What are /r/DIY_tech's favorite Products & Services?

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Take a look at the toilet lights at Amazon. Here is an example:

https://www.amazon.com/Colorful-Nightlight-%EF%BC%8COenbopo-Activated-Activates/dp/B01HBESL9O/ref=sr_1_13?crid=1VAKVLLPHQDKT&keywords=toilet+lights+motion+detection&qid=1561556566&s=gateway&sprefix=toilet+light%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-13

Yeah. You can get a cheap Straight Talk phone from Walmart: $10

Use a tether app, like ClockworkMod tether and either connect a laptop via USB, or use a hotspot-creating tethering app like FoxFi.

If interested, there is also a project tutorial, including code files, Gerber files, and instructions:
https://www.hackster.io/kutluhan-aktar/jigglypuff-iot-carbon-dioxide-and-dust-monitor-w-telegram-7ba64b

That is weird that it doesn't already work. Is there anything around that could be giving it interference like a nearby wifi router or something like that?

If you buy the antenna that you linked make sure when you solder it on that you can get rid of a lot of that extra cable length, as it does not help the signal at all. Also you'll need to figure out which side is the signal and which side is the ground on your current antenna. It is likely the one with the trace leading straight to the chip will be the signal.

If you're looking for something simple to see if your plan will work you could always try the pringles can antenna mod http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-to-make-a-wifi-antenna-out-of-a-pringles-can-nb/

Did you try to use recovery mode? Immediately after hearing the Mac boot chime, hold down Command+Option+R – if you see the Apple logo you waited too long and need to reboot and try again.

More information: http://osxdaily.com/2014/12/14/reinstall-os-x-mac-internet-recovery/

In an electronic system with motors, you would normally control a motor with, well, a motor controller.

You cannot directly wire a sensor in line with a motor. The sensor is not designed to output the kind of current that a motor can sink or produce (braking). The sensor is not designed to produce the necessary signal to drive a motor.

Here is something to get you started... A motor controller that connects to an arduino..

Modern kits like the arduino have made robotics considerably easier than they used to be.

You might also have a look around HackADay for similar projects.

If interested, there is a project tutorial including code files, Gerber files, and instructions:

https://www.hackster.io/kutluhan-aktar/darth-vader-iot-cryptocurrency-tracker-and-display-w-pico-d3a822

Haven't used it much but circuits.io has an arduino simulator so you can play around with it without having to purchase one. I'm sure there are others as well. Beyond that, I'd recommend just getting an uno and some LEDs and just start tinkering.

Ok, so I looked into it for you. I think your best option is tonido. They have a linux client. Basically, you set it up to map drives connected to your computer and then, without any port forwarding, sets you up to be able to access remotely.

Hey my man, I read about this one. https://www.hackster.io/hackershack/smart-bartender-5c430e Seems like a lot of examples on the internet.

This one seems like a pump, and a relay to turn it on/off. Definitely update the group on your progress. I'm interested in seeing how it turns out.

I know this isn’t what you are looking for, but this is way simpler, and might be cheaper in the end.

ASUS 15.6" 1080P Portable Monitor (MB169B+) - Full HD, IPS, Auto-rotatable, Smart Case, Ultra-slim, Lightweight, Sleek, USB 3.0 Powered, For Laptop, PC, Phone, Console https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B013XFJKGI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_E4BTH3X9W1KN37CECJPZ

Good article here

http://www.howtogeek.com/139433/how-to-turn-a-raspberry-pi-into-a-low-power-network-storage-device/

Also for the wireless bit, if you don't have an edimax adaptor they work great in the pi 2. Last I checked, these were $10 on Amazon.

Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter, Nano Size Lets You Plug it and Forget it, Ideal for Raspberry Pi / Pi2, Supports Windows, Mac OS, Linux (Black/Gold) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_gdC7wbG7BT0JA

I would personally forgo asking to rent anything from your ISP (Internet Service Provider AKA AT&T or Comcast).

It would be like $10/mo, when you could just buy a router yourself.

Picking from the highest rated on Amazon, this TP-Link one for $30 isn't a bad deal: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wireless-Router-450Mbps-TL-WR940N/dp/B003Y5RYNY/

You would just run an Ethernet cable from your current box into the BLUE port on the back of this new device, then plug your computer into one of the YELLOW ports.

You will want to set up a password for the wifi to prevent people from stealing it, would recommend you ask someone you trust to help, and pick a good password with special characters in it like &$%( etc.

I've never used the light switches you mention, but if they are these ones, then they seem like they will work as you think. The second photo will provide some insight into how each switch goes into the electrical box behind the faceplate. The page says

> Wemo Light Switch seamlessly replaces your old wall light switch and works with any one-way connection light.

It sounds like you haven't changed a light switch before. As such I'll just remind you to please open the circuit breaker the switch is running through before disconnecting the switch from the circuit. No offense intended here, just trying to help you not electrocute yourself.

It’s possible, but I would test it. Automotive batteries tend to be noisy, meaning that although it says 12V, it might actually produce 6V to 24V and move somewhat randomly between the extremes. Often in automotive, these voltage swings don’t matter as much, because the electronics involved are much more tolerant. On the other hand, most consumer electronics will definitely fry if connected to something that noisy, because they tend to be much more fragile.

If you search Amazon for a “voltage regulator “ that will solve this problem. They even have ones specifically made to smooth out automotive batteries. Basically, they take in a messy 12V signal, including huge swings in voltage, and then put out a steady clean 12V signal.

Car DC 12V 4A Voltage Stabilizer Surge Protector Power Supply Regulator for Auto Truck Vehicle Boat Solar System etc.(DC10-36V Input, DC12V Output) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y5JHZG2/

this is the light, amazon link :) thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Slim-Single-LED-1530lm-Waterproof/dp/B06XHXLMYT/ref=sr_1_10?crid=1OTK8X2BQL3GS&keywords=niilight+led+light+bar&qid=1578793124&sprefix=led+bar+light+nii%2Caps%2C202&sr=8-10

You can purchase battery powered 'wireless panic buttons' like this that may work. I think ideally it would be a setup that keeps the alarm end plugged in but is also battery powered but if it's not something being used that frequently simply changing the batteries out periodically seems like it would be fine.

Alternatively you could even bootleg something together like getting a plug-in wireless doorbell and placing the doorbell in your brothers room somewhere plugged into an Uninterruptible Power Supply unit. Then take the button end and modify that into the button style of your choosing, maybe just mount it somewhere you can reach and bootleg a big fat button on top of it.

S4's have a lot of sensors that most phones don't have anymore. I use this app running in my bedroom all of the time to show temp, humidity, barometric pressure and light - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=pl.komur.android.galaxys4sensors

If you have an existing "turn to open" type lock that latches into a slot in the door-frame, you can replace the slot with one of these. It has a solenoid that locks shut and only opens when you send 12v into the solenoid. You keep the door itself permanently locked (with the existing key) and only open the slot using the solenoid. If it's similar to the slot already in your door-frame, there should be minimal damage to the frame, just a few screw holes that you can easily cover up with wood-filler when you leave. Then wire up your Pi to send 12v via a relay to the solenoid (get a pre-built relay module if you're unsure about how to wire a relay to the Pi).

There's also a version that's normally open, and locks itself when you send 12v to the solenoid. Its linked on the same product page.

I have similar setup, got all the drives in an 8 bay enclosure: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MD2LNYX

Merged them all together into a zfs pool (raidz2), super easy. I lose total capacity, but I can lose a drive or two without all my data just disappearing, or expand the pool as needed. Followed this guide for setting up the pool.

It's easy to transfer the pool to a new machine. I've had to do that a couple times already, but they've all been running Debian / Ubuntu. Currently, a super cheap nuc is hosting it. Haven't tried connecting it up to a pi, but I assume it's possible. Unless you specifically need a Pi for some reason, they aren't great for the cost now days.

since it's a windows based program (and it's impossible to find a raspberry pi for a decent price in 2022, and trying to get a windows program running in linux is never straightforward), I would go with a windows PC, and my recommend is one of these refurbished dell small form PCs. I don't know much about projectors so I just picked the one amazon recommended.

https://www.amazon.com/Dell-OptiPlex-i5-7600T-Windows-Renewed/dp/B07XLF99BY

https://www.amazon.com/Projector-Video-Projector-Multimedia-Compatible-Smartphone/dp/B07MTCMHZX

The gloves are kind of pointless - a better safety precaution would be to take a voltage tester like this and confirm that the power is off after the main breaker is flipped.

On the plus side, the first Youtube video I saw for changing a breaker showed the guy doing it on the box while everything was live, so this is 1000x better.

Great video and interesting project! I would maybe try balsa wood and switch to a an esp32 and maybe [these servos](https://www.amazon.com/Wishiot-Linear-Digital-Lightweight-Aircraft/dp/B086WXKK2J) for weight reduction:

Here ya go

USB C to Micro USB Adapter, (4-Pack) Type C Female to Micro USB Male Convert Connector Support Charge Data Sync Compatible with Samsung Galaxy S7 S7 Edge, Nexus 5 6 and Micro USB Devices(Grey) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GH5KJH2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_RENWPJDVE9187TM6J814?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Specs look ok, 500GB is not a lot when you start putting games on though depends how many you will want to keep on your system most AAA titles now are around 30GB GTA V was 55Gb if i remmeber correctly, also this doesnt include windows so another cost and memory sink.

Claims the intel core is faster than a six core AMD, not according to this study http://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Pentium+G4560+%40+3.50GHz

But take as much or as little info from that site as you wish.

All in all looks like a good system for the price, you'll have to use HDMI or DVi as im sure you've read DVi i'd go for personally anyway.

Also no mention of the motherboard? Not super important but i'd like to know before buying.

Anyway hope any of this information might have helped.

If interested, there is also a project tutorial, including code files, Gerber files, and instructions:
https://www.hackster.io/kutluhan-aktar/iron-man-walkie-talkie-two-way-radio-for-texting-w-lora-8da393

What should you make first? Only you can answer that. Probably something simple.

You might want to check out: http://hackaday.com/ and find something that interests you there. There is a "Category" box with a large number of categories.

You are going to have to learn a few things about electronics and programming, first.

Actually using SCRCPY you can attach a phone in Developer mode to a laptop and it will mirror the display, enable mouse inputs and let your type on the existing keyboard. Setting it up is really easy too, heres the GitHub page- https://github.com/Genymobile/scrcpy

If interested, there is also a project tutorial, including code files, STL files, and instructions:
https://www.hackster.io/kutluhan-aktar/irrigation-level-assessment-by-thermal-imaging-w-tensorflow-c60b2c

If interested, there is also a project tutorial, including code files, PCB Gerber files, and instructions:
https://www.hackster.io/kutluhan-aktar/joker-remote-hazardous-gas-station-and-monitor-w-arduino-62f996

If interested, there is also a project tutorial, including code files and soldering instructions:

https://www.hackster.io/kutluhan-aktar/iot-twitter-follower-tracker-and-status-notifier-560c35

If interested, there is also a project tutorial including code files and instructions:

https://www.hackster.io/kutluhan-aktar/marvel-and-dc-weekly-new-comics-release-list-tracker-3d7924

If interested, there is also a project tutorial including code files and instructions:

https://www.hackster.io/kutluhan-aktar/web-enabled-ml-mask-detection-robot-fines-w-penalty-receipt-23821b

Thanks for your comment! You can get more information and inspect instructions from the project tutorial:

https://www.hackster.io/kutluhan-aktar/arduino-plant-water-management-system-w-bme280-1ac1ba

A small, battery-powered, modular grip Raspberry Pi DSLR.
The tutorial can be found here:
https://www.hackster.io/nick-engmann/pidslr-raspberry-pi-dslr-2a86c3

So, Tabletop Simulator (http://berserk-games.com/tabletop-simulator/) currently only runs on Windows/MacOS/Linux x86 of some sort. It wouldn't run on Pi's.

What you could do is run it on a beefy enough machine with four VMs and then either have 4 USB displays, one for each VM or have it sit someplace remote and do a VNC to the Pi's. I'm not sure how well that would do with the 3-D aspect of the game though.

Good luck with that.

i am a big fan of E2B http://www.easy2boot.com/make-an-easy2boot-usb-drive/ you can just put iso files onto a drive and select which one you boot to. i use this for Kali, ubuntu, ophcrack, acronis and windows installs and i have a utilitie for testing ram

I also use PIA, and I also get great speed. In the toolbar menu there's Montreal and Toronto, but there may be more that aren't listed there.

You can find $31.99/year deals on various deal sites. They're well worth it.

If you don't do much torrenting, VPN Unlimited is having a $29.99 lifetime subscription deal.

Nord VPN is very highly rated, but expensive. They're running a great two year deal right now, making it $3.29/mo. @ $79 for 2 years. I might do this myself! If it doesn't show up on its own, use promo code holidayspecial

If you have a light outside you can purchase a light bulb socket adapter and use that for power. https://smile.amazon.com/Adapter-Splitter-Converts-outlets-Polarized/dp/B07V8RLCNH/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3B1WBMW83OT0C&dchild=1&keywords=light+bulb+outlet+socket+adapter&qid=1633134194&sprefix=light+bulb+out%2Caps%2C241&sr=8-8

Aplologies! Linked the wrong device in my hurry to get help. The device I looked into on Amazon is this:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V9JNRZY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A8FDJS8O5L8CJ&psc=1. My PC doesn't include a Thunderbolt port. Can you tell me if in your opinion the Amazon device would help? Thanks in advance.

It wouldn't be a mechanical replica, but what about using a small OLED display to replicate the counter display?

I appreciate the help with this, and your diagram makes sense, however, I actually need the USB ports so I prefer the entire outlet to be live instead of using the switch.

I have a sengled smart light bulb in the desk lamp, and I get a controller for it that can act like a light switch.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QHDV5S4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

my plan is to make the whole outlet live, and then connect this switch in place of the original switch since this one will be wifi connected to the bulb, no wiring required, and the plate can just cover up the space the original switch is in.

Nice project, and nice video! Well done.

Don't feel too bad about hacking up the old SNES, those things looked pretty beat up, getting more use now than they were before.

BTW, in case someone else is looking Amazon has these extensions: https://www.amazon.com/Extension-Cable-Super-Nintendo-SNES-Controller/dp/B005WMIR4C

Ebay has a couple ports, but it is likely hit or miss: https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Super-Nintendo-SNES-Replacement-Controller-Port-Flex-Cable-Great-Condition/143350318481?hash=item2160584591:g:FSIAAOSwUSddTD7Q

Not sure if they still make them,

Found this today, seems to clip onto most small remotes, I know its not iphone compatable but hope it helps.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sideclick-Universal-Remote-Attachment-Amazon/dp/B01MRFY61G/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1537802357&sr=8-12&keywords=fire+tv

I got these from Amazon. They're 12v, run really quiet and smooth, and pump a decent amount of air for their size.

Cheers

No, I want to make this, but in a custom 3D printed shell made to fit the GPD Win 2. Re-read the original post, again. The full original post, please.

Anyways it doesn't really matter, I only posted this request because I couldn't open that USB-C hub, but me and a friend took an Xacto knife and managed to pry it open without damaging anything, so I'm just going to use that.

What you're saying makes a lot of sense, so I looked for a random bathroom exhaust fan on amazon.

This 30 dollar fan has 90 cfm but the case fan linked by Op has way more..110? 110 sounds impossible given the little power.

~50W vs 6W

I don't know if you need a special saline solution, but I recall when I had contact lenses that you could buy basic stuff in bulk from most pharmacies - eg https://www.amazon.com/Equate-Contact-Solution-Sensitive-Compare/dp/B00BH53URM . I don't know how long you need to soak your eyes - could this allow for short term "stick your face in a bowl" solutions for relief?

Do remember to focus on sterility too - everything should be minimal effort to drain, clean and scrub. Even with the salt, 35-degree unmoving water with sun exposure is going to be a haven for bacteria...and pink eye on top of your existing problems isn't likely to be fun. You want maintenace to be easy enough you manage to do it properly even when you aren't paying attention/are in a hurry/etc - it's not something you want to let slip by accident. Depending on the size of the end result, you might even want to invest in a cheap ultrasonic parts bath to minimise contamination from cleaning products.

It already seemed more technical and EEing than I thought I could handle. My computer has additional USB 2.0 ports and I found something that can increase the voltage from 5V to 12V at the cost of Amps and I looked the specs up for the LCD screen (page 6) and it looks as the max draw is under the 1amp max the step up cable can provide. So I will only need to plug one thing into the wall (my laptop cable) instead of two but have the same number of wires. Does that seem like it would work?

Making something like this will be really hard (high frequency signaling, and DisplayPort). However, products that do this do exist, and some are actually not completely terrible. Just buy from a reputable seller if you're going down the order route.

The capacitive ones look slightly better for sure.

https://www.amazon.com/DFROBOT-Gravity-Capacitive-Corrosion-Resistant/dp/B01GHY0N4K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1532288200&sr=8-2&keywords=capacitive+moisture+sensor

Hakko CHP CSP-30-1 Wire Stripper, 30-20 Gauge Maximum Cutting Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPHMUG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_85PjBbNFDA9YN

It’s probably 20-22 gauge if it’s as flimsy as you describe.

Something like this would work if it didnt cost so much x.x

https://smile.amazon.com/Kano-1002-Screen-Kit/dp/B017PB2TXM?sa-no-redirect=1

I can buy a halfway decent windows 10 laptop/tablet from RCA for that price that has a 10 inch screen built in, sadly it has no hdmi inputs

most of your led strips with remote controls I have bought off of amazon will default to whichever color/brightness they were before they were turned off example

build some cabinets for them 1st

you'll need an amplifier to drive them

if your doing music production, get a usb sound module like this one

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1510784152&sr=8-2&keywords=focusrite&dpID=41PsXLwKXOL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Not sure about DirecTv, but I have Dish Network and did this. Getting an additional box means another fee tacked on and my bill is high enough as it is. Dish boxes (aka Joeys) output HDMI & composite signals simultaneously so in my case, HMDI goes to the "main" tv and the composite output then goes into an inexpensive RF modulator. From that I ran coax to the secondary TV which is tuned to channel 3. We also bought a second RF remote off of Ebay so we can have one in each room. It's worked great this way for several years.

Edit: Missing words.

Nah, my samsung (s7 edge)has no problem sticking to my magnetic phone mount without the included metal plate.

Glad to help! Going by the Euro symbol, you may want to see the UK/EU buyer's guide from the /r/BudgetAudiophile sidebar. The mini-amps are found under 'Desktop Amplifiers'.

Edit: If you have any old 9-25v power supply and want a project here is a link to an example of a higher power bare-parts board. An old laptop power adapter is a common source.

They're using something like this. No wires, its the main reason I wanted to disrupt the signal.

Powerline adapters are not the greatest and you never get the speeds advertised on the box, but it is a cheaper solution and can be used to connect two routers via powerline. You'll also have to play with settings on the upstairs router (whether you choose the EA6100 or the comcast modem/router) to turn it into a wifi access point or not to assign DHCP.
Best long term solution would be to run the CAT6 cable inside walls and make jacks. (Same playing with routers will have to happen, but you'll have done it already for the powerline.) It's not a major remodel and can be done with some simple HomeDepot tools/supplies. It would add to the value of your building.

Possible, yes. Practical, very unlikely.

Wireless HDMI modules are available (there was even an old GPU that had wireless transmission), however from what I can tell they're quite expensive and all have some problems with connectivity.

5GHz modules often have problems with interference and 60GHz modules often have problems with range.

Battery will also be a problem. A 200$ battery capable of both 12V and 19V with 44000 mAh could supply a 24 inch monitor for approximately 2 hours.

I don't know about the touch thing, I don't have a touch monitor myself. If it's connected over HDMI it should be no problem, if it's a seperate USB connection, you have to get that wireless seperately somehow.

Converting an electrical signal into a wireless signal in a DIY fashion is pretty much unfeasible from what I can tell.

So in conclusion, making your screen wireless is not only going to be very expensive, but will probably still come with a lot of compromises.

There are several issues with your proposal and I am skeptical that you could achieve what you want for just $53:

• First, why 4 x 200ft runs? Ethernet can be run up to 328ft. Most professionals only push to 290 / 300ft (leaving some slack room for patch cables on either end). For your purposes, I would think you would do 2 x 300ft and 1 x 200ft

• The TL-PoE200 only injects power over the ethernet cable. It does not indicate that it actually repeats / extends the ethernet signal. You will need repeaters that are PoE compatible in addition to the PoE injector.

• Not all compatible PoE repeaters act as PoE injector / extender. In most cases, once you add a PoE compatible repeater, the repeater splits the power out, uses, it, and forwards just the data.

Buying a PoE injector and repeater all in one, isn't going to be found for less than $75-$100, and you'd need at least two.

• The switch on the other end must be PoE compatible; otherwise you will need a PoE splitter to divert the power.

• last, all of this will affect timing to a certain degree and you will be limited to 100mbps max.

you could use a modular CAT6 coupler so that you terminate the end into a normal patch cable end and then pass that through the wall.

Like this - https://www.amazon.com/VICTEK-Female-Keystone-Couplers-White/dp/B01JJ46JX4/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1488711814&sr=1-5&keywords=Cat5e+Shielded+Inline+Modular+Coupler

This one is 6$ from amazon, assuming you live in the US. You can find similarly cheap stuff in Germany. I don't know where you live but I'm assuming prices won't vary very much.

I like the solution, however the oval hole would be about 1" to 1.5" wide and 3" long. I'm almost tempted to bore a hole as you suggested and cut the rest with a jigsaw. I should be more specific.. pc rubber grommets

I was thinking of something like this https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Bluetooth-Controller-Classic-Joystick/dp/B014QP2H1E/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1475785279&sr=1-1&keywords=snes+bluetooth+controller

is it possible to make one using an already existing snes controller?

just use a long thing of El wire and stick zip ties through the fabric. here's a 15 ft strip of it with a power reserve that you could probs put in your pocket or something I'd you put it around correctly. Lychee Neon Light El Wire with Battery Pack, 15 Feet, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EENNHMM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pLe-xbK8XPF24

you might have to get two

You'll need something like this As well as something like this

Sounds interesting. They do make mini projectors like this: https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Pocket-Projector-Mobile-100-Lumen/dp/B008D6JDS8

Could connect to an iPhone via an adaptor, or to mini-HDMI.

I have no tips on actually making one however. Good luck!

Or you could split the audio from the HDMI output. Either way you'll be left with an optical output you'll need to route to your speakers.

Though this product also ouputs the audio with RCA too.

Really up to you if you want to go optical>3.5mm to speakers, or HDMI splitter>RCA>3.5mm>speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Converter-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072

I second the bluetooth route. I use this one, and it works great. It connects when I turn the car on and disconnects when it goes off.

I have a couple of these these for security purposes. They work perfectly, running 2 can be real hard on the computer. They have decent low light and the video looks good.

Well, you could double up on the speaker wires coming out of it, but it "could" limit how loud you can achieve. That starts to get into the resistance of the speakers and all the stuff the previous commenter was talking about, I'd be willing to bet you'd probably be fine doing that though. 4-channel amps are more expensive, but not much more if you shop around, like this.

Maybe this on Amazon may work, you an ask them

From Alibaba, here you have.

My two laptops have a VGA port on them, these handle the first monitor.

For the second, I use a USB video device like this which is pretty much a usb video card. It is not something I would use for gaming but for documents and web stuff it's quite usable.

You could also use a more traditional speaker with a bluetooth receiver/amp like this: http://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Audio-Receiver-Amplifier-Model/dp/B00JB4YWGO/ref=pd_sim_23_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0F5BEP7Y2E34DQH4C2YM&dpID=41KKtvA8K-L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_

Although it would be the same thing as a bluetooth speaker, just more work.