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It's up on Amazon for pre-order. $249.99. Sept. 1st release date.
I got mine on Amazon but they were a lot cheaper at the time. Star Wars Lightsaber Flatware Utensil Set (Includes Luke Fork, Yoda Spoon, and Vader Knife) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BWCKFXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ywFsCb62280VM
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YHZE0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_72o3Fb4MRZD1R is a fun project. you will also need a decent iron to have reliable results. here's what looks like a good affordable option https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XG1PD6D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_45o3FbVCQYPPF
- Yep, board already has a built-in resistor so you don't need to worry about it. It doesn't hurt to have multiple data resistors on the same line.
- I'm using these for my next Neopixel blade builds: https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-WS2812B-Individual-Addressable-Non-waterproof/dp/B01CDTEGGO
I built one blade using the Alitove ones but they're not as bright and colours are skewed warmer. - For Neopixel you'd want a 3.7V li-ion battery with at least 10A rating, 15A is preferred. Usually we recommend KeepPower "high discharge" type batteries that are rated at 15A and usually have capacities of 3000mAh or 3120mAH.
- Still experimenting with this. I've had better success with the 28mm bass speaker from TCSS which are the VECO speakers. Some people swear by Smuggler's Outpost speakers which I'll be trying in the next build. Speakers don't need a resistor and polarity doesn't matter for lightsaber building. You can wire the polarity properly if you really feel like it.
- You can use 20 AWG wire for everything... they're just thick so they'll take up a lot of room. Generally you want 22 AWG for your power wires and you can get away with 28-30AWG for the other things. The Proffieboard manual has a chart on appropriate wire gauges.
- Probably... but I can't think of any at the moment.
We added #18 o-rings found at Lowes, replaced the blade retention screw with a 8-32 x .3" red thumb screw, and added our own covertech wheels found on Amazon. I want to be done with the exterior of the sabers, so I can turn my attention to adding sound to the interiors.
I used this stuff off Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K9M45EA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KtugCb9ZG5HAK
Here's what it looks like on my saber. Redid it a little cleaner since this though.
I just got this one linked below, it is cheap too and works great. I am hooked now and will be buying more. From the looks ours comes from the same designer.
He has just put them up as an option on his store now and calling them “A Skilled One” starting at AUD$185 each.
https://discord.com/invite/nsa9wCz
That is the discord for the galaxys edge subreddit. There is a trading channel and you can post in there saying you're looking to buy some sabers and someone might reply. Prices are all over but the community is about supporting the community and I feel like you'll get a better deal there than on ebay.
> Honestly, I think the 22mm is much better.
That's going to be a difficult sell for most people. This is the kind of thing blind 'taste' tests are good for (" which saber did you choose? Oh! You chose [saber speaker taste test video cuts to clip from The Great Courses Plus/War of Heros/Raycons/NordVPN]")
Ordered these the other day to do the same thing hopefully they work well.
Mop and Broom Organizer Garage Tool Storage Rack Stainless Steel Broom Gripper Mop Holder with 3M Self Adhesive, 3 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FKL1C5H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_46VAAANQSB43WM03ENPM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use these. Painted them black and used a sharpie to color the exposed white velcro strips to match my favorite blade color. They've never fallen out and have been yanked on by an 11 year old boy who doesn't believe me when I say I'll sell him to Wal-Mart if he breaks my sabers.
That's where i got mine from and it works very well Sturdy as fuck
i've had lots of luck with the BTF lighting ones
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDTEGGO/ref=dp_iou_view_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
but lately i've been purchasing KR Sabers purpose designed strips. and they've been fantastic. SUPER simple to solder to.
his V2 ones are currently sold out but it looks like he has V1 ones
USB 3.0 Card Reader,Beikell High-speed SD/Micro SD Card Reader Memory Card Adapter-Supports SD/Micro SD/TF/SDHC/SDXC/MMC-Compatible with Windows,OS https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07L9VT8YY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6G7VP5CRS2V6H8C6REX7
Would you recommend this?
I plan on acquiring This Cable but I'm not sure if it'll fit the build. Anyone with experience setting up a Proffieboard v2.2 with This Chassis Bit able to help me out?
Could be a bad battery.
They can be tested with one of these
Make sure your USB port is 5v and 1 Amp or below. Some are 2.1a fast chargers and will damage batteries.
CD will probably send you a new battery.
I'm testing these 1A max chargers to recommend to my customers and all LGT saber owners.
Could be a bad battery.
They can be tested with one of these
Make sure your USB port is 5v and 1 Amp or below. Some are 2.1a fast chargers and will damage batteries.
CD will probably send you a new battery.
I'm testing these 1A max chargers to recommend to my customers and all LGT saber owners.
sure thing, heres a link to them https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CDTEGGO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
like I said I saw that other people had built with them so I assumed they were fine
Sywon Full Set 60W 110V Electric Soldering Iron Kit with Adjustable Temperature Welding Iron, 5pcs Tips, Desoldering Pump, 2pcs Tweezers, Tin Wire Tube, Stand and 6pcs Aid Tools in PU Carry Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E1ISGH0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_HB5D41W5YJCYCJNGTAE0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is a great place to start. You most importantly need electro static discharge safe, a small tip, and adjustable temperature. This kit checks all those boxes
I believe I have those same clips I’m pretty sure its these, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081DK4G6C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3S2H85A6JPS26T5E0G79?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 They’re really good for holding up my sabers
The case is just this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PEUJUU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
But I did this:
- Replaced the existing hardware
- Added some new corner hardware
- Molded the inside with flower foam and burlap
- Stained the outside
- Woodburned the text
you can find similar cases for even cheaper at craft stores like https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Painting-Surfaces/Wood/Rectangle-Wood-Box/p/28871
Typically boxes for wine bottles are a good size.
Could always build your own as well. I've done that before. But, these are a good shortcut.
No problem. Here’s the links to the exact ones I bought, so you can check the sizes and dimensions, I don’t want to type them wrong or miss part of the size. I bought the wrong size at first from someone listing the size wrong.
118 Buna-N O-Ring, 70A Durometer,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMYRNE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
118 Silicone O-Ring, 70A... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FN0XSQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I use a tube cutter to make or shorten blades. It leaves a decent cut but you'll still want to sand or file down the edge a bit.
So the batteries in which you are referring to are the same batteries that are used in most Vapor Box mods and Vaping devices. They are standard 18650 3.7v. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085NSR8YF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_5CERFbGZTV054
I think any store with a sporting goods section stocks the single packs, or you can grab a multi from Amazon:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JG95BSM/
Thin enough that it reveals all the contours underneath though, which is a plus or a minus, depending on the build. Here, the holes from the missing grips on this MR Vader still peek through:
For anybody who searches and finds this thread later, I bought the ones I linked from Amazon and will cut to size. There's 10 in a pack so I can mess one or two up. ;)
If anybody ever needs an update on how it turned out just reply to one of my posts in here in the future and I'll reply when I see it. If it turns out super great I'll probably make new post to show pics.
you can buy it on Amazon (where else ;-) ) https://www.amazon.com/Zeon-Star-Lightsaber-Bottle-Opener/dp/B00864CHNU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526158405&sr=8-3&keywords=lightsaber+bottle+opener
But there is a ROTJ version as well (without sound): https://www.amazon.com/Bottle-Keychain-Modeled-Skywalkers-Lightsaber/dp/B06XHR1PKG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526158405&sr=8-1&keywords=lightsaber+bottle+opener
So it looks like this is what that guy used, but he said in the comments that it still turns itself off after a few minutes of no activity. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0874CBBN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1hDEFb3R1GQJP?fbclid=IwAR1zLvOmhzj9G7Cn2Z0rLfVqfY5LnjREcKff05chiu2RSQTSUPkgoZ-vuFY
You want something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Gauge-Female-Disconnect-Polarized-Automotive/dp/B07953YMX2
Don't actually get that, because that's for cars, but you want something that plugs together like that.
I’m using this one which comes with a hot air rework station (good for heat shrink)
Hi!
I used these lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JP5375R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cwIhFbMTDXDA8
Since they do have an outlet power source I just cut the light strip itself to double the length I wanted, then folded it in on itself. After that I broke into the control panel and took out the board, soldered the lights to the corresponding prongs for the RGB lights (this way there was no way for them to come unplugged). Then I connected the other side of the control center piece to a regulator and then connected the regulator to a 9volt battery clip.
I really wanted to use this project as a way to better my soldering, and it really wasn't that hard! I took wayyyy too long trying to find lights that were battery operated and would fit the battery pack into the hilt and it was nearly impossible, so I did this instead.
If you have any other questions feel free to message me!
I assume they're like Sharpies, never tried that one before You could give them a try but they may not stick to the aluminum. If you already have them on hand, I don't see the problem with trying it out!
I'd personally use something like this painting pen to fill in the little ridges with some enamel paint. It does a fine job of getting paint into small areas cleanly.
Remove all electronics, sand the saber to give the surface tooth for the paint to hold on to, put protection over the holes so paint doesn't get inside ( I used rolled up toilet paper roll cardboard and rolled up pieces of paper for the screw holes), spray paint the entire saver also protecting the points where it screws together (I like electrical tape for the form fit), spray-painted with Rust-oleum Hammered flat black a light layer over the whole saber in pieces and let dry for balance 3 minutes before I start lightly wiping away. You want to hit only the raised areas so that it stays black in the crevices and you want to be very gentle with your touch so that it's still leaves paint on the saber. You can also use turpentine to push the paint around a bit if you use a thicker layer or paint thinner/acetone. The most important thing to remember is that the saber is going to look wrong for a good portion of the time until, suddenly, it just looks right. After the paint has dried and you have it the way you want it wait about an hour and then hit it with Crystal Clear flat protective coat spray paint. Once that's dried for about 2 hours I hit it again for a second coat of clear coat. Remember to apply those coats at a distance to make sure they go on clear (at least a foot away). I used this for the handle and locked down the ends with Loctite epoxy. The best measuring cut method I've found for spiral leather wraps is the one I mentioned in this post. MTFBWY
Sabertrio has some very nice bags. But if you want something cheaper, look up fishing pole bags on Amazon.
I'm waiting on a Quicksilver to arrive in the mail tomorrow (since Hermes 'accidentally' sent it to the wrong sorting center...) But I will be wrapping the handle with plain black heat shrink which I ordered off Amazon.
I was also considering this and may also give that a go if the black doesn't look as nice.
I'll post on how it ends up working out but I think they would be good alternatives to leatheror sport grip wrapping for example since there will be no seems.
Yep! I haven't gotten to use it yet (because my parts from TCSS haven't arrived yet), but I got this kit from Amazon for $15.99 and it comes with a soldering iron, a solder sucker, and some solder and it has good reviews.
You'd need to 3D print a chassis with a 1" open section for the emitter. For blade retention, I'd recommend you drill a hole at the top of the emitter and add a hole with a small step out to be slightly wider on the inside of the emitter. Then push one of these through the hole from the inside until it's flush with the inside of the emitter section: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K2X76Q5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Use an 8-32 thumbscrew to secure the blade in the emitter.
The dock is the (slightly) better option - and will be generally more useful.
Like this, right?
Having a power supply that can, in principle, deliver more current, is not a bad idea - a decent manufacturer will have made their output short-circuit protected.
I'd have a fuse inline with the cell (moi? paranoid?) and personally would never run a power supply on its redline - so I over-spec PSUs that I buy (the company I'm at builds medical devices - we use Meanwell switched-mode PSUs) and never run them at > 75% load.
If the charging circuit in your sabre is particularly keen, and wants to charge the cell at close to its max current, it might want to draw more than 1A. A multimeter will tell you. Modern reputable switched-mode PSUs should also fail gracefully, shutting down when too hot, or when under too much load.
But I'd simply get a PSU with more current-delivering capability.
TLDR: dock = good choice, but more capability in a PSU helps prevent fires
I won a broken lightsaber at an auction for $5.00.
I think the internals are bad because I have tried two chargers (both 5v, 1a) and the button is supposed to light up even when the battery is out of the saber.
Where can I purchase just the internal components? Any clue?
I'm would also like to buy another light saber that glows rainbow (and other colors) and can be smaked around. Anything like that for around $100-200. I am located in the US.
Thanks.
So I am thinking about to buy a lightsaber but I am not sure what to buy... I heard that neopixels can be broken fast, but rgb are durable. I found this lightsaber: https://www.amazon.de/Papi-Dada-Wiederaufladbares-Soundeffekten-Premium-Schwarz/dp/B0B7R39ZRT/ref=asc_df_B0B7R39ZRT/?tag=googshopde-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=603954450633&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=250168099787140813&hvpone=&h...
Also why is the premium black so expensive? Do you think that this a good starter choice? Should I get a neopixel?
My budget is around 100$ Thanks for reply!
I kind of made up the design as I went along, using convenient materials. I used these for the tubes: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09LFZ3P2G?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Looks good... when I did some aging... the best results I got were from using this product- Solo's Hold does a tutorial on youtube and that's what they use.
I mean there is this..... But again.... It's not good
The sabers have alright smooth swing, not super sensitive, but not terrible. They have 12 different colors and also 4 different sound fonts. The package comes with a connecter to make a double bladed saber. It also comes with multiple screws for the blade, an Allen wrench, an instruction manual, and a tip cover. Link for the saber here: X-TRESABER LIGHTSABER on Amazon
JB weld is an epoxy. You mix two parts together or buy it in stick putty form and mold it. No actual hot welding required. It’s wonderful stuff. Just make sure to not let it get on parts that you don’t want it on. It will be difficult to clean off.
https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8265S-Cold-Weld-Reinforced/dp/B0006O1ICE
This is a fantastic idea. Here’s the link fold that sucker on itself to get the two sides of light, wrap it in shower curtain, packing foam, cellophane wrap from a gift basket(I found that in the party section of dollar tree with the plastic tablecloths and stuff like that) I hope this works and please post it cuz I’m really interested in how that goes
It's hard to say without knowing what kind of budget you're working with. If you can, I would stick with a board used by the lightsaber community (arduino nano isn't really used at large) because you will get better community support and better compatibility with additional community made soundfonts that could be added to the saber later.
If you're purely worried about frying an expensive board, I would get a practice soldering board to practice with before wiring whatever board you are going with. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Elenco-Practical-Soldering-Project-Kit/dp/B0002LUAL6/
It's TXQ, OP put a link underneath the picture. The link is not visible in the full size picture, just in the preview. I'm using old reddit, I'm not sure if that makes a difference.
Honestly anything along the lines of this gets you a detachable blade and good size battery pack. This was the cheapest I could find for you.
Looks like it might one of the amazon brands - those companies love to use that style of hilt. Example. They used to be a lot more common though, it seems a lot of the amazon companies have moved to sabers with more sharp edges
I got my first 2 RGB’s from Amazon they’re decent for a cheap baselit can’t complain
You got to Savi's for the experience, not for the quality of saber. Even the legacy hilts they sell in the store are basically just basic-bitch LED-string tech they've had in officially-licensed sabers ever since the Master Replica days (with the addition of neopixel-like connectors for easy blade removal, so that's nice).
If you still want to no-shit build your own saber and don't mind learning basic soldering and electrical principles, you can get an empty hilt (or craft one), a Proffie board, a chassis and all the other components and go to town. It won't have the Disney park theatrics with 30 other people next to you, but you'll come out with a much better saber. And it's not just some churched up version of this thing https://www.amazon.com/Hasbro-84850-Star-Ultimate-Lightsaber/dp/B0007YDCK4
I've done the whole design-your-own-saber thing already with better tech and wiring my own electrical work (even if it's just the TCSS modular hilt system, which is really just a metal version of Savi's and I did it 10 years ago with a damn Nano Biscotte of all things), so I had no interest in it, but knowing that, if it sounds more your thing, it's worth it.
Galaxy's Edge as a park is def worth visiting though.
Looking for something with a fully retractable blade, Not from a character with a super recognizable hilt and is decently long. Lights and sounds aren’t super important to me however I wouldn’t mind them. I’m looking for something under fifty dollars. I do prefer it to be Disney/Lucasfilm licensed and I don’t mind if it’s marketed as a toy. I’m looking to purchase this item on Amazon.
This is the one I have my eyes on I’m just looking for others before I make the purchase
https://www.amazon.com/Disney-Parks-Training-Academy-Lightsaber/dp/B072J4DNSY
10 seconds of googling airsoft armor and clicking an amazon link:
It's what they want though, they clarified that in a response to me. Earlier in this very thread that you have replied to, actually.
I never said the charger was 5 volts, I sad that 18watt and higher chargers exist and can be plugged into the wall. Yes, they're not using USB-A ports, but I have C to Micro cables around so there's no reason to expect other people won't.
https://www.amazon.com/Apple-USB-C-Power-Adapter-MU7T2LL/dp/B07L6TTC1T
I once asked their customer service they recommended this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017TXGM4I?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_DB9M72H65MJW3VWYWJRW
If they don't need to light up or do sounds could you just get a couple kendo sticks?
Or even something like this?
If the rubber band trick below doesn't work, get something like this.
I use this kit from amazon for my connectors. They're not the best thing out there but they do the job for me and are keyed so there's no way I'm going to plug them in backwards.
OP here. I remember these electronic toy lightsabers, but I always thought these ornage ones were "weird"... There was no orange lightsabers in the movies.
Amazon Germany still have the listing for the Light Saber on their website lol if you want to look:
[https://www.amazon.de/-/en/LSJO/dp/B00007IT3R](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/LSJO/dp/B00007IT3R
And it's listed as "Jedi Geonosis Arena Electronic Orange Lightsaber by Attack of the Clones"
Are there holes at the bottom of the pommel? That’s what I was trying to figure out. Although, you could just put a picture hanger D-ring at the screw on the end of the hilt.
https://www.amazon.com/Ring-Picture-Hangers-Screws-Solutions/dp/B019QX7CY8
These are my favorite D-rings since they’re small and don’t move around much because of the design. Since the screw hole is threaded, all you’d have to do is put the D-ring under the screw and you’re good to go.
Do you just need a plug for the USB cable? If so, I bought these and they seem fine so far, only charged my lightsaber once though (I got the two pack because it was a staff that split into two sabers).
You have to get more than you ultimately want, but white versions of the switches are in this set: Switch assortment
I got this one, it kinda reminds me of a lightsaber since i catch myself swinging it around making lightsaber sounds lol
​
I didn't make this. I bought it. whoever made this used pvc parts because it's got pvc markings on it still.
the top portion is a wrapped pipe with two threaded end fittings.
like this with a pipe in between. https://www.amazon.com/Hydroseal-Fitting-Jetstream-Pieces-Schedule/dp/B08FFT81SZ
Tle case in the link cool. I use an airsoft gun case for my sabers however I have seen a post with a case like this: https://www.amazon.com/Vault-Pelican-Multi-Purpose-Electronics-Instrument/dp/B00745TV18
This might be a longshot, but does anyone have any experience with this item? https://www.amazon.ca/Lorsaberus-Lightsaber-Aluminium-Lightsabers-Changeable/dp/B09DBHV8FJ/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=wirBS&content-id=amzn1.sym.65a883cc-2a99-4757-97c3-17282bb2b972&pf_rd_p=65a883cc-2a99-4757-97c3-17282bb2b972&pf_rd_r=FRS7P0G2ATHE4W5KQ6HK&pd_rd_wg=4vZk1&pd_rd_r=54feff4c-adb2-481d-8114-86972fc9555c&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m
I live in Canada, so it's a bit harder to find some budget sabers that ship to Canada. Amazon is easy to look on, but most of the sabers from there are terribly reviewed, or well revied but with big flaws. Thanks!
I don't think it should stop it charging, but I find it a lot easier to do with the blade removed as the saber can just be left on a desk/table to charge and takes up less space.
Rather than using the charging port, I'd recommend getting an external battery charger like this. It's generally a safer way to do it, since no power will be going to the board and there's no risk of damaging it. Plus, if you have a spare battery, you can just switch it in and keep using the saber!
>around $120 after the May 4th discount. For a first saber I'm really happy with it. I love the look of the emitter with the little cutouts on the side, and the thin sections that make it easy to spin. I've already ordered some extra LGT parts to customize it further.
>
>One thing to note is that it has a USB-C charge port rather than the round port that
I found a similar one on Amazon:https://www.amazon.com/Lightsaber-Sensitive-Infinite-Changing-Dueling-Adjustment/dp/B08Q4C3LF2/ref=sr_1_53?th=1 is this the same with yours?
It can be tricky getting the card out first time, though I find it gets easier after that. A pair of plastic tweezers like this can work wonders. Plastic's definitely better than metal as they're non-conductive and are far less likely to scratch the card.
hi just purchased my first saber https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09JSVGZVD/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_dl_SPDYYBHKMHNVP28SKTA9?psc=1 happy with it for a budget, going to be mainly used as a wall light but also for a bit of fun practicing spinning and the likes.
​
Doesnt give much away in the instructions just that its xenopixel and how to update the firmware ,just doesnt really give any information on where the firmware comes from.
​
is it pretty much the same firmware from everywhere or something specific i need to look out for, also with the fonts id like to get a couple of extra ones or cleaner versions of what are already installed as some sound like they were recorded on a potato .
That’s going to be a HUGE clothespin! What kind of pants are you hanging up to dry over there?
I bought the lightsaber here. The lightsaber starts on blue and if you click the start up button again it changes color. If you shut it down and activate it again it defaults back to blue.
If you want to stick to Amazon, I'd recommend this saber here, I bought one of these as my first saber and it does save your settings, and has more colors and fonts baked into it, yeah it's a bit more than what you got but it makes a world of difference
​
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RB51JMN?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2\_dt\_b\_product\_details
I don't advice you to buy used sabers if you want use it for dueling,if you could double the budget,You could order the LGT SABERS on amazon ,the gold version is on sale now:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RDXLYYD?ref=myi_title_dp ,it's pretty good for heavy dueling,if you order something cheap, it will break easily.
I used Rustoleum Universal Satin Black and Rustoleum Universal Hammered Copper (amazing paint, terrible sprayer, swap out the cap if you can). For the tarnish and patina, I just used a black acrylic and teal acrylic paint (Blick brand). I sealed it all with Rustoleum satin clear coat. I also lightly sanded the tarnished parts with 400 grit sandpaper.
I didn't actually do any real oxidization (just paint effects), but I did strongly consider using this product but ultimately decided against it for better control with the teal paint.
Thank you so much! As far as the weathering/painting, everything I know I learned from Adam Savage's Tested Youtube channel.
Blade maker here, if your planning on cutting it down I'd suggest getting a pipe cutter, I can tell you from experience its a million times easier than trying to cut a straight line with another tool. Its about 20 buccs and gives you a perfect cut on the blade everytime and all you have to do it spin it. Once you cut off the piece, sand the inside down then glue in the blade tip. (I like using epoxy because its strong and doesn't become brittle.)
Ill recommend this one that I use but you might be able to find a cheaper one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P307PO/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_DTKMKTNG21JH0DHAZSDZ
Apply the coupon on this page and buy two of these. They're basic LGT sabers with the RGBX 9-font soundboard so it's not bad for just practicing with. Take the pommel off of one and they can screw together to make a staff.
This is LGT's official Amazon store and they ran this coupon deal this week. Expires today I think, so act quick if you want it.
https://www.amazon.com/Lightsaber-Infinite-Changing-Sensitive-Adjustment/dp/B08RDWFPJ3/
FX Heavy Dueling Light Saber Infinite Color Changing Light Sword 9 Sound Fonts Volume Adjustable Metal Hilt Saber Toy Gift https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RDWQZFB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_KCJZKPRHCNC4NDK0NX82?psc=1
Order it now, the discount ends tomorrow. It’s an LGT.
Remember to apply the $69 dollar off coupon before you put it in your cart.
There is a 3 day lightsaber sale on Amazon. Just apply the $69 off before you drop in your cart https://www.amazon.com/Lightsaber-Infinite-Changing-Sensitive-Adjustment/dp/B08RDWFPJ3/ref=sr_1_261?crid=3EIDRK4ONBOHQ&keywords=light%2Bsaber&qid=1644225174&sprefix=light%2Bsaber%2Caps%2C555&sr=8-261&th=1
Oh yes they are surprisingly loud, they have several sound fonts and different flicker effects from this chassis system with an RGB setup letting you cycle through the colour spectrum (I hope the link works.)
Yeah here's the Amazon link: TECKWRAP 11.5"x 60" Chrome Mirror Gold Vinyl Wrap Self Adhesive Car Sticker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FM53DTW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_27M3T5GMET51J8F86TRR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
There's this set at amazon for 65 bucks, or 80 if you don't get to it in time for the deal. I have a similar set, and they're alright. They don't have smooth swing, and you'll have to change the blade color every time you turn it on, if you want something other than whatever the first color is. but for practicing twirling it might be what you're looking for.
I just bought my first pair from Crimson Dawn. I got the Banshee.
If you wanna go cheaper. There’s some decent reviews for Adawlert on Amazon. Smooth Swing Light Saber RGB 12 Colors Changeable Dueling Lightsabers, Metal Hilt Force FX Light Saber Swords with 4 Modes Sound for Adults Teens, Support Real Heavy Dueling (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GCVR1H7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_ZTGHXJTB2AJ47GFT114N?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I got this dual saber/2 sabers with a connector set off of amazon for fairly cheap, but i'm not a huge fan of how many twists it takes to combine/separate them. Does anyone know of where I could get a connector that works quicker, or just some part from the hardware store that would give the same results?