Correction, this is not the booth skin. It's the gravity wars skin.
link: https://www.dropbox.com/s/eup3qoc3m24cuum/skin_sdvxiii_v3_150219.zip?dl=0
Gravity wars charts (which I need to update): https://mega.nz/#F!yMx3CZxR!RHSxa-EJDBoqBMM6otSRJQ
There's these ones, but I think they only come in yellow. Also the pancake guide has been moved to this site.
It's a mojibake.
Change the language, or (if you want to use the editor in Japanese for whatever reason) use Locale Emulator to run the editor in the Japanese locale.
config.ini
, located in the same folder as kshootmania.exe
. Note that the text file is in Shift-JIS encoding, so it's better to use Notepad++ or Visual Studio Code to edit the file.key=
, followed by a list of numbers. This is the list of 14 keycodes; 4 for BTs, 2 for FXs, 2 for left knob, 2 for right knob, 1 for pressing both FX keys, and etc...key=
in config.ini
to set the key.https://github.com/AntiMicro/antimicro use this to bind the controller stuff to keyboard inputs, also use keyboard instead. gamepad is terrible. trust me, i tried it.
Check my post history and/or this sub's posts (sort by "new"), a there are a lot of answers to question people have asked about building controller. Check especially the parts about encoder mounting with plywood, they are in quite recent post history.
For that parts list:
Consider longer wires. Wiring gets messier than you'd think.
Don't get those FX buttons: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2-pcs-50-33mm-Gaminator-Push-Button-Illuminated-Rectangle-Push-Button-arcade-push-buttons/32750405979.html They bulge high from the controller surface, very bad for ergonomics. Get "beatmania buttons" from ebay. Most are sold in sets but there are single ones too and they are cheap: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Rectangular-LED-Illuminated-Push-Buttons-For-Arcade-Beatmania-IIDX-DIY-Kits-/201684803171?hash=item2ef559de63:g:bf8AAOSw9r1WBhWr
I used 9mm birch plywood. It must be birch, it's very hard and doesn't bend like cheap plywoods. The price practically same for such a small amount. I went to a wood store where they cut me a piece, it cost just 5€ where the cutting cost was 2€.
Thanks for the info.
For the encoder, a quick idea I had was to cut a hole into the plywood, fit the encoder into the spot, and just glue it there (strong glue around the sides of the encoder; nothing really supporting the bottom of it). It'd be a pain to replace though, but I'm not really sure on the life-span of an encoder.
As for the switches, the lighter the spring force and travel distance to activate the switch, the better? I'm probably going to go for the 60mm buttons on the Pancake guide, but I'm not sure if they come with switches or springs?
Thank you! I used this size from this kit https://i.imgur.com/YQOTxhk.jpg
KOOTANS 1200Pcs Nitrile Rubber O Ring Kit 24 Sizes O Rings Assortment Kit Set Sealing Washer NBR Metric o-Ring Assortment for Plumbing, Gas, Automotive and Faucet Repair, Resist Oil and Heat O-Rings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QFVCNSN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_gAL1FbW0F59GV
> 「ミライプリズム (meets ひなビタ ver.)」
I mean this version https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=apM2E0DgZ20 It's from the 「チョコレートスマイルガールズ」 album (https://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B00SJTB580) and it sound much better than the original. I already own the original since I have all infinite infection charts.
That's most likely good news, then. My controller was acting up when I got it, too (including driver install issues), and it turned out that my USB port wasn't supplying enough power for the controller to do anything but light up. I invested in a USB hub with an external power source (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84) and the controller has been working perfectly ever since.
I dunno if this is the same problem you're having, but it might be worth a try?