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This is a great entry level book that is engaging, establishes a baseline understanding, and understandable. Chris White is a biochemist and the founder of White Labs. This book is exclusively about yeast. It is primarily about brewing beer but the knowledge applies to all fermentation. Reading data charts or infographics about yeast will make much more sense afterward and you'll be able to start to get what you're looking for from the yeast.
Question 2, you can get 1 metric ton of liquid glucose for $530/mt from China. If you go here there is a huge listing of various types of sugar suppliers with minimum orders and pricing.
I used the typical 5kg (11.02lbs) of sugar and 20L (5.283 US gal) of water to make the calculation.
1 metric ton is 2205lbs. Using a 20% yeast, and actually only getting 17% alcohol, from that 2205lbs, you will get 179.6 US gal (680L) of ethanol, that'll be $3.11/gal for the glucose alone.
If you can buy more than the 1 metric ton, you can get the price down to $460, which would give you $2.70/gal. Obviously it will change if you can get the glucose cheaper, or if you can use less glucose, or you get more alcohol from the yeast.
I have seen some sources that were $280/mt to $420/mt for white sugar, minimum order is 20MT though, so, $5600 to $8400, or $1.64/gal to $2.46/gal
Overkill, definitely. Plus you need to find a place to story 20MT of white sugar, lol. But the less you buy, the more expensive it will get. You will have to buy it in bulk and wholesale if you don't want to be spending more than you would on gasoline.
As for Question 1, if you want a minimum of 10gal/week, you will need to be able to run at minimum 50gal of wash a week, and that is if you extract exactly 20% of the wash. I would run more, 60gal, to give you some head-room.
Check this out at Amazon Wostore Flaring Swage Tool Kit for Copper Plastic Aluminum Pipe With Tubing Cutter & Ratchet Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LDXNMN8/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_fabc_oP79FbX02GNFW
Here is a pretty basic one on Amazon. Depending on the size that you need? I do HVAC for a living, I have found good tools at pawn shops on the cheap FYI.
Same size screen available in PTFE instead of EPDM:
https://www.amazon.com/Sanitary-Tri-clamp-Screen-Pharmaceutical-Standard/dp/B07KZBY49N
If you've already split it, leave it alone.
If you boil it, you'll kill the yeast.
If you want to avoid this in the future, buy yourself one of these bad boys: https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-1610MB-Polyethylene-Lever-lock-Capacity/dp/B0026GO5CA/
Works great for 10 gallon batches, plenty of head so you don't foam over. I've done ~13.5 gallon sugar washes in them too, no foam overs because sugar doesn't foam much. I just leave the lid sitting on them so the gas can burp out, easy peasy.
Got amazon prime? Looks like Denord has some options if you don't wanna wait. Example.
I personally went with 240v elements on 120v circuits. Future proofing just in case I ever go 240v. Going from 240v to 120v drops the watts down to 1/4. So a 6000w will drop to 1500w. Two of them puts me at around 45 minutes a gallon. A bit slow for stripping, but more than OK for spirit.
There's an added benefit to using 240v elements on 120v though... It basically turns in into a suuuuuuuper ultra-low density element that is very unlikely to scorch.
If your city has an asian market, the one where you're too white to shop there, I guarantee you can find them locally. Just look for the clear bag with two or three hard white balls the size of a walnut. I pay between thirty and fifty cents per pack of three.
Otherwise amazon of course carries them. Just search "yeast balls" and you'll find them for about a buck each.
If I were you, I'd just go to the chinese store and ask the old lady behind the counter for yeast balls for wine.
Hey mate, doesn't really look like a good option. Wouldn't trust the seller, he seems to be saying that his stills are reflux stills (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Copper-Alcohol-Moonshine-Ethanol-Still-E-85-Reflux-3-Gallon-Stainless-Boiler/290624696346?ssPageName=WDVW&rd=1&ih=019&category=38172&cmd=ViewItem) and clearly they aren't. therefore, in my books, he can't be trusted. It looks pretty shit for what he's asking anyway. the condenser is way undersized, the boiler looks small and the boiler seal looks dodgy. Yeah. Avoid.
Technically yes. But a better idea would be to use a stainless steel pressure cooker like here: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-still/
That was the setup I learned on, and I had approximately $35 into it. But it's hard to make good liquor with that small of a setup.
There's a paper here (sci-hub link) that talks a bit about geosmin carrying over in distillation. It may not be directly applicable, but does seem to suggest that geosmin is present throughout the run, most heavily in the tails.
Hi guys I have found some people have had problems with the kink on Firefox and IE so here is an alternative link that works for those http://issuu.com/doctordistilling/docs/ ... =%23222222 also I appologise the iPad version is till a way off weeks I am told so not too bad but not available right now. Doc
It was Online OCR You only get 25 pages per email. So I made them through various 10 minute email sites. I also made the dropbox just for those. They'll be up until Dropbox deletes them or goes out of business. Later tonight I'll try stitching them together.
I only have the SS Brew Bucket Mini because I used to do wine, you can get something cheaper like this CLICK it's not stainless steel but it does the same job.
It makes transferring your brew far less of a ball ache and you get an airtight seal.
Voltage will stay as constant as the supply, but since you aren't actually controlling the voltage and the meter is probably not designed to display voltage from a PWM, not seeing the downstream voltage shouldn't matter. The display looks very similar to one I use that shows volts, amps, watts, and watt hours. It's fun to play with, and to measure exactly how much juice a run takes, but I make no adjustments based on the readings.
I've got a few spares of these sitting around. I can drop one in the mail if you'd like, but they don't go to 11.
I use one of these with an oxiclean mixture. I use it for my ball lock kegs too cuz I got fat arms.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005N1ZCMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_W59MDCDVTJJGSJG4XB6B
*edited link cuz i found the exact model I use
Not super cost effective but the cheapest I’ve found to my door. Especially good if you put own labels on. Once I got a good collection, most friends know to bring bottles back if they want a chance for more.
https://www.amazon.com/Imperial-stopper-Decanter-Whiskey-LImoncello/dp/B081P7LRKL
Amazon has it, at a markup, but you can also buy it through their aliexpress store for a good bit less. There isn't anything magical about this, it's koji and yeast, but it IS convenient. Add warm but not hot water to a bucket of grains, add the yeast/koji blend, and let it ferment. It takes longer than a traditional mash to ferment, because the koji has to break down the grain first. But if you want to try something new, why not?
I’m actually running a 100 gallon spirit run today, when I proof to 35% to go into the boiler my hearts come off at 150. I make my cuts and blend the hearts together and proof to 125 and barrel them, the only time that I know of that it’s a good idea to add water to slow maturation is if you’re in a hot and dry climate (Texas is a good example and it is a regular practice for Ironroot Republic) and in France when working with SUPER old casks. You’ll get more wood sugar and vanillin extraction at say 110-115 and more tannin extract at 120-125. I personally proof my whiskies to 125 and Rum between 110-115.
Sorry, I edit my comments a lot because I problem solve by talking things out and making revisions, my brain works weird.
Snag a copy of this
2.The easiest is arguably the CCVM still design. I'd give that a look too. They can pretty much be built without any soldering whatsoever.
3.Stainless / Copper, whatever works for you. The only difference is that copper will oxidize and look less pretty. I have a mix of both. You'd need better flux when soldering stainless to stainless or stainless to copper. It needs to have a strong enough acid to break down the outer layer of the stainless to allow your solder to flow properly. I like the Harris Stay clean stuff.
4.I have a 10Gallon (37 Litre) CCVM still that I use in either reflux or pot still mode and I use a 1500W element with it and it's fine. It takes a while to heat up, but it produces more than enough power. I've insulated my pot and column with 2" fiberglass foil backed insulation however. I figured since I didn't have to deal with gas and things melting, I might as well make it more efficient. I like the ULWD stainless hot water tank heaters. In pot still mode, I run it at around 1000W for a stripping run and 800W for spirit run. In reflux mode it just runs at around 800W all the time.
-a stepped high speed bit will go through stainless pots fine if you go slow and use cutting fluid. Punch a small hole first to keep it tracking properly then go to town.
-consider a radiused tri clamp ferrule. You can get the element with a tri clamp fitting built onto it and just clamp them together.
-you can use a motor speed controller to change your power to the element
This works great for soldering stainless to copper. I’m almost certain it goes stainless to stainless. HARRIS SBSKPOP Stay-Brite Silver Bearing Solder Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0089ETUN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aMjMFbCCFSMP3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
>do you have any clamps/ gaskets you could suggest?
I just search for 2" Tri clamp on amazon and get what's cheapest. mind you it took me maybe a year to get all the pieces together when I built my system. something similar to these ones with the ferrules and the PTFE gaskets are great. I got a couple of those. there is a thing some guys do with certain wall thicknesses of copper where they can press fit the SS ferrule onto the pipe by freezing the SS and heating up the copper.
>Also can I pester you once I start putting all these components together?
please do. I'd be happy to see how your progress goes.
This was a great write up thank you.
I've had pretty good luck using charred oak chips but I had wanted to try barrel aging.
I ended up buying a 5 liter (1.32 gallon) barrel off of Amazon. Barrel
This is not a paid endorsement for this particular barrel just wanted to share it. It came with a great set of instructions on how to prepare it for spirits.
I will add that I ordered the barrel from them "unfinished" meaning they didn't shellac it as I didn't want that weeping into my spirits.
Had I known about the method you linked I probably would have tried that instead of buying one.
I may make one so I can have a side by side comparison. I'm about a month or so into aging. No real game plan on how long I was going to leave it in there either.
Right now it's filled to the brim with 150 proof "Pennsylvania Rye"
I wrote a short book on the basics of rum distilling, but most of it applies to other liquors. I sell it on amazon, however I'm in the process of putting the same info in the book onto a website for free. Eventually I want to add more info/recipes, but I've been pretty busy with work lately. Feel free to PM me your email if you want a PDF copy of the book.
Buy a 15 gal keg for like $50 on fb marketplace/craigslist then this off amazon
“Moonshine Stills 2" Stainless... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OZXUXW8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. “
3 bubblers and 3 Home Depot buckets with lids. Cracked Corn and sugar for 15 gals of mash should cost less than $20. All together, costs should be floating around $300 for a great still with a higher volume.
I've been using this $30 5500W Ripple Foldback ULWD element for 6 months now on my 13 gallon still without any issues.
As you say it, yeah, it wouldn't be as effective. But the real reason I began to add this 'expansion spaces' on top of my boilers was to try and control the excessive foaming of malt washes. Originally I copied a Holstein design and built a down coming funnel crossed with a conical capped piece of pipe, but I accidentally found that the piece that was really doing that job for me was the screen I was then using to hold my column's packing, so in newer iterations of that idea I use this
Seems to work OK, and give me more tolerance in adding more wash volume to the boiler and keeping the lower plates cleaner as I fear the little spaces on the bubble caps could be fouled quite easily.
I began toying with the idea of having that space within the 6" x 6" spool work for it's upkeep and found this. Thinking about filling it with copper spp or my old pipe pieces packing recipe.
So the triclamp has a 1/2 NTP female fitting in it already?
Why not buy a 1/2 NTP male thermocouple? Like this one. Wrap the threads with some teflon tape.
I also built my 240 volt PID in a closed plastic project box. Added a small 12 volt 50 mm by 50 mm computer cooling fan at one end of the box and mounted the SSR to an aluminum heat sink. Both available on Amazon. You have to buy a small step transformer to power the fan. Fairly simple build and you can find the step by step on YTube. Mine runs cool as a cucumber.
Keep in mind that the malt will lower the mash water temperature when you add it. There are calculators on line to determine how hot your strike water should be.
Something in the neighborhood of 150F is great. So long as you keep it under 160F you’ll keep the enzymes happy.
Consider picking up some glucoamylase and add it to your mash — it will help get your final gravity to 1.000 and maximize your yield.
I'm also looking at this one, which is pretty similar, just a bit bigger and needs a condensing coil.
I was thinking a bucket with circulating cold water should be enough to keep it cool. You have any ideas?
well back a couple decades ago I did a little wind project....and used big resistors, as a dump load, and they got really hot....something to think about.....whether it's running off stray AC or DC is irrelevant,,,just have to run stray AC through bridge rectifiers to turn it into DC. Yet to keep yeast active, the daytime is simple...it's the nighttime when it gets cold that concerns you. something like this might work....with some work
I mean are you going to run a thermowell through a end cap on the sanitary fitting or have you found some cool bit of hardware that I ~~don't know about~~ just looked up and wish I'd known about a year ago.
Lalvin EC-1118 Saccharomyces bayanus. It makes some lovely flavors, but can only get up to 18%
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CA5RZSM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you want a bit of light reading on the engineering side of distribution, this would be a good starting point (only a few chapters actually apply, but lots of interesting info...)
Something like that. It’s been years since I did mine so I’m not exactly sure. Probably bought it at lowes
For variable control of a 110V 2000W element, this is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08W2XYLNB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It is an SCR. VERY easy to wire up and has worked flawlessly for me on both a 9.4 gallon pot and on a keg still. The keg still takes over two hours to heat up with a 2000W element though :( . Not sure what size pot you are working with, but the linked product will definitely do what you need without the ebb and flow you described from your PID and setpoint controllers.
It’s one of these from Amazon. It’s one of the more expensive things in the whole box but seeing the power input gives me useful information as I do my runs and it’s also been handy from a troubleshooting perspective too.
Looks like Yellow Label is yeast and enzymes. The instructions still say to warm up the mash to get the enzymes into a happy working zone. They just say add hot water without specifics.
you could always try boiling up some corn meal, drain off the liquid and use the liquid to cut your booze down to the strength you want to bottle it at....after all, if the water tastes like corn it'll pass that taste to your booze(laughs) you could also try "aging" your booze on cornmeal....I'd suggest taking a smallish sample(less than half a pint) and try it in a a little half pint canning jar, before committing to anything...here's another option....don't know anything about it though.....https://www.amazon.com/Whiskey-Premium-Essence-Thousand-Cocktails/dp/B087NQ7JK8?ref\_=ast\_sto\_dp&th=1
Could I just set the temp to be 100C so it'll never reach it and shut it off and then get a SCR? Or should I get this cheaper one and use an SCR with that since it looks like this is all stainless steel as well but with no temp controls?
Hyssop is essential, I am afraid. It adds flavor and gives color. Can't you find it in, say, hippie/eco shops? You can also get it on Amazon.
Some say you can replace hyssop with thyme, but I doubt it.
I started with a T500 with a reflux condenser a few months ago. Great for neutrals.
And an induction cooktop to better control heat. I can add/swap columns and accessories because of the tri-clamp fittings. Consider where you might go with it if you enjoy the hobby.
I ferment on the grain. When it's time to charge the still I usually grab a big ole cup and scoop a bunch of the liquid into it. I try to not disturb the bottom too much. Any of the floaty bits on the top won't get burned and I haven't noticed any impact to flavor.
Once I've gotten maybe 50% of the liquid out of the fermenter I dump the rest into another bucket that has a "brew-in-a-bag" on it. The ones I have come with a tightener that does a good job. I dump most of the liquid out and then spin-and-press until my hands hurt, dumping more liquid as needed.
Long term I might pick up one of those janitor mop wringers. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Mind-Reader-Commercial-Mop-Bucket/dp/B078G8CHQV/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=mop+wringer&qid=1661355371&sr=8-8
Here you go:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GMCAM2G?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
I saved some $ and bought one of the Used-Like New. It wasn't used, the box was dinged up and the cooktop is brand new.
1800 Watts of power and you can select temperature, Level (1-10), or time. Only downside is that this unit will shut off after 170 minutes of use, but you just have to turn it back on and dial your level/temp back to where you had it.
A recipe I'm playing around with now is guava brandy. I fermented some just to see what would happen and it had the strongest (while still pleasant) smell and taste of anything I've distilled. It's the same strength of smell that a lot of fruit wines have *before* you distill it. I made it out of goya guava juice (link below) and 4 pounds of sugar per gallon and regular red star yeast. I just started a batch using DADY last night to see what the difference will be.
The guava juice I used on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N37CEHI/
the longest elements you can get are better as they have the lowest watt density which makes it less likely to scorch your wash. buy a new one thats stainless. they are typically fairly cheap, and you dont want the steel rusting and ruining your boiler.
the thermostat in a hat water tank isn't a good call either as it tends to cycle and surge - and that makes cuts problematic. the simplest way is to set up is with an SCR controller. just one of these https://www.amazon.ca/10000W-Electronic-Digital-Voltage-Regulator/dp/B0972WWFYB/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=2CI59T2I1CHAX&keywords=10000w+scr&qid=1658848342&sprefix=10000w+scr%2Caps%2C232&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbG... mounted in a box with a power switch (and your GFCI)
It's a process, things take time.
Read your yeast packet it will say something about optimal ph.
As conditions become less favorable fermentation will slow until it stops. low ph, low temperature, too much ethanol, running out of fermentable sugars.
Test ph before you pitch yeast or if you stall. use lemon juice and baking soda to adjust.
1 bubble/ 10 seconds is slow. Check your seal.
I'm using a varac and am really happy with it. Make sure you get one with the right power rating.
Had a bit of a problem at first with the seal. It was apparent that the CO2 was escaping some other way because I could tell it was fermenting, but wasn't bubbling. Turned out it was the o-ring on the screw in lid. I wrapped the giant threads on the screw on lid with PTFE tape and it fixed it.
I really like this lid: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AYVRHKG
Drilled a hole in the center with a stepper bit and added an airlock
Seeutek Alcohol Still 10Gal 38L Stainless Steel Water Alcohol Distiller Kit Spirits Boiler Copper Tube Ethanol Still Build-In Thermometer for Home Brewing and DIY Whisky Wine Brandy Making https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YQWCCKW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_EVQFB9X87X3D9CQAGA7Y?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have one of these Chinese stills VEVOR 30L 7.9Gal Water Alcohol Distiller 304 Stainless Steel Alcohol Still Wine Making Boiler Home Kit with Thermometer for Whiskey Brandy Essential, Sliver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078C7C111/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_E2DG1ZMCK516VTN9D5K3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 And can reliably make 180 proof at the start and then easily maintain 160 average with just copper mesh packing, with a mash that’s around 13-15%. I dont know what type of setup you have, but for $20 you can buy enough copper mesh to pack a column like the one I have 3 times. I added an internal element which I just run on low ( a single slow run) and I have very clean and tasty distillate.
I would choose a thumper if you’re looking to add to your current still, just because it gives you more options for flavoring, but adding 2 would mean adding a lot more heat which could just cause you more issues to deal with. I’m very certain that if you’re just choosing between plates or a thumper for increasing your reflux, then the plates will be more cost efficient and simpler than trying to balance out 2 thumpers in series.
You can get around the whole malting/enzymes/cooking etc by using Yellow Label Angel Yeast. It is capable of breaking down grains by itself. I use it and it’s definitely worth the money, even though it’s more expensive than DADY. You can literally just add your grain to warm water then add Angel Yeast and just let it do it’s thing. I haven’t ever malted corn , but I’ve cooked it and then added the amylase at 158 or whatever it was and let it cook long enough to convert all of the starch, which is a bit of a pain in the ass so that’s why I swapped to this way. I can’t tell any difference in the distillate but I’m sure there is some.
Home distiller has a long thread on using it, with toms of information.
Yellow Label Angel Yeast 500g Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08X73CJ9X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MXXAPC9AVJEZD8JSQRC5
In all honesty I believe it’s cheaper if you use corn, but not by much. I make sugar washes now mainly when I’m wanting to try things, but keep going back to my corn based recipe. I also use rice and oats, which makes a difference taste profile but it’s definitely smooth.
I actually undersized a bit, and it was a perfect snug fit (despite guessing)
This is the hole saw and ferrule I used:
Rannb Hole Saw 3.74"/95mm Cutting Dia Carbide Hole Cutter for Stainless Steel Sheet and Metal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KZJCFZY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_9ZDFWN246F5YA0XKVXJY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Stainless Steel Sanitary Pipe Fittings kit，with Heavy Duty Tri Clamp,102mm 4" End Cap,Weld Ferrule,Silicone Gasket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083FQX367/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_HVFKHKSS3TA6M3JNEJZJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
LitOrange 190 PCS Mixed Silicone O Ring Sealing Gasket Washers, 6 Different Size,Made from Soft Silicone (Better Sealing Than Rubber) Used for 3/4",1/2",3/8",1/4",1/8" Fittings & Valve,Plugs Etc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VVP9ZQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_TVRDW6MX8GZDZZ11M495?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 These made very good, actually better replacements for the pipe gaskets that came with the kit. Be creative, you'll figure it out. Best wishes friend.
Thank you! Any thoughts about this one VEVOR Alcohol Still 5 Gal 21L Stainless Steel Water Alcohol Distiller Copper Tube Home Brewing Kit Build-in Thermometer for DIY Whisky Wine Brandy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TJJXYFV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WFDB8NJYBWEC9YXVWKNV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I got one of these a while back. Actually works great. Like, I was pretty surprised and how great it worked. I was going to install a heating element and the bottom of it but it works so well on the stove that I may just leave it the way it is.
[Vevor "Reflux"]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YJHVBYL/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_Z1AFX2HBH1Q995392C9Z?psc=1)
I haven’t used either of those, but I haven’t had any issues with scorching either. My first batch was using the stove for a heat source and I just stirred it while coming up to temp, until I was up around 160* before putting the top on and I didn’t have any issues. You’ll need to filer it through a rag anyways when adding it to the pot, because there’s always some solids leftover that settle out.
VEVOR 30L 7.9Gal Water Alcohol... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078C7C111?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
That’s the one I use. I recently added an internal element and it’s so much nicer. I ran a pot of Rum last night and it makes a world of difference. I haven’t scorched anything YET……. But I’m sure it will happen one day. I have heard of running several copper scrubbers in the pot also, to help with scorching but I don’t have any experience with them.
What was your recipe that brought your SG up so high ? I just use a gallon of molasses and then I’ve used 4 lbs of brown sugar and also used plain sugar. My preference in taste is the plain sugar vs the brown but everyone is different.
Yellow Label Angel Yeast 500g Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08X73CJ9X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_H9FH0JBH11XTA2HN5V8G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It was hard to get, on Amazon, until about a month ago, but now it’s not an issue. I would like to try their specific yeast for whiskey but it’s not available. Definitely pricier than some DADY but wow….. it makes life so much easier
So I’ve been thinking on the vinometer and had a few questions. All of the ones I’ve seen ( reasonably priced ones that is) rely on the SG to give the alcohol content, but with this yeast constantly working in the background to breakdown and convert starches, the SG isn’t reliable so that seems to reason that the traditional ways of monitoring alcohol content wouldn’t be either. Maybe I’m overthinking it, but I know my SG has hung around .9/1.0 for 3 days now and it’s still as active as it was the first two days, which tells me that the bacteria and enzymes are all working their ass off for me.
On a side note I decided to try using this same amount of 18g YLAY and 6g DADY, on a rum recipe that I just made using a rum yeast, for a comparison. It’s just a simple gallon of molasses, 4lb brown sugar, yeast nutrients and 6 gallons of water. Having just made an identical batch, except for the yeast, I wasn’t expecting the volcanic eruption that happened overnight from my carboy. The turbo yeast rum yeast I used on the last batch foamed up but never made any mess……. Dear God, this was violent. It sprayed shit out of the bubbler 4 feet. I figured at worse this yeast ferments more of the molasses and changes the taste some and I wasted $25 worth of molasses and sugar. The experimentations are the fun part of this hobby for sure.
Anyways, I would love to have some input on the vinometer accuracy. I’m going to try posting a screenshot of what it would show on the refractometer, that makes me concerned about its accuracy.
Thanks
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018LSMI34/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7B57XJCASV9J10QE5SA4
Example apple juice brand in large glass container that can be converted into a fermenter with grommet or bung with hole and airlock :
https://www.amazon.com/Martinellis-Medal-Unfiltered-Apple-Bottle/dp/B06WGRJV29
Teflon PTFE Film Sheet,11.8 x 39.37" Thickness 0.1mm
Teflon Sheet High Temperature Resistant Teflon Coated https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K8P6GC5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_W4X5KBE3NQGY547ME9CT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Would this work ? Looks like sheets of the PTFE that I can cut out and make my own liners for the lids I already have.
You can get half gallon ball jars at Walmart pretty cheap. I'm using some right now.
There's also did but you'll have to get some tops.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W3PY19Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I’ve used this one with good results.
Duxtop Portable Induction Cooktop, Countertop Burner Induction Hot Plate with LCD Sensor Touch 1800 Watts, Black 9610LS BT-200DZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSNTSVR/
I don’t find that this “cycles” and I get very consistent output.
It also has two modes that it runs in. The power output mode is good for distilling, but the temperature mode would be good for mashing, especially if you want to hold the temp at a specific point (it’ll very the power to hold the set temp, but remember that it’s the temp of the glass top, not the liquid, so it may take some dialing in)
I find that 1800W is fine for the 10l boiler I use with it. Heat up time is fast, 10-20min, and output power is around 700-1000W while actually doing the run.
Where I am, most available units will be less than 2000W because of standard house wiring, so anything more powerful will be far more expensive, and may require different power.
Finally, this model will shut off at 2hr by default, but if you set the timer, you can push the shutoff time out past 8hr if you need
You want a female garden hose to hose barb coupler. You’ll want to know the ID of the input pipe your hooking up to. That Inside Diameter, get a ruler and measure the widest part of the hole inside the tube probably 1/4 or 3/8, that’s your barb size. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Female-Garden-Hose-Thread-Barb/dp/B0064OJ1HE
They make them with a swivel thread, or one solid piece. I like the solid for less leaking, the movable part is easier to connect but I’ve broken them tightening for a good seal. Second, use good rubber washers and not all hoses are not equal, if you can’t get a good seal you probably need a better hose that won’t distort the seal during tightening. Also I don’t think hoses are ever completely water tight. I setup my hoses so any small leaks will run down the hose to the ground and not drop on work surfaces, still parts, or god forbid in your collection vessel.
You’ll also need a hose clamp, some couplers come with one. it’s a little metal strip in a circle that tightens with a screw. Holds the pipe on the barb.
Bought this one in June of 2020, no issues so far!
I'm sure theres some acid blend that will clean and re-passivate that stainless. I'd try some Five Star Acid #5 - but your right, it may be a LOT easier to cut and re-weld.
WMN_TRULYSTEP MSC03 Copper Alcohol Moonshine Ethanol Still Spirits Boiler Water Distiller, 20 Litres https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XZ4Y5T0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_MNCQZEAQGMH6M2PWE640?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
VEVOR 20L 5.3Gal Water Alcohol Distiller 304 Stainless Steel Alcohol Still Wine Making Boiler Home Kit with Thermometer for Whiskey Brandy Essential, Sliver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YJHVBYL/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_7J8BBJ1S4G07VGNKPEMA?psc=1
Sure! Something like this with a hole drilled in the lid for a stopper an airlock.
https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-1610MB-Polyethylene-Lever-lock-Capacity/dp/B0026GO5CA
Mine came from searching "plastic barrel" on FB marketplace, but if they're used make sure you know what was in em before you got em. Mine had salt for a pickle factory.
I got tired of using a roller mill and bought a power burr mill. It can burn though corn without killing your arms. Just realize the stand is crap, I built a rolling stand that just fits a 7 gallon bucket to catch the grain.
You can use that, but you need to crush it up so the water (and therefore the enzymes) can get at the starches. If you don't have a grain mill, or if you just want to save yourself the step, you want this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Maltbys-Stores-1904-Limited-FISHING/dp/B089QMQNT2?ref_=ast_sto_dp
We call it cracked corn in the US.
Not sure why I got a few downvotes, it's a legitimate question (which OP has not answered)
For reference:
Don't buy it, 380 is expensive for this.
I would try this instead:
It's not the highest quality, but you can get just about everything you'd need to ferment and distill all in one, plus you buy a grain bag and you could even mash in this pot.
The only thing I'd be concerned about is the steel thickness, but it seems like it could be a good setup
Btw, this is the Air Still I use and it will let you control your temp ranges: Slsy 1 Gallon Alcohol Distiller Electric Alcohol Still, 4 Liters Countertop Water Distillers Tabletop Whiskey Air Still with Connection Bottle, Home Brew Wine Making Kits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083LRVWP9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Z5SHBZKCJ3X5FPYJCPJ0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Why not use a fully digital one instead of an analog one with a cheap dimmer switch or even a PID?
None of those.
Buy this one and use a spare power cord for fan + 750 watt dimmer to tweak heater power
Heat at full 750 watt for first 25 mins. Then reduce heater power to 300 watts.
I have an airstill + the thing I posted + a proper rectification still . I have stopped using airstill and will sell it when Corona restrictions ease.
I am happy to explain more if needed
>I'm 100% looking into this. I've brewed beer before but, it tastes like arse tbh. Too finiky. Where would you recommend I start to make a lil bit of potine?
This can do the job and be OKish. If you want to make gin/vodka then you need a reflux still. I buy all of my gear from Aliexpress.
Buying from china is very slow in the current time. Better to buy from locals if they stock.
This is from UK. Maybe it will help you. https://www.gumtree.com/p/other-household-goods/12l-3-pot-still-/1373499135
T500, while being a very good and safe rig, is not easily modifiable. Besides, you will need a separate vessel for fermenting your rice wine.
I'd suggest getting a modular stainless steel still (poetry, hehe). Those with standard 2-inch pipes and tri-clamps are quite affordable. Even new ones are. You can then buy cheap components from e.g. Aliexpress and modify it. This way you can easily change your set-up from a simple pot still to a VM column, LM column, flute still with plates, etc. Also, you can use the pot as a fermenter in case you don't have lots of storage space.
Suninlife 30L 7.9 Gal Moonshine Still Machine 304 Stainless Steel Water Distiller Home Brewing Kit with Thermometer, Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0969DFTDG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_W3GK93S9BWVMB6M6XH9V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
There are several models, pick wisely.
Not from the UK so I don't have a ready solution for you. Sounds like you're going to have to get creative. Any dairies in your area? I'm thinking of big milk canisters. Or maybe try poking around in a few metal scrap yards to see what turns up. Sorry I don't have an easy answer.
Edit: Found these. https://www.gumtree.com/miscellaneous-goods/uk/beer+keg
If you want an affordable 1-gallon pot still you can buy a home counter-top water distiller on eBay for less than $100, open the condenser head and plug the small vapor escape hole in the condenser tube.
If you want to get fancy, you can drill a hole through the head dome and mount a cheap digital meat thermometer. But it isn't really necessary, since you can just make your cuts by smell. Also, you can rig up a light dimmer to a plug to give you separate control over the heat. That'll let you distill much slower to get sharper cuts.
Or, if you'd prefer a reflux still, you can just order one online.
Just to piggyback on your comment.
http://en.citizendium.org/wiki/Continuous_distillation
Continuous distillation is the preferred method of manufacturers in Kentucky. This makes up for ~90% on bourbon production in America.
Some Scottish distilleries use the continuous method. Irish distiller's for some reason use a bunch of pot stills.
EDIT: Is it Down Right Now will check if any website is down or it it's a problem on your end.
It's not magnetic but it works great on my induction cook top, but it's an heavy duty old update brand cooker. I don't think that matters though. I got the silicone pipe seals from Amazon in a variety pack LitOrange 190 PCS Mixed Silicone O Ring Sealing Gasket Washers, 6 Different Size,Made from Soft Silicone (Better Sealing Than Rubber) Used for 3/4",1/2",3/8",1/4",1/8" Fittings & Valve,Plugs Etc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VVP9ZQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_XTCH8Z3VJQG19SS3Z1PW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I also used some silicone self valve packing rope.
It’s just 12 lbs of honey. That simple. I bought the honey that came from texas. Here’s the link. Desert Creek - Raw Honey, Natural Premium and Pure Texas Product - 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016G4JPZE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_X0J49Q56ED4AGE9XK6DY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thank you very much for all the info and the link!
What do you think of a still like this one? It looks a bit similar to the one he uses. It's 2 gallons rather than 2 liters, but seems like a great value. Will the extra size be a problem for small batches? Is a thumper keg beneficial?
For all of you still here, what do we think of this?
This is the one I was just going to go ahead and buy before I bothered to ask but I just don't know if this is garbage or not. The price is right and husband recently told me he loves the look of hammered copper (who knew) even though I think it's stupid. Would this be a good first purchase or is this one stupid? Thanks again!
Thanks so much! That is a bit more than I wanted to go (trying to stick to around $400, we still have xmas left lol). This is the one I had originally been looking at. https://www.amazon.com/Alembic-whiskey-moonshine-essential-Copperholic/dp/B0797TJ5MZ/ref=pd_ybh_a_6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VZ4SFA608BN6EF5K1GC6
Does this seem like absolute trash? He recently revealed to me (due to infomercial watching) that he loves the look of hammered copper even though I think it's hideous *shrug*). The price is right but I just don't know if this would be a piece of crap or not.
azeotropic solutions don't boil out in nice separated pre determined cuts, they are smeared throughout the run. therefore all the nice boiling point temps you expect to see throughout the run don't really exist. So temps is something you 'register' with each still as it runs, and you are really monitoring output flow and associating to the temps, not the other way around. temperature, to an extent, is the least important thing I am looking at during a run. but after I have run a still a bunch, I can check temp quickly as a reference to past runs.
That being said, how do you get it run smoother. There are a couple things, first and foremost is the quality of your heat transfer. Boiling chips really help out. If you ever boiled water in microwave, you would noticed that liquids in very smooth containers don't have nucleation points for the steams to propagate from, and the liquid can 'trap' excess heat until a nucleation point occurs and it will 'burp' a big load of steam, thus giving the inconsistent stream from condenser. Other factors depend on how the still is constructed, how the heat is applied to the boiler, how the column is shaped, how tall it is, how the condenser is shaped, cooled, and angled off the column will all play into how the still performs.
tl/dr: add boiling chips, and get more time with the still to understand how it runs. make changes if need be after a half dozen runs if need be. I use ceramic aquarium filter medium as boiling chips: https://www.amazon.com/Alegi-Aquarium-Premier-Ceramic-Canister/dp/B086213VDN/
Not sure what your budget is, but this meets your criteria (Amazon etc) and will be pretty easy to use. This will provide more flavor than a 'vodka' or neutral type spirit, but is also MUCH easier to use. Once you put your fermented product in and connect the skinny copper tube to water in and water out, the distillate drips out the end of the skinny copper tube (aka condenser).
https://www.amazon.com/Alembic-Still-T500-Boiler-Volt/dp/B07JMRV4PS/
Terroir of Whiskey was great, learned me about Empire Rye. Picked up a few of those and it’s real good stuff. Also indirectly got me to Leopold brothers three chamber Rye, local to me. I’m trying to build a hobby scale three chamber still now to see if I can get close to what they do.
Haven’t picked one out but I may go with this one:
DERNORD 240V 5500W Tri-clamp Ripple Heating Element Stainless Steel Immersion Water Heater with 3-Wire Electrical Locking Plug (2 Inch Tri clamp) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075KHLJ69/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_952BFBECZF7NZQ3TF9EB?psc=1
The second TC on the side is for a temp probe. Only necessary if you want to know the liquid temp, but absolutely no action should be taken based on that reading. Since the two side TC's are at the same level, two elements would interfere with each other when installed and so can not be used to decrease heating times unless one of the elements was bent to avoid contact.
Rather than monkeying with the element enclosure, I would recommend a direct-clamp sanitary like this. That way you can store the element installed without a hardwired cable draped off the side.