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Do this first and then just use it with this and you just scored yourself an external HDD :D
I've never heard of a program that requires two disks to be inserted at the same time to work, but theoretically, two external drives shouldn't be treated any differently than two internal drives.
You might also want to try creating image files (an exact digital copy) of the disks with something free like ImgBurn which you can then mount as "virtual disks", which will show up like disk drives, but no need to actually keep your external drives plugged in. This isn't guaranteed to work though, because some disks have special copyright protections which can keep this from working.
Here are some basic steps I would suggest going through:
- Check the speakers themselves with an mp3 player or any other audio source to confirm they are working correctly.
- Ensure there are no switches on the speakers to put them in any type of alternative mode that would prevent you from having the audio work.
- Make sure you have the latest drivers (and HD audio codecs, if any) for your sound card installed.
- If you have an audio input on the front of your computer, try that.
- Make sure that your Windows volume settings are high enough.
https://www.swisstransfer.com/en
you get an email once the recipient downloaded the files, but only if you enter their and your email adress in the form. If you decide to copy the download link you won't be notified. Each recipient gets their individual link.
If you're feeling like sharing a lot of content, you can rip your DVDs and use Resilio Sync (bittorrent) to share a folder between the two of you, not the whole Internet. It's direct sync, no servers, so you're only sharing with your friend. I use it to share my ebook library with my family, with the server at home while we travel, but sharing a library is also a great way to back up your content off-site without paying server costs.
Hit play on each end simultaneously, grab some snacks, maybe Facetime/Hangouts as well to feel like you're not as disconnected.
If you're in the UK, something like this should do the job
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003NSIE40/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_u3bnFbT3FZ0KV
Assume it'll be the same stateside in fairness. Can also buy them.from Walmart/Asda/BestBuy/Tesco etc
Or an external sound card
that port on the bottom looks like a docking port and the camera would fit into a desktop docking adapter; that should allow for charging and data transfers.
I actually have almost the exact same camera, though it's missing the docking port.
And for battery charging, I remove the battery and use the external charger that it came with.
I have done some digging and think I have found an aftermarket charger for you.
Hmm, I tried with some non-apple earbuds and it seems like I'm not having the problem? I might just be getting lucky though, like I said sometimes they work fine. But I think you may be on to something? Is worth a shot for sure. These other earbuds I'm using are also pretty crappy so its hard to tell for sure.
Excuse my lack of knowledge, but is something like this what you mean as an adapter?
https://www.amazon.com/Headset-Extender-Headphone-Extension-Smartphones/dp/B06Y5HFTMY/ref=asc_df_B06Y5HFTMY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242053210283&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14153654451057651483&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1024994&hvtargid=pla-457609687645&psc=1
Thank you for the continued help by the way, I appreciate it.
You could try something like a Netgear Powerline. It basically turns your power outlets into ethernet ports. You connect your modem/router to one in one room, and your computer to another in another room.
I don't think I have a cord that could reach my PC, but wifi doesn't seem to do anything different.
This is the adapter that I'm using; its performance has been pretty solid in this building for the past year.
This one is real close to your price and one of the best ones available https://www.amazon.com/HyperCharger-MAX-Ultimate-Charger-800mAh/dp/B08D88V9TD?tag=june22a-20&linkId=f4f37bc26973981650603b7453bd7776&ref_=as_li_ss_tl&geniuslink=true
The pixels are either "stuck" or they're dead.
If they're just stuck you might be able to fix it with a pixel repair app (it's basically an app that makes your screen cycle through various states of on and off in an attempt to knock the pixels back into their normal behavior). This is one I've used before. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.redpi.apps.touchscreendeadpixels&hl=en_US&gl=US
If they're dead, you need a new screen.
They do have remote control outlets that work off a wall mounted remote control like this. https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-Wireless-Remote-Control-Electrical/dp/B09R2KCX9M/ They don't require any extra wiring and work on RF so no wifi/alexa is required.
Melon VPN has 10 million downloads and 233k reviews on the Play Store so it’s probably not a virus.
Get a Y-Spliter like this
I'm assuming here you're talking about the web version of Gmail, since you did not give any other information.
The autocomplete feature is actually accessing your contacts at contacts.google.com and looks them up to autocomplete them. So if you want to remove that contact from autocomplete you will have to delete this contact for it to not appear anymore.
further, gmail has a 'Create contacts for auto-complete' feature which creates a contact once you write to a specific address. This of course will re-enable the autocomplete feature. You can disable this in the settings.
I use SanDisk SSDs both at work and at home. They've always been reliable.
Generally, when I'm replacing a drive, I just start completely from scratch with a fresh install of Windows. Anything after Windows 7, you don't even need to ind your license key so long as you're installing it on the same machine, because Windows registers digitally now.
Then I just transfer any files I need from the old drive to the new drive via USB. I do it often enough that I bought one of these nifty little guys to make it easier.
Have you tried cleaning the headphone port? Gently use a small screwdriver or similar to see if there is any lint/debris stuck in the bottom of the port? And maybe a q-tip with rubbing alcohol (careful not to get any more lint stuck in the port). They make kits to clean it if you're okay spending a few dollars. Alternatively you can get a USB-C to 3.5mm headphone adapter and use that instead.
108pcs Cleaning Kits for iPhone, for Airpod Cleaner Kit Phone Jack Charger Port Hole Plug Speaker Cleaner Tool for Cameras Keyboards Headphones. https://amazon.com/dp/B094ZWTW56/
USB Type C to 3.5mm Female Headphone Jack Adapter,USB C to Aux Audio Dongle Cable Cord Compatible with Samsung Galaxy S22 S21 S20 Ultra Note 20 10 S10 S9 Plus,Pixel 4 3 2 XL,iPad Pro and More (Grey) https://amazon.com/dp/B089CP79XM/
Yeah sorry
1. Tested it on discord and Geforce Experience, mic audio was heard both times (mic unplugged)
2. On my PC, doesn't have any Bluetooth connectivity so it shouldn't have connected to my phone or other devices
3. No other devices that should have mics are connected, ik for a fact that my monitor doesn't have one and my earbuds have a stick mic that you plug in, which was unplugged
4. Both software I used say that the audio is coming from my earbuds (amazon link) even though it shouldn't be able to.
Hope that's enough for now
does the laptop have separate mic and headphones ports? You might need to use either a mic/headphone splitter or just get a USB adapter like this:
From my quick research, I could only find USB-C cables that go up to 20ft. And, as you said, there are extension cables (some of which I've seen go up to 15ft themselves). I also saw some "Active Extension Cables" on Amazon and a couple of other sites, and some of the Active Extension Cables I see can go up to 16.4ft, and some of them even have signal boosters or some method of providing more power to the cable.
I feel like there could be potential issues with power dropping off with just chaining multiple extensions together, and I'm not 100% sure of how the active extension cables work.
for example:
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Active-Extension-U330-05M-C2C/dp/B07YZRX3RQ
The Tripp Lite Active Extension Cable also states in its description that you can apparently daisy-chain two cables together to get a total length of 33ft, so that seems to be a start?
I apologise if this didn't help with your issue
I hope I somewhat answered your question!
Or you can get one like this and take the guess work out of it? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PM6YK19/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_3902GHFWT2YPPGRNZM3S
If you don't like the style, just search computer microphone for other options.
I really do hate that no one has responded to your query after 3 years, but here I am, with the same problem. I am pretty sure this is a manufacturing defect. I have the exact same issue where it will overheat and then not be detectable. I highly discourage using any water and conductive fluid to cool the camera, but these thermal pads applied to the top of the camera fixes the issue. This is really a flaw with the device, but a fixable one.
You could tear apart the laptop and replace it yourself but you could also use an external sound card. You can find cheap ones on amazon for ~$10.
Get a hook lock and get a Wyze Cam v3. once set up and you install the app on your phone you will see who comes in your room even if your 20 miles away. I have a wyze cam v3 in my garage and 3 wyze cam outdoors in my flat facing the windows and door.
Have you tried using a mirroring app like ApowerMirror? I think it can mirror Note10+ to Vizio TV. You can take a look at it. I think it's free for screen mirroring but you need to get a premium account to unlock the other features.
> How do I know if I am getting the right one....they seem like they interchange the on a Google search.
Yeah, googling for that kind of thing can be difficult since you get items that are the other way. To google the result 'AV to HDMI' is basically the same as 'HDMI to AV'. All the same words to google. Putting quotes in your search to get the exact phrase can help, so search: "AV to HDMI" works better.
For example, here is one I found: https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Composite-Adapter-Compatible-Blue-Ray/dp/B0856WDDJB
You want to make sure the RCA is the input and the HDMI is the output, like the one above.
This is what I thought I had RCA to HDMI, but you say they are suppose to be an RCa to HDMI......ok then I misunderstood and didn't realize they are directional ...Wow. Thank you ...thank you.
These are what I had and thought would work.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/438464292. ONN ; HDMI to AV ( with video, left, righ audio). Mini
Eboxer Digital 720P 1080P HDMI to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K1VBXQV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. HDMI t to 2 AV
Those are called component cables. They are similar to hdmi connection for high def. You can get a 3wire one for cheap, like this https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01J55Z1OU/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_NWXQKVZJZ3T716Y6TWT2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 off amazon.
Yes this is possible. However, you should be aware of the security risks in case you use the machine for other important things as well.
I was going to explain you how to do it, but I thought it might be easier for you if I just share a link to a page with screenshots.
If it didn't work or you need help just tell me.
Just for reference, there are legitimate SQL files on your machine that Windows uses and needs. However, here's where I might start:
Open cmd (type cmd in the bottom left of your screen), right click it, and "Run as Administrator".
Within CMD, type sfc /scannow
That stands for system file checker, and it will check your Operating System for corrupted or missing files.
​
If you want a tool to help you find every file on your computer (including ones you should keep because Windows needs them) try "Everything" from Voidtools ( https://www.voidtools.com/downloads/ ). It's free, and you could sort by "Date Modified" and see the most recent file that has something done to it. This should help you find out what files are being created or altered, and where they reside.
I don't agree with that... I use it everyday to remove programs for my company. You just want to make sure you're downloading it from legitimate sources.
You can get here: http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/download/adwcleaner/
Or from the author's site, Xplode, here: http://general-changelog-team.fr/fr/downloads/viewdownload/20-outils-de-xplode/2-adwcleaner
Host's seems to be the easiest way, try following this guide for mac, not sure if you can do it without password tho, it's worth a try.
http://www.tutorialspoint.com/articles/using-terminal-to-block-websites-on-mac
This is pretty much it you either get a new hard drive of some kind and install an operating system of your choice (mine would be whatever was on there with the original hard drive serial key that should be stuck to the bottom of the machine for that so you don't need to pay for a new Windows install. But if that's not an option their are plenty of free OS's kicking about now)
Or you sidestep the hard drive issue and boot from something else (normally a portable os on a usb stick https://www.slant.co/topics/848/~best-portable-operating-systems here is a list of 12 of them) This one would be my first call as until you know the rest of the laptop actually works don't throw more money at it than you need too.
Alot of the time the case for a laptop to slowdown is hard drive wear and tear. Does the laptop have and HDD or SSD. If HDD you can download hddscan and run the verify test to check the health of the drive(feel free to post screenshot of results here if you don't know what you are looking at).
Otherwise you might want to save everything you want to keep on an external HDD and factory reset the laptop. I always recommend a factory reset / Windows reinstall every 2-4 years to keep the junk down, though Windows 10 has proven to be pretty good at cleaning up daily junk. I reinstall every year.
If there isn't any data you want to keep and you know the windows key then easiest option is a reinstall.
Otherwise, seeing as it's Windows 7, you could use a tool like Hiren Boot CD and the offline password changer to clear the password.
The fact that you get no backlight on the monitor at all when it doesn't boot properly makes me think it's not a drive issue. Usually I would expect a 'failed to load operating system' or 'no OS disk detected ' type message with a failed drive.
This sounds like overheating to me. The i7 (even the mobile ones) put out a decent amount of heat, especially if you have something running. Make sure that the bottom ventilation ports are elevated and not blocked by anything, and check for (and clean) any dust you see.
To check temps - download CPU-z and just keep an eye on what temps are doing. Normal range for an idle processor is 30-35 C; at load, they can get as hot as 65C without issue. If you see temps above that...it's overheating.
Best way to test for a possible disk issue is to make a Windows Recovery disk on a USB drive, and then see if it will consistently boot from the USB drive. If it does, then you know it's probably a disk issue.
If it's not a disk issue or an overheating issue...it could be a corrupt OS (back up important files, then reformat+reinstall the OS), malware (same steps as fixing a corrupt OS), or the CPU is bad from age/heat/stress. If the CPU is bad...you're gonna need to replace the laptop.
Hope all goes well! Feel free to ask more questions :)
One is not using Windows. If you have any USB sticks lying around you can download UUI, a program that writes various Linux distros to a USB stick. It can only be run with admin. If you use Ubuntu with UUI, you can make it write changes to the OS, and installed applications onto the USB stick instead of it getting lost on a shutdown. Also, once Ubuntu is installed onto the USB, DO NOT RUN THE UBUNTU INSTALLER! It's already fully installed onto the USB, and doing this might replace Windows. Tor Browser supports Deep Web links, and it's on Linux. UUI Download: https://www.pendrivelinux.com/universal-usb-installer-easy-as-1-2-3/ Ubuntu download: https://www.ubuntu.com/download/desktop
Is your HDD or SSD also 1 month old?
If it is could you take a picture of your case opened?
If is not a new Drive download a hirens boot, and Rufus to create a bootable USB
https://www.hirensbootcd.org/download/ https://rufus.ie/
Boot hirens bootcd and do a Memtest if it comes clean boot from minixp and run Hd tune to be sure your drive is in good state. Feel free to reply or DM if you can't figure it out. Sorry for my English, I live in Mexico and I repair computers for a living but I really struggle with technical terminology in your language.
If you have a computer I would try changing it from iTunes there instead. If you don't have a Mac, just go to https://www.apple.com/itunes/ and download for Windows. Go to Account --> View my account --> Manage Payments --> Add Payment
A £300 laptop and a year's subscription to https://shadow.tech/ it basically steams a better set of hardware from a data center to your pc and takes the inputs from your pc and sends it to the data center. Linus tech tips has a video on it. Signups are taking a little while as well due to the virus but they are still taking new orders.
(you need an 30+MB/s internet connection to get decent results)
Note the symptoms of your virus. Reboot you laptop into safe mode with networking. Press F8 after the laptop posts. Google the symptoms to figure out which virus you have. Go to http://www.bleepingcomputer.com and find the virus removal tutorials. ComboFix and Malwarebytes seem to get rid of a majority of malware out there, there are tutorials on the site on how to use them. They can be installed in safe mode. I use Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes to keep my PCs clean.
get an offline registry editor. you boot your machine into a linux live environment from CD and it helps you to reset the Administrator or any user password.
Here's the one I use: http://pogostick.net/~pnh/ntpasswd/
- I doubt it would over heat, and it definitely wouldn't explode.
- Don't test these types of things on a non VM, even if you have good intentions
- You can run these 2 softwares to most likely get rid of it, Malwarebytes and RougeKiller
Hmm, idk about PDF editors, but why not go to a PDF to Word file.
Here's the link I found if you're using an older version of word.
https://www.ilovepdf.com/download/6d1j6jdp7bbr2zt0A49nyz23dt3c8qfxqqz6tpwcjms5s9yt1rybnf9lrr7npwpz7A3n3k8hchdxc7sn4985pvrnwhrrrvjlA1fm8rjhfAtAk0vy21b1l07xwfprvhlq0qykvs1rfrynrvjkwvd0dhhcv2k0dgAvn7wc2dlAtlwmAjll4q6q/37o
Sorry i misread your first comment i assumed you already had one installed and working lets try again. :P
If its a new installation as in completely new never had a landline before it shouldn't be an issue to get the phone company to stick the line in the house wherever you want it.
If your working off an already existing set up (like the house has a phone line already installed but not in use or the phone company is being annoying and either wanting silly money or refusing to do a second story installation.) Then you can either go with the wireless house phone option and which has a base station that can sit next to the router and the phone part you can move anywhere around the house (assuming your house isn't insanely large but even then then i think you can get wireless phones with multiple repeaters for stuff like that.)
If you need another phone jack in the house(if you need a certain type of house/landline phone or you have to use what the company provides) you can use somthing like https://www.amazon.com/GE-TL86597-InstaJack-Wireless-Phoneline/dp/B000FFNDSG that which you plug into the the downstairs phone jack and it basicaly does the job of running some cable wirelessly.
Amazon Basics Computer Monitor TV Replacement Power Cord - 15-Foot, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0728CMCDM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_YRhxr3x4nyKnO
Asked the Lenovo agent online and this one is the one I ordered and it works!
You could probably try using one of those HDMI switches that offer you to choose which of two ports signal would be sent to or HDMI splitter. Same kind of device exists for DP ports.
They can be had for relatively cheap on sites like Amazon Disclaimer: I never used one linked and can't say how good it works https://www.amazon.com/Switcher-Benfei-Bi-Direction-Hub-HDCP-Passthrough-Supports/dp/B07DNB98HH
Hey Holey just wanted to provide an update. I ended up ordering these sensors off of Amazon after diving into some online research. I’ll link them down below. The sensors on the joysticks get burnt out over time. Mine had actually had changed color. With that being said I assume the sensors are made of steel since it turned blue after extensive heating. This shouldn’t have been an issue with yours since it was relatively new but I just wanted to provide my update.
Onyehn 10pcs Replacement Trimmer Potentiometer Sensor for Xbox One,PS3,PS4 Switch Pro Controllers,Gasket Repair Parts for Thumb Stick Analog Joystick https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GR8HPBF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6DMZ4Y770CSGBQEPBBTA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
There are USB dongles now that are wireless adapters. Check Best Buy or the like. If you want advice, call in. They have professionals that will know what your want.
TP-Link AC1300 High Gain USB Wi-Fi Adapter - 2.4G/5G Dual Band Wireless Network Adapter for PC Desktop, Supports MU-MIMO, Windows 10/8.1/8/7/XP, Mac OS 10.9-10.14 (Archer T3U Plus) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08D72GSMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_P3H0Z60BZ0FFEN6G4BMC
I've found it before at my local hardware store, but Amazon has it https://www.amazon.com/Falcon-Compressed-Disposable-Cleaning-DPSJB/dp/B0000AE67M/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=compressed+air&qid=1619952835&sprefix=compressed&sr=8-3 or you could check an office supply store
If you have free Usb slots i'd use those first with something like this (though maybe not the first bargin basement amazon link you can find.) before going the route of hmdi>to hdmi audio splitter/converter>to 3.5mm jack(or whatever connector you want that you can stick in the splitter) which would be the way you go about it if memory serves.
here's a capture card, maybe be a bit overkill for your use but hdmi goes in, out and your pc will record the data. Not sure what pc or more specifically motherboard you have so checked if you have pcie expansion slots first.
You can make a backup by going to backup settings setting the new drive to copy all your files to, i dont know howmany hard drive slots you have but if you cant fit 2 then you can use an external hard drive adapter.
Then your only option is a [KVM](https://www.amazon.com/4-Port-HDMI-KVM-Switch-Mechanical/dp/B083XJPNJQ/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=KVM+Switches+144hz&qid=1609143170&s=pc&sr=1-4) switch that supports 144hz.
> This would therefore work for the virgin (cable) box then but any content streamed on the TV (such as the built in Netflix) wouldn’t work and would therefore require an upgraded amp/receiver? If so, it’s so annoying because this used to work fine with a 3.5mm headphone out port..
Here's a better idea, get an ARC HDMI to 3.5 mm converter. Something like this. Then, doesn't matter what he's playing, if ARC is enabled (usually a setting under Display or Audio, can't remember which) it should send it to the old HiFi system.
Wow damn, it says the name right there. I’ve been scouring Amazon but never found that haha.
However, its lack of reviews and pictures concerns me. I did a little research from what you said about the Wattage and Voltage, and was wondering if this might work? it’s the right voltage, and if my research is correct, 5A x 12V = 60W, which should be fine since the original was 50 W. As long as it’s the right plug size, does this check out? Thanks again for all your help, by the way, I really appreciate it.
Here's a good screen protector, and if you buy today since it is tech money or whatever it is 16% off
A splitter won't do the trick, as it will simply duplicate the same image on both of the external monitors. You didn't provide any details on what ports your laptop and monitors have, but I assume your laptop has an HDMI port. If your monitors only have HDMI and VGA ports, you can only connect one external monitor. Plug it in, go to settings->system->display, and tell Windows to extend the desktop, not duplicate it.
If both of your monitors have DisplayPort connectors, you may be able to daisy-chain them to get them both to work as extensions of your screen (thus giving you what you want). If your laptop also has DisplayPort, follow the instructions on this page to get it to work. If you only have HDMI on your laptop, you might still be able to make it work by using an HDMI to DP cable like this one. This, of course, assumes that your laptop supports DisplayPort 1.2 MST.
Oh those apple ear buds break fast, I had them too. And well, they're probably broken. I would try around a bit on them and if it doesn't work, you can order new ones or other earbuds. I have these ones and I must say they're really good and don't break. You might have to get an 3.5 female to lightning male if your phone doesn't have a 3.5mm jack
No problem. A simple factory reset should clear anything. Depending on what type of phone it is, you may need a secondary service to reload SMS messages. I used this app SMS Backup and Restore (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.riteshsahu.SMSBackupRestore) for backing up my messages and then using the same app to readd the messages to my phone. I have a Google Pixel 2.
Thank you so much! I just subscribed to NordVPN, and tomorrow will work to getting it installed on the xbox. This was a great help! So you would suggest not getting the police involved, then? I mean I live in a small town, I get that they're police, but I'm just not sure just how much they can do
This right here. Those are IN connectors only. You will need to use the optical OUT. If the speakers do not have an optical IN then you will need a DAC(digital to analogue converter). something like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HG85H4R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YDTsFbF01NP06
I have a 6700 and run all of my games fine. Still below a grand. I play ffxiv standard graphics with 40 fps, which is honestly more than I was expecting with such a game on my setup.
Here’s the mixer on amazon it’s the amx7321
Audio2000'S AMX7321-Professional Four-Channel Audio Mixer with USB Interface, Bluetooth, and DSP Sound Effects (AMX7321) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074ZNQ6JW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JeB6Eb3SKCJFW
You technically can use them as monitors. However, they aren’t meant to be used that way and they will die very quick if you use them like that. And if you have some of the newer iPad’s, I doubt you’d want to waste hundreds to thousands of dollars because of that. Also, the quality will not be good for that constant use. I’d just invest in some monitors, especially if you’re going to use them consistently for a prolonged period of time. I’d check out amazon.
Sceptre E205W-16003R 20" 1600x900 up to 75Hz Ultra Thin Frameless LED Monitor 2x HDMI VGA Built-in Speakers, Machine Black (Wide Viewing Angle 170° (Horizontal) / 160° (Vertical) ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07743412C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rG3TEbFZH6KYF
Hope this helped :)
Yes, it is indeed the mic being at fault. Sorry to hear that this is your issue. I’d recommend getting the SUPSOO G813 headset as it has a decent mic and great sound quality for under $30.00.
Here’s an Amazon link: SUPSOO G813 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0757L2TFX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6VoJEb0JSQEXZ
Or maybe something like this if you want a switch to move between displays
I've never used either of these products, so I'm not recommending them in specific, I'm only showing the solutions exist.
You could consider buying something like this which will get rid of your middleman and should help with sound quality and latency. It should also solve your problem assuming it's with your controller setup.
lol found that on ebay for a much better price https://www.ebay.com/itm/LSI-Logic-SCSI-LVD-SE-Controller-PCI-Express-x4-LSI20320IE-439946-001-Tested/142155949051?epid=1524610697&hash=item211927a3fb:g:i8UAAOSwHsRYCbli&frcectupt=true
yeah man, they all look like iomegal or something ones from late 90s/ early 2000s
What SCSI version are the drives? If you don't know, post a model number or drive label and a pic of the port.
You'll need a SCSI controller, IDE won't work as SCSI uses an expanded command set which IDE doesn't support.
Best bet is to find a cheap PCIe SCSI adapter and a cable to host the drives on a machine to wipe them. Older SCSI is dated tech, but the controllers will still run you 50-150 ea, even for the old stuff. If this is out of the question, put a bullet through them or take them apart with a hammer.
DO pay attention to these controllers! Most of them are PCI-x not PCI-e because they were mostly for server boards from 90's to late 00's vintage. The link below is for an LSI PCIe card which will probably work for you if you have U320 SCSI drives. You'll have to add a ribbon cable AND the SCSI terminator for each unused port, AND have your drives addressed in the controller. SCSI is nowhere near as simple as SAS/SATA/IDE. Much of the drive/controller/cabling in SCSI requires setup on the controller firmware to address the drive.
I'm looking around for a USB to SCSI adapter but they are extremely rare and expensive.
You definitely not get a "gaming" branded monitor for that price, but really all that you need for that price is a fairly low latency, no more than 6-7ms delay, and then 1080p with whatever inputs you need.
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this might work alongside a display cable adapter if you need one
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I know your problem, man. My aunt changed the WiFi password for "chatting with strangers online" :v
Anyways,
a) Never, EVER mention that you broke the law online. Drinking alcohol under 18/21 (depends on your country) is illegal.
b) Okay, we know that Hitler jokes aren't really politically correct, but calling you a Nazi because of them is like calling you a dwarf because you're holding an axe, goddammit!
c) ALWAYS set passwords for your devices. It might not seem like a big deal, but trust me, it saved my ass so many times. And remember, do NOT share them with ANYBODY.
d) If it's tracking your browser history, just deal with it and don't do anything suspicious. They'll eventually find out that they were just wasting time on spying you.
e) I honestly can't say if it will affect the whole network, but this depends on the kind of software. Although there's 70% chance it won't. ;)
f) If you've got stamina to argue, you can try resetting your phone.
EDIT: Just got another idea. When you get the phone, install a VPN service on it. I recommend TunnelBear, it's "so simple even a bear can do it" and FREE!!!11111
I purchased it from Microsoft via Amazon. According to my Orders list, it's the exact same webpage from which I purchased my previous Xbox 360 controller, which worked considerably better.
Here is the link: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004JU0JSK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hey You Can Do It By Download The Windows File (iso) To Your Phone & After That Download The App ISO 2 USB Link Bio : https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mixapplications.iso2usb
& With That Tool You Make A Bootable USB !!
Good Luck
Hello! So this is a relatively painless and easy fix. I have an old tv with component and composite that I use for testing hardwares. The easiest solution is to buy an HDMI to Component converter. The one I'm linking is the exact one I have. It converts the digital signal to analog (component/composite) that the TV can see.
Additionally, it will scale the resolution to the tvs capability.
It's rather straightforward, plug in your HDMI to the box, plug in your component cables to the box and then to the TV, plug in the power adapter and you're pretty much good to go. On the back of the box is a resolution button that you can click through until the image from your laptop to your TV looks good.
I hope this helps a bit!
(Copy and paste if the link doesn't work) HDMI to 1080P Component Video (YPbPr)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BBFNHCJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eciqBbR5DFW7W
Try using the auxilary input, the cable is included as per the listing on Amazon(Speaker). Connect to the audio out behind TV(red,white), the other end to the aux in on the speaker. 3.5 mm cable looks like the headphone jack cable.
Or if you have 3.5 mm cable use the one below to convert to RCA