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My thoughts as well.
OP should get some of this and spray all of the blades.
Turn anything that changes color in to the local police and let them know where he got the item from.
It's a Masonic sword that is labelled with symbols from the Knights of Pythias fraternal organization. Looks like you had a mason in your family!
I also googled the name on the blade and this came up: Proceedings of the ... Annual Communication of the M. W. Grand ..., Volume 87
Published 1874 by the Free and Accepted Masons of New Jersey.
I'mn gonna assume that it's 1060 or 1045 carbon steel seeing as I physically cannot find any info regarding it whatsoever from web searches.
Realistically though, most of these low end katana/tachi makers all make their steel in similar forges in china - if this is like a musashi product, it'll be a softer but quality steel you can do light cutting with that doesn't break the bank. (bottles, single roll tatami, etc)
It appears to be full tang given that two bamboo pegs are present so I'd say go right ahead. Amazon has this one for a little over 50$ USD. https://www.amazon.com/Tenryu-TR-014BK-Samurai-40-Inch-Overall/dp/B0086ZVUVE/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=tenryu+katana&qid=1563210526&s=gateway&sr=8-4#customerReviews
it was a dedicated thrusting sword. i have the same 1892 blade on my "1854 Gothic infantry saber" and someone clearly sharpened it, and it has some nicks on it which suggested it was used. while it hasnt been sharpened in a very long time, it probably could cut, just not very well. stabbing on the other hand it excels at. think epee or rapier with a very protective guard.
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ipostswords is right about the date. its 1936-52 and possibly used in WW2.
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also if that leather on it is the original sword knot i suggest treating it with leatherfood also known as dubbin. i have used chelsea brand https://www.amazon.com/REUSCH-7960-Chelsea-Leather-Food/dp/B001A43CQY/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Chelsea+Leather+Food&qid=1576813510&sr=8-1 on similar period and older leather to good effect. it helps keep the leather form being too dry and brittle.
im guessing the oil soaked into the bag with the pommel sitting touching it for so long. if you live somewhere with high humidity or store it near the shower that can be a problem. you could try a leather sword bag like in the old days. the leather would be treated with wax and oil so even if the sword was un oiled the leather would protect the sword very well.
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top result on google probably not the cheapest https://www.amazon.com/Autosol-Utosol-0400-Metal-Polish/dp/B003XJ1ODM
it's "for chrome and aluminium" but it is strong enough to remove the rust without scratching the steel. kinda like toothpaste you just rub it in with a paper towel.
Gonna jump onto gabedamien's comment for a moment here.
So if you want a "true" katana, as in something that looks like one, you can draw and swing around, and proudly hang on your wall or carry around with you, there you go.
As Gabe said, art-grade nihonto with the patterned hamon and the silk wrappings and the authentic look of everything vary in price and are actually affordable to the general public. It's just like buying a painting or a sculpture, only you get a sword instead.
Here’s an identical sword, and while it doesn’t say that it’s origin is Pakistan, the company owners name is, “Roman Ali” and at least one sword sold by them has a picture of sword being held by somebody who looks like he could be Pakistani.
I think you’ve been lied to. https://www.amazon.com/CUSTOM-FORGED-DAMASCUS-DAGGER-GLADIOUS/dp/B073XLZTY7/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=MOUNTAINFORGE&qid=1600229583&sr=8-8
If they aren't heat treated, I wouldn't touch them. If I were you, I'd check out the sidebarred/stickied budget guide and read through the SBG link at the beginning of that.
In general, I'd say avoid Amazon. Some quality manufacturers do use it (Windlass and Cold Steel mainly with some Hanwei stuff as well IIRC), but generally it's going to be mostly crap. I know Kult of Athena ships to Canada, but customs/shipping might hit hard on that. I don't know any Canadian based retailers off the top of my head but I can look tomorrow if need be.
If you want to send me links to what you ordered I can take a look at them, might be decent. Musashi and Masahiro make fine katanas for light cutting that come in pretty cheap. Ronin Katana is a smidge more but similar price range and probably slightly better quality. It shouldn't be too hard to find a properly heat treated 1060 katana suitable for display and light cutting for under 200CAD. If you'd prefer something more durable but uglier, Cold Steel's Machetes can take a beating and are about as cheap as you can go.
“Pressing on in pursuit, the phalanx entered 'uneven ground' [the valley sides and the ridge-end], lost the cohesion of its long line [nearly 1^ km], bulged forwards and backwards, and then opened up gaps, into which the more manoeuvrable Roman maniples charged. Once at close quarters the sword, the long shield and the body-armour of the legionary prevailed over the pike, the dagger and the light armour of the phalangite.”
“With the dislocation of the phalanx the superior weaponry and the greater expertise in sword-play of the Romans proved decisive. The position of the phalanx, caught between the Roman army and the Roman fleet, and the flight of the Macedonian cavalry led to the enormous losses of Macedonian infantrymen. The entire action was over within an hour (Plut. 22.1). “
Seems unequivocal, you can get without a paywall here: https://libgen.is/scimag/10.2307%2F630278
First, don't store it in the scabbard. You can use polish on it instead of constantly oiling it, I found this is a good product for this
“Not a wall hanger” hmm. But it is a 40$ sword off of Amazon. Lmao. https://www.amazon.com/Samurai-Japanese-Training-Practice-Tactical/dp/B07YCWK452/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?dchild=1&keywords=katana%2Bsword&qid=1623984492&sr=8-14&th=1&psc=1
w h horstmann and sons of Philadelphia. naval officer great grandpa is about right time wise. it is chrome palted and etched i owuld suggest useing mineral oil to wipe down the blade and leather on the scabbard then applying ren wax to the leather and steel it is in near perfect condition keep it that way.
>I was hoping to pay between $40-70 per item
Cold Steel machetes from Amazon. Free shipping.
That's honestly your best bet within your current budget. Take a look and see what you think.
EDIT:
>At the least, I would like some input as to what I should be looking for if I do want some functionality and for them not to break apart if we take some swings during our bachelor party with them.
If you're going to get drunk and bash each other, here's some training swords instead.
Cold Steel Cutlass-style Machete, 45 to 50 USD from Amazon, including shipping.
I bring this up in part because 1) you haven't said what you're looking for in a messer or cutlass, and it's a choice that will take some time to mull over, and 2) inevitably you'll want to go out and chop something with it because guys like to do that, and it's better to do it with something cheaper than something irreplaceable.
It's a machete, so it won't entirely handle like an actual cutlass, but it gives you an idea of what you want to look for. If you buy a coconut, slice it in half and put it over the blade, you'll have a coconut-style hand guard so you'll really look like a pirate.
From Amazon, a Musashi AISI-1060 useable katana. It's roughly $110 and includes free shipping. Also has an acid-etched hamon across the blade, which indicates they put a little more care into this sword.
Musashi isn't bad; they're a Chinese company that usually provides the swords for a lot of other resellers. Something to note: if a reseller uses a real classed metal, they'll say they use "1060" or "1095" or "T10" or the actual specification of the metal in the sword, otherwise they'll get away with saying "carbon steel" which you can assume is just junk.
If you'd like something better than what Amazon normally offers, the Budget Buyer's Guide is at the top of the /r/swords forum and is very well researched. Can't go wrong with anything in there.
Yeah Japanese soldiers didn't carry around the paperwork for their swords, lol. It's a cool piece of history for sure and has sentimental value to you.
I'd keep the blade oiled https://www.amazon.com/KUROBARA-Tsubaki-Japanese-Maintenance-Camellia/dp/B00362HBPQ should do the trick. Use a microfiber cloth put some oil on it and apply it to the blade, start like a couple inches up from the hilt, go the to the tip. Then do the section close to the hilt, but don't go further down the blade, there tends to be loose metal bits by the hilt and you don't want to drag them across the blade. You want it to be a thin layer, not too thick. If you put too much oil on it will gunk up your scabbard.
I'm in the Midwest too if you want to PM me. It's a big region though. If you're near Chicago there's a lot of sword collectors there that could help. Surprisingly there are more Japanese folks in the Midwest than I met on the East Coast, mostly from the auto industry.
Maybe of interest here: The Kunagota Sword and the Dating of Two Bronze Matrices for Sword-Hilt Manufacturing
this style of sword is from Germany 19th centcury and i generally see it described as a court saber. for the blue and gilt i suggest using ren wax to protect it and the rest of the blade this is a very nice example and the blue and gilt is very easy to loose.
it isnt normal and i like autosol. https://www.amazon.com/Autosol-Utosol-0400-Metal-Polish/dp/B003XJ1ODM
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will remove the rust and not scratch the steel and leaves a good polish. put a tiny spec on there and rub with a cloth or paper/shop towel then oil it. repeat till its good.
> Is there an easy way to make a scabbard for storage?
Yes. One way is to use PVC pipe. Depending on your sword, there are a few options:
For a straight sword, get a pipe a little longer than the blade, just wide enough for the blade to fit into.
Get a smaller diameter pipe, heat it and flatten it. Make sure that it will be wide enough for the blade once flattened.
If the sword is curved, heat the pipe and bend it. You could also flatten it.
Use cord or an elastic strap or similar over the guard to keep it securely in the scabbard.
You can also get some plastic sheet that's thin enough to bend and thick enough to not be too easy to cut through, and wrap it around the blade (a spiral wrap works well for curved blades), and wrap duct tape or cloth tape around it. I've found 500 micron (0.5mm, 20 mil) polypropylene to work well. 10 mil (250 micron) should be OK, too. If it's soft plastic, thicker should be OK, too.
Some possible types of plastic sheet that might work:
https://www.amazon.com/Bloss-Non-Adhesive-Waterproof-Non-Slip-Refrigerator/dp/B07V3BQYCM/ (from the weight, this might be 250 micron = 10 mil)
https://www.amazon.com/LAMINET-Crystal-Heavy-Duty-Desktop-Protector/dp/B085CLYMQN/
Ugly, but cheap and easy, and will protect your sword from your guns and your hands from your sword.
I found it, https://www.amazon.com/Snake-Eye-Tactical-Machete-Throwing/dp/B071W1L1S5/
It even comes with two throwers and something you might call a sheath
For comparison, here's an Ace Martial Arts Supply katana, from Amazon, for $40 USD.
You can see in the closeups how parts should be shaped and fastened. This katana is specified at 1045 ANSI carbon steel, which is kinda the bare minimum for a safe blade and will actually bend and chip if you use it on hard targets like wood or metal. But still, there you go.
You can also buy stuff to make your swords look better. No reason you can't wrap it in actual silk sageo, for example.
Columbia River also has a really nice machete that I find superior to the cold steel ones, also check out the Condor machetes they are high quality and good priced, you can find them on Kult of Athena and Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Columbia-River-Knife-Tool-K910KKP/dp/B00I04SB7C
That was going to be my suggestion. FYI, if KoA doesn't get more you can buy direct from Hanwei via Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/CAS-Hanwei-Tinker-Bastard-Fuller/dp/B003X4BG2Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487265932&sr=8-2&keywords=hanwei+bastard+swor
Chinese liuyedao, a willow-leaf dao. Modern, based on one style of late Qing swords.
The often have good quality blades. The handles are where the cheapness shows, with a glued-on pommel (usually) and a skinny tang (but usually not too skinny) and a lot of empty space between the wooden grip and the tang (which you can and should fill, perhaps with epoxy putty, if you want to cut things with it).
These usually sell for about US$100-125 on ebay, and somewhat more on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewood-Damascus-Folded-Steel-Chinese/dp/B06ZYHRKZ5
Carbon steel, so will rust. Oil the blade (3-in-1, sewing machine oil or other light machine oil, gun oils like Break-Free CLP, Ballistol, Rem Oil, etc.), and clean and re-oil if you're showing it off and people put their fingers on the blade.
Possibly a champagne saber - a fancy bottle-opener. See https://www.amazon.com/Fox-Knives-Maniago-Italy-Sommelier/dp/B00PT7X9CK/ for an example with a similar hilt.
Otherwise, a fantasy cutlass as u/fredrichnietze said.
United cutlery - through amazon.com
George Silver, a 16th century martial artist, was ardently against the rapier, he said it was a "silly Italianated toy". He despised it because it, and subsequently dueling, became fashionable and many a young man would needlessly die in pointless duels. He much prefered the use of the broadsword (a far more English weapon than the rapier, which was for continental dandies) which was more effective for defense of oneself and the motherland. It is difficult to say how much his ideas caught on in his times, but rapierists were mocked in shakespears plays.
This book seems like a good resource.
One vs. multiple opponents appears to have occurred in real life. It was common enough to warrant attention in the sources and even the development of weapons such as the Montante sword (the original street sweeper). Liechtenauer's verse states "In earnest or in play, be of good cheer and vitality, so you may be attentive and with good courage ponder what action you should take, so that none may touch you, since good courage and strength make your enemies hesitate. Keep in mind to give no-one any advantage. Avoid foolhardiness, do not attempt to match four or six opponents at once. Restrain your ambition, this will benefit you. He is a courageous man who can stand against his equal, while it is no shame to flee from four or six."
https://en.wikiquote.org/wiki/Johannes_Lichtenauer
Implying a young knight ought to be able to stand against two or three, one assumes. Though the Bearded One did not go into great detail about how that's supposed to play out. The sources are mostly concerned with one-on-one judicial duels. The obvious problem is you have only one weapon, no shield and maybe no armor. You can only hold one center at a time. The longsword techniques focus on winden and fulen not big figure-eight space clearing moves. So it's a bit of a mystery.
Not that I know of that have been collected together. Japanese stuff seems the most studied, with metallographic examination of swords going back to WW2 or so. Some of the modern research is very interesting (and Alan Williams is responsible for some of it).
"Metallography japanese armour" and similar search terms, on Google or Google Scholar work best to find the papers.
yeah, I think i'll try and download the PS2 emulator pcsx2 and see if the game's playable in that. I think last time I did try and was unable to get it working acceptably..
though the other day I did get downvoted like a hundred times for suggesting that there was no good ps2 emulator that played all the games well. Everyone seemed to think pcsx2 worked perfect with all the games... so I dunno <shrugs>
Weird, I typed a reply but it doesn't show up in the thread. Copying...
Are you referring to the hammer head smashing? That was interesting.
With swords, there would be no telling where the swords came from (there is no way they could afford to smash albions together all day), what hardness they were at what parts, what their COP and COG were, what their profile taper was and how flexible they were.
It would easily be the most apeshit test ever done with swords. There are some many variables that I could use a bullshit number, such as a million, and it surely would not be out of the ordinary. Here is a gif, showing what happens to a sword which is struck on edge, when the steel is very hard (not made for edge to edge fencing). Please remember that I am only posting these files so that you can see what happens when a sword is too hard, not to imply that the eastern style sword is in any way not effective (this is not a comparison).
i use mineral oil which smells a bit better, but needs to be applied a bit more often then ren wax which last until the dust covering it gets bad enough to damage the coating(aka years)
i would redo the grip but im a bit of a obsessive collector
i can help a bit with the leather care. oil of choice is mineral as it is leather safe, practically everything else there is safe, and widely available. you are going to want to get a shop towel damp throughout but not soaked. then gently dab the surface of the leather completely to remove dust and other grime wile rehydrating the leather a bit. do not use water and do not get the leather soaked. let it air dry for 24 hours then feel it and repeat dabbing with oil damp cloth or if it feels like leather its time to seal. my product of choice is chelsea dubbin leatherfood as it is very old and would have been used in the time. you put little on a paper towel or shop towel then dap then gently rub the product onto and into the leather to create a air tight surface to protect it. alternative is ren wax with similar results, but a more modern recipe created by museum folk to protect antiques.
The only full size sword I’m familiar with in the $50 range that isn’t garbage is from musha. This was my first sword many years ago and it’s held up surprisingly well.
wipe the whole thing down with mineral oil then use autosol or a similar paste to clean the steel by rubbing it on with paper towel or shop towel. its modern but appears fairly well made and maybe even traditionally. the rust suggest its not stainless but a carbon steel possibly even hardened. where specifically did you get this? which shop or smith?
https://www.amazon.com/Autosol-Utosol-0400-Metal-Polish/dp/B003XJ1ODM
I think this is from The Age Of Conan video game. It looks like a version of the sword that sits beside his throne...
https://www.amazon.ca/Eidos-SAGECPUS00-Age-of-Conan/dp/B000RZPW9W
Found it on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-XTL-8004-Wax-Polish-65ml/dp/B003AJWN62
I've had min for 5+ years and have barely made a dent in it, a little goes a long way, right now I think I have 12-15 swords lying around I do maintenance once a year
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071DXX5M1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_x8zTFb5T71TKF
This seems like a cheap one, but probably okay for occasional use. And it illustrates what I mean by sword frog, if you're not familiar with the term.
Modern decorative-only non-functional fantasy sword. Made in China. Sometimes advertised as a "pirate cutlass", sometimes even as a "cavalry saber" (despite being so short).
https://www.amazon.com/BladesUSA-Hk-2007-Fantasy-20-Inch-Overall/dp/B000FS6PX8/
wikiwand references citing highlanders by fitzroy maclean, if you are interested in it maybe pick it up? also in the large sword world, there are useable greatswords and "bearing swords" which were ceremonial giant swords use for special occasions as basically decoration. it is hard to say exactly where the line is because its probably blurs a bit as different people have different limits and few have experience using greatswords. i personally think 22pounds or 10kg is in the realm of bearing swords, but i wasnt there i don *know*.
I am using the Porzio and Gregory Mele translation of Vadi. If you are interested you should get it now. Chivalry Bookshelf basically lost all of their copyrights due to fraud so when Amazon runs out of copies the price will sky rocket.
If you want Porzio's older translation you can use this link:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ld2r2fz3p8p7gsk/Ars%20Gladitoria%20Translation%20by%20Luca%20Porzio.pdf
OP is looking at This Sword Specifically , this again makes me second Ryanswords offering. I think Ryanswords version looks nicer, and from the Amazon reviews some binding glue is visible on the "Dream2Reality" one. I also trust Ryanswords more than I'd trust a random maker/seller on Amazon.
I personally have this since I have several swords. https://www.amazon.com/Rite-Edge-SZ926679-SWORD-FLOOR/dp/B001DMX506/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1474654825&sr=8-16&keywords=sword+stand
However you can find more of all shapes and sizes with a simple amazon search. Personally I don't buy expensive sword stands simply because the basic ones work just fine for me. If I had an albion or a Christian fletcher my tune may change but for my sub 400 dollar swords these work fine. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s?k=sword+stand
You can honestly get a functional basic as basic Musashi (this particular line is called Musha) katana for $50 on amazon, but mostly for light cutting targets. For $400 look on kult of Athena at the $200-$400 range, there are hundreds of options, it's more about personal taste
Cold Steel Cutlass-style machetes, $25 from Amazon.
They're not fake and they're meant to be swung at brush and junk.
Hey OP. Read the thread, everyone told you it's fake, sorry. But it's far from worthless: your uncle gave you that. Heirlooms are always priceless.
Once you do that, you can decide if you want to take the dragon handle off the stainless blade and put it on the actual sword or not.
It’s just a cheap one off of Amazon. It’s just pressboard, but it seems sturdy enough. Trademark 20-WS8W 8 Piece Wall Stand Display Rack https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001R16TYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ob12Cb76B1GK7
My man is out here flexing his poshland knives pakistani steel sword KEK
Edit: found the exact model LOL link
It's a Masonic dagger, specifically, I think, for the Knights Templar. It's basically a miniature version of a Masonic sword.
I have seen some old Masonic daggers, but IME they're more likely to be "memento mori", "reminders of death/mortality", with skulls and crossbones, rather than mini-Masonic swords like this.
If the grip and scabbard are plastic, it's a cheap modern replica like https://www.amazon.com/Wuu-Jau-H-5904-Knights-Templar/dp/B005ELICG4
honestly? no.
cheap damascus blades have a potential to be very bad, and this looks like your average pakistani 'damascus' blade stamped out by the hundreds & sold at ren-faires the world over.
It's probably overweight, horribly balanced and not that well made.
For 150 bucks it's tough to find a sword that looks good & handles okay.
If you want it for looks, this price is on par with similar examples you can find on amazon or basically everywhere else (usually between 100 - 170$). But I wouldn't use it to cut anything.
https://www.amazon.com/Sw-306-Handmade-Damascus-Steel-Inches/dp/B00XVV7PMQ/ref=sr_1_14?dchild=1&keywords=Handmade+Damascus+Steel+Sword&qid=1602005553&sr=8-14
As well as Amazon and ebay, martial arts stores sell them. If you have a local one, you might be able to avoid shipping costs.
You can also get more sword-like foam swords, e.g., https://www.amazon.com/LOOYAR-Medieval-Berserker-Halloween-Reenactments/dp/B082VDZH5H/ - search Amazon (or ebay) for "foam larp sword".
They can be a useful training too, since you can go full speed without protective gear (other than perhaps eye protection for pointy LARP swords, and perhaps a groin protector). Takes some discipline to stick to proper sword techniques instead of taking advantage of the light weight to move it in a non-swordy way.
I got mine on Amazon so my nephew and nieces could goof around. Here’s the link
Glad to help, many people, like you, rely on into from the makers of the product, and even if they're being honest as far as they know, sometimes they're just wrong.
Neatsfoot oil is a general name, it's a product made from animal bones, it's an amazing oil safe for all leathers, there are many brands. In general, if something is trusted for saddles, it's a great choice for your scabbards.
Renaissance wax is good stuff, but it's a preservative, made for long term condition holding, rather than for active use stuff. I don't use it because it can build up in nooks and crannies, since it's a hard finish, and it's a bit annoyed to clean off. Should be perfectly safe for blades though. Neatsfoot oil like I use on leather is available through Amazon. I found you a link to buy it that should work for you in Germany:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0772ZGVB6/ref
Personally, I display my swords blades out, and just use synthetic motor oil on my steel, the stuff is cheap, lasts forever, and seems to repel dust. It also forms very thin coats, so even if I forget to wipe it off before sheathing a sword, very little gets in the sheath. You can probably get this at any automotive store.
this would be ideal opposite hand was usually occupied by a flintlock pistol or a boarding axe.
Hmmm... You could try a carpet cleaner spray on the hilt, maybe. I've never had to try it myself so I don't know if it would work or not.
The blade needs oil, but not anything special. http://www.amazon.com/Remington-Rem-Oil-aerosol-10-Ounce/dp/B0000C51AD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1429296540&sr=8-1&keywords=rem+oil+aerosol
I use this stuff as my general purpose protective oil. It's good for guns, it's good for swords, it's just plain old good stuff.
I linked to wipes because swords are obviously easy to wipe.
It’s worth whatever you are willing to pay for it: that said these usually would sell for closer to $20-$50 so that price seems high.
If you have a budget or aesthetic you are working with we can offer suggestions.
Example
Thanks, I just found this <em>exact</em> sword on Amazon for $60 lol. Unfortunate that this sword really is just some cheap replica, but I'm glad I now know so I don't talk about having some historic sword and puff it up to be anything more than it really is.
Thanks, I just found this <em>exact</em> sword on Amazon for $60 lol. Unfortunate that this sword really is just some cheap replica, but I'm glad I now know so I don't talk about having some historic sword and puff it up to be anything more than it really is.
Is there a reason why a traditional kama (made as a tool) isn't suitable? They're easy to find online, and cheap. E.g.,
(The best search term on amazon.de seems to be "grass sickle".)
If you don’t mind it being a synthetic, you can get some Amazon. The Rawlings Synthetics has been a staple in the HEMA community. I’ve been using their bastard sword model for a while
Very cool indeed! This is even better than the sword holders like these.
Recently bought from this site. I wanted to get some semi decent stuff for a renn fair that my partner and I are going to. I bought a longsword and some pauldrons. I have NEVER bought a sword or anything of the like before. The site looked at least semi legit to me after going through it. I see Kult of Athena on here (I also looked at this site and compared the two), and honestly couldn't really tell much of a difference. Although, I will also say, I didn't do too much digging.
ANYWAY, it is a total SCAM. The longsword I received is semi decent (not really), but the pauldrons? My god. They looked nothing like what they advertise. Literally NOTHING. They look almost exactly like what I was trying to avoid getting from Amazon.
(I will say the pauldrons looked maybe photoshopped here, but the indentions on his shirt very well lined up with what it shows him wearing so. I guess this is my fault, but also. Scamming is wrong and illegal so. Not really my fault?)
It looks like they may let me get a refund by sending the pauldrons back as they are actually replying, but still. Fucked up
DO NOT BUY ANYTHING FROM HERE!!!!
Renaissance wax is nice, but a bit pricey. Albion (a high end sword manufacturer) recommends and uses Trewax clear paste wax. I’ve used it, and it’s significantly cheaper! https://www.amazon.com/Trewax-Natural-Carnauba-12-35-Ounce-887101016/dp/B005SRV1PI/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?adgrpid=56100544735&gclid=CjwKCAjwp9qZBhBkEiwAsYFsb3dmuFvF4Iy8I4DPjFOsWWLMd-RQxLkG1PdTMUxuZnhKpj6tT1uljhoCJQ4QAvD_BwE&hvadid=274702078694&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=1013962&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=16282131093180770055&hvtargid=kwd-307039301722&hydadcr=18450_9845678&keywords=trewax&qid=1664521672&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIzLjU0IiwicXNhIjoiMi42MyIsInFzcCI6IjIuNzgifQ%3D%3D&sr=8-3
I was assuming the 2004 movie "Alexander" with Colin Farrell but I'm not 100% sure.
https://m.imdb.com/title/tt0346491/
Even though it's sold as a "movie sword" it may just be something inspired by the movie and not a replica of an actual prop. You might just have to binge watch a bunch of Alexander the Great movies this weekend to figure it out!
If the history of Alexander interests you here is a phenomenal book I highly recommend:
https://www.amazon.com/Nature-Alexander-Mary-Renault/dp/039473825X/
Renaissance Wax, this stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-XTL-8004-Wax-Polish-65ml/dp/B003AJWN62?th=1
The seller of the sword might also be able to sell you some, or know where you can get it.
I found this camellia oil on amazon that I plan on getting to oil the blade. https://www.amazon.com/Yoshihiro-Japanese-Maintenance-Complimentary-Sabitori/dp/B00AZ6SYSY/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=choji+oil&sr=8-12
I think I want to find a reputable japanese bladesmith to properly polish the blade properly without me screwing it up. I'm not sure if its better to go in person or mail it. I live in southwest VA and my parent's house is in northern NJ so if you guys know of anyone nearby there that would be great. Or I think I could maybe mail it to get it cleaned up.
https://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-Training-92BKKC-Polypropylene/dp/B00U1IBZJ6/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2U50HEDHVNN6M&keywords=polypropylene+sword&qid=1660972616&sprefix=%2Caps%2C63&sr=8-5 this is the swords we are using, right now we just fight out of measure and avoid stabs
You could get a Cold Bluing Kit, and some rubber gloves. It's very easy to do yourself.
Your best bet is to monitor the SBG forums classifieds section, maybe put a want to buy post there, and set up a saved search on ebay. They come up for sale every now and then, but you'll have to be patient.
If you're not married to exactly the Arbedo, the Cold Steel Competition Cutter is nearly the same blade with a different hilt, also made by Windlass. It's readily available on Amazon for $200.
MyArmoury has a great collection of information on their features page that I would take a look at. Also just like they do, I'd recommend Ewart Oakeshott's books for learning about swords in general. He does focus on European swords though, so if you're interested in something specific there might be better books. The Archaeology of Weapons: Arms and Armour from Prehistory to the Age of Chivalry is a great introduction that starts from the earliest known swords (well, really daggers and how they evolved into swords) all the way to the 15th century.
It's a modern replica of an "Arkansas toothpick": https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arkansas_toothpick
This one is probably made in Pakistan or India. Compare with this one: https://www.amazon.com/Wild-Turkey-Handmade-Collection-Toothpick/dp/B07RV7HNW4
https://www.amazon.com/Handmade-Japanese-Samurai-Musashi-Wakizashi/dp/B003D8K88U This, maybe? Though I would recommend getting a good bokken for that money if you really want to swing something around.
don't know if it'll help anyone who sees this when searching for one but i had one of these and it held up to some wild swings (I hit a lot of trees with it, some of which being very large and it took a while for it to inevitably break but it served well for when I was bored)
Also, there are not (as far as I know) any specific texts for German greatsword. The warsword was treated like a large longsword for teaching purposes as the size of a sword is a continuum depending on your style and what you could wield.
If you don’t mind shelling out your sword-savings for a reference text, I would suggest looking at something like Joachim Meyer which is pretty comprehensive (and cheap now that it’s been republished).
3 in 1 is petroleum based not great for leather despite its claims. you cant remove it 100% but pressing dry paper towel on it will remove some of it. i would then go in and wipe it down with mineral oil which is leather safe then let it air dry for a day then coat in ren wax or dubbin. mineral oil after a dya drying will only slightly darken it and that darkening will decrease over time and ren wax will not darken but make it shine a bit which lessen with handling. dubbin will darken a little but lessen over time as it drys and creates a protective coating. the idea of these two products is to protect the leather form moisture and dirt and damage so this doesn't happen again.
Longswords aren't slow by any means but I understand what you're saying. If you're looking to just throw some practice cuts at a dummy without much regard to technique just search Amazon for Polypropylene swords like this sword I advise caution with this method because it's very easy to injure yourself without proper technique.
If you're looking to eventually move up to sparring and tournaments, firstly I recommend you do go find a place who can teach you at least the introductory course. But these sword makers are great and they have distributors all over.
Have fun and be safe!
I’m sorry but I’m not familiar with any functional longswords for under $200. There’s several cheap euro swords on Amazon that claim to be functional in the $100-150 range but they are questionable at best and probably not very good. I’ll be honest these few have tempted me in the past but so far I have not succumbed to finding out if they’re garbage or not.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AMQME9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JCD6RQZ3FFV0YB58J2Z6
This one might be ok but I promise nothing. I personally think you should save another $100 and get something from ronin katana or hanwei.
yea i was lucky and was able to get a copy of this dirt cheap at auction from a collectors estate. lot of these old german makers info is only in this book or Solingen city records and shit its sad
I cant think of anything verifiablely good at that price. The 50 dollar amazon prime one is being sold at stupid inflated prices on other sites. To find something actually better requires more research and probably more money. Just keep an eye out for these exact photos being used other places. Maybe that 50 dollar one us ok and you can save the cash for something high end later?
It is very similar to this "tactical" sword on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RPCM9SZ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_E9RQXJ9YBXS7HBGZZW0Y?psc=1
I was going to buy one back in my mall ninja stage of sword enthusiasm (Thank God I left that stage quick) probably cheap steel, don't use it for anything other than a paper weight.
Or, alternatively it is the long lost blade of Xanthur, the king of Reldon in ancient Russia. Forged out of meteorite steel, it is possibly the most destructive blade ever made. Some say it was folded 7000 times, and can cut the space-time continuum. Clearly better than a Katana, the lost blade of Xanthur has speed holes to aid in the cutting capacity, adding less friction when it enters a body. The blood groove is full of even smaller micro-grooves that allows the blood of your enemies to seep into the blade, making it stronger. You welcome.
check out the euro line of scratch and dent at ronin katana not aesthetically perfect but functional for cheap sounds like what you are looking for. they have 2x twohanders for under 200and under atm and a lot of scratches and such can be polished out by you which is a good learning experience since if you use it its going to get scratched up. you will probably also need to sharpen it as with most swords in this price range they come sharp but i hear some parts of the blade are really good and other parts ok mild sharp out of the box. as with any sword they dull over time so as a sword owner you are going to need to learn to sharpen anyways if you are on a budget. something like this is good for beginner double sided wont bend or flex like some of the shitter diamond stones and its more forgiving and hard to fuck up like a more traditional stone. and dont forget oil!
yes if the marks not faked which i doubt but i cant see it, and horstmann with 2x n's the family was making/supplying swords from the 1820's to 1916 and was a major supplier to the us military mostly using German imported blades. someone wrote a book on them https://www.amazon.com/hundred-1816-1916-chronciles-business-Philadelphia/dp/B00AU9XML0 but the first couple years they were not doing swords.
do not use spray lacquer or replace it this is a antique. a safe coating product is ren wax or dubbin however they are meant to be air sealers. the easiest way is shop towel covered then painters tape the tape is water/oil resistant for water/oil paints and the shop towel can soak up a lot of the oil that gets through a not perfect tape job and protect the leather from the adhesive of the tape. once your done cleaning the sword its easy to take off and its like it was never there as painters tape is designed not to leave residue. then you want to use the right amount of oil on the grip is necessary its hard to judge oil content by photograph unless is drastically too little or too much, much easier by feel. if/when its good coat with dubbin or ren wax. also not all dubbins are created equal i will link one thats used a lot in the antique world.
Red Dragon / Rawlings Synthetic are safe practice swords. Many HEMA schools use them in their intro classes.
If you want to step up to something nicer, for around $120 USD there are better (more realistic weight) options.
Just a joke because you often see these black mall ninja pakistan swords being advertised as „tactical“ like this one for example. Was just about the colour, they actually look like great pieces for practice
I like things like this YYST Sword Display Rack Sword Wall Mount Sword Wall Rack Sword Holder 4/PK – No Sword https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079C2DDYD/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_Q9S7GVX8G67A7ZCFKZCX for crossguard swords. I stick them in it held up by the crossguard with the blade pointing down.
Also I don't know how to do the reddit thing of making a link into a single word, so sorry about formatting.
Lol I use command strips but you could use something like these I've seen it look pretty good. I like that it's minimal
> Most important to me is that it's accurate to the actual thing in the movies/books.
The United Cutlery replica is accurate to the movies. Maybe outside your budget: https://www.amazon.de/-/en/United-Cutlery-Lord-Rings-Anduril/dp/B00152O9U4 (but maybe you can find it cheaper). Steel (but stainless steel rather than carbon steel), but decorative rather than functional. At least, this gives you something to compare cheaper replicas with to see how movie-accurate they are.
As for accuracy to the book, there is little detail in the book except about the inscription:
> on its blade was traced a device of seven stars set between the crescent Moon and the rayed Sun, and about them was written many runes
which the UC replica essentially matches - the Sun is right next to the guard, and the Moon near the tip, and the stars and runes between them.
The scabbard is also described:
> It was overlaid with a tracery of flowers and leaves wrought of silver and gold, and on it were set in elven runes formed of many gems the name Andúril and the lineage of the sword.
For more on the book description of the sword, see https://www.reddit.com/r/lotr/comments/kmkq61/book_descriptions_of_narsil_and%C3%BAril/
These are very beginning friendly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CW4T6RS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_1W42HJN6YF9G946WR0HH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 but when it broke I replaced it with a cheap harbor freight 1x30. It’s a little harder and doesn’t have adjustable speed, but the bigger belts make it faster and it was about half the cost.
It can be hard to find quality modern/tactical style swords, I would recommend the cold steel maa one handed messer MAA Messer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019RSXWMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_EW1FM1T65NR49V5NZYP1 It’s not marketed as tactical but it has wood slab grips, condor also makes a messer you might like. Also these are pretty good https://www.kultofathena.com/product-brand/apoc/ if it was my money I’d go with either the wasteland gladius or the broadsword. Musashi also offers a tactical katana 29” blade that might be to your liking, if a little long. The reason quality tactical swords are hard to find is because plastic slab grips with screws or bolts holding them on are actually not very comfortable. Leather or cord wraps are generally considered much easier to hold on to.
british military swords by john wilkinson latham very cheap used on amazon its not the most complete book but its a great compliment to your library
I think the only option under 80 are the red Dragon synthetics at 70. If you can come up with a little bit more money the Blackfencer ones from socal swords are $95 and absolutely worth the cost upgrade from the red Dragon. Blackfencer https://socalswords.com/products/synthetic-longsword
Red Dragon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007KKDGEK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_7W6FA867Y0T59GJND5P5
There’s wood options out there that are less expensive but if you ever want to spar another person or join a hema club you’ll definitely want the synthetic over wood.
I pretty much universally use these if I don't want a whole plaque: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0187VJW3O/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_X9WES3CY7Q4YAVH9QS7R
You use one per sword to hang them vertical, or two per sword to hang one horizonal.
Craft of the Japanese Sword is an excellent beginner book and free on libgen https://libgen.is/book/index.php?md5=4D7014EEFFF73F815853CDC5EC1A1AF9
If you plan on collecting you should also refer to the website Shoshin and buy The Connoisseur's Book of Japanese Swords
The former is free and the later isn’t that expensive compared to the money knowing things could save you.