Go to Amazon, buy this textbook
I promise you will know everything you need to know
Also Everest Fernandez has an amazing youtube channel
Learn before you buy.
TERA PUMP TRHA03 Battery Powered Water, Diesel, GAS Trnasfer Pump with Auto-Stop System ( Leak Protection ) and Buzzer, 2 AA Batteries (Not Included) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QVLQHAO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_c673FbTMMK0Z0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here's a great deal on shop lights if you decide you want more for cheap.
Looks great otherwise! I built one with just 21 sites and wish I had more for my strawberries now.
No problem, hope everything works out for you!
I wouldn't be overly worried about the level of algae that's seen in the pictures. You'll have some algae always, at least in my experience. As long as your reservoir doesn't get light, you're fine.
If you want to do something about it though, you can use grapefruit seed extract in the nute solution. I use 20 drops per 5 gallons of this - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B012YI8NW2
More info here - https://thehydroponicsplanet.com/how-to-get-rid-of-algae-in-hydroponics-for-good/
Just FYI, while supplementing CO2 can have a substantial benefit to your final product, you have to elevate the molar concentration within the air pretty significantly to achieve the results. There are a lot of gimmicks like these out there that have very little if any effect.
Commercial farms that supplement CO2 use tanks of CO2 with regulated injection into airtight grow spaces, which is cost prohibitive for most home gardeners.
Your plant looks great btw
This is a tougher question than I initially thought it was. Getting light evenly to to this thing would require some type of external support structure around it to hold the lights, and this would need to be distance adjustable or the lights would need to be dimmable. My gut instinct is to use a cross of two long pieces of material shaped in a cross over the center of the unit, then hang four sets of strip lights down each of the four sides. Think of a giant Christmas tree base on the top of the unit with lights hanging down each side. I'm not sure if it will ruin the aesthetic or improve it, but getting evenly distributed light is pretty important.
A bit more out there, you might be able to get away with a very slowly rotating motorized lazy susan (like 4 revolutions or less a day slow) on the base with a power cable that could handle the twisting, you could just have one set of lights mounted against a wall. Honestly, most vertical grow towers I see almost always rely on outdoor light as their primary source, I haven't seen a really good way to do this indoors.
drip systems are easy, i agree, but i would like to kindly point out that drip systems are a bit more complicated than a bubbler system. (i have both in my garage.)
for a complete lack of power, a wicking system is probably the only option that i know.
wicking system link
I did this recently. Raspberry Pi Zero connected to DHT-22 temp/humidity sensor. I installed openHAB on the pi to collect and display data. Now I can see temp, humidity and VPD charts 24/7 for less than $50
They look good.
I grew some peas on paper towels. I used a little Kelp. https://gab.com/system/media_attachments/files/046/382/657/original/76a07301b4a26732.jpg
In some situations, I make a hole, about 2", in a lid. That does several things. One is that I can shine a light into the hole and see the level or use a dip stick. I can top up nutrient through it or fill it. I can use a siphon to drain the bucket if I wish. A siphon just like you use for gasoline. It's a standard piece of equipment in my greenhouse.
I have this one. Been working for over a year.
Timer Outlet, Nearpow Multifunctional Infinite Cycle Programmable Plug-in Digital Timer Switch with 3-Prong Outlet for Appliances, Energy-Saving Timer, 15A/1800W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y3192PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ST779WSG3B6MR5G5VKWR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Edit: added personal comment to the lonely link
Well, it might be easiest to use an electrically opened valve controlled by the same timer. It would close when the pump power was cut by the timer, and it couldn't siphon.
Something like this.
Normally closed, so it opens with the pump. It's 12 dc as will be all solenoid valves, but that's easy enough. The 1/4" valve is 8 watts, and there are lots of cheap LED and other supplies.
Yeah definitely. So the CO2 sensor I use is this one. I like it so far, but it’s pricey. The benefit of this is that you can plug it right into a CO2 regulator so it will monitor the level as well as control output from a CO2 tank or generator. The downside is that it’s tricky to get remote monitoring set up, but I’m sure there’s a way - I just haven’t figured it out yet. The other monitor I’m trying out is this. I like it a lot so far. It just monitors the level but it also takes other measurements like temperature and humidity and you can see everything in an app. Super easy to install too
You can buy premade TDS calibration solutions online. I’d probably replace it every so often, as the concentration may drift due to evaporation or salts coming out of solution.
Third parts are often Epsom salt. But Masterblend get's a lot of mention here.
If you decide to use it, check out the schemes posted here and on other sites on making up three parts of liquid concentrates that makes it so much easier to use day to day.
Consider getting a garden hose filter. Here is the one is use
Can I suggest, Southern AG Garden, Biological Fungicide.
It’s over twice as concentrated as Hydroguard and costs significantly less. I put this in my 5 gallon bucket and have happy healthy roots.
I don’t recommend mixing H2O2 with any “good bacteria” because it will kill it off. That extra oxygen molecule can’t make that determination. If anything you can run some H2O2 a few days prior to adding good bacteria if you’re looking for a quick sanitization.
I’m still fairly young in the hydro world, but passing along info that I’ve gathered!
Well, it’s a brushless dc motor (so technically 3 phase ac). The reason for this is because I intend to run the whole thing off of a small solar pv + battery system so I wanted something relatively low voltage.
This is the one I got;
Orlushy 24V DC Aquarium Water Pump Ultra-Quiet Return Pump with up to 20 Speed Settings and 3 Operation Modes for Submersible or External Use https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08CK9JPC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_4X0CNKDYWG1YAV3DWW4S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I've just put some space blanket material on mine (mylar sheeting). Might just do the trick for $1.80 CAD a sheet.
- a container (10+ gallon)
- water pump
- drip manifold (like this: https://www.amazon.com/Orbit-69000D-8-Port-Manifold-Adjustable/dp/B004RUJ2OE/ref=sr_1_6)
- a black vinyl tube that connects from your water pump to the manifold (size varies depending on your pump and manifold)
- drip irrigation tubing. the amazon one above uses 1/4 inch
- if you feel fancy, you can buy emitters that fit at the end of the drip lines
- outlet with timer so you can run the water on a schedule
basically fill the container with nutes, schedule the outlet timer, hook up the pump/tubing/manifold and plop the pump into the container... and then just watch it all run : )
This one's really good, settled on it after going through half a dozen different ones: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V7KM32
Edit: I have both big and small, and bought them 4 years ago, still going strong!
Can confirm this is super quiet but the airstone is crap and leaks.
Mylivell Quietest Aquarium Air Pump Ultra Silent High Energy Saving Oxygen Air Pump Aquarium for Fish Tank with Air Stone and Silicone Tube Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTSR8Y8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2PAY4NVS8WHSH31N6XSS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Google "microgreen sprouter tray" I use these to start everything... You want a single layer one with a lid.
Something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/BIGHAVE-Sprouter-Sprouting-Extra-Small/dp/B088DQMRN3/ref=asc_df_B088DQMRN3/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=449008396480&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7600409149065747852&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006491&hvtargid=pla-935912863612&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=103203603494&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=449008396480&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7600409149065747852&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006491&hvtargid=pla-935912863612
Atlas scientific has a cheaper probe out now.
Id recommend checking for spider mites just to be safe. Something cheap like This would work since they are microscopic. If you see any white or clear things that look like water droplets you have found eggs
I had similar looking growth on my first grow and it turns out those fuckers are so small you only notice them when they are starting to get bad. I did everything I could but next week it kept creeping up. Bought that microscope and instantly confirmed it. Still don't know how I got them either it was mid winter
It could just be the plant doing it's thang due to not enough light or something. But since it's so cheap to have piece
I got two of these and they worked very well for starting seedlings and for supplementing my iDOO hydroponic kit when my Tiny Tim Tomato plants outgrew the height of that kit's lighting.
No problem. This type of pump is magnetic drive, meaning it spins a magnet in the sealed case which induces spin of the impeller outside the case. One thing this does is eliminate any need for seals. And it does not harm it to be restricted or even blocked entirely, because the magnet keeps spinning happily on. The impeller simply resists the magnetic field more.
I use this same pump in ebb and flow, and I use a valve, because the outflow would otherwise be too much and the tray would overflow because the overflow outlet couldn't keep up.
Now it is best that it not be run dry, since it depends on the surrounding water as a heat sink. But I have them run dry for a while from time to time without harm. The control valve on the pump body is a rather crude control. I favor running it wide open and using the valve to control.
I use these valves. They're ball valves so they're a little touchy to adjust, but they work fine, and you really don't need fine control, just to keep it below the dangerous flow rate.
Use some petroleum jelly to get it onto the pvc first, then while its on the pvc its extremely easy to then get into the hole. Getting it onto the pvc is not easy. Swearing helps. So does using a file/sand paper, knife, brick whatever and bevel the cut end of the pvc a bit first.
I recommend scrapping that $135 KingLED. For just $25 more you can upgrade it to a quantum board with dimmer, which should utilize the same 200 watts more efficiently with a better color spectrum. Amazon has the Viparspectra P2000 for only $160 at the moment. Lots of choices in terms of quantum board lights that perform similar or better near this price-point.
Don't forget to buy some Hydroguard or Hydrogen Peroxide, depending on which style you're gonna go with. Sterile or beneficial bacteria to prevent root issues.
I’ve been using these - 3 lights on a 4’ shelf. They are great as far as heat and reasonably low profile.
If you have a really low clearance (<14” or so) what are you going to grow though? I put humidity domes and seeds under these lights and you could probably grow lettuce but I wouldn’t think it’s enough for flowering plants.
Barrina LED Grow Light 4FT, 168W(4 x 42W, 1000W Equivalent), Full Spectrum, V-Shape with Reflector, Grow Light Strip, Grow Lights for Indoor Plants, 4-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZFLMTS9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DXDZWFD9WBBXSE637R3V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
BTW, that link is for the 4’ but they have 2’ ones too - they all can be strung together
Hydroguard is a great product, but we can get the same bacteria strain Bacillus amyloliquefaciens.
In Garden Friendly Fungicide it's the same product only highly concentrated and at a fraction of the price. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014174BZM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_TCAQRBCYS95575PRYRGY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
1 ml to 5 gallons is more than enough
Just make sure that it has a good PPFD map and that it's full spectrum (should be somewhat reminiscent of the sun). Try to avoid the purple ones unless you're growing weed or something.
What does your setup look like? Strips are you best bet if you have a long system but standard square/rectangle form factors are good for uniform areas (like a grow tent or Ebb/Flow table).
Here's what I use:
2x4ft Grow Light Strip for my NFT System (no longer sold on Amazon)
SunRaise QB2000 Grow light for my 36x36" Ebb and Flow system
SpiderFarmer (excellent value)
MarsHydro (excellent value)
Horticulture Lighting Group (premium)
T5/T8 shoplights (produce more heat than LEDs but work very well)
The way I see it:
Quantum Boards > LED Grow Lights > T5/T8 Shop Lights > Blurple Lights > those garbage amazon "grow lights" that look like desk lamps with multiple arms (like this)
Like someone else said, it's a kit. I looked at building my own, but the price difference was negligent.
Here's the one I bought: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083S74HML/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_1SW30PNPS1B1Q34ZEXE4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
HTH Ultimate. Dissolve 4 grams in a gallon of water to make a base cleaner. Dilute further by adding 1 tablespoon of the base cleaner to a gallon of water and add it to the buckets, circulate it through the system for 12-24 hours. It is calcium hypochlorite as opposed to sodium hypochlorite (bleach) and therefore not as a bad (when diluted) for plants. It's he same chemical UC Roots is made from. HTH ultimate also has the benefit of descaling surfaces.
Very sketchy electrical data. So I hunted up something very close to it. That one used some cagey language about "max watts 45" but then "average watts 15w." It went on to claim it as a replacement for a 50 watt HID. Now the shoe drops. The next line is " with only 15W consumption." That is entirely consistent with all very similar products where they actual reveal the LED consumption.
So, it is not a 45 watt light. It is a 15 watt light doing the usual of citing to an equivalent in another technology, and making it suitable for exactly what they illustrate in the images, one medium flower pot. It might do a bit more with lettuce, since it will tolerate lesser light.
You can compare here, if you want:
That one also has some tricky language where they say "Maximum coverage 3x3 feet." Yes, its beam width is such that it can put some light on that area. It's not very useful light outside the small central area, but there will be some light out that far.
You can somewhat get away with these low power lights. They fire so wide that you can mount them very low and cover maybe 2'x2'. They will be less than really adequate but will support some growing. But here's the problem.
Your plants grow taller. Now you have to move the light up to keep it away from the upper foliage. But inverse square law says that when you double the distance, the light now reaches that distance at 1/4 intensity. By the time the light has moved from six inches to 24 inches, the light to the lower foliage is 1/16 of what the top gets where it's still six inches away. That can't sustain the lower foliage.
More powerful lights, mount higher. So when they move, they are moving a far less multiple of the original distance. Perhaps not even moving at all when they are powerful enough to be mounted so high that the differences between top and bottom of plants is negligible.
The Iharvest and similar are luxury indoor gardens. Gardyn is another brand.
These types of designs are beautiful, great looking indoor gardens. They just aren't efficient for bulk. Nothing wrong with them. I'm sure they have a healthy margin too.
If you're looking for bulk and efficiency the tower option is good.
Completely depends on what 'maintain' means. No dissolved solids makes it very easy to adjust the pH with acid or base stocks, as a little will go a long way. More dissolved solids will increase the amount of ion exchange that can occur, molecules than can accept or donate hydrogen ions. The former is unbuffered, the latter is buffered. Buffered solutions will be more stable so in my opinion easier to maintain.
My E&F system I'm just setting up, has these 2 pieces: one is a drain you put at the far side of your tray at the far side, and it can be elevated so it only starts draining once the water gets to a given height; the other is a tube the incoming water tube goes up into, and it has the same grill-type openings as the drain. The water comes out there; but for (most not all) pumps, when the pump turns off, the water now drains back through that same tube it was coming out. The drain at the other side is both drain and overflow. Here is the product on amazon. The two pieces at bottom of the tall one are the optional elevators for the far drain/overfill. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P218CAM/
yeah i started with the vivosun 2 in 1 messing with different configurations then the gf got me the gorilla and no looking back.
this is my fan:
AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T6, Quiet 6” Inline Duct Fan with Temperature Humidity Controller - Ventilation Exhaust Fan for Heating Cooling Booster, Grow Tents, Hydroponics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XBXFPD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_MM93FbPMEK4QB
AC Infinity Air Carbon Filter 6" with Premium Australian Virgin Charcoal, for Inline Duct Fan, Odor Control, Hydroponics, Grow Rooms https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSKTT86/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_.N93FbMD7PZMX
I run it in the tent where the fan pushes air through the filter out the tent and it creates negative pressure contributing to smell prevention
I bought this. It lasted me a whole season. probably wont last me a season next year but for $40 i had everything i needed.
Well your pH sounds good at either measurement but I would try to dial down the nutes (ec) and grab some pH down if you need. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FG0FA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_pkzXFbM0JW96Z?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They are weak so I put them up close since they don't put off much if any heat. I have a 1000w bloomspect that I plan on moving these under after making another flood and drain tray for them.
If you want to stick with one of the two, I think the purple grow light would probably be your best bet. Aquarium lights are "full spectrum" but focus more strongly on the spectrum of light that penetrate water and benefit aqua plants. Very high in blue and low in red typically. Terrestrial plants need different light than aquarium plants!
The purple light will be the full spectrum you are looking for. But you'll need to make sure those lights are very close to the plants as they grow. I have the same set and, while the light spectrum is good, the lights themselves aren't that powerful and you'll notice your plants reaching up toward them if they aren't close enough.
If you're willing to spend a few dollars, I would highly suggest this light.
I've been in love with these since I got them around 6 months ago. I have one of these sitting around 12" above my 11 port growing tub and all of my plants love it. They fit into a standard lighting fixture, so existing lamps and ports will work just fine, and buying a new fixture if required is cheap and easy. For a few dollars more you can get the 36wt, too.
I got this recently and have been very happy so far. I'm growing veggies, not weed.
How about something like this or this from Amazon Japan?
I have purchased 3 of these and although I have no long term results they are working quite well for the price. My lettuce likes it. There is a slight pink hue but not as much as other led grow lights imo.
Hopefully Amazon links are ok:
It's this one from Amazon. I wanted the yellow light as opposed to the purple one for aesthetics, since it's pretty bright and quite visible from my apartment.
I don't know that this will do right out of the box, but take a look and see if something might be worked out. From my limited experience sprouting, I assume it would be good to have mesh trays that would drain through the stack from the top.
Here is a painter's sieve. It is made to fit into the top of a five-gallon bucket, so it has a rim, and I think some support frame could easily be made with three uprights with slots to accept the rims and home one above another, still being able to remove any of them
See what you think. Various mesh counts.
I bought Barina, about to buy again but then decided to buy this to save few bucks:https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07F64ZR75/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have been testing both 6 Barina LED T5 shoplights (wraps removed) and Marshydro TS600 for lettuce, and found that while lettuce can grow quite well with Barina LED T5 at distance of 10", it grows exceptionally well under Marshydro TS600, but Marhydro is just too strong I need to hang it much higher than Barina. So obviously TS600 spectrum really does it's job, but the intensity is too high for lettuce.I am thinking about DIY to customize the LED intensity so I can hang it as low as 10" - 1'. Where is the best place to buy the quantum board and other materials for grow light DIY?
This is the link
Generally it’s 1-3 teaspoons a week per gallon of water but it depends on plant uptake if it’s a recirculating system. To you have an EC monitor? Here is a cheap one I’ve used before Water Quality Tester, Accurate and Reliable, HoneForest TDS Meter, EC Meter & Temperature Meter 3 in 1, 0-9990ppm, Ideal Water Test Meter for Drinking Water, Aquariums, etc. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073713G5F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_wFDGFb8QPR1P4
You could monitor the actual reading fluctuations and change your variables based on that over visual of the plant.
In general with a smaller tank you may need to flush the nutrient tank once every 2 weeks or month and start with fresh water and nutrients.
The EC reading will tell you the total conductivity of the salts in the water but it won’t tell you what nutrients are there. For instance the plant could be eating mostly nitrogen but leaving some of the micro nutrients. Your ec reading looks fine but if you did the extra step of getting a nutrient analysis test done you’d find that the water has a good ec level but is jam packed with sulfur.
I then put these misting nozzles directly into the pump, it didn’t fit in the tubing as wanted. It’s not the perfect fit but it works to squirt. I was going for more of a mist but pump isn’t strong enough. These are the nozzles. ZRM&E 6pcs Copper Nozzle... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GFNFX4B?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B008UF9XLY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TejoFb413X80D I highly recommend this air pump, it has replaceable diaphragm kits so it's far less money in the long run, compared to burning out other styles.
Thank you. Any suggestions on a better light for just lettuce and maybe a little basil? Preferably LED? This is the light in the photo (https://www.amazon.com/Lithonia-Lighting-Linkable-Hangers-Color-Changing/dp/B076QT9BP6) even though I picked it up for only $20. It seems like I would either need more of those or would be better served by a different light altogether. I currently have just 3 seedlings under it to test it out and it doesn’t seem loke they were responding to it well so just today I moved the light a lot closer. It’s like 6” away now whereas it was more like 18” like the box indicated since I was hoping to cover at least two of the rows of my PVC channels... but it doesn’t look doable with that light. Any other advice is appreciated.
It’s just one that I bought a few years back and it’s worked well. I haven’t seen drastic electrical use but it’s the summer. The ac is constantly on right now because it’s been 100+ for awhile now.
I haven’t had problems growing anything with this light. I’ve been interested in getting a white light fixture but for now this will do. I also have an aero garden setup but have the stand alone bucket let’s the plant really thrive not trying to compete with the other plants for light/nutrients.
You can add mosquito bits to the water to kill the larvae. You only need like 5 bits per liter, but you will need to keep adding it every 7-10 days for it to be effective.
That kind doesn't work in water. It's not designed for it. I have a cheap one I got from Amazon for water testing, but from what I've read here and on r/Hydro they're not terribly accurate and need calibrating all the time. It's not available anymore but you can find similar ones all over Amazon, also for cheap. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075J888J7) Just search for similar ones if you don't want to spend a bunch of money for starting out.
Hi, I posted some pictures but they didn't show. I am using the Viparspectra 2020 Pro P1000. After looking at a few, pricewise for the power, this was the best imo. The dimmer is also great to have. They have a 20% off coupon on amazon and you can put an additional coupon (can find it if u want it) which makes them go from $100 to $70.
You don’t need them. You can make them out of yogurt cups or other plastic things. But you really shouldn’t be seeing them for $6 each. I’ve seen them on Amazon for ~30 cents each iirc. Here’s an Amazon link for 40 for less than $10. https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Slotted-Hydroponics-Aquaponics-Orchids/dp/B07ZMFBNQY Note: they’re two inch net cups.
It’s a 6 mil Mylar film we got on amazon
VIVOSUN 6 Mil Mylar Film Roll 4 FT X 10 FT Diamond Film Foil Roll Highly Reflective Grow Room (10 FT)
A 10 ft roll was enough to fashion the “tent” around the shelving unit with enough left over to wrap the flood table for light proofing and make a lightproof cover for the reservoir.
>mega garden hydroponic system
Yea.. I found it on Amazon...
To answer the OP's question... if it's the 22" x 22" x10" size garden , it holds 7.5 gallons.
I'll be purchasing this. I've been looking for a system like this. Thought I'd have to build it.
Oh my, I had bought this $4 Phillips light and it was a plant light... I quickly returned it! It was unbearable and a total misguided decision.
Innovation at its finest my friend! I might have to look into that.
I use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072F2BL9D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_yZmPBbJ22W12G
I’m a chem student and do research in a lab so I have access to scales but I couldn’t wait the weekend to weight out the nutes properly, so I just scooped it in by spoons and it works out! I didn’t shock the plants and every now and then I stirred the tote to dissolve the salts and that worked out too. I consider myself lucky that nothing really died on me. My heart would be crushed lol. I don’t know if these nutes are good for other difficult grows but I wouldn’t see why they can be used all around. There might be cheaper prices for greater amounts somewhere on the web!
The lights I use are regular house lights, I just found 2 Phillips LED that have high lumens and high temperature around 5000-6400K.
Thanks for the very much needed luck!
Get an EC probe.
Keep it between 500-900 ppm. If it is hot, go for the low end of the range.
This one only states Humidity and dehumidifier no temperature.
Can you explain. I have a Rite Aid humidifier that reaches 99% humidity but I turn it down for 65% during the day. I bought a APGET mist maker for 95% at night. What do you know about one of these ?https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J1E5LWM/ref=ox\_sc\_saved\_title\_2?smid=A197YPAPAP8V04&psc=1
So, run a pipe through 2 injectors.
Newtry has some cheap injectors.
Mix concentrate for solution A and B in two different trash cans and have the injectors pull from them as they fill the basin.
You can put a float valve in the basin that opens up when it needs refilling.
The injectors meed to be turned down or up as the temperature changes and the plants use more or less water then nutrients.
I would suggest investing in a small scale.
$11.20 after 20% online coupon.
You can certainly use Favored Terrains method but tea and tablespoons are somewhat subjective. (Probably not enough for it to matter) I use tablespoon and teaspoon measuring items when measuring on the scale and I'm always a little off.
Now that I think about it, I should probably replace the unit I borrowed from the kitchen...
This may not be the best picture, but I 3D printed some guides that bend in a U shape and I shoved my tubes through them. They work pretty well and cost a few cent each to make. I also designed the drip ring in the middle.
The hoses I'm using are silicone, but that is just what I had available. I'll replace them with something opaque eventually.
May depend on how price sensitive you are. Check out iDOO for comparison.
This is a pretty good deal for an 8 pod system:
Also, I've heard good things about inBloom for something basic, easy to operate, and at a good price point.
There is but it’s clear. Here’s a link to the system I have. It’s like an off brand Idoo Lenorar Hydroponic System
>I picked this unit up from Costco a month or two ago.
So that thing is only 24W of light. You should probably add more white light around it with maybe an LED lamp.
>If I cut back those stems and clear away some of the crowding is the plant salvageable?
No, they are not. The bolting stems is really bad and the nutrient deficiency is too far along. Even if you only had each of the issues separately, they would still be unsalvageable.
I would start over and focus on the nutrient deficiency. These nutrients are pretty standard. Ratio in tablespoons is micro 1, grow 1 1/2 and bloom 1/2
I cant speak for cannabis but I have had no issues using the GH Trio plus Cal Mag.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VYP5PLG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A255P0GKH5I0BI&th=1 I need a us plug, will this one be the same?
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Glad to help man. Here’s what I use, seems to be pretty cost efficient and it holds up better than standard space blankets. VIVOSUN Highly Reflective Mylar... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018VI77QW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I had this happen within a few weeks, it seems more common on the earlier 7 pod model. Purchase a 5 volt usb water pump and have it running on a external timer, you will need to make a little hole at the back to run the cable out. I'll give you a link to what I use.
You could also just get an airstone and pump if the noise doesn't annoy you.
Maybe you could consider some 5 volt USB water pumps and a powerbank during the black-outs, these little pumps are quite good and affordable.
Here's the ones I use.
But do consider that route, something USB powered that can run on a powerbank.
One thing I wish would happen is that there would be more people on here trying to grow strawberries so we could all compare better notes.
There had to be something wrong with that Masterblend formula being heavy Nitrogen. The woman I spoke with at MB initially was concerned about Amazon resellers because she stated there were fakes and that it wasn't economical to ship smaller quantities due to federal government DOT restrictions.
When I told her who sold it (third party) she seemed relieved and stated they were an authorized reseller. It was a company called Powergrow Systems which I just checked and it's now mysteriously unavailable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B6QL1GHV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
But I still can't explain the complete turnaround. If the other plants start doing this then it's most likely environmental. Will have to do more testing.
I recommend against shop lights these days because LED boards have gotten so cheap, and are simply vastly brighter.
For example, a Home Depot LED wants $47.47 for a 35-watt shop light that they mislabel as 64 watts. I paid $211 for a 400-watt grow light on Amazon (no longer on sale). There's a big difference between $1.35/watt and $0.53/watt when you're trying to scale. And that's without even getting into how much better a proper Samsung diode (even a 281b+ versus a 301h) is going to do at being in the right range to maximize your PPFD per watt.
The fan are held just with the zip ties.
It’s the big 5 shelf on Amazon.
I use a power strip into an Alexa plug for timers and power
I bought an outdoor fountain pump here
Yup just NPK. I'll look into micronutrients too. Do you think something like this will be enough? It says - Has complete macro + micro nutrients. Ca=24%, N=23%, K=23.4%, P=5.3%, Mg=4.2%, + Trace elements (B, Mn, Zn, Cu, Na, Mo, Fe).
I grow mushrooms and they can certainly boost the CO2. Just a couple of 5lb bags of colonizing reishi/oyster/shiitake bags can elevate a grow closet to above 1500+ ppm with the door closed. My fruiting chamber is set to increase the intake fan speed at 1000ppm CO2 as measured by an IR CO2 meter. The range for most plants to benefit is only slightly elevated (~600ppm), though.
Mushroom bags are sold for greenhouse CO2 injection.
Here's the link! https://www.amazon.com/Hydroponics-Growing-System-Indoor-Garden/dp/B0BBN193BK
Very high quality, customer service is great too they not only helped with me with my product but gave me some planting tips :)
These are premade tubs / kits from a seller on eBay Australia but Amazon sell the same thing, not the best price though.
Attempting to NFT.
The system has two levels totaling 6 channels, each draining straight down to the bucket, which is underneath the structure.
The water flow is currently pretty steady, but not too strong. pH is at 6.8 and I'm trying to keep the TDS above 700, using the Masterblend 4-18-38 mix.
The temp does seem a little high from the lights, and I'm thinking the lights might be too far also, but I could be wrong?
That's a sweet setup. Do you plan to trim some of the plants or are you just going to continuously cut and regrow?
Not to undermine your badass setup, from an experienced grower I offer my recommendations:
You might want to think of a way to make the light's adjustable to bring them closer/further from the plants since they adjust in size. A super simple way to do that is to use a thin twine or any other thin rope, double it up and make several knots and hang it from the last zip tie. For every two knots you make there is a hole to hook your lights. You can use paper clips or get a roll of stainless rebar tie wire to make a hook from the lights to the adjustable rope thing. The wire hook either from a paperclip or even rope would be connected to the bracket that clips onto the light. Or instead of a rope you can just use more zip ties and connect something from the zip tie that's on the light to connect it to each individual loop you make.
Also a fan of some sort would help your plants grow strong. I personally use one of these 12v DC fans on my plants 24/7 that is super efficient and one of those in the middle of your grow room would improve most of the plants. You might have to be creative like using a transformer cable to give it power (I use my solar power station to transfer my AC wall outlet to DC)
Assuming your walls aren't already reflective a roll of mylar will help squeeze more light onto your plants
I'd go with something similar to this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083XDVTMN/?coliid=I3ECBRUYV41XW8&colid=E4E7E8MDY951&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
These are the ones. In theory if you feel comfortable modifying the design you could modify the light holder files to fit just about anything but I would want to make sure the lights were not heavy would be my only advice I think.
Any two tube 4 ft shop light would grow lettuces in that area. This kit from Amazon would work and allow you to light that entire area. Its $72 after the 10% off coupon. The light will be pink-ish.
The bristle cleaner that you put through dryer vents to get lint out worked for me. I trimmed the whiskers down and just attached it to the drill and let it spin. You would be best served by getting something made that screws onto the same extension rods. Like this.
You already purchased it, so ignore the people saying negative things.
Typically, using that type of system, one would start seeds in rockwool, peat pellets, or coir pellets. Then after the first set of true leaves are present, you'd move the individual plant & media to the holes in the system. For lettuces you can start seedlings in every hole, but when the plants start crowding, you'll need to take out every other one and cover the exposed hole using something like light blocking painter's or duct tape. For those six tubes take out 1, 3, 5 etc. in tubes 1, 3, 5, and then plant 2, 4, 6 in tubes 2, 4, & 6.
I'm not going to tell you to purchase a meter as the nutrients you chose won't require one. When you stitch to dry concentrates, to save money, come back and ask about Masterblend. Or any other dry concentrate available at your local hydroponics shop.
As for lights, I'd have suggested Barrina LED grow lights, but these may work if you move them significantly closer to the plants. Here is what I would have suggested for lighting for that system. One light per tube.
This isn’t, found on a local online shopping platform but they all come from China anyway so I’m not surprised if you can find it there.
Welp found it already, there’s a bunch of similar ones.
Yeah, mine looks kind of bare too. Hopefully it grows new ones.
The spray I used is this one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B081TCVFNF
I'll apply it a few more times, maybe it will help more. I also slightly reduced the EC this Sunday. But so far I do see new leaves turning crappy, so it's safe to say no result yet.
T8 LED grow lights, exactly like these. I will be starting seedlings in a smaller tray with a much closer light so they are not leggy.
The $16 version. I use two air stones and an aquarium heater to keep the water at 70°F. I don't know if two stones were necessary but I was already using them so I just transferred them both to the new system.
Colder air in; does help; pends on temp of environment (assuming 72F or colder air).
Personally I have avoidance for anything GH; but that is more of a personal opinion of company (their partner parent company). Do not know their products really.
Normally just buy a NPK ratio powder for target plant; make sure they are made for hydro/chelated (100% water soluble).
Monitor ppm/ec and PH; adjust as needed.
I've had good luck with these; but plenty of other brands and better options;
Going full raw mix is probably even better; but I am too lazy and not smart enough. :)
You can just grow hot peppers in small pots and they stay pretty small, I've got quite a bit of experience growing chillies on shelves with 45cm max height and get decent yields of fruit. You'll need more lighting though. I've used these janky pieces of shit from Amazon for supplemental light on smaller systems with decent enough results.
Just thought I would do an update here. I did look at the Z-Wave but they don't appear to be standalone; they seem to require integration into an existing alarm system or ZWave hub, which is an added expense. Nor could I find one that is just for smoke.
However, while searching for the ZWave I did locate a different suitable product: AGISLINK S-WF240. It only requires a free app, is a 3 pack of the detectors, and is about $80.00 CND. Though I would post as I'm sure there are other hydroponic ppl interested in a similar product.