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Took approximately 34 seconds to find this.
His testing methodology is in the post.
His equipment is also in the post.
His measurements are, you guessed it, in the post.
Just replace them with new cup styles. Just a speaker terminal. https://www.amazon.com/Goldwood-Sound-Speaker-Terminal-RGT-4025-2/dp/B06ZY8LK82/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=recessed+speaker+terminal&qid=1622036872&s=electronics&sr=1-10
Specifically, that appears to be a Glass 5x20mm Slow-Blow 5 Amp Fuse.
The size I am sure of.
It appears to be slow-blow due to both the "squiggly" element, and the "L" marking before the rating.
I believe the rating if 5 Amps, though it is possible that it is 0.5 Amps (though usually you'd see "0.5" instead of just ".5"). I would check the PCB and see if the rating is printed on the board. If not, can you tell us what it is from? It should be pretty easy to determine if it is 0.5 or 5 based on the use.
Wire straight into terminal blocks is fine, but if you want something a bit more durable and pro looking you can grab a set of ferrule crimps:
https://www.amazon.com/Ferrule-Crimping-Tool-Kit-0-08-10mm%C2%B2/dp/B07PJK2VNT
Super easy to use and were a game changer for me.
You could try
Home Audio Power Amplifier System 2X40W Mini Dual Channel Sound Stereo Receiver Box w/ LED For Amplified Speakers, CD Player, Theater via 3.5mm RCA for Studio, Home Use Pyle PCA2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P2VV50/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_OyEhFbTS0T1TH
Or
2 Channel Stereo Audio Class D Amplifier Mini Hi-Fi Professional Digital Amp for Home Speakers 50W x 2 - V1.0G https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XQGYRJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_fAEhFbEYWGXT5
Plug into any amp that has that jack.
Troels also tends to overbuild in strange places. Things like 80 uF poly for shunt caps--really? That's a huge amount of money for something that arguably isn't even in the direct signal path.
This might be closer to the sound signature of your current ones, but just with more of everything. :-D
https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/tarkus
Paul is a great guy, and this speaker has been built by many people on both the HTGuide and Parts Express forums. You'll get loads of advice along the way from either forum if a floor-standing 3-way is what you're after. I still think that you could be well served by a solid 2-way design. The right 6" or even 5" driver can give you great midrange while still making more bass than you ever would have suspected possible.
OP here, I know I'm going to get destroyed for doing this but let me give some context.
The SO is moving into her first flat ever tomorrow, she ordered up her TV on Tuesday past - cheap big screen, but from all the reviews terrible sound quality.
I remember a small set of speakers I have and browse amazon for a cheap stereo amp, settled on a LEPY LP-2024A+ Plus Amplifier
While I'm waiting on that arriving I plug one of the speakers into my own gear, an oh dear, sounds dreadful - Taking the grilles off shows me that the foam surrounds to the cones are shot, after some googling fairly common on a 20-25 year old speaker.
Cue the search for foam kits / replacement drivers - being in the UK the cheapest foam kits are about £20, drivers in the <£20 range are total crap.
So ultimately I'm thinking I'm just going to order a small set of speakers, but hey lets have a play with these, butcher a pillow case, some glue and we have working speakers again - quick vid here
surprisingly decent sounding, not sure if the video will convey that however, filmed on a phone. Bear in mind here all I wanted to do was turn up something better sounding than a cheap TV's internal speaker! I know I have probably significantly reduced sensitivity and a whole other bunch of stuff.
Amp arrived yesterday so carted everything over to hers for a test run, paired up with an old active sub I had (Sony SA-WD100) and everything works and sounds decent for the princely sum of £18 (amp)
Job tonight hooking it up to the TV that has just arrived
You can use an isolation transformer. It's different from a ground loop isolator because it needs to handle all the power to the amplifier, not just a weak audio signal. This one should work for modest loads.
This bit works great for shallow depth veneer trimming like driver flush mounting
Amana Tool - 51204 Solid Carbide Short/Flat Pilot for Dado Clean Out & Dado Cleaning Flush
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P4QBEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6HxzFb3TV2PAS
Can you go back and get the cabinet they were housed it? The amazon reviews say it sounds pretty good
Audio Tool app for Android has an RTA function and simple dB meter. Simply play your x-over freq on the mains with the subs muted and vice versa to get a quick and dirty gain-staging setup.
Note that this app won't necessarily be absolutely accurate due to the inconsistencies of your phones internal microphone but it will be fine for relative differences between speakers measured by the same mic.
I use an Android app called Soundwire to do this. I use old Android phones as the receiver & an app called Foobar2000 controller to control it from my current phone or any of the receiver phones. You can also use a linux or Windows computer as the receiver by setting up a virtual android machine. Details & instructions are here http://georgielabs.net.
Why not try using a headphone splitter first? https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B084V3TRTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_39CR78B19SEDEZ3XPG8B pick up two of those and plug both systems into the computer at once to see if it's going to work. If you like how it sounds you can go ahead with splicing the inputs together.
If you want quality, this is the lowest end option I’d recommend and add streamers of your choice.
OSD Audio 12 Channel Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EGVID70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_A2AQ0ZQ24P4N89SY2JB9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Well. That's quite a lot of things to learn.
I suggest you get started by doing some reading and consider building kits others designed and dissecting them to understand the how and why.
A good start https://www.amazon.com/Introduction-Loudspeaker-Design-John-Murphy/dp/0966377346
The Hakkos and clones will make your life easier, but a lot of people really like some of the USB powered smart pencil irons. I haven't used one though so I can't vouch for them.
As for solder, the composition is more important than the brand. Look for close to 60/40 with a flux core. It's a good balance of melting temperature, flow characteristics, and strength for electrical soldering.
Those are meant for home use. Get speakers that look like those on the picture I sent. They're better suited for festival use; soundwise and buildquality-wise. The MaxAmp is very power efficient but output is limited. I would go with dual batteries in series and a STA508 as amplifier: http://tinypic.com/r/5peiky/8
Only problem I see is that you are going to hav to cut holes to use these speakers, you may be better off with something like this http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Yamaha+-+Natural+Sound+5%22+2-Way+All-Weather+Outdoor+Speakers+(Pair)+-+Black/8837672.p?id=1208561589448&skuId=8837672
Subwoofers often do not need a crossover, rather, the Plate Amp includes both a High Level (Speaker wire) and a Low Level (RCA level) input. Companies selling Hundred Grand speakers often will offer High Level inputs for the low end of their speakers. This also means you may use a Plate amplifier Crossover with a Passive crossover for Mid-high/Fullrange-Supertweeter. And from experience it works pretty damn well.
Crossover-wise: https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/crossover
Crossovers are often result of experiments with Inductors and Capacitors (and Autoformers/L-Pads), I use that calculator up there to give method to the madness.
Now, crossovers might seem intimidating at first, yet with some reading they are nothing someone with skills cannot do as seen in this article:
https://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Tutorial/DesignBuildCrossover/
I used to keep some cheap electrolytics and alligator clips to test them out and it worked like magic. Though using some better components and solder definitely ups the ante in quality. I would recommend you do the same for the near future. Perhaps order several electrolytics as you go so that you can test out frequencies.
Though if you are willing to spend more, I've found line-level crossovers such as the MiniDSP and the Harrison Labs do great as well. Nevertheless, you will need a an amplifier and attenuator per driver section. There are pros and cons for both though I've found LLCs to work better than Speaker levels except for Bass (don't ask).
Just always remember that the people at DIYAUDIO will be helpful with whatever you need, and definitely there are crossover experts lurking around here. So if in doubt, ask away!
Now, the Marks do not particularly need a tweeter given they go very damn high, so if your worry is about the subwoofer you can always use the Speaker Level inputs to cross over and experiment with the knobs. Placement then becomes the experiment followed by Toe-Tapping.
Don't go by the amazon price, it's just stupid.
US$36 and they ship to Norway.
I like Draftsight. It's free nagware (you have to register annually), very similar to AutoCAD. There's a bit of a learning curve, but that'll be true of any decent CAD package, and this one is popular enough to have quite a bit of help online. A quick Youtube video should be enough to get you going.
Audacity or Reaper are good audio editing programs and are both free. Reaper is much better, but can be a lot to take in for someone new to audio editing. Being able to see the waveform makes it easy to identify disrupting sounds. And looking at it from a timeline perspective is intuitive. But if you want to work with both the audio and video at the same time, Magix (formally Sony) Movie Studio is really good. I've heard a lot of good things about HitFilm video editing software. It's free, but if you want to do any advanced editing, you have to pay for module/plug-ins. I have not used it though, but again, have heard good things about it. https://fxhome.com/express
People will tell you this is the wrong subreddit, but I thought I would give some feedback. I also find it cool you did this. I found a "diy" audiobook (short story) on YouTube many years ago of Isaac Assimov's "The Last Question" and it got me into audiobooks. I've thought of doing a certain controversial book, since I don't think any commercial outlet would risk doing it....but audiobooks are becoming a very popular way of consuming written knowledge.
An educated guess: It's a class AB stereo power amplifier in the range of 100-200 watts per channel.
If you check the amp rating of the fuse you can get a good idea. For example: a 3A fuse on 120 volts is a maximum of 360w power consumption. (You can calculate the power using this page.) Figure about 60% efficiency. With two channels, that's 216 watts, or 108 watts per channel. This would be the maximum continuous power the amplifier could deliver, but not necessarily at low distortion.
To measure the useful audio power, you will need (at minimum) a sine wave signal generator of some kind and an oscilloscope to measure the output voltage at the point the waveform begins to show clipping.
You could also look at peak voltage on oscilloscope when it's actually delivering music to speakers. This is likely how the manufacturer measures the rated power. If you do this with speakers, you should be using earplugs.
I put large patches of butyl rubber/aluminum sound insulation for cars on the inside of my cabinets. It was a noticeable improvement.
Yes and no. If your current speakers are 8 ohms you can parallel another pair to make it appear to the receive that you have one 4-ohm pair. This is the easiest way. If your speakers are 6- or 4-ohm you shouldn't parallel them directly because most amplifiers don't like <4-ohm loads.
You can get around this cheaply by using resistors. If your speakers are not 8 ohms, put a resistor in series to make them 8 ohms. (4 ohms for a 4-ohm speaker, 2 ohms for a 6-ohm speaker.) This will make your amplifier happy but reduce the volume slightly--probably not even noticeable unless you like your music very loud. The resistors are very inexpensive.
A third way which will probably work just fine is simply parallel the speakers, whatever their impedance. Because of the resistance of the relative long wires to the speakers, they will probably be just fine--again unless you like your music very loud. Then your amplifier may shut down because of excess current.
Myself, I'd just wire them and parallel. Bet you won't ever have a problem.
Don't try this with with more than two pairs of speakers, however.
Beyond what the previous reply said there are SO many way to go here. First, you should check to see if all 4 speakers are actually wired (easy to do with a 9v battery, just tap it to the connector and you should be able to hear the speaker click) - if all four click then you can be assured that they are wired together in the wall, or more likely daisy chained together. As previous also mentioned, OHM rating is important to know - most likely they are 8ohm speakers, but they could be 4 or even 12... so that would be a good thing to learn(take one down, I bet it's printed on the back of it) - there are TONS of a BT amps out there, I've had luck with some of the chip amps on Amazon (search BT amp - like this one, https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Amplifier-Wireless-Speakers-Password/dp/B08R3Y5WXH/ref=pd_sim_3/141-6016134-7597357?pd_rd_w=FSU6i&pf_rd_p=6caf1c3a-a843-4189-8efc-81b67e85dc96&pf_rd_r=ERB0K1QVKX3Z6R12AJSS&pd_rd_r=77c9f1dd-04a8-45d8-83b7-448e19be86dd&pd_rd_wg=huckV&pd_rd_i=B08R3Y5WXH&psc=1) although there are SO MANY options - and that one is a "cheap" version...
You can find similar boards here
They sure beat the price of a similar board from Radio Shack 13 years ago. When I first got started in electronics I paid much more for supplies than I do now.
It would work fine you just need a multimeter to tone out which cable goes to which tip. Better yet to just get RCA barrels
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08BCFXSBV
This is the first mixer I've owned and I had never used one before.
Going into it are; a chromecast audio, a fiio btr3k being used as a pc dac, output from a laptop that's pretty much used as a desktop, line out outputs from an hdmi matrix and output from two monitors without speakers.
Going out; are some logitech 2.1 speakers I can't remember the name of and Sennheiser HD580's.
oh and if any of you are thinking of buying this, I highly recommend painting a little white line into the knobs so you can see their position better.
kinda unclear here. Is this all for a car? or is this for home use? The needs for a car amp are a little different (size, shape, physical robustness etc.) than for a home amp. Almost any 2.1 amp will power that setup just fine, but it depends on how much you want to spend. There are some REALLY nice 2.1 amps with BT for $1000s - and there are some very usable amps with 2.1 and BT for like $50-$100 (quick search: https://www.amazon.com/FX-AUDIO-Bluetooth-Amplifier-Subwoofer/dp/B08DHLDCNW/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=2.1+amp&qid=1623516576&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyT0JHWkpBUTBBS0FFJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzU4OTc0M0hCWTlJRlRGMUxPWCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODM3MTY5MjlWQzYyU0ZCTVBTTCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=)
​
So... more information would be helpful.
I have a switch that allows for dual amps to be hooked up to t few different sets of speakers. This is you safest bet.
2 Amp x 3 Pair Speaker Selector Switch Switcher Volume Control, Commercial Grade Brass Jacks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XUM9OAM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YFZ4FWF0WCGYCVH3GEF3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Is there anyway to test this amplifier board to tell if its blown? I brought it into work and idk if i just blew the speakers or if the amp is damaged, it sounded fine the other day but sounds like hot garbage today. I have a multimeter here and its slow so i have time to let my curiosity get the best of me
Right! So, I've actually bought the KD-X270BT (3 times, 3 different cars lol) which is more or less the same model as the X260 you linked to. You can select the RCA output to be either a subwoofer preamp or both rear speaker channels preamp. In your case, the easiest way to make this setup work would be an RCA splitter, such as this example. You will need 2 of them.
Single ends will obviously connect to the head unit, the split end connects to both RCA inputs on the amp. The downside is that your whole stereo will be playing as a 2 channel setup with only the rear channel signals playing through the amp, and you will not be able to add a subwoofer.
Another option is a 4 channel line output converter. You connect this to power, remote turn on, and the 4 speaker level outputs. It will convert the signals to a preamp.
Edit: just noticed the amp says it has line level inputs, so you can probably just hook the speaker output up directly to the amp. Double check with the user manual, could make your life easier 👍🏼
Good idea, but OP would probably want the opposite style instead since the PC will have a single female output and most PC speakers have a male connection on them.
Also I would just use the adapter permanently and would never bother soldering the two speaker systems connectors together. That way the speaker systems can be used independently later if wanted.
Someone is selling a Sony STR-VX350 AV receiver near me for $20 firm, and it has the right power output for the speakers. Knowing almost nothing about receivers, is this an ok deal?
I see now that a used receiver is going to do A LOT more than a new amp for the same price, I will take the used path!! Thanks for the suggestion!
I second that recommendation. I used the specific model I linked to cut the circles for my sub box. It was easy to use and fit my Dewalt router without issue.
Ah. Then no, it would not be a good idea. If you're getting super cheap drivers, or already have the drivers, then the 25€ for the experiment isn't terrible, but I wouldn't expect great results.
I also don't think your layout will give you great results, though. I know this is a speaker subreddit, and I love speakers, but I still prefer headphones for my computer. It's hard enough to get good sound working around the reflections from the desk and the baffle gain from the monitor. Once you start adding walls and the sort of space constraints that lead to a diamond-shaped box, you're getting a really compromised experience. Some inexpensive Superlux HD681's would be a much better use of money, if you can get them in the EU.
The amp is 20W / channel (40W total). Whilst the speakers are rated to 30W continuous, the volume is more than enough for filling a room. Here is a link to it (UK).
avedio links 4K HDMI Audio Extractor, HDMI to HDMI + Optical Toslink SPDIF + 3.5mm AUX Stereo Audio Out, HDMI Audio Converter Adapter Splitter Support 4K@60Hz HDCP1.4 Full HD 1080P 3D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H94D77V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YF4ZQRHE5RG9YQX8M9PM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
There you go, audio out!
Your description is confusing. I think you're calling those bare wire ends, or the binding posts on your amplifier, "L/R"? That's not accurate - L and R are the stereo audio channels (left and right). Bare wire connections are just bare wire connections, or binding posts, or screw terminals.
Anyway, most subwoofers with an RCA jack input are powered - they have their own amplifier built in. If the sub has a power cord of its own, this is the case. Your amp doesn't provide the line-level signal that RCA jack is expecting, though, it provides a speaker-level signal. You should open up the subwoofer and connect the wires from your new amp directly to the wires feeding the subwoofer driver internally. You could bring these out to a set of speaker binding posts.
I had to replace the original speaker with a smaller modern one to be able to fit everything inside. The dimensions were very specific and somewhat atypical so I only found one option. It was this:
Visaton Full-Range Speaker 10 cm (4'') 100-V System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003NT6YNM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_i_jQI.FbMB7BGND?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I think these should work. They are meant for power connectors. I think speakers commonly use banana plugs. Like to connect to amplifier chassis. So if you had male banana plug on the speaker wires. That is all set for when you are done tinkering.
You can get chassis mount or inline banana jacks too. Like these. 10Pcs Brass Insulated Safety Shrouded 4mm Female Banana Plug Jack Socket Solder Cable Connector https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07KKJQ1Z1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_iON6FbNQ1MNP0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I forgot to say ideally it should be a linear power supply,which is why I’ve not tried it myself as they’re generally too expensive a standard supply might still make a difference I’ve just not had a spare one to try with, I did stumble over this the other day though,the reviews all look good so I’m hoping Santa might have one for me 😂 Enjoy your tinkering, it’s half the fun!
If you want to connect to a single speaker, you need to convert the low-level audio signal coming from the pedal (which is on the order of millivolts into 1000 ohms impedance) to a high-level signal ( full volts, into a 4-8 ohm impedance). This WILL require some sort of amplifier. Without one, the signal coming out of the speaker will be so quiet you'll be able to talk over it.
Don't think of "amplifier" as some dirty word in this application. They take little voltages and make them big ones, while also supplying the extra amps of current that the speaker needs. An amplifier need not color the signal--think of rack-mount Pro Audio amps. They're as close to perfectly flat as possible. What you need is something like that, but obviously smaller.
This would do exactly what you need: https://www.amazon.com/TDA7498E-Audio-Amplifier-Receiver-Integrated/dp/B077GWVHHN/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=class+D+amplifier&qid=1603894318&sr=8-5
Though you'll still have to adapt from the XLR to RCA, but as the other commenter said, you can get an adapter for it. And you don't need to use the XLR, really. If there's 1/4" out from the pre, you can go 1/4" -> RCA very easily. The Hosa GPR-101 is like $3.
Other options would be something like the Mooer Baby Bomb 30 or the EHX Magnum 44 (which are both convenient little pedal size units).
Get a small tripath amp from Amazon. They're cheap. There are a lot that have bluetooth, but you'll want to make sure that you can connect with a 3.5 mini cable, directly to your phone, iPod, etc. as well. As /u/rab-byt mentioned, you'll want to know if it's AC or DC, but with a tripath amp, you'll be fine with both because the amp can run 12 volt dc directly. I've done that quite a bit in the past. Here is an example of one with a remote. You can find them cheaper too. If you don't need bluetooth, they're as cheap as 30 bucks.
My total costs were about $800 I would guess. I had about $500 from Mouser, the cases were $120, and the volume attenuator was $140. I put all premium crap in, so you could totally shave off the price and probably not even affect performance, but I wanted to go all out.
It took awhile because of life events lol, but actual work was probably like a week. I had built the CKIII amp that is on AMB Audio before, and numerous guitar pedals. So I had experience drilling/dremel-ing cases and soldering.
What was surprising, is that circuit board holder was worth its weight in gold. I think I paid like $15 on Amazon, my God, it was incredible.
Also, having a nice soldering iron makes all the difference. And I'm going to link the flux that I used. The needle tip made things so easy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MR49JY1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Other than that, just be patient and prepare for mistakes lol. I ordered the wrong parts here or there, broke stuff, etc.
I do not have measurements, but it's the nicest amp I have heard through my HD600 and I've heard some pretty nice stuff. I want to say it's a touch warm? Not like a tube amp, but not quite flat? The biggest difference for me was separation. The detail and soundstage opened up so much compared to the CKIII that was my main amp.
What would you recommend for someone who's just getting started with making pedals? Do you have diagrams so you know where to put the compnents?
I've never done anything like this before and have just slightly above zero knowledge and experience with wiring. I was looking at some of the DIY kits on Amazon as an easy starting point.
> Carmody's Amigas
Weird that there's stuff missing from the parts express kit. The kit on Amazon seems to include everything. Regardless, badass and thanks for sharing
You shouldn't have any big surprises, but you also don't need to DIY your own hardware to pull this off. Take a look at the Shelly 1 WiFi Relay for a $15 ready-to-use example. You can power this model with a range of voltage source from 12v DC to 110v AC wall current, using DC is likely to give a lower noise floor with an amplifier though.
Also, if you don't like the closed firmware, the Shelly 1 provides a programming header, and can easily be reflashed with the open-source Tasmota firmware if you'd prefer.
Foreal though, is there a reason you soldered instead of using the quick connect terminals supplied? Since this looks like a kit sometimes it is beneficial to use the friction quick connects so you can change/redo things to explore variance in performance.
Quick Connect: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KF88D3D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_boTyFbFF4EQ9E
Same concept just a little simpler and likely less overall power than the 2 psu's
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082NSVWJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wburFb47ABTBT
It's what I upgraded to after starting out with a 300ish watt psu. Built in fans and I wired a standard light switch into the 120v power cord.
There are line-level converters used for car Audio that you could use, they’re pretty cheap online, but they convert a speaker line to a pair of rca’s that might do the trick.
Good luck!
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/
I have several. The Weller I have had for more than 13 years. pretty basic and works like a charm. You can get it on Amazon for about 40$.
Those kind of board to wire connectors are made by crimping terminals to the end of wires and inserting them into a plastic housing. To do that you can get a kit which you can find by searching "JST-XH 2.5mm connector kit" and a crimping tool if the kit doesn't include one.
Here's an example of a kit I found on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0791DJMW9/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_Ki5CEbNHN5XH8
And crimping tool: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OMM4YUY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_6o5CEb5CCV9QC
If you're planning on doing a lot of this kind of thing then it might be worth the $35 for both. Otherwise I would recommend desoldering those connectors and just solder in wires.
Amazon has some cheap class D amplifiers with Bluetooth built in that are only a few bucks more than that Bluetooth adapter.
I’ve used this one before and it was ok:
F900 Mini Bluetooth Power Amplifier Wireless Audio Receiver with 12V 5A DC Adapter, Stereo Hi-Fi Digital Amp 2 Channel 50W 2 with AUX/USB/Bluetooth Input (Amplifier+Adapter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072Q157FY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KnleEb5X4JHDK
You need a handsfree mic (like those used by product demonstrators or lecturers) that either hook on the ear or have a headband. One example. The skinny boom could probably fasten to the helmet.
Then you need a LM386 - type small amplifier. Easy to build from scratch, or you can buy completed boards from the far east. You might also need an electret preamp board.
Then... a little speaker in some sort of mountable enclosure. it might also hold the batteries (ie 4x AA) and the electronics.
I feel like I'm missing something. What would you need a dedicated switch for in this case?
If the switch box automatically switches over to the tube amp when it's powered and the power strip senses if the tube amp is powered on, and then automatically switches on the outlet for the switch box, it seem like just switching the tube amp on or off directly at it's own power switch should also trigger power for the switch box, thereby fully accomplishing your initial goal.
Something like this should work: https://www.amazon.com/APC-P8GT-Power-Saving-SurgeArrest-Protection/dp/B002K8S2J6/
Just make sure whatever power strip you buy has adjustable sensitivity for the power on detection on the master outlet.
As far as sensing when the tube amp is on, you could use one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058DHO1W
Plug the tube amp into the master outlet and an AC relay into one of the slave outlets. When you turn the tube amp on, the relay will also turn on.
That said, there are plenty of relays that operate on 5-6 VDC if you prefer to go that way.
Thanks much. If I am using my computer for playback, can I do this windows software instead? I came across the Equalizer APO which I am just starting to play with.
I'd try a power strip with a "master" outlet and a few "master controlled" outlets. The power strip senses when the computer plugged in to the "master" outlet is on or off, and turns the other outlets on or off correspondingly.
I found one for $70 on amazon. Comes with a remote. If I wanted to keep using a 20 year old receiver with 5.1 inputs and modern convenience, it's not a bad way to go. https://www.amazon.com/XOLORspace-COAXIAL-Optical-decoder-Control/dp/B085WRGRGY
I am still trying to do this (like I said I am no audiophile, but I did like the sound of these speakers and don't want to toss them out if I can fix them for cheap!).
Decided to go with this amp (based on TPA3116D2 and seems to work well according to some YT reviews), use this for a power supply, bypass the internal wiring of the sub and connect the sub and satellites to the amp.
Not sure if I am overlooking something, will find out in a few days and update the thread!
Yikes! They are expensive! But it looks like you can buy them individually at least, I actually didn't see these come up for some reason, I was only seeing sets, which is what kind of led to the confusion because it seems like with a set I'd end up with some sizes I'd never need. So this might actually still be better. https://smile.amazon.com/Greenlee-730BB-15-16-Standard-Knockout/dp/B002NQX038/
From the technical specs here, it looks like SpeakOn needs a .945" (24mm) hole, just a hair bigger than 15/16" (.9375"). Honestly that might be close enough that I could finagle it in or even sand down the plastic on the SpeakOn connecter just enough to slide it in. Would probably be worth it to not need more than 1 punch. https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/nl4mpxx
Thanks for the tip! Realistically would there be any other connector that would benefit from a knockout press? Seems like most other things like RCA would just need a drill, or an IEC plug which I'll probably just use a Dremel.
So... Let me think.. Is that about declaration of value? If someone bought one and then shipped it to you as let's say... A gift a box of electronic parts...etc.
I know that some people have sold me things on ebay and they have been marked as toy parts. Or misc parts...
Is there a workaround like that?
I mean you are telling me... I believe you ... India charges 100% import tax on all goods even from bordering countries? Doesn't India have some new deal with China for imports happening?
I did see the A07 here - https://hifimart.com/product/aiyima-a07-powerful-desktop-amplifier/ - out of stock though.
Only you understand the charges, the EMI and the taxes... I don't know anything about that stuff. I did find this
I bought this for a 2.1 system that wasn't working because of a lost module. I made a portable unit out of it with this amp. It sounds better than I ever could have imagined. I recently got the 2 channel version but I don't have suitable speakers for it yet. I think since the 2.1 amp has a high pass filter is one of the reasons it makes my setup sound so good. As for the 2 channel version I think it will be great as long as crossovers are implemented somewhere. DAMGOO 50W+50W+100W 2.1 Channel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089KT3FG9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Lol! Nah, they aren't scamming or faking anything. Those binding posts are just made for 2mm banana plugs, not the more common 4mm "standard" plugs.
Thank you for that - do you think this would work?
Thank you - I'm in the U.S. Is this link here the same as the link you sent?
Looks about the same pitch as the 0603 resistor next to it and smaller than than the .1" header. Si my guess is 1.5mm which is close to .060" (0603 components are .06"x.03").
Amazon carries female connectors with wires already soldered on. Amazon Link
OP, please don't short the speaker connection with a paperclip.
Here you go, $5 for a 4 pack of 6 ohm resistors: https://www.amazon.com/Resistor-20inch-Cable-Electrical-Install/dp/B08Q4LDY7H
Yeah. You could either build a Pad (i.e. resistor network — for example All About Pads), or purchase ready made products that do that for you. E.g. something like these 12dB RCA line level attenuators (Amazon).
Also there are transformer based attenuators (e.g. 10:1 -30 dB). They are mainly made for connecting musical instruments to studio equipment. So, their main function is often ground loop interruptions and unbalanced to balanced signal conversion, though.
Fair ... I did not put any delay on the line ... my bad.
> What microphone cartridge type do you use now?
Pretty cheap ones: https://uk.farnell.com/kingstate/kecg2742pbl-a/microphone-electret-condenser/dp/1502742?CMP=i-ddd7-00001003
For the price (and paired with Rods Project 93 they are ok. Ok for close mic'ing my voice for zoom sessions, but too noisy for recording a room.
If appearance isn't too important or you're using bluetooth primarily to get you music, this inexpensive amp is a great solution--mostly because it is enough power and has good subwoofer controls (volume and crossover frequency).
To get full power, you'll need a 24-volt power supply. (I have been using the linked model for about two years with a similar amplifier with no problems).
I let my fingers do the googling and found this little fella.
Check the first review, by Russell.
While not fancy, this basic amp looks do do ok.
Note in that review his “works for me” test is at 80RMS… I wasn’t super clear on RMS so I looked it up, it’s a rating that correlates with watts indicating the wattage a speaker can handle over time and can be thought of as the correct listening level to ensure long speaker life by accounting for peak loads up to maximum and so forth (or that’s what I gathered).
You could easily spend more, and also spend less… I saw a kit for $142 and used is always an option once you’ve got your specs !
Good luck !
Those speakers make great talkback mics. Wire the 8-ohm side of one of these https://www.amazon.com/5PCS-Audio-1300-Transformateur-Transformador/dp/B073RJT7DK/ref=sr\_1\_6?crid=KW0O1RN0JT8C&keywords=audio+transformer&qid=1663099060&sprefix=audio+transformer%2Caps%2C111&sr=8-6
If you look at the 2nd pic you can see how the wires connect to the plug, the shorter one is probably left, the slightly longer one is probably right and the largest part is definitely ground.
Art Cleanbox Pro will raise the input level to work with amps needing higher input voltage.
I want to be absolutely clear on something. The impedance rating of "X Ohms" only sorts the driver into a category on the website or catalog. No crossover designer worth their salt is going to take that rating at face value. They are going to look at the graph and use the value at their crossover point first, and then check again in simulation to make sure the impedance minimum is high enough for the amp. Then they are going to measure the impedance in the enclosure with no crossover and update the simulation model with the new curve and make tweaks as required (sometimes people just skip the first step entirely). This is the way.
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There are no "standards" like you describe. Someone led you horribly astray on what this really means and what it's for. Here is a really good book that will explain it in more detail:
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https://www.amazon.com/Loudspeaker-Design-Cookbook-Vance-Dickason/dp/1882580478
You can buy a toner for tracing telephone wires. You clip a box on the leads at one end fo the cable and then use another device to follow them through the walls and also identify the connected wires on the other end
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Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Tone-Probe-PRO/dp/B07VYN98QV
> hey say the best monitors, and headphones to mix on, are the ones youre used to hearing.
"They" are wrong. The best speakers for mixing have a neutral frequency response, smooth directivity, good bass extension, and are used in a treated room.
Those speakers have a number of obvious problems, like the recessed tweeter with no waveguide, recessed woofer, thin cabinet walls, and unflared port. Nothing unexpected for $85 a pair, and rehousing them would be a waste of time.
My recommendation for mixing work on an extreme budget is a pair of Neumi BS5P for $160.
https://www.amazon.com/75-Watt-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers-Bluetooth/dp/B08LV4SMH9
https://www.erinsaudiocorner.com/loudspeakers/neumi_bs5p_take2/
With the updated firmware + plugged ports, you get an extremely neutral response. There is a 1.5dB bump at 1000Hz which can easily be removed with EQ. The directivity isn't perfect, but pretty good for a typical 2 way bookshelf design.
So you can google "18v 2a power supply 5.5x2.1mm" the plug is 5.5mm long and 2.1mm diameter
The below is the way to go. it's clean power and multiple plugs so you could use it for other projects in the future. 3.5amps so it will work more efficient (less heat, cleaner power, lower power bill....not that it will be driving up the power bill :P )
The speakers are HiVi-Swans M200MKII. Got these on Prime day to replace Klipsch ProMedia THX 2.1 which was being used on my TV setup. The Swans are less wattage overall however the Klipsch have a very poor mid-range which makes dialogue and audio difficult to hear for movies. It has high highs and low lows (thanks to the subwoofer, which was more powerful than necessary; never turned up beyond 20%).
The Swans are taller and have more depth than the previous speakers so putting them on my mantle had them very close to the back wall (manual suggests a certain amount of space from the back), besides the TV was blocking the top tweeters.
Tested the speakers on stands and it really filled the room with sound. With a tilt, it was even better. I’m not crazy about ear/face level stands so I couldn’t find much available in stores that met my needs. After some research on DIY speaker stands I came across one with hairpin legs.
Long story short: hairpin legs were too wide so I found furniture legs that would fit the 7.25” width of the base. Pics show the poplar wood plank that I cut, sand, stained, sealed. Measured the back board just high enough to allow the wires to be unobstructed. Tightened a few screws and tada.
I see what you mean. Products exist to convert Bose QC 25s to wireless so it should be possible.
Likely no microphone though, seems like that’s why Koss went with their solution (I hate neck mount wraparounds too)
Get a 5V regulator that accepts a wide input DC that's within the range of the power supply voltage or some other DC voltage you find in there. Most accept 9-24V input
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This one takes 6-40V input:
https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Regulator-Module-Step-down-Stabilized/dp/B07P435HNX
If I have a portable Bluetooth tailgate speaker with a 10w 6.5" speaker stock in it can i replace it with a say 45w speaker replacement would it work?
The tailgate speaker model:
https://www.amazon.ca/Sylvania-SPA657-B-Rechargeable-6-5-Inch-Bluetooth/dp/B095L28NN8
Hypothetical replacement speaker:
It is $63 for the board itself, and you need an external power supply. A basic 48V 10 amp unit is $37, so $100 total.
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-110V-220V-Converter-Adjustable-Transformer/dp/B08GFQZFC1
That Sure Electronics amp is rated for 350 watts into 3 Ohms, with 1% distortion. The Dayton SPA300-D is rated for 300 watts into 4 Ohms with 1.5% distortion. So pretty comparable in power.
However, the Dayton amplifier has a 5 year warranty. The Sure Electronics amp, and the power supply I linked are only 1 year. That alone is worth $50 in my opinion.
I have a Fosi Audio T20 paired with the Micca RB42 speakers, and the sound is audiophile quality playing CDs.. especially through good DACs like the Bifrost by Schiit, or even straight from the player if it is decent. This combo is really something special.... very engaging... musical with lots of space and detail...great imaging.. non-fatiguing, clarity and detail from a silent background, without glare or grain. This system, with this amazing amp, is an incredible bargain.
The pin spacing almost looks like an IEC320 C7 ("figure 8") connector, like on these cables:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Non-Polarized-Power/dp/B0153T1MHM
The pin spacing on the IEC connector is 8.6mm; you could measure to see if they would fit, or even order one if it looks promising.
Regarding the transformer, check this listing on Amazon.
According to the description:
>No. NPT-1441P 200-NS-340EK. Japan ONKYO Onkyo amplifier
world-renowned audio brands. These new Onkyo power transformers
inventory, sophisticated technology, high quality, the transformer has
passed 220V AC voltage test to ensure that no vibration, no noise, no
short circuit, no hot phenomenon. Copper enameled wire wound,
high quality EI silicon steel, riding clip fixed, iron core volume of 70
high and 60 thick 53mm, power of about 100W. Transformer lead input and
output. Blue, white line input 220V, no-load output voltage of about
12V two copper lines (single 12V), line package core copper foil shield.
Quiet work without interference, for power amplifier, motorcycle, DIY
system, etc., weighing 1.54 kg
The voltage rating on that one isn't high enough. Note that the ones you are replacing are rated at 80v and the one you linked to is only 63v. You need to at least exceed the voltage rating, so anything higher than 80v would work. The one you linked to is a screw variety, so make sure that's what the existing caps are rather than a snap in lead which a lot of amps of that era had.
You also need to know the diameter of the existing caps to make sure the new ones fit inside the capacitor holders.
This one is the same size and lead style, but 100v. Unfortunately they only have one left:
https://cpc.farnell.com/vishay/mal210119682e3/capacitor-100v-6800uf/dp/CA05333
I deeply recommend getting a small amplifier, then. It will avoid the splicing problem now, and even save you from some future headaches.
I can crimp cables though, do that for work all the time.
If I crimp the connectors to the subwoofer wire, and buy this:
https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Digital-Amplifier-Aluminium-Supports-Motorcycles/dp/B08B85JFT4/
Would that work?
These T-amps gives you the most bang for the buck of anything really. This is what you should go for.
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