Thanks :) I use these, I’ve had it for close to two years now and it’s worked great for my indoor plants! I probably would’ve gone with a 4-tube setup instead of the 2 so that I’d be able to keep my Echeveria inside without losing their stress coloring but I really can’t complain since I don’t have to keep the lights super close to my plants meaning I can enjoy them a bit better!
Here’s the wall planter I found on Amazon. There’s a bunch of different ones on there.
6 Inch White Ceramic Wall Mounted, Hanging or Freestanding Decorative Flower Planter Vase Holder Display https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AKRDD3I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_JqKQPQlbey7TG
I have the nepenthes planted in a slightly smaller cup with drainage holes. The wall planter just makes it look a bit nicer and allowed for mounting.
Is it one of these or something similar?
If so, it is potentially getting too much sun. While in tissue culture, almost all of the plants needs are being met by the gel, so they are grown under dim light in warm conditions. Suddenly moving it into the sun can cause the temp to rise rapidly in the little bottle and cause some tissue damage.
In the long term, you are going to have to transfer it to a normal growing media, either peat and sand/perlite or long fiber sphagnum. Since it's been in sterile culture media, it will need a lengthy 'hardening off' period, where the humidity is slowly lowered and the light levels are slowly raised. This will give the plant time to adjust its transpiration rates, grow roots, and become acclimated to normal soil microbia.
More than likely it’s peat moss. Which is usually preferred for Venus flytraps. Just make sure it’s organic with no added fertilizers. I prefer this: Hoffman 15503 Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss, 10 Quarts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CBITW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_I3khFb08AC57T mixed with this: Espoma PR8 8-Quart Organic Perlite https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Y0AK6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_h7khFbYQMPX72 in a 50/50 mix using distilled water.
If you're in the U.S., then check out Lee's Botanical Garden in Labelle, Florida (list of plants for sale). This spring, I bought 3 of his "Sarracenia purpurea venosa var rosea Chipola", only $7.95 each. They're decent-sized plants, doing very well this summer.
For Sarracenia purpurea ssp. venosa, check out Joel's Carnivorous Plants (in Wilmington, NC): $16.99 each plus $4.01 shipping on Amazon. I bought 2 of his purps a few years ago, and they've grown a lot.
I have this one hung 18” above my carnivorous plants 12hrs. Everything is quite red and doing fine. You can buy under the name relassy or bozily- they are identical - I just get whichever is cheaper at the time.
The PAR (lumens are for humans a how bright we perceive light) is the only thing that really matter - the distance from the plants is dependent on the strength of the light. A listing for a grow light may say full spectrum but if it is not strong enough then you have wasted your money as it won’t matter how close the light is it will never give enough to the plants.
Get a unit that installs under the sink! Mine has a T adapter that screws into the cold water inlet under the sink.
I have this unit. Bought it mainly for my fish tanks, but it was a double win for not having to buy water for my carnivorous plants :P There are a huge variety of units out there, many cheaper and more expensive than the one I linked, but this is a solid unit if thats in your price range
I found the top to have sharp edges so I used some sugru around the rim to prevent cuts. Also the unit is water tight so you need to drill drainage if desired. I just pushed a hand drill between the glass panels so water can escape into the tray below
The trough was about 60 - https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/rubbermaid-structural-foam-stock-tanks-50-gal-capacity
I used probably one 50lb bag of peat moss from home depot (20 maybe? I don't really remember how much) plus some left over peralite I had. The terracotta pot was also just laying around.
What you can't see but I very quickly figured out I needed was an RO filter with the 100 degree days we're getting. That was another $50 of amazon. Aquatic Life RO Buddie Three Stage Reverse Osmosis, 50-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOG63OY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_pLpXqAIkA58Rx
So probably 150ish total.
Hardware stores usually wont have the stuff you'll want to use, places like Lowes and Home Depot only carry Mosser Lee brand sphagnum which is basically 50% sticks and twigs, not very good stuff. Lowes and Home depot will also never carry unfertilized perlite in my experience. If you have any smaller, specifically plant shops in your town thats where you would want to look, otherwise, it is easy to find on amazon. Here is links to the stuff youll want:
If you cant find anything locally and have to wait on shipping, id reccomend flushing your pot with distilled water after removing all of the fertilizer pellets. When I say flush I mean really flush. Pour a lot of water in and let it run out the bottom, youre trying to rinse out all the possible mineral build up to help your plant live longer until your new soil arrives. Another user also mentioned more sunlight which is also a good idea, they like filtered sun all day if possible, southern facing windows are ideal but western facing windows will do as well.
No fertilizer. I give mine a very light dose a few times a year but they eat insects because they grow in climates with poor soil.
Depends on where you live. In Boston tap water was fine, in Houston tap water kills them. It's the softness of the water that matters. Distilled is always a safe bet.
I repot every plant I bring home. What to pot it in depends on how dry your house is and the amount of light. These plants want to stay damp ( not soaking )
Soil is fine if you can find it with out pre-added fertilizer. Peat moss is better, sphagnum moss is better still. The import part is that is has no fertilizer pre-added. I've been buying supplies off Amazon because I can't find them locally.
eBay and Amazon carry them search for 'orchid baskets'. They are just open mesh hard plastic. They all probably come out of the same factory I've noticed no difference using different suppliers. They come in several sizes.
I've found the plants like them much better than closed up pots.
I originally used the LED lamp style grow lights that are purple in color. They were useless. I then found the following:
Purple Reign grow light found on Amazon.
This one is the 2 footer but it has a 4 footer
Definitely! I've had my sundew for about 4 months and it's way less picky than any vft I've ever had. I'm kinda new to carnivorous plants myself, but have been reading a lot about them and researching. Let me know if you got any questions about drosera capensis or venus fly traps. I'll try to tell you what I know lol.
This is the seller I bought mine from I had a good experience with them:
I'm sure there is not much difference between this pot and other self watering pots. I honestly chose this one because it was white.
HyGarden Grow Light, Grow Lights for Indoor Plants, Indoor Garden, Plant Light, Grow Lights, Led Grow Lights, Plant Grow Lights Indoor with Timer (Flowerpots Not Included) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T22GHT9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_11KRX50K2C4E5E7ENS7B
This is the one I bought from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0894R8PP9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It came up in my daily deals and I said why not. It was $20 bucks less. The reviews are IMO misleading. I've not had mine leak at the top, it's definitely user error. I also don't want to bake the impurities onto the stainless steel so I did set up a routine with Echo to turn it off @ 3 hrs 45 mins. That leaves less than 1/2" in the reservoir and keeps the minerals etc. from baking on. You can get a couple gallons a day with this if you run it constantly. I would buy this thing again without thinking twice.
We use our distilled water for plaster in our business, for our gardening needs, for my carnivorous plants and our vaporizer.
these are what I use and I have four-six on my two foot wide shelf and they’re all happy (2000-3000 lumens a sq/ft) depending on the shelf
I'm actually using two lights on this bog.
I found the first light insufficient by itself so added the second one and the plants started to get the proper colors. These lights are great because you can program them to run for a set number of hours. I run them a full 12 hour cycle in the growing season and 9 hours over the winter.
I'm gonna be honest mine might look similar to that picture if I put it under a more intense light I'll post a closer picture of mine later. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082CRTRQN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_SI0bGbEMGS7TT
I love ^^^^^ these pots I have a small army of pings and sundews growing in them. They also make a larger circle one good for bigger plants.
grow light bulb I have this guy in a desk lamp on the corner of my plant table. It's keeping my VFT going through the winter and combined with a glass blow, plastic wrap, and a seedling heat mat, my VFT is actually getting some pink in the traps. (It was a rescue from lowes at the end of the summer) my sundew however is positively bursting with happiness in its own glass pot next door.
In my 'plant room' that gets about 85F during the day and 65F at night because I'm growing a lot of highlanders. I'm just going to answer both questions in one comment lol...
I've got complex highlander crosses because it's what I've got lots of. They're stuff like (vent x (vent x inermis)) and ovata x (spec x talan). I've got them in either closed hummus containers or closed flat take out containers (like these deli container) on damp chopped sphag that appears to want to start growing into live sphag in about half of them lol. Oh and a very thriving culture of springtails because it wants to grow fluffy white stuff asap.
A couple of my seeds sprout, then die off. There's a lot of seeds left in the container so I hope the rest sprout, but I don't know how to keep them from dying back. I'm treating them the same as all the other crosses but it just doesn't seem to be working :(
Edit: and they're under LED lights at a distance appropriate for an Alocasia 'Polly' to be happy.
The ones I have were actually being thrown out from a research building, so I am not sure the best source to get them, but they are called falcon tubes. Here is a link to some on amazon, though you can probably find a better deal elsewhere. Hope this helps!
Whoa, that thing is expensive. I use this one from amazon and works really well.
My preference is quarter strength MaxSea. Most of the reviews on Amazon are about how it's great for Nepenthes.
I'm around the area as well. I ended up ordering 4 cubic feet of perlite on Amazon, but also found 2 cubic feet in lowes/home depot. I also got 3 cubic feet of peat in lowes. Both of them can be found in the back where the carry stone and bricks, rather than in the front plant areas (they carry the much smaller and more expensive packages up front). For the LFS I personally would recommend getting the cheaper stuff since in this case it is just a top dressing and not its main purpose. I save my my good LFS for Nepenthes, and use the crappier stuff for top dressing (when I put it on that is).
I use a water test meter, and I aim for ~175 PPM. I start with distilled water, so I can be sure that the PPM is all from Maxsea and nothing else. I tend to make a small batch and just use the water tester until I get to the desired PPM.
Read the soil requirements the bot posted to this thread. Highly suggest the book on carnivorous plants that this community is named after.
Keep them sprayed with water (same suggestion as above, read the resources the bot posted). Put them in a plastic covered seed germination container. Make sure there are holes in it or the top is slightly off (not sealed without holes).
Keep the light on similar in timing to the natural light cycle outside. I try and match it to the amount of hours that the sun is out for. There are some really good T5HO lights on amazon.
depending on the size of your terrariums, the mist maker may or may not not be practical. If you plan to run the mist maker 24/7, it will use >1gal/day. Also worth noting is the mist makers send out quite a bit of liquid water, not just mist.
I have mine set up (floating) in a 5gal bucket with a fan running into a hole in the lid and the mist comes out another hole in the lid.
Issues with this set-up: 1) I have to refill the bucket frequently. It uses a LOT of water 2) The lid, though mostly intact, does not completely block the stream of water (and water drops) that are sent out in addition to mist, so I must mop of the floor of my tent frequently. These are somewhat tedious to deal with, but the setup keeps my 16ft^3 tent humid and cool enough for n. dubia to pitcher inside.
If you have a smaller terrarium that can't handle the water output of one of these misters, I'd recommend something like a Reptifogger which has a lower output.
Also something worth noting: that specific mister (metal, not plastic) does not fit in the standard float which is on sale on amazon. I had to take a blowtorch to my float to stretch it out a little bit for mine to fit inside. The plastic ones fit better, but the metal ones seem to have more reliable output.
For a few bucks less you can get can 2.5x the peat moss on amazon.
Combine with pearlite and for about $10 more you're getting a way better deal.
I’m in southern Arizona. I have this one and my B-52 in full sun facing east. Around 1-2 pm my house shades the VFT. They are both happy and healthy. When it gets hotter, I may have to use a shade cloth. If your VFT is stressed, just bring it back to the sunny window/grow light and try again. It may take time for it to get use to the high heat/low humidity.
Water runs out fast. I personally use a self-watering planter using the “string method” to slowdown evaporation. I bought mine on Amazon. I tape/cover the refill corners because bees, spiders and gnats like to get in the pot and I was losing too much water with it open.
Mine was doing this so I bought these trellises on Amazon. There were 3 in the pack and they stack up. I propped it up and it is doing well.
I think it's okay to repot at this time (if anyone wants to correct me, please do). It is getting ready to go into dormancy, so that might be another reason it starts shrinking down. I've been warned they can even look dead during dormancy--I haven't brought a flytrap through a winter yet so can't speak personally. But keep the soil moist and see if he pops back in the spring.
Personally, I would go ahead and repot. There might be mineral buildup from what it was getting watered with at the farm, maybe some leaching in from the clay dish you were using, and if you can get proper CP soil and a narrow plastic pot, I think it'll be happier. Here's a guide on repotting (it doesn't say anything about there being a right or wrong time of year to do it). That site also has great guides on everything to do with VFTs, but so far you really seem to be doing everything right! Keeping it outside, plenty of sun, plenty of bugs.
If you do decide to repot, VFTs are nice because they'll be happy in a cheap plastic pot (narrow, with good drainage holes in the bottom is best). The soil will cost a little more; I can recommend this because that's what I first put mine in. It's not too much dirt, but I can vouch that it didn't come with sneaky fertilizer and my flytrap was happy in it until I bought a big supply from FlytrapCare. (Recommendation is repotting every 6-9 months or so, and since the soil is nutrient-free, I was advised it won't expire and a big box of it looks like it will last a long time.)
For just few plants you can use this https://www.amazon.com/SANSI-Daylight-Spectrum-Sunlight-Greenhouse/dp/B07BRKG7X1
That 36 W will enough for drosera if you put around 12 inch above plants. Closer is better for plants. There are 15 W version, but it'll not enough. Use it with cheap plug in timer, set the light up for 12-16 hours.
Just for information, those are focused type growlight bulb, different with growlight panel. It strong enough just directly below the lights, thus it effective area is just around 1 x 1 ft, while strongest light at center, lesser at edge. It's also have weak canopy penetrations (doesn't matter for drosera though)
I personally don't use it anymore since my plants are mostly large & vining plants with several layers of leaves like mature nepenthes, thus that types grow light are not quite fit.
Unfortunately not -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WP86VKY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 was the listing on Amazon -- which the replacement looks exactly like this.
What's bothering me, is I swear I've seen this before. When I first started looking into these I saw one with some tubers that the OP was claiming it rid him of some fruitflies -- I can't seem to locate the image a second time.
Have you tried using the Silica gel crystals?
Supposed to preserve them but retain the shape, and can reuse by drying in the oven.
Sorry for the Amazon UK link, just as an example: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Panacea-60102-Silica-Crystals-1-5-Pound/dp/B001E5U3QQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=silica+gel+for+drying+flowers&qid=1581698917&sprefix=silica+gel+&sr=8-9
I got these cheap lights from amazon, has a timer for 3, 9, and 12 periods and it’s automated for every day use. It has a setting for white light, red, and blue, or a mix of both!
I would recognise that mini-greenhouse anywhere!
With the farm tractor wax warmers, in order to answer someone will interested in it. Attaching the information below for sharing ; )
New Farm Tractors Wax Warmer for Scented Wax Melts, Spa and Aromatherapy Ideal Gifts & Decor (Vintage)
Enhancing your aromatherapy experience ~
Buy them by Amazon
That depends on the setup.
I have a cafe style display cooler for ultrahighland plants. I just strapped the grow light panels to the drip tray under the cooling element at the top of the cooler.
In my lowland tent, I suspend them from the metal bar at the top.
In my greenhouse, I just added 2x4's to the ceiling and hang them from those.
For inside your house, though.... I assume that drilling into your ceiling isn't an option? If it is, you can just hang hooks from your ceiling. But you will want to fix them into a ceiling joist and not just the drywall. Otherwise, they can easily fall out.
If you can't drill into your ceiling, you could purchase or make a stand for your lights like this one:
Him just wanted to provide an update. In just a few weeks, my fly trap is loving the spring weather, lot to mid 70s. But there is no change in my purple pitcher. Im very new to this so I dont know if i should be worried about it or not. Thoughts? Thanks! https://imgur.com/a/wgvry
No. The fourth filter is for NO3.
So unless you are using Well Water, all the city distribution networks should have it filtered before immission, and you don't need it.
I gave the wrong name, here's mine:
I do; this year has been tough. I replaced my terrarium with a larger one and my petiolaris didn’t like the recent cold snap.
I have a heating pad but it’s not enough. The heating pad + light keeps it between 70 and 80 F during the day but I use a ceramic bulb at night for a heater
Ceramic bulbs are on a timer from 7p-7a.
Thanks again! I found this one which I much prefer over a clamp holder version, would this be best? And would my plants prefer the sunlight or red&blue lamp more? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B087JJ19K5?th=1
Your choice would probably work used in conjunction with your window. Another one to consider is this one, it works pretty well in a pinch: https://www.amazon.co.uk/MILYN-Flowering-Hydroponic-Greenhouse-Succulents/dp/B07MM8N6BP/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=desktop+grow+light&qid=1669516346&s=lighting&sr=1-5
You can get a ph meter, but I just use the general hydroponics test kit for like $10 https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Test-Kit-1-Ounce/dp/B000BT32UA
Though to test for humic acid specifically that’s a different test. Probably not worth it since you’d wanna adjust ph level regardless of what causes it.
Ah yeah no worries. You should get some usable seeds from it either way.
SANSI makes some pretty decent grow lights that are affordable.
I particularly like their LED grow light panels but for a cheaper option, they also make grow lights in light bulb format. So you can screw it into a normal lamp or light socket and it provides a decent amount of light for the price.
It’s this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09YPZC86N?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Tbh I can’t say how good it is since I haven’t had it for long, but so far so good. I also have a sansi I think 36W for my other plants and my butterwort and sundews
My favorite moss is besgro brand New Zealand Sphagnum moss they have on here is link amazon https://www.amazon.com/besgrow-Zealand-Sphagnum-Moss-grams/dp/B00C25R3UG/ref=asc_df_B00C25R3UG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=229436034656&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5039548225646100355&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hv...
Thanks so much for taking the time to write this! I really appreciate it. Firstly, because I've read some comments doubting it's viability I'm going to take it out tomorrow or the next day and take a pic of the roots (unless it's obvious I may not know if it's dead or not) and post that.
Next, which would be better, the peat/moss mix or moss? And when you say peat, do you mean peat moss? (Sorry if these are basic questions, but I am a beginner gardener and plant dad!). Fyi, the sand I am using is marketed for carnivorous plants specifically (link here: Growth Technology Ltd MDCARF3... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09L5DJ97C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share), and I thought this was the best potting medium for it (I was using regular compost until I realised carnivorous plants hated it).
Lastly, could you explain what you mean by 'undervase', and also will rainwater be as good as distilled water, as that is what's more available (rains often here) and is free haha.
Thanks again for your help!
Understood! Thank you :)
This is the product that I purchased and have my N attenboroughii growing in:
Do you think this will work for macrophylla? Or should I keep searching for akadama?
I picked up one like this:
And it was one of the best purchases I have made for my plants.
The microscope isn't too expensive; maybe the cost of 1-2 nepenthes plants. But it is invaluable for finding and identifying pests.
With the naked eye, the best you can really do is tell thrips apart from mites. But you can't really ID what type of mite you have on your plants without a closer look.
I started off with https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09PD2P1W1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but then added on https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NVHHVSX?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details a few months later. They aren't the only plants under these lights but they get the majority of it and are ~6-8 inches away. I know some cephalotus are more likely to turn red than others. The plant shown is a Charles Brewer clone (that's all the details I know) if that makes a difference.
I got a Weser from Curious Plant too.
Does the pot have a drainage hole on the bottom?
If you end up needing more light but still want a compact format, I am using one of these with good success with a cape sundew: https://www.amazon.com/SANSI-Technology-Spectrum-Gooseneck-Replacement/dp/B09NVGW22R I have the 3 bulb version of the same light that's currently growing some pings on my kitchen counter.
Phew, I was a little worried about the color.
The soil is Perlite, Vermiculite, and #20 Silica Sand according to curious plant (where I bought it)
The light is this one, and it's on an east facing window, I believe.
Are you sure about the water though? I'm a little worried it'll dry out, because I'm in utah at 41% humidity.
For a single plant price may not be an issue,
while the light is and will be in spring as well
That's the one I have, supposedly it's 300W. I only recently moved the plant to be two inches underneath it (like within the last week), prior to that it was probably a good foot or so underneath it which I didn't know was too far away until recently
I think this might be what you are describing
I don't really, I'm super lazy with all my plants. I've only had this setup for about a month, and I typically just soak it on Friday and let it sit in the sink so any extra water spills out the bottom, then move it back under the light after its drained a bit. I just used the pot that came with the kit I bought from California Carnivores and called it good. I bought a nicer container then realized I was a dummy, because there was no way for the water to drain, so I think I'm just going to put some succulents or air plants or something in it. I thought about using a glass bit to drill weep holes in the bottom and put the whole thing in a dish or something but, lazy.
I do have a drosera and a VFT but they're not in proper pots. For the drosera I took a piece of tiki wic and fed if through the drain hole in the bottom of the pot to suck water up and it seems to be working. I know people say not to put these plants in terra cotta but oh well. The VFT pot has no drainage so it will probably get root rot at some point, but for now I just pour like a rocks glass worth of water in there once a week.
these things. yeah you don't need to do anything complicated. light intensity is way more important than spectrum.
Like this? https://www.amazon.com/Generic-White-6500K-light-Emitter/dp/B01I4WC2YM
I was thinking of this too, but I also want to get something in the red/IR range, but it's only a sundew so I'm probably overthinking it
SANSI 15W LED Grow Light Bulb Full Spectrum Grow Lights for Indoor Plants, Plant Grow Light for Hydroponic Indoor Garden Succulent Veg Flower, E26 Pla https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCVWFUE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_LIXsoQlnPT9Ek
Full spectrum LED, long life. Mine has been on daily since January 2021. All of my plants love it.
Everybody asks about the pots! 🙂 Here they are:
BangQiao deep pots
They're incredibly sturdy and have great drainage. I wouldn't use smaller than 4.4 inches in diameter. If you're going to put these pots in direct sun, then I recommend shading them or painting the outside white, as the gray and black colors absorb a lot of heat and warm up the soil too much.
What country are you in?
I've used this one successfully with mine in if you're in the UK. Plants are happy in it, and seeds seem to germinate very happily in it too.
October I will bring it inside I will have lights by then. I do have a temp/ hydro meter on the way it will come Saturday. I found this fan my only issue is it doesn't work when there is shade. Do you think this is good enough?
I live in Texas. I just grow mine in my bathroom. I don’t have a window in mine, so I got these pots and mounted a hanging lamp with a grow bulb pointing directly down towards my plants on that wall corner.
Thank you! And I bought these lights off Amazon but they appear to be currently unavailable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XZ3J4TK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 There should be several others with similar specs though
Use something like this to get an idea:
It's what I use for free.
44k full sun
22k foggy sun or shaded sun
12k Shade with indirect sun
08k Half indirect sun
02k midday light 3mt away from a south windows
800 bright bulb light
080 corridor during the day
I use Tweezer for electronic parts.
Long enough, supple enough, delicate enough ...
... if you manage them correctly !!
You can enter the soil a few millimeters under the plant, carefully rise the small chunk containing the roots, and then force it into the new soil without breaking the chunk.
I use the curved ones like these:
Thank you for the compliments on my garden. Yup, this is not my first rodeo. I use the same 50-50 peat/perlite mix for all my carnivorous plants. It's easier to separate the babies because the roots don't get tangled up like they do in sphagnum. I've been using Petco Terrarium Moss but the Purple Pitcher and Red Dragon I got from Joels Carnivorous Plants came with nice long NZ sphagnum and he sells it for a Pretty Good Price.
I use distilled water and the tray method. I usually don't refill the tray until after it completely dries because I thought root rot might be the cause but that doesn't seem to have made a difference. The substrate is a mix of long fiber sphagnum moss and perlite. I use these grow lights and they get a lot of sunlight from the window. My flytraps thrive under basically the same conditions, and I have a larger pot with like 20 sundews in it that are doing fine. It's only when I separate one into its own pot and try to grow it bigger that it starts to decline after a while.
>I don’t really know much about it, but have heard it helps with compaction and should be coarse.
This is indeed the case. Avoid smaller grain material like pool filter sand. Something like this from Amazon is what you want.
Converted an RO System meant for under the sink drinking water to hookup to the outdoor faucet. I use maybe 5 gallons a day (+-1 gallon_ depending on the weather.)
I just got this about a month ago and it's been working perfectly fine so far. Can't say anything for the long run but at $70 it'll break even cost wise after about 180 gallons (I used to pay for refills at Walmart for $0.39 per gallon).
Good call out! Sorry, I’m still new to sarracenias, I really do appreciate the help. I use this orchid moss https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SRC2HXZ. If I understand correctly, your suggestions are to use actual distilled water and maybe better substrate? And the mites are harmless?
Good call out! Sorry, I’m still new to sarracenias, I really do appreciate the help. I use this orchid moss https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SRC2HXZ. If I understand correctly, your suggestions are to use actual distilled water and maybe better substrate? And the mites are harmless?
Buy this: https://www.amazon.com/JOMWECL-Distiller-Distilling-Countertop-Distilled/dp/B09784LZ31/
RO wastes a lot of water but gives you clean water. Distillers like this one will be better for you. I have used this type for years. and my plants are happy.
I've done a decent amount of research, but my drosera natalensis is flowering and just wanted some tips on harvesting seeds and the germination process. I bought this: EarlyGrow 70782 Propagator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E7FBBBA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Will this meet the requirements needed?
Thanks! I've just been keeping it under one of these grow lights for majority of the day. Good luck with yours!
No problem friend.
I use a Viparspectra 600WE Dimmable LED if it’s of any consolation. For the amount of plants your trying to grow, I’d recommend something similar.
Happy growing, we’d love this see updates.
It is just a light I got from Amazon but so far it is good! Halo Grow Light,48 LED 3000-6500K Full Spectrum Plant Light for Indoor Plants,Height Adjustable Ring Growing Lamp with Auto On/Off Timer 3/9/12H,5V 10 Dimmable Brightness,Ideal for Small Plants https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09YCKNJZD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7MT050M27JBZ1BQ7WQKE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I've used SB plant invigorator on my VFT as I found aphids living in and around the flower buds. I've also used it as a foliar feed on my nepenthes and sarracenia with no ill effects.
Test it with your phone, you can get a free app that can give you at least a rough idea.
Temps are fine, what exactly are the species you have? So you know if they are low, intermediate or highland etc
You can get super cheap ones like this
I totally understand. I was running into the same problem my first winter with mine since it was 5/6 ft tall.
I kept wondering how I was going to take care of my plant since I'd have to bring it inside and needed light and needed humidity. This was my makeshift plan:
I'd already had some IKEA Hyllis shelves on my patio and noticed that the cover to the shelf was just about the same width and height as the trellis that my nep was on. (Link to cover below).
So I got the bright idea that I would buy a standalone cover for my plant. Then came the issue of how I was going to build a frame for the cover. I ended up buying 2, 1/2 pvc pipes and 8, 90 degree, 3 sided elbows to make a frame. Just measured and cut everything to size which worked out perfectly. IKEA also sells the cover in a half size if you don't need such a tall one.
Then I bought this grow light with reflective fixture (they were on sale for $40 when I bought mine). It comes with clips that have eyelets attached so I just put some string through those and tied it to the frame above the plant and that was perfect.
SunBlaster Grow Light and Reflector Combo – 2ft, 24W, 6400K, T5HO Light Strip – Plant Light for Indoor Plants and NanoTech Reflector, 904296 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AKKUBDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_QKCX44SCVKDBZ3TTMYGD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The only problem was the humidity and in my apartment it was maybe 30% sometimes more when I had the heater on. That's not really the best and my plant did suffer a bit but it was better than losing it.
Anyway, I know that was a lot of info but just wanted to give you ideas in case you wanted to do that in the future.
Only trust the soil it came in if it came from a nursery, friend, or other trustworthy source. Anything corporate would make me question it immediately. I use this for my neps & other carnivores (https://www.amazon.com/Perfect-Carnivorous-Organic-Premium-Pitcher/dp/B089H2R9GZ). But really, you could just mimic it and have a lot more bulk. Orchid bark would be great for it though. Pay close attention when you water it, use a finger to make a small hole in the soil, and water the hole. See how fast the water is absorbed, or if it sits in the hole for a bit. If it sits for too long, then I would be concerned about drainage and worried about rot. I don’t see any signs of rotting, the discoloration definitely isn’t rot, but soil makes all the difference and you may see a huge flush of new leaves after a few weeks if the soil was the issue & is changed. Mine always gets a little too happy when I change mediums after 8ish months.
I've been looking into "water distillers" on Amazon. I haven't found one that I like because most drop the water which was just boiling into a plastic jug. But here's an example.
I would make sure you have a ppm tester before using the water on your plants though
DC HOUSE 1 Gallon Water Distiller Machine, 750W Distilling Pure Water for Home Countertop Table Desktop, 4L Distilled Water Making Machine to Make Clean Water for Home https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0894R8PP9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_957A1QTKCPYZV0HE12ZS
Check out this incredible fake seed listing
This plant is so rare that nobody, alive or dead, has ever seen one!
This one gets recommended a lot for just one or two plants.
I use a 1 gallon tabletop distiller, bought it for ~100 bucks off of amazon. I have a 4 stage RO filter I used to use when I had saltwater fish tanks, but as mentioned earlier the waste water was an issue for me.
This one is similar to the one I have and it's only $79US:
2) the only issue I would be worried about is the peat kinda clogging up the mesh. It is probably fine without mesh, though. As long as you add enough perlite/sand the soil itself will drain decently enough and the layer of pumice at the bottom will just be an added bonus.
3) this is the kinda stuff I was talking about https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08D8CHH62/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
But you could use anything. Or nothing, like they do in the video you linked.
4) I will link some pics tomorrow. They are kinda sad looking right now though cause they are just coming out of dormancy.
if you're looking for good grow lights I've had luck with sansi bulbs. they've kept all my plants happy. they're apparently on sale right now too
This one https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07X3QP4DK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I ordered the same SKU several times a few years ago and it was advertised as ip66 waterproof but now it isn't
Hi, thank you all for the suggestions on what it could be! For lighting I use a sansi 15 watt bulb ,should I upgrade to the 36 watt if the 15 is not enough?
I'm watering it using the tray method, how do i cut back on the watering with that method? For lighting I have it in a window sill + I have a sansi bulb to give it extra light since its not outdoors.
Where did you get your moss from?
https://www.amazon.com/Bloomify-OG020-Planter-Transplant-Carnivorous-Plant/dp/B07B2BJ9HG?pd_rd_w=RtAcE&pf_rd_p=85da05e5-c593-4314-b5c1-e397081af052&pf_rd_r=FHD8R281Q5FEVP4GAAZC&pd_rd_r=3bb568dc-e7f4-48f6-a8ff-5be54405a7b7&pd_rd_wg=... I was getting these last year because they’d throw in a plant dome, which they don’t appear to do any more. It must have come along for the ride because this moss hasn’t been outside since I received it.
You could try to get one of those transparent plastic terrarium tent things: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09HFZQSM7/ref=sbl_dpx_outdoor-greenhouses_B01D7GHEES_0
Any other method, including humidifiers or water trays, will be working to humidify your entire room and wouldn't be as effective depending on the size of your house.
Also despite common practice, misting your plants often wouldn't do much either. I'd say practically the only options really are to constrain the growspace with a terrarium/tent, or to acclimate the plants to something lower. They can go as low as 50-60% imo.