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The coating is very similar to what Blue Gauntlet has on their grips. Not quite as aggressive as the LP Gryptonite coating, though you could very easily do that by multi-coating.
For those who want to do their own, I used what's called a "wrinkle paint". In this case it is VHT Wrinkle Plus. You can click on the Amazon link or you could go to an auto parts store, though they'll likely only have black. I only did a single coat application.
All the direction you need is on the can. For the cure you can bake in an oven or use a heat gun. The most crucial element before you spray is that your grip is bare metal and CLEAN. It needs to be cleaned off with a powerful solvent like acetone or at least something like isopropyl (rubbing alcohol) because any residues or oils will screw with the adhesion of the paint.
This is what most of us US armorers have found to be the most reliable way to get a damaged screw out:
https://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-Transverse-Cutter-1773597/dp/B0052XQYVO
The nibs at the end are fine enough to get around any bit of the screw that is still exposed, and strong enough to get a secure grip that will allow you to turn it.
Apparently, we're up to version 2.5
Long Lacrosse Equipment Bag or as I call it a "(Club) Fencing Bag"��
Personally I love the Ascics Gel Domain 3. They're a great pair of volleyball shoes that fit me very well considering I have low arches, and grip amazingly on strip. They're fairly cheap at about $70 but they'll last you a long time. Here's the link: Ascis Gel Domain 3
Y'all are all way too focused on translating fencing to a fighting game. Think of a fencing club simulator in the vein of Fiz or Tennis Club Story where you can upgrade your club, hire coaches, set training regimens for your fencers, and then let an AI fencing system determine the results. The FIE Swordplay app demonstrated a lot of the problems with a real-time input system a la fighting games - so just remove that part entirely. Make it a management game about training for the big tournaments every year, trying to maximize your periodization, and balancing your non-competitive but paying club members with your elite squads.
I wore high top shoes for a couple of years, to try to battle a serial ankle rolling problem, but found they didn't help at all.
I also got one of these, and wore it when healing from sprains, and it definitely prevented further damage to the injured ankle: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0027VKR5S
What really helped was exercises to work on strength and stability.
I stored all my fencing gear in a golf case like this (https://www.amazon.com/SKB-2SKB-4814W-Deluxe-Golf-Travel/dp/B000A13PGA/ref=sr_1_7?_encoding=UTF8&c=ts&dchild=1&keywords=Golf+Travel+Covers&qid=1624670004&s=golf&sr=1-7&ts_id=3411161) It held 2 sabres, 1 mask, whites, gloves, chest protector, undarm protector and multiple mask and body cords.
If you cant get the case in time you should store your mask and electric stuff in a carry-on and store your blades in the soft bag with the rest of your whites to be checked. This is how I used to store when I still had my soft bag with wheels but the wheels got ripped off on the flight back home...
Just curious, what weapon do you fence? Good luck!
You may want to read the comment I replied to.
>A relevant book on the topic which I recommend: "fear is the mind killer" by Kaha Sadowski -has some very good tips on creating a solid club culture.
I find it's always the little screws that are the limiting factor, so I end up with a lot of all the other parts that are useless without. So if that's the case, you can buy M2x5mm screws (I got mine here: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HD3R67K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and they've worked with the various random buttons I have. May help stretch what you have on hand.
A. go to HomeDepot, (or whatever you have where you are) and get a piece of tubing, (pex, or abs, or pvc) so you will have it covered.
B. Sometimes, if you order/buy several blades from a vendor, they will put them in a long poly sleeve: SAVE THOSE! Use for this protection.
C. Putting a tube, or sleeve over your blades in your bag does slow down the rusting, but mainly, covering the blades that are in a bag with sweaty clothes is doing more to protect your sweaty clothes from rust stains: if you leave them all in the trunk of your car long enough, those blades will still rust...like 5-6 days, instead of 2-3, but still...
D. Buy some 10 gallon Ziploc bags "XL", they come 4 to a box, and have handles, and are pretty thick plastic; seal your wet whites in there, and then you can just yank it out of your fencing bag when you get home. Found on Amazon, but have at many home and Wal-mart/Target type stores
E. as for the actual rust, I recommend using wire brush and/or steel wool over sandpaper.
Play ON!
I'd remove the cardio unless it's some kind of HIIT.
But if your looking for a solid weightlifting program, I would go for nsuns 531 LP, there's a nice app for it.
And try get someone to teach you power cleans or Olympic lifting, I'm sure there should be an Olympic lifting class nearby, some are linked to crossfit, but I would just never do crossfit and just learn the power clean or whatever other variation of power lift is good for you from them and don't go back there again.
If you really want go go all out on improving your fencing outside of fencing classes , do some plyo works and the best resource for that Is the vertical jump bible
There is a fourth option: a hard-case for golf clubs (like this). I got one after our original fencing bag eventually ripped to shreds. We'd hoped it would be safer for airline travelling. Turns out we had knickers stolen on one flight, but otherwise the case held up fine and protected the equipment.
That said, we have since gone back to a soft-sided fencing bag (with wheels), just because the golf case was too bulky for everyday use.
Even for an NCAA team it can vary drastically. There's a position at Lafayette available as the head coach. Masters degree preferred, part time, no benefits.
To those who can't see the games:
Download a free VPN (like ProtonVPN which I downloaded)
Connect it to USA and open incognito mode in whatever browser you're using.
Go to NBC Olympics website to watch. They ask you to sign up after 30 minutes. This is when you clear the cookies in the browser and close the tab and then switch the VPN to another location in America, and go to the NBC website again.
That's how I got to watch both of medal matches yesterday.
Kind of a different recommendation from others, but I am a huge fan of One Touch at a Time by Kogler. Completely changed my mental game for fencing and kept me from quitting when I was in a slump. If I remember correctly, there is some stuff about yoga and maybe some about tennis, you can skip over those parts if you want, but I still found them helpful for fencing.
I use a plastic guard inside the cloth mask to prevent the wet material from sucking into my mouth when exercising. It improves my ability to breathe after the mask gets wet tremendously.
Something like this, although not this exact one: https://www.amazon.com/Comfortable-Breathing-Internal-Protector-Translucent/dp/B08D7KNCCF/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=lipstick+guard&qid=1618956684&sr=8-5
Li Ning Saga badmintion shoe. Good quality, good grip, low height and low pitch angle, good cushion for lunging, amazing value for that much money. Fit is a bit narrower than Asics, something between Asics and Babolat, which IME run quite narrow.
I found This Is Fencing well worth reading. https://www.amazon.com/This-Fencing-Advanced-Performance-Principles/dp/1785005952/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=this+is+fencing&qid=1605931569&sr=8-3
I think there are two options (I haven't tried either one):
[https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=betton.escrime.smartpoule](SmartPoule), which seems to work with a BellePoule server. Free software.
[https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.fencing.sports.score]("Fencing Tournament"), which seems to be standalone. The reviews aren't great and it needs more permissions. Proprietary.
Drug stores with foot care or skin care products. Big stores that carry the same products (Wal-Mart, Target, etc) likely also have them.
The best tape I've found for coverage where you want to prevent blisters is strapping tape, which is a stiffer, more sticky version of athletic tape. Leukotape P Amazon link
Did you try Riposte for Android? This is the one I liked best, but I used it mainly for keeping track of bouts I spectated when I could not see the box rather than actual refereeing.
Who you calling ugly?
But En Garde does lack custom bout length and player names. The screenshots and app description also seem to be outdated. Maybe I should fix those.
If you need to borrow some code (e.g., "card tracking", which is trivial), feel free to (as long as you respect the license) from https://github.com/ethanmad/En-Garde.
Seriously one of the best things I've stumbled upon for keeping gear fresh is glove dogs and shoe bags.
Glove Dogs are intended for boxing and hockey gloves but I use them in my fencing shoes. Essentially, they act like a dessicant and dry out your shoes. The end result is your shoes dry quickly and therefore don't stink up your bag. And, drier shoes mean your shoes just last longer.
Additionally, keep those shoes in a shoe bag and not in with your sweaty post-practice gear.
Ugh, the Apex uniform. Great gear but the fabric is infuriatingly stubborn when it gets stained, no matter what the stain is. I own 2 sets for 5+ years now and here’s what I’ve learned:
- Bleach barely works. The main fabric of the uniform, despite what some say, is incredibly tough. However, the material of the surrounding components; the braces, and the elastic cuffs on the bottom of knickers are not. They are somewhat flimsy to begin with (especially the braces), and the bleach degrades the material pretty quickly. Your cuffs will begin lose their elasticity and you’ll start to look like a mime.
I only use bleach as spot treatment, and honestly it barely works.
​
- For your stains, which this has happened to me before, and other stains, I’d recommend Mrs. Stewart’s blueing whitener which is pretty gentle to all the fabric. Oxi-Clean works as well, but it’s a bit harsher. Not as harsh as regular bleach, but I’d say use sparingly.
​
- I fence 2-3x a week, and on average I wash my knickers every 3 weeks and my jackets every 2. For an average wash I use just use Woolite, on a ‘gentle’ cycle. I use the Mrs. Stewart’s once every couple months to keep them from looking dingy. Let them hang dry if possible, as the heat from the dryer will also breakdown the elastic in the braces and cuffs.
​
For your particular problem, I’d start with soaking it in Stewart’s and whatever regular detergent you use for at least 10 minutes, then wash. If that doesn’t work, same process but with Oxi-Clean. Last resort: make a paste with bleach mixed with some baking soda and scrub the individual spots with a toothbrush. Let sit for 5-10 then wash.
Sadly there’s no silver bullet, but the above method does work out the best for me, even if the results are often mixed. Good luck!
They have sockets that are designed to dig into the metal. Probably at your local hardware store. Something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/THINKWORK-Extractor-Stripped-Remover-Removal/dp/B0869BR8MG/ . I am sure they have something smaller. If not, drill it out later and use a stripped screw remover. Good luck
We had the same issue with club body wires, so I bought a whole load of velcro cable ties and that seems to have done the trick.
If you're wearing a knee brace that's slipping down from being worn while fencing then it is probably too loose. I've used two different types of knee braces: one that used straps (one above the knee cap and one below) for manually adjustable compression and I've used sleeves. The one with straps never moved because I could control the tightness. The sleeve ones could slip. I recently purchased one that is pretty long and also has some patterned stripes of soft rubber on the interior. This one (<--SFW Amazon link) does not slip very much thus far, but it is pretty long. When in doubt about slippage, size down one.
You can do a basic body cord functional test using an LED box. And that's what I'd recommend for the vast majority of people. For foil, the alligator clip and thin pin will signal the epee light on a test box.
You can use a stackable banana test cord to help short wire and test with a multimeter. https://smile.amazon.com/Sumnacon-Stackable-Silicone-Multimeter-Electrical/dp/B07179VF5J/
There aren't many options for the full functional test boxes. There's the A6 test box, which is about $250. There's some other options in the works, but that's also going to be a $200+ price point.
I bought one from Amazon UK to my grandma. It was really light weight and foldable electric wheelchair. The battery life is good, no complaints. Then I also recommended the same for my friend in Paris for her grandmom, thanks to seller to deliver across EU and UK thru FedEx. It's called Mobiplus X3 electric wheelchair
Mobiplus X3 Electric wheelchair Amazon UK
Mobiplus X3 Fauteuil roulant électrique Amazon FR
PS: this is not affiliate link.
>Other methods to try??
Elastic self-adherent bandage wrap. The same stuff one would use to wrap finger(s) under a glove can be used to wrap fingers together over a glove. Get the glove inspected and stamped if required and then wrap away. It takes seconds.
It goes on and comes off fast and can be wound tighter or looser as needed. It's fairly strong but easy to tear to the desired length. It's an inexpensive disposable / consumable and comes in pretty colors.
You should buy a cheap Ohmmeter.
You can get one for like $5. You don't need anything fancy, but just something that can measure the conductivity between things.
I don't know where you live, but heres one on UK amazon for <£1
Maybe buy one that will actually get delivered in a reasonable time, but my point is that you don't need a fancy one.
Pretty much everything you need to check can be diagnosed with that. You just check which parts conduct and which parts don't.
I used ASICS with a gel sole, then I had problems with my heel (calcaneal spur). extra soles didn't help, so I moved to these shoes:
Now I use them everyday, not just for fencing
+1 on the Gel Rockets. Comfortable, good grip and reasonably priced. I'd also recommend heel cups if you're fencing on an unforgiving surface.
I'd also recommend heel cups like these: https://www.amazon.com/Tulis-Heavy-Duty-Heel-Green/dp/B000MSZT7O
I've purchased this one and it really helped me.
I found that the gel inserts did close to nothing other than move around abit in the shoe.
I like to use Zap-a-Gap for epees and Zap CA for foil blades.
I really like the little single use mini tubes of Zap-a-Gap. Very handy to carry in your fencing bag for popped wires. When someone comes to the armory table at a tournament with a popped wire, I just give them a tube and tell them to fix it themselves.
Pacer Technology (Zap) Single Use Mini Tube Adhesives (5 Piece)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GB0SFT6/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_JK5VSAJ6R86BSHVGXJZ3
Found these on Amazon
I'd use something like this, I'm sure you could find it/smth similar cheaper elsewhere (probably in a hardware store even) but i like it. It gets used up like an eraser so it conforms to the shape of the blade and takes loose rust/particles with it
The Uhlmann is definitely the Wurth. In the US, I use Sandflex: https://smile.amazon.com/Sandflex-Tool-Cleaning-Block-Med/dp/B000GACLA6/ref=sr\_1\_5?crid=JVMTQEGFEMF6&keywords=sandflex+sanding+block&qid=1652731888&sprefix=sandflex+%2Caps%2C120&sr=8-5
Just adding to others, drill 2 holes one about 2 inches above the other. Get a looped bungee cord with the ball and shove it in the lower hole. Feed until the loop comes out of the upper hole. This part might take a screwdriver or something. Take the ball end of the bungee cord through the loop and then pull tight.
Something like these on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09B73TX2N/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_4FFAJ8JQASWTV6K8BGCG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
just found some stuff on Amazon looks to be what I need ESUPPORT 16ft 5M U Shape Car Door Moulding Rubber Scratch Protector Strip Edge Guard Trim Seal White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z7DWK8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GY80GYDRPS50MTY5GYAT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 and if it's not it was only ten bucks
Rather than modify the jaws of your vise, consider buying a set of soft vise jaw protectors. Many of them already have “V” shaped notches cut into them for holding round shapes.
DEF 4" Vise Jaws Pads with magnetic, Soft Vice Jaws Cover, Multi-Purpose Protector for Any Metal Bench Vice, Set of 2, inch, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q3GL9QM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6YRHKVJMXNG0BEHPAB61
I'm talking about using switch cleaner (Servisol Super 10 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000KEB6WW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_3PM581YS1FZZJJY6M49W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 ) or contact cleaner (Simply SP-028 Electrical Contact Cleaner Maintenance Spray 400m https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00OCKZT1E/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_JW8TDMWBQ3JR9QAZQMB2 ) Both are isopropyl based, remove grease, are safe on nylon so don't damage your cup plug or tip (unlike acetone based cleaners) and have been used by me or other armourers in the UK without issue. I'm not talking oil, or - God forbid - WD40, this is stuff for low voltage electrical items that I've used professionally for the last twenty years on a variety of circuits and equipment.
I have these for cycling. They're £20 and come with clear lenses and an attachable frame for prescription glasses. You'd just need to get some prescription lenses that fit the frame.
Are you using an ohmmeter to test or a simple LED test box? The cheap LED test boxes will still light up at resistances that would be high enough to cause issues with a scoring box (they're mainly useful for doing weight & shim checks on weapons that are otherwise good). For armory work you want either an analog ohm meter with a X1 range (like this: https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-GMT-318-Multimeter-Function/dp/B00291X79O/), or a digital meter with autoranging. Being able to see the actual resistance in a piece of equipment is important for correctly diagnosing it and catching incipient problems before they start affecting a scoring box.
When you try to convert an epee with a Visconti grip to a Russian grip, the blade tang will be too short. The Russian grip is meant to be a clunk of aluminum that you can modify to your preference.
What I do is to use a special drill bit with a pilot point to deepen the counterbore hole. In the USA, you can get the bit online.
DEWALT DWA1228 7/16" Pilot Point Industrial Cobalt Drill Bit
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015J5HSXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VVPBXAY3MW3KANPNTJKC
The negative to deepening the counterbore hole is that any new blade tang will always have to be cut to the same length.
You could drill the hole deeper, but you'll probably want to have an end-mill bit rather than a standard drill bit, since you'll want the bottom of the hole to be flat instead of cone-shaped. Something like this would work if you have access to a drill press or something that can hold a tool like that.
With certains of my fencers, after training and recording the post-practice bouts, I use Planchet Tracker app (on Android) https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=cz.riposte.planchettracker You also use a "what about you" helping paper you can download at this address if I remember well http://www.howtofenceepee.com/ But exercises, collective lessons and solo lessons will inform you the most. And don't forget the discussions with other fencer and in particularly your Maître d'armes ;)
Get some skin-safe doublesided tape like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09555415Q
Put a couple of inches across the bridge of the nose part of the mask. Your mask won't move all day, and you can lift the bottom to eat or drink something.
I bought a piece of this (the 1” polyethylene) and cut it in half to make two targets, but you could use it as one larger target as well. I had some heavy “pleather” (fake leather) fabric scraps that I covered the foam with using Super 77 spray adhesive and used double sided gorilla mounting tape to attach it to my basement wall. I cut out a circle of contrasting pleather material for the target area and glued to the center of the target.
You could also make a super cheap version that does a projected line on the floor. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Viper-Laser-Throw-Line-Marker/dp/B00FRMHZJA/, but with a swivel. I think that would be pretty affordable at the club level.
>A question about proper point control with a pistol grip: I would say I am a beginner fencer and have recently started to move to using pistol grip more than french. I keep getting confused by people talking about the proper way to hold a pistol grip and how to then use finger and thumb to get good point control. At the moment, I feel like I am moving the blade by just relaxing or applying pressure with my thumb (like this), while I thought you were supposed to maintain a grip with your index finger and thumb and move the point like that.
>
>I have also been told that you usually have your thumb bent, but this feels quite hard to do with my grip. Especially since this thing gets in my way when I am trying to move my thumb forwards. Top view: here Side view: here
>
>I can't tell if it is a problem with the grip, with my technique or something else. Let me know what you think!
>
>Thanks!
It looks like you are holding the grip correctly - the grip may or may not be the correct size for you (especially since it seems your thumb is a significant distance back from the guard), but the placement of the thumb & fingers relative to each other and the features of the grip are correct.
As for moving the blade with only the digits, as with a disengage or coupé (also called a "cut-over" - basically, a disengage by moving the point in the upward direction, as opposed to the traditional downward direction), it may help to think of the motion of the digits as similar to the "money gesture"/"'pay me' gesture", like you might see in old gangster movies, with the thumb moving forward (away from you) & the fingers moving backward (toward you) to move the point downward for a disengage, and the thumb moving backward (toward you) & the fingers moving forward (away from you ) to move the point upward for a coupé.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F2ZYKPS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ive been using this and its been working really good, but theres a couple other ones from similar sellers. I do foil but i wrap my sword in a long dish towel and throw it in with the rest of my gear. Everything lookin pretty good.
The club I go to now has something like this. Not sure the exact it that they have but hey have a couple. You might luck out if there are any clothing stores near you that are going out of business.
The club I go to now has something like this. Not sure the exact it that they have but hey have a couple. You might luck out if there are any clothing stores near you that are going out of business.
As noted, the Belgian pistol grips generally require a longer blade tang to be mounted. In this situation, I usually deepen the counterbore hole in the new grip using what is known as a pilot hole drill bit.
The tip of the drill bit is smaller than the rest of the bit and actually fits inside the through hole of the grip. The rest of the drill bit is flat. Using this drill bit will keep the bottom of the counterbore hole nice and flat.
Beware that the this drill bit isn’t cheap. I would only recommend it to someone who is already an armorer or just likes to collect tools. It will also require that you also use a electric drill with plenty of torque to be able spin the drill bit and cut aluminum. I usually end up using my ancient corded 3/8” drill to get the job done.
You will also need a good bench vise to hold the grip while you’re drilling the hole. The drill bit may get jammed during the drilling process.
In the past, I’ve found that most counterbore holes in pistol grips are 7/16” diameter. Here’s a link to finding the drill bit online. Your big box hardware store may not have it in stock.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015J5HSXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_9B6EA1FDDPRYJJXN4BQX
If you change pistol grip types and find that the blade tang is too long, consider using a outside hex pommel during your initial tryout period. If you’ve shorten the blade tang and find out that the new grip is not to your liking, you’ve not going to be able to go back to your original grip.
In addition, you may need to cut additional threads on the tang too.
I double layer.
1st compression socks
2nd soccer socks - adidas Traxion Premier Soccer Socks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D9KFSB4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_ND90HMDPCY80AV3T89FT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
'The art of foil fencing', isn't really just dated, so much as a really shallow view of what fencing is. There are dozens of books almost exactly like this, mostly lists of moves, a fairly shallow description of what they are exactly, and not much more.
Conversely, "Understanding fencing" is an incredibly dense book. Written very academically - I have a copy at my desk here. I was looking for an ebook for it, but I can't find one.
It deals with all sorts of things, like timing, tactics, motivation, training cycles etc.
Here's an example of his writing so you can get a sense:
https://www.wbc.poznan.pl/Content/127605/4_Czajkowski_REV.pdf
This book:
Is written by Ziemowit Wojciechowski, one of Czajkowski's students, and definitely a world-class coach (He produced Richard Kruse a former world number 1, as well as James Davis, a former world top 8). It's much more approachable and is a very good book too.
I was browsing kindle books on fencing to see if there's anything worth reading.
Has anyone read "Fencing you in" by Cheyenne McCray?
You might try one of those soft foam cervical collars like https://www.amazon.com/Bilt-Rite-Mastex-Health-Cervical-Collar/dp/B00KCEG3A0/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=Cervical+collar&qid=1639354384&sr=8-17
If you can get it to fit under your jacket collar it there shouldn't be a way for a blade to slide under it and it goes up pretty high. Not much protection against penetration from a broken blade but might suffice against impact from tips.
The entire thesis of Epee 2.5 is that the opposite is true. That fencing is an athletic sport, not a collection of poses, and that the better athletically trained fencers will win.
Not really, but if you want the discount you have one whole month! Seems a bit shady.
I normally leave my weapons at the club or use a light bag to carry a few back and forth. For competitions or travel I use a big hard shell golf case, like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AUB58
I've had the same one for 20 years. They don't get torn up like fabric bags and they're better protection for equipment on an airline. In the US in my experience you don't get charged extra for them unless they're over 50 lb.
I wonder how a fencing-specific version of this would sell? Customize the inside with bags to hold uniforms, etc.
Check out A Basic Foil Companion It's a fairly easy read, and it's a good book to read along with his fencing classes - it was written as exactly that - a companion.
8 for fencing. Different sports have different rules for the host nation. See, for example, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japan_at_the_2020_Summer_Olympics.
David and Karim have been speculating about how Japan may use the 8 qualifying spots for fencing in their excellent podcast: https://www.buzzsprout.com/525385.
So a while ago, I tried to initiate a fencing club survey to get info about the industry. After talking it through with some people, I think that it makes more sense to attack this problem from the other direction - the fencers themselves. It'll take a lot more responses to be useful, but I think its good info to have about the business of fencing clubs in the US.
So I put together what I think is the most simple possible survey: https://airtable.com/shrDe5dZnpVwMsU5T
If you want to fill it out right now, cool beans. But what I'm really looking for here is some feedback on the survey itself - the questions, content, how likely people will be to fill it out, etc.. I'll probably make a push to share it en masse later.
A lot depends on the kind of knee problems you have: arthritis, meniscus damage, or ligament damage among others. They call for different degrees of stabilization and support, and that in turn will help determine what kind of brace you need. You may also need to adjust your workout routine to reduce the impact on your knees.
I use a brace with an intermediate level of support (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08MVQ8LZ6) and it's made a big difference in the amount of swelling and pain I get when fencing.
Finally, I think it's very valuable to see a physical therapist or other specialist who can identify the causes of your knee problems and prescribe stretches and exercises to mitigate them. Sometimes pain in the knees can be caused by tightness or weakness elsewhere.
It's hard to make a good recommendation as we all face different degrees of joint issues as we age. What works for one person may not be enough for another or overkill for another.
I wear this style which is not very bulky, but is supportive enough to prevent the knee pain I was getting.
This one has never done me wrong and the adjustable fit makes it so it doesn't pinch on my thigh or anything. I would definitely ask your doctor which one they recommend for your specific needs though.
Understanding Fencing by Zbigniew Czajkowski (Amazon link)[https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Fencing-Zbigniew-Czajkowski/dp/0965946886] is much more worthwhile. The discussion of actions and their definitions/tactical purposes is incredibly important
I like reading about stuff too. If I wanted to read about foil I'd look at these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1785005952
https://www.amazon.com/dp/0965946827
Stay away from anything by Evangelista, he's way out of touch with modern fencing.
And of course take lessons and watch videos and so on, but reading about stuff is nice too.
Have fun!
I've liked my Balestras, but my feet haven't grown in a while. If you've still got growing to do they probably aren't worth the cost, you'll outgrow them well before they wear out. Indoor soccer shoes work great. You want something low profile that still has some cushion, and preferably a slightly rolled heel.
Regardless of which shoes you buy, I use heel cups (link below), particularly when I fence saber. They are cheap and save your heel from a lot of the discomfort that can be caused by aggressive footwork in low profile shoes. Put one in the shoe of your lead foot (right foot for right handed). They feel a little weird at first, but break-in in a bout or two. When you crack one, toss it and pop in another.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002AHF3OO/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_4A5GKNB4FZRXPY40XTMG
It's due to the design of the shoes, at least on the last model of Stabils.
The Stabils have/had a sock design with a pleather shell and a plastic support that comes up around the heel of the shoe. The laces pass through the plastic support at the last 2 eyelets and as a result the laces chafe against the plastic and break - very, very quickly.
Honestly, I don't use mine because I've already replaced the laces like 4 times.
For popped wires, I like to use the Zap-a-Gap mini tubes. When you people bring me a blade at a tournament with a popped wire, I give them a tube of glue, loan them a tensioner and let them do the repairs. Afterwards, they toss the tube way.
The glue will always be fresh and do a good job.
Pacer Technology (Zap) Single Use Mini Tube Adhesives (5 Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GB0SFT6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_82C54X539EZ5H7PJKRSW
I started using this 2-part self mix epoxy after I saw LP epees wired with epoxy. It works great, but sadly I'm now sensitized to epoxy so I have to use something else. Usually just CA (superglue).
I'm in Texas. If you can't buy it in Mexico DM me and we'll see if we can figure something out.
I'll Bite
But like many I would preface this like many others have said....learning from a book is sub-optimal. Its better to get one to one lessons from a coach, go to every tournament you possibly can and lose until you start winning and keep winning.
That being said this recent book
This is Fencing!: Advanced Training and Performance Principles for Foil by Ziemowit Wojciechowski
is a good handbook for ideas for how to progress in your journey, with tournament specific training and development. But you need experience first.
Rubber sanding blocks work really well for removing rust.
https://www.amazon.com/Sandflex-Sanding-Block-3-Pack/dp/B000GACU1Q/
I find medium is best for blades. You can cut a single block into 4-6 chunks to share among fencers, each small chunk lasts a really long time.
FIE blades are made with high nickel content steel that is significantly more rust resistant. That looks like rust formation on a non-FIE blade, and about what I would expect. FIE blades tend to patina more uniformly vs the pitting on the OPs blade.
Your comment inspired me to finally order one. The last few times I bouted, I had sweat running into my eye which really sucked.
I ordered this one. Don't know how well it'll work, but for $6 I don't really care.
lasts a long time, works pretty fast, inexpensive. If you are doing one blade one time, a piece of fine sanding paper will work, but the block will do dozens of blades.
well isnt that amusing... i bought the last series (had to buy most of them all individually on ebay...sigh... )
hadn't seen a new series out.. may buy these.. amusing read even if a little simple (they are comics ...lol) ..
​
advice re a book by Kogler...
The Mental Preparation Of Fencers and Others: Awareness-based Concentrative Analysis (A-COAN) and Mind Fitness Training
I was looking at a few copies on ebay and they were printed in 1993 ... but then found copies much cheaper on amazon.com but found these to have been printed in 2013....
can anyone tell me if and what the difference in the two are besides the cover ? and of course price
I haven't read this book but was interested in reading the reviews (some of them) and opinions of fencers saying it is a book well worth getting....
​
do I go for the amazon copy or the ebay one?
If you have to replace the rubber band on a LP X-Change foil/epee mask, I would recommend using 3M VHB (Very High Bonding) double backed tape instead of glue. Very easy to use and keeps everything clean.
3M Scotch 5952 VHB Tape: 1/2 in. x 15 ft. (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BT0A6MG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FXW1NBN1EDX682J75RRZ
The only drawback is that the band is raised off of the mask shell by the thickness of the tape.
A coarse rat-tail file, a broken blade, a vise, and some 80 grit sandpaper or a broken belt sander belt.
Mount the grip on the blade, clamp the blade in the vise, remove areas of the grip that irk you with the file. Check often, it's easy to remove too much.
When you're happy with the shape use the sandpaper to smooth the surface to a finish you like. You don't need it super smooth, a little roughness is fine.
Pro tip: If you get one you like it can be really hard to duplicate it. get hold of a small set of calipers, like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Inside-Outside-Divider-Calipers-Machinist/dp/B000OVPDO8
They'll let you duplicate thickness of parts much more precisely.
Pro tip #2: You're going to generate aluminum filings. They're a pain in the ass. Have a vacuum handy to suck them up, don't brush them with your hands at all, wear eye protection and a dust mask, don't do this inside or over carpet. The filings are sharp and the dust from the sanding is dirty and gets everywhere.
Allen, what's your opinion on soft cups like Shock Doctor's AirCore?
https://www.amazon.com/Shock-Doctor-AirCore-Protective-Youth/dp/B01640IONE
I've always worn a hard cup for competition, but I have a student whose parent asked if this was ok with me.
Been fencing épée for over 10 years and have always worn a cup and don't notice it. Get hit in the groin a couple times a year and have never been hurt. I use a McDavid compression short with cup holder like this one - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004MW3LHQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_BRHDP21FH45Z35JTP76M
Two books I've read from the era of the epee's invention are:
https://www.amazon.com/Game-Sword-Duelling-Method-2014-06-01/dp/B01HCAVRAW
and
https://www.amazon.com/Dueling-Sword-Claude-Marche/dp/1581607121
The first is from 1819, the second from 1884. Jacob is at the beginning of the invention of epee as used in the salle, and La Marche is at the end of its invention, where the rules are pretty well established, the game is pursued for its own sake, but there's still a chance you'll have to go outside with sharp blades and do something stupid. I found La Marche more interesting and readable, as a modern epee fencer, but they're both good.
The opening of Jules Jacob's book compares someone trained in foil fencing and someone trained in epee in the salle when they meet for a real duel. And La Marche constantly refers to sport epee as preparation for the duel.
For an older fender who needs a tiny bit more cushion , badminton shoes by Victor Victor SH-A920 Blue Men Squash Shoe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CR5EI76/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_W76B3E8NK6RP3EZNA7X2
Why not just buy a box of disinfectant wipes that you can throw in your bag? That way you can just wipe down the lining before and after practice.
Depending on your time/money preference you may want to consider making your own wires.
The only two things that commonly break are the blades themselves and the wires. Plus if the equipment is a mix of different styles and brands, you may be better off saving the tips from the weapon and soldering on a new wire, as opposed to buying new parts and worrying about compatibility.
Though it would be easier to just buy new blades already wired.
I use the individual breast protector cups and place inside a double layer, no bounce running sports bra (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00553XMES?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2\_dt\_b\_product\_details) Mine are the older metal cups with the rubber edge on them, but since they're in-between the two layers of the bra, they're not irritating at all and don't shift around. AF sells the ventilated plastic cups which would work just as well.
I use this on the callus that we all get in our back foot. It works best after a shower when the callus softer. Colossal foot rasp foot file and Callus remover. Best Foot care pedicure metal surface tool to remove hard skin. Can be Used on both wet and dry feet, Surgical grade stainless steel file
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VPVEVSK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_79RAKYFPWT83GHJSMHKQ
Anyone interested in having a spare Knurled screw, please note any M4 x 6mm Knurled Thumb Screw or Hand Tighten Computer Screw will do, just as this : https://www.amazon.com/Thumb-Screws-Metric-Thread-Knurled/dp/B01H0FB37G/ref=sr_1_18?dchild=1&keywords=m4+knurled+steel+Screw&qid=1617445970&s=industrial&sr=1-18
The only draw back is that they are not being sold by units ( I think they are are least 4 pcs pack).
This Knurled head is a very recent enhancement I've included in the last version of my Pro NEPS Driver which I haven't been able to update on my main carriers ( Absolute, Fencing Post,..) yet. I expect to complete this update by June.
Thanks in advance for your understanding
I think this is a really good book, but whether it’s suitable as a primer for teaching a beginner I’m not sure. https://www.amazon.com/This-Fencing-Advanced-Performance-Principles/dp/1785005952 Also the Leon Paul DVDs are pretty good.
Get a dummy (maybe one of these and put a hoody and your fencing jacket on it and some packing paper to give it body https://www.amazon.com/NAHANCO-LHR15B-Ladies-Display-Forms/dp/B01N1MLUE6/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=mannequin&qid=1604497465&sr=8-4).