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Equalizer APO?
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65 reviews of this app found across Reddit:
> sibilance
This goes away after spending a little time with an EQ.
My M50X's spend 90% of their time playing Spotify through my work laptop. It took me a while to find a decent, system-wide EQ for Windows, but I've been having good luck with Equalizer APO. I toned down the highs a bit, and pumped up the lows.
I was looking for a proper system wide EQ ages ago and this is exactly what you are looking for.
Equaliser APO is a system wide equaliser
Peace is a fancy GUI that runs on top of APO.
Equalizer APO is a great one. But I don't think it has been tested with windows 10 yet.
http://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/
If you haven't already dug around Windows yet, it does have it's own built in EQ
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/change-media-player-audio-effects#1TC=windows-7
I had this issue too, and I fixexd it with Equalizer APO + Peace GUI. Download both of them and boost your mic in software (you only have to do this once, even if you restart)
http://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/ http://sourceforge.net/projects/peace-equalizer-apo-extension/
For people with Windows 7+, may I recommend Equalizer APO and this GUI: fPEQGUI
A parametric EQ for your entire system that allows for saving presets and defaults. I don't know what the delay is with this EQ though, does anyone know?
Equalizer APO will do what you want, as long as you're using the standard windows drivers. It's not the most intuitive thing to use, but if you use one of the GUIs, it's much easier to tweak the sound once you've got Equalizer APO installed and working.
I personally like to use the parametric GUI, but the same website also has one with standard EQ sliders.
I ended up using EQ on my HD800 after the brightness made some songs unlistenable. I measured the frequency response using Room EQ Wizard and an EMM-6 mic (made a jig to hold the mic and cover ear pad) and found my peak to be at 5.5 KHz instead of 7-8 KHz that I found on Tyll's plot (Indfidelity.com).
I used Equalizer APO and the parametric gui to bring the peak down and EQ'd the very low end to bring it up to flat. This has achieved audio nirvana for now....
The FiiO E6 and it's predecessor, the FiiO E5, both have a two-level bass boost switch. Also, the Brainwavz AP001 boosts bass; howver, in the case of the AP001, there is no switch, so it's always on. If you were willing to spend as much as the FiiO E10K costs, the JDS Labs cMoyBB v2.03 is another option with a bass boost switch that you might consider.
Other than getting an amplifier that boosts bass, you could try a software equaliser such as Equalizer APO (which you'll want a GUI for, such as PEQGUI-10MC or Peace). It's free, so you may as well at least give it a go before you spend money on an amp.
Had the same problem with a Creative Labs USB headset; thankfully there is a relatively easy fix.
Download and install EqualizerAPO.
Installer will ask you select which devices get EqualizerAPO settings applied to them. Select only the USB headset. Let install finish and reboot when required.
After reboot open the file C:\Program Files\EqualizerAPO\config\config.txt (or create the file yourself if it does not exist)
Add the following line, then save the contents of config.txt
Preamp: -20 dB
Increase or decrease dB setting as required to get desired sound level.
Very tiny/light program, works system wide, and is very powerful with a ton of filter types
There are some GUIs out there if you look around
Hey, I used to have this problem. Netflix volume is too low. I installed EqualizerAPO, it works wonders.
Just remember you need to set the preamp level in config.txt.
Software. get EqualizerAPO and configure it with this (linked from me because the original forum makes you make an account) and google a tutorial. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xu58rviwnb962dh/QpenwUkf09
I found Equalizer APO to be an extremely handy piece of software to get the max out of your current mic. I've ran tests with it and was able to let a cheap mic sound pretty good.
For training: just practice a lot. Try to keep close to your original voice (i.e. don't set up weird voices). It's you that counts, so keep it natural :)
Running into a repeat of the same or a similar issue where people said I was just too quiet to understand, but still transmitting something. I think I've fixed it (again), but I did several things without getting good confirmation because at this hour I can't be sure if no one is responding because they can't hear me or because they don't talk. Or have the same bug as everyone else in here...
Currently working setup:
- Use EqualizerAPO (open source software) to apply a 12 decibal preamp boost on my microphone. (USB microphones cannot use windows boost). Software: http://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/ Youtube tutorial of software: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9I3dVYuHEs&feature=iv&src_vid=J9YybUBeyb8&annotation_id=annotation_3566578233
- Change driver from "C-Media" to generic USB audio on microphone device. Source/guide: http://isogash.blogspot.com/2013/12/how-ti-fixed-usb-microphones-at-100.html
- Set recording threshold to 0, exit game, relaunch game and set it back to 100. If this fixes it, it means one would need to repeat this every time the game closes. (Or set the threshold to 0 before quitting, then return to 50/100 next time)
- Disable exclusive control (microphone settings), Uplay voice beta off.
I believe EqualizerAPO will do this. It is not necessarily the easiest thing to configure, however it works very well in my experience.
Is there a specific reason you would like to avoid using software for recording? Generally, Audacity is easily recommended for simple recording projects, and has a variety of built in utilities for adjusting and fixing sound.
ah yes! Sorry I forgot to update our old thread. In the end I managed to configure it by using equalizerapo as described in this thread.
Oddly enough, the docking clamp produces no vibrations, regardless of how I set the low-pass filter. It's still cool as hell, and made me realize that with my previous setup I was getting the basses only on one of the shakers!
I'm sorry no, but I had a similar setup and was confused why it didn't work, so I googled and read that on the E:D forums somewhere. Yes you'd need to isolate the low frequency sounds for it to be effective. I was using this for a while (it was an earlier version) http://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/ but now I split the output between bluetooth headphones and a buttkicker gamer (using voicemeeter) and the bk has its own lf filter.
I found this very helpful back then: https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/2kd05t/my_free_bass_shaker_equalizerlow_pass_filter_setup/
Equaliser APO with Peace can be used to make a similar frequency, but I encourage you to never ever think somewhat highly of Beats ever again. If you want more bass, you can do it in Eq APO.
Ok, here we go! :D
Equalizer APO is a system-wide equalizer. That's pretty much it. It "attaches" to audio device drivers in Windows, and it's hella flexible. It's text based, so you have to be a little "science" about everything.
What I posted here is a "filter". It's a set of EQ adjustments that "fixes" the EQ. I made these adjustments using a measurement microphone that measures the actual true frequency response of the headphones. These EQ settings managed to, in my case, remove a lot of the "bias/hype" in my headphones.
So these are the settings you would have to paste into a .txt file to get my adjustments :)
it's free software, and not too hard to use either, if you just read the Wiki!
I just had to do this with 4 songs on my upcoming album.
The first thing I recommend doing is implementing room correction. Achieving congruent sound across the board is pointless if the sound is heavily biased by your speakers and room. I used a vocal condenser mic (a reference mic would be ideal), http://www.roomeqwizard.com, and http://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/ to get the job done. Make sure you find a freq response chart for your mic to compensate for it's fallacies.
The next thing to do is to take all of your tracks and throw them into a new project. Now add in a few reference tracks. Find your song that is closest sounding to the reference tracks and start there. Tweak it with EQ and gain until you're satisfied it sounds as professional as possible. Then work your way down to your other songs, tweaking them until they sound right.
Once you have all of these adjustments, take screenshots (I use http://puush.me) of the adjustments and then go back to the individual projects of each song. During the previous steps you will have picked out which elements of the songs need tweaking the most, and in the project file you can fix those individual elements before polishing them with an EQ on the master bus. Doing it this way will result in a superior sound vs simply affecting a stereo mix-down in the traditional mastering sense.
I haven't used that myself, but I use EqualizerAPO for Windows, and Boom 2 for OS X, both of which are system-wide equalizers. EqualizerAPO is extremely customizable, and is easy to use with the Peace plugin.
Since you're using your PC as your source, have you ever tried EQ with the HD800 to see if you can introduce some warmth and additional extension? Just this week I installed Equalizer APO and after some gain at the low end and a cut at the treble resonance peak, my new HD800 just stepped up a notch in performance. I wonder how the improved bass compares to the other cans that are known for their low-end?
I assume you have already turned the LF trim control on the back all the way down (-3dB)?
Those are bass reflex speakers, have you experimented with stuffing the port on the back? You can often adjust bass levels by stuffing the reflex port more or less.
Another option if you're running Windows may be a system wide EQ like "Equalizer APO": http://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/ with a GUI like "Peace" for ease of use perhaps: http://sourceforge.net/projects/peace-equalizer-apo-extension/
With an EQ like that you don't have to fiddle with EQ in different programs, you can just set it up once for your speakers and be done with it.
If you don't have a sub, you can just use Equalizer APO.
If you want to add a sub again later, you'll have to either get an active divider to put some caps in the lines going to your A5s.
Equalizer APO from sourceforge - http://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/
You can get various GUI's to control it.
Here's one (I've not used it as I just manually set it myself in the config file and don't need a GUI): http://sourceforge.net/projects/peace-equalizer-apo-extension/
"Bass control software" doesn't exist as far as I know
You can use a parametric equalizer like EqualizerAPO to boost the bass frequencies, that will give you very good control over how much bass you have
I just started playing around with this and REW V5 (Room EQ Wizard). If you're really into audio and willing to go the lengths they talk about in the tutorial, you can do some really cool stuff.
I honestly didn't do the full set up like they told me to, I just installed the two programs which work together to some extent, and started playing around with the configuration file. I have yet to master this.
Both the options you listed are not as good as the SRH840s.
OP: You like the smiley face eq curve. If it sounds good to you then do it. Music is about enjoyment. Try downloading this and playing around until you get it sounding to how you like. Download here: Equalizer APO
Equalizer APO.
Download it here: http://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/
After you download you are going to want to run the installer. At some point it will ask you to select which devices you want to use the equalizer on. Select your headphones now.
Let the install finish then reboot.
After you reboot open the file C:\Program Files\EqualizerAPO\config\config.txt
, delete the contents and replace it with
Preamp: -12 dB
Hey, you remember! XD Rimworld really is a fantastic game and I'm sure it'll end up in a Steam sale sometime. It's worth the full price but everything's better on sale, for sure. Thanks for the compliments! I've definitely considered streaming but unfortunately my internet doesn't really support it, it's pretty awful. I use a pretty cheap MPOW headset I found on Amazon for like $40-$60. It's surprisingly good quality for the price. I also use an in-line EQ: http://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo https://sourceforge.net/projects/peace-equalizer-apo-extension/ I really appreciate the feedback and hope you enjoy the Kingdom Come playthrough if you get around to watching it! I've been meaning to do a Hardcore playthrough with the new DLC they've released so that might be incoming.
While yes, most media player apps have EQ controls, there are very few system wide, real time equalizers that are not part of the audio drivers. For windows 7 and up there is Equalizer APO. There is also Viper4Windows, which does a bit more than just EQ.
You can just use the EQ on foobar or musicbee. If you're looking for system wide software this works well http://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/ (windows)
I listened to the dt990s unEQed happily for years until my HD650 showed me the way 😅 enjoy your new gear!
Is it an older Insignia? I don't remember them having a digital coax/optical input.
You don't need to buy a sound card to get an equalizer. Check out Equalizer APO for Windows.
What exactly do you mean with stereo mix? Balance?
Anyway, the best (at least free) EQ program for windows I know is Equalizer APO. Install it, then run it to configure the desired audio devices, then reboot. The program by itself only works with config files and does not have a GUI. To get a nice GUI, download Peace and put it's executable into the config folder of Equalizer APO.
Links:
Equalizer APO
Peace
Edit: I just noticed some screenshot on the Equalizer APO page. Seems like they made an update and it now comes with an UI? You might not even need Peace, then.
I have m50's and am an audiophile. For listening, onboard audio is totally fine. I can't speak for the microphone part. The only suggestion I have is to use a better OS-wide equalizer than the ones that come with onboard audio software. This will give you the ability to truly modify the sound to your liking. With one of these my 'cleaner' deeper-bass heavy preferences (below the 60hz emphasis of most equalizers) were satisfied to beyond the highest volumes I like. This is evidence to me that the Realtek system (and likely any onboard system) produces enough power to drive headphones any way you like. And the M50's have a very detailed and wide frequency response for the money.
This equalizer is free and provides arbitrary frequency selection and I'm pretty sure there's no limit to the number of frequencies you can add to it: http://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/
You'll want a free UI for it as well: http://sourceforge.net/projects/peace-equalizer-apo-extension/
Also, if you haven't already, set your headphone audio device (or any others you might use) to output 24bit 192khz. The M50's absoulutely can display the detail of this when it's present. And plenty of audio goes beyond the default setting Windows gives any audio device by default.
$110 + tax is more accurate than your $80 + tax when it's $87 + tax. So, $23 + tax difference.
> With the FiiO D5, do you have an extensive EQ where you can turn the bass down and treble all the way up? To soundwhore in a game like CoD4 or Black Ops II, for example, this Sound Blaster is EXACTLY what you'd want to buy (at this price range).
YES YOU CAN. You do that via software. You can do that with any audio output.
Something like this.
This card has value but only if you want to drive high-impedance headphones and have surround sound output, and can't do that with your onboard card.
So it looks like I'd have to use some sort of software to hook into my audio driver and filter it out? Do you think something like this would work?
Edit: Also how did you go about creating that graphic?
Well I'm honestly not sure, never needed to do this. I know Pro Tools 11+ can, but that's a lot of money to do what you are requesting.
Why don't you just use the computer you will be routing it to to make the changes? It's relatively simple. Here's the first thing that came up on google.
This is the software I used to lower the volume of all audio output to make this game tolerable http://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/ and the tutorial http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=123956
Many soundcard/headphone combinations are either not loud enough, or too loud. With speakers you usually have some external amplifier with a knob to control the volume, not so much with headsets. The windows mixer allows for some volume control, which should ideally range from "silent" to "quite loud but still safe & comfortable".
But you can't really control that range properly.
The nicest road to take is to buy an amplifier, hook up your PC (preferably using a digital connection), and attach headphones to the amplifier. That often costs a lot of money though.
First check all the settings for your device using the "Playback devices" panel (right-click tray icon, playback devices, double click your device).
If that doesn't help, you could try 3rd party software. Audio Compressor & Limiter (Free), EqualizerAPO (Free, Open Source) could help. They allow you to amplify, decrease loudness, equalize and do many other things.
http://www.trust.com/en/product/19116-gxt-340-7-1-surround-gaming-headset#downloads
Third column, choose your OS and download.
Download and use this http://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/ if the software doesn't help with your volume issue. It's probably the surround sound feature that's causing the loudness. Try to use their software to find a good setting, if not use the equalizerapo.
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=123956 for instructions to fix the volume issue with equalierapo.
If your sound card drivers aren't too messed up, you can try Equalizer APO along with a frontend
http://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/ http://sourceforge.net/projects/peace-equalizer-apo-extension/
I also recommend Equalizer APO along combined with Peace GUI. This equalizer will affect all programs in Windows whereas the iTunes equalizer will only work with sound played through iTunes itself.
Also, as a suggestion to avoid clipping, adjust the pre-amp to a negative value to offset your frequency boost.
Before you go blow money on hardware, try EqualizerAPO.
Run the installer, it will ask you to select which device(s) to use the equalizer on. Select your ModMic (or the Microphone input for the audio device your ModMic is plugged into). Let the install finish, then reboot.
After reboot, open the file C:\Program Files\EqualizerAPO\config\config.txt, delete the contents and replace it with the following:
Preamp: +20db
Save the file, test mic volume, adjust db setting up or down as required.
If you can't select the ModMic specifically, or you can't select a specific audio input during install, then you may have to select your usual sound card and adjust the config.txt like so, (leaving your audio device name; I've used a Corsair here as an example)
Device: Corsair Vengeance 1500 Headset Speakers Preamp: -14db
Device: Corsair Vengeance 1500 Headset Microphone Preamp: +20db
That setting lowers the headset speaker volume while raising the gain on the microphone input, because my headset is way too loud. Leave that adjustment out of your setting.
Something like this might help for windows as a whole: Equalizer APO
I haven't used it, so I cannot comment on how well it works. Here are some alternatives.
http://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/
Make sure you run the configurator to install the program to the correct playback device. Then make sure you restart your PC.
I use it to change between PC mode and TV mode with my 5.1 speaker system. This program when in PC mode allows me to make my right speaker output the rear right channel, right rear speaker output the rear left channel, left speaker output the right channel and half volume center channel, and rear left speaker output the left channel and half volume center channel.
Here is my config.txt file:
"
If: readRegDWORD("HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\EqualizerAPO", "PCMode") == 1
Copy: R=RR RR=RL L=R+0.5*C RL=L+0.5*C C=0
Endif:
# Switches HT channels to PC channels
"
Here is the reference wiki page to make your own config file: http://sourceforge.net/p/equalizerapo/wiki/Configuration%20reference/
I haven't tested it, but based on your diagram, this should probably be your config.txt file if you wanted PC mode to be a 2.1 with the computer placed directly behind the couch so that your rear right is to your left when sitting at computer and rear left is to your right when sitting at computer. In short, this will make your rear right speaker output the left channel, rear left channel, and half the center channel; your rear left speaker will output the right channel, rear right channel, and half the center channel.
"
If: readRegDWORD("HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\EqualizerAPO", "PCMode") == 1
Copy: R=0 RR=L+0.5*C+RL L=0 RL=R+0.5*C+RR C=0
Endif:
# Switches HT channels to PC channels
"
And here is my bat file I run when I want to run PC mode "reg add "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\EqualizerAPO" /v PCMode /t REG_DWORD /d 1 /f "
And here is the bat file I run when i want to run TV mode "reg add "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\EqualizerAPO" /v PCMode /t REG_DWORD /d 0 /f"
I use this. Once installed go to the installation directory and enter the config file, change the DB level to accommodate for low sound.
I have a Corsair Vengence 2100 and the mic was VERY low until I found this, works like a charm
At the time i used my built in sound blaster EQ.
However if your asus card has no such thing, the next best thing is equalizer APO
http://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/
Make sure to also install peace GUI for ease of use:
http://sourceforge.net/projects/peace-equalizer-apo-extension/
> I also found some dsp corrections from noaudiophile for the miccas i bought and was wondering how to make those corrections.
http://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/
On a side note, how funny is that, a brand new version of EQAPO was literally just released 30 minutes ago at the time I posted that link. There hasn't been a single download yet.
Just make sure if you are using EQAPO, do not use ASIO or WASAPI to play music as is commonly recommended, because it will bypass the EQAPO altogether.
>Is there something I can purchase so that I can switch between my speakers and headphones without having to manually change which 35mm cable is plugged in
Should be able to get a 3.5mm switcher from eBay or something fairly cheap.
If you want systemwide equalization I can recommend you to use Equalizer APO
As far as settings go I cannot really offer you any help since I don't own a pair of the 668b. I'm sure that someone else can chime in as far as actual EQ settings are concerned. Many users report that the 668b are a little too euphoric in the higher frequencies
The latest update has removed support for apps. Equalify.me used to be the go-to equalizer for Spotify, but the free version will no longer be updated post v1.0.1. They will release a pro version soon which will work with the update.
Many soundcards have their own equalizers built in. The generic Realtek drivers for most systems also have a (somewhat unimpressive) equalizer. Beyond that, there are also system wide equalizers which can be used to great effect. One example is Equalizer APO. For swapping between playback devices, there are also solutions for this. CheVolume allows for you to control volume output on a program-by-program basis.
We are currently asking that users limit their discussion about update related issues to the sticky. We've seen this question a lot in the subreddit since Equalify's untimely demise. Let me know if you have any other questions!
The latest update has removed support for apps. Equalify.me used to be the go-to equalizer for Spotify, but the free version will no longer be updated post v1.0.1. They will release a pro version soon which will work with the update.
Many soundcards have their own equalizers built in. The generic Realtek drivers for most systems also have a (somewhat unimpressive) equalizer. Beyond that, there are also system wide equalizers which can be used to great effect. One example is Equalizer APO
Assuming your source is your computer why don't you use equalizer APO and cut the lower frequencies a few dB. Unfortunately that set doesn't have an adjustable sub like a lot of the logitech sets do. I'm kind of surprised by that. You could also try plugging the port with a sock or piece of foam.
Yeah, nothing wrong the Emotiva amps they are spectacular, but want separate channels to DSP the drivers individually for delay etc. Long term it would be cool to run everything through multiple sound cards and using Equalizer APO ( http://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/ ) for all DSP needs. Unfortunately only IIR, but extremely powerful in combination with REW and the computing power of a standard PC.
APOequalizer then make a new preset and config it to your ears/headset there is also a GUI available if you find that easier (http://sourceforge.net/projects/peace-equalizer-apo-extension/)
You could use an EQ
http://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/
Other options are:
Stuck a sock or something in the ports of the speakers
Move them away from the wall if they are close to it
Right click your volume slider, click playback devices, right click the device that you are using (usually speakers/headphones, if you have sound playing you should see the volume reacting in green), click properties, go to enhancements, and mess with those settings. If you don't have the enhancements option you could try Equalizer APO but I haven't tried this out before.
Sometimes it can help but it's not always a guarantee. Some cheaper 2.1 systems just suck ass, especially if you can't adjust the bass that's terrible.
I don't know about outboard but for the PC I've had good results with Equalizer APO and Peace.
You could use a 3rd party equalizer to act as a pre-amp. I have the opposite problem with a USB headset; it's way too loud at even the lowest volume. So I use the pre-amp setting in the (free) Equalizer APO to lower the input volume by 25db.
You could do the reverse and boost pre-amp volume across one or many sound devices.
http://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/
Don't bother with the Room EQ Wizard, it's not necessary for your purposes.
After installation and reboot, open up the following file:
C:\Program Files\EqualizerAPO\config\config.txt
Inside there should be a line like this (if not, add it):
Preamp: 12 dB
Adjust the numeric value to whatever sounds good to you.
You could use something like EqualizerAPO to get system-wide equalization. There are GUI plugins for it as well.
>..< opps i mis read that lol i thought u said procaster :D thats the one i have sorry. since its use i think the best thing you can use is EQ software http://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/ try this. i use it sometimes to get a little more effects
EQ is the easiest way. Get this piece of software and use this program with it. It's really, really good IMO. Goes all the way from 20Hz to 20kHz.
EDIT: Just read the fact that you just got the setup. In which case, just use them for a week. Your brain will naturally get used to those highs.
Thanks for sharing, but I was looking for config files specifically for this equalizer. http://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/
I ended up making a few myself. Foobar EQ only works for Foobar, Equalizer APO works Windows-wide. For Foobar, VLC player, Video Games, YouTube, etc.
I was reading articles where they were disabling Beats for testing. Have you tried googling "disable beats <your model number>?"
Worst case, you could use Equalizer APO as a wedge to shape the sound how you want it.
As a workaround until such an option is added in BF4, if ever, I found a program called Equalizer APO which lets you modify the -/+ db for individual devices, such as the microphone. This worked perfectly to resolve my microphone input volume deficiency.
You install the program, restart Windows and edit the config.txt located in its installation folder. You don't have to restart each time you edit the txt file, it's done on-the-fly.
Copy the below format into your config.txt (this is device and language specific, in case your OS isn't English). Modify the device name and preamp values specific to your setup and preference, this is just an example.
<----Config.txt--------------------------------------> Device: Corsair Vengeance 1500 Headset Speakers Preamp: -10db
Device: Corsair Vengeance 1500 Headset Microphone Preamp: +20db <----end file----------------------------------------->
Credit goes to Meervluis on the Corsair Audio forums for posting this tip!