I would download Windows XP ISO (check archive.org), then use WinSetupFromUSB to create a USB bootable installer.
With the flash drive inserted on that XP machine. Power it on, then get to the boot menu. If it's a Dell then spam the F12 key. If it's an HP either press ESC or F10. Or just Google how to invoke the boot menu on your particular machine. Then select the USB, then follow the message on your screen.
Microsoft's response: >“The security updates that could be installed are intended for Windows Embedded and Windows Server 2003 customers and do not fully protect Windows XP customers,” Microsoft said in a statement released to ZDnet. “Windows XP customers also run a significant risk of functionality issues with their machines if they install these updates, as they are not tested against Windows XP.”
nLite is a life saver for integrating updates and hotfixes into the installation ISO for people comfortable with remastering Windows XP installation media. Not only does it make the updates already built into the installation ISO, it also saves space since the operating system won't be bloated with uninstallers and extra System Restore checkpoints.
And best of all, you won't have to sit and wait for fucking ever to install all these updates every time you need to install XP.
Here's a link to nLite 1.4.9.1 for Windows XP:
http://www.oldversion.com/windows/nlite-1-4-9-1
Disclaimer - Skill Level: Advanced
Reformat the disk and install zone62's XP Integral Edition so you won't have to deal with wasting hours of getting updates installed.
If you do want to snoop around the current state of the OS before reformatting it, use Hiren's BootCD. Burn it, boot into Mini Windows XP, there should be a toolbox (launcher) in the notification bar, find a password edit tool, figure the rest. :)
After what Sako549 mentioned please its a good idea to check hard drive health, I would first recommend running CrystalDiskINfo, this can diagnose the internal health of the drive, also make a note of what is its drive temperature, health and Power on hours.
Then check for file integrity with chkdsk /f c:, and that might take a while so use when the scale is not needed.
With these two tools you can gather a general view of the health of a hard drive, which is the mostly likely part of a system to fail over time other things considered.
To install with an OEM key, an OEM version of XP is required, or you need to modify an existing ISO to work with OEM keys. You can also use a XP Pro VL ISO with a product key you can find online easily: http://the-eye.eu/public/MSDN/Windows%20XP/en_windows_xp_professional_with_service_pack_3_x86_cd_vl_x14-73974.iso (this one is safe).
If you can't burn a disc, you should try burning it to a USB. This tool has worked for me in the past. If you have trouble booting, you might have to switch the SATA mode in the BIOS from AHCI to IDE.
Before trying to repair the OS, retrieve your important files! Any attempts to repair or recover the OS could delete all files.
If I were you, I'll start like this: 1- Download the flavour of XP from here: https://the-eye.eu/public/MSDN/Windows%20XP/ 2- Image the ISO file to a portable flash using Rufus. 3- Boot the laptop using the USB drive and perform a clean install. 4- While XP is getting installed, on another computer, download your laptop's drivers from manufacturer's website. 5- Check for Windows Updates and install IE8. 6- Install alternative browser such as Firefox or Chrome. Good luck!
If you're using an old netbook and are concerned about privacy/security, you might be better served by loading up a lightweight Linux distro on it. NordVPN also has a client for ubuntu variants since you are subscribed to that. Then you'd have a fully patched and maintained OS with access to other modern software. The netbook won't transform into a faster laptop, but might save it from being e-waste a little longer.
A ChromeOS variant like CloudReady might also work depending on specs. Wouldn't have access to NordVPN, but might be another option for an Internet machine.
I deleted this post anyways after further checking into it, I think the 2020 certificates might take care of it with the ISRG Root X1 certificate. I linked this document on the community software page too...
https://letsencrypt.org/docs/dst-root-ca-x3-expiration-september-2021/
We'll see I guess. I'm already starting to see some pages I used to visit no problem that lost certificates a few months ago actually, so I dunno.
ooh? thanks for this! although this post was made in like, 4 months ago, I'm still surprised someone still answer this. I think there's a way to convert the files into an iso in this website: https://rentry.co/build-win2k3
> vodoo 3 pci on this pc(for glide games)
Oooh, did you see my post about 3D Analyzer, Swiftshader and Nglide? The last one is a glider wrapper so that you don't need the actual voodoo hardware, now its great you have it, but you should also get the wrapper just in case, maybe you can find it useful?
Download a copy of 3DP NET, its a driverpack for Ethernet and WLAN drivers all rolled into one. Copy it into XP via the method explained by anzurakizz (using OTG cable and phone that should appear as a removable device) and run the program, it should find the device and you click on the device to install the relevant drivers.
I have had moderate success with 3DP Chip Net, its basically a whole bunch of ethernet and wifi drivers from many manufacturers all rolled into one. If you're lucky it will be able to install your Wi-Fi drivers in no time.
I don't know why it isn't accepting your username and password (unless you mean your old username and password, in which case it can't accept because you did a fresh install), but I think I know the solutions for the other two problems:
You're going to need to find a driver for your wi-fi card if you want that ability; later versions of Windows have most of that stuff pre-installed, but Windows XP doesn't.
If there's any inconsistencies involving your boot menu, I recommend EasyBCD (free for non-commercial use), or if your boot management is done with GRUB and not BCD, you can use GRUB customizer.
Windows XP x64 is a rebranded Windows 2003 x64. Updates for 2003 x64 install just fine. You just have to do so manually. But worry not, there are already fanmade tools that allow simple and easy all-in-one installation within a few clicks. See this: http://www.wsusoffline.net/
If you're comfortable with using command lines, try Hiren's Boot CD. You can burn to disc or to a bootable USB.
There's also have a way to do it via GUI, but I've never tried it.
I've used the Combined Community Codec Pack (or CCCP) for years now. It works very, very well. If you're inclined, it even comes with a better media player that looks & works like the Windows 95/98 one (so it's fast & simple) that just plays what you throw at it without complaining. :-)
You want the "Insurgent" version, it's the last version that works on XP. (Btw, it's completely unrelated to current political events in the USA; it's been named the Insurgent release since 2007. :-) )
I use PotPlayer and it works great on an old Pentium 4 I use for occasional gaming and legacy software. There's some tricks to redirect browser youtube calls to it but I simply drag the link from the browser over it. I'm limited by the hardware but 720/30 is perfectly fine and sometimes 1080/30 or 720/60 is doable. There's an option to change quality on the fly. I know it's not what you're asking but is an alternative to consider.
> My external Samsung m3 won't work with my system
What's the problem exactly? Is it not powering up, not being seen by the PC etc...
> This may be a stupid question but do i need external storage like a cloud or portable HDD to backup my files safely.
The best option is having both. One local external drive and one cloud based is a great idea. But you will have an issue with how much to you can backup when it comes to cloud based backups, so either you will have to pay up or only choose certain files to backup/ prioritize. The next thing to figure out is how to make it easy to backup you stuff to both locations.
For cloud there are many options. In fact even Google has its own backup program you can download and install on your PC and it backs up everything to your Google drive account. Very useful and pretty easy to use as well.
For local external drive backups you can use tools like Cobian Backup or SyncTools free, you first have to create a 'task' or 'Job' which is basically a rule as to what files and/or folders will be backup to what location, then you simply run the task as needed on a regular basis.
Yeah I didn’t think so. Thank though!
Archive.org universal driver .zip. This is the driver stack that comes with almost every cheap dongle or card.
Almost certainly, my school used to have splitters to split the output from their computer to a monitor and a projector. I'll update with an Amazon link or something.
There are also unpowered splitters, but I'm not sure how well those will work.
It's unclear currently how they identify who is using it, although people believe it is just from downloads. I've not been able to find any trace of it calling home, although I've not looked into in too much depth. There is a thread about it here - https://www.reddit.com/r/sysadmin/comments/d1ttzp/oracle_is_going_after_companies_using_virtualbox/ .
It's just something to be aware of. The chances of Oracle going after you are pretty slim (unless you roll it out to hundreds of people). There is some info on it at https://www.virtualbox.org/wiki/Licensing_FAQ .
XP may even run ok without the Extension Pack being installed, which should be fine.
If you have 10 Pro or a windows server then Hyper-V is free to use.
You could get some like the link below to keep around the house for random projects like installing Win 98 or burning other things and it's fairly cheap too. You can then burn a copy of the iso from archive.org like @Frisk mentioned.
Yes you would also need software to clone it Your pc needs to supor the ssd likely sata maby ide They do make cloner software but im talking about a physical box like This https://www.amazon.com/ineo-Gen1-Docking-Station-Clone/dp/B073W4YDFQ/ref=asc_df_B073W4YDFQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309773039951&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5495426216817405176&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=...
The SATA to IDE adapter works well for me. They are pretty cheap to get on Amazon or eBay. I usually hit Amazon because you can get it faster from there. This is my favorite one because you can go IDE to SATA or SATA to IDE: https://www.amazon.com/SinLoon-Converter-150Mbps-Adapter-Connector/dp/B09SYKRDCQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?crid=1V9KIMT9IKZ9D&keywords=sinloon+sata&qid=1660404193&sprefix=sinloon+sata%2Caps%2C126&sr=8-11
If you have a SATA drive laying around, you could also try this.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Drive-Optical-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00EOJNGC2/
Whichever is better.
You can also get IDE to sata adapters that work too. Keep in mind that these ones work and have the jumpers for the drives. There are others out there to claim to work for PC's that don't have the jumpers and these are actually converter kits for the early X-Boxes and not PC's. These ones work, the others don't. Tested that theory from personal experience and kind of a pain to figure out.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EOJNGC2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've used a number of these and they've worked just fine both with sata HD's and sata DVD/CD roms and with building retro XP and Win 98 gaming boxes.
These are widely available but you know the saying Molex to SATA, lose all your data https://www.amazon.com/Cablecc-Female-Converter-Adapter-Desktop/dp/B081YP2S5R/
I am not using mine enough to worry about hitting an SD cards terabytes written lifespan but I also don't have anything important that I couldn't just redownload.
I am using an IDE to SD card adapter in an old Toshiba Satellite 4010cdt and it works great. If you get an SD card that has like 120mbps or so you'll totally use all the bandwidth IDE and/or your CPU can handle. $13 on Amazon plus an SD card: https://www.amazon.com/Comimark-1Pcs-SODIAL-44-Pin-Adapter/dp/B087QBDCBN/
Amazon has a brand new ThinkPad X201 for sale that comes with Win 7 Pro (so it would also have downgrade rights for XP Pro) but they want $1315 USD.
Back then, 99% of desktops did not come with wireless built in. Most still are on and off with that.
If you didn't put one in, I'm going to assume you do not have one. You might be able to install one though. Have any spare pci slots? Or USB? USB wifi dongles are cheap anymore.
https://www.amazon.com/USB-WiFi-Network-Adapter-Dongle/dp/B07P6N2TZH/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=1KT7YNU3K5L9E
There are USB to SATA hard drive adapters out there (for example, https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-USB-Cable-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84?th=1) but I am not sure if the computer can be set to boot from it. Am thinking in your case though that if you can set up the BIOS to boot from (temporarily at least) from a DVD/CD drive (when you installed Windows XP recently), you should be able to boot from that hard drive if it's connected to an adapter, too.
It may run very slowly though. If you're using it to play a game, it may be too slow?
My ASUS Netbook (11 inch with just one G of RAM) is very slow. My desktop I use Oracle VirtualBox running Window 2000 and Windows XP. Can send you the file so you can quickly set it up if you want.
> i7 3770k/Z77
Overclocking's not worth the premium. Just got a common-as-dirt (ex-office) Dell Optiplex 9020: i7 Haswell (contrary to myths, 4th gen supports XP down to Intel HD graphics), a tiny (120GB) SSD, 2 DVDs (one to toss in the trash & replace with one of these -- the solution to "case where you can change the HDDs from outside") & 8 gigs of memory. These are basically useless for normal people (desktop; old) & go for 50 to 100 bucks East coast US. Might need a better PSU for a high-end GPU (This has a standard form factor but weird 8-pin motherboard connector), but TL;DR it's all 12V -- splice some wires or get one of these.
Yes, I mounted a slot Loading SATA DVD drive into my old machine using this adapter. StarTech.com IDE to SATA Hard Drive or Optical Drive Adapter Converter - 40-Pin PATA to 2.5" SATA HDD / SSD / ODD Converter (IDE2SAT2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EOJNGC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_HTXXZRJ3FPX7APBW94A1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It can boot and has had no issues. I've read comments from other boards about those Kingwin adapters. They may be intended exclusively for HDD.
Pick a certain year that interests you. I got an old dell dimension e510 prebuilt from 2005, so i decided i want all the core components to be from 2005 (gpu, cpu, case and motherboard). I put a Nvidia Quadro fx 3450 in the pc - i got it free from work from our bin of parts we are sending to recycling, but it IS from 2005. I did max out the motherboard with 4 GB of Corsair DDR2 ram. I chose a cheap Western Digital 150 GB ssd. Just because im too impatient to wait for loading. And for right now I'm keeping the stock motherboard with a pentium 4 3.0 ghz. Dell was doing a weird btx motherboard at the time so upgrade options are limited, cant use an atx mobo in the case. Core 2 duo pcs a lot of people recommend and are cheap, however i feel like those are too new, not 2005 and more of a Windows Vista Cpu. So if anything I'll probably go with an amd motherboard, get like an athlon x2 or something dual core. The pentium 4 does okay with games but man everything else kinda sucks. Also if you want a new power supply for the old pc id go with this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09B8PT4WN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Its a 500 watt but it has a lot of older connectors you may not find on newer power supplies, is cheap enough and works great for me. Overall I'm liking my pc but will do more in the future
I asked you to run hard drive and RAM diagnostics four days ago. You said you ran some Dell app on a recovery partition, but I have no idea what that app does - and it likely doesn't report bad sectors or hard drive malfunction. More over, it doesn't sound like you ran RAM diagnostics at all.
Seems kinda funny how your OS won't load - and neither does any large LiveCD/DVD/USB. Know what the commonality is? They all a push lot of data to RAM.
https://www.memtest.org/
If you're actually intent on fixing this, start with RAM diagnostics. Something tells me you're either going to need to drop to single channel or buy new RAM before getting any further.
"I've found out since then it's not damage to the physical hard drive, it's a software issue".
If that were the only problem, Windows would be booting now that you've repaired the MBR. It's obviously not the only problem. Figure out who manufactures your hard drive. If it's seagate, you'll need to make a Seatools live USB. If Western Digital, DLGDIAG.
If you can't afford to replace your RAM, or can't get these diagnostic tools to boot properly or work, you're literally up-the-creek and won't continue making headway.
Just add a JavaShit (also known as Unsolicited Arbitrary Remote Code Execution) whitelist plugin to your browser, for which my personal recommendation would be https://mypal-browser.org/download.html (recently discontinued but still good enough, else search for "Roytam1 Browser Builds msfn")+ https://noscript.net/releases/noscript-5.1.9.xpi
as a Nice Side Effect™️ you get a near complete elimination of bloat and ads/tracking, because despite being absolutely possible with server-side technology alone, they'd rather use YOUR resources to do it!
I got it from The Pirate Bay.
I usually torrent things the old fashioned way when I'm on my VM, that means I usually use Demonoid but I couldn't find it
Put PartedMagic on your USB, boot it, and make a new partition table on the HDD/NAND/whatever. Make partitions. Check S.M.A.R.T. data.
If no errors accure - install a simple XP like this
Also make a PartedMagic USB/CD to check drives and make partitions (New Partition tables). Windows built-in partitioner is full of art.
> I know XP is not intended for SSDs
> I know previous versions, like Windows 98, are not happy at all if you have too much memory
edit your post and erase that retardness.
Good idea. Just check the HDDs SMART before that and make a new partition table. PartedMAgic is the keyword.
> Done: https://thepiratebay.org/description.php?id=36761711
Thanks man I search for that files for days and none of torrent site given right search result , I even i find myself enduo searching on onion site wich wasteded from me more hours , I'm downloading it from my server I not that familiar with torrent sharing but I could like keep seeding this file couple days, do you kno lightweight tools for linux thats works from command line so I use it for seeding .
Is it an XP installation copied from HDD to SSD? Clone it again using Macrium Reflect. In the restored partition properties, make sure they're set to "Vista/7/SSD" even though it's XP.
Is it a brand new XP installation on SSD? Use GParted to create a new "msdos" partition table (this will wipe out everything from the drive) and create the partitions you want. Then you can boot up to the XP installer and format and install to those partitions.
Oh hell the link has stopped working, but we don't know what happened to this page, but village don't worry if I can find some cloud to share and it's simple send the link and I'll give you ok? 😥😥😥😥
​
(Maybe this link will help you to download xp which does not require activation and it works. I use it a lot in a virtual machine so I recommend it.)
https://the-eye.eu/public/MSDN/Windows%20XP/en_windows_xp_professional_with_service_pack_3_x86_cd_vl_x14-73974.iso (Windows XP Professional) (No online/phone activation required)(!Volume License only, requires a valid Volume License key!)
key: V2C47-MK7JD-3R89F-D2KXW-VPK3J
Are you using Windows 10 and nLite? It's a terrible combo, you have to disable UAC, run nLite as administrator and give yourself full ownership of the folder with the files, and then hope for the best.
Alright, so your most likely culprits at this point are:
1: Bad copy of XP setup. You can pick up a fresh unmodified copy here: https://the-eye.eu/public/MSDN/Windows%20XP/
2: Rufus bug. Try a different program to write the image to the USB drive.
3: Bios bug. Check if there's an updated bios for your motherboard.
4: Incompatibility. Your bios/motherboard may not like that specific USB stick. See if you can try a different one, preferably much smaller if possible.
I know it's a lot to investigate and try, but once you find your answer, you'll know what it was for the future. :-)
Download a XP x64 SP2 VL iso from the https://the-eye.eu/, then download the update pack and IE8 for xp x64 from ryanvm, and slipstream them and costumize your installation with nlite. It should work just fine, maybe you're using a bad iso.
Are you sure your ISO is good? (especially since it is SP2, which is even more outdated) SP3 ISOs are pretty easy to find on places like archive.org or on sites like the-eye.eu/public/msdn
Here you go, choose one - https://the-eye.eu/public/MSDN/Windows%20XP/
I recommend the following file though - en_windows_xp_professional_with_service_pack_3_x86_cd_vl_x14-73974.iso
That is the Volume Licensing edition of XP Pro, and it has one major advantage - no online activation. All it requires is a product key which is trivial to find online for the vl edition of XP, and that's it - genuine XP for free. Write the iso file to a CD using the built in burner program in Windows, or use CD BurnerXP (I recommend this)
By the way, there was no need to get a new HDD. You could have just formatted it to wipe the drive using the XP installer.
https://the-eye.eu/public/MSDN/Windows%20XP/
en_windows_xp_professional_with_service_pack_3_x86_cd_x14-80428.iso is the retail iso while
en_windows_xp_professional_with_service_pack_3_x86_cd_vl_x14-73974.iso is the volume iso.
choose the appropriate ISO corresponding to the key that you have. if you don't have a key, pick the volume iso and use the online key generator (you can find it by searching for "Windows XP keygen source" in r/ReverseEngineering
I recommend that you integrate the unofficial Service Pack 4 (tutorial is shown in the documentation folder in the google cloud repo) and necessary drivers like AHCI and LAN by nlite.
If you want to lean on safe-to-install legitimate homebrews, I recommend using zone94's XP Integral Edition if your hardware supports it, due to the robustness and being the most latest when it comes to updates and patches.
> but I find it impossible to find any files I actually want on XP with the search being what it is).
You may want to download Windows Search 4.0
I know I'm beating a dead horse, but what exactly do you think is a deal breaker when it comes to Windows 10. I love Windows 7, but the writing is on the wall and perhaps more importantly its a good idea to get use to using Windows 10 as you will have to use it one way or the other.
As for the major annoyances with Windows 10 there are lots of options. For example i use Shutup 10 to manage a lot of issues from disabling as much telemetry as possible, to disabling updates if need be.
Yes! Download and install VirtualBox. When you create a new VM you should get the option to mount the disc drive in the VM. You should then be able to start up and install. However, you may have issues with actually copying the file from Windows 98 because it's such an old OS.
You would probably be better off torrenting an ISO of Windows 2000, because IIRC it's much better supported in VirtualBox. You can set up a shared folder and directly copy the .scr file across.
Alternatively, I have a Windows 2000 VM set up already, so if you do feel like trusting me, I can upload the screensaver to Dropbox and save you the hassle...
Ninja Edit: By the way, click the reply button on the comment, not the post
It just occurred to me that I could just reupload the torrent myself. Here it is: https://anonfiles.com/fdEabbb2p4/_limetorrents.info_Microsoft.leaked.source.code.archive_2020-09-24_torrent
There's bunch a bill gates conspiracy videos. There's one 27 GB rar file called 'ms_patents'. Not sure what that's about actually but haven't really seen anyone bring it up.
There's also some older microsoft related leaks there too I guess.
Notepad++ 7.9.2 is the last version of Notepad++ that will run on Windows XP. Says so in the Notepad++ v7.9.3 release notes.
Ok. The next step you can try is to get another wifi card. OR get a external wifi ralink card adapter with a cdrom installer that could work from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019XUDHFC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5ZSJK1QY56GQSQ8AVBKB
Almost any wireless router with a bridging mode would do.
One of these will do the trick if you still have 2.4 GHz 802.11n:. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Portable-Travel-Router/dp/B00TQEX8BO/
This is what I use, the POS updated Integral Edition. It saves so much time. It has a fantastic amount of up to date fixes, drivers and extra stuff.
However if you're after a boring untouched ISO look here The Eye
Sorry if it's a bit late reply. Jyst found it. 1- Reset the BIOS to it's factory default values. 2- SET storage as IDE 3- Download a clean Win2000 ISO from: https://the-eye.eu/public/Operating%20Systems/Microsoft%20Official/Microsoft%20Windows%202000/SP4/Microsoft%20Windows%202000%20Professional%20Service%20Pack%204%20%285.00.2195.6717%29%20%5BEnglish%5D.7z 4- Unzip the file and burn the ISO to a CD or image it to a flsh drive. 5- Boot the newly created media and start a new fresh clean installation. 6- When prompts to select the drive, remove currently formatted drive and partition and recreate them. Format NTFS. 7- Complete the installation. Good luck!
>build 1.8.0_152-b16
I downloaded it from the archive from the official Java site, but it requires a registered account.
​
Get it here:
https://www.filehorse.com/download-java-runtime-32/32446/
The link might look fishy, but I scanned the file from my antivirus and I ran it. No problems so far.
It might take a while to load the installer though.
Try updating drivers for every device listed in device manager, not just devices missing drivers. Besides just running the driver installers, you can have XP search through the driver files for compatible drivers:
If you're using web browsing speed to gauge performance, keep in mind that both browsers and the web itself are being developed with more powerful computers in mind. Browsing the web requires a lot more computing power than it used to.
Both SP2 and SP3 slow down XP significantly, especially on older laptops. It may even be partially intentional imo (especially in the case of SP3).
Make sure the laptop's heat exhaust vents aren't obstructed by objects or dust, and make sure the fans are still working.
There's still an active Multi Theft Auto community and a working XP build, FYI. Mostly just Zombie Mod and Role play, but both are pretty fun.
Although this is certainly the easiest thing to do, you lose a lot of functionality and speed doing this. It's the lazy way out, and isn't really the best solution. The generally accepted best solution is to slipstream AHCI/RAID drivers. My personally suggested method of doing this is using integrating them using the old driverpacks mass storage txtmode integration.
> Some games run better on xp because of hardware (voodoo cards, creative cards, some gforce cards or ati.)
Also Windows 7 doesn't support full screen on DOs based programs and games. Unless you use the built-in driver.
Also speaking of Voodoo, there is a Glide Wrapper that should work for all games that need a Voodoo card, so you don't actually need a Voodoo card to play them. I haven't tested it much, but I did get a demo of POD to work on Windows 7 FWIW.
I run into this problem frequently and the SD Memory Card Formatter tool always does the job for me. Despite its name, it’ll format any removable storage device to fat32 with ease. Link here: https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter/
Let this be a lesson to you. NEVER try to install an older Windows on a drive that has a newer version and expect it to dual boot properly. Start with the oldest version first. If there's any chance of recovering your XP install, it's going to either be a repair XP install (press R when starting an XP disc) or Hiren's boot CD may be able to pull you out of the mud.
>Windows Administrator login page I assume you're talking about the window where you have to press Ctrl+Alt+Del and type the login, if so:
Get the lastest hiren's bootcd that has Mini Windows XP (version 15.2) from here, burn it to a CD/DVD or flash it to an USB drive. Boot into the Mini Windows XP mode, open NTPWEdit and oppen the SAM file in the disk where the system is installed (assuming is 'C:', then it is located: C:\Windows\System32\config\SAM). Pick the account you want to change the password (or unlock; i assume you would pick the Administrator). After finishing this reboot back to the system, log-in with the changed credentials and uninstall the school software... assuming things would not fuck up.
If I were you I would already do a nuclear solution and reinstall the OS from scratch, but it's your choice.
Definitely an interesting problem. This goes far beyond the usual SP3 performance decrease issue. SP3 could still be the cause but it's certainly less likely now.
If I were you, I'd make sure any CPU throttling options are disabled in BIOS, then check temps.
After that I'd try a Lubuntu live CD/USB to see if there are still similar performance issues, to help you rule out a hardware problem.
If things run smooth in live Lubuntu, I'd try installing Lubuntu to the drive. If it still runs smooth, I'd temporarily install Tiny7.
If the performance issue doesn't show up in Lubuntu or Tiny7, it's pretty safe to say there's no hardware problem.
Zorin OS is a Linux distro that tries to mimic a lot of the GUI functionality of Windows XP. Might be worth checking out if you want to get even closer to a Windows XP feel in Linux.
Due to the age of the PC I would highly recommend running something like Crystal Disk Info, just to make sure the drive is healthy.
Also run Memtest 86, to make sure the RAM is ok as well.
HP seems to have removed any support pages relating to this desktop + googling for drivers lead to sketchy sites, not containing direct links to drivers in hp's FTP. If you have networking available in computer with WinXP installed, get Snappy Driver Installer Origin here: "https://www.snappy-driver-installer.org/download/" (Unlike other driver-boosters and other shit this app is the most legit one, not containing any bloat nor unneeded ware. Nevertheless I recommend not installing drivers directly from the app, only to find any information over what device needs a driver, driver details and the location of the driver in the driverpack >>hovering over the device will show said info<<, by this info you can download relevant driverpack, navigate to the relevant path and install it either by setup if the drivers don't contain any bloat by manufacturer or manually if not applicable).
Choose 'Application only', unpack the archive, load the exe and choose "Download only indexes" option. After that the program will show you list of devices it has detected drivers for, don't install them and just exit the program, since what we need are the logs from the app. It should be in the logs folder, so get the latest file with .SNP extension, upload it somewhere (I recommend either zippyshare or anonfile) and send a link to me.
Aight, when it comes to Bluetooth (and possibly other drivers), we have to find it through other means. That site didn't contain the original hp ftp link for Bluetooth, so we have to resort towards Snappy Driver Installer Origin.
Unlike all of the "driver updaters" it's the only app that provides some sort of legibility, without any adware/shadyware bullshit (unlike the original SDI, which is closed-source). It's made by a former contributing dev and buildmaster who used to work on original SDI before shit went downhill. Nevertheless when it comes to ALL of the driver updaters, I recommend not installing the drivers through the app, but rather view as information of what the latest drivers are and where in the driverpacks can be found, download the relevant driverpack for relevant device, navigate to the path with the detected latest drivers and install it through setup (assuming it doesn't contain any bloat) or manually (by devmgmt.msc).
Get to this page: "https://www.snappy-driver-installer.org/download/", download the app using the 'Application only' choice, unpack and open the relevant executable. Choose "Download indexes" option in the popup. When it finishes downloading the indexes and will show the list of devices, close the app and navigate to the logs folder in app rootfolder. Upload the latest log to either zippyshare or anonfile (or to any file sharing host you prefer). Link me to the download and I'll check in the app and find which devices would be appropriate for updating and link you the relevant driver packages.
So I've checked the driverlist from what is now called dynabook's site (sidenote the driverlist is shit, who in their right mind thought not to show only latest drivers and previous expands only if they were expanded) - As expected on the XP SP2/SP3 section there's nothing related to it, I've checked the 7 32-bit section and downloaded those two driver packages related to the Value-Added ones that they might have the drivers, thinking that they'll also include XP ones. Sadly i wasn't able to since even tho i could unpack the SFX archive including the setup files, the Data1.cab inside the setup.exe which i'm sure do include the full drivers can't be unpacked at all when using Uniextract (7-zip "unpacks it" but it can't determine the actual files incldued).
As a last resort we can use Snappy Driver Installer Origin, Contrary to all of those "driver finders" it's the only one that is most legit, though as with any driver finders i recommend not to install the drivers through it, but always install using the setup files included in driverpacks that can be provided or by devmgmt.msc if no setup exists. I can guide you through the process if you want - Download the program to the XP laptop (assuming you have working networking) : https://www.snappy-driver-installer.org/download/ (download Application only), extract the archive and open the executable. Further help I can provide from direct message to not clutter this comment section (if we can find the appropriate driver that works, i'll make a comment about it with the download link to it)
After the drive check is complete (and the drive is replaced [if it's reported as dying]), you could use something like Rufus or WinSetupFromUSB to make the USB and boot the installer with it.
Note: You must have an XP ISO or in the case of WinSetupFromUSB either the disc or a folder with the setup files in it.
>Win7 produces more unnecessary prompts than XP
To be honest I like the copy feature better in Win 7, especially when overwriting. I didn't know there was a speed difference to be honest.
So where is this speed difference exactly? Between difference hard drives, between a harddrive and a USB drive? Etc..
When I have to few files but they are huge I like to use HFS, works like a charm, fast and you can copy to any PC in the network without needing to mess with windows shares.
Also depending on how slow the speed is, I would likely test your drive for problems. My goto is Crystal Disk Info, it should read as healthy and there should not be any yellow parameters.
In case someone stumbles across this thread from Google in the future: as of 2019, most free AVs that still "support" legacy Windows require XP SP3 or later.
However, ClamWin (on-demand scanner) + Clam Sentinel (real-time module) still support all versions of Windows, 98 and newer.
It's an obscure but serviceable Windows port of Cisco's ClamAV antivirus. However, it is seriously lacking in features. Therefore, I would only recommend it on systems for which no modern antivirus is available.
Does your processor have SSE2 (P4+, Athlon 64+) support? If it's an older one processor it may not. If not you'll probably be better off with K-Meleon. I doubt it's the ethernet driver if literally everything else works. It may be the GPU acceleration failing as one possability. The oddest bluescreen I've had so far was actually the XP AMD RAID driver being incompatible with a Samsung 860 500GB SSD which caused bluescreens during heavy HD activity but it could actually browse the web for a bit before it exploded.
MyPal should be very fast with NoScript addon installed (https://noscript.net/). If you want to use YouTube, use an invidious instance (https://redirect.invidious.io/) instead of the official website.
You're looking for this, perhaps?
https://anonfiles.com/j8CfKfDeoa/ForeverBlueXP_zip
The ForeverBlue2 theme is the one that is illustrated in screenshot. Also included is the earlier version of the theme (ForeverBlue). Copy it to Windows\Resources\Themes. Anyways I recommend to install the font before applying the .theme
Where did I find it, you might ask. I've searched for the foreverblue term in napalm FTP indexer (searchftps.net) and some russian ftp server had 2 exes of those themes (the earlier one and the final one in the screenshot). They were WinRAR SFX exes but for the sake of trustyness i unpacked them and zipped'em.
Just install the DirectX june 2010 redist if you haven't - if you did, then basically you're done (and probably you don't have to run the bundled directx installer; so if you skip this and go straight into installing the game, and launch the game successfully, then yeah).
However if the June 2010 redist wouldn't help, copy this DLL to system32 https://anonfiles.com/Dbx2Z9Abod/W95INF32_DLL (should be legit according to virustotal - trusted sauce)
You can use Macrium Reflect to copy your hard drive to another. https://www.macrium.com/reflectfree. It makes it easy.
I know your mobo will run 1333 FSB (that’s decent; better than 1066). I don’t know the max TDP of your optiplex; one thing that determines the highest CPU voltage the mobo can handle. Make sure to update to the latest BIOS. The E6850 will work. You don’t have to limit yourself to just 2 cores; the Q6700 (quad core) was popular with gamers back in the day. I think that the latest BIOS update (support.dell.com) supports Xeon processors so you may have more options there. You can search Tomshardware.com for your Optiplex 755 and research. Once you’ve done that then you can research on delidded.com to find the optimal CPU for you. Another note is that higher wattage CPUs may require upgraded copper cooling with a SFF.
Windows 10 and all other software's flat GUI is confusing. It's feel like staring at empty screen. And slowing me down.
Download the OpenVPN client version 2.3.18 from (pick 686 if you're using the 32-bit version), then choose any VPN provider that has downloadable ovpn config. VPN Gate provides freely accessible volunteer-run servers
I had trouble as well. I had four different USB wifi adapters laying around, and had problems with all of them (Cutting out after a few minutes like you said).
I read somewhere to give this a try and I've had no problems with it in in the past 18 months.
It's slower, but gets the job done, and it's cheap!
Tenda 150Mbps Wireless PICO USB Adapter (W311MI), Black https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B006GCYAOI/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_YNJPE4TZX3NP141ZFRCH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
bought SSDSA2BT040G3 Intel 320 Series MLC Solid State Drive SSDSA2BT040G3 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005B0Z4V4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6CSW2A398W9Q3HE0CWMJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 a few weeks back for a few reasons
1) time-period appropriate (2011, when XP was still widely out there)
2) cheap, $15
3) brand new, verified via CDI zero writes
4) reputable company (intel)
5) software can be downloaded to trim
6) updated firmware already installed to prevent the 8MB bug
7) 40GB plenty enough for XP
As someone that has both new gaming mice and my old MX510, I highly suggest the Logitech G203. Using the G Hub software, you can configure the sensitivity, USB poll rate (I set to 500hz similar to MX510) and RGB lighting into a profile you can then transfer to the onboard memory of the mouse, eliminating the need for the the G Hub software or drivers. This works great with Windows XP, and is honestly even more accurate than my old MX510, the gold standard of the XP era.
The keyboards of the era were all pretty crappy. Very few were mechanical, and I think that was the cause of the craze for the IBM Model M. Though nowadays even a cheap Chinese mechanical pretty much blows anything average keyboard from the XP era out of the water.
AFAIK, Hotspot refers to WiFi, so you would need a WiFi adapter. I found an inexpensive one on Amazon. The faster the adapter the more expensive. You can also go Bluetooth. The ones I found that work with XP were https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0775YF36R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 edit>grammar
If your XP machine has network access then there is another workaround like downloading a tool like Share via HTTP (on the google play store) onto your phone and simply access the files with a browser in XP.
For sure, I don't use XP as a main OS at all, and probably won't ever again, but I love going back to it and could see myself doing it a lot more if I had a laptop running it rather than having to pull out a massive desktop PC every time I wanted to use it. I was very surprised how much you can still do with XP if you do most of your stuff on a web browser and don't need modern software. Steam working for games, MyPal working for more modern web browsing. The only thing I can't get working is ExpressVPN, they have a download for XP but the app doesn't work when I go to launch it. While I would never use it again as a main OS, if I ever get a laptop where I can dual boot XP and 10 I will for sure use it far more often. I'm still stuck on a Windows 7 laptop, and when I upgrade to a Windows 10 laptop I'll be lucky if it even supports installing 7 on it, but I do want to get a laptop at some point where I can have all three installed on it at the same time and mess around with all three.
Here's the $48 480gb Crucial SSD purchased here in 10/2020
I haven't installed SSD Tweaker nor any auto running TRIM tool yet (since this is just an arcade PC) but I have adjusted these settings:
Are there any other settings I should change for this use case?
Thanks!