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Power doesn't really matter, its just the amount of effort you can do in a unit of time. Effort is a force multiplied with distance. In a car it is a product of the RPM and torque an engine produces. You have torque, a force, times a distance, a number of revolutions, in a specified amount of time, a minute. force*distance/time. In the end you need the torque (force) to overcome the drag from the air and tires along with the inertia of the car. The amount of force used to overcome inertia will generate acceleration.
However, the engine is combined with a gearbox to allow for good acceleration at low speed and a good top speed for the car. When you combine the engine and gearbox in Excel (got bored once, so i did it for my car), you will get figures like these:
(http://imgur.com/ktuB5Qs)
When you remember that you want as much acceleration you will see that for my car the best practice is to shift at redline until fifth gear. So you should shift just before you hit the rev limiter. Off course this graph is very car specific, but most consumer cars are designed to have sort of the same curves because this just drives good in cities and on highways.

Here is a link to the sheet: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?page=view&resid=803C1C561C55AAA3!1378&authkey=!AAvxuJ0d9fGxhvc

It's 100% your CPU bottlenecking you. It's performance is similar to a Q6600 which was released early 2007.

http://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=AMD+A8-3800+APU

You need a much stronger CPU, then your FPS will skyrocket. At the moment you can set the graphics as high as you want, the FPS will remain the same because your CPU can't output the frames. Without a better CPU, the 970 is pretty much wasted, it's like strapping a turbocharger to a 1.0 litre fiesta engine.

If you don't believe me check out Digital Foundry on youtube, they test 970/Titans with budget CPU's and you'll see even modern budget CPU's like the skylake i3's will bottleneck those cards.

I got a cheap handbrake off amazon and it was way better than the Fanatec one. Fanatec makes great stuff, but their handbrake is trash.

I had to mount it to push to brake instead of pull, but that took about a minute to get used to.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HMT4SV6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So it all depends on your budget, but in my experience it is better to splurge more on pedals than the wheel. There is definitely a quality difference between the entry T150, the T300, and the CSL Elite. But when compared to the difference between the entry pedals and the T3PA-Pro or Clubsport V3s, the pedals feel like serious upgrades in quality.

Basically IMO you have to make MAJOR jumps in price for wheels to get huge improvements after you hit mid-tier; but you can get massive improvements from pedals for $300.

Better pedals also give you the advantage of much more precise and consistent braking since you will do it based on feel/pressure instead of pedal travel. This becomes a huge advantage in circuit sims like F1 or ACC. There is a reason I'm still racing on a G27 wheel, but have upgraded to Heusinkveld Sprints...

So depending on your budget, I'd probably suggest at least considering something like the T300 base combo'd with the T3PA-Pro or even mixed with the Fanatec Clubsport V3s.

You mean like this?!? But yet if you clip yourself out of the cockpit, you can see everything just fine? Yeah, It has been driving me insane cause it worked one time! Please please please let me know if you find out any news on the issue!

Forgot the link :) http://tinypic.com/r/2iqbrkn/8

I bought mine off ebay a few weeks back. Its cheaper on the site but there is $35 shipping. Free shipping with ebay. I found it available at walmart with free shipping.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/47528162?wmlspartner=wmtlabs&adid=22222222222000000000&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=o&wl2=c&wl3=10352200394&wl4=kwd-1103028060075&wl12=47528162_10000001474&wl14=playseat%20challenge&a...

Fraps crashes your framerate. Yesterday I tried recording at 60FPS but it tanked to 20FPS, so I set it to 30FPS and I had a constant framerate. It might take some experimenting to get it right depending on your system config. In my case, DiRT Rally was on my SSD, but my SSD was almost full. If you have lots of space left I think 60FPS should be doable on a SSD.

You might also try OBS, it's free.

For now, you could try XSplit to make your co-driver see your screen. I do not know how low the latency is, but there is a free version of the software, so can't hurt to try. Plus Skype for him to read the pace notes.

https://www.xsplit.com/

I haven’t used this equipment so I can fully endorse it but something like this might work. The external audio card can output 6 channels of audio and the amp can accept and pass through 6 audio channels at once.

StarTech.com 7.1 USB Sound Card - External Sound Card for Laptop with SPDIF Digital Audio - Sound Card for PC - Silver (ICUSBAUDIO7D) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LM0U2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Y5S94V7RKE2BM4CRXJ39?psc=1

Pyle 6-Channel Audio Marine Amplifier - Compact Power 600 Watt RMS 4 OHM Full Range Stereo with Volume Bass Treble Rotary Control - Wireless Bluetooth Receiver Speaker & LCD Digital Screen PFMRA640BB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RZQ6RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_S2J7PDY0NTW1QGJ2Z7EG

Also $33 with free shipping on Amazon for the physical copy

are you in the US? Amazon just dropped the price of the T300 to 200 with the 3 pedal set, insane price for what you get.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL

I saw this app in the store that uses Dashmeter and TorquePro. Are you using something similar? And if so was wondering how well it works.

Off Road Climbing - Car Racing Game is one of the most addictive and entertaining physics based driving games made for both Android and iOS! It is created by Keyideas Infotech and is a free challenging Hill climb racing game.Bike racing app is one of the most popular games in the world.It is a perfect app for all age groups. The players need to advance as far as possible without flipping over the buggy they are driving. The game is addictive for kids and has some crunching sounds when the vehicle flips

>Ive been looking at this....possibly 2 if the cheap handbrake I bought sucks.
>
>https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-HANDBRAKE-Sparco-Progressive-sequential-shifter/dp/B07GP1GW25/ref=asc_df_B07GP1GW25/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=343571782551&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1680404261434600509&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9018697&hvtargid=pla-586293319166&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=68726705226&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=343571782551&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1680404261434600509&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9018697&hvtargid=pla-586293319166
>
>
>
>Ive got about 3k into my setup (rig, shakers, flight controls, racing contols, monitor, vr set) now so a bit more justification is all I need ;)
>
>
>
>TBH I need a better set of pedals also. Dont feel that I need a dd wheel, I like my t300 just fine but the brake pedal sucks :) Good ones are not cheap though.

What video card do you use? I cannot for the LIFE of me get my dk2 to work :( It renders the game all weird. http://tinypic.com/r/2dlu0px/8

Its like it renders the cockpit and the outside world, but then also renders it a second time at a different angle. Notice the re view mirror is on there twice?

One of those generic Chinese ones, [like this one](https://www.amazon.com/Mkbve-14Bit-USB-Handbrake-FANATECOSW-Desktop/dp/B09KX1955J/ref=mp\_s\_a\_1\_1\_sspa?crid=3BAEA7DL1BOS7&keywords=usb+pc+handbrake&qid=1665522387&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIzLjc4IiwicXNhIjoiMi42NSIsInFzcCI6IjIuMzIifQ%3D%3D&...)

This one is an example, as they are sold under many different ‘brands’ on Amazon and AliExpress. I have one myself and I like it.

I had a 270x, it ran the game just fine. The obvious thing is to check your video drivers, as your performance should not be anywhere near that bad. Your computer is not 'low spec', it has more than enough power. Try to sort it out first before running off to buy a new graphics card.

Try some of the driver .dll files from here

https://mega.nz/#F!xtVAFLwI!MTxBcaVWSAm4rJBUpslTyw

When the updated AMD drivers broke game stability, I used these to roll back. Some people have also been using the win 10 10xx drivers with win7 and win10 to boost performance. I also used them to fix MGS:GZ when the new drivers broke it. Just download a file and drop them all into the same folder as the game .exe like this:

http://min.us/i/sY4ODp9DKGiT

I was on the 1040 drivers for DiRT Rally for a while with the 270x. Running on the high preset with low mirror quality, 1080p60 with 4xMSAA no problems at all. The optimization is great, AMD drivers can be a bit shit.

I hope this helps.

p.s I upgraded to a 280x - performance did not really change at all. p.p.s as before suggested, avoid the advanced blending option.

> unless they allow for a second controller to be plugged in via USB

This is the way, then you just rig the handbrake to one of the triggers or use a teensy.

it's really great to know that you used G2A.

If you're happy with shopping and you have a free moment, we'd be super glad if you dropped by and gave us a rating on <strong>Trustpilot</strong> - (just like Mario we are collecting stars). If not, please share with me any feedback you might have to improve the quality of your shopping.

All the best!

Well, there's deals to be had on the Steam version… don't know about the PS4.

Plus I feel the community probably stays alive and is competitive longer on Steam. Not to mention, if you do ever get a wheel, you get a lot more flexibility in your setup than you can get on the PS4.

So yeah, given the choice (and I have the same one) I'd say Steam.

Yeah, I actually thought that was the same, but the one I got is about $50 cheaper? Or is that just CAD conversion? I noticed that's a .ca link.

To configure 3 screen on all game easily, the best way for me is to play on windows mode and use the app:

Windowed Borderless Gaming to put the windows game on the good size and on the good position automatically. With this, all borders and title bar was removed.

Olso, the FOV was set automatically, and you can do "alt+tab" without any issue.

Little con: you probably lost little FPS (around -5 FPS), instead-of full-screen but for me is not an issue with all others benefits.

sorry for my english

The best way for me is to play on windows mode and use the app:

Windowed Borderless Gaming to put the windows game on the good size and on the good position automatically. With this, all borders and title bar was removed.

Olso, the FOV was set automatically, and you can do "alt+tab" without any issue.

Little con: you probably lost little FPS (around -5 FPS), instead-of full-screen but for me is not an issue with all others benefits.

^(sorry for my english)

Wait, what, there are way easier ways to go about this. You just need to set the desktop window to the proper aspect ratio, or exact resolution, then crop a bit. See my capture here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBFD4i_Qxp8

Also see some of my earlier vids where I didn't crop as much but instead added telemetry to the sides.

I use this app: http://westechsolutions.net/sites/WindowedBorderlessGaming/ to force the window to 1080x1200, the exact res of the VR HMDs, then crop some of the top and bottom with OBS, no stretching required.

Use DS4Windows (https://github.com/Ryochan7/DS4Windows/releases) to mask PS4 controller as XBox360 controller. It has pressure sensitive throttle and brakes. It also has rumble.

I'm disappointed DR2 does not have a dedicated profile for PS4 controller. Hope CM adds it in next update.

Use DS4Windows (https://github.com/Ryochan7/DS4Windows/releases) to mask PS4 controller as XBox360 controller. It has pressure sensitive throttle and brakes. It also has rumble.

I'm disappointed DR2 does not have a dedicated profile for PS4 controller. Hope CM adds it in next update.

Straight line braking before you turn in driving a mid-engine. You have to plant the weight on the front wheels before the turn in or you're gonna have a bad time (aka spin like a frisbee).

EDIT: Suprisingly enough, the game that taught me to drive mid-engine correctly was Enthusia for the PS2. It had this nifty little center of gravity/wheel traction icon that finally got me grasping the concept of weight transfer correctly.

http://www.beamng.com/attachments/enthusia-jpg.28495/

Sure you can be good with a controller in a number of simulators. Heck I played Live for Speed for years with mouse and keyboard before getting Logitech DFP.

I just generally assume that when seeing smooth driving it's experienced driver with wheel, gamepad drivers are more rare.

1) look at system logs. 2) try this software. https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/bb896645.aspx (its simple software. run it - look how it works. create filters - run dirt and look one of the last movement of it in the system )

This is the software I used to lower the volume of all audio output to make this game tolerable http://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/ and the tutorial http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=123956

it all depends on the one you are buying. This is the one i have

Can get something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Handbrake-PC-Windows-Racing-Games-FANATECOSW/dp/B07K8HNYSQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_41?dchild=1&amp;keywords=aikeec+handbrake&amp;qid=1619717839&amp;sprefix=Aikeec+han&amp;sr=8-41

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BJ7MGG7/ I ended up with this one, the first one I ordered had a device ID of 0000:0000, which couldn't be bound to anything. The second one works great and I love that it's not off or on it's an axis so you pull it lighter it acts lighter, crank it all the way and it locks em up.

Something like this would be absolutely fine:

Amazon USB Handbrake

I replaced my stock office chair wheels with these and I just lock a few of them and it works great. Sometimes I forget they're locked and stumble when I try to stand up lol

Ok good, I know there is a 2 pedal set that is sold as well for about the same price. Gotta make sure to get that clutch 👍

The only downside I will say to the T300 combos are that, even with the 3 pedals it comes with, a lot of people like to upgrade those ASAP to much nicer ones. The included ones aren't bad and a great intro point, but most are looking to grab the T3PA set pretty soon after. Just gives you a much firmer pedal set which does wonders for brake feel - way more useful in ACC and other circuit racers, but definitely nice on gravel in Rally too.

Now this can quickly balloon the price point 😅 but figured I'd try and point out any short comings for a setup upfront. They all have something you'll want to replace eventually, doesn't matter if you spend $200 or $1,200 - so it's just about figuring out what you're willing to spend now.

Worth it? Do you already have decent racing sim gear? If so, and you play a lot of Rally, then yes I think it is worth it.

You can go the DIY route, or you can buy one for about $100 on amazon that is fully analogue. A few guys in the Discord picked this one up and they love it, and for the price point I think it'll be hard to find a better one.

After this it's basically Fanatec -> Thrustmaster TSS -> DSD -> Heusinkveld -> a literal hydraulic handbrake ripped from a car and wired up.

https://www.amazon.com/Handbrake-Clamp-Windows-Racing-FANATECOSW/dp/B07K2TGHLQ

If you are willing to spend some money, but not Heusinkveld/Thrustmaster/Fanatec money, I know a few people with this handbrake off amazon. They love it for DR2.0 and it's a pretty solid bang for your buck.

Not going to guarantee that it would work, but try connecting to a VPN before starting the game. I had a problem when I couldn't connect in the past and used the VPN from Private Internet Access, which reliably helped. I tried using VPN exits in a different country (I think Dirt's game server is in Netherlands) and in the same country as I am (Aus), and both worked.

Sweet vid. There's a bit of a similar story going on in the Amazon Series about LeMans... The Nissan team ends up running a contest and putting together a car for a sim-racer.

https://www.amazon.com/Mans-Racing-Everything-Season/dp/B072HSW166

The Alienware 34" Ultrawide 3440x1440p that runs @ 120hz - https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Alienware-Monitor-Resolution-Overclocked/dp/B0777RY75V

It is beautiful ;)

> always taking the best even if it takes times

And yeah, I "tested" sim racing with the G27 and immediately knew I loved it. Decided I needed the good stuff and saved up for a year to buy the seat + frame. Saving for another year to buy new wheel + pedals.

Yes, my new handbrake is the Heusinkveld handbrake which is USB -> PC and I love it.

Worth the money? Probably not but I don't care, it feels amazing to use. A few of my friends own these Amazon handbrakes which are much much cheaper. Still really good, but not load cell like the HE

Oh, sorry. I don't. I'm saving up to buy a wheel. Thinking of getting this:

&#x200B;

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016JBE8LU/ref=dp_cr_wdg_tit_nw_mr?th=1

You can use the clutch if you want to for RPM-boosting purposes, but it's not necessary for changing gears in sequential mode (it is if you pick Manual H-Pattern With Clutch). I mean, you can press it when you change gears if it makes you feel better ;)

And yeah, using a wheel button for handbrake isn't great when things get vigorous, but I've got a cheap joystick on order to help with that.

I have a

HBA008 ZA1GT

So apparently it is a 350 W supply

PS4 for $100 wow thats a good deal. I play dirt rally on PC so i use OBS but I also have a PS4 and Xbox one and I use an Elgato game capture HD. This is the one I have. Its has been out for a few years so Its pretty cheap buying new and you could probably even find it used on a buy and sell website in your area. I would definitely recommend using a capture card for streaming since you have way more options with one over using the PS4 app.

Ok. If I decide I can spend the money I will go with the T300. Just to be sure this is the wheel you are talking about right? They also have the Ferrari version, but it looks like it is probably the same wheel with a horse on it XD

I started with a small investment of $99 for this.

After a month or two of still having a blast, I decided to upgrade myself to this. Then I lent my first wheel to a buddy of mine to hopefully get him interested. Once I get it back from him I'm hoping to turn it into my "Travel Rig" so I can keep racing even when I'm on travel for work.

For reference this is my set up.

Openwheeler Advanced Racing Seat Driving Simulator Gaming Chair with Gear Shifter Mount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ZQAGIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_ZMpgxbFQ543T1

And yeah that's my biggest concern on if it works on ps4.

What kind of wheel and pedals? Some hardware has wheel/pedal stands available, for example:

http://www.amazon.com/Steering-Wheel-Stand-Pro-included/dp/B004AYMCRG

http://www.amazon.com/Wheelstand-Thrustmaster-Wheel-Stand-Pro/dp/B0061EER58

Bit miffed as I paid full price haha! Also got F1 2015 for £1.51 too.

Only bought F1 2015 but it went through and activated on steam just fine

EDIT: They might have just caught this as a glitch, one of my friends said it wouldn't go through for him. Worth a shot though if you want to try still

Amazon

Game

What do you mean by not set up for Eyefinity? I'm using NVIDIA Surround, which does the same thing as the AMD Eyefinity.

My field of view setting in DR is 0.2, which is already too wide for a realistic cockpit view with my current monitor setup.

My monitors are mounted on a fixed triple monitor mount (http://www.amazon.co.uk/NewStar-FPMA-D700D3-Flat-Screen-Mount/dp/B0072LX8WC), so i can't use wider field of view in a realistic way.

You don't need to get a fancy wheel like the G27. I'm using a Microsoft SideWinder Force Feedback Wheel that's well over a decade old and I'm able to set some fairly strong times.

Do turn off the assists though, as you get good enough they only slow you down.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00CM2R1GA/ref=s9_simh_gw_p63_d0_i2?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&amp;pf_rd_s=center-2&amp;pf_rd_r=00582TE6N5R1RTJKE31M&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=455344027&amp;pf_rd_i=468294

I use the 360 wired controller with this game and it works perfectly!

Yeah, when in the driver's seat with correct FOV you usually can't see important information as it's cut off. There is a solution though, using a smart phone and an app. There's different solutions for this but currently I'm using Dash Meter Pro which works great with Dirt 4 and Dirt Rally.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.sensadigit.dashmeterforf1dirt

Can see all the relevant information in all cars with ease. Get a nifty little desk mount for the phone also to set it up nicely next to or under the display...