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Providing enrichment is great, but I doubt this is anything but stressful considering your leo can barely turn around in that container. I know I've seen other users use collapsible pools for quick and easy indoor and outdoor adventures.
That’s a Murphy’s patternless. The first thing you’re going to want to do is get the stuck shed off his toes. You can soak him in warm water, not too hot, and carefully removed the skin w a q-tip. If you don’t remove the shed, he could lose his toes. http://aminoapps.com/p/9nlyw6 This is a care guide if you have any questions about husbandry that you wanted to clear up
I see your concern. I snagged a collapsible dog crate on Facebook marketplace that I use for my skink. It should work equally well for a leo (just make sure its closed and secure).
In my last post about the playpen people asked for a better look at it once it was revamped. Well here it is!
It uses the Prevue Small Animal Playpen on top of a soft 3-foot diameter washable area rug.
It has a heat mat from a drug store (the large flat kind that you can put under your back for sore muscles and such) for heat, along with a variety of hides and other enrichment items! Clean PVC pipes and fittings make up a few of them. Also driftwood, a knitted hide from Etsy, and a Cuddle Cave from A Gecko And His PJs on Instagram. It also includes a shallow water dish just in case they get thirsty!
Only one gecko at a time is in the playpen, of course, and I keep an eye on them the whole time. I would not leave them in here unattended as I’m sure they could find a way to escape (they haven’t yet). Haha
Adorable geck! However, there are some changes you should make to ensure he has a happy life with you. I’ll try to list them out below
- Like others have said, don’t use any type of sand! They accidentally ingest it with their food, which leads to impaction, which leads to (over time) death. Paper towels will work as a quick substitute
- Make sure he’s got at least three hideouts - one by his heat source, one on the opposite side, and one in the middle. If you’re on a budget, you can make these out of small tissue boxes or paper towel rolls
- Gutload his food and dust it with a calcium supplement. This makes sure he won’t get metabolic bone disease (look up pictures if you’d like, it’s awful). I recommend Repashy Calcium Plus
- If you use a heating pad, make sure you have a thermostat (around 90 degrees f) so that he doesn’t get burned
There is a lot more, but I touched on the basics. You definitely need to read some of the links that have been provided for you - if you’re a kid, try doing it with a parent. Your gecko is very young and, if you don’t make a big change right now, will not live a good life going forward. Please let me know if you have any questions, because I’d love to help you!
Yes I have an enclosed hide in their tank, I sometimes take it out either if I want to take my leopard gecko out of its cage or if I’m encouraging them to eat. Most of the time, my leopard gecko will sleep in their enclosed hide or just lays in it. The picture I took above doesn’t show the enclosed hide I have because I took it out for them to eat. Right after, I used a Framar bottle filled with water to mist their tank. I only use a couple of sprays each time which is about once a day. Every time the mist hits their skin, they get into this position.
I was thinking the same thing but the store nearby doesn't have a smaller version so I was thinking of this one:
Short so its not high
Be careful with giving her too much… Too much D3 can be toxic and fatal. I suggest getting Calcium without D3. Here’s a link to what I use on Amazon.
Use the calcium with D3 to dust her food.
yes uvb is highly recommended by vets, experts, and experienced owners! youll need to switch to a d3-less multivitamin though as uvb helps them naturally create their own d3. you can still give the repashy no more than once a month to ensure your leo is getting proper d3 if you’d like though lighting guide and here is a d3-less multivitamin
edit: also make sure you provide decent cover in your enclosure so there are places to escape the uvb and cryptic bask in it
Dried insects have almost no nutritional value and most leos won’t touch them anyway. If you're looking for a dietary supplement, there are liquid diets available, like Reptaboost that might help stimulate his appetite and get some food in him. You can drip it on their snout and tongue and let them lap it up (don't try to force feed).
Repta-boost does wonders for Leo’s with MBD!! Their jaws get so weak it’s painful for them to consume solid foods. Definitely take him to a vet, but get some repta-boost and add a dash of extra calcium in there. It saved one of my rescues!! Here’s a link for it on Amazon!:
Fluker's 73030 Insectivore/Carnivore High AMP Boost Reptile Supplement, 50gm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000634CL4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_QZCNTMS5KGBSEX5DR1HH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Sounds good. Vitamin deficiencies (particularly vitamin A) can cause lethargy and lack of appetite. You might even want to try a liquid diet as well, if he doesn't start eating on his own soon. Good luck. Keep us posted.
Govee Bluetooth Indoor Hygrometer Thermometer, Room Humidity and Temperature Sensor Gauge with Remote App Monitoring, Large LCD Display, Notification Alerts, 2 Years Data Storage Export, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y36FWTT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_38F5737TXWJAMH341FE0 (here is the link to it)
I know The reptile carpet isn’t the best for them and I’m working to get a bio build going as soon as I can, hopefully in the next couple months! I don’t want him getting his toes hurt on the carpet 🥺
I’ve got a CHE going almost 24/7, it keeps the air temps around 75 at the lowest (it averages 55-60 degrees indoors in my current situation so it’s the best I can do to combat that cold!)
I have a heat mat to supplement the CHE that’s controlled via this heat mat controller too, set to turn on at 88 and turn off at 91 degrees.
I recently learned they need a solid back wall to feel more secure so that’s the foam rock wall added in the back as of today!
I appreciate any points and tips!
You're welcome. With all that space you can definitely add more clutter in the form of leaf litter, artificial plants ("picks" would do well in loose substrate, if you don't want to use live plants), stones and branches.
is this a good lamp or do you have any suggestions?
I bought this dehumidifier that's renewable. Once it's soaked, just plug it in and heat evaporates all the moisture. It's not a perfect solution though. I in Florida where humidities reach crazy levels ☠️ and even with the dehumidifier it can only go down to 50%. Aside from investing a ton of money into an electric dehumidifier, there's not much more I can do. And with me moving to Utah in January (where it'll be nice and dry) it's not worth the investment.
Great! Yeah it looks smaller than it is haha. With the 55 make sure you have lots of plants and stuff to kind of make it not feel so open. As for bioactive I personally don’t but I know two people who have gotten kits/supplies from Josh’s Frogs.
Jumpstart thermostats work good on a budget, I really like this one from amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cGJxBb08D86B4
It's an Exo Terra rock hide for 20 bucks on amazon!! She loves sleeping in there and i put some moss to double as a humid hide. I got the size large🙂 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YDHDD2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_dmGCBbYA1A8BR
If you wanna stick to a carpeting still, they have this like, “mossy” carpet that’s actually a lot softer! Amazon has it on prime too! Exo Terra Moss Mat, 20 gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JDRD8Y6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Amazon! These are the ones I bought, but any fake ones work as long as they aren't sharp. I just wash them very well, and then I stabbed them into the styrofoam backdrop to add some upper decor and something he could rest on!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G5CMR7Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZVUhDbNHCZ6VX
Okay. You don’t need any lights, I was just making sure you didn’t have any. Temp on the warm side should stay around 90 F. If you don’t have a thermostat for your uth, you need to get one. I have this one: (https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-Controller-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S). You should also get a temp gun.
As far as hides go, you should have at least 3, one hot, one cool, and a moist hide. Even if they aren’t shedding, it’s good to keep one out at all times. Make sure he isn’t on loose substrate, I prefer tile or paper towel. And you should keep a pure calcium supplement out at all times. Just put some in a milk cap.
Here is my set up: https://imgur.com/a/lQAeCac
It’s very plain and I’m actually going to be buying some more stuff to put in soon, but it can give you an idea of the basic necessities.
Its out of stock unfortunately but heres something very similar! JAXPETY Wooden Bedside Table Solid Wood Legs, Nightstand End Table w/White Storage Drawer for Bedroom Living Room Office Home Furniture, White (1 PC) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MVWHVGT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KQDTM51GX65W91TY1JCY?psc=1
For food, water, and calcium I actually ordered this.
https://thegeckopia.com/products/geckopia-triple-dish
It’s very easy to clean and very compact. I don’t use the food side since I tong feed my girl.
I would recommend a halogen lamp. There’s a few different brands, but an easy to get one is this.
Any dome from, like, petsmart will work as long as it’s rated for the wattage you get.
You will need a dimming thermostat
I’ve never heard of that one, but it’s definitely possible you got a faulty one! I hope the bn-link one works well for you (:
Also, if you feel like splurging a bit, a temp gun is an awesome extra safety net to double check your temps. We use this one for all of our little buddies. Etekcity Infrared Thermometer 1080 Non-Contact Digital Temperature Gun for Cooking, Reptiles, Pizza Oven (Not for Human), 58℉ to 1022℉ (-50℃ to 550℃), Yellow and Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI632G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5W8A9GKE0005JHR90KPN
I also found a link to the bn-link thermostat we use! BN-LINK Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing Breeding Incubation Greenhouse, 40-108°F, 8.3A 1000W ETL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_57BEGTPKAW8KVA8XA6CS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That's ok, it's very common to mix them up so I wanted to double check! Heat mats need thermostats because they tend to overheat easily. This one is my favorite. Set it to 92F, plug the heat mat into it, and put the probe on the ground in the tank over the mat and below the bulb. It'll turn the mat off when it gets too hot. If you need a dimmer for your heat lamp, they make plug in dimmer attachments and Fluker's makes a dimming fixture.
I think you may be confusing thermometers for thermostats. Thermometers measure temperature/humidity. Thermostats are hooked directly into your heat source and regulate the energy output.
Do you have a way to measure the surface temperatures as well? That can help determine if you're providing an appropriately heated basking area.
You need a dimming thermostat with overhead heating. The one you're using is an on/off thermostat (that could potentially blow the bulb). How high up is the distance from the lamp to the basking area?
If you can't get a hold of a dimming thermostat, you can also use a manual dimmer switch. You'd just have to keep an eye on the temps and adjust it accordingly. Raising the lamp with a lamp stand might also help cool things down.
It gets hot in my house too, but I still use an over tank heater when it gets colder to bring the ambient temperature up and turn it off when it gets too warm.
Vitamin D3 is fat-soluble, and excess supplementation can create toxicity, which can prove fatal. I use Fluker’s Calcium without D3. You can get it off Amazon. Here’s a link to it.
Leopard geckos don’t need to be misted because they come from Iraq and Afghanistan which is a really dry, Rocky, arid environment
84 degrees on the warm side is perfectly fine. Do you have a way to measure surface temperatures. Ideally, you want the cool side to be in the low-mid 70s, the warm side to be in the low-mid 80s and a small basking around ranging between 90-100 (this is the spot right under the lamp). Are you using a thermostat to regulate the heat lamp?
Yes, you can get the big 6-pound container on Amazon (much cheaper). But you can find the smaller containers in just about any pet store.
You'll need to adjust the dimming thermostat until you get the temperatures you need. Ideally, the cold side of the enclosure should be in the low-mid 70s, the hot side should be in the low-mid 80s and the basking area (directly under the lamp, this is where the temperature probe should be) should be in the 90-100 range. You want the UVB to be on about 12 hours a day (basically sunrise to sunset).
Having digital thermometers on both sides of the enclosure, along with a surface temperature reader, will help with your adjustments and monitoring.
Leopard geckos need a heat gradient to properly thermoregulate. Do you have a heat reader to measure surface temperatures? Analog thermometers are notoriously inaccurate. The cool side of the tank should be in the mid 70s, the hot side should be roughly in the 80s, and they should have a small basking area in the 90-100 range (usually directly under the heat source). Typically, you'd want their humid hide to be somewhere in the middle.
Of course! I got the 40 inch version of this- it came out to 90$ with the 10% off coupon Amazon is currently offering.
CubiCubi Computer Small Desk, 40 inches with 2 Storage Drawers for Home Office Writing Desk, Makeup Vanity Console Table, Dark Rustic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0891QZFH5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_F94N3B1FD74S5G11N6B7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That's an issue. And to answer the question, yes, that's too hot. Ideally, you want the basking area under the lamp to be in the 90-100 range. If you can't afford a dimming thermostat at the moment, you can get a dimmer switch like this one to adjust the heat lamp. What kind of bulb are you using? What are the temperatures throughout the rest of the enclosure?
Here's a link ... I think 😂 sometimes my phone doesn't send the one I try to send 🤣 they have many different wattages a white bulb and black bulbs i also have a multi light hood so you don't have to change the. Out every time you just turn the bright lights off those suckers get hot!
I bought THIS thing to cut down on moisture when I was living in Florida. Since moving to Alabama where I don't have central heating and air (just a window unit), I went ahead and bought a full on dehumidifier, but this thing works fine to lower the humidity 15-20% (I THINK, it's been several months since I used it). Just plug it in to any outlet and it will burn the moisture out of the beads. And if you need to raise the humidity, I'm pretty sure things that create it are like $30 or so.
I use elastic paint strainers. They’re basically fine, mesh bags. You can get them on Amazon or most hardware stores. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPG5R6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Using a small animal playpen is another way to interact with them outside their enclosure.
I use this one in my classroom:
For substrate, the best choice will be a 70/30 organic topsoil/rinsed sand mix, after a 2-4 week quarantine period on paper towels.
For heat, use a 38 or 30L PAR halogen floodlight (like this) on a dimmable thermostat OR an on-off thermostat with a manual dimmer. Switch off of the heat mat as soon as possible.
I also strongly recommend UVB, such as an Arcadia ShadeDweller or a ZooMed T5 HO with a 5-7% UVB output.
If the temperature was on the heating pad then the 91ish is good. I'd even bump it up to 92F. If you can get a thermostat, it'd be really good for the gecko and probably a huge stress reliever for you! Here's my favorite out of the three I've owned. This one is also very popular but I haven't tried it personally.
An infrared laser thermometer will also be very helpful to double check surface temperatures since the digital thermometers don't always record those very well.
I think your humidity is fine. The hot side is dry enough so if the cool side is too humid he can go over there.
Here is a link to a heat source you can use while traveling https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00DJYELCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_84HA7VM7WXT0EM8SK2JP?psc=1&ref_=d6k_applink_bb_marketplace And I suggest looking up LeopardGecko on youtube. She has tons of videos, one including travel tips!
There’re a couple videos on YouTube (one from Leopard Gecko and one from GoHerping) which discuss transporting reptiles that are helpful. You’ll probably have to get/make a small enclosure for each gecko, and then use one of those reptile heat packs to keep warm. I found this one that works for up to 72 hours: 72-hour Uniheat Heat Pack for Shipping Plants, Live Insects, Reptiles, Tropical Fish https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00DJYELCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_84HA7VM7WXT0EM8SK2JP?psc=1
hi friend! i am currently using these digital readers i purchased off of amazon
Limited-time deal: Veanic 4-Pack Mini Digital Electronic Temperature Humidity Meters Gauge Indoor Thermometer Hygrometer LCD Display Fahrenheit (℉) for Humidors, Greenhouse, Garden, Cellar, Fridge, Closet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GNMKYCZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_S7PDFF1B18DBPN9P1HEQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
i will consider purchasing a dehumidifier for sure !! as for the gauge i’ve never tried one! i’ve only ever used these digital ones and those circle dial type readers before. i will pick up a gauge and see if that helps
thank you !!
Yes he can go underneath he loves going under it! Here’s the link to it I also bought small slate pieces to go under it! ACKEIVTO Reptile Basking Platform Tortoise Rock Plate Turtle Bathing Slate Feeding Food Dish Resting Terrace 812IN https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JGD71RW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_X1ZN3YY4APAYGF8S6NCW
I got this one, it's HUGE and the sides are fabric so there's no way to escape
Amakunft Portable Small Animals Playpen, Outdoor/Indoor Pop Open Pet Exercise Fence, Guinea Pig Accessories Metal Wire Yard Fence C&C Cage Tent for Rabbits, Hamster, Chinchillas and Hedgehogs https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07P9YVJTP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WS08B0E3Z387ZVR7CXKZ
I really like this one. It works better than others I've tried, and it's one of the cheapest you can get.
If you're limited to chain pet stores, Petco has one.
Once you get it, follow the instructions to set it to 92F and tape the probe to the ground in the warm hide. If it can't reach that temperature then you should check to make sure the mat hasn't come away from the bottom of the tank, and get a new mat if it's placed well but still can't get hot enough.
I used a wet mix called Repta-Boost if that’s what you’re thinking of. Saved my emergency rescues every time. Here’s the link :) https://www.amazon.com/Fluker-Labs-Insectivore-Carnivore-Supplement/dp/B000634CL4
So I’m stoned, and after a handful of vague googles I found it on Amazon. Mine didn’t come with a scrubbie though here
We bought two of these and our boys love their big leo playground.
We fill ours with some good-sized leftover cork chunks, a little hamster house they can climb on, and other hides and branches for them to explore.
Get some betadine. It's safe to use on reptiles.
"Amazon.com: Betadine First Aid Solution 8 Ounces Povidone Iodine Antiseptic with No-Sting Promise (Packaging May Vary): Health & Personal Care" https://www.amazon.com/Betadine-Solution-Povidone-Antiseptic-Infection/dp/B002C2O5EQ
I’m going through the same situation. I posted this same question a while back and got this response which makes sense to me. From what I can tell, they have been going down, but if you are concerned, you could get away with taking the calcium bowl out. From what it sounds like, your boy is taking in more calcium than he can use. He should be perfectly fine with dusted insects.
Also, idk what calcium and vitamins you are using, but I’d highly suggest Repashy Calcium Plus. It’s a perfect balance of all the vitamins, calcium, and d3 you would need as long as you dust every feeding!
Hope this is helpful!
Sorry for all bombardment of questions 😅 but i got one more. Whats your opinion on something like this? light fixture
I have an exo terra one I found on amazon (link below). I love the deep heat projector I feel like it has a more directed beam of heat so I use it with real stones like slate to create caves that allow my leopard geckos to get warm with still being hidden. I still like my CHE but will probably "upgrade" to a DHP in the future since they can be hard to find in the states.
BN-LINK Digital Heat Mat... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share this is the thermostat i use its always worked very well, yes i spray my humid hide once a day with a spray bottle
POPETPOP Reptile Water Bowl-Automatic Reptile Water Fountain-Turtle Water Dispenser Bottle Tortoise Food Water Bowl Feeding Dish for Lizards Snake-Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V2LN52Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vQyTFbZZMFF9A
i bought this combination of heat pad and thermostat: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079MHBDNW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
i was worried it would be crap because its decently priced, but the temperature is 100% perfect. the only issue i've had (im sure most pads have it) is that the adhesive came off after a few days. i had to prop something under the pad to keep it up against the glass. im sure there's a better adhesive that could be used
If you're having problems with cleaning your hides, go into your local vet and ask if you can buy Chlorhexidine from them. It's what they use to clean and sterilize their tools and cages, and works wonders for getting rid of odors and cleaning up. You can order the generic from Amazon, but sometimes vets will give you the "for Vets only" stuff.) Chlorhexidine on Amazon
Don't worry about swapping out hides too much, unless you're doing it all the time. Too much swapping can cause stress, but changes every once in a while will encourage exploration. :D
That’s okay, here’s the link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GNMKYCZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MA4LFb4EMBBVR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They’re fairly cheap so probably not the most precise, but they work well for my tanks and seem to be pretty accurate.
It takes a while for them to warm up, but remember 90 isnt very different from our own body heat, so it wont really feel hot or anything. Make sure its making good contact with the floor of your tank.
Get an infared temp gun, they are really cheap and make checking temps super easy and its very important to know your temperatures. About $15 on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=lp_393284011_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1503297617&sr=1-1
I would get a thermostat ASAP. They're only 20$ on amazon for a cheap one! 98 isn't very comfortable and you're right that he might not be moving despite it being hot because he's still scared. My worry would just be if the heating pad spiked or something malfunctioned and it went above 100 degrees, which is burn territory.
If you're really worried and can afford the thermostat now, I would buy one. :)
haha thanks i got it on amazon i was scared cause some reviews said it came in broken but this one came in one piece haha this is the link if you want to check it out :-)! Penn-Plax Shale Step Ledge and Cave Hide-Out Medium Aquarium Resin https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018CJNEI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ymwwAbAX107WK
I wouldn't worry about the eating at all! Leos take a while to settle in and get used to their new surroundings and my girl waited about a week before she was ready to eat. Your gecko is just busy getting used to its new environment and I wouldn't be concerned unless it goes on for a few weeks or more.
As for the heating mat, if you don't already have one, my recommendation would be to purchase a thermostat for it that can directly regulate the temperature. Amazon has several good options. I use this one and haven't had any issues with it but there are plenty of other cheaper options.
Edit: I'm not sure what temperature gauge you're using now, but chances are you'll get much more accurate readings with the laser heat gun and be able to tell exactly what your floor temps are, which will tell you if you actually are having an issue with the mat heating the cool side or if your readings are just weird.
He definitely loves it but my other girl doesn't really use it much so I guess it depends. They're relatively inexpensive from Amazon so I'd say it's worth a try! :)
Currently they each have one of these. But it's a little too big for their 20L so I ordered a pair of these.
The heat mat is preferred, since leopard geckos absorb heat for digestion thru their tummies only. For all my tanks i use the zoo med reptitherm heat pads. You will want one that takes up between 1/4 and 1/3 of the bottom of the tank. I hook all mine up to one of these...Century Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing, 40-108°F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_s9TUCb1WZ3HE7 i suggest also buying the heat pad off amazon as well, you will pay AT LEAST double if you buy at a brick and mortar store. As for the liner i just go to walmart and buy my liner there in the kitchen section.
Thanks for being so responsible and loving already!!! You will be a great geck parent.
As stated, your substrate will affect how the heat is transferred. I suggest getting an infrared temperature gun. It uses a laser to measure the surface temperature where your gecko will be laying, so you can fiddle with the thermostat to find the perfect heat setting. I got this one on amazon!
Usually when a gecko isn't eating, 90% of the time it's due to temps being off. They require certain temperatures to properly digest, when they don't get these temps, they can't digest just so instead they just stop eating. Otherwise food would just rot in their gut. Even being 5 degrees off can make a huge difference. You want a solid 90-91f on the warm side. You can get temp guns for $15 off on amazon if you're in the states. I love them, because it can instantly read a temp anywhere in the tank and they're accurate. I have the one and I use it for checking the temps of all my guys.
Instead use a heat mat with a thermostat. Ive got a link to the one i use on amazon here
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079M2F179/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Also may i ask what substrate that is?
We have an under tank heater with thermostat on the way from amazon and this for moist hide will be on the left maybe might move stuff around a bit and want to get more of the brown for that desert look
no problem, this is the kinda stuff i mean, its not super thick but its extremely strong, just gotta make sure whichever one you get is VHB ( very high bond)
I would say humidifier is the easiest route to be able to control it more, here is a link to the one I have that works great https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MC7XVY3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Gz.DFb8FQPPGN
If you can't afford one or you need even more humidity taken out, look up how to do rice socks for humidity. They aren't always the prettiest but I've heard they do wonders!
For the topsoil I used Scotts Premium Topsoil.
Play Sand
If you hook up the heating pad to a thermostat, that will ensure it stays at 90. Heat pads alone without regulation often overheat and cause digestive issue, and can start fires or cause burns in extreme cases.
She will defiantly get lighter, at the very least when her spot pattern develops and the pigment spaces out. In general though they can be rather dull when cold or dehydrated
Yep! I have the carpet and all you need to do is tweak the temperature a bit so it’s as warm as it needs to be on top; I recommend also getting an infrared thermometer gun to easily check surface temperatures.
I’m referring to thermostats with probes, which I’ll link here: https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108°F/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=thermostat+reptile&qid=1597022733&sr=8-3
The probe will go under the carpet in the middle of the heat mat, and then use the heat gun or any meat thermometer or surface thermometer to check the heat on top of the carpet, and then tweak the temperature the thermostat is at to match around 90 F/30 C on the warm side (on top of the carpet).
https://www.amazon.com/Govee-Temperature-Humidity-Notification-Monitor/dp/B07Y36FWTT
This one. Its cheap, accurate, doubles as a hygrometer for humidity measurement, and connects to your phone and alerts you when temp/humidity falls out of range that you select.
That's super good and nice! You should put the thermometers/humidity sensors closer to the bottom where the gecko will be. The other thing you can do is buy an infrared thermometer so you'll know the temp in any part of the tank. I'm looking to get one myself when I can start working again. Here's the one I want. Enjoy your new friend. C: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI632G?tag=goherping-20
Thats way too cold ,ambient should be around 80°f(27°c) and the hot side should be about 90°f(32°c) ,also females would go off food for a long time when they are ovulating . And try to take note on her weight , try other feeder insects or Repashy grub pie geckos seem to go crazy for it . youtube leopardgeckotalk
I just went on amazon and found this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YDHDD2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_W7E0EbRWNGXZ0 I got a medium and may upgrade to a large later on. He loves it and is in it most of the time.
Well the one I sent you is good for the clasp and the next one is a lid with a window. Window has a knob that turns so it can lock/unlock. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QFQ2ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_phlMCbKFM4BZY
Honestly I struggled with that for awhile and this works great for me https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe-Reflector-Thermostat-Controller/dp/B07NR2SKHN/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?crid=2TI4JQ6BYBSVT&keywords=150w+reptile+heat+lamp+clamp+bulb&qid=1671344146&sprefix=150w+reptile+heat+lamp+clamp+bulb+%2Caps%2C321&... I just keep the lamp a bit above the cage and it keeps it nice n warm
In that case, they make tops for enclosures that are more of a solid, metal linkage than the mesh one pictured. They're more durable than the current lid you have and depending on the cat's size, won't get damaged under their weight.
For reference, this is what I'm referring to.
You can usually find these on Amazon, in pet stores, or you can try asking on Kijiji or Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace.
no it's totally reasonable to be afraid. I can't imagine it was easy for you or your gecko.
so for humid hides you technically do have a few more options other than moss and paper towel. in your current humid hide you could try using cocofiber. I'd assume it's much easier to pass than moss given he's not eating mouthfuls. but if that's still making you nervous, you could try a wet rock.
I have no idea how they work but it apparently works great and doesn't require substrate. you just fill the top with water and it does the rest for you
if you find a cat jumping up on the screen top, this is a good deterrent https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TBST91J/?coliid=I32ZVFV7SY2ZA4&colid=1PXR5JIOABBJK&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
The probe thermometer you're using measures air, not surface temperatures and it's far too high. Here's a guide to temperature gradients that might help. You also need a surface thermometer to properly measure and adjust the basking area temperature. Overhead heat sources should also be regulated with a digital thermostat if you don't already have one.
Make sure they have enough water and feed before you go.
I have a wifi controlled outlet that is dumb easy to setup and use, but I also have it on a timer so they she has overhead heat for 10 hours a day. Heat mat goes on 24/7 because I have a hard time regulating her cage otherwise.
It's never failed me before and I can remotely turn it on/off as well. BN-LINK WiFi Heavy Duty Smart Plug Outlet, No Hub Required with Timer Function, White, Compatible with Alexa and Google Assistant, 2.4 Ghz Network Only (2 Pack) - - Amazon.com
This is the one I use and I don't have any issues:
Are you feeding them fruit/veg? If so, you should remove the leftover each day. I also have buffalo beetles to help keep the cage clean.
I don't, but I did get this
Amazon.com : OMEM Reptiles Hideout Humidification Cave with Basin for Gecko (Large) : Pet Supplies
and that thing maintains the humidity in my cage perfectly. I put the tiniest amount of water in the top basin [TINY] and it maintains 30-40%. If I add too much water/too frequently it shoots up to >70% so be careful.
My girl loves it the most out of all her hides :)
This is the greenery I got, it was a ton so I was able to cut it in half and put it on both sides of the tank Amazon.com : Fluker's Repta Vines-Pothos for Reptiles and Amphibians : Pet Habitat Decor Plants : Pet Supplies
She loves to shit in the coconut. It's like her litterbox lol
Not sure if anyone else suggested it, but while it won't help long term with parasites or illness, you can get this or something similar to force feed to help with nutrition for now. You would need to get a small plastic syringe (no needle) from a local pharmacy to use, but this one comes recommended from the local exotics vet: Oxbow Animal Health Critical... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006H38VZ0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Quickest, cheapest option would be a tupperware with a small hole she can fit through filled with moist spagnum moss or topsoil.
If you don’t mind spending money on one this is the one I have (medium or large will do): https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Gecko-Reptiles-Medium/dp/B008YDHDD2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=1TY944A6VWWKK&keywords=leopard+gecko+moist+hide+rock&qid=1669654876&sprefix=leopard+gecko+moist+hide+rock%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-4
What stuff for checking the humidity and temp are you looking at? I use a zoo med thermometer probe (plus a temp gun, but that's bc I have overhead heating) and a repti zoo thermometer/hygrometer. They weren't very expensive so i hope this helps. Here are the links:
thermometer/hygrometer for tank temp/humidity
zoo med thermometer to monitor hot side
(Idk where you're at so I'm not sure how available these are to you, or if it's expensive for you.)
Do you have a thermostat for whatever type of heating you're using? If you're using a heat lamp, what kind is it and how far away from the hot spot is it? If it's too far away and the wattage is too low then it won't heat the hot spot properly.
this specific product was only released this year and a very similar one I used from 2016 til the new one came out... before that I mixed it myself with sarah desert sand and red clay... my bathroom was always layered with a red dust after it and so was the inside of my nose xD way more cleaner this way xD the new one basically has even a bit more clay in it (more like I would have mixed it myself) and also less to no little rocks :)
Thats the one I am using:
https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Trixie-Cave-Sand-Terrariums-Dark/dp/B00435I66S
as others have mentioned, a humid hide is critical to help him shed. a clean jar with a moist paper towel can work until you wanna upgrade! it needs to go around the middle of the heat gradient in the tank, right about where that plant is.
i would switch out a smaller jar for his bathroom spot (he'll be accustomed to pooping right there, so put it in the same place!), then add another jar with a damp paper towel around the middle of the tank. you'll need to replace/re-moisten the paper towel daily.
as for feeding and making sure he gets the nutrients he needs to shed well, live bugs are much much better! crickets are good to switch it up from just mealworms, but i prefer dubia roaches because they're much less noisy and less stinky if you clean up their bin every day or so. they also..die a lot less quickly than crickets, lol. i've just started keeping/feeding my leo dubias and it's a lot easier/quicker than it sounds! you can get a bunch online and set them up to breed so you have an essentially infinite supply.
but, just to start, i recommend tweezer-feeding live mealworms. be sure the tweezers aren't sharp. my guy usually smacks his face into the floor trying to hunt, so i feed him mealworms with these bamboo tweezers: https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Bamboo-Tweezers-Feeding/dp/B00M7Y8770
i put him in a separate tank (his old 20gal) to hunt the dubias because he doesn't even acknowledge them when he has them tweezer-fed.
also as has been mentioned, be sure to do a d3 calcium dusting each feeding, and dust a multivitamin on 3 or so of his worms about once a week!
best of luck, feel free to message me with any more questions you might have (~:
so I found this Thermostat probe placement : leopardgeckos (reddit.com)
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which looks like they used the temp controller you would use for a heating pad and just stuck the probe where the heat would hit the substrate? if you don't have one of those for your heat mat [ignore me if you do sorry] I use this one Amazon.com: BN-LINK Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing Breeding Incubation Greenhouse, 40-108°F, 8.3A 1000W ETL Listed : Pet Supplies
they don't have any comments yet but keeping my eye on it. for now I'm just checking it with a temp gun 3x daily to make sure it's maintaining proper temp but I'd like to not worry about it anymore!
For a baby? Just paper towels. When they get older/bigger , I use this : https://www.amazon.com/Bio-Dude-Bioactive-Substrate-terrariums/dp/B07TS92LTS/ref=asc_df_B07TS92LTS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385180922523&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12424332049279495255&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&a...