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The most popular reviews in /r/xbiking:
I ran out of bitching room in the rear un-brake caption, so here's some more: the only brake on the market that fits this awful mount is literally hundreds of dollars whenever one shows up on eBay (Magura if you're curious). I tried one of these even though it's fucked up to expect something as accurate as the pinch gap to stay aligned with a p-clamp... And let me tell you, holy shit. You get it aligned eventually with some bending but the p-clamps are such thing material that any time I jump, hit a bump, or sometimes just brake hard, it got wonky and rubbed the disc. And it's too awkward while mounted to get it bent back because there's so little play, so you have to take it off to Brenda it back into shape every time. On a long enough timeline this would absolutely break and jam up in the spokes and this bike is dangerous enough as-is Plus I'm pretty sure it's not meant for a QR hub anyway, the tines are too wide and I could just barely get the QR screw on tight enough with the added width.
The plastic dice-shaped Schrader valve caps had threaded brass fittings. I drilled out the threads on the fittings with my drill press, spraying on a bit of WD-40 as I drilled. Without the WD-40, the drill bit grabbed too much. I had to go slowly, so heat didn't build up. Then I used a bit of inner tube to give them a nice tight fit on the posts.
You'll either need to run mini v or a cable pull converter, there aren't any integrated drop bar shifters that have the right cable pull for v brakes out of the box. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08QGJBM1H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_Y5AWA2JQE0TC3YC1VAM4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I am giving serious consideration to buying one of these:
It would be a snap to mount to any of the rear racks I use. And, you know, N+1 happens so it's good to be prepared.
https://ridewithgps.com/routes/37635128
Thank you! My buddy and I put together the route, however the northernmost loop was cut out of our trip. Some serious weather was rolling in.
Thanks, I love it and it performed perfect. What route did you take for Tolt park? That sounds fun too. Yeah it is a little 3 weight fly fishing setup. The river conditions weren't ideal but it was fun to get out there anyways. The route I took is in this ride with gps link: https://ridewithgps.com/routes/29815745
Honestly. parts that get touched/adjusted a lot like handlebars and quill stem you're gunna have a hard time keeping it from chipping during install and general use. If you use 2k paint you might have chance but if you're going to paint the bars a color you can get different parts its probably cheaper to buy new parts. I know alot of people like spray.bike. I personally find a lot of the work people do with it so so, but paint is all about the prepwork and cleanliness, sanding between primer,color and clear coats. but like /u/wavespeech said with the quill you're probably chip it the quill when you pull it out.
That looks sick! I recommend getting a small front rack that mounts to the brake bosses and attaching the basked to that instead of using the legs. It will let you have the weight a lot lower and it will handle better. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Gold-Front-Rack-Black/dp/B002MKHR6G/
>Has anyone had any experience with this or does anyone happen to know if I would need a shim or what size shim I would need?
Do yourself a favor and buy a pair of measuring calipers. I prefer one with a vernier scale, but dial or digital ones are fine too. Make sure it has a precision of at least a tenth of a millimeter, and can measure both outside and inside diameters.
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Micrometer-Measuring-Precision-Measurements/dp/B074HZ8S21
Sure! Pretty much only the frame, wheels, and seatpost are original. Here's the rest:
Bars - Spank 2" riser bars. Somewhere around 700mm.
Stem - A 3T road stem I had in the bucket. I think 70mm or so.
Brake levers - Shimano Sora from an older hybrid bike.
Brakes - $18 dollar v-brakes from Amazon
Pedals - I forget. Some nylon plastic pair.
BB and crankset: This Chinese knockoff
Drivetrain: Box Two Prime 9 derailleur, shifter, chain, and cassette 11-50t. 36t chainring. I also needed to replace the freehub on the wheel in order to fit a 9 speed cassette.
Oh, and I used Spray.Bike for the paint. And vinyl stickers from Ebay.
You might be able to reuse the same cables but it’s always best to replace them. You’ll probably need a few sections of housing specifically between the front brake lever and front brake and between the rear cable stop on the top tube near the seat post and the rear brake. A couple of feet should do it.
You may or may not need to replace your levers some are adjustable for length of pull some are not if yours are not and they are short pull only you would need some long pull brake levers.
You can get everything you need for under $50 https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Sport-Comp-V-Brake-Black/dp/B003BCANRY/ref=mp_s_a_1_9 Origin8 is a reputable company. Otherwise if you wanted something Shimano or Tektro branded, it would be a little bit more expensive. And if your brake levers are adjustable for length of pull it would be a little bit less expensive
Rather than using a seat post mounted rack (which cannot hold as much weight and are not as stable), you can get a seat post clamp with the the threaded eyelets for a traditional rack that mounts to the upper seat stays and by the axle.
Yeah! I really didn't want to have to replace the bottom bracket, and it was kinda hard to find a square crankset with a narrow wide chainring, but here's the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZBCS4QR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_tsCRFbME7Z9H6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 For the rest of the parts, I bought a 51T Groupset (it's pretty ridiculously big, but I thought that'd be fun): https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-SHIMANO-Deore-M5100-11-speed-Drivetrain-Groupset-51T-MTB-OE-/353177122591?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
Some super cheap rockbros I got off amazon mostly to match the Nile blue gravelkings. So far they’ve been great
RockBros Mountain Bike Pedals Platform Cycling Sealed Bearing Alloy Flat Pedals 9/16" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073PY3146/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QMAsCbWWSXPEK
There are, but the sidewalls of a RH, tire are WAY more flexible in the sidewall than other tires, so the suspension is far better. Might be worth the price. If your looking for a mid-rage in price...
... I, as well as at least one other redditor, run DMR Supermoto's [Non-Affiliate Amazon Link].
While this review says the loose dirt grip itself isn't great, they ran the tire at WAY too high a pressure (60psi), and I would recommend running them at closer to 45psi. The dirt performance will be better. The sidewalls are thin, but not RH thin. They roll quite fast, and feel more than supple enough on the street and on washboard. I enjoy them quite a bit, and found pretty good value for the money.
If you're below 200lbs, you could get away with running an even lower psi (40'ishpsi).
Are RH tires, better? Probably, they're supple like crazy, but I've had a great time with these on my 90's resto-mod adventure bike.
LITEONE 8-sp 11-40T
I had to run a RoadLink with the original derailleur in order to clear the 40T cog. It works great!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MC9VGJZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Get a quill stem adaptor that lets you put a modem 1 1/8" stem and handlebars on the original forks?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028N14GQ/ref=dp_cerb_3
This is what I have planned for my 1996 Marin.
That's one of those cheap chinese racks, sometimes called sunlite:
https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Gold-Front-Rack-Black/dp/B002MKHR6G/
The horizontal bar that connects to the fork crown needs some creative bending to fit under the canti straddle, but it's not too hard.
Basket is stolen from my mom's wine rack.
Cheap Chinese junk:
JIANKUN Bike Crank Arm Set 170mm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SYYKKRW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I got an 8spd rear wheel from a bike shop so I could fit the 10spd. Stock wheel with 7spd didn’t work.
A great doc. For people who don't have Amazon, and live in countries where it's not illegal, here's a link, and here's a magnet link
Thanks for the compliment! I don't have a lot of experience with them, but they do specialize in things like folding and touring bikes, and have parts that other shops don't often carry. Most recently, they sold me a set of Dura Ace brake shoes but just charged me the equivalent cost for the Ultegras — even they thought the Dura Ace shoes were ridiculously overpriced. I typically go to Missing Link because they're closer to where I live, and a co-op. But also frequent Waterside Workshop, and Lucky Duck. I basically did the Tilden - Wildcat portion of this loop https://ridewithgps.com/routes/34148994 riding up Spruce and connecting at Inspiration Point.
almost 18000 feet of climbing. 168 miles. 4 days. Big Bear Lake to DTLA. Absolutely insane. Bugs. Crazy grades. Hike a bike. Carry a bike. Lift a bike. Hot sun. Running low on water. Melting down. Celebrating victories. Eating insane calories. I wouldn't do the Baldy Bruiser again, but I do not regret doing it.
​
You can check out our Our route lots of photos.
I will do a detailed write up on the bikes and route soon.
Had the time of my life.
Just depends on the manufacturer sometimes. Get a tire bead jack to keep in the back of your toolbox and forget about until you’re on the verge of tears trying to mount tires you spent way too much on to give up easily.
Nothing special, but one of the few short stems with a rise that wasn’t covered in dumb logos: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074J5S9LM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DR7WEP9AK5HQQG3SPYJ1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Using it with an Origin8 threadless adapter - originally was going to use a vintage stubby threaded stem but couldn’t find anything that wasn’t less than 80mm long.
The Sunlite MTB handelbar with a 3" rise seems to do very well on frames with this geometry. Cheap too. Wider than the old narrow flat bar, but not absurdly wide like the Surly Sunrise. It even has a bit of backsweep, so it's easy on your wrists. Just a good conservative easy to live with chromoly handlebar. Highly recommended.
​
BTW - Nice Stump!!
I have the sunlit. Front rack and I’ve carried 20+ pounds over some rough terrain and I have no fears. I have since upgraded to a soma rack that connects to their rock island near the axle but I would have no fear going back to the cantilever stud mounted ones
https://www.amazon.com/SUNLITE-Gold-Front-Rack-700c/dp/B07CP679HT
Question --- What relatively inexpensive brake/shifter lever set would you recommend for drop bars? My front derailleur is Shimano, and my back derailleur is SRAM. The original shift levers are these SRAM ones (link). The gears are 3x7.
The rear brake was a Hayes 22mm mount. There was an adaptor at one point but that doesn't guarantee that a caliper will fit in there https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003QRB7F6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_AQ4WYHM2FQP0JGRVFPF7
These are the tires I run. I didn't pay this much for mine however...
https://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-Racing-Ralph-Tubular-33-mm/dp/B0064G0GLW
Yup that's exactly. It replaced the disk brake rotor and essentially made it a flip flop. I got a 19 tooth but there were options. Chainline is mint. I just did a 5 mile test ride but im super impressed.
It's one I got on amazon for like $10 works great on a wald basket too. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0022ZRTEQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here's 2 brown ones I found online.
Pedalxtreme PDX D10 - link (I wish I could find somewhere other than the Bezosphere, but I couldn't.)
Flybikes Ruben PC - link
No experience with either and colorwise, I think they're close but certainly not exact matches.
I was pretty lucky and found a new old stock Tange steel fork from roughly the same year as your bike.
And this is what I installed on my Trek 990 to upgrade to a SRAM X0 crankset https://www.amazon.com/SRAM-GXP-Team-Bottom-Bracket/dp/B003L9EIZK?th=1
I imagine yours would be the same size. Going with GXP and Hollowtech would depend on if you wanted to run SRAM or Shimano components.
Like others are saying though, it will very quickly cost more than the bike is worth to start making some major changes. I've definitely got more in my bike than I'll ever get back out of it but my goal is to ride it until it falls apart. I love the look and feel so it was worth it to me. If the drivetrain that's on there is in decent shape, those actually work pretty great when properly tuned. Besides the fork, I would consider upgrading to V-Brakes instead of cantilevers if you want something that's a lot easier to adjust and more powerful.
ArcEnCiel Bike Saddle Bag Waterproof Bicycle Strap-On Seat Pack Bag Cycling Wedge Water Bottle Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BPXQ6HC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_6N.YFbVWBB5FF
Nothing special, but it does the job. This old Fuji frame lacks bottle mounts so this was the next best thing.
> https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Gold-Front-Rack-Black/dp/B002MKHR6G/
Used it for 2 years and it regularly carried 30+ lbs of groceries home for me... It did finally break, but not before I had gotten my money's worth, and not in a catastrophic way. One of the arms that was supported by the brake boss gave, but it gave me lots of warning and I had bought the replacement already.
Thanks! It is a generic 110mm 35 degree stem I got for cheap off Amazon. I didn’t wanna get anything too nice before I dialed in the fit I wanted. Works fine so far.
Here’s the link: 35 Degree Handlebar Stem Handlebar Riser Extender 31.8mm110mm Fit for Road Bike,Mountain Bike,Motorcycle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087CQYQHV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_QKaQFb3H7JZ3T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I’m honestly really impressed with it. It’s not as smooth as Shimano GRX, but when you consider you can pick up a mini group set (both shifters and derailur) for under $150 on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/SENSAH-Cyclocross-Shifters-Bicycle-Derailleur/dp/B0811HTS29 it’s shocking how good it is
KRSEC Mountain Bike Pedals, Ultra Strong Aluminum Alloy 6061 Flat Pedals CNC Machined 9/16" Cycling Sealed Light Weight and Thin Platform Bicycle Pedals Premium DU Bearings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PY67DDX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_39jGFbH0TYHV9
Something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Thule-Pack-Pedal-Tour-Rack/dp/B01N6RORTM
Or
https://www.topeak.com/global/en/products/tetrarack-series/1286-tetrarack-m2-(mountain)
Both expensive unfortunately, and I have no experience with either. Just what I’ve seen available.
That's cool then. I'd keep the new one, if you don't have the space or money for both. Grip shifters are horrible - a set of these will make it feel like new!
VP Pedals look pretty good
Front cable hangers were very common for threaded headsets, and they're still quite easy to get.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Threaded-Cable-Hanger-Silver/dp/B000AO5KXS/
It fits between the headset locknuts.
Weanas Bike Handlebar Tape Super Soft EVA Bicycle Bar Tape Wraps with 2 Bar Plugs for Touring Cycling and Road Racing - 2PCS Per Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K0BPPN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_fMigFbFR1QNP4
So I think their answer on the website is confusing.
I have a cable hanger similar to that (pic, link). It's designed to clamp around the steerer tube, under the headset locknut. It does not clamp onto the stem itself.
The product description says it's suitable for a 1" steer tube which is an ISO (v common) threaded steerer. But the inner diameter of a 1" steerer is 22.2mm (also the outer diameter of the quill stem).
So I think their answer is mostly emphasizing that it clamps to the steerer not the quill, rather than the dimensions it mentions - because it should work with a 22.2mm quill stem or adapter....inside a 1" threaded steerer.
Also obligatory plug for /r/bikewrench for these kinds of questions or to double check the correctness of my answer :)
You probably need to get one of these as well for the front brake:
Front Cable Hangar https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-Hangar-Adjusting-Barrel-1274AT-1/dp/B001F31EYW/
I actually got it on Amazon. So far so good, but this pic was only my second ride on it. Although I was doing some bunny hops and took it on a few rocky sections of the trail today. Seems pretty solid and the reviews on Amazon are what convinced me to go with it. Manufacturing seems pretty solid. Not sure I'd put it on my full on trail or DH bike, but for this application I don't anticipate any issues at all.
It looks like it may say "SUN" on the sidewall? Sunlite maybe?
Edit: Found them I think. But not in Pink. Red, yellow and black w/white sidewall on U.S. Amazon.
I got int on Amazon, though they seem to have some stocking issues with it right now. I'd added it to my cart, then it went unavailable, then it came back and I bought it (last week), and now it seems unavailable again.
https://www.amazon.com/Trigger-Bell-Braking-Turning-Changing/dp/B00NZVQ49M
Not a dedicated Wald basket bag by any means but I have used the Caden dslr bag, from Amazon. The tripod straps on the bottom was used to secure on to the basket. Was able to carry my dslr, and other goods, through the GAP trail and back. It's only about $31.
Best option; Replace the headset cups and bearings with a 1 1/8th" 34mm ID headset with external bearings to run any 1 1/8th" straight fork you want. No adapters needed, and it's dirt cheap this is an amazon link to a $16 FSA 1 1/8th" 34mm ID headset.
Try Google Motion Stills if you haven't already. They are fantastic for taking cinemagraphs. It also records ambient audio, which I think helps a lot to relive the moment.
Careful, the bars you mentioned have a 31.8mm stem clamp diameter. The stem on your bike is likely 25.4mm - you would have to buy a new stem as well to fit them.
If you want a different handlebar option that will work with your current stem, check out the Dimension Urban Cruiser bars. If you are set on buying those handlebars, you can replace your current stem with this one from Origin8.
The average modern B17 sags enough to be a total piece of crap in under 10K miles. It's not a good saddle to begin with either. You have to buy a special spanner to attempt to stretch it after this. What this spanner will do is create a worse shaped saddle and is a lesson that you can't fix these saddles.
Grant's right that it's not a forever saddle yet he puts them on 95% of the bikes he sells. Moreover he puts B17s on most of these bikes, a saddle designed for bars below saddle and then puts the bars way above saddle. Because that's some sort of lazy ass signature style. He knows it's a shit saddle but keeps selling them because they're part of the cult. On his personal bikes I've seen a much better $30 saddle choice. I used to get those Velo Plush saddles as takeoffs from Konas at the local shop and loved them. I also used to grab the WTB SSTs that the Surlys used to come with. If I paid it was under ten bucks and those saddles were set-and-forget.
Discontinued(?) Wald 957
https://www.amazon.com/Wald-Front-Bicycle-Basket-Black/dp/B000YBAMRG
> Similar in size to the traditional Wald 157 basket, the 957 mesh basket provides secure transportation for even the smallest of items.
Part Number 957GB
Yes, if you have a specific bike in mind and it had a particular model Shimano or Sram derailleur etc. we could comment on it. Other brand parts are likely fine but we won't know them, so local people are probably your best resource.
Just took a quick look at Amazon Egypt,
is a bike without any suspension. A suspension fork is extra maintenance, cost, and weight so unless you need it (riding on rough trails) you're better off without it. Again, I know nothing of Galaxy, Hador or any of the other brands I saw there. Almost all the bikes have suspension forks, it's probably as much about style as function.
I use Jagwire straddle carriers, but that's as far as I go. They're very easy to adjust with the two Allen set screws on the brake cable.
The RH hangers, on the other hand, require you to hold two different wrenches & tighten them at the correct location. FUH!
I recently studied my own with studs I picked up for $20 CAD / 100 on Amazon (one set per tire) Came with a socket driver I used in my drill and took me about an hour.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B078JJ6J4S?ref_=cm_sw_r_apann_dp_N1167TAJ653WS8Z54FGQ
Any sufficiently aggressive MTB tire should work and I'm happy with the results. Cheaper than anything I've seen in stores.
Yeah, I use Lycra seat covers. They have all lasted over a year so far, as long as I don’t catch my hip pouch Velcro on them. Like These
I'm no mechanic, but my guess would be these guys: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Cantilever-Thinline-Non-Threaded/dp/B000GDCXBA/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=Kool+Stop&qid=1670254740&sr=8-8
For these 90s specialized mtb bikes the handlebars are all pretty standard 1" (24.5mm) at the clamps and if you want to replace the stem they are 22.2mm.
The bars I put on mine are these: https://www.amazon.com/Wald-872-Low-Rise-Handlebar-24-Inches/dp/B001TI8OJ6/ref=sr_1_10?crid=3VW11Y231Y4PR&keywords=wald+rise+bar+2in&qid=1670208316&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=wald+rise+bar+2in%2Csporting%2C125&sr=1-10
That's is an absolutely terrific score for $100. I would personally not worry too much about the tire wear. It looks pretty shallow. I think these came with a lefty fork originally which fit the 1.5 inch original Cannondale headset size. If you want to run it with a 1 1/8 fork, you can get a Cannondale reducer headset like this one. I installed one on an F5 frame literally the other day to fit a Surly Krampus fork and it works like a charm.
It's from a company called Rustic Lane, and it is surprisingly high quality for it's price. Unfortunately I haven't been able to find anything else from them. Here is the link:
Bike Bag Bike Frame Bag Bicycle... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B96HS7SX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I've been a bike mech since 1972, and I can truthfully say that just about any saddle can be made better with the correct seatpost-height, Saddle tilt, and fore-aft position. A poorly-fitting bike frame only exacerbates any saddle issue you have.
All this being said, a Brook saddle can be adjusted by starting out with it a zero degrees level, then start raising the nose a degree or two at a time until you get the comfort you need. I finally bought a digital gauge to set on top of the saddle, but for years all I ever used was one of these: Johnson Level It will take a few rides to get to where you like it, so carry some tools to make adjustments.
I have the regular flats from this brand and they grip really well, they have double-sided pedals : https://www.amazon.com/Mountain-Pedals-Function-Platform-Compatible/dp/B09W16M9P5
I like those bear trap pedals because i ride toe clips, but how did you resist these:?
Yeah. For sure. Figured with mudguards and a rear rack could make it more too. I found another possible option that I could probably get for $15, but it'd be a lot more work.
Schwinn CrissCross - $20 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/671684750128541/
This is all super helpful, I really appreciate it.
Do you have other vintage-new 29er suggestions in this price range? I did really like the 29 wheels on the KM. I'd go up to $700 if it was worth it. I'm lookin at local hardrocks but I'm not so much a fan aesthetically...
I was also looking at Kona Unit singlespeeds though not many close to me at the moment.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZY3TCSV?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
just make sure to get the right size
Strap an elastic cargo net on there and you're ready for anything.
You are lucky - you have a quill stem!
Get a 1 1/8 basket mount for a quill stem and put it in right above the brake pull bracket (drill a hole for the cable if there is no hole and put it in the headset stack).
Use some big washers to attach that mesh basket to the bracket. Use a bit of aluminum L-angle to extend the bracket wider for the basket if necessary.
I used a bit of aluminum square tube (ends cut at an angle with a wood mitre saw) to move a basket 1.5 inches further away (for brake lever hand clearance) and make the connection to the basket wider by sandwiching the sq tube between the bracket and the basket and drilled my own mounting holes - so there are a myriad of cheapo basket mount options that are not bodges.
This, however, makes the basket not removable - but most other hacks will probably also make the basket unremovable as well.
I assume it's this: https://www.amazon.com/Falcon-FW-942-14-42T-Freewheel-FC2279/dp/B0B4WBSXJ2. I'd previously noticed that there is a SunRace 9 speed freewheel which is at least a brand with some history (or am I just oblivious of "Falcon").
... and now I notice there are even cheaper off-brand options: https://www.amazon.com/ZUKKA-Freewheel-Multiple-Replacement-Accessories/dp/B09C1CCSYT if narrower range is ok (13-32)
Thanks for the awesome explanation and details! I am a self-taught amateur with access to some sewing machines - I just realized I should watch some bag making videos on YouTube.
I am going to try a roll-top for my next large bag now, and perhaps an odd-sized 1/3 frame bag for my touring bike. I have a rhinowalk welded-seam frramebag there now. The melted seams give the bag shape, and the attachment points are straps through an additional piece of material added on the bag, effectively making the attachment points wider than a single stitch across the bag body - I really really like how they sit on the bike. My next bag will use similar attachments. The weak point of this small bag is totally the zipper. I wax it to keep it moving, so some type of clip-roll-top enclosure sounds awesome.
Most of the “strong” fabrics I have used are either vinyl-backed cordura (pretty good) or vinyl-backed woven polyester (a cheap knockoff that looks similar), so hearing about more interesting fabrics is great!
I will read more about the techniques and fabrics you mentioned - I don’t think Rilakkuma screen-printed cotton is an ideal bag material, but my daughter’s survived 3 years of high school, mostly because some of the seams were 4 layers thick, then rolled&stitched with nylon thread for leather working 😅😅😅 a total bodge job compared to this pro-level work!
Thanks! I scored a parts bucket on marketplace but I needed to order a stem converter to work with modern stems.
Some generic 26” high sidewall tires from a local bike shop gave me some needed lift so they’re basically the same size as my 700 road bike wheels now.
Thank you for the compliment! On this bike I secured a 12v 5ah deep cycle battery under the seat. It was similar to this one: https://www.amazon.com/Mighty-Max-Battery-ML5-12-Rechargeable/dp/B079ZCJYP3/ref=sr\_1\_25?crid=DSTP89KOQNX2&keywords=12v+5ah+deep+cycle+battery&qid=1664602780&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIwLjAwIiwicXNhIjoiMC4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=...
Technically, almost any 12v battery will work, but you want one that is a deep cycle battery so it can be drained and cycled many times. Keep in mind that a battery with more amp hours (ah) means it lasts longer without recharging but is also heavier and larger. This particular battery was about as heavy as wanted to put on the bike, and it still fit under the seat. On other bikes I've used the bottle holder for a battery (the battery was protected inside a soft case originally made for cassette tapes.
You can go either threaded or threadless but threadless would obviously require a new fork. You have a 1 inch headtube so you'll need to find a 1 inch steerer fork if you go the replacement route.
I replaced my stock 92 hardrock headset with this and it's been working just fine.
https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Pro-Threaded-Headset-Steerer/dp/B002J97EGS
Grunge makes the same part still - it seems to be identical to the Mavic.
Available on Amazon Japan.
https://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B005UUIN8G
If you can get a bolt into the caliper/fender hole through the top of the plate (with some spacers), I think the even the minor bit of flex this adapter has would totally disappear.
I have a 1993 Araya Slice MTB, and maybe I’ll try this conversion with it - I’m sure they have similar clearance.
If your having trouble with the official methods, then you are going to need a chain hook to hold teh chain while you're attaching the pin/ql.
If you're trying the long chain method and still having trouble, then you measured the chain incorrectly. There should be minimal tension while in the small cross chain position (small cassette and small crankset gear). You may have luck with using a couple of zip ties or home making a chain hook (replace spoke in teh instructions with coat hanger piece) out of a coat hanger (or use a small bungie cable) to take up the tension while you attach the pin/link.
the shifter will likely have enough cable pull to work but indexing will not work. so only if it has a friction mode.
You can find modern 8 speed and up downtime shifters if you want to keep indexing and have more gears in the rear. https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-R400-Down-Levers-Cables/dp/B007R4OGFC/ref=sr\_1\_2?keywords=8+speed+downtube+shifter&qid=1663778930&sprefix=8+speed+downtub%2Caps%2C93&sr=8-2
They were put on by the shop we got it from (or maybe by the collector that the shop owner said he bought it from?), so I can't tell you with 100% certainty, but I believe it's these, which are technically BMX tires, but look fairly classy IMO. Best of luck with yours!
KENDA K161 Krosscyclo Steel Bead Bike Tire https://www.amazon.com/Kenda-Knobby-Bicycle-Gumwall-27-Inch/dp/B000A0KZ1O/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=259YCNX36QIBN&keywords=kenda+27+x+1-3%2F8&qid=1663067910&sprefix=%2Caps%2C53&sr=8-2#
26 1-3/8…isn’t that a different ISO diameter from 26 though? These are just 27 tires which are ubiquitous although due to their obsolescence limited in selection.
Ordered it to try, plus some empty 2L plastic jars and a couple frame bags. I make excellent use of Amazon's free returns policy...
Front: https://www.modernbike.com/product-2126218872
Front or rear: https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Gold-Tec-Front-Rack/dp/B002MKHR7A/
Other option for rear:
The axiom streamliner mounts to the upper fender mount
Planet bike eco rack comes with p clamps
The blackburn and surly racks also come with multiple mounting options.
I entertained some nicer options from Velo-Orange and others, but settled on this cheap one from Amazon. Works good enough, my goal was something to steady my toddler and front load when buckling her in etc.
Thanks, I'm saving this comment to reply once I start collecting components for this build. Have you tried using cable housing adapters like this to run full length housings? https://www.amazon.ca/Bicycle-Hydraulic-Housing-Adapter-Converter/dp/B0845PXFRQ
I looked into protective coating options and ended up using wax, specifically Renaissance Wax. I had some already that I bought for use on hand tools (I'm also into woodworking). I like that it is easy to apply and can be reapplied on small sections as needed rather than having to redo the whole thing.
Kits like this are a great way to go.
This right here.
Just adjust the gears to work perfectly in case you feel like using them, then don't shift so damn much.
Chain tension is much easier to maintain with a derailleur system than trying to do without with a single speed where the frame might not be straight and the cranks not totally round.
That's a 3x6/7 with flattish sprockets and an old school non-slant parallelogram mech. Those are delightful to shift in friction. Are they snappy like new stuff? Of course not, but they're not hard. They're *deliberate*. That's the beauty. Shifting takes some doing and thus you don't do it so damn much. I'd blow my wad on a new Sunrace RD10 that's shiny but could have been made in 1970. Imagine getting a part from Rivendell for ten bucks. Or get it from Amazorn if you got prime. I won't judge. Heck, I'd pair it up with some Sunrace SLM10 shifters. Now you're shifting a 1970 derailleur LIKE IT'S 1980! Woohoo! Put on some Blondie and boogie. You got gears. A new derailler and shifters and you're out $25. Maybe splurge the rest of the budget on skull valve caps or somethin.
Single speed is often more of a mental space than easy clicky 1x13 or whatever crazy new shit they got. The good gearing is like a sore on your pecker you just can't stop touching. Make shifting a little harder. But not irritating. This kind of mentality is why I use vintage digital cameras. I like the stuff from 10-15 years ago as it's still capable of quality results, but it's slightly harder to use and I don't have so many damn options clogging up my brain.
Especially with the stock stem, the straight bar is brutal. This is much better in the wrists, while still feeling slightly sporty. these are the ones I used.
made an unrelated tool purchase and realized that the Ryobi tool bag is a perfect fit for the Wald 139. Only comes in xbiking friendly highlighter yellow. Enjoy!
Your paint looks excellent in the photo, I’m definitely going with something better than Krylon or whatever I used from Lowes. I used Spray Max 2k clear coat which came out pretty good, but I wish I had been a little more efficient with it or bought 2 cans.
Where did you get your “direct drive” decal on the seat tube? That’s a great touch👌
maybe I didn't express myself correctly, but I mean something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Goyappin-Cranksets-Bracket-Chainring-Mountain/dp/B09BMBN6VR/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ixf%2Bcrankset&qid=1656064827&sr=8-4&th=1
The bb's aren't seviceable that's right, but installing and removing them is super easy, even if you don't have the tool (you'll absolutely destroy them stethically, but they'll be installed or removed). In comparison I spent more than a evening fightning with some old rusted BB that just refused to get out.
Also pls note that after getting additional context I suggested OP gets any square taper cranks he can get his hands on
SUNLITE Steel Touring Stem, 25.4 x 70mm x 15d, Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AO9OYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_J299KH7RPY9Y5V512JZE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I've used this on my hard rock for a few years now. Since you've already adapted to threadless it may not be for you but it worked well to put me more upright. Also very plain and old school looking.
Typically those suspension forks are worn out by now. I'd suggest replacing it with a rigid fork to save some weight, something like this should do the trick, although you have to figure out if you have a 1" or 1-1/8" fork. https://www.amazon.com/Title-Sunlite-MTB-Replacement-Fork-Threadless/dp/B002I7IC62/
You can get suspension fork rebuild kits from https://www.suspensionforkparts.net/eshop/ if you want to keep it original, but the kit +shipping is typically more than the cost of a new rigid fork.
Also, the Bucklos forks on Amazon are OK. They'll be better than that old RoxShox and have a lockout, which you want for street riding.
Those look super cool! MKS has a higher grade pedal spindle/cup/cone grade called “Sylvan”, plus “ezy superior” versions with quick-disconnects . Here are those touring pedals.
The bubbly pedals are probably sylvan versions of the pedal body with those great custom cleat plates.
The Lambda pedals are cheaper (they were 3000y, now 4500y), which Is a fantastic price for the pedals. I bet they have sylvan grade ones too, but the cheap ones work so well. So many pedals in that range are short or crap. Most of the other MKS pedals down there are pretty short. These lambdas are luxuriously large, well made, and not plastic crap. When components start crossing 50 bucks (at least before the covid price hikes), I rarely see the value in them - usually it’s for weight savings or whatnot. The PD-MX80 pedals are about $60. There are good reasons for people to have those fancy/costly parts who need them - for cool designs like the bubbly pedals or some weight-weenie part made out of titanium & unicorn - but they’re just not for most people. That’s why these cheap lambdas are so awesome. 😊
Thanks for sharing those bubbly pedals!
those look like MKS Lambda pedals. I have a set on one of my bikes, and I think they are the best cup & cone pedals out there. they have the same body as regular MKS pedals, but also have a big molded aluminum toe & heel that really makes it feel great on your foot.
I have some of the Shimano PD-MX80 pedals (with that unique spindle-bearing-roller assembly that is super easy to service), and these lambdas and my second favorite.
I picked up this '93(?) M500 to actually ride trails with, and as cool as the SoftRide is, a suspension stem feels reaaally weird to me every time I pick the front end up. Would like to go to wider bars as well.
Right now I'm thinking a cheap BMX-style quill and Surly Sunrise bars or something, but I'm looking for suggestions.