Harmony is your best bet, and probably not much more expensive than any alternatives out there.
A base level Harmony (with remote and hub) is currently $78 on Amazon.
Why no love for SharpTools? :)
It maps to step 6 from your setup:
A Thing
to put on your screen, then select the ~~task~~ Thing
you want your widget to control. Better yet, if you use the 'A Thing (Widget)' option, it will set the widget up so it displays the current state of the selected device (eg. on/off, open/closed, motion/no motion) with push events!
PS. I'm the developer of SharpTools, so I might be a bit biased, but it does make things easy!
Edit: Oh, and you can dim or run any command with SharpTools. :P
There are Z-wave outdoor switched plugs.
Maybe you could put a series of them in your landscaping or trees, maybe have them ready for Christmas lights or something. The GE ones at least look to function well as repeaters.
The Android app is currently rated 3.7 stars. Not bad, but not great.
In my opinion, the app does everything it needs to. But it just doesn't feel intuitive. For the Android app at least, you have the 5 bottom tabs that bring up different pages. And each page usually have several tabs on it. It took me longer than I care to admit to figure out how to add a new smartapp.
That being said, once I have everything set up the way I want it, I hardly ever open the SmartThings app, which I think should be the intention.
I'm also disappointed by the lack of SmartThings widgets for Android. They currently have 1, where you can change the mode. But there are no switch widgets or light dimmer sliders or anything that should be relatively easy to add. Yeah, I can make the widgets using Tasker, but the fact is, I shouldn't have to.
This person uses a dome-zwave water shut off valve to open a projector door. It would probably work. I don't have this exact model (I use a chinese WiFi one flashed with custom firmware), but the shutoff valves have a stupid amount of torque.
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I had an issue with cabinet overheating for something similar, and I ended up setting up a system that ran PC fans when the cabinet rose above a specific. It was a one hour job to install everything. I know you said no cutting holes, but if you do that, you can make smaller holes and if you did it under the cabinets out of sight it would be pretty straight forward (around the area that your pipes come through).
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A smart plug with power monitoring or amp clamp could also be a good way for you to figure out when it runs, though I would personally do a temp sensor.
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Out of curiosity, what sparkling water system are you using? I am building one DIY style but not decided on a chiller yet.
I use the Linear GoControl controller. It's Z-Wave Plus. It's not a garage door opener itself, just the controller - you just wire it up to the terminals in the opener that the open/close button in your garage is connected to.
$19.99, down from MSRP of $99.99
BUT this is not a new deal. It's been around this price for over 6 months according to camel^3.
Here's the direct link to Amazon without the affiliate links attached:
https://www.amazon.com/Sengled-Bluetooth-Speaker-Controlled-Compatible/dp/B00OZSSD6Q/
I used ImperiHome (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.imperihome.lite&hl=en) with my old VeraLite but I've moved onto Smartthings.
Apparently support has been ready for several months but Samsung has been dragging their heals with the approval process. ImperiHome is asking for users to help raise awareness with Samsung by retweeting their post (https://twitter.com/ImperiHome/status/902582035079933952)
ImperiHome is a great mature and highly customizable app. which could fill in the gaps left behind by the Smartthings app.
If you'd like to see Smartthings support for ImperiHome please consider helping by retweeting.
Go to your local Lowe's stores. There are many smart devices on same from GE, Iris and Schalge.
Check out Slickdeals for GE smart plugs, switches and dimmers.
I ordered two as well. Using the $10 coupon code posted previously, plus the $20 credit available from American Express. Which netted me 2 devices and an additional $18 in my pocket.
Link for the lazy. I picked up two to get over $40 at which I could apply another $10 off. Effectively two for $10, hell of a deal.
For those that have been on the fence on Google Home vs Alexa, I would say GHome is better. The big feature for me is GHome will actually follow "Turn everything off" and shut everything down. For anyone with a Harmony hub, the integration isn't stellar, but it does technically work.
Dropcam has not enabled motion sensing notification from it's API that connects with Smartthings.
However, if you enable Email notification when Dropcam detects motion, you can create a Hue lights channel rule using ifttt.com to detect that email and then act on Hue lights (without Smartthings really needed at all).
Here's a sample IFTTT Recipe
I set up my under cabinet lighting this way with:
The wall switch controls all of the under cabinet lighting, and the motion sensor is wired up in a lighting automation routine. You can use pretty much any z-wave or zigbee wall switch (or dimmer if your lighting load supports it) in this scenario. Any ST-compatible motion sensor will work as well.
Withe the walls open, why not just hardwire the lighting now, and leave all the outlets unswitched? If you're using LED strip lighting, you can install a proper IC rated driver and install behind the drywall to keep it out of sight.
Aeotec Smart Home Hub, Works As A SmartThings Hub, ZWave Zigbee WiFi Gateway, Compatible with Alexa, Nest, Google Home, Samsung, Philips Hue, Lutron, Sonos, Ring Cameras, Arlo and Many More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TWDNQ5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DNYS4NW4XV7067GAQ7DM
For my cheap plugs, that are currently available, then I’d lean towards Sylvania, securifi Peanut or ikea tradfri.
SYLVANIA SMART+ ZigBee Smart Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6UM8QD
Securifi Peanut Smart Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TC9NC82
I got these - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TC2YL19/ref=dp_iou_view_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - and spliced up an extension cord.
While not hooked into my home automation, I installed an AC Infinity AIRPLATE T3 to cool my equipment closet. It is $50 at Amazon and comes with a pretty smart thermostat with a couple of control modes. The installation and setup was relatively painless and it works quite well.
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BOND | Smart Home Automation | Make Your Old Ceiling Fan or Fireplace Smart Through WiFi | Works with Alexa and Google Home | Remote Control with App | Compatible with iPhone or Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_b9hECbG247AEX
Assuming you're in the US, I've had great experiences with the GE Z-Wave Plus Recepticle. It has one always-on outlet and one controllable outlet, and also is a Z-Wave repeater. I have five of these in the house and they've worked flawlessly for over two years. They are physically rather large, so if you have many wires in your recepticle box, you may have trouble squeezing this in. I have two outlets where the previous owner used the box as a junction box, and I couldn't make this fit with all the wire nuts taking up space.
There'll be an account migration later on, but you can use the SmartThings Classic app with your existing ST account until it makes sense to migrate your devices and configurations over.
If you literally want SmartThings integration with Tasker, then I would look at SharpTools (an app I developed). SharpTools provides Tasker integration and widgets for SmartThings. It has support for controlling Things, Routines, and Modes and has the ability to subscribe to Thing attributes and location mode changes so you can react to those events in Tasker.
You can find some examples here: http://sharptools.boshdirect.com/examples-list
This IFTTT applet can add your current gps location and the time to a spreadsheet just by tapping a widget on your phone.
I use the Hue function built in to F.lux. It reduces blue light later in the day on your computer monitors to help you sleep, but it also has a Hue function to have your lights match the change. I like it quite well.
There would be too much lag since SmartThings is married to the cloud. You'd probably also want something more sensitive than (most? all?) Z-Wave multisensors.
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At the very least, you might want to take some of this to the local level via Home Assistant for a faster response time.
I'm referring to this tool: https://home-assistant.io/
Which can definitely send networked mp3 files to any supported media device, since that's also how its text-to-speech component works. Here's an example they have of playing different lullabies based on an input you can configure on the dashboard. But you can make the trigger anything, since it has a variety of presence detection capabilities.
Personally I use cell phones on the wifi network to determine who's home, and have automation actions based on that, like turning off all the lights and devices when no one's home.
The one annoying thing is that getting SmartThings to work with it can be a bit of a hassle, since you need to use MQTT as a bridge between them because it's the only way you can control SmartThings within the local LAN without forcing everything to go through the cloud.
This isn't necessary true, you can write a DTH that communicates over the LAN that the hub is connected to.
Google has a "Find my Device" feature/app that's available for all android devices (including Samsung ones).
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.apps.adm
I most frequently locate a missing phone by asking Google Home to "find my phone"
The SmartThings app is available on Pixel (though I've since moved along to Hubitat and then Home Assistant for smarthome stuff)
Using a Galaxy Watch 4 for the past month with a Pixel 4XL. The hacked app gets the ECG and blood pressure to work, but I haven't really used tose features. I haven't run into anything else that doesn't work because I have a Pixel. Notifications have worked great. I moved over to using the Samsung Health stuff on the watch and am using Health Sync to get the data over into Google Fit on the phone side of things.
I used this one - https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Outlet-GP-U999SJVLDAA-Smart/dp/B07F96JB63
It's rated for 15 Amp, which is more than enough for my washer and dryer. I ran the washer once to see how much power it draws and then set automation to notify me if it dropped below a specific w. I did the same for my dryer.
I now get notified when the clothes need to be moved to the dryer and notified when the dryer is finished. I also use tasker to cast the notifications to my google home speakers.
This one doesn't require a unique device handler, but you do have to go into the settings to change the type from "Thing" to "Zigbee Motion Detector" then it will work great.
Thanks again.
I know I’m drifting from the specific topic but… last question (probably!). Did you use the Nortek? Unless I have the wrong model, I believe this is the only solution for both Zigbee and Z-wave that doesn’t require soldering, etc.
We only have one Z-wave but being that it’s a front door lock we’d hate to replace it. We can convert it to HomeKit but then it loses geofencing features. It costs almost as much to replace as probably everything else still on Zigbee.
Definitely a cable harness underneath (something like a J channel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WPXHD7 but mounted flush against the underside) and possibly matching cable holes with covers to pass cables under. USB-C plugs look awesome but in practical life, wait until something falls in them - thinking a metal clip… Also, wiring channel through back legs, with multiple height exits to route the desk power cable. Ok, I’ll stop here 🙀
Shame that's not available for Android Auto for phone screens
Not everyone have a new car which has a AA supported screen (welcome to Finland where cars' average age is ~12 years)
This, and i found a new one i like. Works well and its native to ST and has 2 individually controllable outlets. Got on sale for about 20. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TF6YN43/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_gBFaGb749XFQP
I had no problems connecting, but there is an issue that rears it's ugly head that it disconnects from the hub and can't find a pathway back. (My understanding is that the Schlage tries to find a direct route back to the hub, rather than using the mesh network - found this piece of info in the smartthings community forum.)
I put one of these into the outlet closest to the schlage lock that was giving me trouble, and the problem seems to have completely disappeared: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Range-Extender-Z-Wave-repeater/dp/B01M6CKJXC/ref=sr_1_4?crid=396REUD1V3PRQ&dchild=1&keywords=zwave+extender&qid=1610733023&s=electronics&sprefix=zwave+ext%2Celectronics%2C193&sr=1-4
That seems like absolute overkill. Get a small exhaust fan and put it somewhere on the cabinet where it isn’t visible. It will work like a charm.
AC Infinity AXIAL LS1238, Quiet Muffin Fan, 120V AC 120mm x 38mm Low Speed, UL-Certified for DIY Cooling Ventilation Exhaust Projectshttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CZRKTBZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_cAU0FbJG3TCPZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I found a cheap and AMAZING solution to this. I bought a cheap Honeywell WAVE2 siren off of Ebay ($5) and plugged it into a smart plug that's connected to a UPS battery backup. The siren, power cable, and smart plug, all cost $20.
https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-WAVE-2-Two-Tone-Siren/dp/B0006BCCAE/
Why? Welp, it was cheap, stupid simple, and it's fairly bulletproof. Also, I can add more sirens for cheap.
To your point, all the sirens that I've seen are expensive and poorly reviewed. The WAVE2 is a dumb siren that is loud and starts going the moment it has power. I used an old 12V/1amp ac adapter from a old cable box ($3 on eBay if you need to buy one), plugged into a really good smart plug (can find well-reviewed ones for pretty much any wireless protocol), and I have battery backups for all of my system, so there's no need to rely on the battery inside the siren.
For Zwave automation, I used SmartThings, but Amazon will work too: If system is armed & if sensor is tripped, then smart plug turns on and siren turns on.
I have a Third Reality smart switch that's been working great for the month that I've had it
https://www.amazon.com/THIRDREALITY-Smart-Light-Switch-1PACK/dp/B07K3TRG6W
In practice, once the sensor gets wet the first time, you need to address the problem and can dismiss the notification?
Anyway, for sirens, most people get this one: https://www.amazon.com/Siren-Gen5-ZW080-A17-Aeotec-Cert/dp/B00PKKM2HO/ref=pd_cp_421_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=J5P8FVHPQW7WP0WDBNH7
Or for tones/sounds and not a siren, this one:: https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-ZW056-z-wave-doorbell/dp/B0182XG27Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1477319646&sr=1-1&keywords=aotec+doorbell
An Amazon Echo can speak voice notifications "Water leak detected under kitchen sink".
You could also pair a colored light bulb and have that flash red or something.
Hi Mike! There used to be a 3rd-party device handler for Chamberlain MyQ openers, but it seems that it has been discontinued: https://community.smartthings.com/t/discontinuation-of-myq-connect-community-smartapp/47183
Another option is to use the GoControl unit that connects to your existing garage door opener: https://smile.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU. It has native integration with ST as well as options for third party device handlers that extend the functionality. The price on Amazon is a bit high right now, but I've seen it around $65 in the past. If you're not in any hurry, use camelcamelcamel.com to track the Amazon price and notify you when it decreases or hits a target price you configure.
I can't help much with the camera portion of your question, but I'm interested to see what others have to say as well. This is something I'm still deciding on also.
Ive been thinking of trying out those USB LED strips, plugged into a phone charger USB plug, plugged into a leviton zwave outlet. My kitchen isn't large and is setup kinda funny. Two sections are 4ft
Amazon cost is like $9
40 inch USB 5v 5050 60SMD/M RGB TV Bias Background Lights 1m Led Strip Lighting with 24 keys IR Remote Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M5AUVTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lryFybY55F1YA
You're right! I do wish we had a battery backup =(
But I did some research a little while ago, and I found a few products on Amazon that could be helpful - if you search "12v battery backup" you'll find a few results like this one for less than $30, that lets you operate without electricity for a little while.
DISCLAIMER: I haven't tried it myself, so I can't promise that it will work, or that they're safe, etc. - just wanted to show you a potential inexpensive solution might be out there!
I was just scoping out a couple of options, apparently there are some ZigBee Repeaters built into some plug-in modules:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073GV2PQY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9GKOWO
And apparently ZigBee Light Bulbs also act as repeaters, but if you shut them off at a main switch and not via the bulb itself (by the ST Hub), then the Repeater won't have power to do so. So these might just work for you without having to ditch your current investment. One great thing about Amazon is the return policy, it's not 100% and might have to pay restocking fees, but at least you wouldn't be out all of your investment.
Maybe this will be better in your situation? And of course, a second Hub is always a consideration, I just didn't want to deal with it! Good luck!
The first thing that comes to mind is the ST multipurpose sensor. It's an open/close sensor with vibration. They're usually around for about $20 as Amazon lightning deals or warehouse deals. https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-F-MLT-US-2-Multipurpose-Sensor/dp/B0118RQW3W
I made an alarm by using an IOT plug and a horn I bought on amazon. I did have to wire power into the horn so it could plug in.
When any of my doors open when armed, it turns on that plug and the siren goes off. It's loud. Of course if you don;'t want to fuck around, you can use a z-wave siren for about $30.
There are number of scene controllers on Amazon. I am using this one with smart things
Enerwave ZWN-SC7 Z-Wave Scene Controller 7-Button Switch, 2 Free Wall Plates, NEUTRAL WIRING REQUIRED - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RY4LP5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4E05Ab4X1K73Y
Before you buy, check the smart things forum for other users and if there is a device handler.
The August installation is very easy. https://support.august.com/install-smart-lock-pro-3rd-gen-technology-Hy7eDIy0Of
Truthfully, I don't think you need the expertise of an electrician or a carpenter. If you didn't want to do it yourself, a handyman of sorts would be enough. Maybe a locksmith if you wanted someone with expertise in this particular area, though you would still need to connect it to smartthings yourself.
Edit: Even better, if you buy it from amazon, you can select "with expert installation" for around $100, and you should be guaranteed to get someone who's done it before.
If you don't have a SmartThings hub, you can pick up a starter kit (with the version 2 hub...still good it's what I use) for $99 on Amazon:
The kit contains:
For a deadbolt, I use Kwikset 910 Z-Wave:
It's great not having to take keys out of my pocket.
Once I got into the whole smart house thing, I went "all-in" and currently have:
Maybe recessed down light. Or retrofit. Or can light.
Amazon link to hue’s offering: Philips Hue White Ambiance Dimmable LED Smart Retrofit Recessed Downlight (4-Inch Compatible with Amazon Alexa Apple HomeKit and Google Assistant) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0798P29FV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lHH4Bb2R0121F
For those interested in the same switch, but is also a dimmer.... Amazon has them at an all-time-low of $30.09. (Normally $44.00)
KVM-based Virtual Machine (all running under Proxmox) with USB passthrough of an Aeotec Z-Wave stick. Hourly snapshots are taken, so even if I nuke my setup, I can restore from a backup in a matter of minutes.
I'm not who you asked, but FWIW: I use the Z-Wave USB dongle by Aeotec with Home Assistant and it works well. You can also use this to force devices to unpair.
The SmartThings remote button also measures temperature and is only $13:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F8ZFFQK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Keep in mind these sensors depend on your network - if you have other switches and devices nearby it should be fine but if this is in a location outside the range of other devices you might need a signal repeater...
I think you could do something like this thing, an in wall zwave switch, though I’m not sure of a current brand/model off hand given this one is discontinued.
Z-Wave In-Wall Fixture Module
https://www.homedepot.com/p/206590919
Edit:
Think this is what you need:
ENERWAVE Z-Wave Plus Relay, Hidden Smart Switch Wireless Remote Control to Lights and Ceiling Fans, 120-277VAC, 10A, Neutral Wire Required, ZWN-RSM1-PLUS, Black https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_moQwFbH61P8RV
>I had it working with an inovelli switch for quite awhile and then it crapped out
The Inovelli switch crapped out or the GE switch? GE switches require you to have an auxiliary switch for them to work in a 3-Way, so if you're using a dummy switch (existing, $2 switch at Lowes), it will not work.
If you give me more context, I can also help alongside u/TomCustomTech.
Here are my questions:
Once I know those answers, I can help you.
Eric
Founder | Inovelli
I have one of these: KERUI Upgraded Wireless Live Loud Siren Host,Indoor/Outdoor Waterproof Horn up to 115dB for Home Security Alarm System,Can't Work Alone,Have to Work with KERUI Sensors as Home Garage Shed Alarm System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0749G4PNC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DmwsFbJ93F741
It’s not technically for outside but I have it under an overhang from the house with no issues yet. I have it hooked up to a smart plug and automate it that way.
Don't do that to your wife!
Buy this instead and connect it to a pressure mat underneath the bed. This way you can tell when someone is on the bed (really great to automate "good night")
Here's a playstore link https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.life360.android.safetymapd
Setup a circle at your house. Install the app on all phones you want to be a presence sensor. There's a snart things device you cab setup for it in the smartthings app
I wait until Prime Day or Black Friday and then load up on Amazon Fire tablets. Sometimes you can get them for as cheap as $30 each. I have 5 of them in my house running ActionTiles. You can use the Wakey app to keep them from going to sleep. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.doublep.wakey&hl=en_US
Which version of the app are you using? There are two SmartThings apps.
I use this one: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.smartthings.android
They have said everyone will have to migrate to the other one eventually, but I'm going to hold out on the older version as long as I can.
You can use an Android device with LANnouncer.
Install the app on the Android device, add the device in SmartThings, send whatever text you want to have spoken to the Android device.
SharpTools also has a TV mode which supports Android TV devices like the Shield TV, Nexus Player, etc... as well as the Amazon Fire TV:
I've been really happy with third reality. some of them are "amazon's choice" and all of them are pretty good without feeling/acting cheap
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0BF9W3WMK?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
I bought a couple of the Aeotec motion sensors for the bedrooms to use with smart light control, they also report the temp.
I recently bought four Aeotec Smartthings buttons to run scenes, etc. It comes with a temperature sensor in-built and three activation modes: press, double-press, and long-press.
I just bought these for this exact purpose and they have a manual button on them too. They don't do energy monitoring or anything fancy, but they're cheap & easy.
SONOFF S40 Lite 15A Zigbee Smart... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09XMFX4Y7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Do you have a smartthings hub? If not then this is maybe the wrong place to ask. Samsung S22 phone is "Android" but not "Smartthings". Your ecosystem of choice (Smartthings, Apple HomeKit, Alexa, Google Assistant, etc) is the first stop.
I have one of these. It works with smartthings (as well as others). It uses WiFi (not zwave/zigbee) so you have to do a one time setup to connect to your home wifi, then link Meross backend with Smartthings, their instructions were pretty straight forward. [Or if not using Smartthings can connect with the other popular ecosystems].
From there you can use ST device settings and/or automations to control the light or use the Meross App directly. It's plug-in but at max brightness I'd say it's maybe equivalent to a 15W bulb (ie not that bright). If your room is otherwise dark it might alert you but if it's pre-dawn you might not notice.
Another option might be to get a smart outlet, then any lamp would work on/off, just need to make sure not to turn the lamp off at the lamp. Just make sure the outlet works with your automation ecosystem as per above.
I bought the Tradfri buttons, all of them drained the battery within a day or two. It's a known issue. The Aeotec one works well but it's a little pricey at $29.
Sorry I don’t know everything. What do you mean by a edge driver? I bought the sensor from Amazon using the link: Aqara Motion Sensor, REQUIRES... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D1CRRVF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Why? Just get a Zigbee & ZWave USB adaptor. They're less than $30.00 CAD on Amazon.
Then you can ditch that stupid hub forever.
I have some Innr plugs that I used in the past and never really had issues getting them connected. That said, I have since switched to these Sengled plugs and find them much better. When you add the Innr plugs try to plug them in somewhere close to your hub first to get them connected then you can move them. Your Zigbee/zwave plugs will create their own mesh network as they act as repeaters (at least the Sengled ones do).
A word of advice about water/flood sensors. Get on that also has an audible alarm. I had an original Zwave Smartthings sensor and it worked great. When my basement flooded it sent an alert to my phone. But it was the middle of the night and my phone was in Do Not Disturb mode. So I never heard the alerts. I now have two sensors, the second one will wake me up.
I have Smartthings Hub V3 and use these plugs from amazon:
They work very well. I live in a rural area and have a greenhouse (which is 90 feet away) and a chicken coop (110 feet away) and both work well. I use them to schedule heating devices like an oil radiator and heat lamp using Smartthings app on my Pixel 7.
Found these on Amazon .
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$89 each.
some others cheaper. Prol some god awful POS, but so cheap who cares?
This should be the one I have. If you search the customer Q&A section there are a couple of people confirming that these do not have repeaters.
GE came out with gen 2 on those switches.
Here's a new dimmer model from GE. It is rated to 300W for LEDs, and 600W for incandescent.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Enbrighten-SimpleWire-SmartThings-46203/dp/B07RRD92T8/
I've also had good luck with a Zooz 4-in-1, after a bit of fiddling in ST. Read a lot that Aqara are also top notch. OP could do far worse than either of these brands.
My remote (same solar one) plain died on me....after research, most all other Samsung remotes are compatible! I'm using one from a 2014-ish SamsungTV model in my guest room for my new 8K in my media room, till my new $12 replacement arrives today. Here's what I replaced the new solar remote with, and I like it doesn't have the annoying Netflix/Amazon/STV button on it - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FQTYZ52/
I use these outlets with Smartthings and they have been working perfectly for me. I use it together with a webcore piston to notify me when my washer and dryer loads have finished. Bonus that they act as zigbee repeaters for my door/window sensors.
I have not looked in awhile, and when I asked Samsung SmartThings directly, the answer was "no".
I did find this and tried using it, but it wound up being mostly useless:
As others suggest, I was able to get it to work using IFTTT. Instructions follow.
NOTES:
A) Instructions below are using Android app version 1.7.73.22 — steps may vary in your app version.
B) Instructions below assume lock is already connected in and controllable by SmartThings app.
Connecting SmartThings To Google
This is what I use…
I have several installed in the sink water lines to turn on the light above the sink and installed on the standpipe between the shower valve and shower head which turns on the exhaust fan, shower light and closes the blinds. I have each of the flow switches connected to a leak detector to activate routines. These are inexpensive, easy to install and have been maintenance free for 2+ years.
For Smartthings Fibaro makes a big red button for On/Off, I haven't tried it though. Also Aeotec makes a Wallmote that can be placed near your bed, it can be used as a on/off switch or as a scene selector. Both of these options would require a smart switch attached to your TV plug.
Non-Smart: GE has a Wireless switch that works with a plug module that works great. You can attach it to your wall or just place it on your night stand. I've used one to control lamps in my bedroom for years. I have another one in my attic.
I've used this Z-Wave outdoor dual plug for my Christmas lights with SmartThings for two seasons so far. Had no issues the second year, when I brought it out of storage. ST found it again after it was plugged in and I did not need to perform any re-pairing.
There's a wizard in IFTT which sets this up for you. It's called "Play a favorite with Amazon Alexa".
https://ifttt.com/applets/YAaxFveK-play-a-favorite-with-amazon-alexa
I'm now wondering how to create another one of these. Does anyone know if this is possible?
I have the Tradfri 5-button remote, the Aqara Wireless Mini Switch, the Hank 4-key Scene controller, and the Zooz Zen 34.
The Tradfri has worked fine, I guess I've been lucky in avoiding the battery drain problem other people have complained about. I like that they're a little bit bulky which makes them harder to lose. I wish I had gotten a couple of extra ones since they've been discontinued.
The Aqaras are just simple single buttons, and if they worked better they'd be useful for specific tasks. But they are flaky about staying connected, so I can't recommend them.
The Hank remotes are great, though, and would make good replacements for the Ikea remotes. Smaller but not tiny, they require a custom DH, which is available from The Smartest House, which is where I bought the remote. They have a rechargeable battery, too, a feature I wish more manufacturers would adopt.
The Zooz is the only one of these that's Z-Wave, if that matters. It has more functions than I know what to do with and so far it's worked flawlessly. It looks like an ordinary rocker light switch, and it works like one, offering up/down press and hold. I bought it intending just to use it to open/close our garage doors and switch our outside lights. But it also allows you to program up/down press 2x, 3x, 4x, 5x, and 6x. You'd need a crib sheet to remember that many functions! So many options for $25.
I use the SONOFF Zigbee 3.0 USB Dongle Plus Gateway. Home Assistant found it once it booted. I have 24 devices connected with no issues. Sonof button, Hue bulbs, and motions sensors, along with generic ZigBee motion and contact sensors.
I use it on Windows 10, but you can use Linux and I'm fairly certain Mac.
No neutral needed, best on the market, very highly rated. It’s not cheap, but you get what you pay for ..
Lutron Caseta Smart Start Kit, Dimmer Switch with Smart Bridge and Wall Mount Pico Adapter, Compatible with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and The Google Assistant | P-BDG-PKG1W-A | White https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07G5V6M6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JNCDWD2NSM0Z2P93JWDC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
seeing as this is the samsung smartthings subreddit...are you using Smartthings as the actual controller for devices, or do you have the apps specific to the brands of smart devices and then linking to Google Home?
I have a garage opener that connects to Smartthings via Z-Wave. Everything from Smartthings can then be shared to Google Home and controlled via either the Smartthings App or Google Home App.
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The problem with using the individual brand apps is that they are 3rd party that have to get special permissions from Google. Using something like Smartthings or Home Assistant and connecting directly to the smart devices via Z-wave is going to give a much more seamless experience. Is the Liftmaster device something that you had to wire in-line with the garage opener, or a device that acts more like a universal opener, where you had to program the device to work with your opener?
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I wires directly to the opener and acts like a second button. my hub sees it as another Z-wave momentary button to activate the garage. Mine came with a small battery device to attach to the garage door which detects if it is open or not based on orientation.
seems like you can do this, just with IFTTT's location services, and the Sensibo services. You've clearly got access to both of those, and they're not being discontinued.
Leave Alexa (and smartthings) out of the "turn it off when i leave" situation. You can still use Alexa to adjust the AC when you're home, talking to it.
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Thanks so much for the big write up! Super helpful!! I think I'll get the Hub ordered today from Amazon then I can get started building my smart home around it :)
As for switches, that is a great idea! Never thought of thst. Would something like this work with the SmartThings Hub?
I started with Smartthings in 2017, and switched over to Hubitat in 2020. Hubitat is so much easier, although the UI admittedly isn't as polished. I like using the Hubitat Dashboard app - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.jpage4500.hubitat
Use this motion sensor for our upstairs loft area to trigger automations based on different parameters, works great with ST!
ZOOZ Z-Wave Plus 4-in-1 Sensor ZSE40 VER. 2.0 (Motion/Light/Temperature/Humidity) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AKSO80O/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_88Y6WPVSKS7PA71RQTW6
I use this UPS for my Smartthings V3 hub I bought in 2018. It works very well.
I also use a UPS for my wifi hub and my internet carrier modem. When the power goes out I have access to internet, wifi, and smartthings hub.
I would move to the Aeotec smartthings hub which is the V3 one. I didn't think the V1 hub receives software updates anymore.
I'm not familiar with webCoRE, but from what I've heard, it can be very useful with more involved setups, such as triggering something only if multiple conditions are net. One app you may like is the "If this, then that" app, also known as IFTTT. It allows for simpler configuration using the if this then that method. For your situation, you would put if smoke alarm triggered, then turn off x switch. However, I usually like to find SmartApps for SmartThings first, as you can also write your own or find many custom ones available online.
However, IFTTT apps do not run offline on the hub, if the internet is unavailable. I do not know if you are using the Hub V2, but if you are and have a power outage (and no internet), using native SmartThings apps usually still function, and you could make a battery powered siren to alert you, for example.
I currently have webcore switch to night mode when the bedroom window is opened after 9pm. Otherwise, I can say "hey google, goodnight" and it will switch the mode.
Night mode itself will turn on the window fan if the window is open otherwise the other fan, turns of light motion sensors, turns off all lights, turns down the ecobee.
Soon, I hope to buy the Nokia Sleep to trigger night mode. They already have an IFTTT channel. Lets just hope its accurate in detecting when someone is in bed