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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/fosscad:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/fosscad:
Cults.
Odysee
FreeCAD
Autodesk Tinkercad
MediaWiki
Matrix.org
LBRY
Status
7-Zip
Filemail
The most popular VPNs mentioned in /r/fosscad:
The most popular reviews in /r/fosscad:
https://lbry.com/faq/what-is-lbry
No, it's way more than just a decentralized YouTube. I'm genuinely surprised you haven't heard of lbry / odysee. Not trying to detract from your project idea, the more the merrier, but you did ask if a Blockchain based publishing platform already exists.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/polymer80-pf940v2-glock-brace
I've incorporated some changes from my previous versions to increase rigidity, make the grip stub easier to snap on, incorporated the space for the sling loop, etc.
Use a 3/16" dia. 1/2" length quick disconnect pin to hold the pistol on the stub, and an M4x30 screw / M4 hex nut to hold the stub on. So far it's been designed in PLA so when using better materials, adjust shrink rate accordingly.
I'm going to attempt to print it in NylonX and see how rigid it is, i'm pretty happy with that material. Print it in the orientation I placed it in, and you won't need support material. (I rotated it in the picture for aesthetic purposes)
BE SURE to print in .2mm layers or less so that the receiver extension threads are properly formed. Other than that... enjoy!
https://www.amazon.com/Carbon-Smooth-Diameter-Precision-Tolerance/dp/B0036R4SX4is what IvanTheTroll uses in his 30 round magazine design (from the README)
I was able to get out today and test not only my PF940V2 frame, but the new brace adaptor also got to be tested, and it worked beautifully. I am going to address the grip stub one last time, namely raising the QD pin hole another millimeter so that it's easier to snap on.
Other than that, i'm pretty happy with it - I may re-hash the stub installation in the near future to provide even more strength to it by using the screw itself to add rigidity. It was printed using MatterHackers NylonX for the brace, and PETG PRO for the stub.
I want it where the brace can be used for all pistols and you can exchange the grip stubs respectively for G17/19 size, maybe even 26/27 size P80 guns.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/polymer80-pf940v2-glock-brace
I use this build plate, along with a bltouch and it's a game changer. My bed is warped but the bltouch fixes that and with the PEI material on the build plate I've never had an issue with adhesion. I also printed rails town, but I rotate the print 45 degrees so that the magwell is in the left hand corner facing you
Bilway Removable PEI Flexible... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BFZRQ2J?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
My issue isn't starting, my issue is making it available to others. My ISP has an internal NAT so I can't even make a proper torrent, and ProtonVPN has no mechanism to provide static IP+port combinations yet.
there's a VPN named Private Internet Access (PIA) that allows you to pay for a VPN subscription with store bought gift cards.
Go to walmart
buy $50 gift card with cash
redeem on their site for a year VPN
I've gotten to the point I just use it for everything now. It's always running.
Here is the link. Click "Promotion Available" and select the filament you want and when you go to checkout the roll will have 50% off.
Hope this helps someone.
Amazon cheapo $7.99
Seem to be the perfect size.
Needle File Set of 10 Metal Files Industrial Strength Steel - 10 Different Shapes Round, Flat, Square, Triangular, Half Round, and More! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082T4841Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_aJFcGb8243ATK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Is this the stuff? They seem to have quite the variety of colors.
I went through almost 2 rolls of esun's PLA+ in grey without any issues. I tried Overture's "impact PLA+" which didn't make it more than 10 minutes before it stopped cooperating.
I used green eSUN PLA+ and loved it. The black components are Sunlu PLA+ but I had a tough time with this filament. Could just be old filament though. Here's a link to the eSUN filament
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/fosscad-bottle-opener
Crack one open with your very own FOSSCAD bottle opener! Keep on a keychain (plenty of holes for that), give as gifts, impress your friends!
I had 5 of these at one point and had good success. Could usually print a couple hundred hours with routine isopropyl alcohol wipe down. Once I noticed I was having difficulty with adhesion, I would just lightly sand the plate (120 grit or finer), wipe it down with acetone, then isopropyl, and good as new.
CCTREE Upgraded 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GGNZD1Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I've since switched to the pei steel flex sheets and honestly wouldn't ever go back to glass.
Sorry it took me awhile to respond, I had Dr appt with my back surgeon.
Below are links for two that I found, although they look the same so probably same company or manufacturer. I thought there were more (there might be), but I did a real quick search:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0979NCJRQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_W3K0E2QAHCMQK7SH2SQG
https://opticsfactory.com/trijicon-rmr-adapter/RMRComverter
I don't know your budget, but there are also other red dots that have the same pattern as an rmr:
• Trijicon RMR • Trijicon SRO • Holosun HS407C • Holosun HS507C • Holosun HS508T • Riton X3 Tactix PRD • Swampox Kingslayer • Swampfox Liberty • Swampfox Justice • Vector Optics Frenzy
There's a few more but these are the main ones.
Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Maybe someone will come up with DIY plans for something like these.
If you're super paranoid like me, this is what I went with: https://www.amazon.com/Rothco-Ballistic-Goggles-Black-Clear/dp/B01A7BS12A/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=shooting%2Bgoggles&qid=1625876865&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-7&th=1 Might look kinda goofy but I figured these versus regular eye pro go from "your eye is in tact and you only got a black eye" to "maybe a bruise on your face somewhere" Just a thought, if regular stuff saved Scott from Kentucky Ballistics eye from a 50 you should still be fine lol
Protip: Esun PLA+ adheres VERY well to a smooth and naked glass bed heated to 60c. I've also printed successfully with Sunlu and Duramic. I've been printing without any adhesion at all (No glue, no hairspray, no tape etc) for weeks now and have gotten nothing but minty crisp prints. Glass bed with PLA+ is the perfect pair.
I have an enclosure I initially got for ABS but gave up on, so my print IS shielded from the fans and dust of my home, but I usually print with the front open or at least unzipped.
We use these APC modules at work to keep test equipment isolated from power grid issues.
I found it extremely helpful to skim through it cover to cover so that when I finally got my printer I had an idea what I was up against and could quickly diagnose problems
Very cool. I'm curious about the strength of the rail for mounting a stock, and if it would be stronger to bolt on a rail like this one with some longer screws and washers or flange nuts to distribute the load across more surface area.
I had the EXACT same thing happen to me with my Ender 3. Random layers being under extruded and it looks the same as the pictures you posted. What fixed it for me is a dual gear extruder this is the one I got. You will need to watch a YouTube video to properly calibrate your z-axis for it to work properly but it's pretty easy to do.
Here’s the link to the 2022 edition
Creality Weighable 3D Digital Spool Rack Filament Holder Built in Bearing
No idea how good it is, and there are no reviews but I came across this a few days ago.
I got mine from a small local store (outside US). The closest equivalent would be 1/8“ x 7“ I believe.
Electrodes you could use: * Zirconated - white (I used this) * Zirconated - brown (slightly different composition to white) * Lanthanated - black/gold/blue * Pure tungsten - Green * Ceriated - Grey
Maybe: * Cerium-Lanthan - pink?
The green, brown, and white are a higher percentage of tungsten and thus heavier.
Avoid: * Thorium aka Thoriated - yellow/red/purple (these are radioactive and are not recommended for cutting).
You should shop around for something cheaper but here's a quick Amazon link not exactly cheap but it's a very easy bolt to build.
I have one, and printed a ScARpion on it in with this filament. With the high temp head it did a really good job, but the supports can be a bitch to get off with how strong the material is, so a lot of cutting.
This was my first print using high temp, with all the supports and such still attached
He typically documents the build process and distributes plans as physical books. He's already written one book on home built panzerfaust and another on an early MANPAD launcher called the Fliegerfaust. His past builds got DD stamps from the ATF on a Form 1, so as long as your background is clean there's no reason you couldn't get a stamp and make the attempt yourself legally.
Check out Project Farm's videos on the different epoxy types. Basically, you can't go wrong with the original J-B Weld formula
>This is my go-to for cheap red-dots. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00200E0HM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I agree with this. Unless you are spending over 100$ you should just get cheapo amazon chinese shit. Its all made in the same factory, check it out
same exact model.
Yeah, I actually ordered them and have them with me right now, trying to make future builds cheaper in the long run so im not constantly buying hoffman reinforcement kits and if my print is off and i cant get the inserts out I can just use my bag of them
https://www.amazon.com/Z-LOK-260-4-RS-Threaded-Plastic/dp/B08QJJ7D8M
I had a similar issue on my Anet. My Z-Axis movement is controlled by a single threaded rod connected to a motor....turns out that connecter was loose
Effectively, at a certain height, for every full turn to move up in the Z axis it would 'slip' back half a turn
Solved the issue by getting a new Z coupler
Something similar to the below
That codes pretty easy.
1 rotation feeder
1/6 rotation bender forward and back
Repeat
Stepper shields already exist for arduino, you don't need those custom PC boards .
$27 for all the electronics and one stepper motor (no power supply). It's like $7 for extra motors and about the same for a power supply.
https://www.amazon.com/Quimat-Arduino-Contoller-Perfectly-Compatible/dp/B06XSC52SL/
lol thanks. It is esun's pla plus here's a link: https://www.amazon.com/eSUN-1-75mm-Purple-Printer-Filament/dp/B01EKEMUIG/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3FZX5ICMAH73L&keywords=purple+pla&qid=1658270393&sprefix=purple+pla%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-4
Caliper. You can get a inexpensive unit at Amazon with a digital readout. A temperature gun helps in confirming the print head temp, and bed temp, as well as bed heat uniformity. A good hex set, I like these:
A spray bottle with 50% pure water and 50% alcohol for part release, blue painter's tape.
What I used I had on hand, but you can find it on Amazon! Regular hardware stores may have lead wire, albeit in smaller diameters. The 7/32" is nice for convenience being nearly the same diameter as a 22 bullet.
Locally you might find it at any gun shops that cater to reloaders, as lead wire is commonly used by people who cast or swage bullets.
Neat, but tbh I'd rather have an adapter for something like a set of bed risers.
Printing a giant piece like that is going to be materials hungry but a small adapter that would let you take a couple of bed risers (which are already made out of durable plastic) and use them as rests would be a lot easier to knock out.
If you have and ender 3 - 5, take off the extruder arm and double check. You might have both now from running it so long with a print like that. first upgrade is a metal extruder set up to stop that from happening, if so. Easy fix and usually comes with a few more upgrades, like better springs, cap tube etc for real cheap. Just note if you use the springs, they're a little short and you'll have to move your z stop up the side frame to compensate.
Here's some Sunlu Pla+ rainbow. I've used it for a dragon with success but haven't tried it for a pew.
That's so weird. On the amazon page they list the same temps for both.
>Recommended Printing Temp/Nozzle Temperature: 240-260°C(464-500°F), Base Plate Temperature: 80-110°C(176-230°F)
Priline: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QNYHVKV
Hatchbox: https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-Polycarbonate-Filament-Dimensional-Transparent/dp/B07JK4XFVQ
>!By the way, that shit kind of sucks. Good for some things, but there are much brighter and longer lasting glow-in-the-dark paints out there if you're actually interested!!<
So I compete in 3gun and uspsa revolver, the 2 things I see those games that are a barrier to entry are shotgun shell caddies set up for quad loading. https://www.amazon.com/12S4-SPORT-Shell-Holder-Black/dp/B01EVQ17LO you would need 2-3 of these. And for uspsa revolver there’s these https://www.speedbeez.com/product/speed-beez-8-post-moon-clip-belt-rack/ as you can see there expensive.
I personally think that on top of spending money on guns ammo people see prices for these, things that are mainly practical only in the game, and go ouch maybe it’s not for me. Looking at your stuff gets me excited that someone like you could make stuff similar for a fraction of the price and maybe help new shooters enter without burning there wallet so bad.
I designed a quick and dirty quad load caddy but like you’re modular system much better. Mine just bolts over the belt, love the idea of quickly removable swappable items. No fiddling with bolts.
Anyway these are 2 things right off the top of my head. If you need more ideas you should go to a uspsa or 3gun match. There’s so many different ways to setup belts I’d give you endless possibilities. Plus it’s just plan fun. Keep up the good work and hope you make it to a match someday.
I’m going to print a setup based off you’re stuff soon.
I can second the 0.6mm carbide nozzle. Through almost a kilo of Polymaker PA6-CF with no noticeable depreciation in print quality. Using https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LC4H7T2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details made by Midwest Tungsten Service IL, US. Extremely hard material with excellent thermal properties, prints beautifully and though expensive the piece of mind is worth every dollar IMHO.
If you have a couple extra bucks the BTT with the touch screen is super sweet. the screen adds some functionality, and a couple features like a USB port for a thumbdrive and a full size sd reader.
https://www.amazon.com/BIGTREETECH-Control-Integrated-TMC2209-Printer/dp/B082HBZ3BH?th=1
I built one and ordered a 20mm-40mm screw kit. You'll definitely need a couple 40mm but forgot which other ones I used. This is the kit I ordered but you'll need to buy the nuts separately https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0728FBS77/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_ETX740YJC2NFWYE47T9G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
MOSISO Compatible with MacBook Pro 13 inch Case 2022 2021 2020 Release A2338 M1 A2289 A2251 with Touch Bar Touch ID, Heavy Duty Plastic Hard Shell Case with TPU Bumper & Keyboard Cover, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08C7HHL76/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_F2V9GC1P1X69HT658ZRA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Ok, I have read some people sand, clean, then do a light layer of clear coat too?
I’ve been printing with HT-PLA+ from filacube I’ll link below. I was previously printing sunlu PLA+ and as far as strength goes the HT-PLA+ seems to be holding up better.
This one here. It also has a laser in the LED housing. I originally got it for a pellet gun and realized it’s pretty solid and can take the 9mm recoil without losing zero but only after threadlocking it. Because it’s cheap you have to loosen the windage/elevation screws enough that you can get a good drop of blue threadlock on them, then zero with a boresight.
my favorite are jayo and sunlu, on amazon they print well and can be found as a set of two commonly on amazon for not too much.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085TH7T6H?ref\_=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_ud\_dp\_S7AX9P9J7Q9SH7VCNMCG
I ordered resealable filament vacuum bags:
YOOPAI Filament Storage Bag Vacuum Kit - 20Pack Cleaning Drying Sealed Bags (Plastic 13.2 x 12.7inch) for 3D Printer Filament, with Desiccants / Humidity Indicator Cards / Hand Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B096K4YLNZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AE28PXMZJYN8Y44D89SS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They never give you enough silica bags, so when you get a new roll, or buy something sealed, just keep the bag.
If it has been in open for a bit, I use this before sealing up:
SUNLU Filament Dryer, FilaDryer S1 Filament Drying Box, Compatible with 1.75mm, 2.85mm, 3.00mm 3D Printing Filaments, Dehydrator Storage Box, Filament Spool Holder, Blue Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JN5CCGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ECBSGQAAAF5SCCM2D42D
Since you can print from it, I’m hoping I can use it when I start playing with nylon
Depending on the stock you use, you may try something like this....
https://www.amazon.com/LimbSaver-Recoil-6-Position-Adjustable-Stocks/dp/B00Z6JOXQC
Limbsaver has been saving shoulders for a lot of years.
VPN should be normalised and not considered sus. Literally most businesses run VPNs daily for their working from home users to connect securely to their network.
As an individual, this just ads a layer of protection from the site your accessing and your ISP.
I like ProtonVPN personally
I used the gulf coast thermistor and just some basic steel extruder gears and as far as hot end goes just all micro Swiss upgrades there
Swiffer WetJet Hardwood and Floor Spray Mop Cleaner Starter Kit, Includes: 1 Power Mop, 10 Pads, Cleaning Solution, Batteries https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YQDD94M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6K62AV9HD6E6RGBP0N6P
You’re welcome
Yeah, you can find really cheap ones with knurls, that should make it so that it holds on to the plastic really well - that seems like it should do the trick, assuming the plastic around it doesn't melt too much...
>protonmail
Nope. Most e-mail providers can be legally persuaded or obligated to give over data. If you don't know what kind of code they're running server-side, don't trust it regardless, FOSS or not, 'privacy-centric' or not. No e-mail provider is going to jail or paying fines for you.
>vpngate
Same issue. VPN providers will sell you out faster than 50 cent beers at a ballgame. Mullvad is nice, though.
>brave
lol
>adblockplus
Use uBlock Origin, it's FOSS.
>so, what is the answer to all of this?
If you really need to e-mail people secretly for whatever reason, use PGP encryption. If someone compromises an account, theoretically (probably), they won't be able to get anything out of it. PGP is not bulletproof, though.
Brave is literally just Chinese spyware masquerading as yet another 'privacy-respecting' app. Can I prove it? No. Should you trust it just because I cannot prove it? No. In general I wouldn't really trust a browser that encourages you to use it by making up flashy fun things like whatever dumb crypto thing Brave is doing. Use Ungoogled Chromium or TOR browser.
This is all to say, be wary of this 'privacy' trend. It's little more than a marketing term. In most of these cases, there isn't actually anything holding up these claims. The actual answer to this is that no specific app will make you safe. Employing proper OPSEC and just plain common sense is enough most of the time.
Be careful if you're in Europe doing some illegal shit. I don't know about any of you but in America most of this is moot because our freedom of speech is broad and protected. Anything else is just getting comfortable (privacy, etc.).
Obviously, I was just looking for clarification if you knew or not where to look for a 3d printer and obviously just expressing my distress at your frame you melted in a toaster oven.
Assuming someone is a childish, immature dickhead for not being able to read minds or the invisible ink the post was finished with makes one look petty.
Oh yeah,
replacement tec-9, https://armandgun.shop/shop/pistols/buy-tec-9-pistols-super/ ($950)
3d printer, https://www.amazon.com/Comgrow-Creality-Ender-Aluminum-220x220x250mm/dp/B07BR3F9N6/ref=zg_bs_6066127011_1/131-2276668-7878550?pd_rd_i=B07BR3F9N6&psc=1 ($189)
Hope that helps you out
This was what I was thinking.
And replacement mlok hardware is actually pretty cheap
​
I don't know specifically that this is the best but it certainly works. I picked it because it had the highest temperature rating of all the epoxies at my local Home Depot that day.
This is the document where they officially recognized "continuous pull" as a machine gun on page 28.
This is their source on where they get the definition incorporating continuous pull from.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/0060132132/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_C110YNNZX9G9ETT6F69G
A 1978 firearms encyclopedia written by a firearms magazine journalist was referenced in 2004.
Thanks for the reply...
So I should go with a PLA+ for my G17 lower I am soon to print?
Obviously High temp carbon Nylon is the best, but I want to perfect the craft before I spend nearly $200 on a roll of filament.
Have you heard of Max PLA? I know that PLA+ and PLA pro are the same exact thing... But i just found this Max PLA that says its stronger than PLA+ but not sure if I should believe it due to the price.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BKZF441?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
Let me know what you thing, thanks again
FPV Watch Monitor 5.8Ghz 48CH Raceband Flysight 2inch Video Display 960 x 240 TFT LCD Monitor Real-time Wireless Mini Drone Wearable Watch for RC Racing Drone DIY FPV Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W7B19WN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J79GCSAS7Y90T4XB1RWH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You're using this filament right?
I have an unopened spool of it, ready to be used for some Ryobi tool mounts. But now I just want to remix a grip with the Ryobi logo...
OK, I have installed a new tip, leveled the bed, printed out a new configuration cube (which turned out perfect) and began attempting to print a Menendez mag again, this time using orange eSun PLA+ that had been dried in the Sunlu dryer for 24 hours prior.
Still having the same issues as above.
I also upgraded my extruder with this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B96QMN2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So.... I'm not sure what else to do. I used the same printing settings on the Menendez mag as I did with the cube (as much as possible, as the mag required a couple of other settings), but why is the problem only happening there?
eSUN PLA PRO (PLA+) 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1kg Spool, 1.75mm, Light Brown https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07982L94X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_RBTMFXHSP2PWE1FT698P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is the exact steel I used. Eowpower 4Pcs Stainless Steel 6mm x 200mm Round Rod Turning Lathe Bars Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072JPQX4Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_7QTC5DBFT90XP773PBWC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Flat heads if needed FANGOSS Rails T-Nut Screw Replacement Sets, Picatinny Rail Mount Long or Short Screws & Nuts Accessories with 3 Allen Wrench, Set of 12 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091TXH3DW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_A4AHZEAK319W8Z45R824
Yes the ender 3 max comes with one factory and it kind of sucks I like the dawn blade creality ones on Amazon they have an awesome coating that doesn’t require a glue stick or hair spray and it gets tacky/sticky when it get warm it’s awesome Dawnblade Creality Ender 3 Glass Bed Upgraded, 235x235x4mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RD6D2ZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_EX2A8EAYYK394Y59TDQ7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is the carry handle that's in the 2055 pack and I used the Pinty red dot that was in the readme
This is the one I got -- https://www.amazon.com/Pinty-1x22mm-Reflex-Anti-Reflection-Devices/dp/B07YKH4BR8
You are right looks like they are out on Amazon too...
https://www.amazon.com/Polymaker-Filament-1-75mm-Rigidity-Cardboard/dp/B099K2ZBMC/
Chinese New Year I guess...
OK. First a question. Are you using an all metal hotend? If not, then I would get one so you can print at a hotter temp. Do NOT print at those temps if you are running a stock ender. The tubing in the stock hot end will burn, releasing very harmful fumes. If you are using an all metal hotend, then here is a recommendation from me.
Print slow and hot! 30-40mm/s print speed. 260-270C. And if you have the funds, get a Creality Enclosure If you decide to get this enclosure, leave the zipper open a little so some hot air can escape. I found that it minimizes the chance for warp.
Since you are using PC. You may find luck with annealing your prints as soon as it’s finished. 90C in a conventional oven for 2 hours. It relieves internal stress of prints. I use PC-PBT, and I only anneal larger prints. A print with smaller dimensions(pistol frames for example) may lose its ductility. But since yours is CF filled, it may be fine.
If you are having layer adhesion/flexibility issues, try increasing your flow rate. You do not want any spaces between lines. Do not increase it too much, as you may broaden the part dimensions too much. I hope this helps.
When my ender was printing like that I bought a set of tl smoothers. They really improved my prind quality.
Zeelo TL-Smoother kit addon Module for Pattern Elimination Motor Filter Clipping Filter 3D Printer Motor Drivers Controller(Pack of 3pcs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QGB1Y88/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_FY04TEMHY4EFP07JNBVJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Flysight 5.8Ghz FPV Watch Racing Band 48Channel Receiver Mini Wearable Screen Monitor Watch with Raceband HD 2 Inch Real-IME Video Display for RC Drones Compatible with Bos200RC Gteng Watch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RSH34BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_TSZ24WQ08SCPGJFZFKAW
Here is the link not sure what happened to my original reply. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M9TS895. I use these for all kinds of shit they really come in handy. Another option is if you have ever built a Polymer 80 you can cut down the 3mm bit they send you and make a pin out of that in a pinch.
If you ever need a stash of 3mm pins these work great Pins
Also hopefully you have a set of good calipers. That would tell you if the pin or hole is in/out of spec. As others have mentioned most times the holes need to be chased with a drill bit. I clean mine out with a 3mm drill bit in a pin vise so that not too much material gets removed and I can have better control. Did you mean pins or actual roll pins? Typically roll pins aren’t used on Glocks.
How to Talk to Your Cat About Gun Safety: And Abstinence, Drugs, Satanism, and Other Dangers That Threaten Their Nine Lives https://www.amazon.com/dp/045149492X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GDT2RB86FW5BHMHEBECB
You can buy a length of those rods on amazon for pretty cheap, my brother got like a stupid big pack of them for some reason, here’s the link to a pack, it’s like $10 but you can probably find the same diameter rod elsewhere for a bit cheaper