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You definitely want to be booting off an SSD (for speed and responsiveness).
You can move the windows install partition with https://www.macrium.com/reflectfree
Yeah, the one in the back and maybe the top left as well if possible, just to even it out. These help with dust.
AIYUE 120MM Magnetic Frame PC Fan Dust Filter Computer Case Fan Magnetic Frame Dust Filter Fine PVC Mesh https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077CR74LL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YV9JWPQ0Y8NCJ4PEPS2Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Assuming that’s a 9 pin, something like this would work well.
Rocketek Motherboard USB 2.0 9pin Header 1 to 4 Extension Hub Splitter Adapter - Converter MB USB 2.0 Female to 4 Female - 30CM Cable USB 9-pin Internal Cable 9 pin Connector Adapter Port Multiplier … https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SLQ63G7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_HKK71QEKVG6435HH1V89?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I found this one is it any good?
AMD or Intel? I have a MSI MAG Mortar B550M that is great. It is also on sale for $139 (USD) Amazon MSI B550M
If you like ultrawide here's one 34' 1440 p 100hz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G5FCR6X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_W8Q6908BYDPT8T3688X3 And here's a 32' normal one 1440p 165 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088P87LHX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_4R7KNF38X2MMRQ1CBZJE You could find cheaper ones I just sent the models I've used before
If your computer is good enough to to run games at 90 FPS or faster I would suggest a monitor but unless you have an extra grand to spend high speed 4k monitors are ridiculously prices right now. I personally use a 1440p @ 144hz 32" LG monitor and love it. Here is the Amazon link to the same one I have and have zero complaints with it. LG 32" Ultra Gear Monitor
You'll have 2 issues using a TV as a monitor for gaming, the first being the refresh rate and the second being input lag. Most TVs top off at 60Hz but if you're lucky you'll find one that hits 75HZ so a high end PC performing at FPS rates higher than the monitor will experience screen "clipping" or "tearing". Some TVs have a high input lag which is just a nightmare in itself, I had a Polaroid TV that "should" have been perfect but the input lag was terrible. I'd move the mouse and it be a solid 2 count before the mouse moved across the screen.
Which ever way you go.. choose the highest refresh rate and lowest response time and you should be fine.
I've been using the Prime series of motherboards for years with both Intel and AMD chipsets and have had ZERO issue with them. Great reliability and features for gamers but awesome data transfer speeds for multimedia and at $150 you can't beat it,.
I have personally used this board recently with the 5950x and it is a beast.
The 10-pin is most likely part of the motherboard cable as the motherboard cable is a 24-pin connector.
When it comes to power, the SATA1,SATA2,PERIF can be used interchangeably.
I am unsure what you mean by the Hue 2 but if you need to supply power to several cables, there is usually a power interface that connects to just one PSU output and allows for multiple components to run (e.g. multiple RGB strips).
https://www.amazon.co.uk/NZXT-Changing-Internal-Controller-Lighting/dp/B07GQC1CHG
Here's a nice phanteks case for about 80 dollars. I know that it's a nice case and it should be able to hold all those parts (although look up the compatibility with it to make sure everything fits). I know it's a bit above 60 dollars but it's a good brand of cases. I have a phanteks case myself.
​
Here's a link to a smaller cooler, but this cooler is better for light overclocking (<1.35) or no overclocking at all. So you might have to get different ram that is either smaller or doesn't overclock as much. Or just get a different ram that is smaller, but can still overclock enough to get the NH-D15.
​
they arent interchangeable because the pinout is different. hubs dont seem to exist, you could get splitters
Sorry I misspoke cause I have trouble with all this lexicon, here are the rams in question:
https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Corsair-Vengeance-3200MHz-Performance-Desktop/dp/B07RW6Z692 /ref=psdc_430178031_t2_B097RHD2Q7?th=1
In fact these corsairs work at 3200 MHz when the XMP profile is activated but they work at 2133 MHz (SPD or plug n play), with the Ballistix or the Fury we have direct 2666 in plug n play, so if I put the corsairs at 2666 MHz, that's OC, isn't it?
It's easiest to get a usb external drive, in your case. Here's one 8TB seagate for $150. But your PC looks likes it doesn't have any usb3 so this usb3 hard drive can only transfer at slower usb2 speed.
Either way, you’ve overpaid. If you can return it and get this one it would be better: https://www.amazon.com/Desktop-i5-11400F-GeForce-Windows-G10CE-US564/dp/B0B7R15SZ8/ref=sr_1_5?crid=25EJXXXOR0K3N&keywords=3060+PC+11400F&qid=1667326604&sprefix=3060+pc+11400%2Caps%2C273&sr=8-5
This sketchy looking thing https://www.amazon.ca/Q-XIAOKEAI-Upgrade-Coolmoon-Wireless-Intelligent/dp/B09BZ6BXQK/ref=mp_s_a_1_34
But you can get it off AliExpress for $10, not 26.
Works great with all the crap I have. (And some splitters) 10x argb fans, 2 argb aios, 4x rgb strips, and that t force delta argb sata 2.5” ssd. I believe it is 10 argb ports. Sata power, rc / mobo sync (optional) and a fan hub.
You can buy the individual parts to an aio but it’s oddly way more expensive to do that. Your looking at 70 bucks or so just for the 360 aio radiator. Just get an aio you like and save your tower fans for something else or repurpose them as more case fans.
you think this one is worth it or should i go for the rx6600
https://www.amazon.es/EVGA-GeForce-Gaming-06G-P4-2068-KR-Backplate/dp/B083JX52VG?th=1&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=a1n4n45-21&linkId=fa8935373427cc7a641a4d6ec712ec27&language=pt_PT&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
you think this one is worth it or should i go for the rx6600
Nvidia recently created a new 12 pin connector for their power hungry GPUs. This connector is not in the ATX standard, so PSUs don't come with it. Having said that, many high wattage PSUs began to bundle a 2x8 pin to 12 pin adapter in their PSU boxes. If yours doesn't have one, then you'll have to get one, for example this one.
First of all, I'll assume by "under the cpu" you meant "under the CPU cooler" or "on the CPU" 😅.
Although a thermal paste does "dry" and harden over time, that's only really a problem if the paste then "cracks" and looses contact with the CPU/cooler. Generally on a stationarry PC this is basically not a problem. At best you'd see a few degrees increase in temperature after some years. Though, by then your biggest problem will be the accumulated dust, not the paste.
If you are still worried about it, you can get an IC Graphite Pad or the Thermal Grizzly Carbonaut, which are carbon pads that, unless you intentionally tear it, don't deteriorate with time. They can even be reused if you ever swap the CPU/cooler or remove the cooler for cleaning. It will perform a few degrees worse than a good thermal paste though.
So long story short, by the time you have to replace the paste (many years later), the PC would be obsolite anyway.
I've had a very good experience with DeepCool Gammaxx GT-A RGB, however for it to support LGA 1700 socket you'd need to get the free kit from DeepCool
https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B08BQBJ4SB/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A20ECKCMR0OLQ&psc=1
isn't this case decent?
anyways here in Italy this is the lowest price for this cpu.
is there a big difference between 12400 and 11400?
Looks like one of those rare times I would say time for a riser cable as its cheaper than the motherboard replacement. Hopefully your case supports it, if not, I would see if a case and the riser together would be cheaper than a newer board.
I have this one, never bought any other, used it a few times and would recommend it as had no issues with it but im running a 2080s so maybe check more into it.
This is the case: Nfortec Lynx - Torre Gaming... https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07PJZD4QC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share This is the motherboard: Gigabyte B550M DS3H mATX Scheda... https://www.amazon.it/dp/B089TNX9YT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Ultra Slim 3050 Ti (also means ultra bad cooling and ultra hot components when gaming)
haha nah it is. I know it looks like it isn’t but it just has another connector for a gpu in the middle of it like this. Trust me, it is connected but I just didn’t have any other wires that looked better for the job since this was my first build.
The amd fan you have came with an rgb adapter, here is the replacement
Then you need to see if the rgb connectors are three or 4 pin in the back section of the case
LG 24GN600-B Ultragear Gaming Monitor 24 inch Full HD (1920 x 1080) IPS Display, 1ms (GtG) Response Time, 144Hz Refresh Rate, AMD FreeSync Premium, HDR10, 3-Side Virtually Borderless Display https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08PHKNNRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_C1J5Y55DF69J7YGNF79G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1, Jesus didn’t think the link was that long but I still haven’t really decided on the monitor, may even go for a TV
Then I would recommend you buy this GTX 1650 instead. It's around the same performance $219 and it doesn't have all the stupid limitations that the 6500XT has.
this is the monitor I have, and I absolutely love it. Vibrant colors and a sharp picture at an unbeatable price imo. Just make sure you go adjust the picture settings to your liking, but even still it looked great straight out of the box. I know it depends on the game, but my 3080 ti puts out an average of 100 fps on most games at high/ultra settings. But again, it depends on the game. So I would guess you would get slightly less but similar fps on it.
You can buy replacement M.2 screws from Amazon. If you don't have the option to use Amazon just search on whatever store you can use.
I found this one just doing a quick search: https://www.amazon.com/SGTKJSJS-M-2-Screw-NVMe-Mounting/dp/B07Q3DLCJ4/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=3LYC784LTUB42&keywords=m.2+ssd+screw&qid=1650813175&sprefix=m.2+ssd+screw%2Caps%2C57&sr=8-3
What’s the conversion rate on that currency , I think you can get g skill ripjaws for around same price or cheaper I know they work with the mb I recommended . G.Skill RipJaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin SDRAM PC4-28800 DDR4 3600 CL18-22-22-42 1.35V Dual Channel Desktop Memory Model F4-3600C18D-16GVK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XJLDHW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JNGKWTE9SR9PXCYC33XW
cpu: AMD Ryzen™ 5 5600 6-Core, 12-Thread Unlocked Desktop Processor with Wraith Stealth Cooler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09VCHR1VH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DW1SJTZT0470WN92B7A7
board: MSI B550-A PRO ProSeries Motherboard (AMD AM4, DDR4, PCIe 4.0, SATA 6Gb/s, M.2, USB 3.2 Gen 2, HDMI/DP, ATX) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089CZSQB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8R2AT6Z7A87VE67TN8Z8
here's a great testing card just return when done
MSI GeForce RTX 3060 Ti Ventus 2X LHR Graphics Card 8GB GDDR6 PCI Express 4.0 TORX Fan 3.0 Zero FROZR 1x HDMI 2.1 3X DisplayPort 1.4a + HDMI Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09V49FXLJ/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_N7Q22H8VQ1G13FXAVMB7
This is the exact model i got
EVGA GeForce RTX 3060 Ti XC Gaming, 08G-P5-3663-KL, 8GB GDDR6, Metal Backplate, LHR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097CMQVF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QYHD6GEDG40SSHYFYMPS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Not doubting you but can u show me where these are selling for 400
It has a front panel header for USB 3
XFX Speedster SWFT 210 Radeon RX 6600 CORE Gaming Graphics Card with 8GB GDDR6 HDMI 3xDP, AMD RDNA 2 RX-66XL8LFDQ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09HHLX543/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_XZS142AR8TK5AD9FKJ03 I’d go with this one. The xfx cards run the coolest for the air cards on Radeon side.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NW23275/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_B3TKEM7RYKHPMWSHBAZF
Tick coupon checkbox for 10% off.
$1000 less for 3080 compared to 3080ti Skytech Shiva Gaming PC Desktop - AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7GHz, RTX 3080 10GB GDDR6X, 16GB DDR4 3200, 1TB NVMe SSD, 750W Gold PSU, AC WiFi, Windows 10 Home 64-bit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08W9891TQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_81DG0692YVE4PZDGRVSY?psc=1
Skytech Prism II Gaming Computer PC Desktop - AMD Ryzen 7 5800X 8-Core 3.8GHz, RTX 3080 Ti 12G GDDR6X, 1TB NVMe Gen4 SSD, 16GB DDR4 3200, RGB Fans, 360mm AIO, AC WiFi, Windows 10 Home 64-bit, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09PFLX26Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_T8QDXWSCF5V8Z6WKAB08?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Hmm. I took a look here:
https://www.blender.org/download/requirements/
You should prioritize this requirement:
>Graphics card with 4 GB RAM
Adjust everything around that especially if your budget is limited, and you should be good to go. Now, if you have, like $3000 to spend, then just go nuts with a system builder tool and don't sweat the fine points too much.
As such, if your budget is limited, a "64-bit quad core CPU" can mean anything from a Ryzen 3300X on up, or an Intel i3 10100 on up, so you have considerable freedom of choice in adjusting your setup for future expansion, and here's how: Choose a B550 or B560 motherboard, and that will provide the necessary platform to allow you to jump to, say, a 5800X on the Ryzen side or an i7 10xxx or 11xxx on the Intel side.
Samsungs software is pretty good for migration or SSD/HDD cloning but I also like to use Macrium Reflect, has a lot of features and tools even on the free version...
it's really great to know that you used G2A.
If you're happy with shopping and you have a free moment, we'd be super glad if you dropped by and gave us a rating on <strong>Trustpilot</strong> - (just like Mario we are collecting stars). If not, please share with me any feedback you might have to improve the quality of your shopping.
All the best!
I would prefer to build one and normally it’ll cheaper but for 1K budget, a prebuilt is better value: https://www.amazon.com/Allied-Gaming-Patriot-Desktop-PCI/dp/B09DB2V9TC
Sorry if this wasn’t the answer you were expecting.
Yes, its fully upgradeable.
The 5600G has integrated graphics
If you need wifi just get one of these here
And for your last I mean no, but I just found the N7 B550 a bit much in terms of pricing for just a B550 board so i went lower
I would sell if anyone will buy it and take that money and save up some more to buy something that's 8th gen I series or newer or Ryzen comparable that is officially supported by windows 11, sure there's ways around TPM and CPU requirements but MS may end up killing off updates to hacked machines. Otherwise it will run light weight Linux distro's fine for web browsing. Check out MX Linux, Ive used on pentium 4's with hyperthreading and people used them for several years when the system was already obsolete. The other thing to consider is the amount of power it takes to run the core2quad vs a newer pentium or Celeron will have way more performance and cost less to power. https://mxlinux.org/
Hey there!
It's great to know that you used G2A successfully.
If you're happy with shopping and you have a free moment, we'd be super glad if you dropped by and gave us a rating on <strong>Trustpilot</strong> - (just like Mario we are collecting stars). If not, please share with me any feedback you might have to improve the quality of your shopping.
Thank you for your time, best!
Also, I found another 1050 for 152$ but it is 50$ shipping for me in Hong Kong so yah
My card is cheaper but it is new and has DP 1.2 and HDMI
Also, I found another 1050 for 152$ but it is 50$ shipping for me in Hong Kong so yah
Yes you should…..recommend power for a 6600xt system is 450w so I’d say try to get a 500w psu. You can get a 500w for $31 or a 600w for $35. If you can spare the $4 I’d do the 600w gives you more future upgrade capability. 500W 600w id recommend doing it soon while they’re still on sale. 500w is generally $45 and 600w is generally $75.
If you are ok with it being around $115, this is an EXCELLENT psu for your build. Comes in both black and white. Corsair RMX White Series (2018), RM750x, 750 Watt, 80+ Gold Certified, Fully Modular Power Supply - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JHRLXWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_D223HHTV9EDCZH01N22T?psc=1
You don't need that. There are really good web based CAD softwares like TinkerCAD. And even for most CAD software 32GB of RAM I'd think is overkill. Even AutoCAD recommends just 16GB.
I went with this Samsung ssd for my build and I have no complaint. And it’s almost 1/3 the price for the same capacity. Samsung ssd 500gb
Voici un bon refroidisseur pour votre système, devrait bien fonctionner pour un bon prix
In English, that means
Here is a good cooler for your system, should work well for a good price
Jokes aside, the Mugen should work just fine for the 3700X and keep it cool
Well, in the case of a literal white one, can't really find one that'd be in your price range since that's more of a rarity than something common
There is a 144hz 24" 1080p IPS MSI Monitor that would pair very well with the system though
I have no clue how I ended up in this subreddit but I'll just answer anyway cause I'm bored
If your board doesn't have a USB-C header, you can always just buy an adapter to make it work, perhaps a USB 3.0 to USB-C one if that's your tea
Build looks clean but yeah GPU prices are inflated right now. So wait until the crypto craze dies down you could look at some second hand cards for a better price (or buy new at regular MSRP). Also you could save some money on Microsoft 10 by buying it on a key vendor site like kinguin.com
First you should find out what kind of RAM your computer has.
To do this, run a utility called CPU-Z:
https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html
What you want to look at is the "Mainboard" tab. The "Model" will tell you what you have for a board and you can use Google to find out more about it, especially the maximum memory it will support.
Then the "Memory" tab will tell you what type you have. Likely DDR3 or DDR4.
Once you know that you can then narrow down how you will upgrade, by checking the "SPD" tab. Slots that are empty will show no readouts. Slots that are full will have readouts. You should then attempt to match the new memory to the specifications of your existing memory to make it as easy as possible to enjoy the benefits of more RAM :)
You can move your windows installation to the new ssd. Then remove it from the hard disk which you can keep around for extra storage.
GPU sag is a common issue.
Many people buy GPU brackets or supports to help prevent this.
Brackets come in all price ranges, but for example, this is the one I have.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0896G6HSC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_E3KYR28BYDHAR1TXEZT3
These are the best motherboards I could find that weren't incredibly expensive. Another thing to note is that you need to be careful about making sure the motherboard is 5000 ready, as far as I'm aware there isn't a way to check before getting the motherboard. If i remember right your getting a 5600x or a 5800x, in case you don't get a board that's already been made 5000 ready you should search up yourself how to change it to be able to, YouTube is perfectly fine. It's not difficult either it's just an added thing to do don't worry.
soo i have 2 hard drives:
Seagate Exos 7E8 8TB Internal Hard Drive HDD – 3.5 Inch 6Gb/s 7200 RPM 256 MB Cache for Enterprise, Data Center – Frustration Free Packaging (ST8000NM0055) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D9625PB/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_2W1R53D3MS51JC5PHYME?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Seagate BarraCuda 2TB Internal Hard Drive HDD – 3.5 Inch SATA 6Gb/s 7200 RPM 256MB Cache 3.5-Inch – Frustration Free Packaging (ST2000DM008/ST2000DMZ08) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H2RR55Q/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_SVXN7HGK7JWH3SN274E0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I am willing to bet its the 8TB one thats doing this. because the 2TB one is much newer and the noise was there before. someone told me its just the noise hard drives make, but its loud...
i just replaced my AOC Agon 27" 1440P 165hz. its a very good monitor for a good price.
was the older version of this one.
Currently, use the Asus Strix xg279q 1440p 170 hz oc
Very nice monitor, extremely beautiful display.
I would recommend it.
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-XG279Q-Compatible-DisplayHDR-DisplayPort/dp/B083Z8JXW6
https://www.amazon.com/Trefc-Stackable-Bitcoin-Motherboard-Frame-Rack/dp/B08XY2LD5M
This.
I mean if you dont have abunch of kids or pets do this , put it on the wall by the ac vent lolol
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07Z1W8Y16/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
this is the card i bought a few months ago, runs well, havnt had any problems with it, my router is downstairs and it maintains as close to perfect speeds as you are likely to get
I built about the same thing. I've got an old 2GB video card. While you could save money on the processor for a higher end GPU, the truth is that you won't find any GPUs anyway. For about $20 more you can get a 500GB nvme. I'm pretty happy with this one https://www.amazon.com/Blue-SN550-500GB-NVMe-Internal/dp/B07YFF3JCN/ref=sxts_rp_s1_0?cv_ct_cx=nvme&dchild=1&keywords=nvme&pd_rd_i=B07YFF3JCN&pd_rd_r=3c534645-55ee-4a3b-b1cd-59fff04cf9a6&pd_rd_w=UFa1v&pd_rd_wg=c9S5A&pf_rd_p=f99754cc-0195-4f26-b585-4ddc29d85a2d&pf_rd_r=ZDYDQCJW6BZQK1ZG1REE&psc=1&qid=1630076880&sr=1-1-f0029781-b79b-4b60-9cb0-eeda4dea34d6
twice the storage is nice AND it boots up instantly.
I don’t have any SATA devices. This is my first build though, could that be any of the case plugs? Or fan controller plug?
And this is the drive i’m using
WD_BLACK 1TB SN750 NVMe Internal Gaming SSD Solid State Drive - Gen3 PCIe, M.2 2280, 3D NAND, Up to 3,470 MB/s - WDS100T3X0C https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M64QXMN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0XXFN3XRFJ8TQP036C0G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I’m not talking about a tank and shit like that, I’m talking about a liquid fans with a radiator like this
Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML240L RGB V2, Close-Loop AIO CPU Liquid Cooler, 240 Radiator, Dual SickleFlow 120mm, RGB Lighting, 3rd Gen Dual Chamber Pump for AMD Ryzen/Intel LGA1151 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086BYYFG5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8T48BDFJ1KSW8CKHYS0C
Thermal Grizzly Hydronaut - Conductive, High Performance Thermal Paste - Extensive for air cooling systems, water cooling, for all heatsinks CPU and GPU https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017SBFHGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_F01KJKD7WPQG8HHWHQSC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Dell S2421HGF 24 Inch FHD TN, Anti-Glare Gaming Monitor - 1ms Response Time, 1080p 144Hz, LED Edgelight System, AMD FreeSync Premium, VESA, Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089T73ZB9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_EE5NAXAS9X3EPT4ZPJ40
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07P689CXR?tag=userbenchmark-21&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1probably the best for your money in the "new market" atm but I would still wait a few months to buy one, as its not really much of an upgrade. like 10-20 fps more
You may have thermally activated fans (only spin up when temps reach a certain range).
What motherboard and where are the fans physically connected right now?
And as an alternative if you want to avoid the motherboard and dynamic fan controls completely, you can just use a SATA or Molex to Fan adapter like so :
It will just run the fans at nominal speed 100% of the time.
I recently took an old HP and put it inside a corsair case- it was on sale when i bought it
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RORBQNW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
only paid $35 for it but i had the power button broken like yours and was just using a small bic pen top to push the internal button but when considering i have 5 kids i wanted it easier for them to use it.
For those saying " are you sure you want to keep the old pc " remember the prices of current hardware and you would be amazed how much these older HP pc's are going for used.
I 've seen them local for $150-350 depending on the model but still there's value in it even if we are so use to faster pc's some people have no pc.
Here is a good one I might suggest then. Had plenty of good reviews for OC, and would operate quite nicely: https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Gaming-Motherboard-Socket-Triple/dp/B0876GSMZB/ref=sr_1_17?crid=14DGFX588EKE7&dchild=1&keywords=z490+motherboard&qid=1622473830&sprefix=z490%2Caps%2C147&sr=8-17
It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users. I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!
Here is link number 1 - Previous text "ram"
^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete
would this ram be better? ram
also, how about some more specific links to/names of some good cases that fit the hardware?
thanks for your advice. my only other resources are my friend who has built one before.
Don't overthink it. Unless you're really trying to maximize your system and you don't care about the budget, I would just find a recognized brand at a decent price. The last two SSDs I bought were ADATAs.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01K8A29E6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_i_FB0N6NT4WCV0RWJNPM62
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This has a 1650 in it so the light gaming will be great on it. It does only have 8gb ram, I’d skip it if whatever you program with requires more. If you don’t need more ram though it wouldn’t be bad. Most laptops that handle gaming tend to not last long without being plugged in- so if you’re wanted a long battery life because you can’t plug it in for travel this may not be a good choice. However, at that budget this one is pretty great if it’s available near you!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VCNTRG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_Z3WV535MVDJNEPBBMP8G