What are
/r/maker's
favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/maker:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/maker:
HackADay
Hackster
Autodesk Tinkercad
Thingiverse
Product Hunt
Turtl
FreeCAD
Unsplash
Vectr
SOLIDWORKS
Pepakura Designer
Aliexpress
Kickstarter
TinyURL
Onshape
The most popular reviews in /r/maker:
...Adam. AdamAdamAdam. I have just had a wonderful idea.
Picture this: As of the last patch, Tilt Brush files can be exported. How about a Tested.com series where you and Norm and Jeremy design something cool in Tilt Brush in Vive, export it to a file that Metasequoia can read, to create a Pepakura Designer template that you guys then print out and fold in the shop.
Awesome, right?
Sure they do, but the value of land in the SF Bay Area is much higher than the value of 'junk', so things have evolved. "The Dump" is no longer a giant pile of trash/treasure - it's a waste transfer station that is massively more efficient. Auto junkyards gave way to auto dismantlers with miles of carefully cataloged parts that are searchable on the Internet. Also, now its easy for anyone to find out how much someone else paid for something, and it's still relatively easy to find one of the few people willing to pay top dollar for whatever you're trying to sell if you have time to list something on ebay or Amazon.
​
Here's what I'd try if you're looking for "good junk"
- search your local craigslist 'free stuff' section
- visit your local thrift stores and tell them what you're looking for
- talk to your local e-waste recycler
- stop by garage sales in the Afternoon with an empty truck
- look at the for sale section of nextdoor.com or facebook and make some offers
I bought the exact one you linked to in order to dissect. Inside is a metal wire about 1/8 in. / 6mm thick and the wire body is square (i.e. with four flat sides and 90 degree angles as opposed to round like most wire). It was surprising to me that "wire" this thick would bend so easily.
I should note that I don't know if this particular wire was indicative of all coated wire used in goosenecks. Also, the gooseneck in the Amazon link sucked compared to the strength AND flexibility of the one in my original picture, which also came from AMZ - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNPXUPS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks! CNC's are so affordable these days its not a hard sell for most people. This is the CNC I use https://tinyurl.com/yaw3blv7. After this video, I got rid of my DIY forge... It's a dangerous thing and I felt I had a good track record so I should retire it. I'm going to make a giant Bunsen burner with the leftover parts now!
Just dug this up. lay it under the floor mat. It's not very durable, but should work for the night.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Use-a-DIY-Pressure-Plate-Switch-to-Automate-Your-H/
I remember making something similar at a summer camp 20 years ago.
http://hackaday.com/2013/10/02/diy-pressure-plate-switch-for-your-haunted-house/
I like hackaday links better, the projects are usually better documented and more things taken into consideration.
Hackaday.io and Hackster.io might be a good place to start. You can browse by project type or hardware used, and then follow users to see other projects they've worked on.
I think you're doing yourself in with such specific requirements. If you consider using a low voltage switch in combination with a relay or similar, you open up a much wider variety of shapes & sizes for cheap. Considering it's a cabinet, I doubt you'll have trouble hiding the extra component. Then you can pretty much pick up any switch you like from Amazon, Adafruit, Sparkfun, etc.
If you want to avoid relays, use a double-pole single-throw switch.
>A Double Pole Single Throw (DPST) switch is a switch that has 2 inputs and 2 outputs; each input has 1 corresponding output. Each of the terminals of a double pole single switch can either be in the on position (closed) or in the off position (open).
I have no idea what illegal activities you're referring to, and you don't either. I haven't done anything illegal, you just don't know how to cover your tracks. I did send you a message with an encoded name in it, but nobody but you could know that. That was so you'd know I wasn't kidding when I said that I'd found you. (It took all of 20 minutes -- you are not a criminal mastermind, I'll give you that.) I'm going to publish your name online because that would be a dick thing to do, and I would sacrifice my reddit account in the process. I do hope you take the hint, and realize that there are people online who are far more capable than I am, and far less restrained. If you cheat people online, you will be found, and it won't be a good situation.
I do apologize for being insulting. That was rude and unkind of me. I was angry, as I'm pretty fed up with scam artists.
I'm quite irritated at people who do what you're done. I find your escalating claims to be ridiculous. (How on earth would a vendor of five years steal your "professional photo" from your two day-old web site?) I'm asking you to /u/MrWednesday29's money, but whether or not you decide to do so is entirely up to you.
If you're doing what you're doing because you're in difficult financial straits, then I sympathize. Even now, if you'd only come clean, I'd be motivated to help. I'm sorry for your situation and I hope things get better for you. Just remember that it isn't fair to improve your own situation by making things worse for others.
Goodbye and good luck.
Nite ize makes a variety of products, for example https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KSKY0KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_TCRHDJ7MWV0704H72FHG
If webbing is ok instead of rope then there are many buckets, cam, or ratchets. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0774KKHWF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_0C5TMQ242E8N9GYQ4BN5
There are tons of rigging, sailing, and climbing products but you'd need to describe your use case in more detail.
There are also knots like a clove hitch that can be used with a carabineer, tensioned, and adjusted very easily.
Just found this one on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0732M27QL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_Z7Z9G2JNC9P0CYD8794K?psc=1
Didn't know this existed but I like this idea so far. Maybe I will make it myself after all. Only thing I can see being a complication is where to hide the giant box.
Looks like the Ikea light is using some sort of infrared proximity sensor. You can see what looks like two LED's in one of the photo's. When the drawer opens, the sensor can't see the IR reflection anymore, and the light knows to come on. Hold a piece of paper in front of these, and the light should go off.
You can get these sensors for less than $2 each. Here's some from Amazon.
You'd have to use these in conjunction with a relay, and possibly a microcontroller. Do you know how relay's work?
I think i found one that SHOULD work. the problem with the one pictured is its just to weak. This will be going onto an off road vehicle and while it wont hold a ton of weight it still needs to be much sturdier than what is pictured.
Here is what i found that should do the job im looking for.
you can use that tacky putty teachers use to stick things on walls. Amazon Link to an example
I think I saw this idea on /r/3dprinting. It came out pretty awesome. 3d printed deathstar atop a levitron. I used black PLA filament with my Ultimaker 2, then I just painted a white base coat and covered with a coat of grey.
Credit to Hendo420 for his dope Death Star model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1196020
The Levitron was purchased from Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HA73QRA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'd suggest some JB Plastic weld Putty.
It's incredibly easy to work with and mold, which is what youll need. After mixing it'll be like playdough and you can shape it. After it hardens you can drill a pilot hole and thread the fastener into it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003S2E4UE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_h3pGFbJ44HTRR
It's readily available at most hardware stores
Good luck!
I have one similar to your picture and the base doesn't have enough weight to keep from tipping over, and the magnifier on mine is junk. When I finally get fed up with it I'll order something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Magnetic-Waterproof-Electronics-NEWACALOX/dp/B09WDK3P8P/
That's just a random one I found on Amazon for reference, not endorsing that exact one
Thé pot has a switch and a pot in 1 unit, hence 5 wires. You can replace it with a 100k pot (3 of the wires) and a separate switch ( the other 2 wires). Then you can put the on off switch somewhere convenient and build a simple pedal that has the pot shaft turned by the pedal mechanism - a guitar volume pedal similar to this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B077PVVC38?pd_rd_i=B077PVVC38&pf_rd_p=95577907-81d6-4161-9b53-adeca649e465&pf_rd_r=7E656M4EJ3HTPD92TD7C&pd_rd_wg=kic6b&pd_rd_w=gcz74&pd_rd_r=91d39aa2-9304-4bc3-a731-ed91cfa2c6b0 should be hackable without much effort.
They already make exactly what you want:
https://www.amazon.com/Lenink-Replacement-Operated-Electronic-Decorations/dp/B0956BP2PL
There's also a 3d model on thingiverse to 3d print your own battery inserts, if you want to DIY it.
Tbh I'd just crank it down till the plastic slightly deformed, it would hold just fine, but if you want it to look nice you could use a "beveled washer"
https://www.amazon.com/Feeney-CR-3799-PKG-Beveled-Washer-Small/dp/B00FQ586NM/ref=mp_s_a_1_9
Alternatively you could drill into the chair base perpendicular to the top of the base arms, if you wanted to make the anchor in the base on a similar angle with a wood wedge underneath.
JB Weld 2 part epoxy might work. It is a thick paste when first mixed so it can be pushed into cracks or spread smooth over a surface to fill cracks and voids. and once it dries it can be sanded smooth and painted over.
You can also get the quick setting version.
I have used Epoxy Resin to stabilize sand that I used as a weight.
I had bought one of these bases for a propane torch and it is hallow, so to lower the center of gravity so it would be less likely to tip over, I filled it with sand, and then poured 2 part epoxy over it to make it a solid block.
How about something like this?
Wow, thanks! I'm pretty sure I can share an Amazon link without violating any rules if it's not shameless self-promotion, so mods apologies in advance if I misread that: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089ND7PTH?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I grabbed three of them for 23 box a couple months ago. I was pleasantly surprised that they all worked. Believe me, I can go on, and on, and on, and wax poetic to no end about Voltamatic 2000, just let me know any specific information you want.
As much as I like the Airtag solution (and there's still a fair chance that will end up being the best solution) I really want to play around with the Lorawan/helium option and will probably buy this pair of boards off amazon to play around with. I'll probably think up something fun to do with them regardless of this project but since they have both Lora & Wifi I'm thinking I could run both options for tracking purposes (assuming I sort out the coding- I'm still novice level). I'd welcome any input on this development board choice and/or alternatives. Also, I have this question:
'Helium' from what I understand is a network using the same radio frequency of the thingsnetwork but is subscription based in order to facilitate the financial incentive for coverage gateways. To me, that suggests that any device such as that linked above with a "Lorawan" spec will run on either Helium's network or thethingsnetwork or whatever else is using the same radio frequency. Is that correct?
You could try inflatable shims
I enjoyed The MakerSpace Workbench when I was considering setting up my own space. My local library had it, you might check your college's library.
I'd just recommend you buy your pipes on amazon. The ones at your home depot or wherever are way more expensive than I'd have thought. That's what I used for this one, but really all I needed was decorative ones like these
They are made specifically for diy furniture and such. Also, I would say to get yourself a litlle tube of PL glue to put on the threads to freeze everything together. Just be careful because once that shit gets on your hands, you have to shed it off and you will look dirty for at least 3 days.
The Arduino send the command to a MOSFET that actuates on a solenoid.
This is the solenoid I'm using: https://www.amazon.nl/gp/product/B07MM8P3YR/
When the solenoid retracts it no longer holds a wire that is holding the box.
This isn't mirrored, but I think this is the kind of fan you're looking for. It takes air in the front, and blows it out the side (as opposed to the back).
If that's the case, you don't need it "Mirrored." Just get two of those fans, and turn one upside down. Any reason that won't work?
You want a li-ion boost converter + charging board like this https://www.amazon.com/AITRIP-Lithium-Battery-Charger-Adjustable/dp/B08GWTBD3T
Wire your battery up to the bat+ and bat- pads. Use a multimeter to read the output voltage, and turn the dial until the output voltage is what you desire (probably 5v, unless you plan on powering something external that needs more than 5v, in which case you can use the pin that has a voltage regulator on it).
After your voltage is set, you can hook up the arduino to the +/- out pins. Charging is dome through the micro USB port, or you can solder your own connector next to it if you dont want micro usb
This is such a cool concept. I LOVE this idea.
As for your light streak, I would think you’ll have a much easier time producing smoke, rather than steam. Obviously, that has significant drawbacks. But it would probably make for a better picture/video of you riding it, even though you’d never be able to do it in a populated area.
I’d experiment with wood pellets and a NG/propane fire source, contained in a metal unit mounted off the back of the bike. Maybe a tube, with an inner chimney, and smoke holes drilled up & down one side?
[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08972H8DW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share](I have one of these and it’s cool as hell. Not the color you need though. Unfortunately)
Got it, and for the battery, would something like this work for powering the linear actuator? https://www.amazon.com/27A-12V-Alkaline-Battery-5-Pack/dp/B071R2JXFY/ref=sr\_1\_1?crid=2HRO39SZ23CT2&keywords=GP+Battery+For+Multi+12+Volt+-+27a&qid=1658736096&sprefix=gp+battery+for+multi+12+volt+-+27a%2Caps%2C261&sr=8-1
The absolute easiest way would be to find cheap solar powered pathway lights and rip them apart, extending wires as needed for items like the solar panel. It will contain everything you need such as the led, solar panel, battery, night sensor, and circuitry. If you want red, you'd need to get a red lens or something
This for example, but I can't say 100% it will work https://www.amazon.com/Solar-Lights-Outdoor-12Pack-Stainless/dp/B082MHLDQJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?crid=5E9FRZHNDOEU&keywords=solar+powered+yard+lights&qid=1658542258&sprefix=Solar+powered+yard+%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-6
This device is less expensive, less complicated and way safer than anything. You're going to be able to build yourself. I would highly recommend it over something that is very likely to kill you and people you love. https://www.amazon.com/Cuisinart-CPK-17-PerfecTemp-1-7-Liter-Stainless/dp/B003KYSLNQ
>present it in a way where I share my changes over the past year and make projections of where I want to go. If I offer paid classes, it could contribute to our revenue and they might see that as a major bonus.
100% this would help. I would also add some sort of "badge" system for community members that take safety protocol trainings. (This doesn't have to be an actual badge system but an easy way to say, "Oh yeah X can use that saw, she has been trained on it.) When you do your projections it's best to show big long term goals (this is how top-level management looks at things) then show your short term projections (this is a middle management viewpoint) as you said. Big note: If you add projections on revenue you HAVE TO meet or exceed them or it may reflect negatively on you.
Another part that is already in your control: You can educate museum goers on how your activities are STEM-related. The Exploratorium in San Francisco does a great job of this and has a lot of resources that you could use. People tend to say things are "Arts & Crafts" when they don't actually understand the type of learning that is going on. Putting this into context for them will help them to change the words they use and learn how making & tinkering are educational in nature. This is something I had to do with the teachers I've worked with who looked at making as a "fun" but not educational thing to do. There's a whole chapter in Invent to Learn that puts "fun" into context for learning.
So, i have a staff like this for Halloween.
When I slam it on the ground it triggers a sound and light effect via esp32 (makes a rest call to a raspberry pi).
I don't use anything special. It lasts the night and I replace it every year just to be sure.
This is the switch I use, I spray paint them black to match my staff.
uxcell a11123000ux0410 Normal Open Momentary Push Button Switch, 3 Piece, AC 125V, 3 Amp SPST, Red https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01C8CS7EI/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_X1C79626KDADKSDKCKP6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You can buy RGB LED strips that come with a USB power controller. They're easily found on Amazon and usually come with remote controls for changing the colours. I'm sure there are ones that exist for USB-C as well (although you coul alwas buy an adapter)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/WOWLED-Strips-Accessory-Controller-Powered/dp/B07VNVPHHK
Could you hook up something like this? Mityvac MV8510 Silverline Elite Hand Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004IQM460/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_YK815RFWH9ZPGNHZEYMC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It does pressure and vacuum.
These vise-mounted bending brakes work pretty well for simple bends in narrow flat bar like what you're looking to do: KAKA BDS-4, 4 Inches Sheet Metal Vice Brake Die Set, Magnetic Vise Mount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015U6KCH4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_5478TVCS4HBBDYAGSERE
I have often thought about the exact same thing.
That would finally warrant getting RFID chip implanted so that speakers get activated when you enter a room ; D
Anyway, a Raspberry won't be ideal nor necessary. Why? Because Raspberry's don't come with a good DAC. They might have a 3.5mm jack but the sound that's put out is bad. Not suitable for music.
How about an ESP8266 with a DAC? The ESP8266 has wifi and will be able to decode MP3. Connect a DAC to it and you got a high quality output.
You could also get audio output straight with the ESP8266 and PWM, and it sounds like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3euFJSkDcFI
I imagine a rapsberry sounds like that, too.
Here's an article http://hackaday.com/2015/06/06/esp8266-as-a-networked-mp3-decoder/
Maybe something like this would suit your needs? Realize this is Amazon Canada but can likely find similar if you are in the US
Hi All✋, I'm Sanal, product designer and maker. Lastday I launched a tiny filter app called ProDP✨
Meet ProDP : https://www.producthunt.com/posts/prodp
Please have a look whenever you are available and please provide your valuable feedbacks🗣️🔥🙏🏽
Something like this would work.
BroadLink Smart TV Remote, All in One Universal Remote Control Replacement for IR Entertainment Devices. Works with Alexa, Google Home, IFTTT, Siri Shortcuts (RM4 TV mate) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KLLR549/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_F5PN3TWGMHJE12FTJS6W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
She can still use the remote that she is use to, but you can trigger this to send signals to the TV based on your phone connected via vpn or IFTT etc.
If she has an echo you can give her commands.
Echos are kind of nice for older ppl because they can request music, weather, time etc and it just plays. I would just turn off any instant purchases.
BTW, I suppose that while we're sharing stuff we've submitted to Thingiverse, here's my first entry. I've only printed 2 of the 25 parts, but I'm hopeful that it will "snap together" when done.
With this, you download the Student SDK, and the EULA says non-commercial.
There's a whole other section for Entrepreneur licenses - https://www.solidworks.com/solution/business-segments/entrepreneurs-startups with the following bit:
Eligibility
SOLIDWORKS sponsors early-stage hardware startups with less than $1MM in funding, less than $1MM in lifetime revenue, and selling their own physical product. SOLIDWORKS does not accept service companies or consultants.
​
Totally different from Fusion's "Under $100k/year and you're fine."
Inkscape like they said above, or the sailors route. Arrr.
Illustrator also offers school discounts, it's still $20/m but comes with all their apps.
Alternatively alternatively, there is a free browser editor, which also has a desktop app. https://vectr.com/downloads/
Hope you find something that works!
https://turtlapp.com/ has a free offering and is open source. If its just for you its probably fine.
I think all google apps feed into your space limits
Lots of people use pintrest for collecting project ideas, I've never used it.
Trello is another options
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I'm not sure r/maker is a good place for this question, other than you wanting to organize maker related content. Maybe a organization sub reddit or something would have more advice.
You don't. Without seeing the fridge, you don't even know if there's a 12v rail inside it. If there is, you don't know if it has enough spare current to power your pump.
The correct way is pretty simple.
- Buy a power strip
- Plug a 12V, 60W power supply into the power strip
- Plug the fridge into the power strip
> I suspected that might be the case on the barrel. It's not spinning crazy fast, though and a lot of small motors I see have pretty high RPM. Is this accomplished by you finding a low RPM motor? Or are you controlling the speed by limiting the voltage or with a with a motor driver?
> Also, does your lift mechanism have feedback when it reaches full extension/retraction? Or did you just tune the code to never go past those points?
There's an encoder attached to the lift motor which lets me know how far and in what direction it's moved, and there's a homing limit switch at the bottom of the stroke
And np! I like talking about this stuff :D
Grip Gear The Directors Set. Pocket Sized Camera Motion Control kit , Electronic Camera Slider + Micro Camera Dolly+ Pano Mount.. Ideal for All Action, Smartphones , Mirrorless Cameras. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GTF4VVD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7B2J5GFNZ9MJWW3XZB96
I would use a small saw like this lovely XActo saw: https://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X75300-Precision-Razor-Saw/dp/B00004Z2U4
I've had one of these for years and use it quite often.
I agree with the Fluke meters depending on your budget. Fieldpiece also makes some great top-of-the-line meters. I use a 110 at work. At home, I have used an Extech ex310 for about 10 years.
Garmin 010-02062-00 Dash Cam Mini, Car Key-Sized Dash Cam, 140-Degree Wide-Angle Lens, Captures 1080P HD Footage, Very Compact with Automatic Incident Detection and Recording https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R638L8N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_FOb-FbYS598YD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have this in my mini. I installed the wires to the fuse box using an add a fuse kit on an unused fuse slot. it hides behind the rear view and is completely invisible unless you know it’s there. It also can run on battery with a kit to record when the cars not powered on.
Yes, calipers for sure. Indispensable for marking out joints and can be used to mark out both cuts, and line ridiculously accurately. I don’t know a ton about wood burning, so I’m of no help there. https://www.amazon.com/SE-780DC-Dial-Caliper-Only/dp/B0019O501A
For anyone that works with glue and small parts, a Babe Bot glue dispenser is amazing for precision glue application. The 4oz size is cheap for a gift and I use mine every day.
If you're buying for someone, I'd figure out their favorite YouTuber and browse their Etsy shop or Ebay shop.
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Otherwise, I think the following stores should have some good ideas
Woodworking: Rockler
Electronics: Digikey
Metal: ?
General: Make Magazine* edit
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For this price range, you can find some pretty cool measuring things. I think a thread gauge would be awesome: Like this or for name-brand, This.
Right now there is an amazon deal for the Dremel its only the 2 speed but still nice. Its only 35$ instead of 55$
I have done this recently - hooked up using the USB Serial cable that @plasticluthier mentioned. I got this cable from Amazon (UK link sorry): https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B072K3Z3TL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hook that that up (don't forget to switch the TX / RX on each end), make sure the CH_EN pin is high as well (this one messed me up a bit) and you should be able to flash with what firmware you like.
:)
Thank you!! We had a lot of fun! The best part is riding it around now though. Still got some work to do to make it great, but the fact that it works and we were able to get it together in an evening is awesome to me.
https://www.amazon.com/JAXPETY-1000W-Electric-Bicycle-Conversion/dp/B075SDDFDV
That's a link to the kit, but it now says "currently unavailable". I was weary of a $150 kit from (I'm sure) China, but it works fine. I expect almost any option on Amazon with a reasonably high rating is a safe bet. Plus, with Amazon's return policies...just don't throw away the box for a while.
So, so glad you got some enjoyment from the video!!!
As I suspected, your VO mic is a condenser. Treat your room and see if you get better results. If not, I’d go with a cardioid microphone. I use a Behringer xm8500 which you can find on Amazon for $20-30 depending on who’s selling it and if it includes an XLR cable. I also use a dedicated USB audio interface vs having one built into the mic. I started out with the Behringer UM2 which ran about $60 on Amazon. I’ve since upgraded to a Focusrite Scarlet 2i2 because it has some nice features I was after since I’d gotten more into the podcast. It ran about $110 as I recall. Yes, you’ll have separate components, but you’ll get a better overall sound and it’ll let you mix and match with different microphones for different occasions without having to worry if the mic can plug into your computer directly.
I don’t have any experience with the Rode type setup, but if you’re using the 3.5mm cord to plug straight into the iPhone, I don’t see why it would be poor quality. It almost sounded like the iPhone was using its onboard microphone instead of the external one. I imagine you’re using a Lightning-to-3.5mm headphone jack adapter, yes? What I’d check for is if that 3.5mm audio cord coming off the Rode receiver unit has 3 “rings” on it. Look at a set of headphones that have an inline mic. You’ll see on the plug there’s 3 rings. There’s 3 contact areas inside the jack - right audio, left audio, microphone audio. If that jack doesn’t have 3, it may not be making proper contact inside the plug and telling the iPhone “hey I’ve got an external mic here!” Hope that makes sense.
The picture of this lavalier mic has the kind of jack I’m talking about: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EO4A7L0/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_mG91DbNKN5GEE
Hope that helps!
I have these and they work great:
10PCS Hex Head Allen Wrench Drill Bit Set, VAKOGAL S2 Steel Hex Head Screwdriver Bit Set, with Magnetic, 1.5-8mm Metric, 1/4 Inch Hex Shank, 2 Inch Length, for Hand Held Wrench and Electric Drills https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WDVB3VG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rqruFbQN4EXCZ
I hate the rounded heads on some Allen drivers.. I work on cars/motorcycles a lot and they tend to just strip out the head.
What you're asking for are plastic spudgers, like this set.
They come in a wider variety of shapes than the above set, and for tougher jobs, they also come in metal.
HA! Ok, well then.
I would then suggest something like a thin fabric with wide "holes" between threads or perforated window film.
You would still need something rigid to put that on. So that would optimally be a clear heatformed polypropylene or acrylic sheet.
Try amazon smile to donate to charity automatically at no cost to you!
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Sorry for the delay in responding. I will post some drawings soon. Believe it or not, I got the glass off of Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F6TQD9J
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It was pretty inexpensive - under $20 USD.
Let me see if I can find my receipt from the hardware store. That's where everything but the base (scrap wood "stained" with acrylic craft paints), bulbs (Walmart), and main fixture (Amazon) came from. I just sort of stood in the plumbing and electrical aisles for an hour and figured it out. I'll post it if I can find it.
Edit: here is the main light fixture: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000A7UQES/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_624EEbE1QGWQB
Edit 2: Here is the parts list. Ignore the first item. I accidentally grabbed two of one type of bulb socket and one of another. It should be 3 of the second item. Parts List
Edit 3: Just a note on the build. The metal brackets on the candelabra sockets will need to be removed so they fit. I drilled out the rivets and electrical tapped them back together.
good video. you should check out plastic razor blades. super helpful in peeling acrylic!
There's probably some sort of app that you can use to take pictures but I'm not sure how accurate that would be... if your guitars are less than 2ft wide (I'd imagine they are), you could buy a roll of 2' paper like this, trace the template on it, then take that to kinkos and scan it. Then you'd have an image file you could convert with photoshop or something.
I'm guessing you are talking about something similar in function to this. They slip around the outer edge of dog tags to keep them from clinking.
Edit: Look up "C ring" seals and gaskets, I think that will give you a good start.
Don't forget safety. Its not very macho/sexy but once something shoots into your eye or you cut your finger to the bone you wont feel very macho either.
I printed out a few gnarly images of people having cut their hands on the table saw and put the words SAFETY FIRST! on there. This I stuck to my table saw to remind myself to always be attentive and cautious when using power tools... it only takes one second of being distracted and you'll see how soft human flesh can be.
Safety glasses
Gloves
Dust/gas mask
Make sure you have good lighting where you work and people know not to interrupt or scare you when you are working with power tools like saws.
If you working with a dremel's(or other rotary tool) little tiny grinding disks those can shatter as its a very high speed tool... they'll take out an eye like it's a space invader. Don't be scared of tools... respect them and have the right gear on that's all.
If you don't own a hammer, screwdriver, allen keys or <strong>utility knife</strong> I'd definitely start there and follow it up with cordless drill... those are basics everyone should have. If you're budget is tight leave the screwdrivers and make sure you have some screw driver bits for your drill and you'll manage. You don't have to buy expensive tools but avoid buying the cheapest brand.
A power drill can be a wonderfully versatile tool, depending on what bits & attachments you have. Specialized tools are of course better if you can get them, but if you have limited space and a limited budget a power drill and the right bit can often get the job done.
I've used saw bits like these for rough machining/shaping of woods, resins and clays.
It looks like you are all ready done with them, and they look great. I really like apoxy sculpt. This is really easy to use, has an long work time, and you can really smooth it out with wet fingers. dries and sticks great. https://www.amazon.com/Apoxie-Sculpt-1-Lb-Natural/dp/B000V58DS0/ref=sr_1_5/141-7678837-0075305?ie=UTF8&qid=1524152792&sr=8-5&keywords=aves+apoxie+sculpt
glue together a piece of cloth or canvas or anything with a piece of thin transparent plastic sheet material such as what they use for clear front report covers? as seen on front of this amazon product. https://www.amazon.com/Oxford-Premium-Report-Covers-Letter/dp/B000DN85PQ
probably don't even need to glue it. just cut out 2 exact shapes on the cloth and plastic and the plastic will give the cloth structure if you put it on the inside of the sail so it presses out against the cloth.
These are not controllable color. This means to turn them on and off with an arduino you will need a relay. Basically, you'll use an external power supply and you run the hot through the relay. The type of relay you want to use will depend really on one thing considering the power draw will be rather low for this many LEDs.
Standard Relay: This will be a cheap physical relay that are used for tons of projects and provide you a simple on off function and they work for 12v or 120v.
Solid State Relay: This is the type you would want to use if you need to dim the lights as they can be turned on/off many more times a second without physical wear. This is necessary to dim LEDs as they will use Pulse Width Management.
EDIT: Red and Blue colors work pretty well for this application. The only thing better is a full white spectrum but LEDs are not capable of that. White LEDs are actually blue with phosphorus painted on them and do not give out the same spectrum as filament bulbs. The accuracy of the wavelengths listed on the product may or may not be as advertised but will probably be close.
This Tekton set is my favorite and it's not too expensive and should cover at least all of your driver bit needs.
I bought a copy, I'm excited to put it together. As an aside, have you ever considered making a clock, like in this book?. It would probably turn out pretty cool looking
You know, all in all, it would probably be easier to just get the $100 Makita radio. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QN40TOY/ref=twister_B01N04JUKT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
No bluetooth, but I'm ok with that. Aux wire would have better quality anyway.
I'm super inexperinced, but an arduino could do this easily. That might be too large for you application. You might need a micro controller component, but I've never used one.
I have an arduino uno (clone), beginners kit, that has been really educational. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016D5KUHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
well here's my super messy code:
just get a strip of 50 leds here, cut it into strips of 7 and solder the connections back together in a serpentine layout. connect 5v to 5v, gnd to gnd, and the signal to pin 6 on the mega.
then take a stereo cable and cut it in half. either burn or strip away the rubber at the ends and solder connecting wires to gnd and the signals. for simplicity, i just concatenated the ground from both into one wire. connect gnd to gnd and one of the signals into analog pin1 on the mega.
compile and upload the code and voila!
This post seems like terrible advice. Getting a pump changed my life, and they're $6.54 on Amazon...
Yep, that's gonna be a pain to cut without a laser, water jet, or edm. Dremel is probably your best bet, the nibblers won't be fine enough. If the sheet is thin enough you might be able to use clippers. Maybe something like https://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBOOWQ? I've never tried.
Edit: at .008" you can definitely get away with the flush cutters. Heck, you might be able to get away with nail clippers.
Got it.
So, your specification of 30 Hz is (as noted) 1,800 rpm which as it happens is about the same speed as most computer case fans, such as this one.
If you need something a bit beefier you could enclose a motor like this one inside some sort of base, then run the shaft directly up to the base of your frame.
Do you have any sketches?
thanks for the advice! i do very general sfx [bit of prosthetics, props,fabrication like the suit] work (or im just starting to do it for myself rather than working for others) so as im sure you know pretty much every process/tool under the sun gets used in one way or another.
love the look of the knipex cutters, i have these and while they are great for the price, the small opening is a pain in the butt for doing many cuts.
never thought of using coat hanger wire! but makes sense, cheap and easily available and not too hard like piano wire. will be sure to give some a try
thanks for the response!
I used a fountain style atomizer for an old raspberry pi terrarium project. I can't speak to its effectiveness for your application, but it's simple and cheap.
Aaah! yes, this has potential. A little small for what I'm trying to do, but it is way better than anything I've found so far. Largely because what i'm finding is nice and cheap! Thank you sir!
For some reason not listed on the RadioShack website (RIP), but this kit has been a really great start for many in your exact situation.
Not super cheap but definitely cheaper than your local community college. The workbook is simple and light hearted and will definitely put you in a better place, (& maybe even be more employable!) at the end. I also remember going through the Electronics Merit badge and learning quite a lot. Might be a good shout to go down to their local office and see what the requirements were to get that and get whatever kits they offer there.
Get through those, maybe organize a small making event based around one of the projects found in this kit and you'll be well on your way to be leading your local maker movement! Don't forget that it's all about empowering others in the end, and I think you'll find you learn the most about the real world applications of your designs when you share them with others.
Hope that helps. I love that kit and recently for one for my niece. Best of luck!
there's cheaper RF remotes out there, but they don't come with a relay.
Edit: You can build one from scratch, but it'll take longer, and probably cost you more (i'd looked into it a few months ago).