What are
/r/logitech's
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From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/logitech:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/logitech:
Logitech Options
Key Mapper
Microsoft PowerToys
MOS
Snipboard
Barrier
Timely
ImgPile
The most popular VPNs mentioned in /r/logitech:
The most popular reviews in /r/logitech:
I have the Vibe 100, it works fine out of the box. If your PC needs a bluetooth adapter, I recommend the TP-Link USB Bluetooth Adapter for PC, 5.0 Bluetooth Dongle Receiver (UB500)
Lol too difficult for manufacturere asking $200 or $300 for a mouse but aparently not a problem for a $25 mouse. The 2.5gz interferenace issue is also resolved by cheap adaptors. Come on Logitec you can do better.
The MX mini for business and the MX mini are two totally different keyboards lol.
The MX mini is a much better keyboard than the MX for business.
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So I found an amazing deal on amazon with big discount for a Marshall portable speaker. It is waterproof It has 20 hour of playtime Bluetooth 5.0 and connects over 30ft away Bass boost Usb-C scharging
Can anyone take a look and help me to make a decission?
On the mx keys, to switch from device to device, you just need to press Fn+easy switch key 1 2 3. If you just press easy switch key 1 2 3, it's recognized by windows as F13 F14 F15.
At least that's the case with the Mx Keys for Mac (I don't know the mx keys for windows version)
Would this battery be a good replacement? Or are there official sources where I can get a battery replacement from?
The mx anywhere s2 looks like the closest thing I can find to the m705 with Bluetooth:
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Anywhere-Wireless-Mobile-Mouse/dp/B08P2JFPQC/
My gf was looking for something similar to my m705 to pair along side her mx keys keyboard for her MacBook and iPad.
i want one but it's quite expensive in my region (PH) at around the $38 which matches the US SRP. now i say this because the older colors go as low as $20 in my local currency from resellers.
that sounds a lot like my use case with two monitor usb hubs connected to my 4-port usb switch.
Mind telling me the exact model of your switch and monitors?
Here's one example:
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Illuminated-Laser-Etched-Soft-Touch-Rest-Full-Size/dp/B07MPZRTFL
$339
Search Amazon for "Logitech K740" and others will pop-up.
You can pull straight out key cap by fingers. But it might be useful to have "key cap remover tool" like following. Like this took helps to pull out straight.
About the first thing, are you sure?
In https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Ergonomic-Keyboard-Business/dp/B09DKMB981 it says that it's only available for "business account" and in their website you have to contact sales https://www.logitech.com/en-us/products/keyboards/ergo-k860-for-business.920-010175.html
I'm focusing on them because those are products I use. I don't understand why the k860 with Logi Bolt would be limited to businesses when the only difference is the connector.
Are you sure my keyboard+mouse combo K400r has any light on it? Because I don't see any!
For further reference, this is a an example photo of my device:
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Touchpad-Transceiver/dp/B008QS7TRK
I know this is a dead post but it came up when I was searching for an answer to the same question.
As a little challenge I was able to hack together an adapter using a Raspberry Pi 3B+ I had lying around and a cheap USB audio capture card.
It's not perfect yet (I still need to run a command on the pi to get it working) but the steps I have are * Flash a SD card with Raspberry Pi OS with Raspberry Pi Desktop (the release I had is 2022-04-04) * Do all the setup for the pi * Connect the USB capture card to the pi * Connect the USB capture card to the headphone jack of your TV * Connect the USB headphone transmitter to the pi Then open a terminal on the pi * Get the name of the "source" associated with the capture card by running the command "pacmd list-sources". For me it was "alsa_input.usb-Generic_USB_Microphone_IM10000001-00.analog-stereo" * Get the name of the "sink" associated with the output of your G733 headphones with the command "pacmd list-sinks". For me it was "alsa_output.usb-Logitech_G733_Gaming_Headset-00.analog-stereo" * Run the command "pacmd load-module module-loopback source=[source_name] sink=[sink_name]" - replace [source_name] and [sink_name] with the names from the previous steps
At this point, your raspberry pi should start piping audio captured from your TV to your G733 headphones!
The audio will be kinda crappy and I haven't yet created a tool to automatically set up the redirect when the pi is powered on or when the G733 transmitter is connected (I assume you want to be able to move it between the PC and TV). Still, it was a fun little challenge for me to prove the concept.
Credit to this solution on stack overflow for providing the general solution I followed.
The bolt receiver is connected to a hub, but computers don't come with USBa ports these days, so that's my only option. It's a MOKiN hub: https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Adapter-MacBook-Power-Pass-Through/dp/B096KHCSRK?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1
Perhaps the hub is the issue?
I found this adapter which would allow me to keep the plug intact (though the 10' of cable is more than I need, I need more like 10" lol).
I assume the power supply needs to be 5V--anyone know what the current needs are? What are the specs on the adapter that comes with it?
As an example, essentially the kind of product I'm looking for is this.
I realize I could just buy this (and maybe I will), but I have all logitech accessories/peripherals and like to stay in the ecosystem if possible. Plus the Logi I'm sure has more powerful speakers and more features than this.
I managed to get one that worked. There are also some reviews that mentioned it worked for the Z906 which is what persuaded me to purchase it:
I managed to get a straight through extension that worked. There are also some reviews related to using it on the Z906 which is what persuaded me to purchase it:
I use this mouse and it connects via Logitechs unified receiver. You'll need two receivers if you'd like to connect to 2 computers without using Bluetooth. The Logitech options software lets you program the buttons too.
I use K780 and really like it.
If you create or have an Amazon business account, you can order the MX Master 3 for Business version. That comes with the Bolt receiver and the MX Keys Mini will connect with that as it is compatible with Bolt. Then you have two nice MX devices with the convenience of only one receiver as well as not having to deal with the flakiness of Bluetooth.
For future travelers, I found this Mokose mount for $10 on Amazon.
This mount has ~7mm of overhang (compared to the original mounts 12mm) and worked perfect for my needs (on an HP x34 monitor).
Just wanted to comment that what I thought was the mouse, was actually the monitor. Turns out this dock I bought on Amazon has an HDMI port that is laggy af. I moved the HDMI cable to another port and the mouse is fine using Bluetooth and Unifying Reciever.
So I can't easily use bolt receiver on one device, and bluetooth on another? Just to be clear, I have my work computer with bluetooth connection, and my personal computer with bolt receiver. When I finish my work, I turn off my work computer, and turn on personal one, and I hope that mouse can with just one button press can be connected to other device. So this is not possible on M650? Because shops desctiption says that there is multi-device support https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Signature-M650-Wireless-Mouse/dp/B09KX9P829
This is the board. Rii K18 Plus Wireless 3-LED Color Backlit Multimedia Keyboard with Multi-Touch Big Size Trackpad,Rechargable Keyboard for Android TV Box,PC,Smart TV,Xbox,Raspberry Pi, HTPC IPTV,Windows, MacOS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077VYRMC1/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_KVVJ9M56S56CZ3961Z6P
Just search for MX Master 3 silent switches. You’ll find them on eBay, but they’ll cost more. Amazon or Aliexpress will be your cheapest.
From start to finish it was about 30 minutes for the MX Master 2s. If you have some electronics you no longer use lying around, I’d suggest you practice your soldering on that. I took a toy that my kid no longer used and practiced on it’s chip board. Once I was semi-confident with the soldering iron I went to work on the mouse.
Even better, if you have a spare mouse lying around, try removing it’s switch and then soldering it back. Then check that it still works properly. That will give you the confidence needed.
Watch a few different videos too to get an idea of what you’re up against and pick up some tricks. I saw in one video that they used a suction for removing the solder from some of the holes in the chip board where the switch was attached. I used a solder wick instead. Don’t know which is better, but everything worked fine with the wick.
If I bought a brand new Master 3, I would still silence it.
Unfortunately no. What I did was to buy a USB 3.0 hub that allows me to power-cycle the port by pressing a button so I don't need to unplug the camera all the time from the back of my machine.
It's not a great solution but I can live with it for now.
That's the hub I got. It works well. https://www.amazon.de/dp/B082SQT12J/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_859V0YAPE8YGX953TD63?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Ok, mine have the vertical return key like this one you posted: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B076D6KY39/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_5Z2A8TCHTWZHWS8HKK14
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Layout is the same as the UK Apple keyboard.
I'm using Windows 10 with a new MX Master 3 and a ThinkPad laptop and I'm having the same problem.
I think the problem is that the Logitech software doesn't recognize the Fn key because the Fn key is usually not recognized by the operating system, which is also why you can't remap it:
https://stackoverflow.com/questions/24423724/finding-the-scan-code-of-fn-key/24503230#24503230
https://github.com/microsoft/PowerToys/issues/3219
So is Duolink supposed to work with all keyboards with Fn keys, or only Logitech keyboards which maybe have a specially designed/programmed Fn key?
In my case it was below 5GB/s.
I was connecting the camera to the computer, Mac mini, via an USB 3 hub (there is some distance between the actual computer and peripherals in my case).
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I ended up wiring the camera directly to the back of the Mac using a thunderbolt cable (any USB 3,1 certified cable would do) as an extension using a female to female adaptor. Surprisingly the cheap adaptors worked:
I purchased the K380 "for Mac" and the page up / page down feature worked out of the box. Not sure if that's a different model? Here's the Amazon link for it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0876MVKQC/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o00\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Well, that is with the Logitech software. But on the OS side it is certainly possible to remap keys. For Windows Microsoft is including a Keyboard Remapper in Powertoys https://github.com/microsoft/PowerToys/releases/
I got the Logitech G 815 tactile version that seems to be the most sillent one.
It does have rgb keys that works with logi Ghub for configuration. You can turn the rgb off if you dont like it or just have em all white.
The keys are very flat compared to the one you had. But i can instant feel the difference in games on how you need to react fast and these keys just help you win :D
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There is also a wireless version of it.
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This is what i have
I know I'm a bit late with my reply, but I did exactly this. Zip tie the camera to the back of my monitor and set the speaker in the middle of the desk with a mini USB extension cord. Works great!
if you carefully map out which internal wires go to which pins, you should be able to get a new DB9 connector end. i would think they're color coded. you'll have to cut the end off regardless, and use a multimeter to check continuity to each pin from the color of the wire unless you're able to tell visually.
something like this ought to be easy:
https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Adapter-Terminal-Signal-Module/dp/B071DS5GTW/
this "breakout" style connector costs a bit more, but you wouldn't need to solder anything. just strip back the wire a bit, insert it into the correct slot number for the pin, and tighten the screw down onto it. if you took your time you could probably get it pretty tidy DIY.
otherwise, a local electronics repair shop should be able to do it, or a computer repair shop maybe (more likely if they work on laptops). if you don't have one, maybe something like an audio shop (like car audio) or a cell phone repair shop might be willing to do it. not a hard job. just say you have a broken pin on a male DB-9 connector, can they replace it.
I just bought G600 hoping that Piper would suffice.Unfortunately it has only partial support for macros(no delays between presses) and I couldnt make media keys(play/pause, next, prev) work.
Looks like i am going back to https://github.com/sezanzeb/key-mapper which i used with Razer mouse
Hi u/gianmaranon,
Thank you for reaching out to us. Sorry to hear about your experience with Logitech Flow. Logitech Flow uses the local network to link computers and allow them to share a mouse and, if available, a keyboard. For computers behind routers or firewalls, Logitech Flow uses a Logitech cloud service to assist with peer discovery and requires an internet connection. For more information please refer to Logitech Flow’s support page. https://support.logi.com/hc/articles/360023188134#troubleshooting
Same issue here for me on my M1 MBP. Been chatting with a Logitech supporter and she sent me this link (https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/options/page/flow-multi-device-control) which is completely helpless.
I'm not sure if this is your issue, but I have an original MX Master and felt that the ratchet scrolling was horrible on OSX. I found a suggestion for a little app called Mos that fixed it up! Just don't forget to disable Smooth Scrolling in Logi Options.
Yes.
More information? Not really; it's pretty straightforward. The unifying receiver is pretty great and works with quite a few pieces of hardware.
If you want to test it out, get the MX Keys (my fav between the two) and connect with the Logitech Options.
If you want to try it out without dropping $100, check out the M525 or the M510 and connect it with the Logitech Unifying Software - same concept for around $20.
tbh, I'm considering returning the MX Master 3 in favor of the M525. Might be personal preference, but I'm not seeing myself use the MXM3 as heavily as I thought, but the MX Keys is a solid choice for a wireless keyboard. I paired it with my phone for laughs, and it jumps back and forth between the two fairly quickly with the touch of a button.
However. If your goal is to effectively use your setup as a single desktop with 2 machines, consider the free/open source solution - Barrier (https://github.com/debauchee/barrier). Barrier works like a dream between my Win 10/Debian desktop and Debian laptop.
I suggest the following, I was in the same boat as you -
These sound even better than the original tiny satellites in my opinion. It will work fine. You'll need some speaker wire and This speaker wire to rca converter. This is a cheap option to replacing your set. The Z2300 set was a phenomenal set for the cost and you'll be hard pressed to replace it without spending upwards of $500 if not into the $1000 range to get similar sound.
I cannot emphasize how fucking phenomenal the Z2300 set is. This being said with this configuration - don't turn the volume on the control pod past what you need it to be. The more it is up, the more power is supplied to the Polk speakers which led me to eventually weakening and subsequently blowing out the right channel amplifier built inside the subwoofer (This is just my hypothesis anyway).
I did both. I highly recommend the “Soarking Charging Dock” on Amazon. It’s much easier to put the G502 on the dock and it looks great too. The magnetic cables are great for all your other devices. I bought NetDot and Digital Ant Gen10 (pill-shaped) for the thinness, but Gen12 is round and probably easier to connect. To use them with the 502 you need an adapter. I used this one.
What mic do you have if you don't mind me asking..? I have a Rode PodMic which is just over 2lbs. You might need a beefier mic sadly because of the internal springs.
My little bro had the same problem when he was trying to use the Blue Compass to desk mount a camera. It just didn't weigh enough so the arm rose slowly throughout the day.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07W6JJSV1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&psc=1 £70.24 best price so far.
Following up here - I recommend trying the USB extension cable. Plugged the unifying receiver into this crappy extender and all the dropped connection / lagging issues on my MacBook Pro seem to be resolved
How is it going, what do you think of the K860? I have been eyeing the same since I am switching to IT field with possibility of work from home and thinking getting ergo keyboard since last few days at work I have gotten some strain on my wrists.
Side note: month ago I got the logitech MX vertical mouse and I am loving it, first 30min it felt weird but that was just me tensing up my hand, just let it relax and rest you side of hand on the table. https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Vertical-Wireless-Mouse-Rechargeable/dp/B07FNJB8TT
I know but am I able to replace the shift knob (the ball you hold) with an aftermarket knob meant for a car Something like this: DC Sports SKT1000 Shift Knob https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BD8H5Z0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_7NCM1864ENF1PNSR2CCC
Thanks for helping me troubleshoot this. I tried a couple of your suggestions to narrow down the issue.
- I'm using an Intel Mac, so the M1 chip isn't an issue in this case.
- I tested the mouse while using NordVPN - no issue there.
- I installed Logi Options on my Windows 10 bootcamp partition, again, no issues there when logging into my work's VPN.
So that seems to narrow it down to specifically Mac OS and this very specific VPN client, which is weird.
When I connect to VPN, there's a long list of preferred gateways, but as far as I can tell, in terms of connecting to my company's network, whichever one you choose will work fine. However when I chose a different gateway than the default one, I no longer have problems with Logi Options. Seems like a crazy specific error. I guess if the issue is solved (assuming it doesn't crop up again somehow), I'm all good, but do you have any idea why/how a specific VPN gateway would prevent the software from recognizing my mouse? Just seems so odd....
It’s definitely possible that your company is blocking ports and routes/third party connections that are being received by the mouse. I would test VPN either thru a personal app like Tunnel bear, NordVPN, PIA, etc. or a VPN tunnel off your local router or firewall. After/before that reach out to your works Security team.
At the same time saying the scroll doesn’t work sounds like a driver incompatible on Big Sur.
Newhouse Hardware CHM1 Door Bell Chime, White https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B019BW9TX6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2GHNDN2G9GKF42PBGT7K
You’ll need a 16v 10 or 15 VA Transformer to power that but you can use the same wires that were powering the airphone. It’s just AC instead of DC.
Gaming mouse that I own which is really good, great price for what you’re getting : https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G502-Performance-Gaming-Mouse/dp/B07GBZ4Q68/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=logitech+mouse&qid=1621156511&sprefix=logitech+mou&sr=8-4
A normal work mouse that I own is really good is the M185 https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-M185-Wireless-Mouse-Blue/dp/B0118K7K4O/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=logitech+mouse+m185&qid=1621156630&sr=8-4
Logitech G502 Lightspeed Wireless Gaming Mouse with Hero 25K Sensor, PowerPlay Compatible, Tunable Weights and Lightsync RGB - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L4BM851/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ETW9Y1XDGYMCGYBY7C2J
Logitech G Pro Wireless Gaming Mouse with Esports Grade Performance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GCKQD77/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DPZDAM4D8HB4WYPX2CJK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/gp/product/B08LVCQLSH?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image they have them in stock but you'll need to make a japanese amazon account and not sure if they ship to UK as fast as they do USA. $172 shipped USD
No, but I have some ideas. I have a microsoft sidewinder x4 keyboard that has served me well for nearly a decade now - replaced my on Logitech G15 after it failed (ha).
Years ago there was a Microsoft Sidewinder Mouse that I tried out at microcenter, and I still vividly recall how much I liked it. Might see if I can source one in good condition and try it out. If it's anything as reliable as my keyboard, it's a win. Otherwise, I'm gonna have to get to a computer shop and try some out - i'm prefer a large mouse that I can drape my hand over, and apparently i have big hands. Most mice feel too small for me - i hate the claw grip.
The one thing I'm going to miss is the hyperscroll function - not sure if any other brands have a similar feature or not.