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Hit it against the end grain of a block of hardwood. It will take fewer blows.

Use a gravy separator to catch the bullet and powder easily.

They're called Really Useful Box. Used to find them in Office Max but you might have to buy direct from the UK now. The 2.1L size in this photo holds just about 500 pieces of 9mm brass.

EDIT: Amazon has them, but not in this smoke color I used to buy - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N8Z4DX4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_VS2rDbMVT4BGJ

My advice, stop right now. Its done. You don't have the tools to extract that case right now.

Get a stuck case remover, I've used the RCBS Stuck Case Remover 2 with my dies, or ones where the decapping stem and expander ball are removed from the top. With the kit, there's a threaded hex nut that will thread onto your stem, allowing you to back out the expander ball from the neck, and remove the stem. The remaining parts of the kit are used to tap out the stuck case. Don't whale on it, just tap-tap-tap-tap-tap until it starts to move, then it'll come on out.

The more expensive kit, does it with a wider variety of die sets

I know everyone's process is different, but I use small trash cans, like this, from Walmart. For triming or measuring, just fill one can with shells, do your thing, and throw it in the other can. I usually have a "to small", "good", and "needs to be trimmed more" can. This works well while watching a movie I've already seen.

On the press, dump a few hundred rounds into some Tupperware or bread pans (wife was not pleased, buy your own), and a trash can under the press. I just push each round out of the press with my fingers and it falls down into the can. I have plastic drawers that I label and throw unfinished ammo into if I need to stop mid point.

I've been tempted to make a net mounted to my bench so it's quieter (bench is in my bedroom, live in a condo).

Its decent. The ones published by the bullet manufacturers tend to have their bullets listed exclusively. That's not a bad thing, I shoot a bunch of Hornady.
I have a bunch of manuals, and online sources, but if I had to pick one printed manual, it would be the Lyman 50th edition manual

Those are crimps, be sure to remove them before trying to reload.

You can use a swage tool to remove them, or use a countersink bit or a crimp remover like what RCBS has.

So when I was doing my podcast there was an episode on this: https://www.podomatic.com/podcasts/reloadingragchew/episodes/2018-04-17T05_20_24-07_00

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Really when you get down to it very very few kaboom moments are from people pushing the edge or "bubba's pissin hot handloads" most come down to:

1. Double charge - pretty much exclusive to pistols, can be avoided by using a powder with at least 40-50% fill and very good lighting around your press
2. Pistol Powder in rifle\too fast powder in magnum - Can usually be avoided by following the only have 1 powder out at at time and double check the label
3. Bore obstruction - Good press lighting can help prevent a no charge, proper crimp in revolvers, paying F*#@$()#$ attention when you are shooting and something sounds different
4. Bullet setback - again proper crimp (and testing)
5. Powder specific issues - eg free space with h110, blue dot and its random issues on 10mm

All but the last of these are fairly easy to avoid, but nearly all of them can be easily missed when you get lazy and complacent. AND STOP RECOMMENDING TITEGROUP TO NEW RELOADERS (Not saying that the op is new, but this bugs the daylights out of me)

1. But a manual, I suggest this one

2. Read the first 1/3 twice.

3. Go to the Hogdgon website

Keep your AR brass separate from your bolt brass . If you do mix brass you may notice sometimes the bolt is harder to close with some rounds . Those will be the AR brass . I use a small base 223 die to size AR stuff with and a regular for my bolt gun. https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Remington-11103-2-Die-Small/dp/B000N8LIOQ

Get yourself some Imperial case lube. Put a small amount on the inside of the neck with a cotton swap. Do this on say, every 5 cases. Problem solved.

So as I get older it seems like I benefit from specific task lighting. I found a specific product on Amazon and had considered purchasing this.

KMS Squared UFO LM Reloading Press Light for Lee Loadmaster.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079P855ZN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8hSwFbVQT6310

However it wasn’t designed for the Hornady LNL and it’s $32.

Looking for other options I discovered Halo lights for cars. I’m not really sure why they are needed for cars but they come in multiple sizes from 60mm to 120mm diameter, which means you could probably find the right size for just about any press. It’s also 1/6th the price you get 2 for $12.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CJKXFJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fqSwFb24DBACG

It does not come with a power supply but it’s 12v 300mh so just about any old 12 power supply will work.

It’s a huge difference.

Hopefully someone else finds this useful.

This walnut media for pet bedding is way cheaper, and just as effective as the stuff they market towards reloaders, and this is a good auto off timer, because everyone forgets eventually

I bought my caldwell and its treated me just fine over the past couple years. Couple quality of life additions would be a sturdy tripod (don't get the $10 amazon chineese specials, step up to the $25 chineese specials, at least) and a set of rechargeable 9v batteries. These things hate low battery conditions. It doesn't chew up the 9v batteries, but by the time you've gone through 4 of them, or so, its break-even on a 9v set with charger.

Calibrate every time, always let it warm up for 20 minutes before use, label what powder you have in it, and:

One of these will give you more consistent voltage, which means less overcharges: TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 6000mAh/5V 12000mAh DC Output Lithium Ion Battery Pack for LED Strip and CCTV Camera, Portable Li-ion Battery Bank with Charger, Black (Multi-led Indicator) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_b47CFbX63JM7K

This also help metering: https://mkmachining.com/product/rcbs-chargemaster-antistatic-straw/

Then get a second one to speed it all up :P

I would say it costs more time but not more effort, at least not with my process. For my dry tumbling I use a Lyman 2500 Pro Magnum Auto Flo Tumbler, it has about half the case capacity as my home made wet tumbler which cost roughly the same to build.

For both methods the beginning is the same add polish or soap to the media, add cases, close up, and turn on.

For dry process when you are done you have to sift out the media from the brass by some method and I always used the RCBS rotary media separator. With the dry there are always bits of media stuck in the flash holes of anywhere from 10-20% of the cases so I had to inspect each case and poke out any media with a toothpick before they were ready for priming.

For my wet process I figured out that I can use the exact same RCBS rotary media separator very very effectively as long as you fill the media catch bucket underneath with water as well. Trying to get half wet pins out of cases is frustrating so people either oven dry first then tumble them out or my method which is keep everything wet and use the rotary media separator to "wash" the pins out. It takes a few more revolutions than dry but all the pins are out of the cases this way before you go to dry them. This also lets you dry them without using an oven. I just spread mine out on a towel and run a fan on it. But this method removes the need to inspect the cases again just to remove bits of media from the flash hole like in the dry process. The only drawback to the wet process is that it takes additional time for the cases to dry which is not a big deal given the volume I do at a time.

Each to their own as to which method you prefer but to me it's a wash... (I'll see my self out)

Get a manual first. Read it. Read it again. Build your bench after so you know what size it should be based on the equipment/powders you plan on using.

The ABCs of Reloading is a good beginner manual that goes over the loading process in detail as well as why you might want certain upgrades to your process.

I wrote a basic intro to reloading a few years ago that might help get some idea of what you need/want.

I've also got posts on different cleaning systems for brass(Save yourself any headache and get a wet tumbler. It is by far the best) and some basic cost-per-round/are you actually saving money by reloading.

If you have amazon prime, or just stack up enough for free shipping, they're regularly under $4 apiece if you aren't picky about the colors. The better deal is when they have the plastic ammo can + 4 of the 100rd boxes for $15.

I just can provide you the amazon site in german but if you put some of this rubber foam on the deflector the brass will less likely bend like this. i put this rubber on my AR-10 and Bolt rifles, no more bend case mouth's or brass.

https://www.amazon.de/Zugluft-Gummidichtung-EPDM-Gummi-Schaumstoff-Wetterschutz-Zugluftstopper/dp/B00NJ0W380/

Best $30 I've spent on reloading gear:

https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Digital-Reloading-Display/dp/B002BDOHNA

I have that same Lee scale. Works great. Super simple. Massive waste of time to use.

I have the same problem with my 10mm too. I thought about getting a graco model that attaches to the picatinny rail, but I heard they don’t hold for long.
https://www.amazon.com/Graco-Models-Mark-II-Picatinny/dp/B004NLU340

For now, I use an old fishing type net mounted on a stick, tied to a c-clamp, that I can clamp on the bench, and stand next to while I shoot.

http://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=reloading&sa=

This might be a good place to start... Personal I'd start with some charon parts, but you've said thats not what you want to do

You could print me one of these since I cant seem to get my friends who have a printer to print one :) http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:84047

Also, I'd recommend getting a reloading book to read through.

For just making these test rounds, you could get one from your library instead of buying it. Here is a decent starting book.

Note, this is a WorldCat link, at the bottom it will tell you the closest library to you that has the book. If none near by do, go to your library and put in an Inter Library Loan (ILL) request for the book. A couple weeks later (max), the book will show up, and you'll get to keep it for ~2 weeks with a possible renewal option (depends on the libraries involved and their agreement). ILL will likely be free to you.

(Almost all libraries in North America and Europe participate in a InterLibary network that freely trades books between libraries. Sometimes there is a small fee to cover shipping, but most of the time the libraries cover this cost as part of the operating costs for ILL services.)

>privacy.com

I'd like to thank you, not just for sharing, but for letting us know about privacy.com. I just signed up. The stuff you're putting up with has happened to me in the past, and I've had to cancel my VISA/Debit several times over the last few years.

​

Thanks again,

Kalroy

One other thing to note is that it isn’t simply a matter of connecting the coil to a battery. The coil doesn’t generate a magnetic field just by running electricity through it, but rather by very rapidly changing the direction of the current running through it. When you constantly change the direction of the current running through a coil, the coil generates a magnetic field in the middle. Putting a piece of a somewhat conductive material in the coil while it’s generating the magnetic field induces a current in the material, and that current generates heat.

So, you need to connect the power supply to a circuit that very rapidly changes the direction of the current through the coil. Something like this would work for a small project, but there are much bigger ones when you need more power.

I have very similar equipment. I love my Lee Turret Press. Primers will come in stock soon, and powder will get easier to find. Instead of paying for official media for that tumbler, get this Zilla Ground English Walnut Shells Desert Blend. Much cheaper. Works great. PM me if you'd like some sources I've used for shell cases, actual bullets (including lead and coated), etc. I'm not selling anything, just places I trust that often have stuff when the big buys are out.

Probably. You need something dead nuts reliable just to check other scales and have some level of confidence in the readings. Here's the industry standard, the Ohaus 505 at a great price right now: https://www.amazon.com/OHAUS-30393272-Reloading-Height-Length/dp/B075VY8ZYB/ref=pd_di_sccai_2?pd_rd_w=czJ2c&pf_rd_p=c9443270-b914-4430-a90b-72e3e7e784e0&pf_rd_r=JZ68BP2G4B4CZFN33BQE&pd_rd_r=0cc96dad-3389-489c-bd69-f4d966ff5285&pd_r...

You are correct. It's MDF substrate. Two layers so a total of 1 ¹/²" thickness. There is a cleat on three sides anchoring it to the wall. The spackling is to fill small the gaps between the mdf and the wall and to cover the screw holes.
The epoxy is Stone Coat

It's clear initially, but you just add color and swirl it to give the appearance you want. I'm going for something black and gray/silver..marble ish. I'll also paint the mdf black before coating it.

I also have legs...that mount directly under each press. They are basically black pipe anchored to the underside of the press and the concrete floor. That transfers the force directly to the floor rather that put the strain on the workbench. It won't move when finished.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Front-Windshield-Wiper-Motor-Fits-VW-Beetle-Golf-Jetta-Passat-1J0955119-/324133553268?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

Wiper motor.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078RY6YY3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_ORcZFb31RZ2VD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Power supply. Although any 12v power supply that is at least 40w would work. This was just the cheapest I could get.

It's a 5/16 shaft so a small coupler that's threaded is needed. I left some play so it could move since it's not a perfect alignment.

.

I had a GemPro, just sold it this week and bought this one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012TDNAM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

From the reviews, I think it will be approximately comparable to the GemPro250 for much less $.

Places like Midway are still selling it for $189.99. Looks like Amazon has them for $147.99 as well with prime shipping available to boot.

So looking at buying my first press and noticed that amazon has the lee jeans logo on the lee press. clicking on it takes you over to the jeans. lol

I have had VERY good results with the iGaging Absolute Origin found on Amazon Here: https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-ABSOLUTE-Digital-Electronic-Caliper/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1498694071&sr=8-5&keywords=digital+calipers

There are a number of reloaders (much deeper into reloading than I) using this piece of hardware with very good results.

Here is the video that sold me on buying it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1yqZx_FNbSs

I'm going to present the other side of the debate. I went to amazon and perused the lowest cost calipers with positive reviews. I grabbed this 18 dollar pair and it's been superb. I'm also not making a living off this tool.

GlowGeek Electronic Digital Caliper Inch/Metric Conversion 0-6 Inch/150 mm Stainless Steel Body Red/Black Extra Large LCD Screen Auto Off Featured Measuring Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZGWQXV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VNevzbBQQHQB2

To add to gillisjn's post: If you aren't too keen on buying the more expensive "reloader" branded cleaning media, check out the crushed walnut shells at your local pet store.

https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/zilla-ground-english-walnut-shells-reptile-bedding

You can also pick up an orange bottle of nu finish car polish which helps add a shine to that brass (not necessary but nice).

Also, if you get sick of lubing your case's with the gel lube and press pad that comes in the Master Kit. Look into making your own case lube with 100% liquid lanolin and some 99% rubbing alcohol. Very inexpensive and works just as good (if not better) than many store bought lubes. I use these 4oz bottles from amazon https://www.amazon.com/NOW-Liquid-Lanolin-Pure-4-Ounce/dp/B0041TZXBW/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1500068068&sr=8-3&keywords=100%25+liquid+lanolin with about a bottle and a half of iso-HEET (95% - 99% isopropyl alcohol) fuel injector cleaner from my local wally world (about $2 each). Have Fun!

They're like $3 apiece from amazon (well not today, WTF $5???) or the LGS. I treat them as disposable. once they're gummed up, bristles get bent, I toss them. I then either put a bunch of add-on amazon brushes in my cart (when they're under $3) or hit up the LGS. I've got too much clutter on the workbench to salvage that type of stuff.

Edit:
30cal 10pack
22cal 10 pack

$1.50 apiece, why worry about cleaning them...

I'm not sure what to do with you plethora of dies. But as for the pins, order the squirrel daddy pins off amazon. I've never had on break or bend on me yet, even with the occasional berdan or matryoshka.

Best tip:

Get a chop saw from harbor freight

And a jig from Amazon if you're doing more than 20 rounds. It will change your life for the better.

RCBS Stuck Case Remover or if you have amazon prime Same price, prime shipped

You're making me go back and check your previous post. That Lee pot is cheaper than I figured it would be.

~~For anyone else considering casting: https://smile.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-Production-Pot-Grey/dp/B000NOORXY~~

Edit: That is the 10lb, which is not what was recommended, but what Amazon brought up. Here's the 20lb: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1262645810/lee-pro-4-20-lb-furnace

Bird cage bedding is crushed walnut and way cheaper than tumbling media despite it being the same thing. Kaytee Walnut Bedding for Pet Birds https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BUFRZU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_OlGEFbXBNJF65

Media Separator. Makes it real easy.

Fill with enough water that the "down side" gets partially submerged, and as you rotate the basket the brass gets dunked/aired/dunked/aired. The media just falls off with the water.

https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Separator-Perforated-Reloading/dp/B01B6S8JUC

You will need a saw, harbor freight sells one for cheap. A cutting jig. I prefer the one linked. 300 blackout dies (keep in mind some are not meant for converting, i prefer rcbs or hornady dies for this). A trimmer of somekind, lyman, rcbs, hornady, etc all make trimmers. Everything you would need for any other bottle neck cartridge. Then all of the components.

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-mini-bench-top-cut-off-saw-62136.html

https://www.amazon.com/ZepReloading-Vonzep-Blackout-Cutting-Ejection/dp/B07TZ6B2J9

You might like these, though depending on how much stuff you have on your bench, you might need to lift up on it for the wheels to go down easier.

~~Looks like "Range Buddy" from the android store.~~ OP confirmed his software. Range Buddy looks similar in output.

OK, so TLDR is this worked for me.

1) I have 120 gn TC SWC 9mm molds.

2) There is 120 gn Linotype recipe for 38 Special with CFE power pistol on the hogdon site. 5.4 - 6.4 gn IIRC.

3) Double powder coat, once with FDE green matte finish, once with bronze gloss finish. They looked awful. Zombie bullets. No one in their right mind would call these things precision cast after this coating. BC was probably negative :-)

4) Tried sizing in the .358 die. Most passed clean through, but none fell back out, which is a pretty good sign. A few gave me very slight resistance. There was no visible sign of changes from resizing.

5) Prepped cases and flared as usual for powder coated bullets (pretty sig. flare)

6) Loaded up 5.5 5.6 gns power pistol and seated to top of cannelure and crimped pretty good.

​

Rounds fired as light or lighter than my 22LR pistol. I would definitely step up this load a touch if I was going to use this recipe more often.

I rushed everything because I was loosing light, so I have no process pictures, maybe another time.

I rushed shooting because it is raining, so 12 yards or so; 12 rounds. The two flyers are most likely me. I am not a very good shot in good conditions, let alone in the rain.

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https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNgIXGN2keSgsNZAhb4quibC2ae9jUWDbjiNGHMfjfx2-T0LEvLMVf2wATUnTBu4g/photo/AF1QipOZ9Bkzl8fe35pkcSWjoyL6YQCVX11D95Jho4tq?key=YnlLUXFBanIxVEF0ZGhNNEVmWWxCSFB1UkMwNEp3

​

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If anyone doesn't have the latest and greatest excel and wants to still view it:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AozA2pkL7dd9dFRLM21qS25GRUpYeENPQzNGQ2RBT0E&hl=en_US

It's also open for public edits so if someone would like to add info about the powder (rifle vs. handgun as texmex suggested) That would be great.

The case must be strong enough to hold the pressure of up to 70,000 PSI. Soft enough to seal against the chamber wall. Springy enough to shrink for extraction. Corrosion resistant. Brass does all of these very well.

In 1881 there were extra-heavy cases known as the Ballard Everlasting (scroll down) They were extra-heavy brass cases designed for multiple reloadings.

In 1985 steel head cases were available. They had a stainless-steel case head screwed onto a brass body. They were a commercial failure.

Its so low pressure there is no risk even eyeballing it (bad idea, but feasible), and it does actually burn clean at higher velocities.

I have an email from Berry's for 124 gr Plated/Jacked RN. Its in the attached PDF, they recommended a COAL of 1.160

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0W7lPQWvEO_MzY4bWg5YV9Eb3Z0RnpOREROak9DU204OUM0/edit?usp=sharing

>Plexi glass:
>
>https://www.amazon.com/SIBE-R-PLASTIC-SUPPLY-PLEXIGLASS-TRANSLUCENT/dp/B01990J7RS/ref=sr\_1\_6?dchild=1&keywords=sibe-r+plastic+supply+white+opaque+acrylic&qid=1634331183&sr=8-6
>
>JB Weld:
>
>https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-50132-Clear-Adhesive/dp/B009EU5ZMK/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=121IASUT1C9FE&dchild=1&keywords=j-b+weld+50132+plasticweld&qid=1634331247&sprefix=J-B+weld+50132%2Caps%2C219&sr=8-3

The Harbor Freight rock tumbler is perfect to start with. Buy stainless steel pins on Amazon. Add a drop or two of Dawn and some citric acid (Lemishine works great). Let tumble for an hour or two. So shiny and spic-and-span afterwards.

I always deprime before I tumble.

Dont bother with the nut roller. Those only really work well on hard flat surfaces like concrete.

https://smile.amazon.com/Vive-Suction-Cup-Reacher-Grabber/dp/B00O47ILVA/

https://smile.amazon.com/Promar-LN-410-Deluxe-Nylon-Bait/dp/B0007RN7JM/

This works on both grass, dirt, gravel, what-have-you, and EVEN better on flat concrete.

These work ok

https://www.amazon.com/Caldwell-Retriever-Collapsible-Separator-Reloading/dp/B00RPAH47K

https://www.amazon.com/Caldwell-Brass-Resistant-Tripod-Collection/dp/B00EB5OU06/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=brass+catcher&qid=1625145670&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-16

I have considered the tarp but think I'd be encroaching on other shooter's space. It's one thing to have brass landing directly behind another shooter and another to actually set up your stuff behind them.

see here A harbor freight dual tumbler.

Its basically this but $60

Wet tumbling is such a PITA. I hardly ever clean my brass. But as to answer your question this is what I did. I went on Amazon or Ebay and bought a chuck with a 1/4" hex shank. Next I bought a battery screw driver that took the 1/4" hex. Now what I do is put the chuck in the screw driver, and chuck up which ever RCBS primer pocket brush into it. Place the brush in the primer pocket and spin the battery screw driver. Works for me. and it's fast.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Keyless-Adapter-Converter-0-3-6-5-0-3-3-6/dp/B0925PV7R2/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5uWGBhCTARIsAL70sLLkOPjAKpufCzywMSt2X9FAoXkh8DgdxY9mVHecRBz9wUNmirHKRdUaAnwyEALw_wcB&hvadid=492861822700&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9029357&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=15622434208244282659&hvtargid=kwd-759785226639&hydadcr=28625_10166751&keywords=drill+chuck+with+1+4+hex+shank&qid=1624887793&sr=8-5

Thank you everyone! There’s too many comments for me to reply to all of them, hopefully everyone (who cares) sees this.

I’m going to buy this starter kit:

LEE PRECISION Anniversary Challenger Kit II https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00162RM3E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_TDEAS6R4CS45QV3XVYB1

Just to get a feel for it, and to get myself started. I’m also going to do a lot more research, I already own this book linked here:

LEE PRECISION Modern Reloading 2nd Edition New Format https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N8OKAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6CMRD7VYTS8H668EWS57?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I appreciate everyone who took the time to comment, answer my questions, and gave me some advice. Thank you!

It took me a minute to figure out what I was looking at... pic 2 is your die with the neck stuck inside...

perhaps a broken shell extractor will work.

My plan B was this...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0851C6Q22/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't need assembly line speed or volume. I started with a cheap 5-12v model, then a 12-48v 1000W model (which works OK with my bench 0-30v supply but finished with the plug in model in the link.

7 seconds per case to get to 700° and I can jumper into the on/off switch with an external timer I have as a result of the 2 other induction boards if I so choose.

My 550 started doing the same thing after about 30,000 rounds through it. I don't know if it just wasnt aligned right or if something was worn out but I installed a bearing slide plate and it works like new again.

https://www.amazon.com/JW-Systems-Dillon-Primer-Bearing/dp/B01L9Q2TX4

There should be a 750 version

https://www.amazon.com/Wall-Control-30-P-3232GV-Galvanized-Pegboard/dp/B001J6FSDS/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3OTJHHQGQGBGY&dchild=1&keywords=metal+pegboard+panels&qid=1619707538&sprefix=metal+peg%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-3

I like it pretty well, several colors to choose from. $35.00

Lee classic turret press - $150

Lee Safety prime - $25

Lyman Brass Smith powder measure - $55

Balance scale - good used ones on eBay (Redding, RCBS) for around $40

Digital scale - Amazon - Smart Weigh GEM20 High Precision Digital Milligram Jewelry Scale, 20 x 0.001 gram, Reloading, Jewelry and Gems Scale, Calibration Weights and Tweezers Included I've used this for over a year, accurate to 1/100th grain, has yet to fail for $20.

Calipers - dial or digital around $30

4 die set for your caliber (you need the separate crimp die) - Lee are fine, no need to start off spending $150 on dies.

Lyman multi-tool - $30

Wish I could help with that, but here is the Amazon link. It’s cheap, maybe buy some and do whatever it is your 3D printers do and scan it and create those files for yourself? Redneck Convent Large Caliber 50... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZB9BN7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

My 9mm, 44mag, and 41mag dies all use the same decapping stem. The rifles can be different, as my 7.62x39 was a different style.

per the RCBS Parts Book page 22, can use different decapping units. Your 45colt uses the more standard 09622 part number it seems.

Looks like Amazon has you covered and it looks like, I did something similar and jacked one of mine up twice:
Purchased 2 times.
Last purchased Nov 5, 2018.

Problem is, the ship date is May 22.

Sure This should do it

u/jewjewbee_1234 kinda beat me to it, but the first "tool" I recommend anyone getting into reloading buys: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H2JD6CK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_KGT3A30HP6NH1GA6P7YZ The first "section" of that book contains about 500% of the information you need to get started (and yes, crimping is well covered). Even for people who have been reloading for some time now, it's still an awesome reference to have on hand. From the information to the load data; it's worth a hell of a lot more than the $30 price tag.

Long term consider making squib rods for common calibers. I carry ones for 9mm, .40, and .45. I’ve needed them once, but lent them out at matches many times.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Q844GRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WSV5PRSQFM4P807130SE

Okay, I'm intrigued. Is this what you're talking about?:

https://www.amazon.com/Strainer-Elastic-Opening-Filters-Gardening/dp/B08LCJ6HWM/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=5+gallon+paint+strainer&qid=1614260254&sr=8-8

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072TW36Y3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&fpw=alm

Been using these, depending on the pistol rnd can get between 50-100 per box. They take up less room in my bag and are reusable. I have a laser cutter, vinyl cutter/plotter, and multiple 3D printers. Sometimes store bought can make more sense, at least for me.

Check the other manufacturers, Lyman, Lee, Redding, Hornady. Shell holders are universal fit on presses, but they all have a different numbering system. They all use the same deck height as well, .125" IIRC.

Edit: Here ya go:

https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-90004-Universal-Shellholder/dp/B000NOQI0Y

https://www.amazon.com/2x4basics-90164-Custom-Shelving-Storage/dp/B0030T1BRE/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=2x4+basics&qid=1604885255&sr=8-2

Literally all you need is a butcher block countertop, a drill, and some 2x4's. Most hardware stores will cut whatever 2x4's you buy to the length you want. If you wanted to cut them yourself all you need is a circular saw. If you can setup and load on a 750 you can put this bench together yourself.

https://www.amazon.com/Beginners-Guide-Reloading-Ammunition-Apartment/dp/148207379X/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=hornady+bible&qid=1604351832&sr=8-8

I ordered from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-205205-Reloading-Scale/dp/B002BDOHNA/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1470689901&sr=8-9&keywords=frankford+arsenal)

I'm thinking they just didn't put it in any pictures. Thanks for the assurance

I got a black and decker cordless screw driver for this exact purpose. +/- $20 on Amazon. I'll track down a link shortly for you. Worked like a charm before I said fuck it for on the press trimming and went back to my zip trim.

Edit: BLACK + DECKER AS6NG Alkaline Cordless Screwdriver https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B004HY3APW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.9Fsyb4X9WK90

It takes AA batteries so you can replace them instead of having the factory battery slowly fuck off like they do.

I used this bench bracket kit from amazon. It's kind of pricey for what it is but the brackets are actually pretty nice. You could recreate them by just using steel brackets from lowes but you'd probably still end up paying a decent amount for them. All you need is the lumber to finish it up.

As for the presses, I'd probably sell all but one. Considering it's single stage you'll have to change out the dies for each step anyway so it won't be anymore trouble to change calibers.

For the paint cans, you don't need them if you're just wanting to put them there for weight. It'll cover enough area to where it'll be stable without it.

You will need shell holder #16

Amazon

I use plastic bins from "akro-mils" on amazon. Here's an example. They have in like 328473 different sizes. They also sale a rail that you can screw onto your bench so they hand from it. Super handy. Have all my bullets and smaller parts separated out and when I use them I place it on the rail.

Not OP but I own a Hornady LNL AP.

>How much fiddle farting around do you have to do to get it up and running for a different caliber?

If you set up the dies right the first time with the bushings (which is an added cost, but they give you 5 to start) You can just loosen up the dies for one caliber and put in the dies for the other caliber.

>How often do your adjustments go out of whack?

I actually just set my pawls on the loose end and they seem to index fine. The case pusher from the case feeder mechanism is very picky with the timing of your indexing. Seems to work fine for me when I loosened them up.

I think that where hornady gets you is here:

1. $400 case feeder
2. Primer pickup tube is shit, buy the dillon ones
3. Bullet feeder system is also expensive. I'd say get a Mr. Bulletfeeder JR or something

Also I would recommend the UFO lighting system, it's like $28-30 on amazon. 500 Lumen LEDs so you can see if your cases have powder.

Just a cursory search on Amazon yields 25lbs of lead for $74. That works out to roughly 900 bullets, at a cost of about 8¢/bullet. And I'm sure you can find other sources of lead.

Link.

And that way you'll only have to locate lead, not an increasingly hard to find bullet.

If you want to buy bulk and drive down the per bullet cost, this site has a pallet of lead for $1390, and that's 1000 pounds of lead. Rough calculations figure out to less than 4¢ per bullet.

If you need to replicate what I've done for an AR, it's really pretty simple. I just picked a quick detach riser with decent reviews from Amazon (I got this one https://smile.amazon.com/Mizugiwa-5-Slot-Adaptor-Medium-Profile/dp/B01CZGTLBK ) and length of L-channel. That plus some screws, wing nuts and oversized nuts/washers for spacers is all I needed. Only tricky part was making sure I drilled it such that the magnetospeed lined up center on the rail mount so it would be aligned with the bore.

I just bought this Lee Decapper on Amazon for $15. I decapped all the brass, ultrasonic cleaned it, lubed it up, resized it, ultrasonic cleaned it again, reamed out the old primers crimps, and primed them. I did all that on a single stage press which took some time.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SF2ZXU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_zEWpBbQ8FGH7M

6-Pack Hornady Sur-Loc rings. They've been cheaper, I've bought them @ $12, $15 and $16, and if you have a decently stocked store nearby, check them out. I was in a fairly large outdoor store (but out of my way) and they had them for amazon prices. Since I get hit with sales tax, it's a wash. The Forester rings, although a more precise fit, run ~$5 apiece. I use the Forster on my more precision loads, but my handgun or non-precision applications, the Hornady rings work very well.

It never hurts to start saving brass now. As for storing it, I use a mixture of ziplock bags and old glass jars. You might have some corosion later if you don't clean them before you store them but it should clean up if you use a wet cleaner. If you might want to get a cheap tumbler and clean them before storing. Amazon has the Frankford Arsenal one for under $40. Then just hit up your local pet store for some crushed walnut mix to use as a cleaner.

> a metal beam scale hits the floor the beam can get bent, resulting in errors. The Lee beam can take a beating and keep working.

I won't speak to other scales as I have several of them, but for the price, have this on hand is terrific, and the price is acceptable:
https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Digital-Reloading-Display/dp/B07Z8FY7QC

Bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002RJURSM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't think there is a big difference between brands though. The other perk to these things is that they can show you at a glance if you need to trim the brass. Just plunk it in and look.

I use a frankford arsenal separator inside a home depot orange bucket. I cut the bucket down to leave about an inch below the separator. This makes it small enough to fit in the sink in the basement and under the faucet. Pour the media and brass in. Fill with water just above brass. Move around the brass with hand pull separator out of bucket and pour off most of the water. Repeat with clean water. Dump brass on towel in sun to dry. Pour off water and return media to the tumbler. Wash hands.

I've been loading 308 Winchester and I use a wet tumbler. My tumbler came with strainer caps so you shake it around in a bucket of water and the pins mostly fall out. I use a magnet afterwards to get the rest.

They also make separators like this which I hear are much faster.

Haven't had any issues getting pins out though with bottlenecks. Even with my slower, less effective "shake it in water a bit" method they mostly just fall out.

Something like this may work well from the customer images it focuses really close and it has good reviews. It’s the same 2mp resolution as my camera too.

Plugable USB 2.0 Digital Microscope with Flexible Arm Observation Stand Compatible with Windows, Mac, Linux (2MP, 250x Magnification) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XNYXQHE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7H5zFb264Q6M6

I would say just about any would do fine, my favorite book is from hornady, because most of what I shoot whether plinking or precision is hornady.

https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-99240-Reloading-Manual-Pages/dp/B01MAUZ71V

https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Platinum-Hardened-Scrapers/dp/B07KT8NQS9/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=Frankford+arsenal&qid=1600375941&sr=8-16

As /u/thermobollocks mentioned, the press does come with allen wrenches. The Bondhus ball-end drivers make worrking on a Dillon easier. They are much nicer to use than traditional allen wrenches.

OK. I hope you are aware that QuickLoad results and reloading manual results in many cases differ, and in some cases differ a lot, right ?

QuickLoad 3.9 - using 69gr Sierra HPBT Matchking (Sierra P/N #1380), with a COAL of 2.260", 23.5gr IMR 8208 XBR, barrel length 16.0" - you are @ 101.5% case capacity, and with a pressure of 56,854 psi (max for 223 Rem is 62366 psi).

If we assume your COAL is now 2,160" - you are at 105.7% load, with a pressure of 62,156psi.

Let me introduce you to https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-050095-Lock-Bullet-Puller/dp/B000PCZZO4

EDIT: if you had gone with a 22.5gr load, you would be (at COAL 2.160") at 53,296 PSI. Still purple, but waaaaay better than where you are at now.

Just got this for my new setup. Small but works great w/ Inline Fab Mount and LnL AP.

UltraHD Lighted Workcenter - Satin Graphite

https://www.amazon.com/Vertical-Cable-Organizer-Finger-Ducts/dp/B01LN1TVCM

This is the stuff we use for low voltage cabling and it's really nice. I know its a little pricey but you mi d find a cheaper version elsewhere, just search for low voltage finger channel. The low voltage part is legal stuff for permanent installations, totally fine in your application. Otherwise wiremold will make cheaper options but more difficult to open and close the channel to move equipment.

You could but you will not get a very good measurement. Hence the smoking the bullet thing. You want to find where it just touches. Buy the tool.

This and the proper threaded case gets you there.

https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-C1000-Lock-N-Load-Length-Straight/dp/B000PD01SI

Decent price on a brand name scale: Frankford Arsenal:

Frankford Arsenal Platinum Series Precision Scale with LCD Display and Case for Reloading https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EE6GHU8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vGNgFb0TJ61TE $89

For the calipers I just picked these up: Neiko brand for $26..huge screen is really nice and reviews on them overall are great.

Neiko 01401A Electronic Digital Caliper with Extra Large Oversized LCD Screen, 0-6 Inches | Inch/Fractions/Millimeter Conversion https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076DS19WQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vHNgFbM3ZTQ9T

You mean these? https://www.forsterproducts.com/product/cross-bolt-die-lock-ring-indiv/

Otherwise they look just like the Hornady rings.

Hornady Sure-LOC Lock Rings, 044606 (6 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OPTMU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lRTfFbF0PSY33

No problem! That is the smaller version. It is in stock and a prime item on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Leakproof-Polishing-Reloading/dp/B07KT8NQS8/

Only downside i forget to mention compared to ultrasonic cleaning it is louder with it spinning the media and brass around. But the results are worth it I think personally.

*Edit I also forgot to say I highly suggest a good magnet with the ss media to put back into tumbler from seperator.

$215 from Amazon (have to change seller to Amazon) and MidwayUSA

You can see the Calibers in the Table of Contents on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Reloading-Handbook-Thomas-Griffin-ebook/dp/B07CMC53WB/ref=sr_1_1?hvadid=78409053128533&hvbmt=bb&hvdev=c&hvqmt=b&keywords=lyman+50th+reloading+manual&qid=1580086122&sr=8-1#reader_B07CMC53WB

they will replace it for you, but if you need it sooner rather than later, Amazon has the assembly for 30caliber. I've been in a rush and bent two of them so far, one on 30.06, and three days ago, on my 308.

You will also need: 6" caliper. Reloading scale. Impact bullet puller. Case trimmer.

>Hodgdon Annual Reloading Manual 2019

All of the Hodgdon data is available online. That manual would not be my choice. The Lyman manual is a good first manual. Read the first third twice. The Hornady manual is a good one to buy, their data data is not available online.

>Bullet Tray Strong Mount Wrench Holder

The strong mount is useful if you plan to stand while reloading. I prefer to sit, my 650 is mounted directly to the bench, which is at 30 inches, the strong mount is of no use to me. The strong mount, bullet tray, and wrench holder are also a lot of money for what they are.

I added a cheap foam bicycle grip to my roller handle. They come in pairs, the other one goes on the impact bullet puller.

Ask for some extra bellcrank cubes when you order the press. It is the one consumable part.

The spare parts kit from dillon is great to have on hand.

A set of Bondhus ball-end allen wrenches makes it much nicer to work with the Dillon.