What are
/r/originalxbox's
favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/originalxbox:
![Mcbazel Replacement Xbox Controller to PC USB Adapter Cable [NOT for Xbox 360 or Xbox One]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41irbB+uI-L._SL500_.jpg)
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/originalxbox:
The-Eye.eu
The Eye
SourceForge
Facebook Marketplace
ImgBB
Gofile.io
Retropie
Aliexpress
PCGamingWiki
RuTracker.org
wikiHow
ImgBurn
WinSCP
Mod DB
OpenWrt
The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/originalxbox:
My Game Collection (Tracker)
DriveDroid
irplus - Infrared Remote
The most popular reviews in /r/originalxbox:
Memory cards are basically regular USB flash drives in a special case with a special connector. If you pop one open and remove the 8MB flash drive, you can put in a replacement drive that is (much) larger. Drives up to 4GB are supported.
I used a SanDisk Cruzer Blade 4GB USB Flash Drive.
Once the drive is in, you can use the stock Xbox dashboard to format it. This works on stock (unmodded) Xboxes too.
It is called a ferrite bead, it helps prevent interference along the cable
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_bead
You can also purchase a premade cable if you'd like
https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Adapter-Cable-XBOX-Black/dp/B00SMCJB4Y
You're using a 40wire IDE cable. I can see it from the photo. IDE to SATA needs an 80wire IDE cable or components don't get enough power, causing these sorts of errors. I bought one of these when I modded my xbox and it did the trick.
Unless you are specifically sold on the CoinOps software package, I would buy a Raspberry Pi 3 and put RetroPie on it. This will be cheaper, run better, and work better with modern TVs than an Xbox.
No, they will need to be converted to .WMA with specific settings for them to be compatible as in-game soundtracks.
I think it's usually a 24" cable that's suggested...and they're hard to find everywhere, not just in Canada. I've got a dozen IDE cables lying around, and they're all 18" and shorter :-/
The SATA converter I have is the Startech one that's commonly recommended. It has a longer power cable, so that's not the problem. But it's designed to plug directly onto the drive. Looks like there are SATA extenders available, so that may be an option.
Personally I buy this. I have found that the thermal.remover is incredible, and the prep solution is nice. Plus it's good quality thermal compound.
This doesn't really answer your question, but Halo CE on pc (with some mods) looks amazing in high-res and obviously runs very well even on a poor PC. PCGamingWiki has the list of stuff needed for this setup.
Just to clarify, I didn't downvote. People on this sub just have a nasty habit of downvoting everything, even when it doesn't make any logical sense to do so.
But this drive is great. I have two of them. Not only does it work, but it also has the maximum 4GB storage that the Xbox can work with for a flash drive.
EDIT: And in case this eBay listing ends, this flash drive is also regularly available on Amazon.
Need more info on what you have. Brand, model number.
Post some pictures of it and the cable used to connect from the adapter to the Xbox.
Upload the images to an image sharing site such as https://imgur.com or https://imgbb.com/ then post the link to them in a comment.
I think that's normal as the Xbox tries to load a game disc before booting the dashboard from the HDD.
You could reflash your TSOP with the M8plus BIOS patching it with EVTool v1.0.9 to set the LBA48 configuration to match your current HDD configuration - Partition 6 Takes up to 137GB / Partition 7 Takes Rest - and uncheck the DVD Drive Check toggle. Save the BIOS under a new name, upload it to your Xbox and flash your TSOP.
This one is supposed to be good, for 20 quid. I've got it but haven't got round to trying it.
Portta HDMI Converter v1.3 Transformer Ypbpr Included RGB + R / L to HDMI Supports 1080p for HDTV Notebook Laptop Desktop PC Projector etc https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00VIRGH06/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_26QHRH1NWKW78XCWJRDT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Drive-Optical-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00EOJNGC2
I use the Startech adapter in all my Xbox, always works like a charm
I believe any sata hdd will lock on the xbox, its some of the ide drives that had trouble locking. I have 3 different ones. WD20EZRZ, WD20EZAZ, and a HGST HUS724030ALA640. The sata adapter is what causes issues from what I've read. I use the Startech adapter. It comes with a molex spliiter for cloning. If going sata, you'll need an 80 wire cable. I'd get this one from ChimericSystems.
The hdd ready set is about 1.6TB and will fit on a 2TB. I'd get the 3TB if you want the most room after its installed. Instead of the 1.8TB on the 2TB, you'll end up with 2.2TB on the 3TB. More room for emulators, etc.
Cloning with Chimp is pretty safe I'd say. When you load it, there is a prompt to remove the dvd cable and insert the new hdd, I'm not sure if you call that hot swapping.
Other softmods? You probably mean dashboards? I use Rocky's Emustation, it supports xbox games and emulators, and looks pretty modern. It also has a built in downloader for extra stuff. He also has XBMC4Gamers, if you only care about xbox games. UnleashX is also very popular, while not very modern looking, it works great, and is needed for ftp, as it gives the best speeds.
On Emustation, you can select any letter of the alphabet to quickly scan your xbox games.
TechHoarder, P3nce, and JCRocky5 have great youtube tutorials.
I've been using stuff like these from Amazon. It's not perfect but it works well and doesn't requiring opening the controller.
https://www.amazon.ca/GameSir-Controller-Analog-Covers-SlimTM/dp/B075NFVN1D/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1534956583&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=xbox+one+thumb+grips&dpPl=1&dpID=414VFnnKd3L&ref=plSrch
You want some leaded solder. https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Leaded-Solder-Pocket/dp/B072JQ1JH4
this will be 10 times better.
This is the Amazon listing that I got it from
KALEA-INFORMATIQUE © M2 to IDE Adapter Converter 3.5 Inches 40 Pins for M.2 NGFF Type SATA B Key (or B + M Key SATA) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MA5Z4SP/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_6Z3531NKD9VDJF6Q6VR8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You can get old prebuilt binary of extract-xiso.
You could also get the latest source code on GitHub and build it yourself.
If you want to use Windows apps, you could install wine on your Mac and run most of them natively. I'm sure any recent version of wine won't have any issue running those old Xiso apps.
Use your USB adaptor and "Xbohdm USB 23 Beta 2"
No need to burn disc or write USB pens, just place your C and E files in the hdm folder and run "Xboxhd.bat"
You can use my "XBHDM Build.zip" just put the C and E folder that's in the Linux folder in the hdm folder.
You will also need the eeprom.bin from the Xbox you want to put the new HDD in, you pace that in the same folder as the hdm and XboxHD.bat file.
Edit: Spelling
Flash a Force 480p version of the BIOS to your modchip.
Force 480p XBOX bios collection v3.rar
Force 480p XBOX bios collection v2.rar
Update: BFM (Boot From Media) - <filename>.bfm.bin - versions in the archive are NOT to be flashed to a modchip. Instead, they are loaded using the Phoenix BIOS Loader Xbox app.
You'll need to download XSavSig005 and have a copy of your old Xbox's HDDKey and new HDDKey so you can resign the save for the new console. (Game Saves Re-signer List: https://imgur.com/CNFjMvI)
Update: Looks like only the new Xbox's HDDKey is required. Readme.txt describes how to use the software. Burnout 2 requires 2 steps to be completed in the correct order to properly resign the game save.
Soft or hard modded run the Video switcher app. It's found under many different names NTSC-PAL switcher, Enigma Video Switcher, Video Select v2 EnigmaH-X](http://the-eye.eu/public/xbins/XBOX/Console%20Based%20Applications/apps/utilities/video%20mode%20switch/video_select_v2_enigmah-x.rar), etc.
A modded PAL Xbox has to be changed to NTSC for those options to appear in the MS Dashboard's Video Settings menu.
Nice. This is the one i ended up putting into my xbox. Yours looks good too
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PNLRLU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This particular fan running at 100% speed is slightly quieter than the stock fan would be only running at 40% speed so it definitely made quite the difference since i just keep it running at 40% speed and its nearly completely silent at that point.
In that case I think you'll need an external ir blaster, like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Smartphone-Controller-Phone-Universal-Conditioner/dp/B07F77S9G5/
I don't think it'll worth the troble unless you plant to use it for any other device...
For anyone else who wants one of these, you can also buy these for about $10 on Amazon:
NEORTX USB Adapter Cable for Xbox (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SMCJB4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jl17CbPQ70D2T
They have adapters for both male/female connectors.
If you’re using the stock ide cable then that’s your problem. This is what you need:
I’m in Canada too. Got this one from eBay. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/280560513073?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=nUmvE_S0THa&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=BbEKbYH9SKe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=EMAIL
The 36 inch cable makes hard drive swaps on chimp easy as fuck
Handbrake works for DVDs. You'll need MakeMKV to do Blurays. Handbrake is free, MakeMKV is $50 after a 30 day trial. Use this guide.
Xbins ftp server is still online. And there are two web sites that have a copy of it available:
The second site is not as complete as the first.
The connector to the console is almost standard USB, just with a 5th pin that I think is used for video synchronization in light guns, but doesn't get used in the Duke.
Linux ought to support it as a standard gamepad with the xpad driver, already in the kernel.
All the stuff you need should be on XBINS.
Here's the path: /XBOX/PC Based Applications/editors/_Game Editors/_Forza Motorsports Editors/
...and here's an NFO with instructions on how you're supposed to use that utility (hopefully it works for you!): https://www.xbins.org/nfo.php?file=xboxnfo1317.nfo
GOOD LUCK!
Edit: Here's the mirror hosted at The-Eye: https://the-eye.eu/public/xbins/XBOX/PC%20Based%20Applications/editors/_Game%20Editors/_Forza%20Motorsports%20Editors/
Only thing that needs to be added is a shortcut to your replacement dashboard named Evoxdash.xbe uploaded to the root of the C drive. It needs to be set to load your current replacement dashboard at E:\dash\default.xbe.
Download, extract and run Xbe Shortcut Maker 2.0 to create it then upload the file names Evoxdash.xbe to the root of the Xbox’s C drive before flashing an F and G Bios with HeXEn.
YOu could always get yourself one of these
Then load dd-wrt on it
https://dd-wrt.com/support/router-database/
Then use it as a wireless bridge. You can then hook up 4 devices to it and it will route to your wirelss router. This is how I do my systems. Works great!
You cannot join them together and keep the current data on them. Repartitioning to have only partition 6 instead of 6 and 7 will wipe out all data stored in them.
However, you can repartition the drive's extended storage space, that above the stock 8GBs, to have only an F drive with all the space allocated to it.
XBPartition v1.3 is the latest version.
If you need the files on F and G, download them all first before running XBPartitioner.
Upload the application's default.xbe file to the E:\Apps\XBPartitioner\ folder. If the folder doesn't exist, create it.
Restart the console to refresh the dashboards menu to add the new application to it.
Run XBPartitioner.
Press the White button to cycle through the default partitioning options.
Press Start then Y to apply the new partition configuration.
Upload the files to the new larger F drive.
Games don't show up in UnleashX from an ISO file. Softmodded consoles with nkPatcher's driveimageutils attach app to mount them. Each ISO goes into a separate subfolder in the E:, F: or G: Games folder with a copy of the attach app named default.xbe. The internal XBE Title of this default.xbe will need to be edited with UnleashX's File Manager. Browse to the default.xbe file then press the white button and scroll down to the Rename XBE Title option. Use the onscreen keyboard to change the title then select Done. Reboot the console and the game will now show up under its name in the Games menu.
What size are these ISO files?
Are they XISOs (generally <4GB each) or ReDump Dual-layer DVD ISOs disc images (generally 8GBs each)
UnleashX doesn't have native trainer support.
You will need to install the application Xored Mini Launcher v2.2.
Run it, select the trainer to use and launch the game.
Are the numbered game save folders at the root top-level or in sub folders of a UDATA folder?
What you are experiencing has happened to me. I had to wipe and reformat my USB drive with USBFATXFormatter v1.3.2. Try following u/jcrocky5’s YouTube tutorial: How to set up your USB Pen and install a Softmod.
If you have your eeprom.bin backup file, use the Windows app LiveInfo_Beta_3-Xbox_v1.6-Yoshihiro's Load EEPROM to open it and check the value displayed for the Unique HDD Key.
FTP the files to the C: drive. I'd first install/upload the contents extracted from this Evolution-X Build 3935 dashboard archive to the root of the C drive. And, the C folder contents from this Clean C and E files for Xbox archive.
I believe the 5x is sold out as well. The 5x is an amazing device but hard to get a hold of. If you were asking about the regular 2x-Pro: I don't think the regular 2x-Pro is a good choice for original Xbox as it doesn't have 480p passthrough. And most of the library is 480p on Xbox. You could check out a video RetroRGB did on YouTube on these two devices for more specifics on how they work. But two other options are below for you:
Does your TV have component inputs already? Some TVs do well with just straight in component and they do good scaling from there.
If you don't have component input, the RetroTinks are sold out, and you're just using this for the Xbox, my suggestion is to pick up a cheaper no-lag component to HDMI converter like these Portta ones on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VJ9RP6
That will get you a converted 480p signal and then just use a good quality HDMI cable from it to the TV. I've used this exact one for a while and it's great. If you look at other options, just don't get one that does scaling, you want just conversion.
i fallowed this video for cleaning. the drives are pretty easy to take apart (4 screws on the samsung) but id recommend finding out which version dvd drive you have and trying to find a video on that drive.
edit: I've also saw someone say these belts worked as replacements on the og xbox drives but i cant confirm. (if you determine it is a belt issue)
Like this cradle I have and yes, I’d be using it after the drive has been cloned from the original and partitioned
Inateck USB 3.0 to SATA Dual-Bay USB 3.0 Hard Drive Docking Station with Offline Clone Function fit 2.5 and 3.5 inch HDD SSD SATA (SATA I/II/III), Support 2X 8TB and UASP, Black FD2002 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N1KXE9K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_S6RFA17T8P6JJ5E245MF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This fan is WAY cheaper on Amazon if ur willing to use a zip tie or two to keep it secured.
Nexus 70mm Real Silent Case Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PNLRLU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SWYE9E88DVVHH7374B1H?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Use the StarTech IDE to SATA Adapter (Atm $11 bucks). https://www.amazon.com/-/de/dp/B001PYSAJI/ref=sr_1_4?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&dchild=1&keywords=startech+ide+to+sata+adapter&qid=1622261197&sr=8-4
I have one of these so just an FYI. These can be REALLY tight on the inputs they connect to. So tight they can literally rip the nub out of your TV. If thats the case with yours I suggest using something like this in between the Monster Cable & TV input
There are multiple ways to accomplish this - one way would be to get the chimeric systems HDMI adapter WITH the toslink output and then get a toslink optical audio cable and then something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y7BK7B1
You could also send it through a sound system and extract the audio output into your headphones that way.
They also make things that output from a normal headphone jack to a bluetooth signal that you could then tie to your headphones.
However you wanna do it 🤷🏻♂️
Yeah, the usb cable just plugs into port 2 to transfer the files to your hdd. That's the wrong adapter, that's for use with xplorer360 and xboxhdm. You need this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EOJNGC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_X44aGbP9QAMF4
You don't need a pc to use Chimp. Just remove the top of the Xbox and use the molex splitter.
Anyone know how the Noctua fan compares to this one? https://www.amazon.com/Nexus-70mm-Real-Silent-Case/dp/B003PNLRLU
I have two of these in two debug kits. I'm thinking about getting two more for some retail systems.
Humourously, this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Original-Converter-Automatically-Composite-Compatible/dp/B0829V2HHF/
I had 2 pound HDMI cables actually fry Xboxes.
I bought the 'officially licensed' one, and it was pure unadulterated crap (it looked terrible).
I bought this, which looks like just some cheap chineseum. and it has been the best looking and most reliable of the bunch.
I've got this USB 2.0 SATA/PATA adapter and it works slightly better than the USB 3.0 one mentioned in the OP. But while I can now run the checklock option without using any special options, I don't think I have managed to successfully hotswap the drive.
- Tried various hotswap methods (boot to dash, force error 12 by disconnecting DVD power, among them)
- checklock reports drive as locked
- Windows disk manager can see the XFAT partition as unallocated space
But ultimately, XBOXHDM cannot mount the partition (although it claims to see the partition table). So the new adapter didn't really make much of a difference in the end.
In the end I bit the bullet and went with couturiervite's suggestion of just using a savegame exploit and ordered an USB-XBOX cable + Splinter Cell off eBay (<$10 total).
Once I manage to mod it and dump the EEPROM I will report back whether I can actually read the drive/create a new one with the adapter.
It seems like hotswapping with an adapter is definitely not as straightforward as it used to be with a computer that had a native IDE interface.
To control it, I am thinking something similar to this rotary switch. Wiring a separate neutral for each color. I wouldn't need color combinations, just a selection of colors to choose from.
Full disclosure, I am surprising my brother with an xbox for Christmas and don't know what color he would want. So I'm playing it safe and painting the thing white and encircling the jewel with a small strip.
https://www.amazon.com/Xbox-Original-GhostCase-LED-Kit-Blue/dp/B007QUG3P8 https://ghostcase.com/product/xbox-plug-n-play-n-play-kit/ Your going to have to figure out how to cut the hole and let it shine through on your own though bud.
Good point, you can actually buy a new OEM controller for 11.98 from Amazon. You can buy one of the third party ones from Amazon for 11.99 with free 2 day shipping.
How are you differentiating yourself?
I think you might be looking for a component video switch. I found this one on Amazon for a reasonable price.
I don't think it's possible.
I see some people chaining two different adapters together. But, lots of people say it does not work.
HDE Playstation 2/3 to Xbox360 Controller Adapter
and
XP Joybox Adapter Xbox Controller to PS2 Adapter which is currently unavailable at Amazon.
Thanks, ended up going back to the hard drive tut here in this sub and found this linked one to amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003IDF0JC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A2JSBUBRVPP4SX&psc=1
I've been using this one personally without any issues. https://www.amazon.com/Portta-YPbPr-Component-Converter-support/dp/B0088HO1UC/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1531024103&sr=8-13&keywords=portta+component+to+hdmi If you don't mind used check amazon warehouse deals for a hefty discount, thats what I did. Note this one does not upscale, they do have another model that upscales.
With three RCA jacks, that would be the advanced AV pack (i.e., composite, not component).
Edit: Amazon ref https://www.amazon.com/Xbox-Advanced-AV-Pack/dp/B0000C6EDK .
I'm not aware of anything specific to xbox, but you could try one of these little adapters with a female to female headphone adapter
Any new wireless Ethernet bridging adapter will work. You won't be able to configure it from the Xbox. That process will have to be done on your home computer first then connect it to the console.
For example:
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Ethernet-2-WiFi-Universal-Wireless-GWU637/dp/B018YPWORE/
I bought a
Nexus 70mm Real Silent Case Fan
From amazon. It is hightly recommended for the original Xbox as it's pretty much a direct replacement... I'm happy with the one I fitted in my 1.6.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nexus-70mm-.../dp/B003PNLRLU(Also read the reviews on amazon)
Also see lots of videos about it on youtube......
I picked mine up from The Capacitor Store on Amazon. I even wrote a review. They were very friendly and assured me these were newly made.
I just changed mine because they they were bulging and two were leaking (see top half of photo). My console wasn't powering on and when I opened it I saw the capacitors leaking and posted here for tips from others.
Since I've had this Xbox for at least 15 years, I thought it was a good idea to change all 5 of the same capacitors since they came in a pack of 8 and I was not sure how far gone the others were.
Edit (link): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008PN0DOW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If anyone can tell me, are these a good replacement? https://www.amazon.com/pcs-Panasonic-FM-Capacitors-3300uf/dp/B073YQHLSM/ref=pd_aw_sbs_328_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B073YQHLSM&pd_rd_r=5975f00f-c388-11e8-85d4-ef9f8da44be6&pd_rd_w=Wvzdt&pd_rd_wg=0dXct&pf_rd_i=mobile-dp-sims&...
Pound Technology HD Link Cable for Original Xbox v2
It's sold through Amazon for $29.99 when in stock - just checked and Amazon states in stock.
You can find on eBay too but sometimes at a much higher price. :)
Same video tutorial I used to mod mine. You do kind of have to get creative with the dremel to make it all fit. I used the Noctua NF-R8 https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Bearing-Cooling-NF-R8-redux-1800/dp/B00KF7P34G/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536189695&sr=1-6&keywords=noctua+nf-r8 plugged into the original fan port. It runs 100% silent with the case on and temperatures sit at 50C under full load. You can mod these fans to run at their full 12v speed for additional cooling, but I'm happy with that temp and a silent machine.
Startech adapters are the only good IDE to SATA adapters for the OG Xbox because they're able to properly max out the speed of the IDE connector, unlike generic clones
Other than that no changes were made
UK and US Xboxes may accept the same plug, but they have different internal power supplies that require different voltages. There should be a sticker near the power socket that will say what voltage the power supply needs. A UK console will say 220-240v while a US console will show a much lower voltage value (around 100v-120v I believe). If it doesn't say 220v-240v then plugging it straight into a UK plug will likely blow the power supply.
I bought one of these step-down transformers for a Japanese Xbox that I imported and it works just fine. US and Japanese consoles should use the same voltage ranges, so that should work for you as well.
A softmodded console MUST be locked using the HDD of the particular console its going into.
Tbh if you are making that many drives then i would just forget softmodding and push ahead with TSOP flashing wherever possible, or modchips.
​
Also switching to SATA drives would allow you to clone them using one of these....
https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B076H5P6Z1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is exactly what I use when i need to clone my drives, mine are all SATA.
Really appreciate you going to that effort mate.
I've landed on a Portta brand component to hdmi converter. It's $30 and a comparison/review vid completely sold me on it.
Portta:
Review/comparison video
I'm not a wealthy man so it'll be a lifesaver not having to use a shoddy converter with an ugly display. With the 4 input 1080p 60hz HDMI switch I have here it'll be perfect for the OG, 360, PS2 and PS3. TV has 3 hdmi ports and the other two stay solo for my PC and Series X. For some reason the SX really doesn't like switches 🤷♂️
Look into GBS control.. or just use the Arcade board without GBS control (if you are not using CGA or non-interlace video.
XboxHDM2 is a bootable Linux for making/accessing Xbox HDDs.
Xbox H ard D rive M aker
There are versions you can burn to disc and boot on a PC (xboxhdm2/Release 2.2a) or setup a bootable USB thumb drive (xboxhdmusb23/Beta 2) to use it. Obtain from https://sourceforge.net/projects/xboxhdm2/files/
You need a copy of the Xbox's EEPROM backup (eeprom.bin) to unlock the HDD so Midnight Commander (file manager) can access the contents of the HDD.
Which method to use with XboxHDM2 to unlock the HDD: softmodding to backup EEPROM contents, using an eeprom reader to obtain EEPROM contents, or hotswap to PC after Xbox unlocks the HDD (Microsoft displayed under the big X logo after the flubber!), you decide?
Oh, I see it now. It's too early for me to be commenting :[
I've never connected used Xplorer360 on a drive via USB (only flash drivers), but you could try XboxHDM2 (which is a version of XboxHDM that works in Windows for USB drives).
Before buying the first adapter, I actually used a switcher where I would plug the Xbox in via Scart and then use a Scart to HDMI for signal output. That worked totally fine on this TV, but naturally looked abominable. So it's highly unlikely there's an issue there. Plus, the Nimbus works a lot better already than the ones before, so I'd wager the reason is external.
Thanks for mentioning the Electron Shepherd one, though! Didn't know about that one. But before I spend money again, I'll try to find a solution with the Nimbus for now.
In addition to the aforementioned OGX360 which is an open-source community developed solution, the other main product I've seen recommended is the Brook Wingman XB Converter:
https://www.amazon.com/Brook-Wingman-Support-Controllers-Consoles/dp/B08H1SYGWV
It supports a wired 360 controller by plugging into the adapter, or wireless 360 controllers if you purchase the wireless USB adapter for 360 controllers and plug that in.
Note you will also need to purchase a USB => Xbox controller port cable adapter if you buy this.
I've used a TP-Link mobile router to achieve wireless on the OG a few times in the past.
Also use them to provide decent wireless coverage in the bedrooms of my house, hardwire to the rooms and then one of these to provide wifi. Can't complain about their performance either.
I recommend one of the Tp-Link mobile router/access points. This will use modern wifi and therefore be secure. Just use an ethernet cable to attach it to your xbox after setting it up to connect to your network.
​
I have used the one below just fine...
​
Yeah definitely something along those lines, but if it were me I'd go for something that supports wireless AC as well as wireless N:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Extender-Repeater-Housing-RE200/dp/B00NR2VMNC?th=1
>travel routers/access points
what about this?
The link to the monitor PDF is not working for me but by the sound of your description it does sound like it might support Component via VGA.
Component to VGA adapters are reasonably cheap so its worth trying even if it turns out it does not work.
This is similar to the one I've used:-
On Ebay/Amazon I've only been able to find this type now:-
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ex-Pro%C2%AE-Gold-Phono-Component-Cable/dp/B008AX8VKU
with that you'll need 3 x F/F RCA adapters to connect it to the Component cable.
If you want to "go all out" then you can get a molex splitter and run some early 2000 level pc case lights.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Molex-Female-Power-Splitter/dp/B002HM9G7C/
If not that will give you a solid 5v and 12v to run just about any lights you want.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07MQD2DNP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This one works flawlessly, used it yesterday, also goes on sale.
Did this 2 months ago on my 1.6, and searched forever for a 7200rpm at good price. https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-Barracuda-Internal-Drive-3-5-Inch/dp/B07H2RR55Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=1384H7JOITUV9&keywords=seagate+2tb&qid=1667660284&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjk3IiwicXNhIjoiMi4yOCIsInFzcCI6IjEuOTQifQ%3D%3D&refinements=p_n_ava...
I have used one of these a few times on an Xbox when an Ethernet port wasn't available..
Any powerline adapter (if your wiring is good enough), or wireless bridge should work for you.
Personally, I'm using a TP-Link Wifi Extender to connect my Xbox upstairs; it just plugs into an outlet, connects to Wifi and exposes an Ethernet port for your Xbox to use.
One of our testers uses an Apple Airport Extreme to do the same thing.
If you want something cheap and cheerful, I have tested one of these in the past and it worked for me: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bridge-Convert-Ethernet-Wireless-Repeater/dp/B07TND8849
If you are not confident with the soldering iron then you should use conductive paint to bridge the TSOP points. It literally takes a drop on the end of a toothpick and they are bridged. I've done this many times to successfully flash the TSOP on many Xbox consoles.
It will also come off completely afterwards with a little IPA.
The link below links to a similar one to what i use.
​
ChipQuik SMD1 Leaded Low... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019UZP7I?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This is what I use - keep in mind that it's mainly for removing things like SMD components (i used it to remove the AVIP) and you want to make sure you remove it all after use.
You did what now? I see something in your last comment that looks like Japanese, but I cant tell lol. Seriously though, all that without a PC!
So, so far I removed the IDE drive from my box and placed it in a USB caddy, installed .NET 6, then install FatXPLORER Beta. With the caddy Windows (explorer/My PC) can't see the HD but, disk manager can see it and asks if I want to initialize it (obviously initializing it would be bad).
A quick question - When placing a locked Hard Drive onto a windows system, is Windows totally blind to the physical device? Like no drive displayed etc. (apart from Disk Manager detection?).
Either way , the USB caddy method didn't work and I didn't expect it to. I was just hoping it might. Eaton from Fatxplorer mentions that people have had success with this USB adapter (tbh it looks just like a caddy without the case).
A quick question 2 - Is Fatxplorer needed just to unlock the drive, then I can read the drive in windows right?
Sorry if I'm taxing your superior brain too much 🙂
I found it was a crap shoot with cheap usb2 4gb and smaller drives. IF you haven't bought anything Pencepc.com has a whole Softmod pack with a 2TB HDD for $140, which is a good deal considering it comes with all the games and dashboards pre-loaded and configured. I wish I had bought that initially, it would've save me a ton of time. Other folks have similar sales. Otherwise this is the pack I bought that worked for me. Amazon Link
I use one of these with a PS3 that has a busted HDMI port. It's been working well, although there's a tiny bit of interference that's visible on some screens.
Reminds me of my first soldering iron. That thing was huge, hot way too hot, and was just terrible to use for any small/detailed work. Something like this: Weller D550
These days I use a soldering station that cost like $400 and it's such a pleasure to use. Makes me think I wasn't bad at soldering when I was young, but it was like I was trying to paint a house with a paintball gun. The right tool for the job makes all the difference.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SJQFH7S/
This stuff eats up normal thermal paste nearly instantly. It takes a little work but it absolutely breaks down xbox thermal tar or bubble gum too.
If you can't get ArctiClean and only have access to IPA try a plastic razor scraper like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W5Z2CBQ/ and finish it off with copious amounts of 99% IPA and a tough lint free cloth.
Start with replacing the five capacitors on the bottom right of the board as they are bulging and are definitely bad.
You can replace them with these off Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BWCS8LT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This is the one I got:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07ZNGCGZN/
Where do I keep it? As in how did I fit it? I found the new SSD with the adapter attached fit quite well in the space vacated by the larger old HDD. I looked at some brackets to hold the new drive in place properly, but I couldn't be sure the size was exactly right, so in the end I just used some small adhesive squares to lightly fix it in place. The Xbox stays where it is, so I don't have to worry about it being shaken around too much. I'm not constantly carrying it between rooms or anything. The trickiest thing was fitting the new longer ribbon cable. That took some jiggling and folding, but I got the lid back on eventually.
This might help if you don’t have any of the following. This is what I did to improve the image. You save alot more money going the mclassic route vs the retrotink5x.
Mclassic
Evanlak Edid 2K 2560x1440 60hz (Enables 1440p)
Xbox2hdmi
I hear ya your definitely best to buy the tv that gets super marked down. I got Hisense U9DG for $1000. Basically its comparable in c1 picture quality buts lacks motion at times a tiny bit of blooming. It was either that or wait till I find a 75 inch c1 for $2000. Rather save $1000 personally.
I can do it at cost if you want. The 2.7v 1uf clock cap (you can over rate voltage and it's a minimal difference anyway, works fine) I ordered 50 of so was charged 56p and the 6.3v 3300uf cpu caps I ordered 300 of so was charged 44p a unit. So +20% vat on that as long as I get £3.32 and shipping I'm happy, pay what you want above that basically
Yep, the little fan is for the GPU. If you have access to a 3D printer, you can print the Noctua fan mount yourself, and get the fan on Amazon for like 15 bucks, or alternatively you can buy a kit that includes both the fan and mount but it will cost a bit more.