR/dp/B07VHSJ4GV

If you are in the US you can get it here: https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-ControlPad-Exclusive-Technology/dp/B08J6J1CZV/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&amp;amp%3Bkeywords=controlpad&amp;amp%3Bqid=1601413442&amp;amp%3Bsr=8-5&amp;th=1

This is correct. Just one note (from my own experience): if you use ARGB fans from other brands, as long as they a) use the same 3-pins 5V ARGB standard that Cooler Master uses; and b) have the same number of LEDs; they will probably work just fine (both on MasterPlus with the USB plug connected to your MOBO, and with the Asus AuraSync --or equivalent-- with the controller box connected to the MOBO with the 3-pin 5V cable, as was the case in my build).

I replaced the original CM fans with SilverStone Technology AB120R-ARGB Air Blazers and they worked perfectly with both software (on MasterPlus you have to choose an equivalent sized Cooler Master ARGB fan from the list just to be able to assign the connections, but then it works just fine).

I also had to replace the Cooler Master fans from my ml360r because they all started to creak and whine after about a month or two of use. I went with Silverstone Technology AB120R-ARGB Air Blazers and I couldn't be happier with my choice! Reasons:

1) They work flawlessly with CM's RGB controller box and software (and consequently also work flawlessly with Aura Sync on my ASUS AM4 TUF Gaming X570-Plus)

2) They are way brighter than the CM fans;

3) They spin up to 2200 RPM (the CM ones go up to 2000) and are quieter than the CM fans;

Besides, my experience with Silverstone gear (have been using their products 10 years now, including plenty of fans) has always been super positive, so I'm confident in recommending their products.

Well, these are not supposed to be screwed all the way through the radiator (to then screw to the fan on the other side of the radiator). If you screw through the rad with any long screws, you'll damage the rad and it will leak.

These long 30mm screws should only be screwed all the way THROUGH THE FAN (and only through regular 25mm thick fans by the way! If you have slim fans, you'd have to use screws that are shorter than 30mm) and then you'll have just enough millimeters left on the other side of the fan to screw it to the radiator without damaging the rad.

If what you want to do is to screw the radiator directly to the case (with no fans in between the case and the rad), you will need shorter 5mm screws like the short ones that come in this kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009TBPOL6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title (and then you'd use the long 30mm ones to screw the fans on the other side of the rad).

Sorry I just saw this, but the fan has 2 connectors, a 4 pin power connection to put into a SYS fan port on the MOBO and it has a 3 pin connector with a space added in between. And I bought these exact fans. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07GKQF1GD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Not sure if this is still relevant for you but I ordered my MH751 along with a normal 3.5mm AUX cable (3 rings ones, male to male type) a few days ago :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K2TL8ZD?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image

I've no idea if it is gonna work with it since I have not received it yet but it is supposed to work and replace the original cable which should eliminate that original cable noise issue since it has a regular plastic coating layer.

wouldn't a normal 9 pin work? something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Duttek-2-Pack-Female-Dupont-Motherboard/dp/B06Y5C7DKH/ref=pd_bxgy_img_3/141-3870470-3380939?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B06Y5C7DKH&amp;pd_rd_r=9fa36b06-022e-44dc-9b4e-5056e0da64ee&amp;pd_rd_w=ALSpk&amp;pd_rd_wg=frqO5&amp;pf_rd_p=ce6c479b-ef53-49a6-845b-bbbf35c28dd3&amp;pf_rd_r=BJND9NHE8V1SQTNYQZMZ&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=BJND9NHE8V1SQTNYQZMZ

What about this one?

https://www.amazon.com/Duttek-2-Pack-Female-Dupont-Motherboard/dp/B06Y5C7DKH/ref=pd_bxgy_img_3/141-3870470-3380939?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B06Y5C7DKH&amp;pd_rd_r=9fa36b06-022e-44dc-9b4e-5056e0da64ee&amp;pd_rd_w=ALSpk&amp;pd_rd_wg=frqO5&amp;pf_r...

Ok, just for reference, this is what I'm looking to get:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YF64KLX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XV5TT1F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KZUxFbGQ8W8V0

So the RGB on both of these items would just be controlled by the motherboard despite whatever ARGB splitter I use?