What are
/r/ElgatoGaming's
favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/ElgatoGaming:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/ElgatoGaming:
OBS Studio
AutoHotkey
IFTTT
FileDropper.com
XSplit Broadcaster
NirCmd
DaVinci Resolve
TouchPortal
Restream
Speedtest by Ookla
scrcpy
Jitsi
.NET Framework
mosquitto
groupy
The most popular reviews in /r/ElgatoGaming:
Possibilities are endless if you use AutoHotKey. 1. Map a keyboard shortcut in the Stream Deck app. 2. Write a script in AHK that does complex stuff when that keyboard shortcut is pressed.
There is also Companion that is used in the ProAV world.
There's currently a workaround using IFTTT that Utilizes LIFX & Maker (Webhooks) services. Maker service allows you to trigger IFTTT actions by launching a URL.
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- Make applet on IFTTT Link to Applet
- On StreamDeck app, program a button to use System>Website
- Paste the URL that your IFTTT applet gave you and check on "Access in Background" so that it doesn't open browser every time you trigger it.
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Downside is that you must be connected to the internet & the execution is a little slow because it's not sending the command within your local network.
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Currently dreaming of writing a SD plugin for it once I learn some more coding.
For my part I'm using OBS and select my Elgato has a video capture device. In OBS settings you can give the default output disk/folder and record in mp4 directly (just be sure to have the same 32/64 bits version on OBS and Elgato side). https://obsproject.com/
I don’t believe it can be done with the Elgato software but give MPEG Streamclip a look. It’s rather old software but I still use it on a weekly basis at work (pro video editing). It’s a great little tool. You should be able to open the 2 MP4 files you want to merge and then just hit save and it’ll save a new merged version without re-encoding.
Obviously the one drawback to this is that it’s a straight merge. For any more complex cutting and trimming you’ll need some actual editing software.
I encounter this type of situation frequently in my work. I use a "work-around" by using a utility called Groupy
https://www.stardock.com/products/groupy/
I group the app's together that I need to work with and set up my Stream deck to switch back and forth through my work.
Nope, none of the cables are specific to us. :)
The cable on the left is the USB cable, specifically USB mini type B. We don't sell these on our online shop, however I highly recommend the cable from Amazon Basics.
Thing is the issue happens even when I'm just previewing using either software, so it's not like I'm trying to stream in that moment. Recording locally shows the same. Very frustrating. I ordered the AVerMedia Live Gamer HD 2 off Amazon to try it out later today. If it works as it says on the tin then the Elgato is going back and getting a scathing review on every outlet I can find.
https://www.amazon.de/Elgato-Green-Screen-Hintergrundentfernung-Chroma-Green-Material/dp/B06XQ72SXG/
https://www.amazon.es/Elgato-Green-Screen-eliminación-autodesplegable/dp/B06XQ72SXG/
Just order it through the German or the Spanish Amazon Page. One of my friends ordered it through the Spanish Amazon Page and got it last week but I assume that the Germans too would ship if this week if you order it over the next upcoming hours/days.
$16 solution, an HDMI splitter [I have the same capture card] -- I came across this problem about a week ago & have been streaming PS3 since. Instructions: Plug HDMI cable into back of PS3 & the other end of the cable into the input of the splitter, then take another HDMI cable & run it from the output of the splitter into to the input of the HD60, then finally another HDMI cable from the output of the HD60 & into the monitor.
Amazon link to the splitter I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XUFuAbSDNPK5Q
Also: you have to power the splitter by just plugging it in & you need 3 HDMI cables
Hello All-- To play the xbox one x at 4k and record at 1080/60, we can use the gofanco 4ksplittter/scaler. This device is a plug and play from amazon that requires no setup other than just plugging in the hdmi's. Only $55 which is really good considering comparable equipment to get this task done.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HJWF31/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You should try a Component to HDMI adapter. When I switched to the HD60 Pro a while back I picked one up on Amazon from Avermedia. It's pretty inexpensive considering if you found a retro cable for the Elgato you might get over charged.
AVerMedia Video Adapter, Component (YPbPr) to HDMI Output (ET113) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TQ6ZCF2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_bZzgBbQXN7VHN
Its only about $40, which if I can remember the Elgato cable sold for about the same. How ever I'm not sure if it'll work with composite (Which they have a composite one but it's the same price) , I can test it out for you when I get home.
This is what I currently have and it has never given me an issue.
Bonus: Its under $10 USD on Amazon.
The PS3 has HDCP which cannot be turned off. The only workaround is to get an HDMI splitter which will strip the HDCP from the signal. I can confirm that this splitter: https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS will do it but i don't know about other brands.
Uncheck the "Custom resolution" box. It will cause stuttering.
Is there a reason you need 720p from the Pro? Let it be at 1080p, and let OBS handle any downscaling, as the quality will be better.
Also, why a 200 millisecond buffer? The Pro does not need buffering. Just keep the buffer box checked and set it to 0.
Here are some more HD60 Pro specific optimizations and tips for OBS. https://obsproject.com/forum/resources/how-to-optimize-the-hd60-pro-in-obs.283/
Hi There! it happen that i just bought a splitter to be able to stream my older games. So far testing ahead everything work ( dont forget to manually change the audio as marked upward.
Update with some raw footage of what the sound glitch sounds like if doing direct PC sound
Its only on the high sharp edges of sounds, anything lower sounds fine
It would be cool if there was an "insert text" button so you could add special characters like those on this link http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/shortcuts-for-special-characters-on-windows/
Then I could have access to more currency symbols, the copyright sign and others I use in web design and writing articles. Allows me to expand my typing keyboard.
You will need IFTTT plugin and widget setup https://ifttt.com/applets/nZTwFcuX-start-my-sonos-favorite-using-the-button-widget Then streamdeck will active said ifttt button. About 2-3 site permissions have to be setup with Sonos and ifttt.
A url for the ifttt for toggle on and separate for off will be used (toggle on off action)
Expect a 1-5 second delay when using as it has to go through many online services.
Good luck.
If first check if it laptop or computer keyboard has a certain sequence of keys (i.e. hp's are function + f2 or f3, surfave pro is function backspace or del, Lenovo is + f11 or f12)
Alternatively you can use an autohotkey script to change the brightness, just set the trigger to a button on the elgato device. Here are a few script example, some more robust than others, but it's very easy as windows api has a hook for brightness settings. https://autohotkey.com/board/topic/125563-universal-screen-brightness-changer/
http://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp[]=869&cmp[]=2008
I ran a comparison between our CPU's, you can see the issue is pretty apparent. Unfortunately Pentiums are made for rather low processor intensive tasks such as web browsing. To record with an Elgato, especially an HD60S, you need quite a bit more power.
update: here's a black box that appears on the bottom right corner of my screen that wont go away and I Cant get rid of! https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOvpD2umm4nJYS1VcobbRNNPVzuT8z3KytQ84Kv
I uninstalled el gato,rebooted my pc reinstalled el gato,rebooted my PC once again and this shows up:
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipODQfR1hbLhL1v1GF1QpiXoCrIg37677-ivpnBj
even with me not turning the el gato on,it runs in the corner on its own.I have nothing el gato opened in task manager...This is so frustrating!!!! why do i have so many problems! I didn't pay 180.00 to spend hours doing this crap!!!
For my part I'm using OBS and select my Elgato as a video capture device. In OBS settings you can record in mp4 directly (just be sure to have the same 32 or 64 bits version on OBS and Elgato side). This way I don't have any delay to record/export in mp4. https://obsproject.com/
I'm having the same problem and have been troubleshooting it for hours. I came across this thread, which has no resolution as well: https://obsproject.com/forum/threads/elgato-game-capture-hd60.18679/
I tested my much older Hauppauge 1445 HD-PVR just to confirm the issue is with the HD60 or its drivers and I verified the issue does not occur with it.
It appears this issue has been present for quite some time and I don't see Elgato support addressing it. I'm likely going to attempt to return the device soon if this remains to be the case.
RunAsTask - Automatically elevate an AHK script to admin.
Add this to your AHK script, then run it once and accept the UAC prompt. On subsequent runs, the AHK script will auto-elevate.
Sircrest, I followed your advice and ran a test record with just my Elgato Capture input and no overlays, webcam, etc. When idling, cpu usage was anywhere between 9-12% and went as high as 62% during intense gunfights in PUBG. Here's the log file attached for reference : https://hastebin.com/okezekadek Please note that the recording doesn't start until very late in this log session, so be wary of that. As always, I appreciate all the help and support. Many thanks.
Yes, you can. This couple uses two HD60 Pros, in the same PC, in OBS a the same time, for the dual views. :)
This ONLY works with the HD60 Pro. I cannot guarantee that it will work with the HD60 + Pro. That's a bad combo anyways, due to the HD60's latency of 650ms.
The link isn’t working for me though. I looked it up online. Is this it? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Adapter-MUCUNZHEN-Converter-Connector-Output-White/dp/B098VWNZFR/ref=asc_df_B098VWNZFR/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=534973793035&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12095756537282707051&hvpone=&hvp...
Hey,
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I have all the hardware when i connect everything my samsung S8 shows connected to hdmi and then disconnected...it goes on and on forever. Also on elagto software which device do you choose as android is not an option there. please help to resolve the issue of frequent disconnection is it the hdmi splitter issue.
​
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My type c to hdmi is perfect as it works fine when i connect my phone directly to tv using that connector.
Then get one of those Virtual Visa/Master Credits Card and book on it the among you need to pay and then just buy it. It's 2019, you do not need to rob a bank or go underground nowadays to get an CC.
If you are in Europe: https://n26.com/en-us/
IT guy here. If you're getting BSOD(especially on Windows 10) the issue is going to be on your PC. You should do the following:
- Ensure Windows is up-to-date
- Ensure your graphics and motherboard drivers are up-to-date (see your vendor's website for complete details but if you have MSI, for example, you can just use the auto-updater.)
- Run Windows AV full scan
- Download and run Malwarebytes full scan
- Download and run CCleaner. If you do the registry cleanup SAVE YOUR BACKUP FILE.
- Go to startup items and disable anything that isn't totally necessary. Not sure? Disable.
- Analyze installed and running applications for indications of something wrong. Not sure? Check this out. It's a great tool.
If the issue persists after this then you can
- Check the reliability history for details on what crashed
- Check the event log for more details(check YT/Goog for how-to)
- Download and run whocrashed to analyze the dump file (google the error codes and go from there)
Good luck!
You can use nircmd to workaround this. I updated my buttons that were calling batch files to call the batch files via nircmd and it's back to good.
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/nircmd.html nircmd.exe exec hide
I've been using nircmd (http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/nircmd.html) in my batch scripts to play sounds. I used this along w/ the Hue CLI I posted about yesterday to setup a simple Red Alert button that flashes my lights red and plays the Star Trek red alert sound as well as a few other soundboard like sounds, the entry in the batch file is pretty simple (C:\nircmd\nircmd.exe mediaplay 2200 "c:\nircmd\scripts\wubba_lubba_dub_dub.mp3") Nircmd has a lot of other handy functions available as well. I originally stumbled on it when setting up a button to swap my default audio device to my headphones or my speakers.
It is. There is a lot of shame us Macheads have to deal with in regards to Elgato's support and demand of use of their sometimes botched software. I want OBS, I hate we're stuck with theirs.
In our studio we use Hazel a lot to help automate tasks: https://www.noodlesoft.com/
You could have it watch the export tree and pull the clips out and rename them, color code them and more.
Awesome, glad you were able to get that working. Weird that it works that way - I have a 1050 in my streaming rig and it just works by default, though I suppose I didn't upgrade from Win7 on that machine so the upgrade may be what throws thing off.
So the next step is to determine what is getting used where essentially. So first things first, you'll need a free utility called GPU-Z - It's a cool little utility that gives you specifics on your graphics card (including reading all the sensors to give temps and usage information)
Go ahead and quit the Elgato software and install GPU-Z.
Once you have that installed and running, hit the "Sensors" tab at the top. Among other things you should see a field labeled "Video Engine Load" and another one called "PerfCap Reason" - When using your system normally (IE: Not capturing video with your Elgato) you should see the Video Engine Load sitting at 0%, and PerfCap will say "Idle".
Next, fire up Task Manager (Right click your task bar and hit task manager, or Ctrl+Alt+Delete and select task manager) - Hit the "More Details" at the bottom if it's there, and then click on CPU at the top so it sorts the highest CPU using application to the top.
Once you've got both of those up, fire up the Elgato capture software and let me know what you see for the 2 fields on GPU-Z and for your overall processor usage (along with what % is being used by the Elgato capture software)
This is all just general advice, so proceed at your own risk if you don't know what you are doing.
Before you do anything else, make sure your system is compatible.
How to upgrade:
Here's a video that shows you how to create the install media and use it to upgrade.
I've never installed Windows 10 as an upgrade this way, so I'm unsure of when (or if) you'll be prompted to enter the key. If you are not prompted, you'll need to enter it after you log into Windows. You can get to the right place by clicking on the Start Button and typing Activate.
I work in IT and upgraded dozens of machines when they were offering Windows 10 as a free upgrade, so I'm quite curious as to why you didn't upgrade your laptop when it was free?
Mine's doing the same. Tried setting internal EDID/1080p to match my monitor. Set the main monitor to 100Hz just in case... just sits at One Moment Please for a while then eventually shows this 2826x2312p0 not supported
I'm also on Mac, but making the most of the setup I have and holding out hope that Elgato will get the Mac software in parity with Windows. It is kind of silly that there's no macOS driver for the HD60S so it can show up as a source without doing silly window or desktop captures.
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- Scene transitions I've been awaiting for a while now. Even a simple cross-dissolve with adjustable duration would be such an improvement. Support for animated "stinger" transitions with alpha channels would be nice as well.
- The current implantation of layers is very difficult to manage. To adjust a layer, you have to move around layers on top of it in order to reach it. I'd like to be able to add a simple title to each layer ("view count", "alert box" etc) and have a means to easily turn the layer on/off and lock its position. The UI should list the layers in order and allow a simple click of the layer name to select it, and drag/drop to bring forward/back.
- Not really having chroma issues...maybe lighting is a factor?
- I never use Game Capture software to set titles, rather do it manually on the streaming service or set using Restream.io
- Haven't experienced that issue thankfully, but I can imagine how frustrating that would be if you have everything set just right only to have it move around.
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You can use a different editing software on your PC. If you want a free one I recommend Davinci Resolve. It's a much better editing software than the Elgato built in editor
This has happened to me (also when capturing video from analog sources). The thing is that, even though Elgato claims the captures use a constant framerate, they seem not to. So when you encode your captures without changing the framerate from variable to constant, the audio goes out of sync after a little while (and continues to do so).
To fix this, simply use HandBrake to convert your captures to have a constant framerate. Simply drag & drop, select the Video tab, click on Constant Framerate, then Start. The output file will be perfectly synced, even after converting them with VLC or Premiere (if you still need to).
I actually caved and went ahead and bought loopback (LINK) and it actually works beautifully. Soundflower just isn't the solution, I guess.
I tried looking for other paid options, but nothing was doing the trick, unfortunately.
MQTT receive would be awesome indeed. See below for sending to MQTT:
- Install Mosquitto (https://mosquitto.org/download/)
- In Streamdeck - System: Open
- App/File: "C:\Program Files\mosquitto\mosquitto_pub.exe" -h jarvis.gh.int -m "20" -t marantz/in/vol
This will set the volume of my old Marantz reciever (IR via GC-100-12) to -20dB
What do you mean a somehow decent router? I got some random router from my ISP when i upgraded packeges about 3 months ago.... im from SoCal, I get 5-9 ping, 100-150 download, 10-13 upload when i do www.speedtest.net tests...
Unfortunately the Pixel lineup doesn't output HDMI from what I've read. A Google search might be helpful to double check. To Mirror my phone screen I use this application called scrcpy which is a bit of a setup but you can find it here: https://github.com/Genymobile/scrcpy
Ubuntu an debia packages. https://jitsi.org/downloads/
Our web engineer did one up with customized bitrates/ overlay image not too sure i have no knowledge in it however it is WAY faster and solid. Uses about 4-8mbps combined.
My top requests are 1) Standbye mode for when streamdeck hasn't been pressed for X amount of time. 2) Insert Text Button for inserting Yen Symbol ¥ or ℗ for copyright etc 3) some hotkey combinations like shift 8 n don't work. I also can't use Tab+ another key either. Asana.com for example uses this for "delete task" It works on my keyboard, would be great if this could be recorded as an elgato hotkey. See: https://asana.com/guide/help/faq/shortcuts In addition to having it auto detect keystrokes could you also allow people to manually add 2-4 key combinations that the auto detect doesn't seem to properly detect? Like the Tab+ etc issues mentioned above. 4) Would be cool if text label could be added but set to invisible until clicked, and upon click it faded in and then faded out to reveal the buttons purpose. This would encourage you to learn your own custom icons but also give you some additional instant feedback on what it does. 5) Gif support on buttons? or would that wear the buttons out? Thanks, keep up the good work.
So I have set up kinda likw what you are talking about. Going to need long cables. If you use a long usb cable for your web cam would suggest getting to a powered usb hub. Cause after so so many feet the usb can loose power. Amazon will be your best friend getting this stuff the cheapest. AmazonBasics 7 Port USB 2.0 Hub with 5V/4A Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGJR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fWTqBbERJPGGY UGREEN 15 Feet USB 2.0 Extension Cable Active Type A Male to Female Repeater Cord for Printer, Oculus Rift, HTC Vive, Keyboard, Game Console, USB Headset, Loudspeaker, scanners, Security Camera 5M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B2HP2UI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6XTqBbMAWXFG2
Well you can use a component to HDMI converter. I've tested this unit with component devices, including PS3, with the HD60 S and Pro.
The adapter cables for the HD don't use proprietary connectors, but their wiring is unique to the device. So you can't grab any component to A/V-S-Video on Amazon. So you could in theory grab the connections to wire up your own adapter.
Edit: forgot the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ATNIFPA?pf_rd_p=d1f45e03-8b73-4c9a-9beb-4819111bef9a&pf_rd_r=G8VDT5ZBP1HXZF408T92&th=1
I actually just ran into this issue. I ordered this from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BSKT1VD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This will allow you to plug in your headphones into the audio out. I have tested it and it works. If you have any questions, send me a PM!
Will the stream deck be available to buy via Amazon UK? Currently they aren’t offering this product via themselves as it is under review.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06W2KLM3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dhmkDbZCX1WVR
You will need a 4K HDMI switcher/splitter device. This will allow you to switch between devices while also splitting the image out to two different devices at the same time (TV and capture card in this case). Here is a link to one on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MYRX22F/ref=psdc_172546_t1_B017RW073I
Elgato made it as a DVR-like device that with the included software for the Mac could change the channel on your set-top box, and record TV on a schedule. It has Component inputs, and Composite/S-Video via breakout cables. It has hardware accelerated transcoding to H264 onboard and connects to the Mac using USB 2.0. Here’s the Amazon page for the product.
I’m just interested in using it for game capture and don’t care about the other features beyond hardware accelerated Component capture to H264.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BSKT1VD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This will allow you to plug in your headphones into the audio out while still recording the audio in the software
You can also get a splitter like this one here ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J2Q9NPH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) so you don't have to disconnect the HDMI out on your capture card everytime you have your computer off and just want to play a game.
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This way your consoles output will always be mirrored to your TV without having to us the HDMI pass through.
Hey! This is a desktop computer, not a laptop, so at least that's not an issue. I seem to have figured out that all the back ones are the same header, both via testing several configurations before even getting the usb hub (never worked), and taking a look inside. Though I could be mistaken; I am not the most computer-tech-savvy, but that's what my testing has led me to believe. I do believe you mean something like this, and it could seperate a port to make it a different hub, or at least take it away from the motherboard: https://www.amazon.com/Extender-Riser-Express-Adapter-Power/dp/B073RBP3V6
I could use my front usb hubs (two 2.0 and two 3.0, which I assume is separate) but I was saving that as a last-ditch option, as I use those for other things frequently. I assume with this new knowledge, I could use the USB hub on the front with the StreamDeck and the back with the webcam and not run into that issue? Hopefully that would not interfere with other things like controllers and the like that might go into the front.
If you have a desktop it’s your available usb bandwidth.
FebSmart 4 Ports USB 3.0 Super... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072LS4JH7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Buy that put it in and plug the camlink in. I did and it works for me now.
If you have a desktop it’s your available usb bandwidth.
FebSmart 4 Ports USB 3.0 Super... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072LS4JH7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Buy that put it in and plug the camlink in. I did and it works for me now.
FebSmart 4 Ports USB 3.0 Super... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072LS4JH7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Buy that. Put it in your tower. Plug the it into your tower. Plug the usb from the device into it and nothing else.
It’s a bandwidth issue.
Be sure to plug it into a root hub port. Can check online or in your device manager for it.
Also you may not have enough bandwidth (had this with the camlink 4k) in that case you need a PCIe expansion card for USB. I bought this one and only have my camlink in it right now, works fine.
FebSmart 4 Ports USB 3.0 Super... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072LS4JH7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Worst case your out $25, but this is a common issue I’ve found. These devices really do need to have an external power to them if you don’t buy an internal one. Would help with this issue.
Note I have the same mobo, except mines pro-plus WiFi
https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Display-Adapter-Braided-Supports/dp/B07TB2YK6L/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=displayport+to+hdmi&qid=1595864457&sprefix=displa&sr=8-6 You can buy this adapter but as well if financially able too I would recommend getting the the internal 4k60 as well with that said twitch and you tube one so up til 1080, And unless you plan on recording or editing you need a real beast of computer at least 2080ti 64 ram etc .
I use this:
HDMI Splitter 1x2 4K 60Hz 4:4:4 HDR Dolby Vision Dolby Atmos- HDMI Scaler 4K 1080P Sync,Firmware Upgrade HDMI 2.0 Splitter 1 in 2 Out HDCP2.2, Scaler EDID Switch, Aluminum Mini Case, USB Power SP12H2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VP37KMB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YakhFbF9N9E1R
Okay so.....
It is compatible for iPad Pro 2018 (says in the description). The reviews said that it worked perfectly for the Nintendo Switch, Macbooks, Samsung products, and also with the iPad Pro 2018 (connected to a larger display). Hopefully this might work with the Elgato HD60 S.
The reason I dont want to buy the product you suggested earlier is becuase it takes 3 weeks to arrive, and that wont work with me as I dont live in canada and somebody else is bringing it for me, they are arriving prior to that time.
Any other suggestions, is the product above viable?
For reference in case anyone has a similar issue: you can purchase an RCA to HDMI upscaler for $15 on Amazon that seems to get the job done. While it will stretch the image, streaming and video editing programs can "squish" the image back to its proper proportions.
This is all true, unfortunately, using a 3.0 in a 2.0 socket simply means you now have more USB 2.0. The hub is only going to be as fast as the USB socket it is plugged into.
However! If you have a desktop PC, it IS possible to upgrade it with a PCI-E USB 3.0 expansion card which would require you to crack open the case and put it into the expansion card slots. Even most over the counter desktop computers have open slots for expansion.
Here is one on Amazon for $15. It has an optional low profile bracket too in case you have a smaller PC case. Beats buying an entire new computer for sure. There's tons of tutorials on YouTube on how to install these things. Don't let a little computer DIY scare you away if you haven't done it before. :)
This is why I have a splitter on my console. I have one output that goes directly to the Elegato and one that goes to my second monitor. This way if I just want to play and nothing else then I don't have to worry about having my PC on.
I use this one from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J2Q9NPH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Using a thunderbolt 3 cable might be overkill, but this one from Belkin should work well. That's an Amazon link, but you can use the product name to find a local supplier for the same item.
I just worked on this for over an hour, including with Tech Support. Again it worked, then when cables were unplugged/plugged back in, not working. Believe it or not, flipping over the usb-c cable (which isnt supposed to have any polarity) worked. But then it didnt work. So seems to be something to do with USB3 input into the macbook pro. All the MBP ports are thunderbolt 3, so he suggested trying a hub that would allow usb-A 3.0 input into the Thunderbolt 3 port. I have a hub lying around that says usb3 compatible, didnt work! I ordered a new one online from amazon, hoping it would work.
He specifically mentioned the elgato mini dock as a possibility, guess I'll try that too (sigh).
https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Thunderbolt-Mini-Dock-built/dp/B07GS9XM54
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anyone else had these issues interfacing with a mac?
I just worked on this for over an hour, including with Tech Support. Again it worked, then when cables were plugged back in, not working. Believe it or not, flipping over the usb-c cable (which isnt supposed to have any polarity) worked. But then it didnt work. So seems to be something to do with USB3 input into the macbook pro. All the MBP ports are thunderbolt 3, so he suggested trying a hub that would allow usb-A 3.0 input into the Thunderbolt 3 port. I have a hub lying ariound that says usb3 compatible, didnt work! I ordered a new one online from amazon, hoping it would work.
He specifically mentioned the elgato mini dock as a possibility, guess I'll try that too (sigh).
https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Thunderbolt-Mini-Dock-built/dp/B07GS9XM54
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anyone else had these issues interfacing with a mac?
I kind of had the same people. It turns out that my laptop has USB 3.0 port but it doesn't power devices. So it won't power my HD60s. So I had to buy a usb c to usb c cable that deliveries power. So I bought the anker powerline from Amazon. Got it this morning and it works.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01EMIIFCU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Hopefully that helps you out
You’ll need an external mic plugged directly into your PS4. I run the same setup and I use this and it works pretty well. Haven’t had anyone complain besides being to quiet which you can just turn it up.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00840353W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's this card. I got it a few years ago not too sure why the price is what it is I got it for way cheaper than that. But you can see in the images the A/V in I'm talking about.
How do I tell which type I have exactly. I know it's a 3.2 gig processor 3470, with 8gb DDR3 RAM. I was looking at this to upgrade my graphics card, as I need a low profile card in my PC
MSI Gaming GeForce GT 710 2GB GDRR3 64-bit HDCP Support DirectX 12 OpenGL 4.5 Single Fan Low Profile Graphics Card (GT 710 2GD3 LP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DOFD0G8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sJYZDb507ATZH
ah shit we thinking about the same thing! A sort of lame way of doing it would be to to align the capture feed window on the main screen then capturing and converting to grey scale etc within specified region of main screen.
Have you been working on this further? what pitfalls have you encountered? right now I'm looking at https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Game-Capture-HD60-PlayStation/dp/B01DRWCOGA/ref=asc_df_B01DRWCOGA/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309776868400&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12556503668729448460&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9020758&hvtargid=pla-362861600548&psc=1
I researched and asked on Reddit, I was suggested a splitter.
Tolmnnts HDMI Splitter 1 In 4 Out Powered by AC Adapter, Supports 4K@30Hz 3D Full HD1080P, Compatible with Xbox PS3 PS4 Fire Stick Roku Blu-Ray Player HDTV - 1 Input To 4 Outputs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078Z5KPBL/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_zgb4DbH0752M7
Here is the item you're referring to, right? https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Game-Capture-PlayStation-Definition/dp/B00840353W/
I currently have one from Walmart that is just a 3 port and one that is a 7 port that I had gotten from Amazon and have had no problems so far. But I did get a protection plan just encase.
ASUS MB169B+ 15.6" Full HD 1920x1080 IPS USB Portable Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013XFJKGI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jd85CbR7SRYGS. Not sure. If you did have buget what it woud be but this is just another idea. Not sure if the ps4 will power this.
That looks good! Would an Anker 3.0 hub work?
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Does this kind of hub just work on its own? No need for other USB ports Or is it powered by another, already in there USB port? Because if that's how it works, I think I only have 2.0s.
You hear a loud buzz in the recordings? Sounds like a simple ground loop issue. PS4 is not grounded, PCs are. When you connect an analog cable in between them, it causes a ground loop which causes buzzing.
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If I'm correct in my assumptions, there are 2 solutions to this:
1) If your aux cable is connected to your PS4 controller, make sure it's wireless. If the PS4 controller is plugged into the PS4 via USB it will pass through the ground loop.
2) If wireless controller isn't an option, or the aux cable is plugged into the PS4 itself using some sort of HDMI audio extractor, you'd simply need a ground loop isolator - they're 10 bucks: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ground+loop+isolator&qid=1556058688&s=gateway&sr=8-3
You might be getting some feedback from an aux input, I had a similar problem when I was running a dual card setup to record and stream at the same time on xbox. Im on PC now and I still use this, it works great!
If your computer has a pcie slot you try something like this maybe. FebSmart 4 Ports USB 3.0 Super Fast 5Gbps PCI Express(PCIe) Expansion Card for Windows Server, XP,7,Vista,8,8.1,10 PCs-Build in Self-Powered Technology-No Need Additional Power Supply(FS-U4-Pro) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072LS4JH7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9lVOCb57A7MD4 Dont have any experience with it. So cant say if it will work or not. Just a idea.
Sorry but I need one more just to be sure and then I will definitely look for a desktop but would you think this one will do the trick?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FF5RLWN/ref=psdc_13896615011_t1_B07FCRYHHN
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXFJANY/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGKYS6E/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Can vouch for these. I have some other longer ones that I need more time testing over a few weeks or months to make sure they're reliable.
Ah, well I would include such details in the post haha.
I don’t believe there’s an external option for 4K (if there is I’m sure it’s very expensive). Your best bet is just replace your splitter. I’ve had very good experiences with both J-Tech & OREI splitters. Never had one not work & use them daily.
Here’s a J-Tech with the EDID option you need: J-Tech Digital Scaler/Multi-Resolution Output (MRO) 18GBps 1x2 HDMI 2.0 Splitter HDR10/Dolby Vision 4K@60Hz 4:4:4 [JTECH-18GSP12M] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F7M1SQL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l25NCbTME2N9Q
Yep, that doesn't work. In order for 4K to work, EVERYTHING downstream, from console to display needs to be 4K capable. The splitter you posted is just a splitter rated for 4K HDR. The Xbox is still seeing both displays connected to it and displaying the lowest common denominator.
An active spliter would be processing the downscaling itself, marking it the "end of the line" as far as the Xbox was concerned. And being a 4K device would enable that option.
Something similar to this is what you are looking for:
https://www.amazon.com/Echo-Split-HDMI-Splitter-Downscaling/dp/B07DWK3PQ9
This is what I have atm. I connect via ethernet but does not connect to the light
So that looks exactly like one of the things that I tried at first.
enKo YPbPr Component RGB + R/L to HDMI Converter v1.3 up Scaler for 720p 1080p https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F6913GC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vOxDCbQ9HVQGR
And for whatever reason the sound worked but then the video was all green. I ordered this and it worked the day after it didn’t work the first try, but it never worked after so I returned it and ordered another thinking it was defective but unfortunately it still had issues. I think company’s buy a bunch of cheap electronics and slap their name on it, so it’s most likely the exact same product just a different name. Give it a shot and let me know if it works for you, but if not return it and try the seawell!
Edit: To add, not to say the picture was all green, it's just that the colors weren't right. So when you get this product i'd recommend looking at the picture directly through component to hdmi into your elgato HD60 (Since it will show the picture fine, just not the sound) screenshotting it, and then trying the Component upscaler and compare. Or maybe try a PS2 game you're very familiar with, I tested on a game I had never played at first so I thought the colors just looked like that until I popped in a game I was familiar with.
You need a splitter that actually downscales the picture to the HD60S.
Something similar to this should work:
https://www.amazon.com/Echo-Split-HDMI-Splitter-Downscaling/dp/B07DWK3PQ9
Wow that link did not age well. Idk what that thing is it was linking to. Try this one: Kingtop 3.5mm Combo Audio Adapter Cable for PS4,Xbox One S,Tablet,Mobile Phone,PC Gaming Headsets and New Version Laptop https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I3A47I4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vDorCbHSFHYNY
This is actually the one I used: MillSO Headset Adapter CTIA 3.5mm Y Splitter Headphone Jack Splitter Adapter (3.5mm 4 Pole TRRS Male to 2 x 3 Pole Female) Compatible for Xbox One, PS4, PC, Tablet, Laptops, Phone - 12inch/30CM Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C9D2WCK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CLorCbK69B8CY
you can always go with the el gato hd 60 and this splitter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HJWF31/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I play in 4k60fps and my el gato hd60 records in 1080p 60fps.
There are USB-C Cables that can only work at USB2 speeds, which will not work with the HD60S. Many USB-C charging leads are USB2 Speed ones. The Cable in the box Elgato should work with box. If you need a replacement cable, Look for 5GB/s under the description: Example cable that should work, not tested myself: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Syncwire-USB-3-0-Type-Cable/dp/B01C8BFHW4/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1546376430&sr=8-9&keywords=usb+C
I use this avedio links HDMI Switch with... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KGMPW3C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share with a pc ps4 xbox one and nintendo switch. Examples here https://www.twitch.tv/videos/372050975 watch out for early kh spoilers though.
Maybe try getting a dummy display so the cam link thinks that something is connected at all times.
Link: HDMI Pass-Through EDID Emulator for use with Video splitters, Switches and Extenders (fit-Headless) 1920X1080@59hz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C8BHPD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oLgjCbH8NWX59
You would have a HDMI cable from the “Sink” end to the Cam Link and a HDMI extender (or coupler) to your camera HDMI cable plugged into the “source” end of this adapter
Did you ever figure this out?
I'm using the xbox one x and I will be getting this monitor: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01BV1XBEI/ref=crt_ewc_title_oth_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AUJBRIGYRJ3Q8
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Plus I'm using HDMI 2.0. Can I play at 120hz and still streaming using HD60s?
Isnt elgato hd60 pro the model? , it's this one though https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Game-Capture-HD60-Pro/dp/B014MQIVPS/ref=asc_df_B014MQIVPS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312157424538&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1165903175190224054&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=...
And I'm using game capture the elgato software