What are /r/it's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

Vpn will work great on fiber optic. Try Mullvad. $5 a month, for great speeds and 5 devices. You can then get yourself a router and use that on bypass mode with theirs. Secure the router, and make sure to get one that will run everything through a VPN. You should have no problems then.

Source: I'm using mullvad on fiber optic. If I connect to the nearest VPN node, I get the exact same download and upload speeds, and my ping goes up only a few milliseconds.

Depending on who you are trying to hide from a VPN or even going over TOR isn't enough. If you want ultra privacy and security then look at https://www.qubes-os.org/ but it's cumbersome to setup if you aren't technical. The reason a VPN can't hide you even if they truly don't log your access is because latency, routes and fingerprints left from a client connecting to a server can still be used to profile the destination and the traffic with enough motivation and resources. For most use cases this isn't a concern but if you are in a country that monitors everything they can still prove you accessed something by creating fingerprints using everything detailed above. Is it probable this will happen to most people? No, but it is technically possible and is used by some state funded agencies to track and predict stuff. Best to just avoid such activities or just wipe cache and history or use incognito mode if it's just other users who use that machine.

You appear to be asking and answering your own question, however, I'll assume you did not understand the wikipedia/techguru answer...

In general, web hosting is a set of services that allows a web page to exist. It generally consists of a server running particular software that runs a website. Most often, websites need a domain name, which is purchased from a registrar, either by the customer or by the we hosting company.

Web hosting determines in large part, the speed, cost, and potentially the functionality of your website-- For example, a wordpress site can run on godaddy.com basic hosting, but cannot run on wix, simply because of the software allowed to run on the hosting server. Godaddy, however, in their basic package often runs wordpress (or your website) slowly due to the fact that they overload their servers with clients. Lastly, web hosting also provides (and pays for) the traffic your website generates and services on the internet. Many hosting companies limit bandwidth or charge you for excessive traffic-- some simply crash with too much traffic.

There is a lot more to it, however, that's the basics.

In short the answer is no. Do you have a KVM switch in your area? That will allow you to utilize your computer to control multiple others.

It might be worth it for you to look into https://symless.com/synergy

If you're imaging using PXE most of your imaging process should be no touch. Everything that isn't, can be accomplished via powershell (joining a domain, GPUdate, restarting, etc).

For security, SCP and using WinSCP is good.

If you want native File Explorer access, you can type ftp://serverIP in the navigation bar, or you can Add a Network Location from the ribbon menu --> Computer tab. It will prompt for your username/password and let you see directories/data, and it is generally faster to use, but less secure (credentials are transmitted in clear text using FTP, and in this case, doing so over the Internet)

haha "your first paragraph" - i can be long winded so thanks for your time lol. thats all there is to it. things become second nature the more we do it, i mean i know common ports off the top of my head but thats still less than 10 total. we're learning every day in this industry and we're always near a computer so effort in retaining things that we can easily look up just seems like a waste of time, like remembering phone numbers rather than just pulling up the contact in a smart phone.

best of luck with your endeavors. i picked up this book not long ago and just started from the beginning:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/1593279183?ref\_=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_ud\_dp\_WYT5W8R3RW1KRWQ3KRP7

That's a bummer you can't change it, seems maybe it could be at some point.

Many universities\ businesses have layers of gateways between users and the internet; an internet-facing edge gateway that NATs user bound replies to another gateway for, for example, a department or building, which in turn NATs the specific private subnets used there. Many also use geofencing or port\ web filtering, so that malicious\torrent\spam sites are blocked or so that Randy doesn't grind the Med School to a halt with his Steam downloads.

You can ask the school's IT if they can exempt you from filtering PS5 ports, but I don't think they'll do it, without an academic use-case.

People can get around this type of network chicanery with VPNs, but I don't know if PS5 supports this and it would certainly increase latency. I've used IPVanish and a few others. Mostly what I do is with hardware based point2point VPN tunnels so I'm not sure this is viable for you, and most are paid subscription type services. I guess another option would be to ask if there's a public wireless available, without port restrictions.

Good luck!

Probably require a network tool kit and some ethernet cables and crimps.

https://www.amazon.ca/Syba-50-Piece-Installation-Multi-Module-SY-ACC65047/dp/B0056HNRPW

And a switch and a network cabinet if possible.

I recommend you look for USB 3 to SATA adapter, because USB 2.0 is much slower. SATA "III" is just the speed (SATA I through III).

Something like this.

Powerline Ethernet adapter

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084CZMYNM

If you are on the same phase/leg of power between 2 outlets this will work, no surface cabling needed - then if you want additional ports in your office you can plug a small network switch in that office powerline port.

Powerline Ethernet adapter

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084CZMYNM

If you are on the same phase/leg of power between any 2 outlets in the house then this will work, no cabling needed and it's faster + more reliable than repeaters or mesh wireless.

You can add a 2nd wireless access point connected to the powerline Ethernet, and if you want additional wired network ports you can instead plug a small network switch in that powerline port.

https://haveibeenpwned.com

Not sure I understand what you mean but on this site you can enter your email and it will say if there has been a breach in the placed you signed up on.

Not sure if you can get a list but if u ask around to check their email you should get a few placed that has had data breached

Download App Manager to check it out

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.lb.app_manager&hl=en_US&gl=US

All apps have some kind of name, even if you don't see it - use App Manager to find the package name and other info, and you can find out more about it before uninstalling or disabling.

Get a chromebook and use it to change all your passwords.

Take the hard drive out of the suspected infected computer and set it aside. Buy a new replacement drive and install it and install OS and your apps and anti-virus: using NINITE https://ninite.com/

Put the drive in a box and label it "possible infected drive" and get a usb HD toaster ( https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=hard+drive+toaster&qid=1664239654&sr=8-5) and scan the drive from your computer.

I have been begging my wife to OK this purchase since Grandma's Boy came out..
But honestly, I do enjoy the 3 monitor setup with one in portrait mode for Notepad+/Excel/large web apps. I keep communication on screen 1 with a webcam installed over it, productivity on screen 2 & 3. I personally use https://www.amazon.com/WALI-Premium-Adjustable-Capacity-GSDM003/dp/B07VRB86RQ with a cheap L shaped desk from Staples. nothing to fancy or expensive.

Also invest in a decent programmable mouse like a Razer Trinity. Have the extra programmable macro buttons is great for repeated tasks. A keyboard with macro keys is pretty nice as well but most of my tasks can be boiled down to 20 or less individual actions.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Adapter/dp/B00NH13K8S/

​

Mini displayport/thunderbolt to displayport.

The real question is what are you trying to accomplish? VPN services (like NordVPN, ExpressVPN, etc.) only protect you from your own ISP.

All the tracking is done through cookies on your devices. So you are still being tracked.

Definatetely a refurb at your price point. You can find decent Lenovo i5s on Amazon. Quick search found this one https://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-ThinkPad-L560-i5-6300U-Multi-Language/dp/B07K789C2W/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1TT23RCW98D73&keywords=lenovo+laptop+refurbished+certified&qid=1660862687&sprefix=lenovo+laptop+refur%2Caps%2C108&sr=8-3

New you are looking at low end amd or Celeron or chromebook.

So just because it makes connections with accessories doesn't mean that the port is working each pin dose different things and if the power pins are damaged your going to need to replace it. Unfortunately it's hard to test without usb multi meters https://www.amazon.ca/DROK-Digital-Multimeter-Voltmeter-Capacitance/dp/B00J3JSEG6 if there is a phone repair shop nearby they can confirm my guess is pins are damaged. Unfortunately Apple doesnt have wetness indicators in charge ports that's a Samsung thing. The only other think it could be but unlikely with the resets is apple devices can technically be set to accessory mode only then won't take a charge. If it is the port Unfortunately with ipads it's a soldering job I would be careful where I bring that cheep repair shops will probably do more damage then hood in my opinion. I've seen whole phones be wrecked and the shop claims it's a pre existing issue.

I work phone and tablet repair samsung and Apple certified if you care about my qualifications

I finally swapped out two of my Asus monitors for dual https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JHGH42Y?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 would definitely recommend them and they'll save you a 4 hour drive!

StarTech.com Wireless USB WiFi Adapter – Dual Band AC600 Wireless Dongle - 2.4GHz / 5GHz - 802.11ac Wi-Fi Laptop Adapter (USB433ACD1X1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N37NKBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7YT386AP7J9HEPYZ6FPY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

What are these used for? One of my coworkers suggested this but I’m not sure what these do

The chipset bh519 specifically is bt5.1

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bluetooth-Computer-Supports-Headphones-Smartphone/dp/B095NRW7W2

This adaptor on Amazon uses the same chipset and in the “questions” section it is verified it works with the ps5 controller

I don't know about best but we use these in my office for our sales people

Pros: The microphone is clear and crisp The noise cancelling works great Sound quality is awesome Only $37

Cons: Cheap feeling material Wired only

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYYW3UA

Could I just purchase something like this?

Seagate Expansion 16TB External Hard Drive HDD - USB 3.0, with Rescue Data Recovery Services (STKP16000402) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091J9WYYG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_RE8BWTTTERTM9MHBG4DJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

13 of these and you're set 🤣

Yep, looks like it's the non-video type:

https://www.asus.com/support/FAQ/1042843

In order to connect 2 monitors to this laptop, one monitor would have to be a USB monitor and the other would be on HDMI. I don't know of any adapters that can do this other than the ones built into the USB monitor.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013XFJKGI

HDMI splitter would do it likely

HDMI Cable Splitter 1 in 2 Out HDMI Adapter Cable HDMI Male to Dual HDMI Female 1 to 2 Way, Support Two TVs at The Same Time, Signal One In Two Out https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RXK5K8R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_R886S33C7PWQFHEFV36T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

iFixit tool kits are awesome and decently priced. I own two of these (one for home and one for work):

https://smile.amazon.com/iFixit-IF145-299-4-Driver-Bit-64pc/dp/B0189YWOIO/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=V22NVGAL074L&keywords=ifixit+tool+kit&qid=1645556126&sprefix=ifi%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-4

I know these as, "parallel-port" "serial-port" and "com-port"(RS232)

Could be wrong.

You could connect some other PC with Rs232 to USB Adapter

But, since i dont know what your exactly tryin todo and i am not a expert with such "old" tech, this could also just not work. What do i know...

Similar issues with our Teams Room Systems.

You need to manage the EDID and HPD signals. If there isn't another device in the signal chain that can do this, an EDID emulator is usually the best option.

Something like one of these: https://www.amazon.com/EVanlak-Passthrough-Generrtion-Thunderbolt-Splitters-1920X1080/dp/B07YMS18T7

Choose the resolution of the EDID emulator like this based on what you want it to report to the PC as the recommended/preferred resolution to use.

I would try a Hirens bootable CD. You can clear the password with it. https://www.hirensbootcd.org/

You can also pull the drive out and use a docking station to connect it to another computer if you're just trying to get files off of it.

Hi! If the built in Windows Defender isn't able to handle it, the next thing you could try is installing a trial of another reputable antivirus program.

Here's a link to convenient autoinstaller of Malwarebytes:

https://ninite.com/malwarebytes/

It's only a free trial (and you should uninstall it after using it, or it will annoy you trying to get you to upgrade). It can usually detect and remove common malware.

(Of course, you never really know that everything has been removed, so it would be a bad idea to use the computer for truly sensitive purposes without at least completely reinstalling your operating system. That's more involved, though.)

There was some software I tried once that advertised that it would save activation keys, applications, and data for them, but to no avail. I honestly don't know of any utilities that can do this. However, there is a fast way to download a lot of common apps people generally use through the website I'm linking below. You shouldn't have to log back in to reinstall just create a local account on the PC. Just don't connect it to the internet when doing the reinstall or else newer versions of windows will try to force you to link an email to that install of windows. Best of luck man.

https://ninite.com/

Get an external USB enclosure for the SATA drive (this is for a 2.5" size drive)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S

Remove the drive from the Mac and install in your enclosure, and connect to Windows. Use HFSExplorer to access the data and copy to your PC

www.howtogeek.com/252111/how-to-read-a-mac-formatted-drive-on-a-windows-pc

Yeah this should work. But at this pricepoint for a cable you might just get a WiFi Network Camera ^^ (Price shown here in GER 80€ ~ $90)

If you want to setup home surveillance you can go with one of the TP-Link Tapo C200 (32€ ~ $38-40) Cameras, wich support local recording on SD, Cloud Access and even is compatible with iSpyConnect wich is a Windows Surveilance Software where you also can Record Data localy on your Harddrive.

Link to Cam: https://www.amazon.de/Tapo-C200-%C3%9Cberwachungskamera-Linsenschwenkung-1080p-Aufl%C3%B6sung/dp/B07XLML2YS/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=1P4CEREVNGPKX&keywords=tapo%2Bc200&qid=1643656085&sprefix=tapo%2Bc200%2Caps%2C92&sr=8-3&th=1

​

If you need another idea you can also dm me ^^

Do you think this would work: https://www.amazon.com/MutecPower-Active-Extension-chipsets-Booster/dp/B07M7B4F9H/ its usb 3 but it seems like my camera can function over usb 3

You propably need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/-/de/dp/B08D6MVCR6/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=usb+over+ethernet&qid=1643633631&sr=8-5

The thing you linked is just a USB-C Network Card and will not work with a USB Camera.

We used something similar for Printers wich worked okay. But I can imagine that you will add some Latency ( Lag ) or even have Quality downgrades when working with those.

Alternatively, I have NordVPN - if i login with that first, before i connect to my network, that would be fine right?

Corporate IT has told me they're only able to locate location after you connect to the network (so connecting via NordVPN first should be sufficient, correct?)

Thank you!

You mean a KVM switch like this?

https://www.amazon.com/CKL-Keyboard-Switcher-Computers-CKL-923HUA/dp/B07TD4ZTLB/

I am not recommending you purchase that particular model it it just an example.

1st pic is a cable modem/router. Plug your devices into the 4 yellow LAN ports, not the WAN port (nothing should go in that port)

2nd pic is the cable splitter, one goes to your cable TV box and one goes to your cable modem/router. This is normal, leave that as it is.

3rd pic is the cable TV box, that is the device you seem to want to connect to the network. Leave the coaxial cable in, and connect your white Ethernet cable into one of the 4 yellow ports and you should get a connection.

If you have a working wifi connection on your Comcast modem/router, that will work alongside the 4 yellow ports to provide wired and wireless together from the modem.

In order to get an Ethernet connection to a separate/far away room, and you don't want to run a long cable from the modem to the room, you can get a powerline Ethernet adapter pair to solve that without much hassle:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084CZMYNM

I suppose the applicable model is actually WA855RE

From the listing

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0195Y0A42/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_EF03MD1SZFKK5E38M44V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

>Wi-Fi Coverage up to 800 Square feet

depending on OP's space, that may be on the too small side.

CompTIA A+ Certification All-in-One Exam Guide, Tenth Edition (Exams 220-1001 & 220-1002) https://www.amazon.com/dp/1260454037/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_ZPQFAS2WSMAMR5RMWVS5

Read this, your local library will probably buy it if you put it on the book purchasing suggestion list(e-books are really handy to read anywhere anytime, and they have a search tool)

Watch professor Messer core 1 core 2 YouTube courses

Find test dumps of actual exam questions. Skills questions with images and the multiple choice

Schedule tests via CompTIA website. They have testing locations everywhere and with COVID spiking they probably have the option to take at home online. Make sure you pass first time because it’s 200 a pop

You don’t need college for the A+. Waste of gas, wear and tear on your car, parking money, and your time.

NETGEAR Nighthawk WiFi 6 Cable Modem Router with 90-day Cyber Threat Protection Subscription (CAX30S)  - Compatible with Xfinity, Spectrum, and Cox, AX2700 (Up to 2.7Gbps) DOCSIS 3.1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092VZBNCC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_B89XHKQZES9KBW5RY0ZV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Little bit less

NETGEAR Nighthawk Cable Modem WiFi Router Combo C7000-Compatible with Cable Providers Including Xfinity by Comcast, Spectrum, Cox for Cable Plans Up to 800Mbps | AC1900 WiFi Speed | DOCSIS 3.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781Z5PCL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_QH57GJ6CDF6W797XFT8D

CompTIA A+ Certification All-in-One Exam Guide, Tenth Edition (Exams 220-1001 & 220-1002) https://www.amazon.com/dp/1260454037/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_ZPQFAS2WSMAMR5RMWVS5

Read this, your local library will probably buy it if you put it on the book purchasing suggestion list(e-books are really handy to read anywhere anytime, and they have a search tool)

Watch professor Messer core 1 core 2 YouTube courses

Find test dumps of actual exam questions. Skills questions with images and the multiple choice

You don’t need college for the A+. Waste of gas, wear and tear on your car, parking money, and your time.

You could set this up, it is free and open source imaging client https://fogproject.org/

I also work for a small law firm, I do plan to eventually set up some automated process as well when I have time.

If using android , you can download with NewPipe , its open source. no ads on any videos, can play audio/video in background, download audio/video, ect. Also available on F-Droid

Just don't. MS Office is just overpriced a lot. Also their support policy is just absurd.

My parents in law needed a fresh OS install since my father in law clicks on everything and the older office suite doesn't work anymore since Microsoft decided it is too old.

But they paid and it works just fine for them, since they use the office suite basically as a type writer and a calculator.

I installed LibreOffice for them and works like a charm for them.

Personally I use LibreOffice for years now and allthough it is free I'm more than happy to donate to support their good work.

https://www.libreoffice.org/

Option 4 - powerline Ethernet adapter

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084CZMYNM

If you are on the same phase/leg of power between 2 outlets this will work, no surface cabling needed and it's faster + more reliable than wireless. Then if you want additional ports in your office you can plug a small network switch in that office powerline port.

I have a very similar setup to yours right now, and also interested in the answer - hypothetically MST will work if the KVM supports it, and perhaps a TB3 dock with MST support would pass everything through properly?

If this works then it'll be pretty slick, just one plug for your laptop and KVM working - albeit it's more than you're after and more expensive, I don't think there is a DP to TB3 adapter that will work like that and give you MST support. My Googling is also failing on that part specifically so I could be wrong, there might be a better/cheaper thing for that, but these two things together "should work". Maybe keep the packaging for return to be sure =]

ATEN 2-Port USB 3.0 4K DisplayPort MST KVMP Switch (Cables Included)-TAA Compliant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079RBB1L9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_8WXCQKXV3QRGHAZP6AXA

CalDigit TS3 Plus Thunderbolt 3 Dock - 87W Charging, 7X USB 3.1 Ports, USB-C Gen 2, DisplayPort, UHS-II SD Card Slot, Gigabit Ethernet for Mac & PC, Thunderbolt 4 Compatible (0.7m/2.3ft Cable) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CZPV8DF/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_RS9J8MG9QZ6D3PD03FM4

ANJI DEPOT Mini Kühlschrank, 28/32/40 Liter Fridge mit Kühl- und 220 Volt Steckdose für Autos, Büros und Schlafsäle (32L) https://www.amazon.de/dp/B08YJXTMW9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_WMA0WDFKVVSV6V73ZAVT

Instead of imaging, I would suggest something like deep freeze or smart shield instead. Those two cost money but toolwiz is free

I have never used that one but worth a shot and it would be way less of a pain than imaging a bunch of machines.

http://www.toolwiz.com/lead/toolwiz_time_freeze/

https://youtube-dl.org/ has been in the news a lot lately. It supports more sites than just YouTube. It's in pretty much all repos for Linux by default, brew on MacOS, and Chocolatey on Windows.

Or I suppose you could just download it and install it without a package manager. But, who does that?

Hello! Next time if you post the question directly in the post, you might get more responses.

The dedicated GPU is assigned and allocated to a specific VM by the provider. The resources are bounded to the VM regardless if VM is working or not and can't be used by another VM on the same server node.

On the DaaS company I'm working at, all of the resources are managed by us(CPU, RAM, GPU, etc.)

"Self promotion"

It depends on the type of programs you're looking to teach, but I've recently worked with a client of ours that are using Windows VMsfor their MEIT(Manufacturing, Engineering and IT) classes in Wisconsin. They used IBM Series client and Eclipse IDE to teach 100 students with 8 teachers.

However, we don't support macOS. I'm a hundred percent bias on this, but here's the case study freely available to check out. You might not go with this. but I think it can be relevant to get a technical overview of this migration with a use case that is similar to what you're looking for.

Cheers!

Hello!

I'm a little late for your interview and I hope it went well. I'm working at a DaaS company and we have been working on a tech glossary. It's not covering 100% of what is out there, but I think it can still give you an overview of technical terms.

Another good guide that could help you is the one by tech target.

First of all, it depends if you are using the 2.4GHz or 5GHz wireless band on your devices.

Secondly, it depends whether you are very close to the router or far away.

Tipically, with a 5GHz wireless band, while being very close to the router, depending on your device's network card antenna, should be very fast (of course I can't say the specific Mbps as I don't have Gigabit ethernet). Other users have pointed out that it can reach up to 450Mbps with current technology.

Perhaps try using https://librespeed.org instead of speedtest.[org/com/whatever], as ISPs can make it look like you have a faster connection than you really do.

You need to take account for other devices connected to your network.

Also you could change DNS servers: instead of using Google's 8.8.8.8 and 8.4.4.8, you can use Cloudflare's DNS: 1.1.1.1 and 1.0.0.1 (cloudflare's dns is the fastest in the world).

In conclusion, use Ethernet when possible if you want less latency and more speed.

Yes, it is possible to recover data if its not correctly overwritten, and depending on hardware the process is different. For mechanical HDD, you would use something like Boot and Nuke ( https://dban.org/ ) and run a DoD (Dept of Defense) overwrite or better. Basically it writes a 0 to every sector of the disk then does it again multiple times. DoD is the gold standard I believe but could be wrong. This also takes a good while as in 8+ hours depending on disk size

As for SSD usually you can get a program to discharge the SSD as it uses elecrons to store data, basically resetting it to all off or 0's. Theoretically there would be no way to recover this data, but Im not 100% positive.

When you use the recycling bin in Windows your not actually deleting the data but rather the area on the Hard drive that tells it where to find said data, the data is still there and can be recovered for a while. Now sooner or later Windows will write over that data when it needs that space as to Windows its considered empty space.

There are programs out there that replace your Recycling Bin that will delete the table entry like Windows normally does then go back to that space and write 0's over the data a few times. This makes it extremely difficult to recover without professional help

> If this is not the correct subreddit then please direct me to where I should go.

This subreddit is a redundant one about Italy.

Anyway sounds like your ISP's DNS went down. 8.8.8.8 is a good choice as it's Google DNS (its alternate is 8.8.4.4); but it's also good practice to set your second DNS server to an OpenDNS IP address too, so that in the unlikely even that one goes down you still have a different system available.

You could try a FTP server, VPN server, or a Cloud service (Google Drive,etc.). Or keep remoting in, it might be helpful to use something like https://www.getfilecloud.com/.

Hopefully any of this is somewhat helpful.

Is it screwed on the other side? You PC case should have a 2 removable sides. One is to look inside and the other conceals cables. Also you would need some kind of external housing for it to go into https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1J7KNWRNADD52&keywords=2.5+ssd+external+enclosure&qid=1636329032&sprefix=2.5+ssd+ex%2Caps%2C162&sr=8-3

I am sure you can find a better already external drive for $60.

Yeah EC is for both. There is a Exam Cram thats $25, thats the practice questions one. I never purchased that one. There are prac exams at the end of each chapter. I think this is the correct one

https://www.amazon.com/CompTIA-Core-220-1001-220-1002-Exam/dp/0789760576?ref\_=ast\_sto\_dp

If this version has USB 3.0, check this out.

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Monitor-Adapter-Compatible/dp/B08F2SZQYX?psc=1&pd\_rd\_w=DTOsm&pf\_rd\_p=38b4463a-ab00-4e12-95ab-b4e648981be5&pf\_rd\_r=ZSTY2BM0QQVHNSKNEYBZ&pd\_rd\_r=2a52f31d-61b7-44a2-8cad-a77191eaef1f...

RCA is used to connect Hifi Components to each other :)

just get speaker wire like this, no need for connectors on any side

length and gauge depends on your needs, but 14 gauge (2,5mm²) should be plenty enough

I mean you might be able to remove the drive is a SATA Drive or M.2, if it is SATA you can get a cable you can attach the drive to and use another computer to access the files https://www.amazon.com/SATA-Drive-Adapter-Converter-Power/dp/B07PVX682Q/ref=sr\_1\_2\_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=external%2Bdrive%2Bsata%2Bto%2Busb&qid=1632612885&sr=8-2-spons&smid=A1DT7LIXLEZM2M&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFBS1...

I really like that and may see about getting approval for it for future use. But for now I'm using this.

StarTech.com USB 3.1 (10Gbps) Single-Bay Dock for 2.5"/3.5" SATA SSD/HDD - USB 3.1 Hard Drive Docking Station with UASP (SDOCKU313) Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XLAZTWA/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_0K8FMEGKF3Z1T0ZBEMH6

Yea, it’s confusing until you look at it close up. But like gideon4432 said its an RJ-45 port for faxes and phones.

Good news is there are small adapters you can buy for less than $10 to connect your ethernet cable.

Thats the link for the amazon.

Phone Ethernet Adapter, Vcall RJ45 RJ11 Adapter,RJ45 to RJ11 Adapter, RJ11 Male to RJ45 Female Coupler, RJ45 to RJ11 Cable,Ethernet RJ45 8P8C to Phone Cord Line RJ11 6P4C Converter (2Pack,Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09B3PY851/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_E5RGQGTEYH4EN7N8KHTF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

We use these for most of the workstations in my office. Depending on your hardware you may need a higher power unit.

APC UPS, 600VA UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector, BE600M1 Backup Battery Power Supply, USB Charger, Back-UPS Series Uninterruptible Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWAZEIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MF3QKQ6QA40SPM9EHGYF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Hey there, I know this post is a few weeks old but I ran across it right now and think I might be able to help. I was an installation and repair tech for several years in a previous life and I miss helping people fix stuff like this!

According to the info you posted about your hardware setup, I can see that your Nighthawk is a DOCSIS 3.0 device. Cox has upgraded their headend equipment to utilize the DOCSIS 3.1 standard and I bet that most of the people in your area still have older 3.0 modems and for whatever reason that's creating the bottleneck in your upload speeds. A good way to tell if this is likely the case is if your upload speeds typically slow down at around the same time of day each time it occurs; but that doesn't matter much as I believe switching to a DOCSIS 3.1 modem would solve your upload speed issue. Here's one I'd recommend:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DY16W2Z/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_Z36M23XADJZ1RK3T97EA

I've also never been a fan of modem/wifi router combo devices as I believe they don't function as well as having separate devices for modem and routing functions. There are lots of good routers out there, but I personally use Google WiFi mesh routers because the coverage is excellent with the connection duties spread across multiple devices.

Best of luck, and feel free to message me if there's any other details that I can elaborate on to try and help you out!

I would recommend a kvm switch instead. This also gives you the ability to also use your mouse and keyboard and switch from your tower to laptop on a click.

Here is an example of a kvm switch from amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B083TC68VQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_1JK14C349TG4R8AK47F7

Do you have the actual camcorder with RCA output?

If so: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PS2TD9L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-lXMFbK570TAR

If not, you need to buy one in addition to the conversion hardware/software: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224080947856

A network switch will allow one Ethernet cable to be split into several others. You can run additional cables from the switch.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-5-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07S98YLHM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=network+switch&qid=1602346986&sprefix=network+s&sr=8-3

I personally use the tp link ethernet over power and find them very good. Though there can be mixed results, largely down to your home wiring. If you get them and they dont perform quite well try; - Ensure they are plugged directly into the wall (so not on a power strip). - different power points st home. For example in my office I have 3x power ports on wall. 2 work well giving good speed, 1 doesn't.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TL-PA4010PKIT-Passthrough-Powerline-Configuration-Required/dp/B01G5Q9E0O/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=tplink+powerline+adapter&qid=1602323017&sprefix=tplink&sr=8-4

First thing to note: a router and a switch are different things. Sometimes routers have switchports, sometimes switches can do routing, but most consumer-grade devices are one or the other.

In your scenario, you've taken an old router and made it a "gateway switch". I don't know what that really means because you've mixed terms together, but what I think it means is that you have a new router at the core of your network and you now have a 2nd router near your PS4 and TV to give you more Ethernet ports there. This is the wrong kind of device to do this job, you're better off getting a proper switch for your downstream devices: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.H3BFbJKDAJSX

To address your issue: I think you have a total of 3 NATs happening, if the situation is what I think it is - one from your ISP modem/router, one from your new router at the core and the 2nd "switch" router at the PS4. If you connect directly to your new router from PS4 over wifi, you still have a double NAT which aren't great for P2P network gaming, so you can't fix this until you resolve the double NAT between your ISP modem and your new router. This change sometimes requires calling the ISP and having them do the modem change, but you have to prepare your router accordingly with the WAN IP settings needed (usually DHCP from the ISP)

If you plug in a device straight into your ISP modem, what IP do you get?

If you plug in a device to your new core router, what IP do you get?

If you plug in a device to your 2nd router, what IP do you get?

Go with a cable where the anti snag cover isn't too obtrusive around the disconnect tab, like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C2B81K6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_Kq5AFbZA3BGNB

This one below has too much rubber around the tab making it an absolute bitch to remove the cable after it is inserted. Over time the rubber will harden making it that much harder to remove. Trust me I have 10 years IT experience with these shitty cables:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ITRH0Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_cu5AFbRHYVBPH

I think this is what you want:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076ZDQDN4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9gNrFbPVJQS5X

KVM Switch changes between 2 inputs for 1 output to monitor at the push of a button, these are normally meant to switch between 2 computers using the same keyboard/mouse/video but in your case it's just the video only (if I have that right).

There may be cheaper ones that are video-only, it's worth looking for if that's all you need.

You'd be fine honestly, the absolute most they'd ever do is warn you. Id know because i was usually the guy pulling people up for it. Most of the time, unless your spamming lots of downloads and bandwidth, they dont care. If you'd like to use the company wifi and value your privacy, A reputable VPN (NordVPN, ExpressVPN, etc.) And a secure browser like firefox with duckduckgo installed would be suffice. If it doesnt seem like the effort is worth, then just use your mobile data or Hotspot your mobile if you want to use a laptop. Hope this gives you some insight. :)

The 40 meters you describe is well within the max length of the cable (at least for CAT 5 & 6). The connector connecting the two segments together may be introducing loss. Try replacing that first then if it does not clear up, try another port on the switch end and/or a different Ethernet cable. If you can swing it go fully wireless with this or something similar: https://www.amazon.com/QW-CPE5450-Wireless-Bridge-Point/dp/B072Y5S8YX/

Wireless will need a clean line of sight.

Worked for an on-campus tech repair shop about 5-6 years ago while in school doing warranty work for Apple, Dell, HP and Lenovo. Unfortunately, this was an issue on a lot of models (especially HP/Dell). We frequently had to order extra parts under warranty due to unavoidable damage during disassembly. Best advice, go slow, be gentle, don’t force anything... and buy some of these...we always called them “black sticks”, basically just nylon pry tools that won’t mar plastic or aluminum:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DGNCNR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yPciCbXEQWXGA