I got the idea from Odd Tinkering YT after he cleaned the plastic on a GameCube.
QUIXX 10003 Acrylic Scratch Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CU6UTNA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It won’t get deep scratches but it’s a start. It comes with 1500 grit sandpaper but I don’t recommend hitting it with that since it seems to effect it more.
The only unopened pack I could find in this last 5 minutes is this one on Amazon, one left and it's 50 bucks. On eBay I found one blue, used, for 20 bucks. If you sell them for 35 USD I honestly think they'll be sold in a matter of days. If you do so and earn some money I wouldn't mind if you want to send one for me in Argentina as a gratitude :3
I got the idea from Odd Tinkering’s YT after he cleaned the plastic on a GameCube.
QUIXX 10003 Acrylic Scratch Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CU6UTNA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It won’t get deep scratches but I’m impressed how much it did cover.
No, if you check the git page, the latest devoloper build was uploaded yesterday.
Also PCSX2 runs fairly well on my five year old 7950.. so the problem isn't your graphics card.
Have a look at the Brook PS2 super converter. It lets you use Switch Pro, Xbox One, PS3, PS4 and PS5 controllers wirelessly on the PS2. Here is a link to it on amazon but it may be available elsewhere. https://www.amazon.de/dp/B075462YRF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_2NRDQQG8C98GE02MJMDP
There's Play! too. Basically you won't be able to play much of anything for ps2 except for very basic games on Play! but it is making good improvements and if you wanted a good ps2 emulator supporting it through paypal or patreon would make sense. https://purei.org/about.php
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.virtualapplications.play
Damon Ps2 is stolen code with speedhacks so it doesn't actually run most things well either though some things run it shouldn't be supported.
Neoteck PS2 to HDMI Converter Adapter with 3.5mm Headphone Audio Jack Compatible with Sony Playstation 2, for PS2 HDTV HDMI Monitor, with 3 Feet HDMI Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KW4GL57/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_HDWJ2NKCH00J79PPNM1X
i’m using this one, it needs to be powered with a usb cable. it also has a headphone jack which is amazing.
The Logitech wireless PS2 controllers are widely considered to be the best wireless controller made for the PS2 but they've gotten pretty expensive on the second hand market.
I picked up a couple of these off of amazon, they definitely feel kind of cheap but they don't seem lagy, hard to beat the price too.
Here is the dumping tool. And here is a step by step tutorial.
You don't have to down vote an answer you don't like. You came here asking us for help. I found all this info in a 5 second Google search. You'd be wise to do this kind of thing for yourself before "asking" for help from people who are going to tell you the truth no matter how many times you say "don't just tell me to download a BIOS", even though that's your fastest solution. Sheesh.
This is the one I ordered a few days ago Component to HDMI Converter YPbPr to HDMI Converter Support 720P/ 1080P for HD TV, DVD Player, Blu-ray Player, Wii, PS2/PS3, Xbox 360, Original Xbox and More (with HDMI Cable) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TYBLFYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_M59QCVFAZE4159W3S50T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Also, HD Retrovision cables are excellent if you catch them in stock. I was originally looking for original PS2/PS3 component but prices were high (and also used), so it was nice to pick the retrovision cables new. They're $30, but worth it for their quality. They do sell out pretty quickly, but are restocked every month or two and also sell on various websites. You could even get a pre-order in to get in on the next batch.
I grabbed one of these and used it with a Dualshock 4 I already had. Works perfectly.
The power cord for the ps2 is the same power cord for most TVs. I use one from an old samsung flat screen. Also you can order a power cord and memory card online. Some good sites for games/accessories are jjgames, Amazon, and estarland
Edit: sorry misread your post but here is a cord that will work on Amazon and here is a PS1 memory card I recommend getting Sony brand cause the generic Chinese ones usually corrupt files
What this guy has is a terrible knockoff converter, cheaply made. You can get them on Amazon, they're sold under dozens of different names and they're all garbage. Go through an Amazon listing for "component to hdmi converter," they all use one of the same few form factors. Here's one that looks the same as the one in the video. The LEDs are in the same place, and they all have this trend of "descriptive text" printed on the chassis.
His commentary on signal quality is valid, but the build quality of that converter has got to be subpar. He touches on a couple of the major issues, they are inflexible (no settings menu) and the upscaler is half-baked. I've owned a couple of these and they're unreliable, inconsistent, and seldom last more than a few months. There are much, much better converters you can get that aren't cookie-cutter Chinese copies of the same product.
A good, cheaper alternative that's not jank as fuck would be a Pound cable. RetroTink, OSSC, or FrameMeister (if you can find one) are also all great.
http://howlongtobeat.com/ will allow you to narrow by platform and then sort by whatever criteria you are interested in. Length to complete a game is always subjective. I find that it takes me more than twice as long as people claim it took them due to the fact that I'm slow and methodical.
Also doesn't help that I'm a completionist.
That's the best way http://pcsx2.net/. There is no guarantee that it'll work as it should - not all games work great with emulation.
BUT due to the rules of the subreddit - I'd suggest to use your original PS2 copy with the emulator :)
All you need is one of these. I have one and it works perfectly. So far ive tested it with my dualshock 3, dualshock 4 and Xbox One controllers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07543W7XS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The ones that convert composite video to HDMI are OK but the picture is still kinda fuzzy. Depends on the size of your TV. I'm using component cables for my PS2 and the picture looks really good.
If you want a budget option something like this isn't too bad:
Hyperkin HDTV Cable for PS2/ PS1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NSTDKHD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SE5Z57DYHA2R058R7HBP
RWA Apex Racing Wheel apparently. Never heard of it myself.
Got lucky with Google image search.
I use this one sometimes along with component cables for my tv that only has hdmi. It hasn't given me any problems at all, but keep in mind that these adapters won't really make the picture look any better. They are more for connecting old consoles to new TV's
There are options for making the picture better, but they're a lot more than $20
I use Novus plastic polish kit. Sometimes I use Brasso beforehand if the scratches are bad enough... Just keep rubbing that stuff in a circular pattern with a rag until the big scratches disappear, then use Novus #3 to start polishing, then Novus #2 for the final polish. Then #1 for a beautiful sheen. I just did that for a GameCube jewel the other day.
Novus: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UCYRZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_FF788FSTH2VD6MYPVZV1
Retrotink Multiformat or OSSC are going to be your best options, unless you can find a very nice discontinued component upscaler like a DVDO or Framemeiser. Rad2x is just a Retrotink on a cable and for the price the Multiformat is a much better deal.
If you want something like a Carby, just get a cheap Component Passthrough that allows 480i/480p and doesn't stretch the image. Carby exists because the digital out for the Gamecube requires a proprietary inline processor. PS2 doesn't have this issue, so connecting straight in is fine. You'll be reliant on your TV to handle the deinterlacing itself which depending on the quality of TV could be nice or a crappy lagfest. If you plan to use GSM to force 480p though this will be cheap and effective.
Here is the one I used personally that passes through with no manipulation of the image like forcing widescreen: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CL1JS54/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I like the scanlines and image smoothing my retrotink pro does however, so I use that instead.
For other options, a backwards compatible PS3 isn't worth the hassle. I have a CECHA01 and get the exact same image quality out of it as I do using the component passthrough but with some optional image smoothing. The Retrotink gives me a better image personally, as I like it softer and the PS3 is quite sharp. They are nifty machines once you put CFW on them and can run your collection off the internal hard drive with virtual memory cards but so can the PS2 itself without the reliability issues.
I bought some Monoprice component cables from Amazon. They have connectors for multiple consoles, and PS2 is one of them. I haven't had any issues with video quality.
The Logitech Cordless Action controller is, hands down, the best third-party controller. I got mine used at a local game shop for $20. Here's the Amazon listing, but paying $100 for this hardware would be pure folly. Find it on eBay or at a local store.
I would love to find a Katana Wireless Force 2 controller for cheap somewhere. It's got a coolness factor purely because it's the only third-party controller officially licensed by Sony, but in all honesty the Logitech is probably better. Again, here's the Amazon listing but paying $130 for such an item is not advisable.
Disclaimer: Amazon links provided are not intended to violate rule #2, but rather as a way to provide information about the products in question. These listings are publicly available to anyone and the ridiculously high prices make actually purchasing items from said listings quite impractical (though certainly still possible).
I purchased this component cable from Amazon a while back. It was pretty cheap, but the cables are good quality and the image improvements were absolutely worth it.
If you're looking for a SATA adapter, this is the best one you can get: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H7R3XDY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2TB HDD will only cost you $55 and you can fit a good chunk of the US library on a single drive.
The picture is going to be pretty bad with any composite to HDMI converter.
This one is pretty decent for a less expensive option and it let's you take advantage of the PS2 component output for a better picture.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083RY5NZH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_btf_t1_6WfsFbK09NWND
PS2 Network Adapter SATA Upgrade Kit for Official Adaptor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H7R3XDY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.rLHCbMFP3AQ7 that and a 2.5 inch sata drive and you will be fine. If you dont want to go IDE
Here's my belief-
A PS2 game should be $15 and under, on average, except for special circumstances. There are a few things that can (IMO) affect the price; condition of the cover art and manual, limited/greatest hits/standard version, and rarity. Above all else it comes down to how much I want it, and how much I could get it for online.
When out in the field, I use this app exclusively. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.jgrue.vgpc&hl=en It'll show you how much you should pay for a game, and how much you could get it for off of Amazon.
But realistically, it all depends on how much you'd want it. Ico is tough because it's hard to find in the wild in good condition, in most places, same for FF9 (at least to find a non-greatest hits). In general, the four games you named, none of them should be over $15, otherwise you could just amazon them.
But now, if you're trying to make friends with a retro store owner, sometimes you have to pay a bit more.
You have a few choices:
1) New memory card
2)There's a Holiday 2004 Demo Disk which would format the mem card by a glitch
3) Install Free McBoot, on the installer you'll have a choice to format your memory card too. But if you got this far you might as well install it.
For SATA, you just need a 3rd party HDD adapter, bit expensive than classic IDE HDD adapter but useful for modern HDDs. You can check it out here below...
One more thing, if you already have a HDD adapter with IDE port on it, avoid using IDE to SATA converters. They might work on HD Loader but makes the game unplayable which turns a black screen after that.
Well both of mine still work, both fatties and one is from launch. I use one for Swap Magic and the other one is just there, so if you can get one cheap enough that's in good nick then go for it!
I probably would suggest that due to the age of the console and the games maybe start moving to emulator territory. If you have a good PC system then you should be able to run most games without a problem. I've just started using http://pcsx2.net and it's awesome as you can run your games from your DVD drive! I've also started ripping my collection to try and preserve them all too.
Just set up a PS3 controller with your PC or get a PS2 like controller and it feels good and natural :)
http://www.dx.com/p/plastic-memory-card-for-ps2-black-64mb-275919 $4.44 with free shipping. Keep in mind, it is a cheap chinese knock-off card, so the chances of it malfunctioning are higher than a legit one. I've had mine for a few years though without problem, other than it takes a couple extra seconds to save/load.
Try using the open source program 'Burn' instead of Apple's Disk Utility.
http://burn-osx.sourceforge.net/Pages/English/home.html
I wouldn't be surprised if Disk Utility was just putting that iso file onto the DVD, rather than burning it as that ISO.
Disk read issues come up a lot, I fixed mine by relubricating the rails which the laser moves on.
I've posted about this before here. It's a long post but I hope you find it useful.
You're welcome. Don't eat your mic and turn it down. Keep all audio out of the red to start with.
Grab Audacity and learn how your mic sounds when you talk into it. Record, and play back.
It's a great tool, it can capture all the sound (monitor) path.
Yes it is really moving! This is running on an android.
It's possible with this live wallpaper right here!
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.phardera.ps2clock&hl=en_US&gl=US
This is also available for pc too! But you will need wallpaper engine for that.
As for raspberry pi, I do not know if anyone has recreated this on that platform.
More than happy to help. It's not very difficult there are plenty of resources. I've done it for a few of my friends now
Here's a high level of what you will need
Free mcboot memory card (find one on Amazon for about 13 bucks) A network adapter (sata interface): here's a link to one: https://www.amazon.com/RGEEK-SATA-Connector-Socket-Playstation/dp/B07JFPSZJP/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=ps2+network+adapter&qid=1626196103&sprefix=PS2+net&sr=8-3
You will also need a hard drive. I recommend any Western Digital drives (can get a 500gb one for relatively cheap). And a SATA to USB adapter to set up the drive on your machine.
Here's a YouTube video for setting it all up https://youtu.be/tvEySPbWxZc
I've done this plenty of times if you need help feel free the message me at any point and I'd do my best to assist. I love this stuff lol
E-SDS 8-Way AV Switch RCA Switcher 8 in 1 Out Composite Video L/R Audio Selector Box for DVD STB Game Consoles CV0235 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0154QWCM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_YCFPT8AA1F5B9JNGQXEW
Slightly different brand but the box looks identical. Inexpensive and works pretty well
Thanks for the response, I'm assuming this one I ordered wouldn't support it then?
What about USB wireless adapters?
Sent you a private message with the link, hopefuly it works and I will leave it here again.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ATNIFPA/ref=twister_B08HNF9L9W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Its between it and Pound since those 2 are the only devices I can afford, Portta is more expensive yet fine as long as it can fix the PS2 displaying that menu 480i on my 1080p monitor.
I thought that was 1080i. Also I’m in a PAL region with PAL console and games, no modchips installed. I have a Sony X900F 4K TV and I don’t want to use any cheap upscaling adapters and I don’t have the cash to buy actual retro improvement adapters. My plan is to use an adapter like this to connect both my GameCube and PS2 to my TV as it only has that yellow AV IN port. The TV manual recommends an adapter like that, although I don’t know if this specific one will work. I was wondering if using an original AV cable would improve anything like Nintendo folks recommend.
I just bought this controller and got it yesterday and it works good. I played some Auto Modellista and Beyond Good & Evil and everything was good. The D-pad and the buttons are a little loose but the analog sticks are tight and accurate. I checked out the calibration on my computer and it shows that the analog sticks are accurate and they center perfectly.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTH99V4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you mean these:
They will not work since they dont fit and are not made for ps2.
The IDE to SATA upgrade like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Y5DPDQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_QAX046F4G1VP4HQBWC93
Are made to replace the IDE part in the Official PS2 network adaptor. So they do work
This is what I use for GameCube and PSP at the moment:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Cable-Adapter-Component-HD15CPNTMF/dp/B00213KFHW
I use it to send YPbPr signals to the monitor, but you can also send the PS2’s 31KHz RGB signal through it. I’ve had no problems with it. Just be aware that it is passive. It won’t convert anything. Your monitor still needs to support YPbPr or sync on green 31KHz RGB.
I guess you could bypass the TV completely with a little box that convert the digital out sound to analog.
Like this: https://www.amazon.com/ROOFULL-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Optical/dp/B07142SV1D
Or that (with volume adjustment): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08GX3PP15
​
The purple PCB is known to have issues, that's why the green one is the one to go. Sure, they may be a bit more expensive, but at least they're guaranteed to work.
I got some of these on amazon and they have worked flawlessly and are still going strong today, can’t recommend them enough tbh! Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07737GTT6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_b87WFbYCW6WM0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
if you have a new TV first check to make sure that it doesn't have the AV ports that you need, most still have those ones. if you don't have them, just get something similar to this:
get a HDMI cable, and hook the one end up to your TV, the other end to the adaptor, which is in your ps2. badda-bing, badda-boom, you've got your ps2 plugged in.
​
now to get some games... (i recommend the ratchet and clank series, as well as James Bond: Everything or Nothing. both games are straight fire)
I have two 32mb Max Memory cards that work great that I've had for a long time. This is what they look like. They also work fine with Funtuna if you want to use them for homebrew.
Just get a component/composite to hdmi converter. Best option is amazon or monoprice. Just know that the image quality from the PS2 isn't going to be great since the output has always been a little muddy which CRTs helped to hide. If your TV has a Ypbpr option it should have the port, is there any kind of panel it could be hidden under? This is the one I bought and it works well for me.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AA8FVSW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
amazon.co.jp - Most games are under 1000 yenners.
Go to a convenience store and exchange cash for an Amazon gift card. Use the gift card to buy any game you want.
Fun fact: "Shadow of the Colossus" is called "Wander and the Colossus" in Japan. It's also really expensive for some reason. Ico can be had for cheap. Also Lara Croft had a different name on the back of the PSX case, IIRC.
My shopping cart includes Kuon and Strawberry Marshmallow
a/s/l?
You can get it on Amazon, but I bought mine when I worked for Nintendo.
I would recommend these cables. They were recently added to the amazon store.
They're KMD Wireless Shockwave controllers. They're on Amazon. Those are $25 but I got mine from a local game store for $20 so you might want to check around. I haven't had a chance to try them out yet but they feel solid. The buttons are a little stiff but I think once they get broken in they'll be fine.
It's pretty easy. I bought a SATA dual bay adapter with an inbuilt copy function from amazon:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01KWQ8WFG/
Put two drives in there, pressed the button and after an hour I had upgraded from 500GB to 1.5TB.
There are a few games that you can play online with custom servers, so that is a cool feature. And, while being able to network with your computer to transfer data is useful, it's also really slow. I do use it though, if I want to transfer a single game or play a movie off the network.
But, connecting the drive via sata-usb 3.0 cable is significantly faster, and is how I transferred 2TB of games over to it. I think the reason they remove it is because more people want to plug a HDD into their PS2 to play backups than want to play online PS2 multiplayer via Xlink-Kai, and to obviously make it cheaper.
If you want both features you have to buy this thing:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H7R3XDY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They're only worth it if you're short on cash and have no other options. If your TV has component ports, just get a good component cable.
Buy this: Gam3Gear Component AV Audio Video Cable for PS3 PS2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005MDZD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1mesFbQ7CNH0R
And this: YPbPr to HDMI Converter, Component to HDMI, RGB to HDMI Converter Supports 4K Video Audio Converter Adapter HDMI V1.4 for DVD PSP Xbox 360 PS2 Nintendo to HDTV Monitor and Projector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JCDR32J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vlesFbA0GHNNH
There's usually 2 jacks on TVs like this. You need something like this - https://www.amazon.com/LG-EAD61273106-Cable-Composite/dp/B00L9I984G - to get the white and red audio input that you're missing.
If you have component YPbPr inputs on your TV, use component cables. If you don't have those inputs, the Kaico HDMI adapter is very good at about $35, but it doesn't support PS1 games. If you want PS1 support as well as PS2, then you need component cables AND something like this scaler. You could also use a YPbPr to HDMI transcoder/converter, but your TV would need to support 240p over HDMI - some do and some don't. RetroTink is an option, but it isn't really designed for the PS2 and costs about $130. It gives some flicker, but works great for 240p PS1 games.
Highly recommend getting this Sata HDD adapter upgrade as it allows you to keep network support while using a HDD up to 2TB for playing games on OPL
Sorry, I missed that you're using an HDMI converter. You're going to need an HDMI capture device instead, then. This is about the cheapest one I'm aware of, though I can't personally attest to its quality.
Don't use passive Y-splitters for video signals. It's bad for video quality and potentially bad for the console. Use a proper distribution amplifier like this one.
What you want is a switch. There are lots of cheap mechanical composite video switches on Amazon, and some for component video as well.
I recently got them and have had zero issues. I still get to play PS2 games but with official wireless controllers. best of both worlds. Amazon has the newer models for ~$40. I have one and they’re identical to the older model.
I bought a cheap little set up off amazon and I'm very happy with the result. I gave up looking for good cables when no where would ship to the UK without asking for obscene amounts of money.
Here's my two purchases. I bought them at the recommendation of another brit here on r/ps2 and after 6 months of use I'm very happy with the results. Here's the links : this And this
According to the specifications for your monitor the minimum horizontal scan rate is 30kHz. A standard-definition signal (480i/576i/240p/288p) is roughly 15kHz which is below what your monitor supports, unfortunately. If you're converting from standard-definition content then you'll need to use some sort of scan doubler or upscaler to bring the signal into a format your monitor can handle (the equivalent product to the one you bought is labelled RGB to HDMI scaler).
Check the reviews for whichever upscalers you look at as there's normally a trade-off between picture quality and input lag. Cheaper units usually produce better-looking results at the expense of making you feel like a drunk when you're playing them. Devices with lower input lag that are geared more towards gaming (such as the Framemeister, OSSC and RetroTINK-2X) tend to command a much higher price, unfortunately.
If you have rca cables (yellow for video, red and white for stereo audio), try getting one of these to connect to your monitor. You will need something for audio though so maybe a pair of cheap speakers to go with it. To convert to a 3.5mm headphone jack youll also need one of these. This is pretty much my setup right now.
I believe I've found what you need: http://www.amazon.com/PlayStation-2-Multitap/dp/B00066LGEM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1250452725&sr=8-1
Now from what I understand they both are ALMOST identical except for the distance from the memory card slot and the controller port. The Fat compatible ones have the extended memory where the slim ones are more even in distance. The link is for reference pictures only, as I think that price is outrageous but hopefully it will help you when you're trying to find one at a good price. Sorry if this info is kinda confusing, it was all I could find on the subject.
Edit: a word.
I recently was looking for a set of wireless controllers as well, OP. I thought about purchasing the ones you linked, but decided against it as I've had had some bad experiences with some of these knockoffs on ebay. I ordered wired controller that was so poorly manufactured that it fell apart in my hands 15 minutes after unpacking it. Some people on youtube seem to swear by the ones you linked though, so maybe it depends on who makes them. Sony actually licensed these and they have great reviews, but are super expensive. http://www.amazon.com/Officially-Licensed-Wireless-Controller-Playstation-2/dp/B000WE8JCA In the end, I settled on a pair of Logitech Cordless Action controllers which have worked out pretty well.
I purchased this one about a month or so ago to play games on my PC monitor. It's pretty solid, however the ratio is displayed at 4:3 and the image quality isn't the greatest. If this doesn't bother you, in the absence of component cables/ports, it's worth it.
Pick one of these up and you can easily hook a new 2.5" SATA HDD in your fat PS2. I put a 1TB into both my PS2 and OG XBOX using this adapter.
StarTech.com 2.5 Inch and 3.5 Inch 40 P Inch Male IDE to SATA Adapter Converter (IDE2SAT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ZLM9IA/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_gPa2ub0GVG7Z4
It's called 'Video Games Manager' Link on the Android Store. It's alright. It seems to do the job for me. It can get a bit slow at times but I suppose thats to be expected with the size of my collection (2700ish). It has the benefit of being able to store your list of games in the cloud and on the device.
I've been trying to softmod the PS2 to run NES, PS1 and PS2 games from the HDD and been successful so far, until I wanted to copy the backup of Tekken 2 onto the HDD. It was really slow via USB stick so I decided to use my USB-SATA adapter. Set everything up but then no drive popped up. Plugged the HDD back into the PS2 to see what's up and it was completely wiped, unformatted. And it wasn't the first time, it keeps happening every single time i try to connect the HDD to my laptop through this adapter. What's going wrong here? Am I doing something wrong? I have a feeling that it shouldn't happen, because this way you have only one chance to set up your HDD with games etc. or else this will happen to you. What's the solution here? The HDD is a WD10EZEX and the adapter is the following:
Have you tried wiping everything down with a damp cloth? Dust in the environment can get into electronic devices and prevent them from working properly.
You can also buy cd cleaners, something like this https://www.amazon.com/Maxell-Effective-Feature-Station-190048/dp/B000001OM5/
Also I haven't used burned discs but have read on here they should be burned at 4x speed, I think because the PS2 reads at that speed, although others say it shouldn't really matter with modern writers.
It's probably just a duff disc and you should ask for a replacement.
HD Cable for Playstation 2 &... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08R1JH5NN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I use this which connect to analog on the console and other end is hdmi, works so well that use it on both ps2 and ps1, also has a 4:3 or 16:9 switch but honestly looks better on standard 4:3
It’s awesome and included all cable but it has to be powered by for example a usb on to
Been using this for a few months and the SD card came packed with games. https://www.amazon.com/RGEEK-Memory-Adapter-Playstation-Versions/dp/B0B3DDPN3W?th=1
It's a no-name brand from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Adapter-Monitor-Supports-Display/dp/B07FCYLVVY
The only problem is if you have a fat PS2, you can't stand it up vertically because the power cord for the adapter comes out the bottom and there isn't enough room to bend it out of the way.
Of course! I've also messaged some super old threads hoping to get more info and people have always gladly helped me so least I can do is pay it forward.
I used this vga to component cable and it works great.
When I was gaming on my 4k gaming monitor I was using the MClassic a good bit cause I enjoyed what it had to offer for the ps2 mainly when combined with the gbs-c using motion adaptive deinterlacing. However, ever since I got my LG OLED 65" I haven't liked at all what the MClassic does to the colors. The OLED just has such a beautiful and pure picture when used with the OSSC any additional "filters" just became too noticeable. Though I must reiterate that I used and enjoyed my MClassic a lot before my OLED.
Still hoping to snag an OSSC Pro that has the built in motion adaptive deinterlacing cause while the gbs-c with the OSSSC is great, having another converter in the chain adds a tiny bit of noise plus the image is a tad dark with my gbs-c. I can tune the brightness through gbs-c but it still isn't perfect and my crt tv looks a little better still when it comes to the ps2. Otherwise all of my retro consoles absolutely shine when hooked up to my OLED through the OSSC.
Sorry to revive an old thread, I was wondering if someone could help. I have an SCART cable in hand and bought another one from retroaccess, and I was wondering if using SCART from PS2 to GBS-C instead of a component cable would work just fine(I read OP used component from PS2 to gbs-c but took the audio part from the component straight to the OSSC which I cannot do using SCART), in a nutshell I'm planing to do: PS2->SCART->GBS-C->vga2Component->OSSC->HDMI->TV I wonder if the vga2component would give me audio on the OSSC. I really don't want to have to buy yet another expensive cable (a component one) since I already have a good SCART and a better one on its way. I'd rather buy a vga2component cable (a link to a decent one would be appreciated) or something like this vga to vga with audio if it works without issues: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Audio-Monitor-Stereo/dp/B00KCUU6KC/ This is the GBS-C I'm planning to buy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B4B2CM9F/ref=ewc\_pr\_img\_1?smid=A263LSCPZJCHO0&psc=1. Thanks.
I came across one of these recently they are pretty neat.
I ended up buying an (Xbox 360/Xbox One compatible Official Mortal Kombat X Fight pad)[https://www.amazon.com/Mortal-Kombat-Fight-Pad-Xbox-One/dp/B00RYW3FF4]
Well I just play ESR burned discs on my PS2 Slim. Get yourself a 50 pack of Glossy Printable DVD blanks from here
I know it's cool to have a fat PS2 with the games on the hard disk drive but I personally love how tiny a PS2 Slim is and I can't stand the ugly appearance of the Network Adapter that sticks out past the body of the console like a tumor.
I am sorry for you loss.
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You need this tool to fix the disc: https://www.amazon.com/SkipDr-Manual-Disc-Repair-System/dp/B0015ACUKC/ref=sr\_1\_4?keywords=CD+Scratch+Remover&qid=1668240742&sr=8-4
This is what I got on mine. They're well made and worth the price.
Few months ago, i did read that some of those cheap "PS2 to HDMI" adapters could cause some image glitching.
I suspect mine is one of them, but i cannot confirm by any other source on the internet.
I canot find the original post nor a video talking about that, nor a quality demo video that display this same issue.
Do you guys get the same image issues?
If not, what is the model you bought?
mine is: PS2 to HDMI
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Thanks in advance!
I ordered this to protect my dvd case games, $25 for 1000. They almost fit perfectly. can be left as is for a looser fit, however I like to use some tape and get a nice fit and shelf them after I rip the ISO to my HDD.
https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B07HRQ81TY/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A3THIYJHMVVHCP&psc=1 was thinking of buyng this
its loud enough to be heard. I have one.
Get a noctua fan mod if you want silent operation. Its really silent even at full speed.
Be extremely careful with the fan connector to the motherboard its small and can be EASILY broken off. I had to buy a 4pin to usb adapter to connect it to the front usb port to keep the fan on.
You can get audio out from toslink output. Hook it up to anything convinient to you, like Bluetooth transmitter for example. I'm using this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Isobel-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Wireless-Simultaneously-Black/dp/B08ZD1F1H9 Powering it from USB port in PS2
I think you're looking for an HDMI audio splitter like this one on Amazon I haven't used this device, it's not a recommendation. It's an example of the type of product I think you're looking for.
Connect it to a component to hdmi converter/upscaler and then connect the hdmi to this switcher! Hdmi Switcher: 4K HDR HDMI Switch, Koopman 5... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0837K31GX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share its the only one ive found to work well with the mclassic! It keeps both audio and video quality!
Not an expert on those, I stick to my AV cables, consult Youtube.
Also, I forgot to mention that the Hyperkin which does not give the best picture it is the best hassle free option as well.
should've clarified, i just replaced the analog stick covers not the analog sticks themselves, but i used these from amazon
these are surprisingly good quality for the price. while they don't feel exactly like oem, they don't feel lower quality, just slightly different texture