What are /r/Skookum's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

That's Death, standing in for the Hogfather, who is the sort of Santa figure in the Terry Pratchett Discworld series of books. This is a comic adaptation of at least part of the novel Hogfather. I knew there was a TV movie version of the book, but this is the first time I've seen a comic. I'll have to look for it.

But yeah, Death is very comically pragmatic in the Discworld universe.

I think you mean “what is up guys welcome back to Sumburgh Lighthouse, man have we got a video for you today but before that a word from today’s sponsor Squarespace/World of Tanks/NordVPN” actually kill me.

Not sure if compatible directly, but these are the bee's knees:

https://smile.amazon.com/Office-Owl-Replacement-Rollerblade-Hardwood/dp/B01KET1PUA/ref=sr_1_4?crid=158OPVDYFQXE1&keywords=rollerblade+casters&qid=1567813930&s=gateway&sprefix=roller+blade+caster%2Caps%2C143&sr=8-4

I have one - they are quite neat, and the mechanism works as advertised.

Edit: and they're less than $5 each on Amazon, so you might as well buy one.

for the lazy

https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/inline-blow-gun/A-p8809055e

I can see how that might get in the way, so this might be better

https://www.amazon.com/Coilhose-Pneumatics-CoBlo-Coupler-Blow/dp/B07D2LP8ZC/ref=pd_bxgy_2/144-1465503-7701320?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07D2LP8ZC&pd_rd_r=74bc03c6-5982-11e9-8b21-c1cc28e5a00b&pd_rd_w=Sx8Uh&pd_rd_wg=Bv3WQ&pf_rd_p=a...

probably not as much of a focused stream, but good enough for clearing shavings off a workpiece.

Fiskars brand mat for 19$ on Amazon 24x36

I have a little different take on this. What you want is a Bosch 12V combo kit. It has both a drill/driver as well as an impact driver. They share batteries and a charger:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GT0IWK/ref=psdc_552734_t1_B0046ZRYPE

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046ZRYPE/ref=psdc_552734_t1_B005GT0IWK

These are perfect for around the house. I use them almost exclusively for work, too. Incredibly powerful for their size, and I can't stress enough how useful an impact driver is.

Mine are Stanley brand from Amazon, and Sears sells a Craftsman model that appears to be similar. Obviously these are both US sellers but I'd think they're also available in Europe either under one of those brands or another.

Unfortunately, some of the "alternative" types already thought of that. Apparently touching that lets you use the "earth's natural energy to improve health and well-being"!

In their other thread on /r/metalworking they said they paid $270 for it and that it's an Ansen. Maybe this unit? Looks like it comes with everything you'd need to get started except an argon bottle and some gloves. Plus you'd probably want a better hood.

Watch out, if you are replacing cable with dyneema you should be looking for single braid lines. A single braid is a line which does not have a cover. It's common to use dyneema as a core for ropes in the sailing world but again, if you are replacing a cable, go for single braid. This Samson Amsteel is a good reference of what you should be looking for. Also, always check the breaking loads.

I work in the boat industry but it's also found on the ship industry as mooring lines because it's safer than wire (and lighter).

although all of the production houses are going to get the VESA adapter (still $200!) and drop it into their existing editing bays. The only people who would get the stand are people with too much money and a desire for the aesthetic. For anyone else, dropping $300 total on something like this is just a better choice.

Optical Tachometer. It requires a single piece of reflective tape on the rotating part. You see AvE using one quite often. The problem is when you can't stop the machine to install the tape.

A synchronous motor runs at a fixed speed based on the number of magnetic poles and the line frequency. An inductive motor runs slower than the synchronous speed by an amount determined by the load. For a given motor you can determine the load by the speed of the rotor.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Circuit-Breaker-Lockout/dp/B004J173I8?th=1

Leaving the circuit shorted won't prevent someone from flipping the breaker back on, and if you happen to be upstream of the short when that happens (and also touching the hot wire) you will become the short.

I bought this sharpener, and it changed my life. Everything with a blade is like a razor now.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R2PX27Z/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_sZVYDbVQ15ZWD

Ps i have no affiliation and this is not an affiliate link. Just a happy customer.

I'm reading this right now.

We'd have fast calculators that cost more than anyone could afford, and would probably only be for science and accounting.

Less than $120 on Amazon, in fact.

I've found even cheap metal dial indicators (eg, Pittsburg from HF) are quite accurate within the limits of readable precision (0.01") and even to what you can interpolate (+-0.001) off the dial. They just seem Skookum by design. I keep a set in my rough tools for reading bolt and drill sizes, etc.

I also find dials much easier to read, especially at off angles. The light is never quite right for digital. And as you say, the operation is more satisfying. And an analog needle you can see moving makes the "tolerance" factor more obvious; getting a single digital number can make a reading seem more precise than it is.

Protip: You can trim down the links from Amazon to get rid of all the extra garbage, just delete everything after the section after "dp". So for your second link above, you'd have "/dp/B06XXNP6M8" and leave it there.

You can actually eliminate everything before the /dp/ as well...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XXNP6M8/

Apparenly Amazon also has its own link shortener, so if you need it even more slim, you can drop down to this:

https://amzn.com/B06XXNP6M8/

But ironically, when they expand that URL, they add garbage to the end of it ��

(These are all the same product as your second link.)

don't try to pull the nail out by the head, break the pallet down and hammer the nails out backwards.

I use a Flat bar hammered between the planks and stringers and pry them off. knock nails out from the back once apart with regular hammer.

if you have a lot to do, they make specific pallet prying tools

Personally, I use a Hakko 936 station. I bought it because I was in college and I didn't have too much cash to spend on it, but it's still working really well 10 years later. It's adjustable, but there's no readout. I don't think they still make it, I wasn't able to find it on Amazon.

A similar one that is highly recommended is the Hakko FX888D. It's the one Big Clive uses, so it's not an obscure model. For the price, I don't think you can get better than that.

Both these models are ESD safe, so you won't fry your electronics, the FX888D has a digital readout, and the cord between the soldering iron and the base is incredibly flexible. Cheap models tend to have a very plastic-y cord that always pulls on the iron and restrict dexterity, but the Hakko cords are really great.

Get some replacement tips straight from the start in multiple sizes. Some large tips, some medium tips and at least one ultra-fine tip for these hard to solder flat packages. Soldering straight-through packages like DIP is super easy with a medium tip, but when you have a random SMD component or, worse, a QFP chip, you'll be glad you have a super fine tip.

Get flux, use flux, don't put your trust only in the flux-cored solder and apply your own, it'll make a much better job. Practice on old wiring to get the proper temperature and feel for the time it takes to heat a piece and when to apply solder. Ideally, the tip only heats the piece to be soldered and the pad, it never touches the solder. The solder is only melting on contact with the piece and the pad, giving you a good clean contact instead of a super brittle cold solder. If you only melt the solder on the iron and drip it out, it'll never be strong and it won't be a good contact.

Hope this helps!

These types are slightly more skookum (at least they come with machine threads and are available in different sizes), but do require access from both sides somehow.

https://www.amazon.com/Flammi-10-Pack-Furniture-Screws-Barrel/dp/B01N5PYNLF

Fuck yeah! $3 for both in the shop beer fund or absolutely free for to share a chuckle, your choice. Broken End Mill Fund https://tinyurl.com/lnfq8ms Free; just for shits und giggles https://tinyurl.com/kjzdlz2

nope, motion industries has them at 726 each

https://www.motionindustries.com/productDetail.jsp?sku=03251353

and amazon has the non oscillating 30" for 324 freedom doll hairs

https://www.amazon.com/AIRMASTER-CA30APE-NON-OSCILLATING-PEDESTAL-FAN/dp/B00AO6LXTM

this is just a super skookum fan, and the manufacturer knows it

You may be thinking of Bob Widlar.

"Now, when I have finished my inspection, and I am still mad as hell because I have wasted a lot of time being fooled by a bad component – what do I do? I usually WIDLARIZE it, and it makes me feel a lot better. How do you WIDLARIZE something? You take it over to the anvil part of the vice, and you beat on it with a hammer, until it is all crunched down to tiny little pieces, so small that you don’t even have to sweep it off the floor. It makes you feel better. And you know that that component will never vex you again. That’s not a joke, because sometimes if you have a bad pot or a bad capacitor, and you just set it aside, a few months later you find it slipped back into your new circuit and is wasting your time again. When you WIDLARIZE something, that is not going to happen. And the late Bob Widlar is the guy who showed me how to do it."

Bob Pease – Troubleshooting Analog Circuits

If you're in the UK (or utilise the power of the VPN), you can see this in action in the BBC documentary Building Britain's Biggest Nuclear Power Station (second episode).

It was designed to be able to lift the three 17m tall and 47m wide reinforced steel rings, weighing 1600 tons, that form the reactor cores at the Hinkley Point C nuclear power station in the UK.

To meet the quality and spec required, the rings are fabricated inside a temporary workshop known as "the bunker" and then lifted into place on the "nuclear islands" - enormous concrete foundations poured onto bedrock.

In the linked picture above, the grey frame is there to ensure the ring stays perfectly level as it's lifted. Before being moved and after being installed, every weld is x-rayed to ensure there are no defects.

Cheaper at Amazon. Change the name and profit!

Of course nobody seems to be particularly concerned that the bags of juice fixin's are $5 to $8 each -- just that the press is abominably expensive.

I was thinking Makita, I don't really know why but I guess its nice to hear someone telling me my gut is right. I was looking at this on amazon. Would this be a good combo to set him in the right path? The deal: 18V LXT Sub-Compact Brushless 1/2" Driver-Drill (XFD11ZB) 18V LXT Sub-Compact Brushless Impact Driver (XDT15ZB) (2) 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Compact 2.0Ah Battery (BL1820B) 18V Lithium-Ion Rapid Optimum Charger (DC18RC) for $229 USD

We aren't too far north so he wont be out in the cold to often so that isn't a concern really.

I picked up on the low quality aspect of dewalt so I was thinking about steering clear of those guys. Thanks for point that out

do you think it would work with this?

https://www.amazon.ca/Passion-Lubes-Natural-Water-Based-Lubricant/dp/B005MR3IVO

be alot easier to keep in the garage and plumb a line upstairs.

I saw AvE's video on the Makita brushless hammer drill so I punched that into amazon and found this seeming good deal.

I was looking to put up to 400 dollars to make sure he gets something nice.

He mostly is just does DIY projects, and maintance around the house, as well as working on his boat/car. So it would be a mix of metal work and wood. I don't think he is doing much heavy duty drilling into brick walls or anything.

https://www.amazon.com/VP-Racing-Fuels-3512-Motorsport/dp/B003TTV972

You can still buy a decent jug. They're still made. People haul those jugs off into the middle of nowhere on off-road vehicles that get beat the fuck up and the jugs endure just fine. They're vented, the caps are really durable, and ~~they come with a nice long hose spout.~~

Amazon doesn't have the cheapest price on them, you can find them for as low as $24, but the free shipping is a plus.

Edit: I just looked further down the listing and the filler hose is extra, not included. Be sure to get one.

Even cheaper at Amazon. And yes, in Canuckistani Kopeks as well.

https://www.amazon.ca/Howard-Leight-LL-1-Uncorded-Polybag/dp/B01N9DO86A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538075679&sr=8-1&keywords=lazer+lite+earplugs

I believe it translates to "cutting edge" in english.

here you go

Where are you located? I usually buy these from a local refrigeration supply store. they are always under $5. No "normal" store carries these or would know what you are talking about, not even ace hardware.

this one on amazon will work for you: https://www.amazon.com/PMJ460-Diversitech-Aftermarket-Replacement-Capacitor/dp/B00IWYGRDU/

Cheapest I could find on Amazon is a ZENY knock-off: https://www.amazon.com/F2C-853d-Supply-Soldering-Station/dp/B018LFTWTK

The real thing is $108 from Yihua: https://www.amazon.com/YIHUA-Supply-Soldering-Station-Welding/dp/B01IBQ8X8U/

DeWalt is Black & Decker.

IIRC, Black & Decker started making consumer grade tools, but did not differentiate them well enough from their professional tools. This led to the misconception that B&D made sub-par professional tools. There was a case study in 1990 that came to the conclusion that the B&D brand name had been tarnished too much in the professional space that it would be better to sell their professional tools under a new brand; enter DeWalt. B&D had already bought a saw company named DeWalt who had great consumer trust for it's quality in saws. B&D expanded DeWalt to sell B&D professional power tools with a shiny new yellow color. It would seem that their products didn't need improvement, just a new paint job.

I'm running Einstein@Home on a spare laptop crunching numbers from this thing. Check out the BOINC project, there are a bunch of fun projects, including this one, to volunteer cpu cycles to.

Amazon has a couple. PlastiDip will probably show-up first on your searches, but there are some no name products available too.

Just make sure you get the kind that you can actually dip them in, and not the spray stuff.

That kind of depends on how hot I can get it vs how expensive it is. My unrealistic goal is to either use tin or some type of low temp solder as a phase change thermal battery. Since tin melts at just under 450 F I'll go with 500.

There are some low temp solders that would also work but they are not as cheap as tin. The lowest I could find on Amazon was 281 F. https://www.amazon.com/Chip-SMDSWLTLFP32-Solder-Lead-Free-32ft/dp/B071V83B5G/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1525985218&sr=1-11&keywords=Low+temp+solder

So, somewhere between 300 and 500 F

Edit: this was supposed to be a reply to u/pipewrecker

Great pictures and drawings and a very clear question. Thank you for that.

It might be best to have those existing ones ground flat and then hardened.

Having new ones made out of tougher stuff would be my next move.

Third, and lastly, have a look at the helical replacement planer blades that go on the dewalt and see if it will fit. They have those square carbide bits and there's no frogs to worry about. Here's a link to one on amazon, but I've seen them elsewhere for about half the 450 dollar price tag.

https://www.amazon.com/Byrd-Tool-Shelix-cutterhead-Dewalt/dp/B008CS2QAE/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1528487788&sr=8-1-fkmr2

Ordered it on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Images-SI-Uranium-Ore/dp/B000796XXM

You are looking for the second area moment called ( I) in mm^4 (or whatever units^4). https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_second_moments_of_area

Then you need to know 2 things of you pipe, that it won't deflect too much and hit something below and that it does yield (plasticly deform). Yield is based on stress (MPa). Typical steel will yield with a stress around 200 Mpa. So how do I calc the stress and deflection? Well, you use a simplified model. An easy one is based on Euler Bernoulli. Download this app https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.sshh.mechengtoolbox

For some easy models. Fill in your values and you get your deflection and stresses. If you want to be very safe of your calcs, take a max yield stress of a bit lower than 200, say 100Mpa.

Good luck!

What's the deal with the swirly-bits on the intakes? I thought that stuff like this was thoroughly debunked.

Can someone ELI5 why we see it here?

I’d use a flapper sander wheel something like this

AvE has been on hackaday before... Infact it where i first heard of him many years ago Not this video in particular but example

Http://hackaday.com/2015/07/03/getting-mixed-up-with-home-stir-welding/

Are they? I've been under the impression that since moving manufacturing overseas, they started using drastically lower grade tool steel. I've also heard stories (one from my father) about wrenches snapping as though they were from Princess Auto or something. To imply their quality has diminished to the point of being as bad as Princess Auto garbage is definitely hyperbole, but the issues are still worth noting.

As someone who actually worked in overseas manufacturing, there definitely more to it than that, but as far as I know they're much, much more brittle than they used to be. This actually reminds me of a really good article I read about this general topic on Hackaday about a year ago. I'll see if I can track it down, cause it was honestly pretty accurate IMHO.

EDIT: Found the article! Also apparently forgot some words...

There is a new wave of Cell/DMR Radio phones coming out that look rugged, and can be used for 2-way comms as well. RF Finder is one, but Hytera makes one that eventually will be available in the US, which would be the one I'd probably go for.

There are other options rather than get sketchy with wrenches that are more affordable than hytorc tooling.You can fabricate torque attachments. Use super nuts or super bolts, 3/4” in 1” out torque multiplier. Hammer wrenches or impact wrenches although not precise are fine for loosening.

Hell you can get a torque wrench that goes to 1500(here) and a set of 1” drive sockets(and here) for under 2500$.

Edit: holy Shit balls the price of those sockets went up. Last set I bought cost 700$

You should be able to find a bearing packer tool just in a different style to match your application. You can find it for much cheaper as well, just a reference link.

I just ordered 2 different ones on amazon, because you said so. (total cost $29 vs $40 for the one at Ace Hardware, Sorry ace.)

I THINK I'm getting 1 smooth jaw and 1 serrated jaw as pictured.

A benchtop mill that isn't a rebranded Sieg? Well color me amazed.

Too heavy for my taste, I need something that I can move somewhat easily when needed. But if you can deal with a 350+ lb machine you'll probably be happier than I will be with the 100 lb one I'm buying next spring.

Make sure you get a good vise. (I can tell from the picture that the one on Amazon is going to be crap. https://www.amazon.com/350017-JMD-15-Milling-Drilling-Machine/dp/B0009H5TA0) Little Machine Shop is a good source, though you can probably go larger.

You'll need some R8 collets to match the end mills. (The end mill set from Harbor Freight is great for newbies like me. https://www.harborfreight.com/20-piece-titanium-nitrade-coated-end-mill-set-5947.html) Don't bother trying to mill anything using the drill chuck.

You can probably skip the clamping kit at first, other than a couple of T-nuts to hold down the vise.

You MUST get a dial indicator so you can align the vise. A test indicator is useful too, so maybe get a set that has both.

The Uline link above is Canadian as well. I was wondering why they were charging 40 bucks a box when you can get em for $22 US on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight-Honeywell-Visibility-Disposable/dp/B0007XJOLG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538083636&sr=8-3&keywords=laser+lite+earplugs&dpID=31EwvYZzuSL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I used my phone (Galaxy S5 at the time) for this exact purpose. I was using it to compare measured gain vs. calculated figures on an amplifier I was putting together. It worked fine for that purpose. If you wish to measure distortion, you'll need a cleaner source than a phone. Also, I noticed glitches in the output tone as a result of random background processes. Sometimes there were clicks and pops when opening the app (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.dutchmatic.patone) with the "headphones" connected. It might be good to put the phone in airplane mode while using it for this purpose. If you have a scope, a phone, and the FG, you might as well compare the signal output of the two and decide.

Edit: remembered app

don't know if particularly good, but china specials from the ebay, amazon, etc. usually work just fine.

random example.
https://www.amazon.com/TopDirect-TB6600-Stepper-Controller-Segments/dp/B07D6M6XC8

Great chucks. They are standard on the DeWILT cordless 20V hammer drills.They are 1/2-20, they hold tight and replacements aren't that expensive.

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DD7KUXO/

Essentially, this is very similar to what I have, and it works great.

https://www.amazon.ca/1000W-Voltage-Induction-Heating-Module/dp/B01HI5ZVUI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1537908199&sr=8-2&keywords=1000W+induction+coil

I have been running it with this

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075K1SQ44/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As one of the commenters below stated, I am going to try the flyback diode in series with this possibly along with a small fuse, even if it blows every time I would rather it not take the power supply with it.

Woah - that seems nuts - how is it that these splitters are using only 8.5 HP gas engines? Do you think this 7.5 HP motor rated for continuous RPM of 3450 would work? https://www.amazon.com/Leeson-Electric-Motor-7-5hp-230Volt/dp/B00HRXVHB4

That chart seems like it's sizing for overkill?

Someone asked me for a link to the app.

Here's the free version https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.julian.apps.VibrationsAds

And the ad free version https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.julian.apps.VibrationsAds

Mine has bits like these inside the handle.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-77080-Harmonic-Balancer-Socket/dp/B00RGNCV1U/ref=asc_df_B00RGNCV1U/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312373636797&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9289431535795492036&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&h...

This is magical

Chainsaws are great for cutting beams. One style of beam cutter is basically a chainsaw attachment for a circular saw https://smile.amazon.com/Prazi-USA-Blades-Cutter-Drive/dp/B0000224SA?sa-no-redirect=1

Some of them were less efficient 12 years ago when they really started coming into the market.

A 175w MH lamp does not set things on fire by light alone. They also make way smaller ones, I only had to reach 2 feet away for the one I pictured. Here you go. https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Ceramic-Halide-ConstantColor/dp/B007XKWT4K

Huh. That’s pretty cool.

$36 for the soldering iron and controller today on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Adjustable-temperature-Autosleep-electronics/dp/B08QYXSN59/

I’m curious how you tied into the charger circuitry to get low battery protection, unless the battery does that which it probably does now that I think about it or else you could hammer one to death in the tool.

I like it, nice job.

Last year I saw a review of this which said “too powerful, it knocked a bunch of stuff over” and immediately thought that’s the one for me!

PELONIS 16'' Pedestal Remote... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SWFZH32?

It doesn’t quite live up to the hype but it’s pretty good!

https://smile.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-CL120VP-Electrical-Accessories/dp/B09Y7VZ3Y2/ref=sr_1_29?crid=1ZY363HVBD3YN&keywords=cable+tracer+and+toner&qid=1656027955&refinements=p_89%3AKlein+Tools&rnid=2528832011&s=industrial&sprefix=cable+tracer%2Caps%2C115&sr=1-29

This tool works great. Not sure if it will be good for 12" or more of dirt. They make tools for this and sometimes they rent them at local equipment rental stores.

haven't found a 3, but here's a 4 flute one

With grinding wheels this big, especially if you're grinding loose material, you seriously should wear a Dedicated Grinding Helmet It will save your face from getting poked with wires, but the real benefit is you can wear an N95 respirator without it fogging up your safety glasses.

Yes, this guy (me) PPE's.

I found one on amazon:

Gimax 1PCS 7W2 30A Gold plated MALE FEMALE high current CONNECTOR D-SUB adapter solder type 5+2 plug jack high power 7 Power Position - (Color: 1pcs 7 needle)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QBXVTB3

The frame is a box made out of edge-on 2 by 4s, with a couple cross braces. No middle leg needed. For the folding legs, I have just another square made out of jointed 2 by's, with this hardware from Amazon attaching the legs to the frame after the hinges are installed.

Also! I forgot, grab yourself one of these

And one of these

It’s the best setup for the big impacts.

https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Electric-Starter-electric-switches/dp/B09DT8NP9K/ref=sr_1_34_sspa?keywords=240v%2Bmagnetic%2Bswitch&qid=1649906518&sr=8-34-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFESjFPTTJaWFVCSlMmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwMzk0NThYMTVOSVkyN0xURVgmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDM0NzM0ODIwTk5MQVZVUEZTUTEmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGZfbmV4dCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1

This one shows wiring diagrams for 3 phase and Single phase. I believe the Big horn switch can be used the same way.

Surprisingly Amazon got these in stock.

https://www.amazon.com/Big-Horn-18839-220-240-Volt-22-34-Amp/dp/B002LVUWJ0/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?crid=3DYXJ05X9M3OL&keywords=240v+magnetic+switch&qid=1649904969&sprefix=magnetic+switch+2%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-8#

Pedantic party of 1?

This is a ford wrench

OP has a monkey wrench

Not trying to call you out, just a "The more you know" moment.

The are also snap on heat sinks for small industrial motors that could give you a starting point.

Here is an example, although I don't know what other sizes they come in

I use these on the motors of my son's power wheels car so it can use my 18v lithium tool batteries. A good time for all.

I know nothing about brewing beer but apparently it's not acidic enough http://beersmith.com/blog/2010/08/17/aluminum-vs-stainless-best-beer-brewing-pots/

Also apparently the pros use stainless steel, not aluminum.

That the aluminum gets pitted and won't last is a little worrying. Although it really depends in how much beer that aluminum lands. If it's diluted enough, I guess it's not an issue.

They also use copper apparently https://www.amazon.com/NY-Brew-Supply-AZ-W1250-CG-Chiller/dp/B01893T104

So I'm not sure we can deduce anything about the relative safety of copper vs aluminum by looking at the beer brewing industry.

UVPEESE Tactical Beer Mug ,Battle Cup with 20mm Rail and Rear Sight Handle ,Solid Multifunction Aluminum Detachable Carry Outdoor Sport https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B09F2PPX8K

That'll cool it off just fine.

Every year or two I’ll take apart a tool and give it a good cleaning. Repack the gears with some good Molly grease and clean the plaster dust off the motor with this stuff which you can find at most auto part stores.
That’s the best way to breathe life back into a tool after something like this.
Alternatively, take some good old Water Displacement # 40 and hose it down. It will wash the grease out of your gears and bearings, so it’s best not to do it unless necessary, but WD40 is a lifesaver when your table saw or tool bag gets rained on. Just spray everything and clean it off with paper towels.

Newark seems to have a few thousand of them https://canada.newark.com/omron/g2rl-1a-e-cv-dc12/general-purpose-relay-g2rl-series/dp/71P2181

Other than that it looks very familiar, i think its a common size.

Most of the world is around 220v http://wikitravel.org/en/Electrical_systems

The Schuko plug which is used in most of europe ensures that you cannot touch a live contact and also earth always connects before any of the pins receive voltage.

the smaller small devices plug is also designed in a way that the pins are plastic with metal tips so you cannot touch metal parts having voltage by half pulling out the plug.

I managed to use a plug of a light in a US hotel as a makeshift adapter by pulling it half way out, then clipping my European phone charger onto the still live pins

Norseman super premium Magnum drill bits

Amazon

Norseman website

Don't buy a rectifier, as previously mentioned, this is definitely not expecting a DC input.

How about just getting a stepdown transformer so you can plug it in and go?

https://www.amazon.com/ELC-T-1000-1000-Watt-Converter-Transformer/dp/B07TP72JVK/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=step+down+transformer+220v+to+110v&qid=1641246113&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=ALEWIQ2F9CQDR&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFETlhDOTRGTDAzSjAmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA3NDY4NzY1UTJVNlZBVTRJQzYmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDk0OTM4ODJDRk9YNEU1QzI5Q0Ymd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Det här kanske är nåt...

Oh fyi Amazon has make your own kits

Iconikal DIY Make-Your-Own Christmas Party Favor, 12-Pack (Nutcrackers & Trees) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BLT56LF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_C5JAAM3KDV9J89EQ1M22?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I have about 4 of these spotlights floating around for general farm usage. I initially bought one because it was cheap and I just needed a temporary solution, but after 4 years of daily use it is still going strong. Super bright with a long throw and also has a work light built into the stand.

r/https://tinyurl.com/y9qafnny

This is a midrange model, theyre mostly used as retractable tool drops. You can get them in different weight ranges and you can adjust the tension through the knob on the side. The tension also increases the further you pull the cord, I'm thinking it would automatically add tension as the beam is extended outwards. I thought it may be a simple light weight solution to the counter balance issue here.

For those who care, this is the Ruy Lopez opening: Classic Berlin defense Play around with it here.

$200 for the USB-C - FLIR ONE Gen 3 Thermal Camera for Smart Phones - with MSX Image Enhancement Technology https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0728C7KNC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_DRJP5HQC7FJT9WYHGG5M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I was thinking about the problem of rapidly changing prices.

It would add someone in and add a fee, but one could immediately cash it out, or cash it out in hour increments. I guess you could let the creators decide. It all sort of averages out.

Honestly, with the right setup, like https://shapeshift.io/#/coins tied in, you could take any crypto. Of course you are back to middle men. I am sure there is open/free library that one could use that would also allow taking in any coin a creator would want to accept.

Tons of possibilities. I wish I had the time to slap something together or enough faith in my skills to make it secure. I wonder if /u/rawb0t has anything that might make this a possibility. I am even a little unsure on how much server and bandwidth one would need to make it, so unsure on what fees to charge. Also not sure where I would be stomping on the toes of Patreon and their, likely, patented or copyrighted processes.

Sure! Apparently they just barely announced it. I spent almost a year trying to give them money as a student of a school with a site license to no avail, so I was flabbergasted. It seems to only be available for the current Windows platform.

Here's the YouTube video where I first learned about it on New Year's Day. You have to havea group code (which seem to have been circulated to social media makers' groups). All the details (URL, codes etc) are mentioned in the video and go directly to the SolidWorks' site. Technically, it appears that they differentiate between the "Student" and "Hobbyist" licenses, but what is downloaded seems to be the same versions of the software.

any of the SPICE engines.

http://ngspice.sourceforge.net/ngspice-eeschema.html

You still need to write SPICE models for parts, or find them.

If you're looking for board-level signal analysis stuff, like for fancy RF design on PCBs where you need to worry about signals goign where they shouldn't, that's not doable in KiCad. Nor is it easy in the expensive software that advertises those features. Chances are you don't need it.

MakerHawk Digital Load Cell Weight Sensor HX711 AD Converter Breakout Module 5KG Portable Electronic Kitchen Scale for Arduino Scale https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GQPV6C4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_15PDBMHD8PRK4HMJJPE7

You have never seen a Milton Blowgun?

This is like the iconic blowgun of our time. It hasn't changed since it came out in probably the late 60's early 70's. I think every tool truck I've ever been on has them

https://www.amazon.ca/Enrilior-Bearing-Puller-Remover-Removal/dp/B08CXSR9ZY?ref_=Oct_d_omwf_d_7421042011&pd_rd_w=Waj5g&pf_rd_p=51528d62-277d-4b2d-8a80-77fb6fcc4754&pf_rd_r=T4S16JPFRKXB8PQ0GPDQ&pd_rd_r=9fb30aac-d5a6-4664-8427-984cc919f477&pd_rd_wg=exM60&pd_rd_i=B08CXSR9ZY

That's the Shinwa penguin!

I just got a Shinwa try square which has a totally unnecessary and extremely pleasing cutout with some etching in. It's a beautifully made thing.

Amazon and other places still sell the same %lead and it is still radio shack solder RadioShack SnPb 60/40 Rosin-Core Solder, 0.062" Diameter - 1.5 oz. Spool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Z7MH5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VCJSSTV2YSVTV04NSHC5

I wonder if you put an arch punch on an impact tool. Like if you could weld one of these to a rotohammer tang or something... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7WB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_C95PM68RVWWSM6G3VHKN

they show up in thrift stores once in a while. Also Amazon has some

https://www.amazon.com/Sewing-Machine-Motor-Foot-Pedal/dp/B0893JHD3H/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=sewing+machine+motor&qid=1615509408&sr=8-2

Nail puller is what you need, something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Faithfull-NAILPULL-600mm-24-inch-Puller/dp/B001CKAR4Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?_encoding=UTF8&c=ts&dchild=1&keywords=Nail+Pullers&qid=1614012151&s=diy&sr=1-3&ts_id=1938967031

Makes removing nails a whole heap easier

https://www.amazon.com/Trusco-ST-350-B-2-Level-Toolbox/dp/B002A5S3ZM/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=trusco+toolbox&qid=1611949277&sr=8-1

This is the one I ended up getting. I looked and found it for a bit cheaper on some Japanese websites, but with shipping it ended up costing way more. I honestly thought that 70$ for this would be a bit much, but actually getting my hands on it I think its worth every penny.

That is just a placeholder logo I tossed in until I figure out what I actually want. It may be a subtle reference to my first book. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08B39QPLK