What are /r/audio's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

Looks like you need a mixer, not just a splitter. Something like this. If you were just splitting one source to two headphones, ok. But when you combine two output devices to one input you need a mixer.

Turn your game sounds down. If you have to play wearing headphones for prolonged periods of time turn it down real quiet. No specific frequencies are making your tinnitus worse, just high sound pressure level (SPL).

Use your speakers more if you can, but again not loud. There are apps available for your phone which can give a rough indication of SPL from your speakers.

This site from the British Tinnitus Association has excellent information and advice. Given that you're already noticing a problem you should take steps immediately.

Good luck, winning a game isn't worth damaging your ears.

What are you speakers and what is your use case?

If this is just for home, you don't need an amp anywhere near what the maximum speaker power rating is. That maximum is a "do not exceed" limit, which would let the smoke out. Realistically in order to reach 250W/channel you're looking at a professional PA type amp like this Crown XLS 1002.

Have no idea about them but they're only selling for about 35 bucks on ebay

Definitely looks like a great deal, but don't think you grabbed a diamond in rough by any means.

Could be very wrong, but those look like slots for crossover plug in units for oldie days biamp systems.

Edit here is a link to support my theory. https://books.google.com/books?id=2nKLKDKa3K0C&pg=PA68&lpg=PA68&dq=active+crossover+network+plug+in&source=bl&ots=t9R1xDP_w4&sig=mP2UOmuQg_SnPUkL6Br89UhKgsg&hl=en&sa=X&ei=-Z76VLmaL4adygTo94LYAw&ved=0CFYQ6AEwCg

The Digital Domain: A Demonstration. Used copies on Amazon seem pretty cheap.

What is it? That is, is it a cable to headphones, speakers, other?

I'm going to guess headphones. Specifically what are the headphones - Brand and Model?

Some headphones can be detached at the Phones themselves. If that is true then simply buy a new cable. If the Headphones cables are captured, then as suggested by the other poster, if you are handy at soldering, and you have the tools, you can cut the cable, but leave about 1/2" of wire on the connector end so you can use an Ohm Meter to determine which part of the cable goes to which part of the connector.

The connector has Tip, Ring, Sleeve. The most common connection is -

• Tip = Left
• Ring = Right
• Sleeve = Ground

I don't know the color of the wires in the cable, so I will just guess - Red, White, Shield - in which case it could be like this -

• Tip = White
• Ring = Red
• Sleeve = Shield

But if you have a bit of extra wire, say 1/2" and an Ohm Meter, you can figure out which colored wire goes to the Tip, the Ring, and the Sleeve.

Again, it would be nice to know the brand and model of whatever that connector is attached to so we can look it up.

https://www.amazon.com/Antrader-Stereo-Male-Connector-Spring-Solder-Adapter-Pack/dp/B07CMY61H3/

https://www.amazon.com/SiYear-Headphone-Replacement-Adapter-Connector/dp/B07WZT7QGL/

I've got the Sansa Clip+.... And I'd highly recommend installing RockBox on it. It'll play many more different types of audio formats... And it should help with the tagging because you can play by folders not by tags :)

http://www.rockbox.org

If you have Matlab, you should use it instead of Octave, it's probably a lot faster.

To get the audio file into a format usable by Matlab, use SoX (http://sox.sourceforge.net/). The conversion is very simple: run sox recording.mp3 recording.mat. That's it, you get a struct in matlab that has a wavedata variable that has all the sample values you need. For example, to plot it, first load the file with y=load('recording.mat'); then run plot plot(y.wavedata), or if it's stereo, plot one channel with plot(y.wavedata(1,:))

That mic is designed to work only with a wireless mic pack.

The reason you can't find an adapter is because what you need isn't as simple as an adapter. The connector is 4 pin because it's not just am audio connector. The wireless pack also provides bias power to make the mic actually work.

You need this preamp/power supply from Shure to make this mic work in a regular XLR input: https://www.amazon.com/Shure-RK100PK-Resistant-Inline-Preamp/dp/B000Z0EP3I/ref=asc_df_B000Z0EP3I/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309780951986&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=625195117185249523&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&h...

You may find other "adapters" but none of them other than this one will provide the correct power to the mic to make the mic work properly.

It's literally just dust, oxidation, etc. inside the part.

Your volume slider is a form of potentiometer. These work by having a sort of wire (straight or curved) which another piece slides against as you adjust it. The signal flows through the point where they make contact, so if they don't make good contact, it acts flaky.

One thing that might help move it back and forth a whole bunch of times. Sometimes this will clean it enough to get it working again.

A more effective solution is to get some electrical contact cleaner and spray it into the slider, then move it back and forth a few times to spread it around.

There are a lot of brands. Personally I like DeoxIT D5. Amazon also has CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner, which I haven't used, but it gets good reviews and is cheaper. (And both products' reviews have several mentions of people using them to fix noisy volume controls.)

It's a 1/4" trs stereo headphone jack and I assume your question relates to a set of headphones you have that terminate in the 1/8" trs plug. so you need something like this:

https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-6-35mm-Adapter-Headphone-Digital/dp/B00EL9V5XW/ref=asc_df_B00EL9V5XW/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292937904646&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6934554147051182415&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001629&hvtargid=pla-632573870112&psc=1

I’m with u/alexlorenzato... best cheap headphones I’ve ever heard are skullcandy ink’d buds that were like $10-12 USD on amazon. Keep in mind they’re cheap headphones but my kids go through them so its worth it. Not my Klipsch X20i but if you’re on that tight a budget, I don’t think you’ll hear any better.

You might try these from Amazon they have a 4.5 star rating (139) and they’re also cheap.

A mixer. Look for JustMixer on Amazon. They make something that'll do just that

https://www.amazon.com/JUST-MIXER-Audio-DJ-Mixer/dp/B01LPT8JY8/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1523361241&sr=1-1&keywords=just+mixer

I highly recommend AirPlay by Apple. You can get a relatively cheap airport express and either use iTunes or a 3rd party took to stream music to your hifi. Airport express has analog 1/8 stereo mini output and optical digital.

https://www.apple.com/airport-express/

Is use Rouge Amoeba's Airfoil software to stream audio from my collection and from various streaming services to my system.

http://rogueamoeba.com

well to start, those are crap speakers either way. two 3.5" woofers means they will have zero bass, which completely defeats the purpose of tower speakers

second, you screwed up by not doing proper research. most speakers (aka passive speakers) have wire terminals where you connect them to an amplifier

you can buy a cheap amp on Amazon for $20 which will work. but my honest recommendation is to sell those speakers for whatever you can get and getting these Dayton bookshelf speakers and this Lepai amp. it'll sound better than those 'towers' and take up less room. yes, it'll cost a bit more (depending on what you can sell the Monster towers for), but if you plan on listening to anything bass heavy, you'll appreciate the better quality speakers (note: yes I know the B652s don't measure anywhere near flat, but for a layman, they're a good first step)

Ya, that's not going to do what you want... It's not converting anything but the plug housing. It's optical in and out. It is not making a 3.5mm stereo analog signal.

You need a 3.5mm jack that looks exactly like the end of your headphones, with 2 black bands separating the 3 metal bands.

Also, depending on the turntable, you might have more issues. If the turntable has a standard rca plug on it (red and white), then you need to plug that into a port labeled phono. Any other port, and your music will sound bad, no bass, lo fi. Phono input jacks have a special eq curve built in to make up for subtractive eq used when pressing the record.

I'm sure there is a device to do what you want. Digital optical in, analog stereo 3.5mm out.

Something like this is more what you want

OREI Digital to Analog Audio Converter - Optical SPDIF/Coaxial to RCA L/R with 3.5mm Jack Support Headphone/Speaker Output DA21 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B008EPW7TA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ApZeCbEJ6RE1F

Also, cheapest phono preamp on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HJ1TTQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_srZeCb44108CZ

Here from Amazon.

Equalizer APO runs in Windows and can do all sorts of EQ and other filters. I use fpeqgui as a means to create parametric EQs but the page that hosts it seems to be gone. I found Peace Equalizer which seems can also give you a GUI to control Equalizer APO.

Sounds like it was poorly downconverted from 5.1 to stereo.

Simply changing the audio codec won't improve it (in fact a lossy -losy transcode will be worse). You'll probably want at least need some combination of DR compression / limiter / normalization to make it better.

What's most effective will depend on the specific issues in your file, but you could try the techniques using ffmpeg at http://superuser.com/questions/323119/how-can-i-normalize-audio-using-ffmpeg but you might be better off ~~sourcing a better version of the movie~~ re-ripping your DVD paying proper attention to the audio.

M4A to WAV converter

M4A to MP3 converter

I haven't either but they both have promising ratings. Should do the trick.

You're just further showing why people are responding to you the way they are.

That website is chock full of crap gear designed to be sold to people who don't know audio. Their "reviews" don't have frequency response graphs at all, so what real testing are they doing? They don't list their source, they don't list their amp, they don't even list the specs of the headphones. What is the frequency range? The sensitivity? The resistance? They give absolutely zero information that someone who was into audio, particularly headphones, would want.

http://www.innerfidelity.com/reviews

Go look there if you want reviews on better quality headphones.

Those zipper products are just rebranded stuff from chinese OEMs, companies go to the manufacturers of products like these https://www.aliexpress.com/popular/zipper-headphones.html and then get them to do production runs with their own branding on it.

They don't seem too hard to find, but they seem to fetch "collectors" prices.

Mac or PC?

For Mac, check out QLab, which might be overkill but can definitely route tracks to different hardware outputs. I think you have to have the 'basic' level to route to external hardware (ie: the USB interface).

What you're looking for is something to "demultiplex" ("demux") the movie into its constituent audio and video streams.

My quick and not-actually-dirty method is to use mkvToolnix to make an MKV copy of the movie and then mkvextract GUI to demux the individual streams out of that.

From there, depending on what format the audio is actually in, you should be able to decode it to PCM WAV which Audacity will of course happily accept.

If you'd like, you can send the movie file to me and I can see what I can do with it.

There are 2 ways that a computer or CD player can get track names from a CD.

1) Computer software looks at the CDDB (Gracenote) or FreeDB or another online database. Usually this is done using track length information. Of course, you need to submit the initial information for your CD after burning it. This can be done by most CDDB-aware apps somewhere in their menus once you have entered the information manually. It can take time for the information you submit to be validated and appear in the database.

More info

2) CD-TEXT: This is an extension of the redbook audio CD standard that allows for track metadata to be saved. Quite a few CD burners out there support CD-TEXT, however it never fully caught on everywhere so not all that many CD players or computer players out there supports it.

More info

Neither one is going to cover all bases. The redbook spec just wasn't designed with metadata in mind.

Edit: i a word

Echoing Audacity. It's a terrific free program!

Now, is the recording sped up in a "vinyl record" sense, as in pitched up as well? Or was it time compressed (same pitch, but faster tempo)?

If the former, use "Change Speed" from the Audacity's "Effect" menu and input your desired "New Length" at the bottom. This should theoretically provide you a nice clean re-pitched output file.

If the latter, use "Change Tempo" from the Effect menu, and adjust to taste (-17.857% appears to be the ticket). This method could provide undesirable artifacts, depending on the nature and complexity of your source file. I don't use Audacity, so I'm not really sure what pitch/time algorithms are under the hood (nor do I see any options at first glance).

If you're not getting decent results, you're welcome to PM me your file and I'll happily run it through Cubase/Elastique Pro for ya. I was actually just doing some music pitching/stretching for a client this very evening =)

Yep, can be really bad. Don't use y connectors to connect 2 sources to one output. You can connect one source to 2 outputs but never the other way around.

You could possibly plug your turntable into your computer input and pass it through. Otherwise you need a mixer in there to combine the signals. Something like this mixer on amazon for rca.

If you want an inexpensive SPL meter, get an app for your phone.

Otherwise this one is the first one that appears on Amazon.

My other comment copy/pasted:

That mic is designed to work only with a wireless mic pack.

The reason you can't find an adapter is because what you need isn't as simple as an adapter. The connector is 4 pin because it's not just an audio connector. The wireless pack also provides bias power to make the mic actually work.

You need this preamp/power supply from Shure to make this mic work in a regular XLR input: https://www.amazon.com/Shure-RK100PK-Resistant-Inline-Preamp/dp/B000Z0EP3I/ref=asc_df_B000Z0EP3I/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309780951986&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=625195117185249523&hvpone=&...

You may find other "adapters" but none of them other than this one will provide the correct power to the mic to make the mic work properly.

These are most often used with wireless rigs where the battery powered beltbpack has that style connector. Look for a TA4M to XLRM adapter. This Adapter plus an XLR male to male should work.

The problem is you can't connect two outputs together because one will take power from the other. Also, without some amplification you lose volume when you need to combine two or more sources. The solution is a mixer. This one is inexpensive and will do what you need.

Use 3.5mm to 1/4-inc cables, one for each computer.

Hope this helps.

I didn’t realize about the standards but this makes sense based on what I’ve seen the past year with people buying stuff on Amazon and wondering why their _____ sessions still sound like crap. There’s a cheap “Amazon” lav that I’ve had decent results with on PC & Mac and iPhone & Android - this. This isn’t a fake review, just an honest assessment of what has worked in a pinch in a few situations.

You really need to separate the functions into a mixer and a separate audio interface for each computer. This interface will give each computer a stereo input and output. Then use a small mixer to feed both computers. By using the 2-track outputs/inputs for one of the computers you could easily switch back and forth or mix from one to the other.

the manual says that the outputs are balanced, so you are correct that the outputs can be used with TRS cables IF you are sending to a device that has balanced inputs. If not ( sending to an unbalanced device) TR would do the trick.

It looks like your speakers accept Balanced inputs into a combo jack that accepts 1/4 TRS or XLR, so you would need either a TRS 1/4 male to XLR male or a 1/4 TRS male to 1/4 TRS male cable to connect the speakers. Either cable would do fine

What are your inputs to the scarlet?

Yes it needs phantom power. You can get an audio interface like a Scarlet /Moto/SSL/Beringer and connect the AT2020 to that or you can get an adapter like this for the mic. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0719KPL7W/

I would suggest the JBL Flip 3 - $80 on Amazon right now. Decently powerful, portable, and warm. I've been happy with it.

there are dongles for 1/4male -> 1/8females just not in that angle, you can find them all over amazon

1/4female -> 1/8female is a bit harder... you might need to connect 2 or more adaptors to get to female->female, something like this and this

Line level is a weak audio signal, (nowhere near 150w,) produced by a preamp inside of the receiver and that weak signal has to be sent to an amplifier to be amplified in order to power the speakers.

If your receiver had been designed for a non-powered subwoofer there would be subwoofer speaker terminals to connect a non-powered subwoofer to. Your receiver has speaker terminals for Fronts, Center and Surrounds only. The subwoofer outputs means your receiver was designed for using a powered subwoofer.

The reason there are 2 subwoofer outs on the back of your receiver is for connecting 2 powered subwoofers to it when the setup is in a very large room that needs more umph! in the bass end. The R and L is just for knowing which line goes to which subwoofer if 2 are used, not for right and left channels, because the low end audio spectrum is mono, not stereo.

Another reason for the 2 subwoofer outputs is for using a powered, dual voice coil subwoofer, those have 2 inputs on the back of them.

Anyway; The ratings for your Sony receiver on Amazon are incorrect. They may be incorrect in your user's manual too.

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-STRDH550-5-2-Channel-Receiver/dp/B00J30GXW2

What model is your receiver? Those are proprietary connectors but there are universal adapters you can buy, like these ones on Amazon. You just need to verify that they are compatible. Amazon Link

I would use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SRWZ77L/

There are also solid, one-piece adapters, but I would avoid those because those 3.5mm jacks are rather fragile, and putting the whole large 1/4 inch plug mass putting torque on the 3.5mm jack will eventually break the 3.5mm jack on your computer. And that is a difficult thing to fix, but very preventable.

Note that if you have a high-impedance version of the BeyerDynamic DT990 (250 ohm), you may not get the kind of sound levels you want from a typical modern headphone output (like your computer) So there are external "booster" headphone amplifiers that you may need unless you have the low-impedance (32 ohm or 90 ohm) version of the DT990.

Something like this. Google for "3.5 mm switch box" for other choices. *disclaimer I've never used this, no idea if it's good, it's just an example. https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Audio-Switcher-Headphone-Selector/dp/B0787X4J4V/

You’re adding a ground to your electrical, it can only make things safer really. Do you have a sliding window? If so just get a flat wire and close the window on it, maybe put some weather stripping in if it gets cold.

Wire it to one of these and then plug in a grounded power strip, and then all of your audio equipment can be grounded.

Leviton 274-000 Grounding Adapter, Gray, 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H5WGJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jn9LBbW3JRGRC

One tip: Amps with RCA speaker terminals are usually crap. Also that Soundesign stereo is junk, most Soundesign stuff is junk.

I can’t find much info online except this Facebook Marketplace listing for one. From what I can tell, the stereo is so crappy that the labels on the back are for a different model, but they just printed the same label on the wrong models. As you can see that there is no other inputs on the back, but the labels on the back say there are. Same how the left and right speaker outputs don’t line up with the left and right labels.

My guess: On a similar model there was a 12 volt output, but on yours there is not. The speaker outputs don’t have any kind of 12 volt on them. Speakers don’t require any separate signal, just the signal from the amplifier circuitry. Sending 12 volts to lower powered speakers would cause harm, if not death. 12 volts can easily damage the speakers’ voice coils, if not completely kill them.

A speaker without a fuse or breaker (most consumer speakers don’t have either) would be damaged by the direct voltage. A similar model amp probably had the 12 volt out to power something like an external CD player or turntable. I would recommend going back to Best Buy and picking up a receiver, they usually have a decent selection of Denons, Pioneers, Yamahas, and other name brands. I’d put the Soundesign on the curb for a junk guy to take, it’s junk.

Depends on your budget, you can pick up a base model denon such as the AVR-1513 for less than $250.

ok, I think I may be able to pick up a nice denon receiver for ~$150-$200. Any one you would suggest to look at? I know I get good prices on Denon, Yamaha, Klipsch, and Polk equipment. Those and sonos, but I figured I would just look into the connects later down the road. Any other towers/subs you would suggest over the ones listed?

The other towers I was looking at were these

Klipsch KF-26

I've never seen that before, did the TV come with the component adapter or did you buy that? As for the sound, seems there is a secondary in to the left that says it's for component audio input. I assume you would need a 3.5 to female RCA or a 3.5 to male with barrel adapters. They also sell these Wii to HDMI though I've never used one. Also, sidenote, I know this isn't what you asked, but you can probably get a uses wiiu pretty cheap at the moment since the new console comes out in March. It plays wii games and has HDMI out on it.

So here is my shot at the first track. In getting rid of most of the crackle it actually affected a lot of the same frequencies in the voice. So I apologize that it's not too clear. I will continue to work on it though. I can get the other tracks to this point as well if you want, but again it's not that great.

I am trying as well but there is a LOT of noise and the voice is very close in freq. A great challenge. I did this once with my grandfathers old reel to reel.

https://soundcloud.com/lostwars/grandpa-dubrees-tape-machine-recording

200W output amplifier with RCA input. Something like this.

For a very old, outdated and frankly cheap chinese set of standard computer speakers you are going through a lot of trouble. There really is no logical reason in spending $100 to fix what is a $50 set of speakers.

Perhaps this is too complicated for her, but I would recommend an external hard drive for about $100. She could keep an iTunes library on that hard drive and rip her CDs into it. Then she would have an easy way to play her music anywhere in the house. If you also add an Apple TV to that, then she can stream her music to her television and listen to the music on the speakers in her apartment.

Perhaps you could do the work for her and help copy the music to the hard drive using iTunes.

I know a lot of people will say that iTunes is not the best app out there, but I find it to be very easy to use and, on the highest settings, it rips a pretty good MP3 from a CD. I have been using it since it first was launched, and I have never had any issues. I'm very happy with it.

Make sure you go into iTunes before converting any of the CDs and make sure that it is ripping to the MP3 format. Choose a suitably high bit rate, 256 or higher, and you will have audio that is, in my opinion, almost as good as the original CDs.

Good luck! Message me if you need anymore help.

Moving iTunes media folder to an external hard drive http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201562

Seagate Expansion 3TB Desktop External Hard Drive USB 3.0 (STBV3000100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00834SJU8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_7R1Gub1A56W95

What about this? You'll save some cash and get the same thing at the end. Also you'll get a bit of experience with wiring. I'm going to be making one soon since I need a switch between my headphones and my amp.

Since you've not added any detail, this is just a guess, but it sounds like network issues. Given that when you record yourself, it sounds good, but your (assumedly remote) friends report dropping audio and "robotic" voice, I'd say it sounds like a classic case of packet loss.

• What program are you all talking through?

• What are your results from https://fast.com/?

• How is your computer (assuming that's what you're using) connected to your network?

• Is this a constant issue, or is it sporadic? Is this a new problem where one didn't exist previously?

Shit upload bandwidth, or high loaded ping times, can cause UDP traffic to take a shit all over itself. Not normally a huge problem, but it becomes very apparent when transmitting live audio. WiFi can also be a culprit of this, if your connection isn't quite good.

Those are my guesses/starting points in troubleshooting this, given the sparse information you've provided.

For future reference, "It's not working!" isn't a good enough place to jump off from. As /u/zapfastnet said, and as Rule 1 dictates, DETAILS MATTER.

You'll need to convert the 3.5 jack to L/R RCA then you can use one of these

just thought of you today. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Blue+Microphones+-+Snowball+USB+Microphone/9737381.p?id=1218164386127&skuId=9737381

its on sale for black friday for 60 bucks, jump on that.

In your price range, I would go for a used integrated amp with a phono input. British company Rotel makes nice simple units that you probably can fetch at a really good price on eBay (Example). The usual Rotel sonic character should be a good match to your Teac speakers.

I recommend getting an integrated amp rather than a stereo or surround receiver, that way all your money goes on amplification quality rather than a bunch of bells and whistles like DSP effects that you'll never really use.

the browser included in ACID previews samples when they are selected and you can rename them from the browser

http://www.softpedia.com/get/Multimedia/Audio/Audio-Editors-Recorders/Sony-ACID-Pro.shtml

30 day free trial.

I'd advise looking for other audio apps as many I have come across offer this feature. Tried to find you something free that did it, you may have better luck.

Years ago I had some kind of extension that would like QuickTime decode FLAC (and Ogg and other formats), but iTunes wasn't able to read/write any of the metadata from those files, and it just wouldn't you transfer them to an iPod.

This was a long time ago, so the situation may be different now - but if you use iTunes, have an iPod, etc, you might be better off just converting your FLAC files to ALAC (Apple's lossless codec). You'll keep all the original sound quality, it's roughly the same size as FLAC, and it'll work with all your Apple stuff, including the iPod.

The only con is it'll only work with your Apple stuff.

On Mac OS you can use Max to do this: http://sbooth.org/Max/ - it should preserve all your metadata no problem.

I have no recommendations for Windows. Maybe install ffmpeg and convert via the CLI, if you're comfortable with that.

There are inexpensive ground loop isolators available for car audio. Connect one, using RCA adapters if necessary, between the speakers and TV. That should completely eliminate any noise. If it does not, report back what, if anything, has changed.

As the other guy said, you could just make the adjustment manually in an editor like audacity.
You could also do this through the command line, using a batch file and a little program called NirCmd. Basically you run this little batch file, which loops every four minutes. It tells NirCmd to set Windows' volume to full, then waits three minutes. On the fourth minute, it tells NirCmd to set the volume low. A minute later, it repeats itself.
I'd be happy to write the batch up for you real quick, but you'll need to install NirCmd yourself.

Four ways? Sure you can. How do you think surround sound works? :)

You'll want to google multitrack audio. You can do the audio side of this with a single surround sound capable sound card or a professional audio interface. You can also run one of your videos through an A/V receiver with surround sound output, but that may delay one screen. (Maybe only use the audio from that.)

Software-wise, if you have a mac, you'll probably want to look at QLab to actually play the files. (Yes, it's expensive to buy it, but you can also rent it if you don't need it for too long.) You should be able to use it to start everything from one "Go" button.

If you're also using Premiere, a quick google also gives me this article on how to embed multichannel audio for QLab.

I would suggest having the audio either all in one video or separate from the video entirely. You can get away with audio and video being slightly out of sync more easily than audio being out of sync with other audio.

FYI Amazon Video does the same thing, except they don't trust PC as a platform at all:

https://www.primevideo.com/help/ref=atv_hp_nd_nav?nodeId=GUX9FYHU5D8LC9EJ

You can only get HD and stereo, no 4K or surround from PC even from their Windows 10 app.

Unfortunately personal computers (including Mac) are going to be limited due to their flexibility. The MPAA still thinks it can stop the pirates if it just forces the rest of the world to bend over just a little bit farther.

I gave up on my HTPC project and bought a streaming device. Which kind of sucks (all of them are a little bit annoying in some way, and none do YouTube as well as a PC) but that's just the way it is right now. Amazon knows nobody is going to cancel Prime over it, because that's also tied to their "free" shipping.

There's always sox http://sox.sourceforge.net/

The command would be

sox infile96k.wav outfile44k.wav rate 44100

With a unix terminal (using Linux, Mac ports, or Cygwin on windows), to convert all the 650 samples, utilizing all your CPU cores (using the gnu parallel app) you'd run

mkdir /home/steffeh/samplesdir/44k find /home/steffeh/samplesdir/96k -iname "*.wav" | parallel sox {} /home/steffeh/samplesdir/44k/{/} rate 44100

( {} is replaced with the filename, {/} is replaced with the filename without the directory path )

If you're on a Mac, you can use a program like Loopback to route computer audio into a DAW and then set your mix up on a separate input. You could monitor on headphones to capture only your voice on the mic.

https://rogueamoeba.com/loopback/ creates loopback devices like Soundflower and can also intercept application audio and remap or duplicate inputs and outputs. It's $99, but Rogue Amoeba are long-standing reputable developers.

Is the behavior with these MP3s the same on your computer?

Check the ID3 Metadata in the MP3 files, see if the replay gain (http://id3.org/Replay%20Gain%20Adjustment) tag is set weird on files that play too quietly (or those that play fine).

Also try running your MP3s through http://mp3gain.sourceforge.net/

If you want to go out only one audio jack, I would look for a software mixer. Maybe virtualdj.com or there's even apps for this DJ Mixer Pro.

Try this Guide for some tips.

On tagging I would recommend Tagscanner. It has all your bases covered for looking up album info and tagging. It has a different workflow than some other programs but works where other programs fail, and it is free.

Both the options you listed are not as good as the SRH840s.

OP: You like the smiley face eq curve. If it sounds good to you then do it. Music is about enjoyment. Try downloading this and playing around until you get it sounding to how you like. Download here: Equalizer APO

Well you'll need the appropriate number of outputs, which is easily done with an audio interface of sufficient channel count.

Then it's just a matter of using software hat can address each of those output channels separately, which again poses absolutely no problem when you use software like Reaper (It's not freeware, but the trial version can be used indefinitely until your conscience gives up).
Reaper includes a sine wave generator (it's the Tone Generator plugin), and you can simply create 30 tracks and route each of these tracks to a different output.
Then add the Tone Generator plugin on each of these tracks and set it to the frequency you want.

JRiver may be able to do it:

> Playlist Sync -- Use MC's options for Handhelds (aka Portables) to set your choices. You can select your own playlists, or you can select categories like "All Audio". Once you have it set, choose Sync in the Action Window.
> MC can convert on-the-fly when it syncs. See the options for the device.

However, that same page has warnings about compatibility issues with certain iPods and iPhones.

I wouldn't be surprised if Clementine Player could do it. I know it supports syncing and transcoding.

I have always used foobar2000 its a "light footprint" winamp

Foo_Shutdown even allows you to standby or hibernate the computer when playback stops.

Get some kind of YouTube downloader to get the data onto your computer, preferably something that can export audio only. Then create tracks in an audio editor (like Audacity, but there are others too) and put the sound clips into the positions you want, either one after another or whatever else. Finally, export the audio as what kind of file you want (FLAC, WAV, MP3, etc.).

well what you are doing now sounds the best one can do. Your next collection try making par2 files for each album, say 5-10% minimum. If something odd happens again, chances are some of those par 2 files will be intact enough to repair one or two songs per album. http://www.quickpar.org.uk/

It is a weird thing but it kind of works like holographic images - take an old national geographic cover with a holographic image on it, cut it in half and instead of two halves of the same pic you got two smaller pics.. Say you have 100 songs in a folder, and you make 10% par2 files of them, which will bloat the total size by 10%, if any 10 of those songs are damaged it can reconstitute them whole!

mplayer has nice keyboard controls, but I'm not sure it'll do exactly what you want. Your best bet might be writing something yourself. I've considered using ChucK (http://chuck.cs.princeton.edu/) for something similar but haven't gotten around to it.

<strong>Steinberg UR242 audio interface</strong> looks like a standard 1/4 TRS jack.

what size is your <strong>headphone plug</strong>?

>So you only have the problems when you plug the headphones directly into the Scarlet, correct?

this didn't get answered, but I assume that's what OP means

>It’s possible the plug is TRS, but the jack you’re plugging your headphones into is TRRS.

if OP is plugging it into the focusright headphone jack it seems pretty clear that headphone jack would be TRS (stereo)

Thanks for helping OP out!

My apologies. After watching the video I see now that this mixer has that quirk where if you assign the USB/2-track to the phones, it pulls the main mix out of the phones, which is not normal and hence why I was so confused about this issue.

I might have a workaround. You'll notice that "TO PHONES/CTRL RM" button is in a section called "USB/2-Track" and this allows you to route the incoming USB audio into your headphones. Right we knew that. However it also functions to allow analog audio going into the "2-Track" RCA inputs to also be routed to the headphones as well.

So I would try patching the Main Out L/R to the 2-Track IN. If that works then you'll now hear the main out L/R which I think should just be your mic, and hear what is coming from the PC (in stereo) no less.

To do this you'll need a dual male 1/4&quot; TS to RCA male cable set.

I know it seems janky to patch an output of a mixer into an input of that same mixer, but because of the quirk with the phones/ctrl setting, I think this is the way.

This looks like the least expensive one that I could find on Amazon that's C weighted.

Maybe the wrong plug?

Apple often has 3.5 mm TRRS (tip/ring/ring/sleeve) while non apple is often 3.5 mm TRS

&#x200B;

https://www.amazon.com/Rode-TRS-TRRS-adapter-aansluiting-stekker-zwart/dp/B00L6C8PN0/ref=asc\_df\_B00L6C8PN0/?tag=nlshogostdde-21&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=430516654065&amp;hvpos=&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=8258759204159398937&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptw...

These are advertising 22 hours battery life and these advertise 28 hours...so are you sure you didn't get a chinese knock off pair?

This may have to do with how your laptop's jack is configured.

Many newer laptops are configured for a headset with a mic
That is a TRRS jack

You may need a breakout adapter if that is the case and your headphones have TRS plugs

Have a look at the rear.

If you see a RCA style input, probably labeled AUX, use a 3.5 mm to 2xRCA cable (assuming your phone still has a 3.5 mm headphone jack)

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8JW0

&#x200B;

Hey I found a product the matches the comment
https://www.amazon.in/INICIO-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B07W3D3P5W/ref=sr_1_4?crid=11R7U02ZCH7CN&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=usb+to+3.5mm+jack+audio+adapter&amp;qid=1624449103&amp;s=electronics&amp;sprefix=Usb+To+3.%2Celectronics%2C266&amp;sr=1-4
would this work?

Thanks for replay :) First option isn't going to work because the PC case is the Nzxt h210, which has only two slots.

About the USB converter I wasn't sure, I looked at ones like this = https://www.amazon.nl/Behringer-U-Control-UCA222-Interface-geluidskaart/dp/B0023BYDHK/ref=asc_df_B0023BYDHK/?tag=nlshogostdsp-21&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=430671070525&amp;hvpos=&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=8495259195134180028&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo...

But I don't know if it supports the amount of channels

HDMI I wil try. There's a rtx2070 in the PC so it has some HDMI ports to spare.

If it's possible I would like to avoid Bluetooth all together and use any form of solid connection

Again thanks for quick reply :)

What do you mean by 'video jack'? You'll have to be more specific.

Is it S-video which is a 5-pin (I think) compact jack? If so you just need a cable that converts to RCA. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Electop-Pin-Male-RCA-Composite/dp/B0140MTVPS/ref=asc\_df\_B0140MTVPS/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=167141218295&amp;hvpos=&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=16730610125804251197&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvde...

I've never seen a cassette deck with S video jacks, that's weird. What make and model?

There is probably a way to do it with some type of splitter, but the ideal way is to get yourself a proper audio interface. The Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 is generally the go-to device for this, but it is a bit out of your budget. Doing some searching, it looks like PreSonus makes one that is in the price range you are looking for, but I'd definitely do some comparing between them.

Here’s what you’re looking for. Amazon Basics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Audio Stereo Cable - 8 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VEH58XBG6B4BVKWH915K?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

However if this is going to an audio receiver I would use the digital output. The headphone jack isn’t going to give you surround sound if you have more than 2 speakers.

Look at the RMS of each and they are both 150 watt. I'm not familiar with Costzon, but they would likely serve your purpose just fine.

The receiver you are looking at has "Line Out" jacks which would work perfect for connecting it to the PA system's RCA in jacks. You could also just connect directly to the PA system from your projector (3.5mm to RCA) or by using a HDMI extractor.

You are correct that you would need to use the parallel/series thing with the receiver you are looking at as you are connecting more than one speaker to each jack. Some receivers, like the RS202 I had mentioned, have the built in ability to handle multiple zones/more speakers. However, I see that it is more than 2x the one you are looking at...US to CA price differences are pretty significant in some cases.

A PA system can come in handy for other situations. Getting one also makes it easy to have a karaoke night. The Gemini system does support more mics. I found a good YouTube video with a good overview of it. Stands are fairly cheap and could be added later if needed. Here's the the ones I use and I've been pretty happy with them.

You would get much better sound out of a PA system than using the Yamaha speakers you had picked out. The PA speakers are more than 2x the size of the Yamaha ones, which means it can handle the lower frequencies much better.

As far as mosquitos go, tiki torches work good to help. Most people in our neighborhood also have bat houses, which really help.

It’s a monstrosity but: how about Limited-time deal: USB C to 3.5mm Audio Aux Jack Cable 4ft [HiFi Sound,DAC Chip],Sweguard Type C to 3.5mm Headphone Car Stereo Aux Cord for Samsung Galaxy S21 S20 Ultra,Note 20 10+,Google Pixel 5 4 3 2XL,iPad Pro-Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085BM6GR7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5BF4DDMCXSTNQ8ED472H?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1 Connected to this : BOLS USB C Female-to-Female Adapter(2 pcs), Supports Fast Charging and Data Transfer Extension, up to 10GBbps Rate… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QRCYG6P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ABZEG1M56NME2W2EFH9Q?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Well that works too but those are definitely fancy cables and not as common.

I was thinking of these common cables and These adaptors since they are cheap and easy to get.

The HS7 has an amp in it and will work without a preamp. You do need to set a universal volume for both speakers though since their volumes are individually adjusted. Because nobody wants a lopsided speaker where one side is louder than the other.

The preamp is to unify both HS7 into a single unit. So adjusting volume is done on preamp rather than walking to the left to adjust then to the right

You can do that by plugging it into your phone and use your phone volume to control both speakers.

Though I would always suggest you turn off the speakers before plugging or unplugging your phone into these speakers. The pop popping sound of plugging in and out is not healthy for the speakers.This is where the preamp is useful because you can volume down before unplugging your phone to prevent bursting your tweeters from the popping disconnecting sound.

Yeah, those are called ‘active speakers’ or ‘powered speakers’, meaning that they have built-in amplifiers.

Cables like that are very common. Here’s one:

Cable Matters 3.5mm 1/8 Inch TRS to 2 XLR Cable, Male to Male Aux to Dual XLR Breakout Cable - 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PFLH184/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WY9DZ932RN5QSDBWBJ02?psc=1

So ... you are using something like this? -

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Converter-Changer-Coupler-Connector/dp/B083RWT7F8/

Or is it a cable like this? -

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Audio-Amplifier-Microphone-JOLGOO/dp/B07ZVY3R53/

Does your Sound Card have 3.5mm connectors or does it have RCA connectors?

An XLR uses Three Wires - Signal(+), Signal(-), and Ground. When that is converted to Unbalances lines, they are converted to Two Wire cables - Signal and Ground. In the process of the conversion, one of the Signal Wires is lost (unused). This is why there is little point in 3 Wire to 2 Wire Conversions. All the Benefits of Balanced Lines is lost. Though most connection in Audio Equipment outside of Studios are 2-Wire Unbalanced lines.

Show us by way of a Link, the Cable you are using?

> ... the right speaker is making low buzzing noise when not playing anything.

Likely this is a sign of a poor connection somewhere in the chain. Difficult to know without actually being there.

Try this with a long optical patch cable. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SR7BYD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_24F0B9RWXPH0WN04PZNB

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B009W7ZVS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_6M6S098AR9WQTMPHA8CQ

Gotcha. So a mixer will be good, although you’ll need one with a headphone amp built in. Here’s the one I have, should do the job: Rolls MX51S Mini Mix 2 Four-Channel Stereo Line Mixer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BG2S6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5FVZV99VJQCR8SH66QMX?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Have to 2nd what u/Speedogomer said. I would suggest anything Denon or similar that you can find used on eBay or Craigslist for $40-$100.

Or, if you have have high level input on your sub, you can do something like this Dayton from Amazon.

I also agree that there will likely be some latency. I've never tried it, but it does look like this is what you are looking for.

You can always ad the feature to a dac with one of these

https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Audio-Switcher-Headphone-Selector/dp/B0787X4J4V?ref_=d6k_applink_bb_dls_failed

Or

https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Audio-Switcher-Selector-Splitter/dp/B07Q1W4484

You need something like this. Honestly this DAC probably sounds better than the one built into your Yamaha so having both analog and optical outputs allows you to experiment with that.